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Comments
It would be nice to have the power of the '06 but the looks aren't doing it for me just yet. Maybe it will grow on me.
The E46 is a classic design that looks great and continues to garner compliments.
http://www.absolutepuppies.com/
Awesome job Brave! ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Nice job by the way. I followed your journal and it sounds like a lot of fun if not a lot of sleep!
I've been reading this forum over the years researching and dreaming of getting my first BMW. My turn has come! I recently purchased a 01 330i with PP, SP. Silver with 'M' wheels. :P
I have a quick question about my sunroof:
When I push the roof button to open the roof completely (double de-press, not press and hold), then press the button to close the roof completely (again, double de-press, not press and hold), about 2 inches before the roof seals the roof will 'bounce back' and reopen half way. If I press and hold the button to close the roof, the roof will shut completely.
The dealer replaced the motor and then told me the cassette for the roof needed to be replaced and was not covered by the CPO program; hence the cost would be somewhere in the $1400.00 range...Yikes!!!
The roof does not leak and does close completely, but was curious if anyone had heard of this before? Is it a program issue that I might be able to 'wipe the memory' or 'restore the factory default'?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks ya'll!!
Christo
Thanks again for your response AW. really appreciate it.
Since you can hold the button continuously (this function will override the pinch sensor) that allows you to completely close the sunroof.
I would take a look at the track that the sunroof rides in and you may be able to spot the reason why the sunroof won't close with the one touch feature.
My guess is that there may be a small rock in the track or the metal is bent up a little bit. Take a look at the track at the point the sunroof stops and retracts and see if you can find the problem.
Gotta agree.
$26,000 ED invoice for a 6-speed E90 is a no-brainer. Does anyone really NEED xenons, leather, logic-7, etc?
The only thing better would be a $23,000 ED invoice 2-series coupe. Same power, same options, less weight = more go. My fingers are crossed!
http://www.gvc-bmwcca.org/Movies/DrivingSkool.mpe
Well, again I did it myself. I had the car pulled out into the driveway so I could get the mower out to do the grass. Cutting alongside the car, the mower made a sudden lurch as I was turning it and I could actually feel the handle scrape against the car as it swung around
It's a deep scratch through the clear and color coats, but the good news is that it is confined to the right rear door handle. If I decide it's worth fixing, it should be fairly cheap since they can just mask off the handle and paint it instead of having to paint an entire body panel. Of course, since it's on the right side of the car and I rarely see that side, I might just let it go.
I could never do that. I'm psychotic about scratches on my e46. I saw a swirly scratch on my hood from across a parking lot one night - the first time the car had been driven in weeks - and about had a nervous breakdown. Someone visiting my home while i was away on business (parents, housesitter, family electrician) obviously placed something on my hood that moved a few inches. The scratch is only visible from certain angles and some claim they can't see it. Whatever...it's there and it makes me feel queasy as I look for it now.
Is this a warped rotor or are there other things that would cause this? How would the rotor get warped? I’ve changed from winter to summer tires, but I always use a torque wrench.
Finally, is this a safety issue? Is it something I should have taken care of soon or can I put it off for awhile?
Thanks
-murray
It is a safety issue if it is too severe.
As for what caused it. Speculation here; I've noticed that on both of my BMWs, as the pads age, I've had a single set of pads on both cars that wore in such a way that the caliper ended up slightly canted or tilted when viewed from the plane of the rotor. In the case of my 328i, the metal backing was actually starting to grind on the rotor (which caused a hot/hard spot severe enough to cause me to do a brake job), however, due to the tilt, the wear sensor hadn't yet been engaged.
Best Regards,
Shipo
One other question, should this be covered under warranty? I’ve had the car for 3 years and 3 months.
Thanks
-murray
Best Regards,
Shipo
I never had warped rotors in my life until i got the Grand Cheerokee. The front warps about every 10k miles. Seems like the rear brakes are applied with 5 percent pressure....
As for the Grand, you need the new design calipers that don't build up heat as much. Even with the older calipers, I got 63,000 out of my factory pads/rotors on my Grand.
"Oh, you wanted me to slow down?" hehe
-Paul
1. Isolate the issue to front and/or rears. Get the car up to 40-50mph and VERY lightly apply the e-brake. If there's no shimmy, it's definitely the fronts (very likely!)
2. Examine the surface of the rotors closely through the wheel spokes. Take the wheel off preferably and run your fingers lightly over the rotors to see if you feel any roughness in the rotors. Do you see any grooves? Send me a picture if you can. If the rotors are good, then it's the pads (possible crumbling). Both pads and rotors are covered and the dealer will replace them at no cost to you.
In my experience, it's most likely the rotors (more precisely, uneven pad deposit over the rotors). Re-bedding the pads to the rotors usually takes care of the issue and so does more aggressive braking over a few days but preferably, do a standard bed-in: warm up the brakes, then do 5-7 aggressive slowdowns (not stops!) from 50 to 10 mph, then drive around for 10 min with minimal braking to cool the brakes. 90% of the time, this will cure the shimmy for cars that have not seen track use.
As I'm on my 3rd set of tires in under 30k miles. I drive my car but like every car I've ever owned, I get it washed constantly, waxed every few months and do everything in my power to keep the car from getting a scratch.
They were recommended at my tire shop and Tire Rack seemed to have reasonable reviews for $103 tires.
-murray
According to ITV, http://www.itv-f1.com/News_Article.aspx?PO_ID=33194
"The seven Michelin teams had offered to accept penalties if the track was altered to alleviate their tyre concerns.
They would have been willing to race without being eligible for points, or for the Bridgestone cars to be put to the front of the grid."
So why not compromise and save the race by adding a chicane?! Ferrari would still get their 1-2, the fans would be happy to watch a full field, and everyone would go home happy. Instead, we get this charade... This lack of flexibility on Bernie's part is unfathomable and will only increase the likelihood of breakaway series in a few years. FIA screwed up on several counts: lack of willingness/ability to perform as a mediator, idiotic "one set of tires per weekend" rule, and stupid testing policies that limit teams and manufacturers.
Michelin can only be partially blamed in this case. They had no data points from the new track surface at Indianapolis while Bridgestone did via its Firestone subsidiary in the IRL series. Because of lack of sufficient data, no Michelin tire would have been safe enough in a race of that speed and length. A chicane would have been the only graceful way out. Bernie and FIA should be ashamed of themselves. I doubt I'll ever lose interest in F1 (or GPWS or whatever they end up calling the new series) but I've lost respect for F1's organizers.