looked at a 3.5 SL today and the only thing that I want on it is the Elite package for the back seats... any clue as to what I might or should at least try to shot for in terms of a good deal on em.. there hard to find in ohio but I just came back from a trip to omaha nebraska and I stopped in a dealorship.. they have 20+ all with the Elite package on them... they say they just can't move em... people don't like it... whats the chances of getting a good price @ a dealor in ohio to have them bring in one from nebraska... its not like they'd need to actually do any looking... cause I know the dealorship that has em already... any comments
I would go to that Nebraska dealership and negotiate the best price with them. They are likely to give you a good deal if they have many of these vehicles and if they are not moving them. My experience is that any dealer is more inclined to give you a good price on any vehicle he has in stock vs one he has to order or trade for with another dealer. If he has to trade it with another dealer, he will charge you extra for the car relocation (especially if you want it transported on a flatbed truck) and you will not get the best deal on the price either. Also, your Ohio dealer will most likely try to locate a car you are looking for somewhere in Ohio - it is highly likely that there is one within a 200 mile radius.
Suggestion: get on www.nissanusa.com and use the search function. You can search the entire state of Ohio for Maxima inventory at various Nissan dealers. I bet you will find one you are looking for in Ohio. Then you can go to that dealer and negotiate the best deal.
what i would do is .. fax over to the Nebraska dealership maybe directly to the Internet manager an offer and see if they're willing to sell.. then get an signed copy of the sales receipt before heading to Nebraska to do the final sale.
went with my uncle today and started negotiating some prices today on one of the SL with the elite package and sunroof... everything else they had i didn't want... the one I started negotiating on had these two plus the drivers package... which I really don't care for, but they don't have my exact car there... this one came close... could you please help me as to figuring out what would be a good price to argue this too? anyone have any experience getting a good price on these cars... I'm looking to lease it for 36 months... trying to get a good deal payment wise...
Unfortunately, there is an infinite number of possible combinations of downpayments and monthly payments. They can give you a low monthly payment assuming you put down a substantial downpayment. For some vehicole that retain very high resale values, like Hondas, they sometimes offer low monthly payments with low or no downpayment. I do not believe Maximas fall into this category. In any case, do not make the mistake requesting low payments. Make sure the total you pay is reasonable. To start with try to figure out the residual value of a 3 year old Maxima with 36K miles. Then take that value and add your downpayment and sum of montly payments and see where you are. (The monthly payments should be adjusted for the interest rate before you add them up).
As I see it you are already making a mistake. Buying a car with every possible option is not the best way to go when buying or leasing. This vehicle will depreciate disproportionally to say, a base Maxima SL. The Elite package will return only small fraction of the original value on investment.
I can't remember exactly why, but I have a good buddy who's a CPA and sharp as a tack. I know he's always said when leasing go in NO MONEY DOWN. Can't remember the reasoning, I'll have to ask, but I know for sure the best way into a lease is zero out of pocket. Back with more info when can back up my argument.
I guess the main reason for that theory is why give them money up front to make your payment lower when you can keep that money (and earn interest on it) and just pay more each month? Would you rather give me $4000 now and $300/mo or $400/mo and keep your four large in the bank???? If dire straits hit then better to have the 4K in hand and let'em repo the car.
The reasoning for no money down on a lease is in the event of an accident where the car is totalled, you will lose the money that was the "down payment". What's more important is that you obtain gap insurance if it's not included in the lease. That will protect you from what the actual value of the car is vs. what is owed on the lease in case the car is totalled.
I'm not loading up the car, the only thing I want is the elite package and sunroof... everything else (navagation, drivers package,traction control, ect) all of this I give a hoot less about... only looking for two things.. and yes... my parents have leased befor and they never put anymoney down...yet my father still argues the monthly payment to darn near where he wants it int he first place... he never tells em what he wants it to be exactly he just says that there numbers are too high and so on and so forth... and after about a day of haggling he's normally got a rather fair if not good prices...but he's out of town for the week so I decided starting with my uncle woulnt' hurt
I have a 97 Max SE. Has anyone on this board with a 95-99 Max replaced their struts? What was mileage at replacement? I understand that driving conditions, such as continual use over potholed roads, will affect wear rate. Are there other factors beside mileage and use, such as age of auto, that determine when to replace?
Also, how did car behave in ride comfort and handling before and after the replacement? Did you get genuine Nissan replacements or aftermarket brand?
I'm in the market for a Maxima. Anyone have any suggestions as to a good dealer in the Central Florida area? I'm actually in St. Pete (west coast) but will drive some for a deal. My last Max came from Bill Ray Nissan in Longwood, FL and I will contact them again. Unfortunately the sales associate I dealt with has moved on.
Alas, my beloved '02 SE was stolen on Monday and promptly totaled by the thief. Dang those airbags! The thief walked away from the wreck and hasn't been caught.
Bill Ray and Universal (located just north of Kissimmee on 17/92) are probably the best in the Orlando area. You have to work hard at Universal, but you can get a deal.
I have no personal experience at Nissan of Brandon, but I believe most of the dealers in that area price their products aggressively.
I have 153k miles on my 1995 SE on the original struts and there is no noticable difference in the handling or "bounce" from whan the car was new. According to my service manager, on the 4th generation Maxima, the struts can easily last the life of the car under normal driving conditions. I had asked him to do a once over on the car the last time I had it serviced because I was considering selling it to a friend. Struts were not on his short list of items that may go over the next 50-100k miles.
Thanks, I'll be sure to try Universal. Bill Ray Nissan was very easy to deal with two years ago. Agreed to the deal on the phone. Took a total of one hour to test drive the car, sign the papers, etc. No surprises or games played. The price was very good as well.
Yesterday I test drove a SL at Crown Nissan in St. Pete. The salesman was friendly enough, but my guess is the price won't be competitive. They weren't last time. We'll see.
Stopped by a local dealer today. He had 5 or 6 identical (except color) Maxima SLs. The window sticker said 5 speed automatic. When did they switch to the 5 sp from the 4 sp on the SL model? The other Nissan dealer in town has only one SL and it has a 4 sp. My guess it's because the 05 Altima V6 comes with a 5 sp auto.
Habitat. Thanks for response on struts question. Hope you’re enjoying your TL.
It seems that I have read articles on shocks/struts on more than one occasion in car magazines in the past that mention deterioration with miles. Did not save the articles. They said that performance degradation is insidious. It happens so gradually that one adjusts to it and cannot perceive the incrementally small changes day-by-day and month-by-month. I’m not sure how close my 97 Max SE at 158K Mi handles relative to when it was new. There are no visible leaks and a Nissan service manager told me last Fall that struts/shocks were OK. You would think that the manager would be eager to replace these if a customer asks.
We had shocks replaced at approx 150K Mi on an 86 Accord and then drove it to 247K Mi (and had no trouble selling it “used” to someone). They were not leaking at 150K. There was a noticeable improvement in handling after the replacement. Plan to keep the Max for 2 plus years, so I can justify the expense of new shocks/struts if I get better handling. Perhaps shock technology has been substantially improved from 86 Accord to 95-99 generation Maxima.
I didn't fully explore this when I had my vehicle in for service, but I would think there is some way the service tech could check the condition of your struts/shocks. I recall the old bounce test, where they saw how many times the front end would move up and down before settling aftern being bushed all the way down by a couple of lumberjacks. Not very sophisticated.
As an alternative, you might want to try test driving a few other, lower mileage, 95-99 SE's to see how they feel. I did drive a friends 96 GXE and it seemed looser than mine, but I suspected that was because it didn't have the SE suspension.
Replacing struts/shocks due to age in the hopes of getting better handling seems rather risky to me unless you have stonger evidence that they really are worn down and not performing optimally. How much does it cost, by the way??
One symptom of badly worn struts is wheel hop which will result in a very bouncy and unpleasant ride. The strut wear is a direct function of number and severity of compression and extension cycles. If you drive a lot on bumpy roads, your car struts will wear out much faster.
I have never replaced the struts/shocks in any of my three Maximas (92, 97 and 03). I read the warranty last week, and found out that Nissan offers a "lifetime limited warranty" on all OEM struts, whatever that means.
habitat, p100, kennyg5 - Thanks for your input and help on this strut/shock question.
It is hard to remember what our 97 Max SE at 10K mi felt like in 1997 compared to today at 158K mi. I think that I sense slight wheel hop at times - not sure. I will check into "lifetime limited warranty" on OEM struts on my next visit to Nissan dealer for service. I will also ask if there is a test (sophisticated?) that a Nissan Tech can perform to determine "degree" of wear/deterioration. If there is a measurable test, perhaps it can provide data against some type of service limit specifications. I will report back to this board later.
well.. here's not the forum, but i wanted to announce that there's an addition to my family of vehicles....
i just put a deposit on a 99 V6 Mustang Vert to go with my 2000 Maxima GLE. woohooooooo!!! its gonna be my toy for the summer and fall... i can't wait!!
enjoy your maxima's... i have a feeling Bad Max is gonna be neglected just a lil (from me not driving him that much) this summer... sorry boy..
Anyone, I am having problems deciding between getting an 02 Max or an 01 Infiniti I30. I was going to get the Max but I keep hearing that they steal the headlights in NY/ NJ. I live in Philly but my lady lives in NY and I am up there sometimes on business. I test drove the car and loved it. I also drove the I30 and loved it. I can get the Max with 10K less miles than the I30 and a couple thousand less on the price. But the I30 is a more luxurious car and they don't mess with the headlights. I am hearing that the replacements for these headlights can run a couple thousands. That could be the difference in price there.
Maybe I just need to dump my girl and buy the Max. Suggestions??
The Max will have the 3.5 and the I30 the 3.0 liter motor. So if "go juice" is important to you, that Max will walk the I30. I30 will have better sound proofing for less road noise, plus better resale because of the lux brand. Tough call.
I hope Scion makes several models because the one I am thinking of looks like a refrigerator on wheels (sort of like a shrunken full size bus). There is definitely nothing sporty about that one. Especially its 4 cylinder, 1.5 liter, Toyota Corolla size engine.
The TC is a stylish coupe that uses the Camry 2.4 liter, 160hp 4. Other than the unavailability of leather seating, it appears to have everything one could want in a low priced vehicle. It's certainly no Maxima but that's not its intended market.
With many Max owners now shopping for G35, TL or ES 330, getting a Scion is indeed quite an usual move, no matter how "sporty" the Scion TC appears to be.
i am thinking of purchasing a new max 6 spd with only option sunroof. sticker is 28.5 and i think i can get it for around 24.5-25 with current 1000 rebate. anyone have experience with the latest 6 spd max? how is torque steer and quality of the gearbox?? thanks!
Just got back from a dealer who quoted my an out the door price of 32,405 for a Maxima SE with Navigation. He told me invoice was 31,046. The breakdown was:
31,046 931,38 (tax) 367 (fee) 61 (tags)
Any of you out there have any insight as to whether this sounds reasonable or not? I appreciate your help.
The OTD Price referred to above is not including the $1,000 rebate. I was a little suspicious about the offer because it came too easy. It sounds like they should be willing to go below invoice. Does the $1,500 figure you are referring to include the rebate? Thanks for the help.
gopi - Go to Edmunds message board named, Real-World Trade-In Values. Put up a message showing all of the details about the 94 Max that you are thinking of buying and ask your questions. There are knowledgeable people on that board that will help you.
If Nissan is offering a $1000 rebate on the Max, or $3500 on the Pathfinder, etc, then does that mean that if a Pathfinder was going for invoice that I should be able to get a Pathfinder for $3500 UNDER invoice after the rebate? The rebate should be independent of the dealer's cost of the car, so if dealer sells for invoice, thereby breaking even but making $ on destination charges or whatever, the dealer then should give me the car at $3500 under invoice, right???
Yes, you should get the vehicle for invoice, minus the $ 3500 rebate, except that you have pay tax on the rebate. For example, if you buy a hypothetical vehicle at invoice for $ 30,000, you pay your county tax on $ 30,000, and the $ 3500 rebate is then subtracted from the total. If your local county tax is say 6%, this makes the rebate smaller by 6 %, so in reality you are getting a net rebate of $ 3290, not $ 3,500. Dealer incentives are not taxed, so you are better off with hefty dealer incentives from the manuafacturer, and no rebates.
This is a follow up my Maxima stalling issue that I posted a couple of years ago. A person emailed me back a solution that seemed to work for him. After reading his reply, it could work. So here it is:
"I did get a solution. I did alot of research on the internet and I know someone that works on cars. He and all the internet posts agreed. The first, most likely and easiest thing to do is to clean the throttle body. He came by my house friday evening to do this, and I have now (Tuesday) driven enough to know that the problem is solved. He also cleaned the fuel lines and injectors at the same time. He used a can of fluid called K44 and another can that might have been the same thing to dump in the gas tank.
The throttle body was cleaned by removing a large hose and dabbing K44 on a rag and a toothbrush wiping and brushing inside the throttle body to give the throttle body a thorough cleaning. Then we started the engine, removed a very small hose and he had a tool that punches a small hole in the bottom of the can and sucks the fluid through an attached hose into the fuel intake while the engine is running until the can was empty. I say all this just to give you an idea what he did. I would definitely recommend having it done by a professional. One post said the Nissan dealership wanted $195 to do this. He said his service station charges about $100. The fluids are expensive and hard to find according to him, plus the little tool with the hose you would need, and the know how.
The second, more expensive and less likely solution is to replace the Mass Air Flow sensor. My mechanic agreed that this would be the next thing to try after cleaning the throttle body.
The third thing I found on the message boards on the internet was to reprogram the ECU. My mechanic said that sounded wrong and he would never recommend that for this type of problem.
There was not alot of data out there for this problem so I am very happy it is fixed with a minimum expense and effort."
I think most states tax rebates because this represents additional source of revenue. To come to think of it, they make millions on this taxation. There are states that charge a full sales tax on a new car purchase price, even if you have a trade in. Most states tax only the difference.
Some customers are upset when they have to pay taxes on rebates because they think that dealers cheat them. Car dealers do not set the rules - the states do.
Joenissan, thanks for the info on Maxima transmission behavior. Do you know, by chance, of other cars that behave this way (converter lockup retained on lift off)? What about Sentra/Altima?
I know that the Chevy Camaro does (at least a '98 model), but other GM cars do not. Neither do Chrysler Sebring, Mazda 626, Toyota Camry V6, Honda Accord V6, Fords, etc.
Hi all, I'm looking for an '00 - '01 Maxima with side impact air bags. I've been looking at GXE, but these generally don't have the side airbags. If I start looking at SE or GLE, what are my chances of finding side bags installed? Also what do they look like?
There's lots of these Maximas on the used market right now. I shouldn't have to settle, I figure. I've been to a couple of dealers, but they aren't very helpful with this kind of thing.
They are located in the outside portion of the driver's and passengers (front only) seats. Mine have a tag sewn on that outside side edge of each of the seats at the seam that says "SRS AIRBAG".
Now I suppose someone could fake a tag and sew it on but that would be quite a bit of work for minimal resale value.
I believe that only the SE and GLE models were available with this option which is why you wont's find it on a GXE.
Comments
Suggestion: get on www.nissanusa.com and use the search function. You can search the entire state of Ohio for Maxima inventory at various Nissan dealers. I bet you will find one you are looking for in Ohio. Then you can go to that dealer and negotiate the best deal.
As I see it you are already making a mistake. Buying a car with every possible option is not the best way to go when buying or leasing. This vehicle will depreciate disproportionally to say, a base Maxima SL. The Elite package will return only small fraction of the original value on investment.
Also, how did car behave in ride comfort and handling before and after the replacement? Did you get genuine Nissan replacements or aftermarket brand?
Thank you for any help.
Alas, my beloved '02 SE was stolen on Monday and promptly totaled by the thief. Dang those airbags! The thief walked away from the wreck and hasn't been caught.
Lindsey
I have no personal experience at Nissan of Brandon, but I believe most of the dealers in that area price their products aggressively.
What makes you think you may need new ones?
Yesterday I test drove a SL at Crown Nissan in St. Pete. The salesman was friendly enough, but my guess is the price won't be competitive. They weren't last time. We'll see.
Lindsey
but especially leasing. make your 1st payment, sign the papers, and keep your money in the bank.
the other plus, is that if you cant make a payment, you take it out of the money you DIDNT put down.
It seems that I have read articles on shocks/struts on more than one occasion in car magazines in the past that mention deterioration with miles. Did not save the articles. They said that performance degradation is insidious. It happens so gradually that one adjusts to it and cannot perceive the incrementally small changes day-by-day and month-by-month. I’m not sure how close my 97 Max SE at 158K Mi handles relative to when it was new. There are no visible leaks and a Nissan service manager told me last Fall that struts/shocks were OK. You would think that the manager would be eager to replace these if a customer asks.
We had shocks replaced at approx 150K Mi on an 86 Accord and then drove it to 247K Mi (and had no trouble selling it “used” to someone). They were not leaking at 150K. There was a noticeable improvement in handling after the replacement. Plan to keep the Max for 2 plus years, so I can justify the expense of new shocks/struts if I get better handling. Perhaps shock technology has been substantially improved from 86 Accord to 95-99 generation Maxima.
As an alternative, you might want to try test driving a few other, lower mileage, 95-99 SE's to see how they feel. I did drive a friends 96 GXE and it seemed looser than mine, but I suspected that was because it didn't have the SE suspension.
Replacing struts/shocks due to age in the hopes of getting better handling seems rather risky to me unless you have stonger evidence that they really are worn down and not performing optimally. How much does it cost, by the way??
It is hard to remember what our 97 Max SE at 10K mi felt like in 1997 compared to today at 158K mi. I think that I sense slight wheel hop at times - not sure. I will check into "lifetime limited warranty" on OEM struts on my next visit to Nissan dealer for service. I will also ask if there is a test (sophisticated?) that a Nissan Tech can perform to determine "degree" of wear/deterioration. If there is a measurable test, perhaps it can provide data against some type of service limit specifications. I will report back to this board later.
Thanks again.
i just put a deposit on a 99 V6 Mustang Vert to go with my 2000 Maxima GLE. woohooooooo!!! its gonna be my toy for the summer and fall... i can't wait!!
enjoy your maxima's... i have a feeling Bad Max is gonna be neglected just a lil (from me not driving him that much) this summer... sorry boy..
I am having problems deciding between getting an 02 Max or an 01 Infiniti I30. I was going to get the Max but I keep hearing that they steal the headlights in NY/ NJ. I live in Philly but my lady lives in NY and I am up there sometimes on business. I test drove the car and loved it. I also drove the I30 and loved it. I can get the Max with 10K less miles than the I30 and a couple thousand less on the price. But the I30 is a more luxurious car and they don't mess with the headlights. I am hearing that the replacements for these headlights can run a couple thousands. That could be the difference in price there.
Maybe I just need to dump my girl and buy the Max.
Never had a real problem with the Max in 3 years I owned it, just decided to try something new.
Good luck with your rides.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
i would like to know how 94 maxima runs above 100k miles good
to buy or not.
bye
31,046
931,38 (tax)
367 (fee)
61 (tags)
Any of you out there have any insight as to whether this sounds reasonable or not? I appreciate your help.
there is a danger in assuming that. some dealers will give you a boot right out the door.
i would take a small issue with $400+ of fees, but other than that, dont look a gift horse in the mouth.
"I did get a solution. I did alot of research on the internet and I know
someone that works on cars. He and all the internet posts agreed. The
first, most likely and easiest thing to do is to clean the throttle body.
He came by my house friday evening to do this, and I have now (Tuesday)
driven enough to know that the problem is solved. He also cleaned the fuel
lines and injectors at the same time. He used a can of fluid called K44 and
another can that might have been the same thing to dump in the gas tank.
The throttle body was cleaned by removing a large hose and dabbing K44 on a
rag and a toothbrush wiping and brushing inside the throttle body to give
the throttle body a thorough cleaning. Then we started the engine, removed
a very small hose and he had a tool that punches a small hole in the bottom
of the can and sucks the fluid through an attached hose into the fuel intake
while the engine is running until the can was empty. I say all this just to
give you an idea what he did. I would definitely recommend having it done
by a professional. One post said the Nissan dealership wanted $195 to do
this. He said his service station charges about $100. The fluids are
expensive and hard to find according to him, plus the little tool with the
hose you would need, and the know how.
The second, more expensive and less likely solution is to replace the Mass
Air Flow sensor. My mechanic agreed that this would be the next thing to
try after cleaning the throttle body.
The third thing I found on the message boards on the internet was to
reprogram the ECU. My mechanic said that sounded wrong and he would never
recommend that for this type of problem.
There was not alot of data out there for this problem so I am very happy it
is fixed with a minimum expense and effort."
Some customers are upset when they have to pay taxes on rebates because they think that dealers cheat them. Car dealers do not set the rules - the states do.
Do you know, by chance, of other cars that behave this way
(converter lockup retained on lift off)? What about Sentra/Altima?
I know that the Chevy Camaro does (at least a '98 model), but
other GM cars do not. Neither do Chrysler Sebring, Mazda
626, Toyota Camry V6, Honda Accord V6, Fords, etc.
There's lots of these Maximas on the used market right now. I shouldn't have to settle, I figure. I've been to a couple of dealers, but they aren't very helpful with this kind of thing.
Now I suppose someone could fake a tag and sew it on but that would be quite a bit of work for minimal resale value.
I believe that only the SE and GLE models were available with this option which is why you wont's find it on a GXE.