I have an '02 Civic EX Coupe Automatic. When accelerating it redlines at 7,000 RPM. While going about 100mph it will not let my rpms go above 3,500.I can get the car past 100 if going downhill, the rpms just stay at 3.5k.
Now as I understand, the egnine's ecu has a govener in it that prevents excessive speeding. It does this by putting a limit on the rpm's while moveing at a high speed?
Also, the egnine has an rpm limiter that prevents going into dangerious rpms at any speed.
Are these two devicies the same or is there one for speed lock and another for rpm safety?
Also, if the car were to go 100 and I got the rpms past 3.5k... say to 5k, useing a modified ecu, would that be safe for the engine? Visual markings show 7k as rpm redline and from what I know speed doesent determine engine danger. It is the egnine's rpm that does. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you in advance for any and all help you provide.
True. I've looked at many used Civics thinking to move from my Echo, even test driven the Yaris, Fit, xD, etc and nothing is close.
The Echo is rock solid, nimble, gets better MPG than the hybrids, and the cockpit seems more open and roomy than the Civic. The style is dorky, but I'm not worried. And mine is bone stock -big change for me- but now I kinda like it that way. It was soooo cheap too, until gas prices spiked up.
I tried with the Civic, I really did. I just fixed the trunk leak in the Echo finally and am holding until the next deisel econo car from either Toyota or Honda. I've bought lots of new cars but just can't find anything as good as this Altoid can on wheels!
I'm at 81K miles and have not done any preventive maintenance other than oil changes on my '05 civic sedan. When I pull out in first gear, or right after I shift into second and sometimes third, when I am accelerating and building up RPMs, it has been making a sort of growling sound, almost like a deisel engine. What could be causing this noise? Also, when it idles there's a whistling sound? What could that be?
If it only does it when the motor is cold, it could be a cracked exaust manifold. From 2001 to 2005, they are known for that. When the car warms up, the manifold expands and seals the crack and the noise goes away. Hope this helps. The exaust manifold is warranty for 3 years 60k. However, the manifold and cat converter are all one piece and warranty shows the converter warranty for 5 years. This is a grey area for warranty coverage for this issue. Now, to get warranty, the dealer needs to show that your car has a bad converter and not manifold. This is the only way Honda Canada will cover it. If your dealer won't do it, check with other Honda dealers. In Canada, your looking at $900 to replace which makes it worth the fight for warranty coverage. If it's not the manifold, good for you. Good luck
I have a 1999 Civic and recently, every time I let go of the steering wheel on a straight road the car pulls to the right; when I added more air to the tires (they were underinflated) it didn't pull to the right so much, but it still pulls to the right when I let go of the steering wheel on straight roads...
I think the car's alignment is out of whack, but are there other possibilities as to what the problem might be? Or is there a problem at all? Is it normal for '99 Civics to pull to the right?
If the road your driving on is built properly, it's normal for any car to pull to the right slightly as our roads are designed so that water will drain off the road on each side. But if it pull really bad, have your alignment checked as this would not be normal. Check your driver's inside door for proper inflation of your tires and follow Honda's recommendations on tire pressure on all 4 tires.
A reporter is interested in talking with satisfied owners of a 2005-2007 Honda Civic who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to jwahl@edmunds.com no later than Friday, November 21, 2008 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.
Thanks for your consideration,
Jonathan Wahl Corporate Communications Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I had an 02 and I know of others that had 02 and 03's. To my knowledge, these are both great vehicles. One thing that some of these had in common is cracked exaust manifold/converter al in one piece. Epensive to fix at dealer $700 and hard to get aftermarket. Good luck
The 03 might still have manufacturer warranty if it was bought late 03 or leftover in 04. May want to check this out. Although, not much goes wrong with these other than the manifold and gan be hard to get under warranty as the manifold come attached to the converter all in one peice. Warranty shows converter 5 year warranty, manifold shows 3 years or 60K. This is a grey area from Honda warranty as they left a loophole in the warranty for ths issue. Some dealers will replace under warranty as bad converter whichgives you the new manifold. Some others won't cuz they are afraid Honda won't pay them or areafraid to get cought and loose dealer lisence. I had to threaten them to go to another dealer which is when they gave inand did the warranty work.
With Hondas, mileage is not an issue especially with the low mileage vehicle you are looking at. I would get the newer one at the cheaper price.
I would probably go with the EX with higher miles; you get more features, the price is lower, and 68K is nothing for a Honda Civic. (mine has 134K and is still running perfectly fine)
These cars can easily go 200-225K with good maintenance, if you're willing to drive it that long. Just make sure all the maintenance has been done (oil changes, fluid changes, etc), and in the case of the '03 EX, see if the timing belt has been changed at 60K; some people like to change it at 60, some change it closer to 105. If it's been changed at 60, it's a steal. I'd offer $7000, then meet in the middle at $7250 and call it a day.
I have a 1999 Honda Civic, and I took it to the Honda dealer for an oil change in December (had a $26.95 oil change coupon) where the service advisor told me there was some "seepage" going on in the engine (nothing more specific than that) and that it was nothing to worry about right now, but something to think about "down the road"
However, after that, the car has developed a burning smell from under the hood (not too huge, but the smell is definitely there when you put your nose right on the hood) and I suspect it's the smell of burning oil, and now, in the month since the oil change, the oil levels are down to just above the minimum line on the oil dipstick. Is it normal for a Civic to start going through oil at this stage (137,000 miles) or is there something wrong that I need to get looked at? I'm thinking about just continually adding oil when it's low and letting it burn until it starts going through so much oil I can't keep up with it
I'm thinking about just continually adding oil when it's low and letting it burn until it starts going through so much oil I can't keep up with it
I would do exactly that as well, make sure you keep a few quarts of oil in the car just in case. And if you're in cold weather climate and it's in the winter, make sure it's synthetic oil.
Heres the deal. I bought the car off of a buddy that told me the Honda dealership told him it would need a new tranny ($2350.00). I thought maybe, just maybe something else could be done to fix it. Here are the symptoms....
1. SOMETIMES grinds in Park, even when starting in park 2. SOMETIMES grinds in Reverse 3. SOMETIMES drives in Neutral 4. Drives in Drive, but seems to miss the whole first gear before it revs up enough to catch second 5. I say SOMETIMES because, if I play with the shifter I can get it to go in Park and Reverse with no problem, and Neutral will do what its supposed to do, but Drive always has that 1st gear problem. 6. SOMETIMES I can start the car in Park, and its fine, but if I go down to drive and then back to Park, it grinds like hell in Reverse and Park.
I had a code read out at Honda that said P0730 which I found out to be INCORRECT GEAR RATIO, but they have it on paper as INTERNAL TRANSMISSION FAILURE, I think somethings fishy about that.. I dont know.
I tried calling The 1-800 number and my Honda dealership and it seems like without a recent (within the last 30 days) diagnosis, I cant file a claim with that division of Honda America to see if they will help me somehow.
The car is a 2005 Civic LX, 115,xxx, 1.7L, no special warranys or anything, just the 3 year/36,000 mile.
If your mid-90's Honda was purchased less than 14 years ago today and has less than 150,000 miles, the cracked manifold and catalytic converter should be covered by warranty per the consent decree between Honda and the EPA. Also, the EPA defines which parts are covered...not Honda on other models.
Don't be bullied by the Honda dealers that tell you it is not covered if it is the style that has the exhaust manifold bolted to the catalytic converter. Per pages 10 and 11 of the decree, all parts including intake, fuel metering, throttle, injection, ignition, exhaust and emissions are covered per Appendix B. Some Honda dealers are lying or have been misinformed about coverage. Take a copy of the decree to them and make Honda do what they agreed to in the decree. This is the law. If they don't cooperate, call your state attorney general and ask to talk to someone in consumer protection.
I've tried pulling the cable in the trunk and nothing happens. The pin wasn't releasing, so I had to go in through the trunk, pull back the carpet and remove the mechanism from the latch to even get the door open. What part of this mechanism isn't working? Is the cable broken? What needs to be replaced?
Can anyone please help me? I have an 05 Civic EX, and after purchasing it in 09 I noticed a buzzing noise upon starting the engine. Since I purchased the extended Honda Care, I took it into Honda several times to have the problem checked out and they told me they couldn't identify the problem since they couldn't duplicate the noise. After the year was up, I thought my HondaCare expired so I took my car to a former mechanic, who immediately identified, duplicated, and was able to fix the problem- it was the starter switch or something. I battled with Honda Care and they paid a percentage.
A few weeks later, the car made the dreaded noise again. This time I just decided to forget it and the noise got worse and worse and now my car is stalling upon start up. Ill power up the engine and it will just konk out and restart again with no problems. I really cannot afford a major repair, nor can I handle the stress of another battle with Honda.
Hi i purchased a 2002 honda civic ex sedan blue also and my whole clear coat busted on it ... i was just letting you know that there has been multiple ppl with the problem ... honda said there was a defect in the paint .... but it is an act of congress to get them to fix it ...
Is there a way to fix the drivers seatbelt alarm , even when seatbelt is engage, the Red Seatbelt warning light is on the panel, and the alarm goes off ever few seconds. This is very annoying :confuse:
Comments
I have an '02 Civic EX Coupe Automatic. When accelerating it redlines at 7,000 RPM. While going about 100mph it will not let my rpms go above 3,500.I can get the car past 100 if going downhill, the rpms just stay at 3.5k.
Now as I understand, the egnine's ecu has a govener in it that prevents excessive speeding. It does this by putting a limit on the rpm's while moveing at a high speed?
Also, the egnine has an rpm limiter that prevents going into dangerious rpms at any speed.
Are these two devicies the same or is there one for speed lock and another for rpm safety?
Also, if the car were to go 100 and I got the rpms past 3.5k... say to 5k, useing a modified ecu, would that be safe for the engine? Visual markings show 7k as rpm redline and from what I know speed doesent determine engine danger. It is the egnine's rpm that does. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Thank you in advance for any and all help you provide.
I've looked at many used Civics thinking to move from my Echo, even test driven the Yaris, Fit, xD, etc
and nothing is close.
The Echo is rock solid, nimble, gets better MPG than the hybrids, and the cockpit seems more open and roomy than the Civic. The style is dorky, but I'm not worried. And mine is bone stock -big change for me- but now I kinda like it that way. It was soooo cheap too, until gas prices spiked up.
I tried with the Civic, I really did. I just fixed the trunk leak in the Echo finally and am holding until the next deisel econo car from either Toyota or Honda. I've bought lots of new cars but just can't find anything as good as this Altoid can on wheels!
Also, when it idles there's a whistling sound? What could that be?
I think the car's alignment is out of whack, but are there other possibilities as to what the problem might be? Or is there a problem at all? Is it normal for '99 Civics to pull to the right?
Thanks for your consideration,
Jonathan Wahl
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
pricing for a 2002 LX with 40K miles is at $8500 asking
pricing for a 2003 EX with 68K is at $7500 asking
Both are in decent shape.......
Can anyone help me with this?
How long will these cars last w/ good maintenance?
Any issues with these cars and the years they are made?
Any advice on counter offers I should make?
thank you
With Hondas, mileage is not an issue especially with the low mileage vehicle you are looking at. I would get the newer one at the cheaper price.
These cars can easily go 200-225K with good maintenance, if you're willing to drive it that long. Just make sure all the maintenance has been done (oil changes, fluid changes, etc), and in the case of the '03 EX, see if the timing belt has been changed at 60K; some people like to change it at 60, some change it closer to 105. If it's been changed at 60, it's a steal. I'd offer $7000, then meet in the middle at $7250 and call it a day.
However, after that, the car has developed a burning smell from under the hood (not too huge, but the smell is definitely there when you put your nose right on the hood) and I suspect it's the smell of burning oil, and now, in the month since the oil change, the oil levels are down to just above the minimum line on the oil dipstick.
Is it normal for a Civic to start going through oil at this stage (137,000 miles) or is there something wrong that I need to get looked at? I'm thinking about just continually adding oil when it's low and letting it burn until it starts going through so much oil I can't keep up with it
I would do exactly that as well, make sure you keep a few quarts of oil in the car just in case. And if you're in cold weather climate and it's in the winter, make sure it's synthetic oil.
1. SOMETIMES grinds in Park, even when starting in park
2. SOMETIMES grinds in Reverse
3. SOMETIMES drives in Neutral
4. Drives in Drive, but seems to miss the whole first gear before it revs up enough to catch second
5. I say SOMETIMES because, if I play with the shifter I can get it to go in Park and Reverse with no problem, and Neutral will do what its supposed to do, but Drive always has that 1st gear problem.
6. SOMETIMES I can start the car in Park, and its fine, but if I go down to drive and then back to Park, it grinds like hell in Reverse and Park.
I had a code read out at Honda that said P0730 which I found out to be INCORRECT GEAR RATIO, but they have it on paper as INTERNAL TRANSMISSION FAILURE, I think somethings fishy about that.. I dont know.
I tried calling The 1-800 number and my Honda dealership and it seems like without a recent (within the last 30 days) diagnosis, I cant file a claim with that division of Honda America to see if they will help me somehow.
The car is a 2005 Civic LX, 115,xxx, 1.7L, no special warranys or anything, just the 3 year/36,000 mile.
If your mid-90's Honda was purchased less than 14 years ago today and has less than 150,000 miles, the cracked manifold and catalytic converter should be covered by warranty per the consent decree between Honda and the EPA. Also, the EPA defines which parts are covered...not Honda on other models.
http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resour...erhonda-cd.pdf
Don't be bullied by the Honda dealers that tell you it is not covered if it is the style that has the exhaust manifold bolted to the catalytic converter. Per pages 10 and 11 of the decree, all parts including intake, fuel metering, throttle, injection, ignition, exhaust and emissions are covered per Appendix B. Some Honda dealers are lying or have been misinformed about coverage. Take a copy of the decree to them and make Honda do what they agreed to in the decree. This is the law. If they don't cooperate, call your state attorney general and ask to talk to someone in consumer protection.
http://www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/decrees/civil/caa/amerhonda-cd.pdf
A few weeks later, the car made the dreaded noise again. This time I just decided to forget it and the noise got worse and worse and now my car is stalling upon start up. Ill power up the engine and it will just konk out and restart again with no problems. I really cannot afford a major repair, nor can I handle the stress of another battle with Honda.
Does anyone know what this is or could be?
thanks