Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

18889919394162

Comments

  • Options
    mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
  • Options
    outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    Your '95 and '98 Camrys were turbo charged? I had better look at the history of the Camry again.

    I avoid the "lag" by revving to about 2000 or so before engaging the clutch. Smooth, brisk takeoffs.

    -Craig
  • Options
    pkraddpkradd Member Posts: 358
    No, my Camry's weren't turbo charged. I was talking about the slight hesitation when accelerating that is the same for the Passat and Camry 4 cylinder. Many on this forum are confusing turbo lag with low rpm hesitation I believe.
  • Options
    lkuav8rlkuav8r Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 Passat with 5067 miles on it. I was going to take it to the dealer for the first service. They were going to charge $35 for what seems to be a simple oil change. He also said they use castrol GTX. I was thinking for $35 I could do it myself (and use a synthetic)! I notice it has a audi filter on it. Anybody change their own oil or have advice WRT this?

    thx!
  • Options
    lkuav8rlkuav8r Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 Passat with 5067 miles on it. I was going to take it to the dealer for the first service. They were going to charge $35 for what seems to be a simple oil change. He also said they use castrol GTX. I was thinking for $35 I could do it myself (and use a synthetic)! I notice it has a audi filter on it. Anybody change their own oil or have advice WRT this?

    thx!
  • Options
    pkraddpkradd Member Posts: 358
    Some in the know posters in the past say that synthetic oil is not recommended. Look in your owners manual. $35 is not too bad. Did you think oil and filter changes were going to be $10? (Not being facetious).
  • Options
    8u6hfd8u6hfd Member Posts: 1,391
    5w40 is only available in Synthetic oil anyway.

    the alternate oil weight is 5w30.
  • Options
    5speeder5speeder Member Posts: 97
    $35 seems kinda high. I had my 5k service done a few weeks ago at the dealer from which I bought my '02 Passat. They charged ~$22 and put in 5W30.
  • Options
    vwguildvwguild Member Posts: 1,620
    available at www.VW.com

    Under a pull-down(VW,etc.) scroll down to Service & Parts
  • Options
    outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    For those who don't want to browse through the mediocre VW site.


    Oil Change for $22.95:

    http://www.vw.com/SP/gif/sstp2_enusd_oc.jpg


    Note that this is for the 4 cylinder (1.8T). The V6 is going to be more (uses more oil).


    My dealer accept this coupon. They use Valvoline 5w-30, which is against VW's own recommended oil weight of 5w-40. Their excuse? "Oh, 5w-30 is fine for the Northeast." It doesn't say anything about the Northeast in the book...


    One more way the dealership screws us (no offense Pete).


    -Craig

  • Options
    reidkreidk Member Posts: 46
    trlyka: (gee, gotta love these pseudonyms!)

    Read your post about changing tires / suspension on your 99 Passat. Also have a '99 (V6, 5spd) and put a set of Dunlop SP Sport 5000 Asymmetrical 205/55-16s on just about 1 year ago. (Replaced wheels at same time.)

    Have been very happy with these tires; they are better in all respects than stock Michelin Energys with possible exception of gas mileage. Was running 26 - 28mpg, daily driving; am now at 25 - 26 mpg - but Fun Factor is way up & am driving a bit more 'aggressively' as a result: the Michelin's did not like to be pushed very hard, whereas I have a lot of fun with the Dunlops. (Actually don't Speed much - goal is more Not to slow down for curves/on-ramps; normal corners are taken "spiritedly," but not so much as to draw attention - from police or anyone else. The goal is not to be reckless, but to 'safely explore the capabilities of the machine.')

    The Dunlops have been great in the rain, and did well with the little bit of snow they got exposed to last year. Have about 10 - 12,000 miles on them, and expect they will need replacing next fall (at current projection expect concern to be snow-worthiness for 3rd winter). They are also Perhaps a bit noiser than Michelins on some road surfaces, but only marginally, and have been pleasantly surprised at ride quality. There have been some complaints that the SP 5000s are a bit "soft," but then so is the stock suspension. (Haven't dealt with that yet - the tires alone made enough of a difference that it was almost like getting a new car, esp with new wheels at same time - visual change - and I figure I can enjoy the same experience all over again by waiting another year to replace the suspension. Hey, that 'new car thrill' every two years without actually buying a new car... Great!) The Dunlops seem an excellent compromise for what is still a 'family sedan with Real sporting pretensions.'

    -->OTOH, my son has a set of 5000 Symmetricals (NOT "Asym..."; in size 195/50 - 16s; a special OEM version) on his fancy Protege: that car handles fantastically on dry pavement, but he reports poor wet road handling (as against my report of excellent wet handling/braking; maybe I'm just old enough to tone it down a bit more when roads are wet...). He did ok in snow - but again, we did not have a lot of that last year - but has picked up about 3 nails (I have picked up one; presumably due to soft tread compound used to improve 'Stickiness').

    There are lot of good tires available - and a lot of Apparent changes in tire technology, what with new materials and composite construction techniques; so the question comes down to what compromises you wish to make - including cost - which hopefully will depend in part on weather & road conditions where you live, as well as driving habits.

    So, there you have 2-cents worth (or maybe 5-cents worth...), always remembering that it is nothing more than one opinion, based solely upon my experience... (And since I absolutely enjoy my '99 Passat, it appears from the overall tone here that I simply Must be daft!)

    Have fun shopping!
    GWG - RK
  • Options
    vwguildvwguild Member Posts: 1,620
    none taken..This article is well worth the read...www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts
  • Options
    edttedtt Member Posts: 2
    I have driven 3200 miles at this time and I am getting 20.1 mpg in mixed driving. The best all highway was 26 mpg. Does this seem right at this point in time. I also am experiencing get-away lag, will this get better.
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    The loaner Passat V6 I had did have getaway lag, and this car was a 2001 with 25K or so on it. So that probably won't go away. But the mileage should improve when you get up to 5-10K miles and the engine loosens up a little bit.
  • Options
    outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    What exactly is that?

    As for gas mileage. That's probably right. The 1.8T gets about 32 or so on the highway.

    -Craig
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Getaway lag is similar to turbo lag. It feels like the engine is slow to build power or something. The V6 Passat I drove (the "old" 2001) felt slower than my 1.8T does.
  • Options
    nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    I am considering 2003 models of the Passat, BMW 3-series sedan, and Acura TL as a business and personal use vehicle when my pickup isn't practical.

    I am wondering if there is any objective comparative performance data for the 1.8T and V6 engines in the Passat with a manual transmission. I read lots of opinions without a clear majority for either. Would appreciate any information any of you have. I do enjoy performance driving when I can drive my wife's 2002 BMW or 1997 Integra (yeah, she has both; both are coupes).
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    A 5-speed is a totally different animal, from what I am told. I can't drive stick, so I don't know for myself. :( But I hear the 1.8T is great with the stick shift. Go test one at the dealership and find out for yourself.
  • Options
    steveiowasteveiowa Member Posts: 51
    I recently took relatively long trip in my '01 Passat (I have the Michelin tires that came with it). During that trip, I began hearing a hollow, whirring sound from the right front. When I got home I took it to the dealer, who said the tires had "cupped," probably due to underinflation. He said there was no danger but that the treads wouldn't return to their correct alignment (that's my lay description). I had the tires rotated but the problem remains.

    Has anyone heard about this? I feel stupid but this is the first car I've had with low-profile tires. Finally, does anyone have suggestions about replacement tires? We're planning a LONG trip over Xmas and I am really considering replacing these tires for the sake of my sanity.

    Thanks in advance
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I got the oil in my 02 Jetta changed yesterday at the dealer. They didn't even require me to show them the coupon, they just gave me the special price.
  • Options
    trlykatrlyka Member Posts: 82
    Thank you so much for the report. I can see from your experience, that the Dunlop tires are working well for you. I will be considering a couple of tires including Dunlop SP 5000 and Michelin Pilot Sport.

    I don't mind the extra road noise. I like to know my tires are attached to the road ;)

    Thanks again
  • Options
    ggilliomggilliom Member Posts: 22
    My nieghbor is selling his 5-spd 99 GLS. It's loaded: leather, heated seats, sunroof, rear sunscreen. Near-perfect condition, only 20K miles. About the only thing it doesn't have is a CD player -- just the tape deck.

    Couple questions:

    ~ He's asking $16,900 -- too much? It's cheaper than the used used cars at my local VW dealer, but theirs are certified with 24 mo warranty.

    ~ Will I be able to add a CD player? Can I find an in-dash player, or only trunk mount?

    ~ Would an extended warranty be worth it? I'm thinking about $900 for 5 years/75,000 miles.

    Hope you can help with any/all of these questions. Very anxious to join this Passat community!

    THANKS!
  • Options
    georgek44georgek44 Member Posts: 81
    On a recent trip to England I stopped at a VW dealer and bought eight Bosch tri-tip platinum plugs for a little less than half what they cost from dealers here in the U.S.A.(£6.95 ea. as compared to $24.95 ea.)

    Does anyone know what the correct gap is for a 2000 1.8T with U.S. specs? The plugs came with a 10 mm (.039 inch) gap setting.
  • Options
    vwguildvwguild Member Posts: 1,620
    this price is probably fair, but if that is what he is asking he will probably take less...For your own benefit check the True Market Value here and at www.kbb.com....
  • Options
    trlykatrlyka Member Posts: 82
    First of all, if you can avoid buying a part from the dealer...... Unless it says VW on it, then you can probably find what you need at a Car Parts store.

    Anyway, I believe the gap settings are pre set at the factory. I just bought the Bosch Plat +4 for $5.77 each, and I was told they are already set, plus it says that on the box. Besides, I don't know how one could get a gap setter in the space with 3 or more tips. I think the single tip plugs are the only ones that may need adjusting, but I could be wrong.
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Check out http://www.nadaguides.com and fill in the blanks.


    The CD player can be added adfermarket, for around $400 or so from the VW dealer.


    You can get an aftermarket extended warranty for the car if you buy it from the neighbor.

  • Options
    georgek44georgek44 Member Posts: 81
    I wanted the OEM plug, a Bosch three-tip that is not sold in the United States. On a multi-tip plug the gap is set horizontally, rather than vertically.

    Does anyone know what gap VWA specifies?
  • Options
    dougm1dougm1 Member Posts: 16
    Can someone tell me where the oil drain plug is on the 2003, 1.8L engine?
  • Options
    mrd63mrd63 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 GLS 1.8T and the daytime headlight on the passenger side has stopped working. I have about 12500 miles on it. I assume it's just the bulb, but of course the manual warns against trying to replace it yourself. I hate to go to the dealer for such a minor thing. Is there anything unusual about the headlight that would prevent me from replacing it myself?
  • Options
    faradayfaraday Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I've had my 2003 Passat GLS for 3 weeks and noticed the mileage computer is not working very well. While traveling the freeway it jumps from 150 mpg to 20 mpg!

    It's the only problem I've found with the car!!
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    That's actually normal. When the gauge goes to 150mpg, you are probably coasting. That's what makes the gauge go up! :)
  • Options
    georgek44georgek44 Member Posts: 81
    There is nothing especially difficult about this. I had to replace the main headlight lamps on my 2000 Passat within a week of each other at about 72K miles.

    Just be sure to note which direction the notch on the lamp socket faces. It will only fit one way. The left side is easier to do because there is nothing obstructing access. To change the bulbs on the right side you have to remove the plastic air conduit, an easy but somewhat dirty job.
  • Options
    crisscrosscrisscross Member Posts: 20
    Tire cupping comes from misalignment. Underinflated tires wear on the edges more than the middle. The reverse is true for overinflation. Your description sounds as if this whirring sound came on rather quickly. If that is the case,it may be a faulty tire. Someone who really knows tires can take one look and tell you what the problem is.
  • Options
    outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    Unfortunately, the DRLs burn out headlights much quicker than normal (running a bulb and partial wattage that was designed for full wattage can do that). If you want to prevent this from happening in the future, you can disable the DRLs by pulling relay #173. The relays are located behind the fuse panel, which is located vertically to the left of the dashboard (open your drivers door. There is a plastic panel where the door meets the dash. Remove that panel).


    If you look behind the small fuses, you'll see big, blocky relays. Look for the one labeled "173". Pull the relay out (towards the rear of the car). The DRLs are now disabled.


    Now, to replace your own headlights:

    http://web.njit.edu/~rxp0835/b5/

    Click "Info Base"

    Click "Procedures for replacing headlight bulbs"


    I also recommend getting better bulbs:

    http://www.autolamps-online.com/products/orderform.htm


    The bulbs (both low and high) for the 2001.5+ (newer style) Passats are H7, 12 volt, 55 watt. I recommend the H7 VisionPlus (H7 12972VP). They're whiter and brighter than stock.


    Good luck,


    -Craig

  • Options
    pkraddpkradd Member Posts: 358
    Vocus is right, normal at the setting you have. There's another setting which changes the milege figure less often so you don't see the wide swing in numbers. Check your manual.
  • Options
    lkuav8rlkuav8r Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I have an '02 passat, and my infant is ready for a child-seat upgrade. She previously had a graco model with a base unit that stayed in the car and was anchored by the middle seat belt.

    The new child seat suggests using the "LATCH" system which typically consists of utilizing ubolts installed in the crevice between the backrest and the seat in the rear seats. I was suprised to find the passat didn't have these, but it seems like the dealer can put them in. Does anybody have any experience with this?

    thx!
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    The Passat doesn't have them? Are you sure? My 02 Jetta came standard with these bolts. Weird...
  • Options
    outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    The dealer will install these latches (for outboard seats only) free of charge. It takes a few hours though (they have to remove the rear seats, install the latches, and put the seat back in). I'm still not sure if I'll have it done (it may introduce rattles down the road).

    I still can't figure out why they aren't installed at the factory. The part itself probably costs 50 cents (in the bulk that VW would buy it in), and would take about 30 seconds on a technicians time to screw them in.

    Doesn't sound like cost savings to me (50 cents + 30 seconds of labor vs. 50 cents + 2 hours of labor).

    Maybe they figure that most buyers won't install them? Considering the Passat is a "family" car, I doubt that would be true, either.

    -Craig
  • Options
    mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    A friend of mine just got into a new Passat. On his first test drive, I noticed that the car would make a brief "Grind" or "Scratching" noise when he would back out of his driveway, and then switch to Drive.

    We tried to reproduce this again, but it only happens in a cold start.

    Is it normal for the Passat to do this?

    Thanks!
  • Options
    outrunoutrun Member Posts: 539
    Mine doesn't do this. Ever.

    But mine is a 5 speed manual.

    -Craig
  • Options
    mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
  • Options
    hoverdrivehoverdrive Member Posts: 16
    Mine is a ’99, 5-speed manual, and has made the grinding noise since it was new – I bought it in late ’98 --. This happens occasionally in the morning, when I back out of my driveway and step on the brakes for the first time (while still going in reverse). I am pretty sure the noise comes from the brake system, as I can feel a slight vibration in the brake pedal. It sounds like the ABS computer is running a test. The noise is a less dramatic version of the noise that the ABS makes when they engage on slippery surfaces.
  • Options
    mliongmliong Member Posts: 231
    My friend finally took it to his mechanic, and they said something about the secondary air-pump kicking in at the start of the drive - translation: normal noise.

    It's almost imperceptible now, but it you can hear it if you listen closely. I assume since yours has been problem free for all these years, I can tell my friend to sleep easy!

    Thanks, Hoverdrive!
  • Options
    pkraddpkradd Member Posts: 358
    I have a 2001.5 Passat with Tip. I get a low level "groan" when I back out of my parking space and engage the brake in the morning. It only happens then and not the rest of the day.
  • Options
    da_chengda_cheng Member Posts: 3
    My 2002 Passat GLX 4motion is due for its service.
    I got a service price sheet from my dealer.
    It seems way more expensive than for the 1996
    Nissan Maxima I owned previously. I wonder if
    it's just this dealership or this kind of gauging
    happens every where.
    For 160.95, they do the following:
    Oil & Filter change.
    Check & Top Fluids.
    Check & Adjust Tire Pressures.
    Multi-Point Inspection.
    OBD-Check DTC Memory.
    Road Test.
    Maybe I should go to JiffyLube or learn to change
    oil myself.
  • Options
    hoodornamenthoodornament Member Posts: 114
    Try a different VW dealer, these people must be crooks. I payed like $50 for my 5k oil change, and it should have been more like $30 except they rotated the tires w/o me asking. Additionally, there are coupons on VWs website for a 10% off scheduled maintenace. Granted, I have a 1.8t engine vs. your 6cyl, so yours should be SLIGHTLY more expensive, dont these dealers get audited from VWOA once in a while????
    Good luck
  • Options
    vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I got the coupon off the VW website for the oil change that was posted above. I have an 02 Jetta 1.8T, and the oil change was $23 like the coupon said. Only the V-6s are more expensive, not the 1.8Ts.

    I know what you mean though. Goodyear charged me an "upcharge" for the filter on my car, $10. That's why I go to the dealer now and get the service done. More professional and I also get a loaner while it's in there.
  • Options
    gatorsnapgatorsnap Member Posts: 56
    I just did my 10K oil change myself. It was very easy once I figured out how to take the plastic skid pan off. The oil drain and the filter are both right up front. One really doesn't even have to jack the car up much (except to get the skid pan off).
    Getting the skid pan off (underside front of car) involves releasing the fasteners (for which you need a short handled wide flat blade screwdriver) there is a total of 9 of these fasteners (two in each wheel well, 2 in the front, and 3 across the back) plus one (small) nylock hex nut in the front. The fasteners are released by rotating counterclockwise 90 degrees, and once rotated you want to carefully wiggle them to get them out. There is also 2 fasteners out of the 3 across the back that are a little tricky due to some rubber grommets. Just release them and pull them trough the rubber and they will be O.K.
    I decided to change my oil myself because when I took it to the dealer for the 5000K change some bonehead cracked my oil cap. The dealer got me a new cap and all, but it really bugged me the service tech broke it and did'nt say anything.
    I did have to go to the dealer for the filter though, ($12.00) I could not find any for the 2002 Passat V6. Fram lists the XG-2 filter but I could not get one in my area (CO).
    Craig, thanks for the tip about the DRL relay # 173.

    Gatorsnap
  • Options
    clpurnellclpurnell Member Posts: 1,083
    Latches are required by law on every car built after 9/02.
  • Options
    jjfishjjfish Member Posts: 5
    I am ordering a gls wagon and I am wondering if anyone has experienced the ESP at work. I live in a desert climate and am wondering if it is worth the $$$ or is the standard ASR enough? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.