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Comments
Thanks,
Brozhnik
My car says 10K miles -- I use Mobil1 )W-40 and new filter every 7,500. Ditto on my wife's 1.8T engine.
Dealer will use your oil and just charge a labor fee plus filter and "shop materials" -- I let the dealer do it since the service manual and the computer records are then kept up to date -- just in case I need the warranty.
Anyone out there change there own oil? Have you looked in the owner's book to see how much oil should be in the crankcase? The book says 5.7 qt or 5.0 liters. These are not the same volume - 5.7 qt is actually 5.4 liters.
I have been putting in the 5.7 quarts but the oil level barely clears the orange tip at the bottom of the dip stick. Anyone out there know what the correct amount is?
reidK...Well, the first place to look to see what the dealer did on your brake job is the receipt. It should spell it out...parts should list pads and rotors.
markcincinnati...10K oil changes with filter at 7,500? What engine and model year? On my 1.8T, at least, my manual says 5,000 miles oil and filter change is spec'd, but if you read the fine print, certain (unspecified) severe conditions could mandate earlier changes.
Our cars are both turbo Audis, MY 2003.
I changed the "factory" oil something around 4500 miles as I recall -- went with Mobil 1. Changed oil again at 10,000 miles also Mobil 1 and always with filter and always a VWoAorAoA part (they look the same to me). The engines other than the four rings or VW also look the same.
I am not claiming that everything is identical insofar as service intervals -- my point was to be supportive of the notion that a 0W 40 syn oil is probably all that is needed for cold weather starts assuming a good battery, good gas and that the car has not been idle for weeks and weeks without the engine turning over.
This all kinda got started with the subject of discussion being engine oil pan or dip stick warmers. I often share these discussions with my Audi dealer (and the employees there seem to either be Audi, or VW or Porsche technicians and they all have opinions that have been shaped by their experiences with these similar cars.)
If your manual says 5,000 miles, I would change the oil + filter every 5,000 miles and I would use full syn oil or at the very least syn blend.
However, if you are on a short term lease, I guess you could also opt for the factory minimums with the thought "I'm not keeping it."
My thought is I might want to keep my 2003 car beyond the lease and I will feel better about doing so if I have indulged my car's engine with the best "fluids." Of course, all my car's maintenance intervals are "free" I just pay the upcharge for the oil and for the fact that for every two recommended oil changes that ARE free, I add one extra one that I 100% pay for.
Sorry for the confusion and mystery I may have caused.
How old is your car?
IF still under warranty, would expect dealer to replace warning sensor, assuming that that is where fault lies.
Even if out of warranty, you might inquire about cost of replacement.
Problem with False "Warning" is that won't know when / if the sensor should ever send a REAL warning! At the least, you should be more-than-normally diligent about inspecting your brakes.
A Clear understanding of WHAT the sensor "senses" would also be helpful in determining how safe it is to ignore it. (Another consideration: when it comes time to sell the vehicle, a Warning Light can be a significant detriment: if you are likely to have to fix it anyway - at time of sale - why not fix it now & enjoy the peace of mind while YOU own the car?)
Confession: my SHO has not one, but TWO False Warning lights: the return spring on the parking brake is weak, and thus the "Brake On" light often glows; also the Low Antifreeze Warning light pops on Just Whenever. But it is also a 1990, and as Wonderful as the Yamaha engine is, the rest of the car is still a Ford (even if fairly well mainained Overall...)
Fortunately my Passat has - thus far - been free of such glitches..... (KOW!)
One thing about the oil change - I have not found an aftermarket filter that meets the specs, so I always get the filter from VW. Another thing that has happened to me, I had the dealer change my oil one time in the summer (took them the mobil 1 of course) and the next time I did the oil change the oil filter was on so tight I had to cut it off. I don't know for sure if the filter had not had a film of oil placed on the seal prior to installation, or if the summertime heat did it, or the the guy doing the oil change put it on too tight. (I suspect the latter)
Gator
My question: should I use 5w 40 or 0w 40? Why? (It's definitely winter here in Iowa, if that's relevant.)
Thanks!
Brozhnik
Thanks.
Regards,
nonelli
Thanks again.
Here's what I would do...read your manual again. See if it has a recommendation for oil viscosity change between summer and winter.
I can't recall your location, but that's my thought on the topic. If you wanted to give the engine a bit of break for cold starting, you could consider Mobil 1 0w-40.
PS: I have my oil changed at the dealer - no one even questioned the idea of using 5w-40, even though I had the change done just about a month and half ago.
Anyway, I've been able to locate Mobil1 0W40 and Valvoline Synpower 5W 40 locally. I'm inclined to use the latter (since it's what's specified in the manual)-- but anybody think I should go with the 0w40?
Thanks again!
To answer your question, I'd want to know:
1) Does the temperature routinely hover at that level throughout the winter?
2) Do you park outside overnight?
3) Where do you park at work - outside or inside?
If you answer "yes" to all of these questions, I'd consider the Mobil 1 0w-40. I believe that it in fact does meet all of the requirements specified by VW (the 50X specs, the ACEA specs, and the API specs).
If you answer "no" to most of these questions, then I'd say it's a coin toss. No harm in using the Mobil 1, but as you stated, the valvoline hits the viscosity number directly (although the Mobil 1 is "just barely" outside the 5w range, according to what I've read on the net). I'd probably let price be my guide then.
FWIW, my fuel gauge (2003 wagon, 1.8T) is the most linear I've ever encountered in 30 years of driving. You don't bask in the glow of a full tank for long with this car. And it's very linear right to the bottom. I can accurately predict how much gas I'll pump in with this gauge, no matter where the needle is resting.
Sorry I can't give you more info, maybe someone else here will chime in.
and the sub-zero period this week is the low end (I hope) --but it will be wintry here (generally sub 32) for a couple more months, I'd guess.
Next oil change will be, I estimate, late March/early April.
So... what do you think - does that put me in the Mobil1 category?
Thanks again!
Ultimately, the decision is yours! I've got nothing against the Mobil. I just like the security of having a receipt in my file that shows I'm using the oil recommended in the manual. I don't want to argue with someone down the line about some warranty item, with VWoA saying, "Ah-ha! Wrong oil viscosity, sucka! Warranty repair denied!"
This is also the reason I won't ever exceed the mileage change interval in the manual.
Just out of curiousity: I'm ignorant about the actual meaning of the other numbers on the specs so -- if anyone understands this, I'm all ears.
(1) The VW manual says it should meet "ILSAC GF3 SAE 5W 40" standards, which the Valvoline box says it "now exceeds"
(2) OR, says the VW manual, it must exceed "Volkswagen 505.01" standards; but Valvoline's bottle says it meets Volkswagen 505.00 standards. (Is that actually different?)
Since the oil definitely meets the first of those, it's fine according to the manual. But again I am curious, just in case anyone knows or can point me where, what all that means. (And while we're at it, the stuff exceeds "API services SJ/CF and SH"-- explanations of that would also be neat.)
Anyway, thanks again.
I'm not that religious about it. I just looked for what was readily available that would meet as many of the VW recommendations as possible, without spending an arm and a leg (which in my mind is anything over $5).
Suffice it to say, the majority of these specs reference tests for viscosity breakdown, oil vaporization, etc. You're good to go with your choice.
http://www.motul.co.kr/eng/fact_sheets/volkswagen.html
Thanks again
B
J/K! Enjoy the car!
Anyone have a similar experience? How did you get the light to clear? It was really cold here this past weekend - in case that has any affect.
thanks!
Thanks to those who contribute to this board!
- Ray
Hoping the 'new ride' will be as reliable . . .
Just my $.015 (after depreciation)
Cheers,
- Ray
In another 8 cylinder sport sedan w/5 speed man-u-matic, etc. . .
- Ray
Who would have looked at leasing if the annual mileage requirements weren't so much lower than the typical, actual annual driving I do . . .
People who worry about re-sale value don't trade cars every 12 months. You could trade the Popemobile after 12 months and your trade in value would still be crap.
Someone out there is going to get a good deal on a W8 were Ray absorbed the major part of the depreciation.
On the other hand, Ray got a nice car in the Lincoln LS Sport. Could anyone have imagined saying that about a Lincoln just a few years back?
I feel no need to justify my purchases. (And I cannot imagine holding myself up as a paragon of fiscal responsibility.) But I’d like to clarify a couple of your statements:
First, the negotiated price of the 3 vehicles actually totals just over $100K. (Trade values obviously muddy any deal, but it seems clear that most anyone could currently negotiate at least $6,000 below invoice for a very well equipped 2003 LS V8 Sport – if one with color and equipment met requirements – and $32,500 +/- strikes me as a ‘screaming deal’ compared to what else is out there right now in sport sedans at or near that OTD price point.)
Since I purchased the Y2K LS in Nov. of 1999 (Second LS V8 Sport delivered in the city where I was living.) that makes it more like about 50 months.
Now, again, this is not a great example of financial wisdom, I will admit.
But I am not sure my W8 can be sold for much more than the trade-in allowed (against that heavily discounted selling price). Even assuming there is a purchaser out there waiting and the car does not sit on one or more dealer lots for a while.
And I agree that I ate a bunch of depreciation, but as this amazingly complex car (the W8), imported to the USofA in very small numbers, nears the end of the warranty period, I expect the value will plummet even more dramatically. Point being: waiting any longer offered no discernable attraction to me.
Just my opinion. YMMV.
- Ray
Wondering at what lateral G the Popemobile would tip over – and hoping for a thorough Road & Track road test in their April (fools) issue . . .
Incidentally, the similarity in many aspects of driving dynamics and feel between the LS V8 Sport and the W8 with Sport package was quite striking – I drove them back to back from dealers across the street from each other.
- Ray
Admitting AWD advantages in many driving conditions . . .
- Ray
Always enjoying (?) the traffic in and around Atlanta . . .
(Serviced once at Jim Ellis in Doraville.)
I have friends nearby and would typically meet with them on a Saturday morning for 'brunch' or whatever while the car was in for service.
- Ray
Who could take the new Lincoln to the L-M dealer across the street from the Marietta Jim Ellis now . . .
Also, a neighbor has a 00 V6 stick with nearly 50K on it, and he claims it's been "bullet-proof"
Good luck on your search!
Jeremy