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Comments
26pmg on freeway is good for 320. We can get 22-23 on our ML320 on highway, and my E430 got 22.5 on highway going 75-89 on recent 300 mile trip. So 26 is doable on 320. Also TIres on 320 are more effiecient.
I also have goodyears, and when its time to replace will do so with same size, but will look for a quieter and more effiecient size. Also would prefer an allseason. Tires are great but im not a spead demon and would give up alittle on dry pavment for better in light snow and less noise. I only have 1300 miles on car, and noise will increase.
I added the chrome rings to the lights, and it looks nice. So far no problems. Only complaint is variable volume on stereo gets too low at low volume. Not so at higher volume. May can be reprogramed. Not thrilled there are no rear reading lamps on a car priced as so. My kids love to read, and overhead lamp is too much for driver, but im not going to tell them to put a book down.........
There a quite a few of us wanting this warranty on this forum. If someone knows of a dealer willing to discount let us know.
I chose to disable it and I'm much happier..
What is your email address?
MBvalueguy@Yahoo.com
To 44264, thanks for the advice, not a priority, but will get it to dealer in due time.
Smoother and quieter than the 16" OEM Contis and they've been fine so far this Philadelphia winter.
The variable volume, I meant the speed sensitive volume has to do with the automatic volume increase as the car speeds up (to compensate road noise). Some of us find it distracting and want to turn it off.
It has nothing to do with the increase in volume as you manually turn up the volume using the knob. However, if you find each click on the volume control being too loud/sensitive, try with other tape or CD, it may have to do with the recording of the particular tape or CD you are listening to.
My right knee never hit the dash bumper and it is normally only about an inch away. The seat belt retractors worked great; I could feel them cinch up when he first hit me. And I had only a slightly sore neck for a week or so. Did you have any injuries?
For everyone else's info, at minimum, the top of the head restraint should be at least level with the top of your ears. Ideally, the top of the head restraint should be level with the top of your head, or even a tad (1/2 inch to an inch) higher. Of course, whenever you have passengers riding in the back, their head restraints should always be extended to the proper position. With this in mind, you can see how inadequate the head restraints in many (domestic especially) cars are!
Drive safely, everyone!
Drew
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Hello all. This is my first post...but believe it or not I have gone back and read EVERY post in the past 7 parts (3000+). Picked up some very nice details and information, at the expense of about 15 hours of enjoyable reading. Thanks for all the help I have found on this forum.
Saturday the 25th I picked up my black/java 2001 E320 with e2, from Esther Wolfe at South Bay Mercedes Benz in Torrance, CA. Got a VERY good price, so if you're looking, give her a call. She is the Internet Marketing Director. Also got the two year MBZ warranty extension, premium for $1920. Two days later, went to Globe Tire and installed 8.5x17 AMG Chrome Monoblock wheels (not 7.5x17) with Dunlop SP 8000 235/45/17 tires. Have also ordered Zaino package from Zainobros.com and chrome headlamp trim from gapa.com.
I am very satisfied with the car, having turned in a Black/parchment '96 C280...no comparison really. The C was really a nice car, and I was skeptical that the E could justify the 25%-30% higher price, but it does. The E is much, much larger overall, and particularly in the rear seat. Trunk is a little better (the C trunk is really big for a compact). The E is a little quieter inside, has a much smoother ride, and the stereo is a little better. Behind the wheel, it corners better and has a little more precise steering wheel feel. It's acceleration is better per the numbers, but I do not notice much difference over the C. I don't punch either one much. Overall, it well ustifies the price differential for my uses.
Here are my thoughts on the car and experience, it may be helpful to those looking to buy or upgrade their E class:
1. My previous cars: Datsun B-210 during college, '74 Volvo 164E (wife), '71 Volvo 144, '84 Honda Accord, '87 Honda Accord (wife), '91 MB 190E (wife), '91 Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo, '92 MB 320SE(wife), '99 MB 320S (wife), and now finally my '01 E320.
2. My requirements: I have 5 and 7 year old daughters, plus sometimes I take clients to lunch, and found the back seat of my C280 to be fine at home but cramped for business. Therefore the E class was the ticket.
3. E320 vs. GS300: My neighbor has the GS300 and let me test drive it. Really nice car...just a different feel than I'm used to with Mercedes. Also, on a lease, the GS holds less residual value, so would have been close to break even financially over four years.
4. E320 vs. E430 and E430 Sport: I am generally frugal financially. Also, my C280 had plenty of power for me, and since the E320 is slightly quicker, I found the E320's power to be sufficent.
5. E320 vs. E320 Sport (& other options): I really, really liked the look of the 320 Sport, but thought the price was excessive. Also, here in L.A. the Sports are rarely discounted, and the base car can be heavily discounted. The amount I saved from window sticker on the base model was more than enough to buy 17' AMG wheels and Dunlop tire upgrade ($1900), and still save over $4k. Plus the AMG monoblocks are the same ones they use on the E55 (non-chromed and 18"), and I like that look better even than the Sport Wheels.
6. The Wheels/Tires: I looked at Tirerack.com, and the Benz wheel brochure, and narrowed my choice down to the AMG Monoblocks, the AMG 5 spoke 170, and the Sport Package Wheel, the F. Ended up thinking the monoblocks looked more substantial than the other two choices. The monoblocks come in either 7.5 x 17" or 8.5 x 17", or the E55 package which is 8x18 front
and 9x18" in the rear. In the 17", I agreed with the Globe Tire manager that the 8.5" just look more sporting, so I got those. The 18" presented four problems: #1, the mid-price tire choice in 18" would have been the Pirelli P7000, about 25% more expensive than the better Dunlop 8000 (see TireRack reviews, #2, I have heard but not verified that the ride would be slightly more responsive=(feel every expansion joint in the highway), #3, with the offset wheels, you cannot rotate the tires, which would add another 25% to the cost of tires, since they wear out faster, and #4, I wanted to find a mid-point between having a nice wheel, and looking like I was having trying to recoup my lost youth.. I thought the 17" was a nice compromise on that point. I paid around $1900 for this upgrade, net, after Globe gave me a credit for my new wheels/Michelin tires. I don't drive is snow more than once every couple of years, so had no reason to keep the
wheels +snow tires. Note: I have found the correct tire pressure for this tire to be 30lb. front 32lb. rear. At 36/36 from the rack, it rode way too harsh.
7. Paint Care: After reading all the post about Meguire and Zaino, gave Sal Zaino a call, and discovered, contrary to some posts here, that he has been selling his formulation for 11 years, with no problems and obviously very satisfied customers. I chose Zaino mostly because fundamentally I have concluded that wax is just a cover, and polymers bond to the paint surface to last longer and provide better protections. I found the Zaino distributor in Anaheim, and ordered with credit card for next day delivery Z1, Z2, Z6 and Z7, along with the applicator... around $55.00
8. Suspension: After getting beautiful wheels, I noticed that the E class appears to ride rather high above the wheels/tires (not just mine, but the stock wheels/tires which are the same diameter as my +1 upgrade). At the dealer, I looked at the new S-class, and sure enough, the S-Class rides almost a full inch closer to the tires, like an E that has been lowered. I think this is a much better look, and will investigate if it is not too expensive, and not hurt the design of the car, to lower my E to the same profile as the new S.
9. Getting the best Price: I have very mixed feelings here, since I sell for a living (telecomunications). I don't like grinding, but also I don't like leaving money on the table needlessly. I find the Edmunds Invoice +3% to be a reasonable mid-point. Let me say first that I think it is to your advantage, long term, to purchase where you intend to have the servicing done. If that just doesn't work out, I have noticed that Southern California is the Benz capital of the world, with at least 4 mega-dealers, and another 10 of regular size. Lots of price competition. If you live outside of Southern California, it is definitely worth while to call or email some dealers down here and find out if your particular dealer is being unreasonable. And if you have to, buy your car here and drive it home. One thing to keep in mind: if you do not buy your car from your servicing dealer, they are not likely to comp you your loaner car when you receive service. Plus, all the little questions you n
9. Getting the best Price: I have very mixed feelings here, since I sell for a living (telecomunications). I don't like grinding, but also I don't like leaving money on the table needlessly. I find the Edmunds Invoice +3% to be a reasonable mid-point. Let me say first that I think it is to your advantage, long term, to purchase where you intend to have the servicing done. If that just doesn't work out, I have noticed that Southern California is the Benz capital of the world, with at least 4 mega-dealers, and another 10 of regular size. Lots of price competition. If you live outside of Southern California, it is definitely worth while to call or email some dealers down here and find out if your particular dealer is being unreasonable. And if you have to, buy your car here and drive it home. One thing to keep in mind: if you do not buy your car from your servicing dealer, they are not likely to comp you your loaner car when you receive service. Plus, all the little questions you need answered during the first month..well, it would be a little ackward, and frankly cheap, to ask them of a dealer you chose not to buy from.
10. Extended Warranty: After three japanese cars, two Swedish, and now my fifth Benz, I conclude that Mercedes is almost, but not quite as reliable as Japanese cars...especially on my wife's '92 300SE, a first production year car that really started to fall apart after 70,000 miles. Learned my lesson there. Things that went wrong, in order of expense: 1. transmission rebuild at 85k, Head Gasket leakage failure that cascaded to include radiator replacement (because of oil in the cooling system. They wanted $2100 to replace the radiator and all radiator hoses, but I refused and only replaced three or four main hoses plus the radiator. Illumination in the dash for the outside tempurature guage ($1200 that I never fixed), front bushings on both sides (I only replace one, the other never quite needed it,
$600 each). Bottom Line, seriously cosider any desire to buy a '92 300SE.
In my '96 C-class, things were almost flawless right up to the 69,500 miles where I turned it in after a 5 year lease. The only things were, again, the light that illuminates the outside temperature guage. The '91 190E would sometimes stall, right in the middle of an intersection if you turned the steering wheel sharply while at idle....verydangerous, but somehow the dealer made that stop after two occurences. Bottom line, I've had the best and worst in Benz reliabilty, but still I didn't want to be out of warranty when I hit 50,000 miles (3.3 years for me @ 15k miles per year). And I also fully intend to keep this car for at least six years (4 year lease, two one year extensions if all goes well). This warranty was the only purchase I made for this car that, considering the E-class's superlative track record, I would reconsider.
Well, that's been my experience, for what its worth. I would be happy to follow up with any clarification that would help anybody out.
I get over 27 mpg highway, it rides and corners great on the 17" +1 wheel upgrade. The Zaino treatment gave it a mirror finish. The chrome headlamp rings also look great. No regrets whatsoever.
Oh, I just got back from Asia. Most of the E class there are E240. Not even available here in the U.S., nor is the E280. Strange.
Drew
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Great Post!
Good luck.
Generally I recall that the air conditioning is weak, and it is not near the car the C class is...it was just sort of a very solid, small tank without much luxury associated with it at all...in fact the '84 and '87 Honda Accords that preceeded this 190 were much larger and luxurious.
Also, if you are looking at a 2.3 engine...well I recall it was not among Mercedes' best efforts. In fact the 190 in general is probably to poorest effort Mercedes put out. At 12 years of age, I would find out which dealer it was serviced at, and get a complete computerized printout of all work done on it over it's life, if possible, and certainly over the past five years.
Lastly, I think it is quite easy to roll back the manual type odometer on this car. In fact at a party once, a guy said he enjoyed thrashing the car to its limit on his 3yr lease, then rolling back the odometer and turning it in for a new one.
If I were you, and seeing your objectives, I would be looking for a 5-7 year old Honda Civic (actually larger than the 190E) with under 50k miles. It will probably serve you better and cheaper over the three years.
But, I agree, the 1987 Accord feels much bigger inside. Probably, it's because of no side impact provisions inside the car (ie. there is not much space between the door skin and the door panel).
Is there any control button on the radio panel that stops or pauses a CD that's playing in the CD changer?
Does anyone know how to trunk mount the CD player?Are there supposed to be brackets with the changer?
My e-mail address is Wanderer27585731@aol.com
Thanks
Drew
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