I HAVE A 2005 MAXIMA SL MY FIRST FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CAR. I HAD A EXPLORER BEFORE THIS. TODAY WAS THE FIRST DAY I DROVE IT IN SNOW I GOT STUCK IN SNOW IT WOULD NOT BACK OUT BUT WOULD GO FORWARD IN THE SAME SNOW ALSO WHEN I WOULD MAKE A TURN GOING SLOW THE REAR END WOULD SLIDE AROUND NOT UNDER CONTROL AM I EXPECTING TOO MUCH WITH THIS CAR OR IS THERE SOMETHING WRONG TOM
Buy some snow tires on separate wheels. The stockers on Maximas are not meant for snow. I recommend Dunlop Wintersport M3 tires. Huge difference, period.
I did considerable research, and Tirerack.com was the best deal, for me anyway. That is if you can either put them on yourself, or get them shipped directly to a garage nearby and pay them a small fee. If they're already mounted on wheels, they just charge like $20. Mine came perfectly balanced and I had a coupon for free tire rotation at Precision Tune. Was still like $700 though, they're spendy but well worth it. Night and day difference, should get 3 winters on them for sure. I'm in MN.
question about snow tire usage.. do you get them mounted towards the winter, like in november timeframe and drive on them till march? i've never had snow tires so not sure if they're good to be driven long distances..
Howdy, still prowling the Maxima board ;-) The Dunlop Wintersport M3 snow tires are supposed to be good to leave on from late Nov or early Dec til March and get at least 3 winters on them if you put on the average 5k miles or so. They're supposed to wear much better than Blizzaks. They supposedly have a harder compound underneath that will sacrifice some snow capability for greater longevity. They're not as good on ice but real good in snow. They disperse the snow with tread pattern versus being really really soft. They're not that loud either, quieter than the Dunlop SPA2 summer tires I took off the car, which I will NOT be buying again. Those sucked, wore out in 36K miles and were loud and crappy in winter after the first year. These Wintersport tires are smooth as silk all day long at 75-80mph (H rated I think??), I haven't taken them faster yet and won't, except for maybe a quick pass. After getting them, I've been noticing them a lot on all the expensive cars here at work, seen them on an M3, Mustang Cobra, Nissan 350Z, WRX, plus others. Thus far I cannot recommend them enough, hasn't snowed a ton here though this year. I have a newborn now though that rides in back so I sprung the ging for the peace of mind. Take care.
you didn't like the dunlop Sport A2's huh? I like mine so far at about 12k miles.. i liked them so much, i recommended someone at work to get them... i figure i'll give Kumho a shot after these tires wear out... its funny cause the A2's get awesome ratings on Tirerack.com
Yeah, I just don't really care for them. They wore out fast, got really loud especially on certain pavements, and didn't corner as well as the stock Toyo Proxes. The Toyos wore out really fast too, but at least they cornered like mad. Both totally stunk in the winter after the first year. Not sure what I'll try this time around since having the snows now, probably Kumho or something like that as well. I really want something quiet this time, tired of the road noise, but I don't want to spend the huge $ on Michelins, even though they're the best. And since I already have stock rims to put the tires on, I'll go to Discount Tire instead of Tirerack. Almost as cheap with free lifetime rotate and balance. Only used Tirerack for the snows cuz it was best deal when buying rims w/tires. I compared local ma and pa tire shops, Goodyear store, Firestone store, etc and NONE could come even close to Discount Tire and Tirerack. I'm talking hundred dollars difference. Just my .02 as usual.
I've been reading a lot of reviews of the Maxima on the web lately, and most of them downrate the car for noticeable torque steer under hard acceleration. Would the optional VDC, or the traction control included with the VDC, cure this problem? Most of the reviews will say that VDC is available, but don't say if the test car had it.
The only exception may be this review of the Australian version (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2110/article.html), which says that the VDC/traction control system stops inside, front wheel spin from "getting too ugly" on tight corners. (Is the Australian version bland-looking, or what?)
VDC is really designed to function more a stability control and has little effect on the torque steer effect.
IMO, the torgue steer isn't noticeable unless your driving with the pedal all the way down.
I'd suggest you take an actual test drive and see if you think it'll affect your decision on purchasing the car.
While the internet is great for information, you really have to careful about reaching any conclusions without testing the vehicles your interested in first hand.
If it does, the Honda Accord is a very nice car too.........
I did test drive it, and didn't notice any torque steer, but it was one of the usual not-too-far and not-too-fast test drives. I will see if the salesman can arrange for a longer test drive with a demo.
About tires - I own an '01 SE, 225 17 50s. The original tires wore out before 30K and were dangerous well before that in the rain - Dunlops I think. I went top shelf for the replacements - Michalin Pilot all season. Yes, expensive but they are worth the $900+ that I paid. They are wearing okay with 17,000 miles that I've put on so far. These tires are a VAST improvment over the Dunlops. Depending on my $$ situation when these wear out, (hopwefully over 35K), I would be tempted to purchase again. Great in rain and good in snow.
My front passenger side speakers are intermittent. They will cut out except, the A pillar speaker will stay on, very low. If I adjust fade / balance, system sounds okay but I want it corrected. Again, this is an intermittent problem. Audio shop guy says may be the "coil" in the speaker. Wants $270 to replace all 4 front speakers - says that he has to do the whole set but doesn't seem sure that is the problem. I dont think so.
Any thoughts to help me out here?
By the way, this is the standard system, not the Bose.
I concur with the pilots. Best tire i have ever had. If I even get 30K out of them I'll be happy. WHy owuld anyone sacrifice getting cheap rubber? Well worth the cost. I'll be due for tires probably early summer, Pilots once again.
Who was pushing the "not too far and not too fast"? I haven't had a test drive like that in 10 years, especially with all the horsepower wars. Every dealer I've been to for test drives is encouraging me to "see what it'll do" which is why I'd never buy a demo, but that's another topic.
In twenty-plus years, those are the only kinds of test drives I've ever had. In the recent Maxima road test, the salesman had me enter an interstate, but get off at the next exit -- one of those arrangements where the interchanges are so close to each other that the entrance lane turns into the exit lane. How can I go full throttle knowing I have to get off?
However, after the initial test drives, I've usually been successful in persuading dealers to get me demos for longer drives. That's when I really get to know the car. Most recently, I tried out a new Volvo V70 wagon that way, a model which I was seriously considering. It had about 5 miles on the odometer, and they gave it to me with the plastic sheeting still all over it. (It was kind of embarrassing to drive it that way, so it encouraged me to keep the miles down.) After 40 miles, I realized that the ride and engine vibration weren't for me. And the left footrest was too close, causing my left leg to get crampy. During the initial test drive, I didn't experience any of that, mostly because we just sat at stop lights in suburban chain-store hell.
In general, it's been my experience that a vehicle with the plastic covering on it hasn't had the PDI (pre delivery inspection).
Likely, as a result, it probably didn't even have the correct air pressure in the tires, let alone any other tweaking necessary after initial assembly at the factory.
Any dealer who is giving you one of those to drive is really rolling the dice that it was perfectly put together and needs no tweaking.
I think the salesman told me it had been prepped. It even had side mirrors on it. But no amount of prepping would have concealed the car's flaws.
I've arranged with the same salesman who took me on the ride around the block for a longer drive this Saturday with a Maxima SL. An hour or two, I was told. So I ought to know then whether I still like the car. Why should this dealer trust me? Because they've already extracted thousands of dollars of my money in repairing my aging Camry. (Which I'm keeping, so the gravy train will continue.)
I bought this brand new nissan maxima about 4 months ago of power nissan at elmonte. After driving 4000 miles, I just noticed that the hood and the trunk lid were out of alignment. The hood looked pretty bad if you are a detailed person. I took the car for a fix to the dealer service center, and one of their specialist told me that the car MIGHT have had an accident before. I was very angry because there was no way the car had an accident. Anyway they told me that they would have nissan to inspect the car if it has been in an accident. After 4 days they did not contact me at all. When I asked them, they told me to speak to a person who I have already contacted but never return my call. I went to 3 bodyshop to confirm this. 3 of them all aggreed that the back bumper had been repainted, but whoever did it, they did not do a good job. 2 of bodyshop also suspected that front bumper might also repainted or replaced. Please if anybody has been situation like this, what should I do ? What is my right ? Is it possible for me to pursue a lawsuit?
I managed to squeak 40K miles out of the original equipment Bridgestone tires on my 02 Max SE. When it came time to replace them, I narrowed my choices down to Michelins and Kumhos. Decided in the end to go with the Kumhos, mainly due to cost considerations (Kumhos were almost half the cost of the Michelins). Overall I have been happy with the Kumhos and currently have 20K miles on them.
If you were sold a car as new that wasn't, you have a potential case under your state's consumer fraud statute, and perhaps one under a lemon law statute, too. The consumer fraud statute probably entitles you to three times the amount of your actual damages, if you are successful. There are law firms that specialize in this sort of thing that ought to make the process easier. But they will cost you some of your settlement. Before you make the decision on whether to hire a lawyer, do some Internet research first to see if you can (or want to) handle it yourself. I would go to your state's web site, www.state.XX.us (where XX is your state's two-character postal abbreviation), click on the link to the link of state agencies, and navigate to the attorney general. You might get some helpful tips there.
Question: how financially healthy is the dealer? Is it on its last legs (which might explain why it did such a thing)? If it files for bankruptcy, you might be SOL.
It is a big dealer. I dont think they were going into bankruptcy. When I bought the car, It was the last 04 maxima they had. The sales person told me he got the car out of nissan dealer from culver city therefore it had 50 miles in it. The out of hood alignment may be the cause of why it had not been sold. I looked the car by its overall, and I was not paying attention to the detail, plus when I bought the car It was almost dark. But who would have thought the car had been damaged because it is new according to dealer. I was buying a new car because I did not want to be worry anything about the car i was purchasing.
I have contacted the state of california attorney general still waiting for the reply. Thank's for your suggestion.
Just make sure you keep records of everything: who you talked to (especially the person at the dealer who suggested it had been in an accident), when you talked to them, etc.
I took a new SL for an extended test drive yesterday. I liked the car, but for $30K I don't think I'll be buying one.
In the plus column: the driver's seat was very comfortable. It has a lumbar support, but unlike some cars, the bolstering is over a fairly wide area and not at a certain point, so you don't feel like you're being stuck by some engineer who thought it would be good for you. Also, gobs of power. Blowing past the Audi A4 at 100 was especially nice. Torque steer was evident only once, when accelerating quickly from a stop at a toll booth. (Another car was emerging at the same time and I wanted to pull ahead of him.) It was not at all present in the passing runs. The fold-down rear seat is handy, although the release button shown in the owner's manual has been replaced by a pull in the trunk.
In the minus column: the ride is too jittery. The minor flaws in the pavement you see up ahead will be felt by your butt very soon. It wasn't uncomfortable, but the Altima heritage was obvious here. The left footrest is too vertical and not comfortable. And I was surprised by the amount of engine and road noise. The engine could even be heard in fifth gear at cruising speed. The noise is moderate, not loud, but for this price, it should be less prominent.
Fuel consumption was not good. For the most part, I kept the speed to 80, but used a quarter tank in about 70 miles. Some of that was because of my speed runs and because the car was not broken in. My Camry 4 will get about 32 MPG at a constant 80. Even broken in, I doubt the Maxima would even get in the high twenties there.
The controls and displays are confusing. I wanted to adjust the fade and balance on the radio and couldn't figure it out while driving. In time, I would have learned how, but old-fashioned knobs would have been better. Unfortunately, flashy but obtuse display screens seem to be where the industry is headed.
The car had two rattles coming from the top of the dashboard. I don't know if that indicates a general problem with build quality, but according to JD Power, which rates defects in the first 90 days, the '04 Maxima was nothing special.
In spite of the negatives, I did have fun driving the car. I will keep it in mind, but will keep looking, also.
I haven't driven a new one so I can't speak to most of your issues. But in regards to gas mileage, no V6 is going to get similar mileage to a 4 cylinder engine, so that's rather an unfair comparison. If you want really good mileage stick with a 4. That being said, my '01 Maxima gets better gas mileage so far than my other V6, a Mazda6. Both are rated 19-26 mpg but the Max is at the high end of that range pretty consistently.
No, I would never expect a 6 to get the mileage of a 4, although judging by the EPA ratings, some 4's don't do that well, either. (Last I checked, the Mazda 6 4 cylinder didn't even reach 30 MPG on the highway.) But I think it would be fair to expect a V6 to get in the high 20's on the highway, and judging from my experience and other posts here in Edmunds, I have my doubts that the current Maxima is going to get there.
I do not agree with your comments. I am one the proud current owner of 2004 Maxima SL and driven 8000 miles in last 6 months. I am getting consistent millage 21-23 mpg in city and 28-30 mpg in highway. I do not see any rattles, any issues with my maxima other than the tires are not balanced correctly. After couple of attempts, I can able to balance the tires from Discount Tires(Indianapolis). Now I am experiencing the study drive with out any road or engine noise or torque sheer.
This vehicle can handles any road conditions with fantastic braking power.
Please do not compare Maxima (Worlds best V6) with Camry (one of the V4). Compare Apples to Apples. The Price of $30,000 ok for what you are getting when compared to same class of vehicles.
Thanks for one of the posting in this forum that explained in detail how to balance this vehicle tires using GPS 9700 machine.
I just purchased an '05 Maxima SE, and I noticed the manual was a little light on describing proper break-in procedure. I'm interested in driving this car as close to 200k as possible, so any advice on a) the best gas to use, and b) detailed break-in, I'd appreciate it.
Going for 200k in a Max isn't unreasonable. My .02 would be to always run premium gas, change your oil for first time at 1k miles, then 3 to 5k after that depending on driving conditions, use synthetic oil if changing every 5K+, do your tranny flushes and radiator flushes every 36-40k, run a bottle of injector cleaner every oil change, change plugs every 75k, flush power steering every 60k, not sure on the timing chain, but besides that it's just fixing things as they break. The manual may show different intervals on services, these are just my own personal guidelines. But I've got 77K on my 2000 Max with not many issues, had alternator and 02 sensor failures. Haven't even had to do brake pads yet.
I thought I would save some money, so last year I started to put regular 87 octane gas in my 2000 Maxima SE. Well, at first I didn't notice. But as time went on I started to here a pinging sound when I would accelerate on the freeway.It got worse. So I asked a few friends about it.They told me it was the 87 octane gas.They were correct.I have been putting in 93 octane for a couple of weeks now and all the pinging noise is gone.No doubt about it you must stay with high octane gas in the Maxima.
Pinging can also be caused by a failed EGR valve. Check the valve diaphragm with a vacuum pump.
Use of 93 octane will also improve performance, because the engine computer can advance ignition timing further than with lower octane fuel, before pinging occurs.
Thanks for the helpful tips, guys. Another quick question: can using a gas with too much octane be harmful to the maxima? I know certain cars (like the 4cyl Accords) are built to run well on 87, and 91 octane will actually shorten engine life. Is this the case at all with the Maxima? I have access to discounted 89 octane gas (I can get it for about .35 less per gallon than retail), but if 91 will actually maximize engine life, I'm all for it.
I have an 04 Max SE w/approx 20k on the stock Eagle RSA tires (245/45/18). I have dedicated snows on the car from Dec to Mar. Upon mounting my snows this year, I noticed several deep cracks spanning the circumference of the inner tire of the stock Goodyear tire. Upon further inspection I noticed smaller cracks, in similar locations, on the inside wall of the other tires. Following a wake-up call to the Goodyear corporate office on this issue, I received full credit for the tires after inspection by local GY dealer. I'm not replacing with RSAs, rather, upgraded and paid the $ difference for Eagle F1s. I checked the NHTSA website and found only 1 complaint on this issue (my complaint makes 2). Anyone else have similar problems ??
Anyone have experience with Satellite radio in a 2005 Maxima? Looking for details on how it works with the factory stereo (quality, ease of use, etc) and any discussion of XM vs Sirius in terms of sound quality.
Thanks for your question. I am looking for the question on the 3.5l engine with the 4-speed auto transmission. It really does not matter what year it is as long as it is the 3.5l engine, which is relatively new. Yes, I do mean the top gear at exactly 70 mph.
I test drove a Maxima, and I was surprised how little that back window is. I couldn't see anything in the back at all - you practically just have to hope there is nothing behind you when you back up.
I hit a curb while trying to turn in the snow last week. Maybe 10 MPH. I seemed to hit with the wheel flush to the curb as I was part way into the turn, (passenger front wheel). The wheel is not bent but the steering wheel now seems a few degrees to the left while driving straight. The car does not wander much at all if I let go of the wheel and there is no shaking. Could it be that I knocked out the alignment a little? Is there a camber adjustment? Car seems fine but it's like a crooked picture on the wall, having the steering wheel a little off and I want it fixed. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your responses.
There really is no recommended interval for manual transmission oil change in a Maxima used for normal driving (no severe service). I changed the manual tranmsission oil first time in my 98 SE at about 75K miles. I used Redline synthetic MTU-90 oil, specially formulated for manual tranmisssions and safe for the synchronizers. Nissan requires GL-4 gear oils only in their manual gearboxes, so do not use regular GL-5 gear oil. GL-5 oils have sulphur compounds that are there as extrememe pressure additives, and may be harmful to transmission synchros. GL-4 gear oils are somewhat hard to find. NAPA sells mineral (nonsyntehtic ) GL-4 gear oil. Readline MTU-90 is also gl-4 type oil.
I would not change the oil at 30K miles. Waste of money IMHO. You can do more harm by using wrong oil than by not changing it. I had cars with manual transmissions with more than 100K miles and never changed the gear oil . Never any problems.
Front wheels on a Maxima have adjustable toe, camber, and caster. If your camber or caster changed substantially after the impact, the car would be pulling or drifting when you let go of the steering wheel. The fact that it does not pull and that the steering wheel is off by several degrees tells me that your toe setting has been changed. You could have bent the strut bracket or the tie rod. Have those checked for any damage. Hopefully you did not damage the steering rack. Improper toe setting does not cause pulling, but will cause tire scrubbing on the edges.
The rear wheels have toe and camber adjustments only.
The original tires (I believe they are Bridgestone Potenzas) on my car finally need to be replaced (60,000 miles on them). I'm seriously considering getting the same ones seeing as they lasted so long for me, but I have no problems going down to an "H" speed rating. Anyone recommendations for a good tire? Thanks.
Wow! Impressive that you managed to get 60K out of the stock tires, V Rated tires no less. I thought I was doing good to get 40K out of mine on my 02 SE. I replaced the Bridgestones with Kumho ECSTA KH11 tires (V rated). I have had them on for about 23K miles. They have better grip then the Bridgestones but I am not sure they will last as long. Decided to give them a try because of the lower price ($126.99/Tire) compared to a new set of Bridgestones or Michelins. The Kumhos are a little more noisy on some road services than the Bridgestones, but overall I am happy with them.
Anybody use Yokohama Avid V4s tires on their Maximas? I have a 2000SE that's needs new shoes. I have snows on now, Dunlop Wintersport M3s, and I HIGHLY recommend those. My summer tires were Dunlop SP A2s and I don't want them again, wasn't impressed. Now looking at Avids. Any input???
Comments
question about snow tire usage.. do you get them mounted towards the winter, like in november timeframe and drive on them till march? i've never had snow tires so not sure if they're good to be driven long distances..
thanks, kyle
The only exception may be this review of the Australian version (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2110/article.html), which says that the VDC/traction control system stops inside, front wheel spin from "getting too ugly" on tight corners. (Is the Australian version bland-looking, or what?)
IMO, the torgue steer isn't noticeable unless your driving with the pedal all the way down.
I'd suggest you take an actual test drive and see if you think it'll affect your decision on purchasing the car.
While the internet is great for information, you really have to careful about reaching any conclusions without testing the vehicles your interested in first hand.
If it does, the Honda Accord is a very nice car too.........
Best of luck
My front passenger side speakers are intermittent. They will cut out except, the A pillar speaker will stay on, very low. If I adjust fade / balance, system sounds okay but I want it corrected. Again, this is an intermittent problem. Audio shop guy says may be the "coil" in the speaker. Wants $270 to replace all 4 front speakers - says that he has to do the whole set but doesn't seem sure that is the problem. I dont think so.
Any thoughts to help me out here?
By the way, this is the standard system, not the Bose.
Thanks in advance.
However, after the initial test drives, I've usually been successful in persuading dealers to get me demos for longer drives. That's when I really get to know the car. Most recently, I tried out a new Volvo V70 wagon that way, a model which I was seriously considering. It had about 5 miles on the odometer, and they gave it to me with the plastic sheeting still all over it. (It was kind of embarrassing to drive it that way, so it encouraged me to keep the miles down.) After 40 miles, I realized that the ride and engine vibration weren't for me. And the left footrest was too close, causing my left leg to get crampy. During the initial test drive, I didn't experience any of that, mostly because we just sat at stop lights in suburban chain-store hell.
Likely, as a result, it probably didn't even have the correct air pressure in the tires, let alone any other tweaking necessary after initial assembly at the factory.
Any dealer who is giving you one of those to drive is really rolling the dice that it was perfectly put together and needs no tweaking.
I've arranged with the same salesman who took me on the ride around the block for a longer drive this Saturday with a Maxima SL. An hour or two, I was told. So I ought to know then whether I still like the car. Why should this dealer trust me? Because they've already extracted thousands of dollars of my money in repairing my aging Camry. (Which I'm keeping, so the gravy train will continue.)
If you were sold a car as new that wasn't, you have a potential case under your state's consumer fraud statute, and perhaps one under a lemon law statute, too. The consumer fraud statute probably entitles you to three times the amount of your actual damages, if you are successful. There are law firms that specialize in this sort of thing that ought to make the process easier. But they will cost you some of your settlement. Before you make the decision on whether to hire a lawyer, do some Internet research first to see if you can (or want to) handle it yourself. I would go to your state's web site, www.state.XX.us (where XX is your state's two-character postal abbreviation), click on the link to the link of state agencies, and navigate to the attorney general. You might get some helpful tips there.
Question: how financially healthy is the dealer? Is it on its last legs (which might explain why it did such a thing)? If it files for bankruptcy, you might be SOL.
It is a big dealer. I dont think they were going into bankruptcy. When I bought the car, It was the last 04 maxima they had. The sales person told me he got the car out of nissan dealer from culver city therefore it had 50 miles in it. The out of hood alignment may be the cause of why it had not been sold. I looked the car by its overall, and I was not paying attention to the detail, plus when I bought the car It was almost dark. But who would have thought the car had been damaged because it is new according to dealer. I was buying a new car because I did not want to be worry anything about the car i was purchasing.
I have contacted the state of california attorney general still waiting for the reply. Thank's for your suggestion.
Just make sure you keep records of everything: who you talked to (especially the person at the dealer who suggested it had been in an accident), when you talked to them, etc.
Good luck!
In the plus column: the driver's seat was very comfortable. It has a lumbar support, but unlike some cars, the bolstering is over a fairly wide area and not at a certain point, so you don't feel like you're being stuck by some engineer who thought it would be good for you. Also, gobs of power. Blowing past the Audi A4 at 100 was especially nice. Torque steer was evident only once, when accelerating quickly from a stop at a toll booth. (Another car was emerging at the same time and I wanted to pull ahead of him.) It was not at all present in the passing runs. The fold-down rear seat is handy, although the release button shown in the owner's manual has been replaced by a pull in the trunk.
In the minus column: the ride is too jittery. The minor flaws in the pavement you see up ahead will be felt by your butt very soon. It wasn't uncomfortable, but the Altima heritage was obvious here. The left footrest is too vertical and not comfortable. And I was surprised by the amount of engine and road noise. The engine could even be heard in fifth gear at cruising speed. The noise is moderate, not loud, but for this price, it should be less prominent.
Fuel consumption was not good. For the most part, I kept the speed to 80, but used a quarter tank in about 70 miles. Some of that was because of my speed runs and because the car was not broken in. My Camry 4 will get about 32 MPG at a constant 80. Even broken in, I doubt the Maxima would even get in the high twenties there.
The controls and displays are confusing. I wanted to adjust the fade and balance on the radio and couldn't figure it out while driving. In time, I would have learned how, but old-fashioned knobs would have been better. Unfortunately, flashy but obtuse display screens seem to be where the industry is headed.
The car had two rattles coming from the top of the dashboard. I don't know if that indicates a general problem with build quality, but according to JD Power, which rates defects in the first 90 days, the '04 Maxima was nothing special.
In spite of the negatives, I did have fun driving the car. I will keep it in mind, but will keep looking, also.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
This vehicle can handles any road conditions with fantastic braking power.
Please do not compare Maxima (Worlds best V6) with Camry (one of the V4). Compare Apples to Apples. The Price of $30,000 ok for what you are getting when compared to same class of vehicles.
Thanks for one of the posting in this forum that explained in detail how to balance this vehicle tires using GPS 9700 machine.
TIA!
Use of 93 octane will also improve performance, because the engine computer can advance ignition timing further than with lower octane fuel, before pinging occurs.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
Manual tranmsision or automatic?
If automatic, 4 speed or five speed?
I assume you mean RPM in TOP gear at 70 MPH
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your responses.
I would not change the oil at 30K miles. Waste of money IMHO. You can do more harm by using wrong oil than by not changing it. I had cars with manual transmissions with more than 100K miles and never changed the gear oil . Never any problems.
The rear wheels have toe and camber adjustments only.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT