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From Shell's site:
Shell ROTELLA® T Synthetic 5W-40
Shell ROTELLA® T Synthetic is a fully synthetic heavy-duty diesel and gasoline engine oil developed especially to meet the requirements of North American driving. The exclusive Shell formulation offers users exceptional performance and protection in combination with enhanced fuel economy potential over conventional 15W-40 motor oils. This synthetic multigrade engine oil meets the service requirements of virtually all four-stroke cycle diesel and gasoline engine manufacturers.
While it says "gas", it's primarily formulated to handle the much different pollutants that a diesel engine gives off within the engine (such as sulfer).
It's not even listed under "Passenger Car motor Oil". It's in the "Heavy Duty Engine Oil" category (big rigs).
I wouldn't put this slop in my 1.8T.
-Craig
Seat memory - I finally have my seat just right, so how do I save it?
Clock - Daylight Savings time happened this weekend in my part of the country, so how do I reset the time?
Thanks again!
As for the Rotella Synthetic, I appreciate the info and have done the "research" myself. Intutively, I would consider using Rotella synthetic no more detrimental than using dino oil that I would guess be the oil predominantly used for the general Passat population. I know someone technical who works with Mobil lubricants - perhaps I will pick his brains on gas vs diesel oils.
a great deal by plane. It means that often I must
rent a car at my destination. They include Taurus, Chrysler Concordes, Camrys, Gran Prix, etc. NONE of them has anywhere the driving enjoy-
ment I get when I get into my Passat GLS at the
airport lot. Every tiring trip has a happy end--
driving home in the Passat. All of the generic
vehicles are "grocery-getters" compared to the
Passat.
The car is fun to drive and looks sharp. I love the turbo engine. You have all of the torque at low rpm. It is quiet on the highway and very composed at high speeds. I have the tan leather interior and it has held up well. The car is very well made inside and out. The paint has been epecially impressive. I don't have a chip, or scratch. And after three and a half years the paint shines like a new car. We currently have a 2003 Accord as well and to me Volkswagen does a much better job on the paint and (I can't believe I'm saying this) fit and finish as well. I'm not discounting other owners bad experiences. Maybe 2000 was a good year. Maybe I was lucky. My parents have a 2001.5 Passat with 35,000 miles and they also have zero complaints. I have a feeling that there are a lot of other happy owners that don't take the time to post on forums like this.
The dealer found a number of codes including the knock sensor and the O2 sensor. They said the O2 sensor was fine but the mass air flow sensor was bad and that was causing the knock sensor code. The dealer also found a lot of carbon build up and said that I needed the fuel injection system cleaned.
Well, the total bill was $555 and the light has not come back on. This is my 3rd VW so the high repair costs are not really a shock. It is really a part of owning a VW and needs to be factored in up front.
The dealer blamed the mass air flow sensor going bad on a dirty air filter. They claimed that according to their information the air filter should be replaced every 20,000 miles. I pointed out that both the manual and the web site indicate 40,000 for the air filter.
Oh well, this is my first repair bill. Rear brakes are next, down to 20% and then replacing the original tires at around 70,000 miles. Hopefully no more repairs for another 55,000 miles.
http://www.aerac.com/Newsletters/2000/Volkswagen_Electrical_Syste- m_Service.htm
My question: I notice that consumer reports seems to find a lot less electrical trouble by 2002, and I know there were some redesigns of the Passat(don't know details, maybe some of you do) in mid-2001. So... as I was saying, my question... has VW improved the electrical system in the Passat by 2003, to work out the earlier kinks, or do basic flaws still exist? Anybody have any details on this?
Thanks.
the one problem is this ...I believe the top plastic strip of the vent got knocked out of place.
Any suggestions on how to fix this without having to go to the dealership?
First use the oil extractor.
Then take off the belly pan and drain the oil "the old fashion way" into a pan.
That'll tell you how much the extractor misses...
I'd be very curious to find out BEFORE investing the money in the extractor. We just bought an 04 Toyota Sienna and I will have my first oil change experience with that very soon (want to replace the regular oil w/ Synthetic oil @2k miles).
Thanks again for the plastic bag tip with the filter... I feel pretty stupid not coming up with that myself! I have literally done something like 180-200 oil changes in my driving career (not all had a filter - I had a couple of beetles too).
With the time, you use the 'button' that's closest to the clock. I think left is hours, right is minutes, if I remember correctly...
Anyway, now I can start worrying about the new car (never bought one before), notably about keeping that beautiful interior looking nice during the winter. Anyone know of good sites with good advice on this? I'm thinking about such stuff (new to me) as Scotchgard. Also wondering about the best sources for seat covers, mats, etc. Advice or links appreciated.
Thanks to everyone for all the info and feedback over the last months. Really helped in reaching my decision. Edmunds' site really helped in negotiating etc., too.
I would personally get some of those heavy duty winter floormats for the car. You can pay $85 for them at the dealership with the VW logo, or go to Wal-Mart and get a nice set of them for about $20 or so. (I recommend the latter unless you must have the logo.)
Also, Scotchguard might be a smart move if you frequently haul around children or expect a mess inside.
One more q: How can I know absolutely for sure that all the recall things-- the ignition coils, the fuel filler cap -- have been done on this particular 2003 Passat?
Thanks again!
I doubt very much that a dealer would be selling you a car with the old coils, but the you never know. The coils were pretty much all replaced by August, and early Setember.
A local body shop says the "paint shield" is probaby a high-quality teflon-fortified wax. He said he could do something similar (not the same brand name) for a total of $460 (and $80 less if I Scotchgard it myself). A Subaru dealer on the Internet (not in my area) offers the actual brand name for $389.
So: What should I do? Pay? Walk? Bargain? Go to the body shop? Not bother about it at all??
Thanks.
So.... the $845 sounds like basically a profit-center for the dealer. But does anyone know anything more?
Thanks
I've had very good results with Zymol wax. It really keeps the finish looking good for a long time, and I only apply it twice a year. The Scotchgard can be purchased in an aresol can, and you can apply it if you think it's necessary. You'll save yourself about $800. The "Chemical Protection Package" is pure profit for the dealer.
Just when I thought I was about to drive off in the passat (I was going to sign and take possession today, without the "chemical protection", at $21,500), I got an offer from a dealer in a big city 300 miles away. He'll sell a 2004 white GL with all the features I found on the 2003 (ESP and heated seats)-- for about the same price ($21,600) And it will have a grey interior, which I'd prefer to the tan one in the 2003. Seems like a no-brainer to go for the 04, not the local one.
But... the catches? The 2004 won't be delivered to him for a couple of weeks; the finance arrangement is unknown (it's 1.9% for the 2003, but since this is sometime next month now it's anyone's guess what it will be on the 04, although now it's 2.9%); and my local salesperson says that I will probably find that the price isn't so set in stone, so it might go up, unlike the local '03. Obviously, he's an interested party. But.... What do you all suggest? Stick with the bird in the hand, or wait a little for that '04? (Which may have higher resale and with an interior that won't show dirt as much?) Suggestions and input appreciated.
Thanks!
1. the OAT is consistently 7F high. It doesn't matter if the car is running or not or that the engine is hot or cold so I know it is not reading the engine temp. My other cars OAT readouts don't have this problem.
2. there is some kind of "fan" noise coming from my rear passenger wheel well after a long drive. It would last for about 20 min. It is kind of soft but I could hear it very well in my garage with the garage door closed. The dealer has no clue as what it could be. It said if it was the fuel pressure release valve, the noise would go away in about 20 sec.
Anyone with similar problems?
What if the financing on the '04 is not as attractive as the current deal you have on the '03?
What if...you back out of your current '03 deal and the deal for the '04 falls through.
What if....the '04 dealer is trying to get you into their dealer and they pull the old bait and switch routine.
It is your decision, but at least you know what your getting with the '03.
Also, why not approach your current dealer and advise them of the offer you received for the '04 and see if they can "do anything" to keep your business. It's worth a shot.
Stay away from the "chemical protection package". That is an obvious profit center for the dealer. A good wax job 2-3 times a year will provide good protection against the elements.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.
I have never heard the noise you describe.
2002 W8 w/20,000 miles . . .
- Ray
Who is thinking about purchase of a a 'Tip chip' to address the lag / delay you describe . . .
If you are paying cash, the 03 will probably be less. If you are financing -- to buy, not to lease -- the 03 will be, possibly, less.
Rent what depreciates, buy what appreciates = CPA wisdom (no, I'm not the CPA who said that).
The clear choice is to lease the 04 based on what information you have in hand -- unless there is another 4 figure discount coming on the 03 (i.e., at least another $1,000 off).
For the wheel liner recall, simply look under the car, right behind the right rear wheel. If you see a shiny piece of steel attached to the inner side of the liner, you've got the updated liner.
I just had both of these recalls done yesterday...the coil packs that they installed were the "L" versions (superceding both the H and J versions).
Of course, I'd start with simply asking, but if you are a "doubting thomas" (like me), it doesn't hurt to look yourself.
How about checking to see if this dealer has an 04 similarly equipped, and if he will come close to the offer you received on the other '04? As far as the financing, if you have good credit, your payments won't be much different regardless of what rate VW offers. You can get low rates anywhere right now.
But a follow-up: the dealer said he'll throw in a high-class Scotchgard ("Super Polyshield") treatment, which has a 6-yr guarantee that if the fabric gets stained, they'll replace the upholstery.
Add Monster mats, say.
Will that solve the tan interior problem? Or will it still be a constant headache? I don't have enough experience with Scotchgard to know.
Thanks,
B
I've been using 94 octane since I purchased the car, which is recommended. I've even gone to different gas stations for fear that I was getting poor quality gas. The car has been to the dealership 3 times now (in addition to regular scheduled maintenance) and their diagnostic system doesn't detect a problem. The problem occurs at 4-5 times a month (and the car is only used as a weekend car).
Would like to hear from those with similar problems and from a technical guru that can give me some advice about what could be happening here.
My friend now drives a 2003 Accord.
Thanks everyone for all your input and advice-- real helpful.
They threw in the Scotchgard trtmt. with a 6-yr warranty, plus the Monster Mats. So I felt they had addressed my concerns.
Can't say I'm exhilirated (this is my first new-car purchase; I'm used to buying junkers and driving them till they fall apart) -- no fahrvergnugen or whatever - but a little relieved to have the shopping phase out of the way!
Now for the maintenance... I'll be ba-a-a-ck for advice on that, no doubt! Thanks again.
Sounds good to me-- save some $$ at the pump---but does this jive with what you all have heard?
Thanks,
B
Let me also say that dealerships have been known to say a lot of things that are counter to the owner's manual (including, but not limited to the grade of oil you should use and when certain maintenance should be completed).
Be aware that the car will run on any fuel grade (above 87 AKI). The engine management system simply dials back ignition timing to avoid engine knock. A side effect of this dialing back is a reduction in engine power and fuel economy. It's been hypothesized that the reduction in fuel economy is roughly equal to the reduced price. In other words, there is no net savings.
But let's say that there is no fuel economy impact. If you travel 12,000 miles a year and get 24 MPG (my current aggregate mileage), you'd use 500 gallons of gas. In my area, the price differential is $0.15 a gallon. So by using the fuel that is recommended by the manufacturer, you would spend an add'l $75 a year. That's $1.44 a week; not even the price of good cup of coffee. Another way to look at it is it costs less than a penny a mile to use premium ($75 / 12,000 = $0.00625).
To me, driving a $27,000 turbocharged car, this seems to be a reasonable amount in order to enjoy the full power and efficiency designed into the vehicle. To you, perhaps not. In the truest sense, YMMV. There are others here who will disagree (hey, it's a free country - go ahead!). In the end, make your own decision after researching a bit more.
Oh, and here's an Edmund's thread on this very topic...
pkradd "Why premium gas for Passat?" Dec 13, 2002 3:37pm
Look at the article on caranddriver.com 's website (use keyword "premium"). There's a great article on their findings. The finding is that cars designed for premium (and with sophisticated engine management systems) lose power on regular fuel.
#1 lower fuel economy (MPG will be worse)
#2 less power
(sometime the additive packages in premium -- sometimes -- are such that premium will keep the fuel injectors clean).
Hans (actually his name is Manfred) says in his German accent -- "use ze high test; ze regular gazoline is a valse economy" (I assume the word is false).
My VW/Audi products run "better" and by that I mean have stronger pull with Premium fuel.
The fact that the milage is better is just a plus.
These things were meant to run on "super."
The net is that it costs more to use regular and you don't have as much power to show for it! I cannot afford to use regular and I'll bet you can't either. It costs more!
One last sorry sorry point: the dealership in an attempt to make you feel that your car has really low operating costs may be telling you that you can run regular so that you feel you got this great car that can really run the lowest cost fuel.
The dealer person who would say this has some audacity!
Thanks again.
First since you have used not only regular but lower energy regular (cut with alkeehall) -- use a couple of tankfuls of 93 octane no ethanol fuel. Assuming you know the feel of your vehicle by then, you should notice a subtle but NOT imaginary improvement.
Inside the VW/Audi engines are three distinct engines: New, 5,000 miles, and 10,000 miles (and some would argue there is another engine that comes to life at the spark-plug change service interval); others would even suggest that switching to 100% 0W -40 Mobil 1 oil will -- after the second change -- make a difference. I am just now on my second Mobil 1 oil change on both of my Audi/VW engines (a 1.8T and a 2.7T) and I cannot yet comment on this latter lore.
I can attest that these engines take forever to break in. The first rebirth or molting takes place around 5K miles -- the engine gets a subtle amount of additional power (torque, I presume) and then a repeat of this effect at around 10K miles.
On my twin turbo engine, I invested $90 and bought Bosch SPORT BPV's (turbo by-pass valves) which improved the power and the sound of the engine. With a non turbo engine there are no BPV's but many swear by new cat-back exhaust upgrades and air filter upgrades. In a word, most of us have experienced or read enough to know that these engines will reward us if we use high octane fuel, slicker oil and do everything we can that will improve the "breathing" of the engine.
I have had most of the VW and/or Audi engines ever put in a US bound car since 1978 and I can attest to the 5K and 10K rebirth and the breathing comments. I am a "believer" in the super slick oil argument but have no proof that this argument has real empirical merit.
Making the premium change, by the time you are ready for your third fillup should make a discernable difference.
Keep us posted.
I got the Monster mats for my new wagon, as well as the Monster cargo mat. Both are excellent, although the mats are definitely the bomb.
Finally, I'm using premium unleaded in this car, and at about $1.90 a gallon in PA, this car is already looking like it's going to be very expensive long-term. It eats gas. The countdown guage will show 380 miles or so full, and go down 10 miles at a time every few miles. It's a pig. But I think it'll be great in the snow, and it sounds awesome when you hit the gas. It growls like the Exxon tiger, which is what it eats for breakfast/lunch/dinner.
Meanwhile, the first thing I've noticed wrong on the car is the driver-side wiper. (Rained this weekend.) The wiper bumps over the windshield, making that awful sound that old wipers make and leaving wet ridge marks. I figure new car, wipers should be perfect, so I expect the dealer to say something like, "Yessir! We'll fix that right away!" when I show up Monday, and put a new one on.
But is there anything tricky about Passat wipers I should know before I go in? I vaguely recall something about it.
Thanks again!
If you actually bought this car -- not leased it -- well, the upcharge on Mobil1 oil is low enough that if it were mine, I would opt for 0W-40 Mobil1 changed about every 7,500 miles or per mfg rec whichever is less.
Heck I put Mobil1 in my leased Audi's just in case I love the car so much i decide to buy it off lease. All my drive em till they drop friends swear that full syn oil is cheap insurance.
Supposed to help the power and milage too -- maybe marketing bovine scatology on that point, but, "what coult it hoit?"