ksatbjh - I'm looking at the EX V6 - 200HP. Big difference from 150. Plus I've been driving a Volvo with 180HP and it accelerates like a son of a gun when merging/passing so 200 is more than sufficent. I gotta figure if the manufacturer says to use premium, then you should use it. Like you say, maybe you don't notice a difference but maybe you damage the engine and don't notice that either, in the long run. I have heard similar concerns about US-manufactured Hondas too but like you say, you can have problems with any car - even domestic ones get it right sometimes...lol
JHermon - very interesting! I drive a 97 Volvo and the coverage will go up $150/yr with USAA
bianca2 - about 14K a year so you're right, maybe $150 extra. Not a big deal but when added to increased insurance costs, distance to dealer for service, etc it adds up. I have test driven both cars and don't notice much of a difference, performance-wise. The extra HP def is NOT needed unless you want to rack up speeding tickets! And yes, I have given USAA VIN numbers to get exact quotes, with a super clean record and well over 25....lol!!! They say Maximas historically have higher rates due to cost to repair, etc (I find that difficult to swallow but them's the rates I have to go by)...
Bottom line - would be happy with either car, so why not go with the one that costs less?
...with whatever makes you happy! I wouldn't like to go long distances to a dealer either. Personally, I ruled out the Accord, among other reasons, because it didn't have a folding divided rear seat back, just all of a piece. There are too many times when we need space for a third person AND the extra cargo room of the split folded rear seat. Bottom line: whatever factor makes the difference for you, that's the one that will make you happy.
Our accord was a very good car. The reason we got a maxima is because it's actually very similar to the accord and that's what my wife wanted. We just didn't want another Accord because we're pretty sure our house was targeted by thieves because of that car (see theft rates).
Pro's & Con's (not including engines):
The accord had a better suspension for bumpy roads, but it's noisy. I believe that the 01 and later accords have more sound insulation so this may have improved.
The maxima is quieter and the 02's, at least, look great, plus you don't see them at every stop light. Also, the Maxima has a lot more goodies (trip computer, nicer stereo, steering wheel controls, fancy headlights), but you pay for it. I guess the big difference I feel with the maxima is that I feel like I'm driving a higher class of car - that's just a feeling, though, and in reality the accord is very similar.
Regarding the gas. Everything I've read, including the owners manual, says that lower octane fuel only damages an engine if it causes pinging. As I said, the Maxima, and many other new cars, have sensors that allow the engine to adjust for different octanes w/out pinging. The only thing that higher octane will do in slighly increase performance. Correct me if you have other information.
That's exactly what I did - I selected all the options of Maxima GLE that I wanted and printed the quote from carsdirect.com.
The first two dealers I went to said no way. The third one matched the price and "ordered" my vehicle.
The problem is that you cannot order from the Nissan factory - basically the dealer checks with other dealers over a period of time to see if they can find a car with your specs.
Turned out they found one, but with a few more options than what I wanted (6 disc CD changer, traction control, and microfilter were extra).
As I have already signed a contract they agreed to sell me the extras at a very reduced price, so I ended up paying less than the carsdirect price for all the options I got.
I was prepared to go though carsdirect.com if my price wasn't matched though. I've heard of people who were happy with their carsdirect.com purchase.
saw your post in Smart Shopper. No, the Maxima is (2001s at 3.9% are extremely attractive) still a leading contender! Malibu was "bare necessity" vehicle that could be paid off easily in 3yrs at 0%. Haven't owned a domestic car in over 20 yrs so hoping they've improved! Also trying to help my son out on a car so may need to send a few $ his way. After thinking about what you said, for an extra few hundred a year, the Max may well be worth it. Only other issue is the dealer is on the other side of town while the Honda dealer is just down the road. Though hopefully I won't need to go there all that much... -)
For the curious, I just ordered a 2002 Max from CarsDirect-- $100 over invoice for a stripped SE-- and they're telling me the 6-speed "will not be released until November". I'm e-mailing them back to find out whether the limited-slip diff will be available at the same time; their site doesn't even mention it.
I've got a 2000 GLE, Satin Blue Pearl. Lovely car, loaded with everything except the air filter and the 6 disc CD. It only sees the dealership for oil changes and such, which I do religiously as per the maintenance schedule.
If you figure that your extra insurance plus premium gas (and DO use the premium, don't risk harming that great engine) will cost you an extra $25 a month or so, that's maybe 4 or 5 stops at McDonalds. Cut out the junk food and you can afford the car of your dreams. Sounds like a decent trade off to me! (Not that I would encourage anyone to get in over their heads financially - but it's amazing sometimes what small trade-offs make big dreams possible.)
My current car takes premium and all my friends shriek "That's so expensive." Huh? If 87 octane runs you 169 a gallon, how in the blazes is 91 octane at 189 that much worse? I figure on every fillup (12 gallons or so), I spend a measely $2.50 extra than I would if I were to cheap out and put 87 in my car. That's only $10 a month!
That's it exactly! I can't see how it would be a big issue for someone who drives the average amount, which is 12 - 15 k a year. Super-long commutes might make a difference, but otherwise I doubt anyone would really notice it. And really, if the manufacturer says premium is recommended, then do yourself and your car a favor and do like the man says.
how did you know I eat at McDonald's a lot???...lol. Anyway, went by the dealer this afternoon and talked to the service folks - they said you do NOT need to use premium on the Maxima. 89 octane and up is just fine...so, that eliminates that issue though I agree with the above posts that an extra $10-15/month isn't that much as long gas prices don't skyrocket again...
I spoke with my local dealer about 6 speed availability earlier today. I was told that nothing had changed ... car was released today, and they are scheduled to receive their first shipments in about 2 weeks.
I just bought a 2002 Maxima SE Saturday. Tungsten Blue. I traded a 99 Regal GS. What a difference. I was driving home from work and kept going. I didn't want to stop. Finally headed for home before the wife filed a missing persons report. I have already received several comments on what a beautiful car it is. I have a feeling I'm going to have a lot of miles on this car.
I plan to buy a car early next year and I'm seriously considering a fully loaded 6 speed SE. I'm also considering a 325i and the new Caddy CTS but I think, other than the name, you certainly get more bang for your buck with the Maxima. As far as the premium fuel is concerned, you typically get better gas mileage with the higher grade fuel so you probably don't save very much with 87 octane in the long run, if at all..
Don't always listen to the Nissan service folks. Yes, you can use lower then 91 octane in the Max. Yes, the Max has a knock sensor that will adjust timing if it senses any knocking. You will probably not even be aware that the timing is being adjusted. So why not use lower octane? Because if the timing is being adjusted by the knock sensor your gas milage will most likely be taking a hit. It is very likely, depending on the way you drive, that the reduced gas milage will more then make up for the lower price of the lower octane gas. A ways back on this topic there were a few people that were getting gas milage of about 2-3 miles per gallon less with lower octane then with the higher octane. Again, it depends on the way you drive.
Yes, have read there's usually a tradeoff: either save money on the gas and get less mpg OR spend more on the gas and get more mpg. The main pt is that using 89 octane will not hurt the engine which is my major concern.
will38, congrats on your new car! I saw that tungsten blue at the dealer when I went in for the last oil change, it is gorgeous! I like it even better than my color (Satin Blue Pearl). You've got yourself a beauty. So when do you plan your first long road trip?
godeacs, keep the dream alive! Either get yourself into a 2001 right now, or wait until November when prices might be a little more negotiable on the 2002s. You won't regret it. And let your son buy his own car, what does he think parents are, a bank??? (Um, well...good luck getting out of that one! lol)
Conley, the Maxima compares very favorably to BMWs, IMHO. You have to get a 5 series to be comparable on size, and comparably equipped, the 5 series is about $20,000 more than the Maxima. I can't see at all where it's worth it. I looked at the 3 series before I bought the Max, and thought the trunk was tiny and the seats were too hard. Just me, though, others might find they like that Teutonic style. Personally I didn't care for it.
... I don't dispute your conclusion that the Maxima is a great value. I've owned a 1995 SE for 114k care free miles.
However, as I look to replace my Maxima in a few months, I am considering (among several alternatives) a 2002 530i 5-speed, sport + premium package plus other goodies for about $41,500 (European delivery). I suspect that's only about $13-$15k more than a fully loaded 2002 SE 6-speed (not $20k). This still doesn't change your analysis that the Maxima is a heck of a good value. Although I prefer the 5-series handling and the very comfortable sport seats, I have real difficulty giving up the low cost service and maintenance that I have been accustomed to for the past seven years.
For my friends or associates, I have never hesitated recommending the Maxima.
I am seriously considering Maxima GXE due to its low cost (around 23.6k) But everyone keeps asking me to buy the SE. Personally I prefer a nicer ride, cheaper car. I am driving an old sports car and the suspension with all the road bumps/potholes is killing me... so I would like to have a smoother,nicer ride this time.
habitat, if you didn't take European delivery, how much would it be? I paid $26,300 for a Y2K GLE last summer. I just read a review of the BMW 5 series, added up the options of sunroof, heated leather seats, etc. , and it would have been around $45 or 46 k, I forget exactly. That's where I came up with the $20,000 figure. You might be right if you compare it to a new 6-speed. Anyway, either way you slice it, $15 or 20 k more is still a big pile of change (especially with everyone's stock portfolios heading toward the basement!), not to mention differences in maintenance costs down the road. It's just not where I'd want to put my money, but to each their own.
merlion, be sure to drive each one. If you object to feeling potholes and bumps, the GXE would probably be your better bet. The SE has a stiffer, more "sporty" suspension, and you will feel the bumps more. Drive and compare, don't be overly influenced by what your friends are saying. The GXE and GLE are designed to have a smoother ride.
Of course the dealer can special order from the factory. They lied to you. Salesmen and their managers are notorious liers. They did that to get you to buy a car with more options (and more profit for them).
How did you get such a good deal at CarsDirect?? I went there and they quoted me a price about $900 over invoice at $24,311. Please let me know what you did. Thanks-
Hard to believe that location would make that big a difference, but that's apparently what's going on here. I'm in zip code 01960; for a 6-speed SE with no options except floor mats and 50-state emissions (no charge), the cdc price was 23,981 compared to an invoice of 23,881. Go figure. You'd think they'd be able to do better than $900 over invoice unless you're in Alaska or something.
I went for the SE in 1995 without hesitation, because I found the handling to be considerably tighter then the GXE/GLE on some twisty roads that I drive every day. Personally, I have never found the SE's suspension too harsh, and I live in DC, not exactly known for smooth roads. And it's not like the SE is a true sports car with 35 or 40 series tires.
I second the suggestion that you test drive each on a similar "course" that includes a variety of conditions to see which you like better.
P.S. In 1995, the GXE did not have the same liquid filled engine mounts and sound insulation as either the SE or GLE. As a result, I know of some people who bought the GXE and although the suspension was softer, the ride was noisier and rougher than the SE's. Nothing like getting the worst of both worlds. Nissan may have changed the GXE specs for the new model, but I would check it out and drive it hard before you get the GXE.
I had more fun on carsdirect.com last night, trying to configure a 2002 Maxima SE.
All I wanted to add was traction control. It said that in order to have traction control I will have to select sunroof. I selected sunroof. Then it said that in order to have sunroof I will need to select leather seats. I selected leather seats, then... I don't remember what else, but it forced me to select 6 or more options that I did not want.
Nissan does that quite often and it's annoying. To get the leather and sunroof one must get a useless stereo system that sets you back another grand. Huh? What do I need a Bose system for, I listen to talk radio and a CD once in awhile?
I'm planning a 3 hour one way to my brothers' house in Wisconsin this weekend. I wish the weather was going to be as nice as it is today. Now I'm thinking I should have waited to get it this spring. I hate the thought of driving it this winter.
Do you have good fall color right now out in the great mid-west? Great time for a trip to Wisconsin. Did you get traction control? You'll be fine in the winter if you did. I was driving ours around Christmas in Michigan last year, which was one of the worst winters on record. Lots of snow over glazed ice. The car was fine; we did notice the "traction engaged" light coming on every so often.
For Maxima with 3.0l premium gas is certainly needed; but for the new 3.5l, regular gas is recommeded instead as I just read from Edmund New Car for Maxima. That's because the compression ratio on the 3.0l engine is higher than the new 3.5l.
Danny-- Just thought of this, did you get your invoice price from CarsDirect or someplace else? They add $410 to their invoice for advertising and miscellaneous mfr-to-dealer fees. But since this is included in their price while (if I'm remembering correctly from my last car purchase 6 years ago) it's added on to the price you agree to at a dealership, an $X-over-invoice deal from CD should still be comparable to $X-over-invoice from a dealer. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Blueguy-- That's Nissan for you in general; before you can get Driven you have to get Driven Nuts for a bit . But according to their site the only prerequisite for traction control is the automatic transmission. This looks more like CD's mistake.
I just used the numbers they had right there. When I put in your zip the prices are: Carsdirect - 23920, MSRP - 25989, invoice - 23820. My zip: Carsdirect - 24311, MSRP - 25989, invoice - 23411. My price is only 400 more than yours, but it looked worse because they have 2 different invoice prices, which makes NO sense. Also I live in Texas and when I put in my zip another window pops up and says this: Although CarsDirect.com does not yet offer vehicle purchasing and leasing in Texas, customers in this state can use CarsDirect.com to:
Research and compare prices See complete, upfront vehicle pricing information Apply online now and get vehicle financing through our partner PeopleFirst.com
Looks like they're adding that advertising fee (it was actually $409 and change) onto the invoice they quote me but not the invoice they quote you. Danged if I know why. I thought everything was supposed to be BIGGER in Texas.
One of these days the Web's going to make buying a new car as simple and straightforward as it's made, say, buying a million dollars' worth of stock. But we ain't quite there yet.
I wonder if it would be possible to order a car in a state that carsdirect does work with even if you don't live there. If the deal is good enough I could order it to CA were I have family, take a vacation there and drive back in a new car. Does anybody know enough about ordering cars over the internet to let me know about this.
I had a 1993 Maxima SE 5 speed, purchased new and sold two years ago with 106,000 miles. I test drove several 5 speed 2000 Maximas back to back with 5 different BMW 323/328 models. The 2000 Maxima had a firmer suspension than my 1993, but the BMW definitely cornered better, especially with the sport suspension. It was close, but I went with the 323Ci. Trade off was: BMW Coupe was significantly better looking BMW titanium silver color was better looking BMW cornered and handled better I'd owned a Maxima, but not a BMW Maxima was a better value Maxima was more practical - more room Maxima was lower cost, especially with $3,500 discount off $29,000 vs $1,300 discount on BMW off $35,500 (both cars with leather, etc.) After 25 months on my 39 month lease I'm again thinking about next year. The Maxima has the new 255 hp engine and six speed transmission. The 2003 models are scheduled for a redesign, so I need to see the results (new Altima looks promising, so maybe Maxima will follow suit). I want to see how R&T, Autoweek and other reviewers rate the handling and see if the 255 hp results in significant performance improvement. Not an easy decision.
I don't know if u guys notice this. Carsdirect.com's invoice prices is not really the invoice prices of the car. I double checked it with a Nissan dealer and Kelly Blue Book, it is a lower price compared to carsdirect.com's price.
Being in Michigan, is traction control a must (using an auto gear)? If I add traction control, it would add a bunch of unnecessary options and jacked up the price by 2-3k.
I test drove the GLE,not GXE. (assuming the suspension is the same) I will test drive the SE if there is a chance.
I believe the GXE has the liquid filled engine mounts. My usual roads are straight roads, nothing twisty.
For anyplace in the snowbelt, personally I would strongly recommend traction control. It made a difference to me. I felt very confident driving on the worst that Michigan can come up with. It might be true that it would be hard to find without some of the other options, but you could try ordering the car just as you want it, if you have the time and patience to go that route.
Traction Control is a pretty useless option on FWD car, in my opinion. I didn’t want one in my Maxima, but the car they found for me had it, so I took. I used to lease an M3 (which is RWD), and the stability control was really useful. I could easily induce over steer, even on dry surfaces, and the stability control would reduce power for you, and apply the breaks selectively on different wheels, to prevent the car from spinning out of control. Actually, I think the old M3 ('97) stability control was a little too conservative, but without it, it was quite a challenge to drive in a spirited fashion.
With my Maxima, the only time when the traction control was useful was when accelerating hard from a standing start, in the wet or snow. But all the traction control does is prevent the wheels from spinning - and there is no real danger when that happens. Actually, any FWD car even without a traction control will have better traction from a standing start than a RWD car with traction control. This is because FWD cars tend to have more weight on the front wheels. With my old M3, I had a 50/50 weight distribution, and the rear wheels were rather wide, so even with the traction control, I had great difficulty moving forward in the snow. I remember people getting annoyed with me when the lights change and I try helplessly to move forward. My only consolation was that in the dry I got back at them really well .
I've got it on the Contour SE I've got now; I'd say it's nice to have but not absolutely essential, not here in Boston anyway. As 'sgrd0q' points out, it's not really a safety feature, but in certain conditions it can be a not-getting-completely-stuck feature.
It looks like Blueguy and Merlion are right about the other option requirements and I was wrong. The specifications page at nissandriven.com does say it only requires the automatic, but their "Build your Maxima" page (as well as Edmunds) says you do have to take all those other options to get it. A pity. If it were just a matter of spending $300, I'd say it's a no-brainer for someone living in Michigan. (And a no-brainerd for someone living in Minnesota?) Why Nissan thinks needing traction control has anything to do with needing a Bose radio and a hole in your roof is anybody's guess.
Actually, traction control can help even once you are moving. Imagine the situation where you are rounding a corner in the winter and hit a patch of ice. With the power available in the Maxima it is quite possible that the front tires will start to spin causing you to continue straight instead of rounding the corner. With traction control the wheel spin should be eliminated thus reducing the possibility that you will have an accident. That same could be said (to a different degree though) for rounding a corner when the roads are wet. That said, I agree that it may not be worth the added cost.
If you don't want the whole slew of other options, your money might be better spent buying 4 dedicated snow tires. Would probably run between $500 and $900 from tirerack.com.
My Saab doesn't have traction control and I went this route for winter use (my car came with summer tires only). Never been stuck -- not even close -- in snow up to 15 inches.
Also, if you plan to lease, buying 4 snows on steel wheels might come out cheaper than replacing the tires on the car before turning it in at 45000 miles because you've worn them out. If you put 12,000 miles on the snow tires, with the remaining on the tires that came with the car, you probably won't have worn the tries enough to replace them when you turn in the car.
If you buy a car in California you may be subject to sales tax unless you have a representative of the dealership deliver it to the state line, or have it shipped.
Some dealers can work around this rule, some don't know how.
In my most recent copy of Automobile magazine I saw an advertisement for the I35 and it listed the availability of vehicle stability control (VSC) as an option.
Does anyone know whether VSC will be offered as an option on the Maxima at a later time, if at all?
You are right, but the situation that you described can be detected fairly easily, and corrected equally easily - just reduce the gas. Understeer is generally an easier thing to correct than oversteer.
Comments
ksatbjh - I'm looking at the EX V6 - 200HP. Big difference from 150. Plus I've been driving a Volvo with 180HP and it accelerates like a son of a gun when merging/passing so 200 is more than sufficent. I gotta figure if the manufacturer says to use premium, then you should use it. Like you say, maybe you don't notice a difference but maybe you damage the engine and don't notice that either, in the long run. I have heard similar concerns about US-manufactured Hondas too but like you say, you can have problems with any car - even domestic ones get it right sometimes...lol
JHermon - very interesting! I drive a 97 Volvo and the coverage will go up $150/yr with USAA
bianca2 - about 14K a year so you're right, maybe $150 extra. Not a big deal but when added to increased insurance costs, distance to dealer for service, etc it adds up. I have test driven both cars and don't notice much of a difference, performance-wise. The extra HP def is NOT needed unless you want to rack up speeding tickets! And yes, I have given USAA VIN numbers to get exact quotes, with a super clean record and well over 25....lol!!! They say Maximas historically have higher rates due to cost to repair, etc (I find that difficult to swallow but them's the rates I have to go by)...
Bottom line - would be happy with either car, so why not go with the one that costs less?
Pro's & Con's (not including engines):
The accord had a better suspension for bumpy roads, but it's noisy. I believe that the 01 and later accords have more sound insulation so this may have improved.
The maxima is quieter and the 02's, at least, look great, plus you don't see them at every stop light. Also, the Maxima has a lot more goodies (trip computer, nicer stereo, steering wheel controls, fancy headlights), but you pay for it. I guess the big difference I feel with the maxima is that I feel like I'm driving a higher class of car - that's just a feeling, though, and in reality the accord is very similar.
Regarding the gas. Everything I've read, including the owners manual, says that lower octane fuel only damages an engine if it causes pinging. As I said, the Maxima, and many other new cars, have sensors that allow the engine to adjust for different octanes w/out pinging. The only thing that higher octane will do in slighly increase performance. Correct me if you have other information.
The first two dealers I went to said no way. The third one matched the price and "ordered" my vehicle.
The problem is that you cannot order from the Nissan factory - basically the dealer checks with other dealers over a period of time to see if they can find a car with your specs.
Turned out they found one, but with a few more options than what I wanted (6 disc CD changer, traction control, and microfilter were extra).
As I have already signed a contract they agreed to sell me the extras at a very reduced price, so I ended up paying less than the carsdirect price for all the options I got.
I was prepared to go though carsdirect.com if my price wasn't matched though. I've heard of people who were happy with their carsdirect.com purchase.
good pts on the gas too....will check with the Nissan mechanics....hopefully, they will confirm what you said - would help me make my decision... -)
PS Which Max are you driving?
If you figure that your extra insurance plus premium gas (and DO use the premium, don't risk harming that great engine) will cost you an extra $25 a month or so, that's maybe 4 or 5 stops at McDonalds. Cut out the junk food and you can afford the car of your dreams. Sounds like a decent trade off to me! (Not that I would encourage anyone to get in over their heads financially - but it's amazing sometimes what small trade-offs make big dreams possible.)
The dream is alive!!!
We'll see.
godeacs, keep the dream alive! Either get yourself into a 2001 right now, or wait until November when prices might be a little more negotiable on the 2002s. You won't regret it. And let your son buy his own car, what does he think parents are, a bank??? (Um, well...good luck getting out of that one! lol)
Conley, the Maxima compares very favorably to BMWs, IMHO. You have to get a 5 series to be comparable on size, and comparably equipped, the 5 series is about $20,000 more than the Maxima. I can't see at all where it's worth it. I looked at the 3 series before I bought the Max, and thought the trunk was tiny and the seats were too hard. Just me, though, others might find they like that Teutonic style. Personally I didn't care for it.
However, as I look to replace my Maxima in a few months, I am considering (among several alternatives) a 2002 530i 5-speed, sport + premium package plus other goodies for about $41,500 (European delivery). I suspect that's only about $13-$15k more than a fully loaded 2002 SE 6-speed (not $20k). This still doesn't change your analysis that the Maxima is a heck of a good value. Although I prefer the 5-series handling and the very comfortable sport seats, I have real difficulty giving up the low cost service and maintenance that I have been accustomed to for the past seven years.
For my friends or associates, I have never hesitated recommending the Maxima.
Any suggestions/views on this ?
merlion, be sure to drive each one. If you object to feeling potholes and bumps, the GXE would probably be your better bet. The SE has a stiffer, more "sporty" suspension, and you will feel the bumps more. Drive and compare, don't be overly influenced by what your friends are saying. The GXE and GLE are designed to have a smoother ride.
I second the suggestion that you test drive each on a similar "course" that includes a variety of conditions to see which you like better.
P.S. In 1995, the GXE did not have the same liquid filled engine mounts and sound insulation as either the SE or GLE. As a result, I know of some people who bought the GXE and although the suspension was softer, the ride was noisier and rougher than the SE's. Nothing like getting the worst of both worlds. Nissan may have changed the GXE specs for the new model, but I would check it out and drive it hard before you get the GXE.
All I wanted to add was traction control. It said that in order to have traction control I will have to select sunroof. I selected sunroof. Then it said that in order to have sunroof I will need to select leather seats. I selected leather seats, then... I don't remember what else, but it forced me to select 6 or more options that I did not want.
Blueguy-- That's Nissan for you in general; before you can get Driven you have to get Driven Nuts for a bit . But according to their site the only prerequisite for traction control is the automatic transmission. This looks more like CD's mistake.
Although CarsDirect.com does not yet offer vehicle purchasing and leasing in Texas, customers in this state can use CarsDirect.com to:
Research and compare prices
See complete, upfront vehicle pricing information
Apply online now and get vehicle financing through our partner PeopleFirst.com
One of these days the Web's going to make buying a new car as simple and straightforward as it's made, say, buying a million dollars' worth of stock. But we ain't quite there yet.
BMW Coupe was significantly better looking
BMW titanium silver color was better looking
BMW cornered and handled better
I'd owned a Maxima, but not a BMW
Maxima was a better value
Maxima was more practical - more room
Maxima was lower cost, especially with $3,500 discount off $29,000 vs $1,300 discount on BMW off $35,500 (both cars with leather, etc.)
After 25 months on my 39 month lease I'm again thinking about next year. The Maxima has the new 255 hp engine and six speed transmission. The 2003 models are scheduled for a redesign, so I need to see the results (new Altima looks promising, so maybe Maxima will follow suit). I want to see how R&T, Autoweek and other reviewers rate the handling and see if the 255 hp results in significant performance improvement. Not an easy decision.
Being in Michigan, is traction control a must (using an auto gear)? If I add traction control, it would add a bunch of unnecessary options and jacked up the price by 2-3k.
I test drove the GLE,not GXE. (assuming the suspension is the same) I will test drive the SE if there is a chance.
I believe the GXE has the liquid filled engine mounts. My usual roads are straight roads, nothing twisty.
Thanks to bianca2,habitat1 for your comments.
With my Maxima, the only time when the traction control was useful was when accelerating hard from a standing start, in the wet or snow. But all the traction control does is prevent the wheels from spinning - and there is no real danger when that happens. Actually, any FWD car even without a traction control will have better traction from a standing start than a RWD car with traction control. This is because FWD cars tend to have more weight on the front wheels. With my old M3, I had a 50/50 weight distribution, and the rear wheels were rather wide, so even with the traction control, I had great difficulty moving forward in the snow. I remember people getting annoyed with me when the lights change and I try helplessly to move forward. My only consolation was that in the dry I got back at them really well
It looks like Blueguy and Merlion are right about the other option requirements and I was wrong. The specifications page at nissandriven.com does say it only requires the automatic, but their "Build your Maxima" page (as well as Edmunds) says you do have to take all those other options to get it. A pity. If it were just a matter of spending $300, I'd say it's a no-brainer for someone living in Michigan. (And a no-brainerd for someone living in Minnesota?) Why Nissan thinks needing traction control has anything to do with needing a Bose radio and a hole in your roof is anybody's guess.
My Saab doesn't have traction control and I went this route for winter use (my car came with summer tires only). Never been stuck -- not even close -- in snow up to 15 inches.
Also, if you plan to lease, buying 4 snows on steel wheels might come out cheaper than replacing the tires on the car before turning it in at 45000 miles because you've worn them out. If you put 12,000 miles on the snow tires, with the remaining on the tires that came with the car, you probably won't have worn the tries enough to replace them when you turn in the car.
A couple of random thoughts...
Some dealers can work around this rule, some don't know how.
Does anyone know whether VSC will be offered as an option on the Maxima at a later time, if at all?
thanks!