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Comments
How much did it improve the shifting? Mine is noticably notchy after having done the Redline fluid in my Wrangler.
-Paul
It made a night and day difference in my car and the 2 or 3 other E46 cars that we did for CCA friends. Smooth as butter ;o)
potenza re950
potenza pole position
bmw dealer wants continentals
thanks
WOO HOO!
-Paul
Thanks,
Mike
http://www.blue-guy.com/images/BimmerInvoice1.png
http://www.blue-guy.com/images/Bimmerinvoice2.png
Hard to beat the ED invoice price +1000.
Doesn't matter, even if I max out a 330i with the stuff I want but don't need (park distance and leather come to mind) on top of the mandatory metallic paint and sp package, I'm still seeing 36k for ED with dealer profit of 1k. That's a ludicrous deal, IMHO. 15% off the msrp, isn't too shabby.
I noticed that the difference between the 325 and 330 has shrunk when you adjust for the options (the standard xenons, upgraded stereo, and memory power seats in the 330i cost $3,000 to get individually). So it seems that if you do want those options, the difference between the 325 and the 330 will be only 3 grand (closer to $2,500 for ED) for which you get a much better tuned engine, bigger brakes, etc... Brilliant marketing and flexible pricing - I think they are learning from the E46 models where the price premium between the 325 and 330 was just too high. The E90 is completely off my radar screen in terms of shopping (I am perfectly happy with my E46 325i) so I don't know what deals people are getting but I'd be amazed if you could get anything much below MSRP until after the initial allocations in the fall. If you are leasing and doing an ED, sure - the 330 is even more attractive comparatively.
I'm not needing a new car until may of 06, so I expect ED will probably be my only option. I'm kinda excited at the prospect of getting a car with more features for 4k less than I paid originally.
Now hopefully the car is fun to drive. Otherwise I hear the siren song of Miata.
What happens to resale value on the 325i once/if BMW only offers the 330i and maybe a 335i in the future? Did the 323i take a hit?
How about easy to read pdfs then?
2005 Cadillac Escalade MSRP $57,000.00 Sales price $40,300.00.
Not just 1, they have about 50 to unload.
DL
DL
It can't all be measured in dollars though. for instance, back in 2001 I had a 91 nissan stanza - but it was getting old. about once every 5-6 months something would fail. something small, something large but always that'd cost me money and time. so maybe i was spending 2k a year on upkeep.
i leased a car, wrote off the lease and that car had two years free service. I was spending about 2k a year on the lease after tax deductions. same money spent but the car was decidely safer, faster and more fun. Oh but I sold the stanza for 2k, so in reality I had one year for free.
It can be cheaper. but more importantly it can alleviate headaches and save time. my time and energy is worth more to me than having to deal with a dodgy car that's no longer fun.
Thanks,
Mike
In an average case scenario, your costs will be directly proportional to the cost of the asset that you employ (own, lease, whatever). A $2,000 asset will on average cost significantly less to use than a $40,000 asset. You can argue that your time is way too expensive and important and a $40,000 car gives you an extra layer of insurance against downtime. But that insurance is not free. You can also argue that you are having a lot more fun driving the ZHP per dollar spent. I'll believe that!! But you can hardly convince anyone here that a $40,000 asset is almost as cheap to own/lease as a used Nissan valued at $2,000. Didn't you drop over a grand on new tires alone for the ZHP 10,000 miles into the lease?!
I never said it was my zhp. And I don't think it's an extreme example. 2k a year in upkeep on a car over 7 years old with over 125k miles seems reasonable.
I believe the lease alone is at least $500-600/mo without a security deposit (I'd love to know how you write off 4 grand on a 6+ grand lease every year - you must have friends at the IRS).
When i did write my cars off for business, i wrote off everything, gas, tires, etc.
Not to mention that you may not even have gap insurance...
BMWFS comes with gap.
Never said it was the bmw, it was a jetta turbo. My ZHP is simply leased, no tricks, nothing shady for the gov't.
As for older cars being expensive to run, the maintenance and repair costs for my "ancient" fleet average as follows:
1995 Club Sport 95000 miles: $35 per month(including three sets of tires)
1997 528iA 115000 miles: $85 per month(including one set of tires)
1999 Wrangler Sahara 85000 miles: $45 per month(no tires yet)
Wonder what I could lease for $165 a month?
My concern is over the cost of the upkeep. Would the 325 be more reliable because of the lack of features? How reliable are these cars based on the year and the model? I plan on keeping which ever one I decide on for at least 5 years. What do you think? Also, what do you think about the prices? I may be able to haggle both down another grand or so. Thanks for your help!
2) The 330i will use more gas around town, but is probably identical on the highway.. Not enough of a difference to matter.
3) The difference between asking prices seems about right.. I'd say it should be closer, but it sounds like the 330 has a nicer options package.. If the 325i doesn't have the premium package (no power seats?), then I'd definitely get the 330i.
Drive a hard bargain... You might be able to get a couple thou off.. If you are keeping the car for five years, definitely get the one you want.
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I'd get the 330i just for the sport package (40HP won't hurt, either).
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I get a kick out of blowing more powerful cars at the track too. The first time I got signed off to solo at WGI, I caught up with a slightly modified E36 M3 driven by a driver that had already been signed off. I was about 200 ft behind entering Turn 2 (the esses) and when we tracked out for the back straight, I was getting close to his tail and carrying a bit more speed. My 325i is really fast at 6K RPMs in 4-th gear!! He waived me through and a couple of laps later my instructor said "I think I'll have to sign you off." I could barely contain my excitement but preferred to just shut up so I don't mess up anything...
It will be really interesting to see how well we do at One Lap in a month. There are 4 Subaru STi (one of them pumping 500+ HP), a Dodge Magnum, an Infiniti G35, a 328i and a couple of souped up M-Bs in my Mid-Priced sedan class. Most are driven by Lap Dogs...
BTW, have you ever used the Pastelub 2400 product from gwrauto.com? Called them today, they sold me that and a ceramic compound for the caliper guiding pins (they might both be overkill for my application) but also wanted to sell me a $50 kit that allows you to measure RA (a roughness index used for rotors) which allows you to determine if the rotors are smooth enough (but not too smooth) and supposedly helps with the bed-in process. I may give it a try - I asked them for instructions for now. They really seem to know what they are talking about. Do you wash your rotors with water and soap? Burnish them (cross-hatch, etc.) while they are rotating?
I know this is not an apple to apple comparison, but am finding forum input very helpful. thanks
regards,
kyfdx
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I don't. Will let you know if I find out.
I think I am also skipping it.. the only reason I considered it, is that I already had the day scheduled off from work..
On another note, the Susan G. Komen Foundation event is in October... I think I'll sign up for that... I've heard you get to drive multiple cars..
regards,
kyfdx
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He then instructed me to ALWAYS print out directions from both services.
Best Regards,
Shipo's computer (he is having a nap right about now)
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Best Regards,
Shipo
P.S.
Thanks to my laptop for standing in for me, driving an automatic transmissioned minivan really made me sleepy. ;-)