I have a 1995 Max SE w/130k miles. For the first 75k miles, I had it serviced every 7,500 miles, but since then, only every 15k miles. At about 15-20k miles per year, it still gets to the dealer annually.
I'm not sure I would recommend going 30k miles between dealer services (unless you drive 30k+ highway miles a year). I like the peace of mind that I've had the tires rotated, brakes checked, fluids checked, etc. every year or so. I was able to monitor brake pad wear and replace before rotor damage, etc. They lasted over 90k for the fronts and 115k for the rears. Tires have lasted 50k+ miles per set, thanks in part to regular rotation.
I agree that going to the dealership every 3,750 or 7,500 miles is a little excessive, unless the car is driven very hard or has to endure a lot of stop and go driving.
There is no "free play" in the armrest in my Max. BTW, do you know there is a small, rather concealed compartment under the armrest? I did not notice it until I read a post on the Infiniti I-35 board. I am somewhat puzzled by how the PTY button on the Bose works. Looks like a gimmicky button that I probably won't find much use for. My earlier post about the 21.8 mpg is probably wrong. I forgot to reset the function before I embarked on the weekend drive. The mpg might be higher, but I doubt if it could match your 26 mpg, which is probably the highest one can get. Most reviews, including Nissan, say the Max does 20/26 for city/hwy.
my nissan dealer sent me a promotion for free 100 point checkup. 95 max gle 40k miles and excellent condition. only problem found was back brake calipers hanging up. same thing happened at 30k miles,pins were hanging up calipers, needed rotors turned and new pads. this time they said i need new calipers at $ 375 each or $400+ for rebuilds. took car to my independent and he confirmed problem. said he would replace calipers and should replace pads since they are 50% worn and not cost any more labor. nissan must have really bad brakes, just had front rotors replaced and pads even though pads were 50%. this time i went ceramic pads. car is not driven hard.
I have a 95 SE 5-speed and did not replace my front pads until over 90k miles and rear pads until 115k miles. The rotors were fine and did not need to be serviced, let alone replaced.
I have heard that 5k miles per year of stop and go driving and/or periods of inactivity are much tougher on a car than 15-20k+ miles per year of mostly highway driving. Your experience seems to confirm this.
By the way, my Nissan/BMW dealer offered a free check last fall and even threw in a free engine compression test, since I was considering trading up to a 530i. The compression check came back within a few percent of new car tolerances (i.e. "exceptional" in the words of the service manager). Unfortunately for them, they convinced me to keep the car! Have you ever had yours checked, and what did it show?
Have either of you heard anything from 90max. He never did say anything more about the "overall poor quality of the Maxima" after I asked him if he would cite specifics for us.....!?
Well so much for the accuracy of the trip computer for fuel MPG. I knew it was off about 2 MPG's but not this much. I filled up my Max yesterday after the road trip over the Mtns and only got 23.5 MPG. Of course, the car only has 1500 miles on it so I know it will get better, plus going over the mountains at a steady 75-80 MPH didn't help the mileage either. Overall though I am very happy with it.
i would agree with you about not driving enough is harder on a car than setting, also highway miles are better. there are two caveats. i also have a 94 s class mbenz with 30k miles and never a brake problem. also just traded 96 4 runner with 30k miles, no brake problems, and pulled mcyle + utility trailer with out trailer brakes. bought 02 pathfinder for more power, and arrogance of toyota dealers. just hope brakes are better, otherwise maxima has been flawless.
I dont mean to be rude, but speaking for myself and I think many others on this board, I am a bit tired of reading the same thing every couple of days or so about your 95 SE with 130k miles and how great and near new it is. Enough already we have been reading pretty much the same thing for months now.
Regarding the dimly lit check engine light on my max, I did run it by the dealer a few weeks ago and they plugged the OBD2 machine in- no codes were stored. They said one possiblilty is a faulty printed circuit. Now that the new stereo they ordered 3 months ago is finally in, the car will go in for that and the light. Not having experienced a problem like this, it will be fun to learn what the problem really is. Will post an update...
My front brake pads had to be replaced at about 45k miles by Nissan dealer. Recently went for a regular oil change (reading 68K), there they noticed that brake oil level was low. Took it to Meineke, they said the front pads need replacement. So basically the original pads lasted lasted 45K miles while the second set put by dealer lasted only 23K miles. About 70% of my driving is highway.
That's a little early for brake pads. I had my '97 Max SE in for its 60,000 mile check. Mechanic said I had about 40% of pads remaining front and even more on the rear. I've heard similar stories from others here. My driving is about 50/50% city/highway. Are you dealing with mechanics you trust?
I went to the Nissan dealer "County Line Missan and Mitsubishi" in Middlebury,CT. Even I think it was a bit early for the brake pads but I got it replaced due to the sense of incsecurity of driving with bad brakes, especially when the dealer told so. The second time I went to Meineke. As far as trust is concerned, I don't trust any auro-mechanic, dealers are worse especially the above one.
I didn't catch the year of your vehicle, but if its a 2000+ vehicle, there's a known issue with warped rotors that will of course affect your brake pads as well. Huge issue for many, many 2000+ owners.
habitat1,
Your 95 is a great car, but its not always comparing apples to apples. The fourth Gen (94-99) Maximas have not had near the litany of issues that the fifth Gen (2000-now) Maximas have had.
I have three Maximas. The 91 with 75k miles has had 2 brake pad changes; the 97 with 30k miles had squeaky brakes when new, but after a year or so the noise went away and I have yet to do anything to the brakes; and the 03 with 200 miles has perfect brakes so far. My overall experience with the Max brakes are good, and it seems a bit strange why the 5th gen brakes may be worse than earlier ones, as suggested by cedarpark. I don't think habitat1 would have problems with his brakes since he never speaks ill about his 95 Max.
I think $26k is a great price if it includes sunroof; I thought you can't get meridian w/o sunroof anyway. Did you lease, finance or pay cash? IMO, if you don't put on a lot of mileage (like me), baby the new Max with premium gas will not break the bank. I am still in my break-in period, the one thing I definitely will not do is burn rubber. I agree with you the Max is better value than TL-S. The only exception is the inferior rear beam suspension in the Max; both stereos (from Bose) are mediocre, at best.
Does anyone know what rental companies currently offer Maximas? Thanks, - Ray Who is looking for a reasonable compromise for some SoCal driving in a couple of weeks . . .
I have been interested in a 97 Nissan Maxima SE with 60,000 miles no leather no sunroof and he is asking 9800.00 I was just wondering if this is a good price to pay or if he is asking too much. I have been wanting a Maxima for about 3 years and this is the first one that I have found with low miles that is in my price range. Can anyone help?
I've posted here in the past, mostly lauding my new '03 SE, but since it seems to be the trend on this forum to find fault, I think I'll add my two cent's worth. My Max is an excellent car. I've Zaino'd it twice now and it makes the Silverstone (Titanium) paint just glitter and their tire polish is second to none! I'm even going to use the rest of Zaino's products on my interior (Leather conditioner, glass cleaner, etc.). However, in the complaints dept., I have a few very minor ones. The Bose 6-disc stereo is a fairly good unit, not as good as the single-play unit I had in my '97 SE, but adequate. The only things I don't like about it so far are the bass, which is a bit overwhelming for me at times (I don't play alot of Rap/HipHop on it , so the bass doesn't need to shake my ribcage!), and the lack of a "memory" feature when playing 6 discs on the "mix" setting. My home stereo for example never re-plays a song within the mix and stops when every song from every disc has been played. The Bose tends to repeat songs after each time you re-start the car - it doesn't retain the memory of songs already played. Now this is not a major pain but a minor nuisance. If I'm driving and the same song comes on I just hit the"next" button on the steering wheel and carry on. I just feel that with the top-line nature of this car, Nissan could have done a little more with the stereo. We've also experienced one occasion so far when the left-hand speakers "cut out" for a moment. We cleaned the head and, so far, have not noticed it happening again. We'll keep our fingers crossed and let you know if this is a recurring problem in the near future. The turning circle is a bit larger also, due to the 17" tires/wheels I guess, but again, this is a minor complaint. My sunroof sometimes needs two tries to get it to open, but that could just be a dirty contact on the switch or something. I will have all of these things checked out by my dealer at my first major maintenance visit. However, in my area, from past expereinces with my '97 SE, the dealers are crooks for the most part, so I'm not looking forward to having to deal with them, but I have little choice as long as the warranty period continues. Over all, when compared to equally or more expensive domestic models out there, you really can't beat this car for value. I can't believe the asking prices of some of those Fords, Chryslers, or GM's!!! From most "consumer's magazines", etc., that I've read, they're just junk! It's no wonder North American auto workers make so much money for such poor products! Anyway, I plan to keep my Max for a long time. When they start building them in Tennesee, I may need to reconsider my choice for a new car, but that's at least 5 years down the road from now.
I personally think it's a tad on the pricier side. As a general rule of thumb that I think applies to most cars especially the Maxima, a car is roughly worth 50% of its value every three years. So, if the 1997 Maxima cost $25,000 when it was new, it was worth about $12,500 three years later (in 2000), and in a few months (come 2003) it'll be worth about $6250.
Of course, value is in the eye of the beholder. The car does have low miles and it might be in fantastic condition, so a buyer might be willing to pay more than the above stated $6250. But no way would I pay $9800 for it knowing I could probably get a later model year for the same price. I hope this helps.
I have the same problem with the CD player and the left speakers cutting out. If I tap on the display, the speakers come back. I called the dealer and he ordered a replacement stereo about two weeks ago and have not heard from him since. I'll give him a call to see how long before they get a replacement in.
My experience with the automotive Bose stereo units is they are JUNK. I have had 3 vehicles with Bose and had problems with "all" of them. Acura even had a recall some years back for a bad amplifier..
Thanks Adnan! I am only 22 and I have had my car since I was 16 I have a 91 Acura Integra with 213,000 miles on it, yeah I know "WOW" so I am definitely ready for a new car that Maxima is the first one that caught my eye because of the low miles and I have looked in the paper and internet for used Maximas because I definitely can't afford a new one. Do you know of any websites that are good for looking for a car?Thanks
The dealer ordered a new Bose stereo system for my 2002 GLE about a month ago. The speakers started fading in and out while playing a CD. Judging from other posts, it seems I may be in for a wait on the new system. Has anyone been able to get a replacement system in less than 3 months?
I financed 85% of the total cost through Nissan. The max seemed a better value and the TL-S transmission problems concerned me. What have you heard about the "inferior rear beam suspension" Problematic? Also, extended warranties with Nissan, any experience with them? I got one figuring I would be putting 15K+ miles per year. No problems with the stereo... yet.
I have a 2K SE and had similar problems with my car(pinging around 2400RPM). With my car a code was never registered in the computer and the check engine light never came on. The problem turned out to be the coils and after all six were replaced the problem never resurfaced. I would have thought that Nissan fixed that problem before they came out with the 3.5 (it was a known problem on the 2K Max) but maybe they didn't.
Also, Obi, if you are getting pinging on a regular basis you should have it looked at. Even if it doesn't bother you it may be causing damage to your engine. Bottom line is that it is not supposed to do that.
The rear suspension is inferior because it is not four wheel independent. You will feel and notice it when you hit a bump or expansion joint on the highway. The car will hop but you should have no problem controlling the steering. IMO, you don't need an extended warranty. I have three Maximas and they have held up very well. All you need is regular maintenance.
I had a slight rattle in my 2k2 Max driver's side door, and just fixed it. In case any of you ever have such a problem, here's what you need to do to remove the inside door panel (at least this is how I did it).
1/ Towards the upper inside front of the door, pop off the round plastic cap and remove the bolt inside.
2/ Inside your door handle (where you put your hands to pull the door closed), pop out the round plastic cap using a screwdriver and remove that screw. This lets you remove the plastic top to the power window/lock cluster (tilt the top up from the back side and then pull it out).
3/ Remove the oval plastic shell surrounding the handle for opening the door. It snaps on using plastic tabs (top, bottom, and sides), so it's best to use a screwdriver to gently release the tabs.
4/ Grasp the top of the door panel at one end where it touches the window, and gently twist it up and over the door frame. Do this all along the length of the panel where it touches the window.
5/ Pop out the plastic connectors along the sides and bottom of the door to finish removing it. Use your hands to do it, although it might take a little force to make them pop out. I think there were 3 along the bottom and 2 on each side.
6/ Now that the panel is loose, undo the wires for the gas cap/trunk opener. They just snap in using tabs. So use a screwdriver to lift the tab. You can now completely remove the panel.
As far as my rattle goes, I'm not 100% sure what it was. I did notice there were a couple of spots where the clear plastic liner could wiggle and vibrate against the metal frame. So I just glued the liner down using some plastic rubber. There was also a styrofoam piece on the door panel that was rubbing a little on some plastic, so I put a dab of grease on that.
I then reinstalled the panel, went for a quick test drive, and the noise was gone.
Realistically, I don't think the I beam suspension in the rear presents a real problem. It's not the most high tech suspension, but most drivers would not notice any difference. U will get a little hop over certain types of bumps, but it shouldn't present a problem, and even with the independent all the way around you could still get some hop. The vehicle is a great car for the money.
Just found a 97 fully loaded Maxima being sold by a dealer for $8500. No significant body damage, rides like new but the check engine light comes on. He is going to get it serviced. I gave him $100 on the spot and said check it out and see what the computer hook up says about this check engine light. The miles are 76K. If nothing serious I want this car. Truly a luxury model in a hunter green color. Two other people stopped to look at it while I was talking to dealer/owner.
I couldn't resist any longer, purchased a sheer silver 2003 with black leather and the platinum package last night. I have to admit I absolutely love this car. I hope it is as reliable as some of your Maxima's. I'm planning to try and get 200K out of mine.
today with the 6 speed....love the powertrain...car was nice.....not overwhelmingly great but a very good cruiser.......will consider highly for next car........
I've owned Maxima's for many years both with and without 4-wheel independent suspension and trust me,unless you drive your car to it's ultimate suspension limits, it doesn't matter if you have a multi-link beam or a 4- wheel ind. susp.
Unless you are a super aggressive driver and attack back country roads with a vengence, you probable won't notice much difference except for the very rare and occasional hop. My '86 Max did have one nice feature that I miss. It had a 3-way adjustable suspension ( soft, normal, firm ) con- trolled by a switch on the console. Each shock had a motorized diaphram which would open or close to change the damping depending on where you had set the switch. Nice !!
Yamadave: Congrats on your sheer beauty. I know your gonna love the car. Don't worry about reliability. Use premium fuel, and change fluids and filters regularly and you'll be set.
To compare the Max with less sophisticated cars such as Corolla and Matrix does not bode well for Max fans. Although the Max suspension is not terrible, I am not aware of any other comparable car (except for the Infinit I35) with a similar setup,including Max's former competitors such as Camry and Accord.
As Edmunds and other auto reviewers pointed out, the rear beam suspension is a cost-cutting measure by Nissan. That is why after numerous consumers' complaints, Nissan finally will revert the suspension to the traditional four wheel independent type in 2004. However, starting in 2004, all Max will be made in the US (versus Japan), and that is one of the reasons why I opted to buy the 2003, even though it has the inferior suspension, plus the fact that most first year cars are prone to having problems. Just my opinion, but I guess other members on this Board will like share my sentiments.
Boy, I thought I was right with my stereo. I have an 02 SE and sometimes the left drivers side speaker does not work when the CD is playing. It works fine with the radio. Has anyone had this type of experience with their BOSE?
Many people are having the exact same problem with the left side speaker cutting out when playing CD's. Many people's stereos are being replaced under warranty, the problem is there's a long wait now to get one because of all the people needing them. Check www.maxima.org to find out lots more info. That board is sweet, tons of guys that know their stuff and it's 100 times more active than this Edmunds board.
I have a 2k SE and have only cleared 20 mgp a few times. Don't waste your breathe with Nissan, however. They will give you a BS response that the mileage listed are estimates. My advise, if it doesn't get better soon, unload it fast and switch to a different manufacturer. Nissan = junk
I usually hover slightly over 20 (20.8 last fill) on city driving. Gas mileage will improve over the next 5 thousand miles. I have a manual transmission however, which adds slightly to fuel efficiency. My best on the highway has been 26 mpg with pretty steady 70-75mph cruising. -Getz
I have a 00 SE Automatic and I consistently get around 20-21mpg around town and 26+ on the freeway. I've broke 30mpg going through Iowa where the speed limit is 60mph. If you keep the Max at 60-65mph your mileage will be huge. It really drops off when you go > 70mph which of course everybody does.
Smancow...you are saying NISSAN = Junk because of your cars bad mileage? Unless you have other problems then that is one of the most stupid comments I have ever heard. My 03 SE Auto consistently gets 19-20 combined and a top so far of 23.5 mostly highway with 1200 miles on it. My car is tight, rattle free, and has no warranty items needed at all. Love the car and I believe the majority of owners do too. Learn how to drive and you might get better gas mileage!
Comments
I'm not sure I would recommend going 30k miles between dealer services (unless you drive 30k+ highway miles a year). I like the peace of mind that I've had the tires rotated, brakes checked, fluids checked, etc. every year or so. I was able to monitor brake pad wear and replace before rotor damage, etc. They lasted over 90k for the fronts and 115k for the rears. Tires have lasted 50k+ miles per set, thanks in part to regular rotation.
I agree that going to the dealership every 3,750 or 7,500 miles is a little excessive, unless the car is driven very hard or has to endure a lot of stop and go driving.
I have a 95 SE 5-speed and did not replace my front pads until over 90k miles and rear pads until 115k miles. The rotors were fine and did not need to be serviced, let alone replaced.
I have heard that 5k miles per year of stop and go driving and/or periods of inactivity are much tougher on a car than 15-20k+ miles per year of mostly highway driving. Your experience seems to confirm this.
By the way, my Nissan/BMW dealer offered a free check last fall and even threw in a free engine compression test, since I was considering trading up to a 530i. The compression check came back within a few percent of new car tolerances (i.e. "exceptional" in the words of the service manager). Unfortunately for them, they convinced me to keep the car! Have you ever had yours checked, and what did it show?
never did say anything more about the "overall poor
quality of the Maxima" after I asked him if he would cite specifics for us.....!?
berbel
But we want to know more about the S2000 now!
ago and they plugged the OBD2 machine in- no codes were stored. They said one possiblilty is a faulty printed circuit. Now that the new stereo they ordered 3 months ago is finally in, the car will go in for that and the light. Not having experienced a problem like this, it will be fun to learn what the problem really is. Will post an update...
I didn't catch the year of your vehicle, but if its a 2000+ vehicle, there's a known issue with warped rotors that will of course affect your brake pads as well. Huge issue for many, many 2000+ owners.
habitat1,
Your 95 is a great car, but its not always comparing apples to apples. The fourth Gen (94-99) Maximas have not had near the litany of issues that the fifth Gen (2000-now) Maximas have had.
1) Got a 2003 GLE meridian ed. w/traction for $26K + tax + reg. Good deal or could I have done better with this incentive going on this month?
2) Dealer says octane 89 gas (the middle rated one) is good enough. Anyone recommend going with supreme?
3) Anyone recommend/not recommend anything during the "break-in" 1000 miles (other than what the manual says)?
Decided on the Max instead of Acura TL-S. Time will tell, but thus far very happy.
Thanks,
- Ray
Who is looking for a reasonable compromise for some SoCal driving in a couple of weeks . . .
And what are you going to do without your beloved Passat W8 for those couple of weeks?
I personally think it's a tad on the pricier side. As a general rule of thumb that I think applies to most cars especially the Maxima, a car is roughly worth 50% of its value every three years. So, if the 1997 Maxima cost $25,000 when it was new, it was worth about $12,500 three years later (in 2000), and in a few months (come 2003) it'll be worth about $6250.
Of course, value is in the eye of the beholder. The car does have low miles and it might be in fantastic condition, so a buyer might be willing to pay more than the above stated $6250. But no way would I pay $9800 for it knowing I could probably get a later model year for the same price. I hope this helps.
Best of luck,
Adnan
of July, if that helps.
I financed 85% of the total cost through Nissan.
The max seemed a better value and the TL-S transmission problems concerned me. What have you heard about the "inferior rear beam suspension" Problematic? Also, extended warranties with Nissan, any experience with them? I got one figuring I would be putting 15K+ miles per year. No problems with the stereo... yet.
Also, Obi, if you are getting pinging on a regular basis you should have it looked at. Even if it doesn't bother you it may be causing damage to your engine. Bottom line is that it is not supposed to do that.
1/ Towards the upper inside front of the door, pop off the round plastic cap and remove the bolt inside.
2/ Inside your door handle (where you put your hands to pull the door closed), pop out the round plastic cap using a screwdriver and remove that screw. This lets you remove the plastic top to the power window/lock cluster (tilt the top up from the back side and then pull it out).
3/ Remove the oval plastic shell surrounding the handle for opening the door. It snaps on using plastic tabs (top, bottom, and sides), so it's best to use a screwdriver to gently release the tabs.
4/ Grasp the top of the door panel at one end where it touches the window, and gently twist it up and over the door frame. Do this all along the length of the panel where it touches the window.
5/ Pop out the plastic connectors along the sides and bottom of the door to finish removing it. Use your hands to do it, although it might take a little force to make them pop out. I think there were 3 along the bottom and 2 on each side.
6/ Now that the panel is loose, undo the wires for the gas cap/trunk opener. They just snap in using tabs. So use a screwdriver to lift the tab. You can now completely remove the panel.
As far as my rattle goes, I'm not 100% sure what it was. I did notice there were a couple of spots where the clear plastic liner could wiggle and vibrate against the metal frame. So I just glued the liner down using some plastic rubber. There was also a styrofoam piece on the door panel that was rubbing a little on some plastic, so I put a dab of grease on that.
I then reinstalled the panel, went for a quick test drive, and the noise was gone.
and without 4-wheel independent suspension and trust me,unless you drive your car to it's ultimate suspension limits, it doesn't matter
if you have a multi-link beam or a 4- wheel
ind. susp.
Unless you are a super aggressive driver and
attack back country roads with a vengence, you
probable won't notice much difference except for
the very rare and occasional hop. My '86 Max did
have one nice feature that I miss. It had a 3-way
adjustable suspension ( soft, normal, firm ) con-
trolled by a switch on the console. Each shock
had a motorized diaphram which would open or close to change the damping depending on where
you had set the switch. Nice !!
Yamadave: Congrats on your sheer beauty. I
know your gonna love the car. Don't worry about
reliability. Use premium fuel, and change fluids and filters regularly and you'll be set.
The new Corolla's and Matrix have something called "semi-intependant" trailing arms, but it looks identical to my 2002 SE's suspension
???
Obi
As Edmunds and other auto reviewers pointed out, the rear beam suspension is a cost-cutting measure by Nissan. That is why after numerous consumers' complaints, Nissan finally will revert the suspension to the traditional four wheel independent type in 2004. However, starting in 2004, all Max will be made in the US (versus Japan), and that is one of the reasons why I opted to buy the 2003, even though it has the inferior suspension, plus the fact that most first year cars are prone to having problems. Just my opinion, but I guess other members on this Board will like share my sentiments.
Seeya
-Getz