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http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp
Narrower tires are better in snow - a long tire patch will dig into the snow better than a short, wide tire patch. But staying with the same 205 mm width will not buy you much and considering the clearance problems with 16s, I'd probably stick with 17s as well.
abfisch
abfisch
I usually change them when they start streaking.
I could have sworn they used to be 82.5. :confuse:
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
So...you could be right too. However, I would use 88.5 as the standard as that is from BMW itself.
I am hoping my barely used 04 325ci does better than Consumer Reports write up has given it. Last time I listend to CR I bought an Avalon and had some problems. 04 had a NON recommedation for a used car.
Many problems, some major. Got one without alot of gizmos.
Comments welcome.
abfisch
Do anyone know if wiper blade replacements are covered??
abfisch
Best Regards,
Shipo
It's a wear & tear item, so most likely no.
For me it is a safety thing. If they start to wear, I replace em.
-Paul
Thanks for your input. Love the frank discussions. Own a 02 Avalon. Just bought a 04 325ci SS from another soldier who came back from Germany, and am getting familiar with the car.
abfisch
Thanks
abfisch
My 3-series was wearing Yokohama ES100's on this rainy Oct. 15th.
Right click and save link as:
http://home.comcast.net/~fishkin1/wsb/media/SIR_Lapping_2.mpg
I drove my 1988 325is. It's parked in the garage M-F, but since we rely on it as a back-up family car on the weekends, it's not likely to become a dedicated track car anytime soon (I'm hoping for the arrival of the 1/2 series to advance my diabolical plan).
I'm surprised you like the ES100's so much. Overall, I like the way they feel and respond - I think they're basically a very good, but not great dry pavement tire. I like the way they turn-in and transition, but I think they lack ultimate grip in big, steady sweepers. I do think they have very forgiving breakaway, which helps an intermediate driver like me explore my limits with confidence. I think they feel kind of "greasy" when the road is wet.
I'm seriously considering a set of track-ready (non R-compound) tires like the Falken Azenis RT-615 when the Yoko's wear out. No hurry - I live in Seattle. I have another 6 months before Mother Nature brings track season around again.
Didn't you buy a TSX a few months ago and raced it sometimes???? For a few moments there I thought you'd ditched the Acura and went with a 3Series.
Anyways, great video. The car in front of you looks like the older generation MR2.
Always wanted to do that. But I don't think I can work the shifter the way you did. :P
I bought my TSX in May 2003 and had 2 good years with it (the time really flew by). I ditched it in June for the 3 series.
Yeah, the car in front of me in the video is a 94/95 MR2 Turbo. Even after 3 more laps, I never did reel him in.
I liked the line that you are driving but I tend to keep my 325i's RPMs a little higher - in the 4,500-7,000 range. I think some rotation might help with the tight turns too - try it when there are no cars immediately behind you ;o) I had one of the best club racers drive my car at one of the NHIS driving events and was amazed to see how much trail braking he was using and how natural it felt. I only try it in slower turns, though, until I am more comfortable with it.
Rotation and maintaining proper RPM is my weakness right now. I'm just starting to experiment with trail braking, but I'm not really comfortable with it yet...
I'm also frequently torn at those "tweener" parts of the track where I have to choose between adding an extra upshift and downshift between corners, or just riding the rev limit a few extra feet and not shfting. It seems like 6 of one, a half-dozen of the other - acceleration time vs. shifting time. I think this contributes to my difficulty staying in the relatively narrow M20 sweetspot (about 4200 - 6200 RPM) at times.
Well, that's what lapping is for, and these areas are what I want to focus on next year. I always ask an instructor to ride with me for at least one session to give me feedback and advice.
I try to stay as close as possible to the HP peak rating (6,000 stock but probably closer to 6,500 RPMs with my car's mods) so I usually upshift at 6,700-6,800 RPMs just before the 7K rev limiter kicks in. Upshifts are "cheap" - they cost maybe 2/10 sec or so but downshifts can be "expensive" depending on how good your heel-and-toeing is. The decision to upshift depends on two things mostly: 1. how long you are hitting the limiter for and 2. How important is corner setup. Going into the toe of the boot at Watkins Glen, I hit the limiter in third for maybe two seconds and I prefer not to upshift as that turn leads to a decent length straight with a whopping 100-ft climb to boot, so corner setup is critical. This is where the 318ti's get killed, div2 - can't exit in second and third is just too high, so that climb takes forever ;o) If I were to heel-and-toe into 5,500 RPMs while setting up for the turn, with my skill level at least I'd be spending too much energy on the hell-an-toe and not enough on the corner setup. If you are hitting the limiter for more than a couple of seconds, though, it is better to upshift for extra speed and to give the engine a break.
Yup, that's exactly where I am... I only hit the limiter (6800 RPM on my chipped M20) for a couple of seconds (just before turns 3a, 5a, and 8), so I think I'm OK. Now when I eventually upgrade from the 3.73 LSD to the 4.10 LSD, I will find myself up and down shifting before each of these turns.
I need to improve my heel-and-toe technique a little before I feel fully comfortable with this. It's not quite second nature for me yet.
It sounds like your E46 is a great HPDE car. The engine has a nice wide powerband, but it remains an inertia car that rewards proper technique.
I felt exactly the same way; I wound up making myself practice the technique EVERY time I drove a stick. Now it's such an ingrained habit that I even heel and toe driving my Wrangler. No kidding.
Actually, I practice it all the time too. Trouble is, my street shoes are wider than my driving shoes, and it's hard to compensate.
Yeah, I love my E46 325i - it is a great track car, commute car, family car, snowmobile, and could even hold its own well at One Lap of America with the same all-around setup. It's a keeper.
There's also Bill Auberlin's good description of Mont Tremblant in that issue. It didn't really hit me until you mentioned that track a few posts ago. I grew up in Montreal but wasn't a real motorsports fan back then (except for going to see the Grand Prix with my dad). I've never been to Mont Tremblant (except in the winter, of course) and have never seen the track there.
Pacific Raceways is fun, but it's the only track I've driven (and it helps that I live only 10 minutes away). You've got me seriously thinking about signing up for some HPDE's down in Portland and up in Vancouver next year so I can experience some new tracks.
Me "is this the only 3 series on the lot with a stick?"
Sales dude "Yeah, they're very rare and hard to come by. You can have one IF you want to WAIT 8 weeks. The stick and the automatic are pretty much the same, not much difference 0-60mph and the resale is better on the automatic."
Me (in my head) "They're not hard to come by, your manager just orders them all with automatics because that's what most people want. I seriously doubt it would take that long to get a car with a stick. I can read the brochure too jerk!"
I saw an E46 330i ZHP there next to the E90 325i SP and swear I like the E46 better. Maybe I've been reading too much ROUNDEL!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
-jaj
regards,
kyfdx
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ROUNDEL only thinks you have a good BMW if you drive an E30 M3.
Aren't the E46 330i ZHP and E90 325i SP about 10K difference in price? I don't think you can directly compare the two.
One of the cool things about the HVAC system on the E46 is that there are TWO windshield defrost modes. They are the upper button on the left side of the panel and the upper button on the right side of the panel, and their functions are "Normal Defog/Defrost" mode and "Gonzo Turbo Blast/Melt The Glass" mode respectively. Another way of saying that is, when you get in you frosted up car, hit the upper right button, and when the occupants are fogging up the windshield, hit the upper left button.
Then again from May of this year:
Yeah, I forgot to mention that. Most (if not all) vehicle manufacturers activate the A/C compressor (at least at warmer OATs) when the defroster is selected. What I like about the BMW HVAC controls is that you can select the "Defrost" program (top right button) which uses the compressor in combination with "gonzo max tornado" fan speed, or simply direct air to the windscreen (compressor optional depending on the Snowflake button) by using the top left Airflow button. I cannot think of any other manufacturer that offers that flexibility. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I hear you saying, "Who cares?" Well, I do. There are plenty of times when the windscreen needs to be demisted just a little and the need for the extra dry air from the compressor is unnecessary, and the last thing I need is more dry air being directed at my eyes (thus demisting them too). :mad:
I hope this helps. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
But, then again, she doesn't let me drive it much... :surprise:
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2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
-jaj
I've learned oodles about the ventilation system the last few days.. I even tried out the defroster..
Fortunately, the new car has the same system... so, all of this new knowledge will come in handy...
regards
kyfdx
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2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
My wife is happy... I'm sort of happy.. the bank is ecstatic...
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But on the Bimmer the car often gets too hot even if I only have it set at 66 or even 64F, and I find that I have to adjust that center vent temp control thingy to keep it from blowing hot air in my face (or cold air) depending on the conditions. It also seems to kick the fan up to a high speed before the engine has warmed up enough, so I have to manually bump it down to avoid getting cold air from the outlets.
Overall it's really a minor deal compared to what's good about the car, but I definitely think the A4 had a better system.
thank you