BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

sunilb

Hey brave-- just ordered the mityvac online (amazon now carries them)... but tonight when I checked, the website for bmw325i.net was down (it worked a few days ago)... do you have another one?

brave1heart

What are you looking to do - just an oil change using the extractor??

sunilb

as much as I can, actually... oil change w/ extractor, microfilter (done that before), air filter (I've heard the clips can be tricky), tranny and diff fluid. I went through the site last week and it seemed quite good (pictures definitely help), and just thought I would print the info off next week when I get started on this.

I've called around and the average going price is ~ $550 for Inspection II (and these are at independent shops, though they include the tranny/diff fluid and fuel filter change), so my motivation is high.

Thanks.

brave1heart

I don't know of another site that has the tranny and diff instructions. Hopefully bmw325i.net will come back but if it doesn't, I can walk you through the steps. Tougher to do without seeing the pics, though...

Do you have all the tools already?

fomentar

I'm not sure how or why this coincidence occurred, but my windshield is sporting a crack on the driver's side starting at the base and working it's way up about 8 inches...I just happened to be heading in for some service at my dealer...go figure.

In any case, I would prefer BMW glass and my insurance agent is telling me my policy will cover replacement at NAGS pricing, which probably won't cover the cost of BMW glass. Should I use aftermarket glass?

Any thoughts or experience with windshield replacement would be appreciated.

kyfdx

Do you have the rain sensor? If so, they'll have to use BMW glass.. Also, BMW uses a special urethane for sealing, which they'll have to use either way.. I think the urethane alone is $90..

And, for reference.... the cost for my independent glass installer was right around $250 (or a little less..foggy memory) for genuine BMW glass.. I think the total bill was under $500.

regards,
kyfdx

sunilb

I have a socket wrench set, but need to pick up the 36mm socket from Sears this week (that's the only special tool I remember from the site)... I'll wait a few days and hopefully the site will come back online.

Otherwise, I may take you up on your offer.

kominsky

If you're doing the transmission and diff fluids, you will need a hex-head socket for the fill/drain bolts. Double check me on this, but I think it's a 14mm. It's hard to find one. Snap-on sells them, probably BMW too. I was lucky to find out my daughter's best friend's dad has the most awesome tool collection I've ever seen for a non-professional mechanic and he lent me one.

sunilb

Cool... thanks (looks like I'll have to pick up some more stuff).

Hey good news: looks like that site is back up and running-- I'll print off the pics and instructions tonight for my "project" in the next week or two!

brave1heart

kominsky is correct. Check the instructions on the site for the tools needed. I got my hex head socket from http://www.toolwarehouse.com/ You will also need a breaker bar - the tranny bolt took a lot of effort to get to move.

motorcity3

Hello everyone.

Does anybody have any opinions on what would be a good tire selection for my 2001 325i? Should I stick to the Continental Touring tires I have on my car now or should I go with something different? The bottom line is that I am looking for something good and cheaper if possible. Also, is 25K miles lifetime too low for these tires. On average I need new tires every 25K miles. That seems low to me. I might not drive like a grandma, but I don't drive very aggresive either. Any ideas?

Thanks

blueguydotcom

So I took my 330i in for the 4th time for the same problem - engine stutter at 4k rpm. I drove around town with the dealer's lead tech and he felt it. Then he responded with something that at least made me feel a wee bit better: "We know about this issue. No fix currently exists. You have two options. We can disconnect your disa valve and then your car will only have one stage to the runner (and thus no top end - where I live in the rpm range) or you can wait until BMW finds a way to fix this issue with software."

I like that answer more than continually swapping out parts/software only to get the same results.

I opted for suck it up and keep driving the car. Maybe they'll fix the issue by May of 06. Maybe not. Either way, at least I have the second stage for the valves.

sunilb

Kumho Ecsta's might be worth looking at.

sunilb

Okay, having given it a bit more thought, I might get the tranny and diff fluids (along with a fuel filter) done at an independent shop. The fluids don't look too bad, but I'd have to invest in a few more tools as well as some ramps and jacks which may not be worth it since these are such infrequent maintenance items (ie, every 60K miles).

Still waiting for the mityvac to arrive.

325irav4

I also have a 2001 325i sedan (non-sport). You did better than me; I only got about 22k. I was very disappointed in the Contis. After studying the TireRack stats I chose the Bridgestone Turanza LS-H and love everything about them (don't know about snow - I switch to Michelin Artic Alpins in the winter and they are terrific!). Check out the Turanza on tirerack.com - the scores are impressive. However it's hard to beat the Conti price but from the data I would expect much better mileage from the Turanzas. Note: above comments for non-sport 16 inch tires.

blueguydotcom

Switched to kumhos after devouring two sets up Bridgestones in 28k miles. First were Potenza RE40s. Second set were SA-03s. RE40s handled better and were far quieter than the S-03s. Third set are Kumhos. Kumhos are decent, appear to wear far better but they lack the grip of the RE40s. Of course they cost half as much.

motorcity3

Thanks for all the replies everyone. Now, one more question. I am sure that most everyone will agree that geting tires at the dealship is not the way to go. So, how do you guys do it, if not at the dealship? Do you go to a tire place (Discount Tire, etc.) or do you order on-line (Tirerack.com)? If you buy your own tires, then do you go to a local auto place (like Sears Auto) and have them installed?

Thanks again.

gordonwd

If you go with Tirerack, which I would personally recommend, they will provide you with a list of local installers that are used to working with them. Where this came in handy was that I was able to have Tirerack ship my tires right to the installer's shop, and then I just drove down and had them do the swap. Much less of a pain than having to stuff them into your car! The installer that I used was not a tire shop, but rather a general shop that specializes in German cars.

Other than that, I'm not sure that most tire specialty shops will give you very good service on mounting new tires that you did not buy from them.

brave1heart

My Craftsman floor jack cost a whopping $25 with jack stands to boot. My Rhino ramps cost about the same. The hex head bolts for the diff and tranny fluid were maybe $15 shipped... The breaker bar was $3 from Home Depot's plumbing section. I would think you'd have other use for the floor jack, stands, and ramps?

div2

Tools; You can never have too many
BTW, been meaning to tell you-nice Roundel article. Ready for the Alcan?

kyfdx

Ditto.. nice article..

Of course, I had read about it already on the website....

mschukar

I bought these http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Fuzion&tireModel=ZRi&partnum=245WR7ZRI&ve- hicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&place=0

After a month or two, they are definitely better than the OEM Contis with a reasonable price. No complaints here.

I use a local, privately owned tire shop with great prices. Again, no complaints.

-murray

grantchstr

As I have posted before this fall I will replace my OEM tires (only 3000 miles on em right now) for the ONLY tire that is a Four Season tire AND has a Snow tire rating - the NOKIAN WR. These are great. Just get em as cheap as you can and have em mounted - but make sure the outfit has a torque wrench!

brave1heart

div2/kyfdx - thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the article. I wrote it all in one breath. I'd love to do One Lap every year if I had the time and money! I am definitely going back, probably in 2007 and likely with the same 325i but hopefully with a better suspension.

Yeah, the Alcan would be an awesome event to do. I have a lot of experience driving in snow, so keep me in mind if you do get that 530xi ;o)

truckee

I'm looking to purchase a used 2000 +/- model year (E46) 323 BMW and it seems that a lot of the vehicles I'm seeing are lease returns. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about this class of used cars ?

erickpl

For those of us who don't get Roundel, is there an online copy of the article? As much as my wife and I love our 2002, when it is time for a new vehicle, it may not be a BMW, unless the 3 series convertible has a retractable hard top like the SLK350.

My wife has her new ride, and the next upgrade will be mine and I want sporty convertible, and REALLY hope the new 3 series convertible will fit the bill. Other competition is the Audi TT (if it has a hard top) and the SLK's. I already have one soft top (Jeep), but want better security and quiet with a hard top.

Does anybody know if the new convertible will be hard or soft top? I've seen a few spy shots of the coupe, but no word (other than a quick mention in the 5 Series board) about the convertible.

-Paul

kyfdx

The last year for the 323i was 2000... If it is a lease return, that was one long lease....

BMW lease returns are generally good bets, as all of the service was included in the price.. However, you should probably be looking for an '02 325i, if you want a car just coming off lease...

regards,
kyfdx

motorcity3

Hello everyone. I am wondering if anybody has ever noticed a sort of revving/howling/humming sound coming from the engine when you are at low crusing speeds (40-50mph) and you have the foot of the gas. That's when I hear it. It goes away when i come to a standstill and I don't really hear it when I am stepping on the gas because then I get the BMW growl, which I love. To be honest, I like those BMW engine sounds, but this sound is different from before. Maybe I just never noticed before and I am being anal, but I was wonderingif anybosy has ever noticed this on a 2001 325i. I have about 48K miles on the car.

sunilb

Not sure if I'd have frequent use for the jack/stands/ramps, which (combined with apartment-living) has given me pause in terms of storing all of this. Good to know the cost is low, though.

The frequency of the oil changes makes the mityvac worth it (should be arriving today, so I'll report back over the weekend about my experience).

div2

If you've been a CCA member for at least one year you can get a $500-$1000 rebate-direct from BMW NA-on just about any new or CPO BMW you purchase. Most dealers give a CCA discount on parts/labor as well(my local dealer gives 20% off). C'mon-pony up the $40. As for convertibles, you might want to take a look at a CPO 645 in a couple of years. The fabric top is just as quiet as the tin top.

nyccarguy

How many miles you have on the 'ol 325xi? You should definitely become a CCA member. I own a Honda and have been a member for 2 years. Reading ROUNDEL every month is worth the $40 a year by itself. It is an extremely well written magazine. A few of our more knowledgeable posters have actually written some articles (very good articles I might add). The parts discount and rebate are just gravy on the top.

truckee

Thanks, kyfdx, for the reply and advice about the lease returns. I'm hoping to get into a 3 series for about $20 k. This will be a second vehicle for me. Some of the most reasonably price cars I'm seeing are at carmax. Most are at lots that require transfer, however. 'Tough to kick them tires!

sunilb

hey brave1... just finished the oil change (very easy! though, I should have had a funnel and some gloves) and put in the new air filter. Two questions:

1- the old oil filter had black plastic on the top and bottom... the new one doesn't is that okay? it is the right part number.

2- that air filter was harder to put in than I expected. getting the clips back in place was not so easy. Now, it took me a bit of work, but I did get them back on, though I see a hint of orange peeking out near the hardest to reach clip... is this okay? Or should I get working on it again?

Thanks.

ximbri

Hey all!
I need to replace my 5psd wood shift knob for my 01 330i. I believe it's part number #25 11 1 434 497, Myrtle Wood. Anyone have some good suggestions on sites I could order from vs. paying full retail of $89.00 at the dealership? :P
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

div2

"Anyone have some good suggestions on sites I could order from vs. paying full retail of $89.00 at the dealership?"

Yep. Join BMW CCA. Many dealers offer members significant discounts. My dealer offers 20% off parts and labor. That said, I installed an UUC Motorwerks RK2 in my 3er; it was a bit more money, but worth every penny.

brislance1

Does anyone out there know why BMW limits the purchase of extended warranties only to original owners? I have fourteen months left on my warranty and since the car has low mileage I would like to keep it for many more years and would probably purchase one. I am not interested in other available commercial warranties. I called my dealer about prices on the BMW warranty and was told I was inelgible because I was not the original owner. I understand these warranties are the same as the ones offered on the certified used cars. Is that correct? My car is in mint condition and is up to date on all maintenance and I cannot buy the warranty, but an original owner who has abused his/her car can. Doesn't make sense to me! Any advice?

brave1heart

What div2 said. Check Pacific BMW for any OEM parts, though - make sure you ask for the wholesale dept.

brave1heart

I use a sandwich bag to pull the oil filter and never even have to touch it.

My '01 325i's oil filter does not have any plastic on the top or the bottom either. As long as it's the right part number, you know...

I've had a K&N air filter with a heat shield for 3 years so I don't even remember well what the clips look like on the stock housing. It sounds like you've pinched the air filter a bit or the clips did not close well in place? I'd try again just to be on the safe side...

iceyeyezz

I'm 16 years old and interested in buying a 1999 BMW 328i for $ 12,000 with 97,000 miles on it. I'm planning on going out of state for college in two years and will only be driving the car for my last two years of high school and when i come home in the summers the next few years after that. Is this purchase worth it? Approximately how much will this car cost me in repairs each year? Is 97,000 miles too many? Thanks for the help..

sunilb

that's good to hear (re: oil filter)... the more I thought about it, I became concerned that it might be the incorrect filter.

How do you like the K&N filter? I was suprised that BMW says to wait 60K before changing this filter... mine was filthy (and I don't live in a dusty area).

Thanks for your help!

erickpl

Heh, I have over 98,000 on it now.

I know I want my next ride to be a hard top convertible, I just hope the new 3 vert is like that.

I may look into it, when I know what I'll be doing. Join early enough to get the Roundel and be able to take advantage of the discount to CCA members.

-Paul

div2

The last time I changed the oil in my wife's 528i I went to Autozone to pick up some Mobil1 15W-50. While I was there, I checked out the available filters. The only one they had was an STP. The filter had plastic end caps, was labeled"Made in Taiwan", and it cost $9.99. I stopped by my BMW dealer and bought an OEM "Made in Germany" filter element for abour four dollars less than the STP junk.

brave1heart

I got the cone filter as part of the ECIS cold-air intake and I love it. A bit more power, much better throttle response, great sound at WOT. Drawback is the hissing noise at partial throttle but I don't really notice it any more. I clean and re-oil the filter every 10K miles or so - they are supposed to last for a while. It still looks brand new.

mschukar

I'm pretty leery about aftermarket air filters since I work for a filter manufacturer. Unless they can stuff more media in the available area, the way to get more horsepower is to make the media less restrictive and, generally, less efficient...IOW, let through more dust. Granted, oiling the media will help, but be carefull!

FWIW, some dirt on the filter helps efficiency. Changing the filter too much could actually let through more dust than changing on schedule.

-murray

brave1heart

I've had the intake for 60K milies - the car is as fast as it's ever been, the engine only burns negligible amounts of oil, spark plugs look good, etc. If it is true that more dust gets through to the engine and that it is significant enough to impact realiability, shouldn't I notice at least a loss of power after 60K miles with the intake?! The ECIS cold-air intake comes with a heat shield to keep hot engine air away from the intake. It isn't a turbo or anything but the power gain, throttle response improvement, and great engine sound are all very real!! It's an added bonus that fuel economy is ~ 10% better, all else equal. Of course, once you get the intake, you could care less about fuel economy )

mschukar

I don't know how long it takes for additional dust to damage an engine, but you may want to read this: http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/Air_filter.htm

Again, you have to ask yourself how this filter is letting through more air? I don't know much about K&N, but if the filter has lower efficiency, you may well be hurting your engine.

-murray

mschukar

Recently, the fuel mileage on my ’02 325i has dropped by about 2 mpg. I wasn’t too concerned, but then it continued for 3 tank fulls. Essentially, the last three tanks have had worse mileage than my worst mileage from last summer.

Then it dawned on me, I replaced my tires with Fuzion ZRi http://snipurl.com/h63g Could new tires lower my mileage that much?

It also occurred to me that larger diameter tires would record fewer miles traveled and thus worse gas mileage. My mileage had steadily gone up...could this be caused by the tires wearing and recording more miles traveled??

Any ideas on what else to look at besides tire pressure?

-murray

brave1heart

"Stick with a stock paper element in the factory airbox, you're not getting any more power with a K&N garbage-filter, just damaging your motor." says it all - this is clearly biased against cone filters.

JC sells the foam filter, so he is knocking down K&N filters and K&N is knocking down foam filters.

I'd definitely agree that an aftermarket filter that replaces the stock housing without a heat shield is a bad idea. I also agree that nothing filters better than a stock filter but I do believe that any additional dust that is let through by a cone filter has negligible, if any, effect on engine longevity, at least for those of us who don't drive in extremely dusty areas.

brave1heart

Oh, too many factors: air pressure, ambient temp, traffic, routes traveled, weight in the car (passengers), and most of all - driving habits: rate of acceleration, coasting, abrupt braking (waste of kinetic energy), running the a/c, etc... Your mileage may be climbing back up because you are more aware of the "issue" and are trying to drive more economically. All else equal (route, weight, traffic, temp, etc.), I get anywhere between 21 mpg and 38 mpg all depending on how much fun I want to have with the car. The best test would be to put it on cruise on a perfectly flat road, reset the on-board computer (if you have it as an option), and see what fuel economy it will give you when you don't vary anything else.

mschukar

I agree, there are a lot of factors, but the last three tank fulls have all been the worst I've had during the the three summers I've had the car. Yeah, one tank full can be low, but three?!? I'm driving the same route to work with (I think) the same basic driving habits.

I'll keep an eye on it.

-murray