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thanks
stg
http://www.jdpower.com/auto/search/winners.asp?StudyID=625&CatID=1
kominsky: It sounds like the floaty feeling is due to tire pressure. You might have it too high (fron anyway). I'd try dropping the fronts by 2 psi before trying higher pressure.
radar detector: If I get one, I'll speed more, so I won't get one. I don't speed in residental areas, and on the HWY, I'm not too obvious about speeding. Good common sense will usually see one through.
South Africa: There doesn't seem to be any quality issue with SA builds (at least not on this board). I guess the only thing is, it would be nice to get a German car built in Germany. Well, one way to insure you get a German built BMW is to get a M car or a Z8.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Two weeks ago I took delivery of a 325i, and I left spots all over it trying to wash it shortly thereafter. Now, the All-In-One is here, but it's such a small bottle...
Just because I admire another car--can't think of another one just now ;-)--doesn't mean you are jumping ship!
Off topic, I feel like a dinosaur because my last camera purchase was an SLR, with an upgraded lens no less. Sometime, when I'm feeling less "soverypoornow", I'll have to check it out, esp. that one discussed here.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The car drives and handles beautifully! I've read with great interest the discussions of steering weight differences across model years and whether or not the 3er needs SP. I like the steering weight of this model--surely wouldn't want it any lighter, can't see the benefit of its being heavier. As for SP, I decided to do without and see it as a mixed bag: the regular suspension conveys plenty of road feel for this 50-year-old body, but I do notice that the car could be tighter in curves and corners. So I would agree with SP advocates that it's the thing to have for turning at speed. I don't do that very often, so think I can do without.
I bought the car over the internet from Franco Karzag at Cutter, and would heartily recommend him and the dealership to others. Very straightforward, knowledgeable, and professional in all ways, so it was very easy for this Arizonan to buy in CA and drive home. Santa Barbara and its environs offer nice roads for test drives, too.
Finally, about shifting the 5sp: I have done so by ear for about 30 years, but am wondering at what RPMs/speed others move through the gears. During break-in I have been generally careful about keeping RPM below 4500 (meaning I probably nicked that level 2 or 3 times and never hit 5 grand). I also noticed that 1st gear winds out quickly, but 2nd and 3rd will go on and on. In everyday driving, when not trying to get up to speed in any particular hurry, where do most folks move into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th?
Best wishes,
Ed
PS I might surpass 1pierce's BMW longing: I bummed a ride home from college (Colgate) in a BMW (2002??) that belonged to a rich kid from West Hartford. I had never heard of the make--in our world the hot cars were big-iron Dodges (426 hemis?) and the occasional little sports cars (Triumphs and such). But I immediately noticed that this car was very well put together: the ways the doors closed, the dials worked, the car accelerated and turned. Thirty-two years later I own one.
South Africa - I believe South Africa is final assembly only(?). Parts assembled are the same as those assembled in Germany. There is no reason to fear SA assembly, whatsoever(1 word?). I would hazard to guess that most 325is(plural) imported in the U.S. are now assembled in South Africa. Quite frankly, I might have more concerns about the X5 and Z3 assembled in the U.S.
Coolest Things About My 325i (non-technical, i.e., non-performance related)
- Outside door handles. Are these the greatest looking outside door handles ever made, or what?
- "Ambient" lighting of the console
- Interior "theater" lighting that fades in and out
- Lighting of steering wheel controls for radio and cruise control
- Dash LED gear indicator, when in Step manual mode (yes, I have the Step)
- Clown's nose (I know this will be controversial)
- Full size spare tire with spare (matching) alloy wheel
- Tool kit
- Rechargeable flashlight
- Analog instantanious MPG gauge (although totally useless)
Bob
chris - I have felt an improvement from the 31psi at which they were delivered to the 33psi that I currently have them at. My thinking was that the higher pressure helped, but maybe it was that they were breaking in properly at the same time. I'll try lowering them to see what happens. Thanks.
The difference in price has to do with standard equipment. In addition to the 3-sedan, the base coupe has: sport suspension (w/all season tires), sport steering wheel, folding rear seats, and the armrest/console. It also has different headlights/front end, tail lights, and hood. Actually, BMW says that every exterior body piece is different except the door handles. The coupe rides about 1/2" lower. Finally, the coupe is bigger on the outside in every dimension except height, but noticeably smaller on the inside (a new definition for "reverse engineering"?).
Is all that worth an additional $2,000? I think so, I just have too many kids for a coupe. You be the judge for yourself.
Just like these guys that feel too disconnected w/out manual transmission,...I feel totally disconnected from photography with a digital camera. The idea that I never have to change film, and can correct nearly any mistakes through digital manipulation takes alot of the fun out of it for me.
I've had my 325 for about a year and after break-in, normally shift out of 1st in a range between mid 3s to 4,500 rpm because I found the shifts from 1st to 2nd are smoother up there than below 3500 rpm. Besides, shifts from that engine speed keep you close to the lower end of the torque band (~3000 rpm) of the 325i when you get into second. About the same range for other gears depending on how I feel, climbing or descending and traffic conditions. In snow, I'll shift below 3500 just to stay out of the torque band.
As a guideline after break in when you accelerate hard, it is usually time to shift when you have cleared traffic and get a chance to glance down to the tach. Your engine may sound like its over-reving but I usually catch the tach at 5500 to 6000 and can decide if I want to go farther without too much "head-down" time. Never had the rev limiter kick in. Getting out of first quickly is a good thing since your real acceleration advantage is in 2nd and 3rd.
I owned a MY 1972 BMW 2002 for about 10 years. It was a true, light-weight, classic (but more refined) sports car in sedan form with a silky-smooth 4 cylinder that used to growl like current 325s above 4000 rpm. Brakes were not much good (at least on my car) but not much could upset the suspension and once you settled the (stock) suspension, it would turn as if on rails. The current 325i is much more refined and I greatly prefer its power, handling and brakes over the 2002.
Alan
Deep down, I know the SA quality would be fine, but I didn't buy this car for it to be put together by people who's primary language is English. (before I open a caldron, that was a joke)
If you feel like popping for the next camera up in the line, the S602 can be had for about $700, and not only does it have the best of the 4900 and 2800 rolled into one camera, it also is a 3.3 MP camera which can take substantially higher quality pictures than the 2800.
Let us know what you do.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The new pictures are in the "530i Delivered" album, and the three Hi-Res shots start with 16x12 in their names (as in "16x12AudioClimate"). Please keep in mind, if you wish to see the pictures at their full resolution, you need to click on the "ThumbNail" shot to enhance it to a "ScreenSize" shot, you then need to click on that shot again to take you to full resolution.
Best Regards,
Shipo
In the same manner, you need to learn how to effectively use a digital camera but once you do, I believe you will not go back to film (unless you develop and print your own). Besides being fully automatic, the Olympus has all controls available for manual set (focus, exposure and speed) plus the ability to shoot a ton of pictures at no cost to you. The Olympus has an offset, optical view finder but once you learn its frame offset, you can frame your shots perfectly at any zoom level (the optical viewfinder adjusts it frame size to the zoom level).
I'm sure you have been uncertain about exposure over water or hazy conditions. Just set the digital camera to automatically take three exposures at +/- 0.3, +/-0.7 or +/-1.0 EV and you can choose the best exposure later. Taking 360 degree Virtual Reality or 2D panoramas with only 10% overlap is amazing and most digital cameras have a 15 second movie capability.
In addition, I've had real good luck with post processing using gamma compensation and red-eye removal. Pictures taken inside with windows as a background have been adjusted so you can see people and objects just below the window.
With your interest in photography, I would recommend you borrow a good digital camera from a friend. You'll never go back -- I've tried, with the investment I have in 35mm gear, but I can no longer tolerate the picture to picture density variation and generally poor print quality these days.
Alan
If so, please send an e-mail containing your contact information and vehicle description to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, June 12.
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Digit Value Meaning
Position 1,2,3: Manufacturer
WBA BMW AG
Position 4,5,6: Model
AM3 323i
AM5 328i
BM3 323Ci
BM5 328Ci
AV5 330i
BS5 330Cic
BN5 330Ci
BS3 325Cic
BN3 325Ci
AV3 325i
AN3 325i SA built
AW3 325iT
Position 7: Country
3 United States model
Position 8: Restraint System
3 or 4 Dual, de-powered airbags
Position 9: Check digit
Position 10: Model year
X 1999
Y 2000
1 2001
2 2002
Position 11: Assembly plant
F Munich
K Munich
C Dingolfing
F Dingolfing
E Regensberg
J Regensberg
N South Africa (currently 325i's only)
Position 12-17: Serial number
6 digit serial number
As for location, Yes, the vin will tell you which plant even. Check e46fanatics.com for a breakdown of the VIN. Look in their FAQ. Do a search on the FAQ page for "17 digits" and it should jump you right to it. OK somebody beat me to it. Problem is, no 325xi is listed for the model. heheh My car doesn't exist I guess. Also it has my plant listed as P, which again, isn't listed.
-Paul
In the short term, I'll probably pop for a sub-$1,000 digital camera with a zoom lens, for use in web photography. That said, I also need to upgrade my home computer, because the hard drive and processor are too slow and small to manipulate digital photos (so I'm told, I have a 1997 vintage Pentium II 200, with 5.6 MB HD).
Come to think of it, I love photography almost as much as cars. Almost. I think of BMW as the Nikon of cars (occasionally missing a feature, but nobody beats the performance). Audi is the Canon of cars (always the latest and greatest technology, but doesn't have the Nikon feel). And MB, well I guess they're Minolta (superb system, built like a tank, but over priced and inconvenient to use). You other photo enthusiasts know what I mean.
Those interior shots are so close up (a/c and radio) that you can see the dust on the dash. Is the resolution and clarity THAT good? Woah!
-Paul
I really wanted a 3 MP camera or better, however, now that I have this thing, I am finding that I am hard pressed to figure out what else I would do with the nicer camera that I cannot do with this one.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Your computer seems just fine if it has a USB interface. I have about the same capability, a 17inch monitor, HP 970C printer and I don't wait very long for anything but prints.
I don't like large prints (8x10s) and find 5x7s and smaller pictures on glossy photo paper to be very acceptable compared to commercial prints - especially since I tend to print only selected shots after slight adjusts in brightness and contrast.
I do have a CD-R/RW burner for archiving digital pictures. I typically group them in folders by subject or occassion, create a (couple of) thumbnail sheets with filenames (one per folder) and then archive this organization (off the HD) to CD-R when I have enough pictures to fill a CD. Beats the box of prints that have never found their way into a photo album.
Alan
Digits 1-3 are manufacturer's code (e.g., WBA=BMW AG; 4US=Spartanburg, SC, USA; WBS=Motorsports; and NCO=BMW SA, with 4US and NCO not used after MY 1999.)
Digits 4-7 are the model code.
Digit 8 is the restraint system identifier.
Digit 9 is a check digit
Digit 10 is the model year identifier.
Digit 11 is the plant code (e.g., L=Spartansburg, A=Munich, B=Dingolfing, D=Dingolfing, E=Regensburg, and N=South Africa).
Digits 12-17 are the sequential production number.
Gives some history of BMW in SA. How they have fully owned or controlled their subsidiary since the apartheid days. BMW used to assemble full line of BMWs in SA but now only make 3 Series. Were slated to build 49,000 3 Series in 2001, a record. BMW has spent a lot of money upgrading the plant.
Article discusses that SA build quality is up to world standards, though the cars cost a bit more to produce and take longer to build (when measured in man-hours per car).
In 1995 SA government initiated a subsidy program for manufacturers, to encourage exports (the Motor Industry Development Program). Program will run thru at least 2007 and possible 2012. Each manufacturer trying to get their costs and build times down to world level before the program expires.
NOTE: According to Jonathan Cohen's book, BMW M-Series and Performance Specials book, 1996, a most unique and famous BMW SA cars was their 1980s E23 platform 745i. Instead of using the 3.2L and 3.5L turbocharged I-6 engines as the made-in-Germany 745i, BMW SA's 745i used the Motorsport 24-valve 3.5L I-6 from the M635CSi and M6. Too bad BMW doesn't make an M7 today!
I am now mentally dividing my calendar next week into two distinct segments -- driving BMW and not driving BMW.
Think our cars made friends?
In Tucson max heat rejection could be important -although maybe it's like sunscreen - 15 SPF is fine but maybe 45 SPF makes you feel like you're getting the most....is it just a way for them to make more money or where it gets to be HOT in the summer maybe max is best? As always, thanks
Well, there is something about a Red Ferrari, a Green British car and a Silver German car, that a car enthusiast can't avoid (car enthusiast: anybody who likes cars enough to read about them while sitting in the toilet, day after day;)
Silver is also practical, as it doesn't look dirty as quickly as darker colors.
However, that’s just me. You should customized your car the way you want and select the colors you like (and I applaud that, so not all the cars look the same!)
As a kid, I always associated silver with German sport cars (Porsche, MB, Audi and BMW), so now that I can afford one, I knew it would have to be silver. And every time I glance at my Silver 330ci, I just can't avoid but to think about how slick, racy, shiny, and clean it looks. Perhaps my next one will be a different color, but the first one, had to be silver.
The dealers here in Houston can do a normal tint job, but they have this "new" tint that rejects heat very well. The demonstration is very impressive as you stick your had under a hot lamp with normal tint and then with the super tint. Your eyes get real BIG then you ask how much it costs and your mouth DROPS --$895--it makes you want to laugh and they know it too as they stand there quietly waiting for you to respond--I think they are a little embarassed/ashamed.
The same with wheel size. A couple of years ago 16" wheels were the biggest standard wheel. Now 17's are not considered large. I saw an E46 with 20" rear wheels and 19's on the front.
Obviously, this cannot continue indefinately. What happens to the first manufacturer that comes out with a new model that is reduced in size or HP? Will it go to Oldsmobile heaven? Anyone see the Lingenfelder(sp?) Corvette that makes something like 800 HP? 0-60 in under TWO seconds!
Dale: i didnt realize the 5er seats also have the adjustable thigh support , it worth gold on a long trip .
330ci: regarding colors i could not have said it better myself, no way could i pass on a Silver German car
DL
Both the 990 & 995 give you full control of aperture and shutter speed (check out my bike race photos link below). You may think you want a point & shoot, but it's so much easier/cheaper to experiment with a digital camera that it will want the control. For the first time in my life, I'm actually interested in photography.
Here is what I've learned:
-A swivel lens/body (Nikon 990) or swivel LCD is very handy as in shooting something down low, up high, etc.
-Companies that make good film cameras make good digital cameras; they all use similar ccd's so it comes down to the optics, etc.
-Nikon makes the best macro (close up) cameras. If you think this isn't an issue, take your camera into the back yard some time, you'll have a blast shooting wildlife on the small scale.
-Plan on spending more than the price of the camera; 32 or 64 Mb card, nickel metal hydride rechargeable batteries, better printer, software, etc.
-Epson makes the best picture printers, but my HP does pretty well.
-Go to a camera store instead of Best Buy, it's amazing how much more they know about cameras.
-I am totally perplexed as to why people buy a camera with a floppy drive. They are bigger, heavier, more expensive and they take lower quality (higher compression) pictures to fit on the 20 year old medium.
-3 mega pixels allow to crop a wide shot into a tighter shot and still get a good print.
-I highly recommend the Nikon. I'd probably buy the same camera today if mine broke even though it's two year old technology.
Some of my photos including my 325i (reduced for the web): http://homepage.mac.com/mcmurman
-murray