Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Maxima



  • bartalk2bartalk2 Posts: 326
    That figure is a little high, but not much. Check the blue book. Check the ads in the Sunday paper. What kind of warranty is he offering you? I have a '97 Max SE with 57,000 miles that I will probably try to sell on my own for about that or a little less. It's mint. These cars run forever. I have had not one problem in 57,000 miles, and at 50,000 miles my mechanic said the front brakes are only about 55% worn, rear brakes even less. Original brakes.
  • henridhenrid Posts: 2
    (I also posted this on the Maxima Problems forum)

    I'm shopping for a used car and $7000 is the absolute limit. I am finding Maximas, 96 or 97, in that price range but they are pretty high mileage-70,000-125,000 is what I've seen. Even the highest mileage cars drove well with no apparent problems and all the electric windows and locks, etc, still working.

    I'd like to hear from long time Maxima drivers. Would I be courting problems to buy such a high mileage car? What should I look out for?

    I am trying to read this forum from the beginning message, to get a feel for typical problems, but I need to act soon so I ask for a little help here.

    In reply to Ramax above, I've seen cars like that in the $7500 range in Dade & Broward counties, S Florida.
  • aftyafty Posts: 499
    My parents have a '95 Maxima GLE with around 160k miles. They are having a few minor electrical problems: the radio display doesn't work and the clock doesn't work. They also recently had to replace the oxygen sensor. Other than those issues, the car has run well with only normal maintenance (oil & filter, tires, brake pads, etc.).
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    That is a very good showing for a car with that much mileage on it. A couple people that I work with have Maximas. One had 120k on it when it was traded, the other one had 150K on it when the guy left the company. Both were still running like new.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    I have a 1995 Maxima SE 5 speed with 128,900 miles that I purchased new in September 1994. Here is a summary of my experiences from my milage log:

    Original front brakes lasted 93,500 miles.
    Original rear brakes lasted 123,700 miles.
    Original clutch is fine, with no indication of wear.
    Original tires lasted 59,600 miles; second set 52,200 miles (15" HR 60 215)
    Original battery lasted 7.5 years/125,000 miles.

    Repairs other than routine maintenance / oil changes:
    first 110,000 miles: nothing other than an occasional headlight/for light bulb for under $10 a pop.
    111,300 miles: airbag warning light reset - $75.00
    123,500 miles: replace engine coolant temp gauge - $192.46
    125,200 miles: replace cruise control dash switch - $48.50

    Gas milage since new: 24.04 mpg.
    Total maitenance/repair costs (including all the above) since new: $5,288.14 (4.1 cents/mile)
    Maintenance/repair costs since 75,000 miles: $2,190.36 (4.1 cents per mile)

    That's it. There have been no other non-routine maintenance or repairs required. The car runs excellent and has not lost a tick as far as engine performance or acceleration. The suspension system shows no sign of wear - the car steers and handles as well as new. I have changed the oil and filter every 4,000 +/- miles and taken it to the dealer for service every 7,500 miles for the first 5 years, every 15,000 miles for the last 3. This is the most trouble free, "solid" car I have owned, including several Toyota's, Acuras and Hondas.

    Note: the 90,000 and 120,000 mile services were more expensive than the 30,000 and 60,000, due to additional requirements such as front end allignment at 120k, etc. However, because I eliminated the 7,500 mile sevices after 82,500, the cost per mile has remained constant. I eliminated the 7,500 miles services when I was putting 20k highway miles per year on the car, but I continued to change the oil/filter every 4k miles.

    My experience may be better than average. I would estimate that 80% of the milage is "highway". And I have been pretty meticulous in maintenance and care.

    I suggest you buy from an individual or dealer that can document their maintenance history. It's a good car, if it has been properly cared for.
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Posts: 215
    Hello there...I have a 2000 GXE with 65,000 miles. There are more than the normal amount of road chips and rock dings in my hood at this point. Granted, I do a lot of highway miles, but it is at the point where everyone comments on the bad paint job of my car. The local dealership tells me it is normal wear and tear but I looked at a few used models on their lot with about 15,000 miles and they look pretty bad too.

    Anyone out there had any luck with Nissan directly? Anyone else have this problem?
  • pbhattipbhatti Posts: 87
    A lot of people have complained about the paint on Nissan cars being too thin. My advice is get a bra to protect the front. You can also checkout
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    I hear Nissan is now selling a "sports bra" for the SE :)
  • tr3tr3 Posts: 8
    I own a 2002 GLE and have found several paint chips on the hood of my car. These chips are not from rocks but it appears the paint bubbles up and then flakes off. Is anyone else having this problem? I called the dealer and of course they know of no problems. However the service guy ask me to come in and let them see it. They would then contact someone from Nissan to come and look at it also. I have had the car since April and put 5,000 miles on it. This has been the only problem so far. Thanks for any replys.
  • BoomerBoomer Posts: 7
    I am considering a 2000 Maxima GLE. While driving it I heard a loud banging noise from under the front passenger side. It also occurred right after turning the car off. I've had the car for 3 days and it hasn't happened again. Any thoughts? Also, the drivers door has more resistance when opening than the other 3 doors. It seems like the space between the door/body and the hood/side of body isn't even. Does this usually mean the car has been in an accident?
  • berbelberbel Posts: 167
    From the what it's worth dept..........

    You really need to consider talking with the dealer
    who is trying to sell you the car and ask them to
    inspect it re the noise you heard and have not heard since. If they find a problem, you will insist that they repair it or you will not further
    consider buying it. You might also consider taking
    the car to someone else (other than the dealer) and
    have an independent inspection then go back to the
    dealer and tell them the results of the other
    inspection. (the independent inspection will
    probably cost you)
    Secondly, most states require that the seller
    state whether or not their car has ever been in-
    voled in an accident and if so, to provide the
    specifics of such accident to the purchasing
    dealer. Ask your seller (dealer) if they have that
    questionnaire on file and if necessary tell them
    why you are asking, i.e., you think it might have
    been involved in an accident. If they hedge, I
    think I would tell them you're not interested in
    the car and look at something else at another
    dealer. (I wouldn't trust them any further)

    Good luck

  • BoomerBoomer Posts: 7
    Berbel, thanks for the input. I planned on doing just what you recommended. I was hoping someone would know what that sound might be. I would still be leary if the dealer re-inspected the car and said it was ok. I'm trying to find someone independent to look it over. It's a 2000 Maxima GLE with 30 k miles but it is not a certified vehicle (extended warranty). Why would it not be a certified vehicle? The dealer ran a CarFax and up to 23 k miles, there were no accidents but what about from 23 k to 30 k miles? It appears to be in great condition for $18,800 so I hate to lose it.
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    TSB # 00-030 ( March 2000 ) refers to " Right Front Strut Noise " .........check
    it out with a " Reputable " dealer. Also, take it to a body shop and ask
    their opinion as to whether the vehicle was in an accident.

    I think you should look around some more , unless someone can accurately
    diagnose the problem....not a lot of " What If's ". imho.
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    All right gang, anyone heard this before? When using the "window down" feature of the remote (by holding the open button down for 3 seconds) both front windows are supposed to open fully per the manual (I think this was added in 01 or 02 models). Well about 1/2 the time my windows only open 2 inches then stop. I took my 02 SE 6 speed in for the front suspension recall and asked them to check out this problem. They called back and said the window is only supposed to open 2 inches but they could reprogram it for $60 to open fully. I said NO and said I would reread my manual first. Then they offered to reprogram for free. They allegedly did this, BUT the problem still exists.

    Anyone else with this problem? Why would you reprogram the window down feature, this sounds like total BS from my less than stellar Service department?

    Who can I call at Nissan headquarters to discuss this with?

    OTHERWISE, great car, no issues except this silly window thing. I used my friends Gtech Pro timer and timed myself doing 0-60 times at 6.6 seconds. That Gtech pro is a neat gizmo; an accelerometer that plugs in to lighter and gives you 0-60, 60-0, 1/4 mile and HP figures

    thanks, gg
  • My 02 GLE does the same thing: the window only opens two inches when I hold down the unlock button for three seconds. My remedy is to hold down the unlock button for another three seconds and then the front windows open all the way. A minor inconvenience, but I've gotten used to it.
  • blh7068blh7068 Posts: 375
    My 02 SE- same deal, have to push and hold twice to get 'em down all the way. A mild nuisance at most for me. What is annoying however is the driver is locked out from the other three windows when the window lock is engaged! Okay, who at Nissan was in charge of that
    project? :)
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I know what you mean. My 2001 Protege was the same way, makes no sense to me. I now have a 2002 Jetta, and the lockout only kills the back windows. I guess I can't win for losing! :)
  • Interesting.

    My 02 SE's windows go down all the way on the first try (after 3 seconds of course). But they sure as heck never stop halfway down.

    Aren't modern automobiles just great?
  • bxs98bxs98 Posts: 10
    Hi gg2k2se,

    Is there manufacture recall for 02 SE 6 speed front suspension? When you noticed? I own a 02 SE 6 speed for 2 months now but I don't know any recall. Is anyone out there know anything about this recall? Thanks
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    For those of you that my have not gotten notification from Nissan, here's the text from fro Recall # 02V146000

    Consequence Summary:
    Corrective Summary:
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    Yeah, I usually just press the button a 2nd time. Certainly minor but I was going in for the suspension anyway. What REALLY ANNOYED me was when they asked for $60 to "reprogram the window". I refused so they did it for free, but of course, the problem still remains.

    A co-worker bought a BMW and everytime he takes it to the dealer they press him to come up with a problem with the car, no matter how minor, just so they can fix it. Not exactly Nissan service.
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    that slimeball BMW service department is just trying to pad their warranty claims to BMW.
  • steviebstevieb Posts: 6
    Althought I have an Infiniti I35 (basically the same car), I have experienced the same problem. I've actually had it checked out on 2 different occasions when I've had it at the dealer for service, and they have been unable "to duplicate the problem". I've finally figured out why. My car will do one of two things:

    1. It will respond to 2 pushes of the key fob (lights blink twice to confirm & doors all unlock), but if I hold the button on the 2nd push, the windows only go down about 1/3 of the way and stop. To get them to go down the rest of the way I have to push 2 more times and hold.


    2. It will only respond to the 1st push of the button (driver's door unlocks, lights flash once), doesn not respond to the 2nd push of the button, then I have to push the button 2 more times to unlock the rest of the doors and hold the button on the 4th push. Then the windows will go all the way down.

    I've found that the car will only "misperform" if it's been sitting for a couple of hours. If I try it right after I have driven it, or if I try it again after initially unlocking/having the windows go down, it works perfect everytime thereafter.

    At least now I think I know how I can get it to "misperform" when I take in for service the next time, so the dealer doesn't think I'm crazy.

    If anyone has successfully been able to get this problem diagnosed and corrected, I would sure like to here what the fix was.

  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I have an 02 SE. How far away are you guys when you try to put the windows down? I've noticed with my car, if I'm say 50 feet or more away, it only goes down the 2 inches, but when I'm close to the car (inside 10 feet), the windows go down all the way each time. By the way. Does anyone else think the remote key fob has an absurdly long range. I have literally locked/unlocked my car doors from about 75 yards! I have a 4 runner that will not lock/unlock outside of 20 feet. Just interested to know if mine some how has super powers.
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Posts: 109
    My window down failures all happen when I am within 10 feet of the car...I've been carefully testing it all summer long, trying to eliminate any variables.

    My fob has normal range, nothing extraordinary, but as we all know it's style, not range that's important.

    Well, at least we're talking fob problems instead of transmissions.

  • does anyone know what the APR nissan is now offering on 2003 maximas? i am looking to buy one soon. i have a 1994 nissan altima and it has been a good car. did a lot of research and this car has a lot of great features for the money. want to get the SE in Sheer Silver with sunroof and titanium package(because i want that BOSE 6-disc CD changer). just want to get the lowest APR i can along with the best price. thanks
  • bartalk2bartalk2 Posts: 326
    The new Max will be out next March, based on the Altima platform. A recent story in the press said Nissan/Infiniti has too many cars in the same general price range: Altima, Max, I35, G35, the new the new Nissan sports cars (350), etc. Article said Nissan will push Maxima upmarket a bit.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    Considering a bit the idea of trading and getting into a Maxima. easy to replace factory radio in it a double din or a proprietary radio? I want to have a car with an mini-input to hook up my mp3 jukebox......

  • hammer19hammer19 Posts: 31
    I've had no real problems with my windows on my '03 SE, but I have encountered an "X-File" with my door locks on two occasions lately. I've been using a product called Zaino to polish my new ride and since I've completed the process on the car, on two occasions the doors have locked when I've been rubbing the polish excess off. Now this stuff claims to be extremely anti-static to help to keep airborne dust off the car, but I'm wondering if the combination of the polish and the tires has created a static electric situation that somehow "grounds" itself when I touch it in certain situations, causing the doors to lock on their own (?) Has anyone had a similar experience? It's not the end of the world but it sure is a little strange (...and my wife assures me that she's not playing games from inside the house with the other remote just to mess with me, ...can she be trusted????)
  • bodydoublebodydouble Posts: 801
    Have you also spotted crop circles around your house? :)
Sign In or Register to comment.