Just hit 60k and it's as good as new. No hood problems to report. Quality has been as good as my 93 Lexus SC400. The most incredible surprise about my car is the handling in the snow. Were getting plenty of it in Chicago this weekend and it stop and starts like no other FWD drive car I have ever owned.
A little under 7,000 miles on my '01 auto SE with the 17"ers. No steering wheel vibration at idle or speed, idle on mine around 750 to 800 RPMs. Sitting in the car with engine on and radio off,(an unususl occurance for me)and hands on the wheel, you wouldnt even know car was running. I've noticed no hood vibration except maybe over bumps. I'm very happy with this car so far. Almost wish I had a further commute to work to enjoy it more. Well, ok - not that.
I read your post and I agree with you about traction control as a stand alone option. Here is some interesting info on that. If you go to nissancanada.com you find that the 02 SE in Canada is available with TC. If you order the Auto Trans package $1000 Canadian it includes the TC. Makes you wonder why Nissan would not offer the same package in the USA!!
the SE with a stick. The engine was GOOD, not as smooth as the Altima, but thereal problem was the tuning of the NVH. The ride was a little too firm, too much road noise, and the rear end did seem "Mustangish" compared to the Altima. Looks like the phasing out of the Maxima is just about complete.....
Can anyone provide any useful information to upgrading the stock stereo in a 2k2 GXE? I'm interested in upgrading with a subwoofer, amp, new head unit (preferably one that can play mp3's/cd-r's), and possibly an equalizer. My concern is with the size of the stock unit and with any issues with fitting new equipment into the dash.
I've been reading this board since I bought my new 2002 SE auto February 4. After a month of ownership I love this car. I can't think of anything I don't like about it. No hood flap, rough idle. It's perfect. I was concerned that I might not like the firmness of the sport suspension over the long haul but, I have become used to it and find it to my liking. I Really like the styling.
I have a 2k1 Max SE. I believe the dash and radio are exactly the same. I just pulled my radio and tapped the speakers to add a sub.
A couple of things I noticed:
1) Most of the trim is easy to remove. Almost everything is snaps for the side trim and screws for the dash and glovebox.
2) The head unit is a double din opening. You should be able to fit both a radio and equalizer in if you want. I don't think the fit is a problem. It has two sets of standard attachment points. The problem will be the trim kit or something to finish it off.
The ac vents above the radio are an absolute pain to pull out. Pop the bottom of the vent up slightly (about 1/2" or so)from the top of the radio then pull it out towards you (rotating upwards slightly). It takes a lot of muscle. There are no screws holding it in (even though it seems like it).
3) Running power cable: I drilled a hole in the firewall just below and to the right of where my clutch cable goes through. You must be a little careful of the lines on the other side. I've heard of people removing the front left wheel and pulling the wheel well cover off to use an opening there. Either way, it works. Good luck.
Get over it? WHY should I have to get over anything....there are $13,000 Chrysler-Plymouths out there that dont have hood vibration problems...I drove an 87 Camry for 13 years with NO hood vibration problems ...if you want to choose to ignore a growing promblem thats your business...I WILL NOT...other consumers have a right to know about this BS...A 27,000-30,000 auto should not have this kind of quality control problem period...thats why your paying so high in the first place.........Joe D.
Most (all?) car manufacturers quote turning radius at the tires, but Consumer Reports quotes the furthest extremity of the car, most likely the edge of the bumper, so it will be bigger.
I bought a used 2001 Maxima (6 month old) instead of the 2002 Altima because... The ride was a little bit firmer, there was a LOT less road noise, and the rear end seemed more planted to the road compared to the Altima.
Oh, and I save over 6k (compared to the dealer invoice) for not buying it new.
Talk about different tastes. lol!
P.S.: Now I can wait for the 2004 Maxima and not be "upside down".
I don't think a flapping hood qualifies for application of the lemon law though. They would probably classify that as a fit and finish issue.
Joe If the hood latch secures the hood tight, I can't imagine that the hood would do anything more than a slight jiggle from the air pressure underneath pushing up. And if the latch is not tight, surely they can adjust the rubber hood stops and/or the position of the latch? Or did you post earlier that they have already tried that?
Are the 17" wheels on the 2002 SE forge or cast? Are the spokes hollow or solid? What is the bolt pattern, center bore diameter and offset of the 17" wheel? I can't imagine Nissan will make hollow spokes wheels for a $24k-30k car like the hollow spokes wheels Porsche put on their 911 twin turbos. Anyway, I am just curious about the wheels on my SE.
I didn't notice any hood flap on my 2002 SE. But I am wondering if there is some sort adjustable hood stop or whatever is under the hood. I sort of vaguely remembered seeing some sort of stopper on the front crossmember with a rubber boot over it and looks like it is spring loaded. I believe it is some sort stopper for the hood. I have not remove the rubber boot to see what is underneath the boot. The last two Audis that I owned both had some sort adjustable stoppers for both the hood and the trunk. Yes, I know this is a Nissan but I am not surprise if it has some sort of adjustable hood stoppers or whatever they call it.
..as being the one person who could get to the bottom of your hood flapping problem with Nissan. After all, anyone who was able to drive a an 87 Camry for 13 years has the endurance to take on just about any of life's challenges. I would have needed a frontal lobotomy after about 2 years with a Camry to remove any residual ambitions of driving excitement.
By the way, before you go out and buy any Chrysler, GM or Ford product, you might want to try having the Maxima hood removed completely. You will still have a substantially better product, both mechanically and aesthetically.
Seriously, go give the Nissan dealer and customer service hell and get your problem fixed. Don't throw out the baby with the bath water. Good luck and keep us posted.
for feeling my pain... Roar1: the hood like in other newer Max's flaps towards the rear on the drivers side...my bet if I sat on the passenger side it would be the same thing.. To answer the question about the hood stops..yes they were adjusted to the maximum setting..only to minimize the flutter but at expense of looking ridiculous with a really wide gap between the grille and hood...TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE.....where as ...its left me with unfavorable choice of really noticable gap or hood flutter.. habitat1:dont worry ..I have no intentions of getting any Chrysler product...I was just making a point that if a 13,000 Chrysler product can have a normal hood...why cant my 30,000 Maxima.. And to find out its happening on the 2002's it's really heartbreaking at this level.. To me... its truly the Japanese following an old American tradition of poor quality control..Joe D.
Anyone know off hand if you can remove the rear center tail light when you add a spoiler to the Maxima(since there is one in the spoiler already)? I was told you could by three different dealers, but the installer says he has never removed one in nine years. I find this hard to believe.
on this hood issue. #1. There are no adjustable hood stops on 5 th. gen. Maximas. ( none on my 2kgle anyway ). All you can do is replace the permanent stops with thicker ones or add rubber shims to the stops.
#2. What looks like a rubber stop is actually an electrical switch. I believe it's tied into the anti-theft system.
#3. How can anyone SAFELY look at the left rear of the hood while driving ( unless you are reading a book also ).
#4. The left rear of the hood ( and the right ) is the strongest part because it is bolted to the hood hinges. I believe (imho) that what someone may be seeing is actually reflections in the paint from possible sheet metal movement . Folks, we're talking .002 in ( 2-thousands of an inch of movement). Not exactly what I would call flapping.
#5. I have the name of a good doctor who specializes in advanced stages AW disease.( anal whining)
#6. I also have the name of a good dentist for the gum problem (flapping)
All kidding aside, if you are one of the many ( what 2 ) people having this problem, you had better have your vehicle checked for prior crash damage.
I can't believe I just wasted 3 minutes of my life writting about this ridiculus topic. I gotta stop reading this board but, I do find it amusing.
It didn't really bother me, but that hood flapping is real. Test drove a 2k2 SE last week and on the highway the front of the hood was bopping up and down - about 3/4 inch. No need to get defensive.
Ok....My 02 SE has the hood flapping problem, but it is only at speeds in excess of 80mph and then it just flaps a little bit. Doesn't hurt the aerodynamics at all. Yeah, it bugs a bit (I guess I can't lie.), but it really isn't that big a deal to me. I can live with it because everything else about the car is flawless (with exception of the lousy rear beam axle, but even that is not that bad either).
However, I will agree with J.Dimotta with the way he explains how it happens. It is the exact same way with my vehicle. However, his Maxima was $30K and mine was only $25K, so I can see why he is more upset than me.
I had thought the hood was fluttering at the front edge where it is only secured by the one single latch. As roar1 said, the back is where it is bolted to the hinge. I didn't think there would be any movement there.
ROAR1: #1: YOU are wrong..there are(the name may be wrong)2 rubber stop devices under the hood at each corner that have nothing to do with the alarm in my 2001..I watched the service writer adjust both of them up and down to seee both results. #2:You dont have to be looking at the hood directly to see this happening..its called perephial vision..do you have any? #3:regardless of it being the strongest partt of the hood ..SO WHAT...IF...it was the front like you think we wouldnt be able to see this problem at all.What we are seeing is defenitly to the rear. #4 What may be ridiculous to you...is obviously not so ridiculous to many others..and I mite add, trust me ...you'd be on this "band wagon of anal whiners" as well if this was happening to you...its not 2 people this is happening to ..it's many..so this is justifiable. Guess you are online too much...take a break...........Joe D.
But I know that Nissan is really inconsistent with the gaping between the hood and the grill for the Maxima. Even from looking at photos from their various print ads and brouchures of the Maxima, there are very noticeable differences in the size of the gap with different cars. I agree that personally a big gap would bug the hell out of me since the hood would look like it has been popped open.
Although I'm still having trouble picturing what exactly is going on with this hood flap, here's another thought. You know how you can sometimes take an old cookie baking sheet, twist it back and forth, and get it to kind of "snap" into place (for lack of a better word) at either extreme? Or the lids on jars that pop up when you break the seal - you can still push them in/out and you feel them snap a little. Could that sort of thing be happening with the hood? Or maybe there was a bad weld which came undone, and the hood has lost some of its rigidity? Less rigidity would mean the hood's natural frequency is lower, and the airflow (or some other source of vibration) could then cause the flapping you're seeing.
Also, would it be possible to just get the hood replaced and see if that eliminates the problem?
Just some more ideas. Hope you can track this down!
P.S. My first posting. I bought a 2002 6-spd less than a week ago, and am loving it. The car I upgraded from: an '85 Accord! Absolutely no comparison. I have the Merlot - anyone else with that color?
Although I'm still having trouble picturing what exactly is going on with this hood flap, here's another thought. You know how you can sometimes take an old cookie baking sheet, twist it back and forth, and get it to kind of "snap" into place (for lack of a better word) at either extreme? Or the lids on jars that pop up when you break the seal - you can still push them in/out and you feel them snap a little. Could that sort of thing be happening with the hood? Or maybe there was a bad weld which came undone, and the hood has lost some of its rigidity? Less rigidity would mean the hood's natural frequency is lower, and the airflow (or some other source of vibration) could then cause the flapping you're seeing.
Also, would it be possible to just get the hood replaced and see if that eliminates the problem?
Just some more ideas. Hope you can track this down!
P.S. My first posting. I bought a 2002 6-spd less than a week ago, and am loving it. The car I upgraded from: an '85 Accord! Absolutely no comparison. I have the Merlot - anyone else with that color?
I turned in my 90SE in October for the 02SE. I've noticed no hood flapping or steering wheel vibrations. Motor and handling are awesome, though I have to say that the driver's seat and seating position are terrible. Hard to fathom what Nissan was thinking.
Canadiancl: if you want to get ill take a look at one of the older front view pictures of the 2001 Maxima in the Car and Driver ad...it's PICTURE PERFECT streamlined like it should be. I believe this is happening for a couple of reasons and I'll let it be: 1:poor quality control and engineering. 2:too much airflow at higher speeds. Finally:I'm betting the hood is not made very well, via the steel and or construction and so forth...basically made cheap to cut corners and to save money..in the majority of vehicles out there you really dont hear about a problem like this..Joe D. P.S.Sorry bout the earlier post but felt it necessary!
2K2 SE just turned 1000 miles. A fabulous car! What benefits result in adding Stillen air intake system? Is warranty voided? ballpark cost? Who can install? I live in South Jersey[suburb of Philly]. Also, would love to add a CD changer to base stereo. Any suggestions or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
I agree with every point you have made. I buy a Japanese or German nameplate because of the quality fit, finish and dependabilty inherent in these vehicles. My '00 SE clearly had 3/4's of an inch of vertical "play" in it brand new, off the truck. Fortunately, a dealer adjustment of the "stops" remedied the problem. I would continue to INSIST that the issue be corrected. Simply put, it is NOT suppose to be that way whether it's a $30,000 Max or a $10,000.00 Kia. Good luck!
Slade - it's against the law for them to void the warranty unless they can prove that the modded part is causing the problem. Plus, the Max is one of the most reliable cars there is, so I wouldn't worry too much.
Have any of you new owners been contacted yet? I had to call Nissan HQ to confirm - orig, my dealer knew nothing! Once they plugged my VIN # they confirmed my car was affected (along with about 38,999 others...lol). Had it done today - took less than an hour. NHTSA Campaign Number is 02V043000
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 02V043000 Component: FUEL:THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL Manufacturer: NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Year: 2002 Make: NISSAN Model: MAXIMA Recall Date: 02/14/2002
Type of Report: Vehicle Potential Number of Units Affected: 39000 Manufactured: 06/2001 - 10/2001 Defect Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM. THE STOPPER FOR THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WILL PREVENT EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT OF THE ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR. IF THE DRIVER APPLIES OVERLY EXCESSIVE FORCE TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE AT THE SAME TIME PUSHING IT TO THE RIGHT, THE PEDAL CAN "OVER TRAVEL" DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE PEDAL STOPPER. Consequence Summary: THIS WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP TO COME ON AND THE ENGINE SPEED TO BE SEVERELY LIMITED. IF THIS OCCURS UNEXPECTEDLY, IT COULD LEAD TO A CRASH. Corrective Summary: DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW ACCELERATOR PEDAL STOPPER. OWNER NOTIFICATION IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN IN MARCH 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 800-662-6200.
I only found out because the CarPoint site notified me (had previously registered there). Then verified with Nissan HQ...guess owners will be notified officially soon. Anyway, had the work done today, and like I said, took about 75 mins including the oil change.
Check with your local Nissan dealer - and make sure they have the parts in stock.
I just noticed this today on my 2002 SE. If I have the climate control set to either of the leftmost positions (upper ventilation, upper+lower ventilation) then the air recirculate feature works fine: the indicator light goes on/off when you toggle the button, and you can hear a slight change in the sound of the fan. However, as soon as I change the climate control to any of the three rightmost settings (lower ventilation, lower ventilation+defrost, defrost only), then the air recirculate feature doesn't work: it's always off.
Is this as designed? Does anyone else have the same behavior? Seems a bit odd...
It works that way in the Altima too. I understand the rationale for not allowing recirculate for defrost settings (because that would fog up the windows even more), but I have no idea why they don't allow it for the lower ventilation setting.
I was wondering if anyone has recently purchased a Max in the SE Michigan area, what price you got for what model/options, and where you got it from. Thanks in advance.
How fast have you guys gotten your Maximas? I am curious as to the top end, but haven't pushed mine over 90 mph for obvious reasons. Not really impressed with my 0-60 acceleration, but am pretty sure they would push 120+. Don't hurt yourselves trying to answer :-) !
Albatros what year do you have, I have an 02SE and a 97 SE and I love the acceleration in both. Stock at the track I got a 0-60 in my 02auto 6.61, quarter mile at 14.9@ 93.9 mph, and my 97auto 0-60 in 7.35 1/4 mile at 15.5@90.1 mph completely stock. All Maximas do pretty well for what they have especially the 4th gens with only 190HP. I have taken my 02SE up to 136 on the 190 In Dallas and my 97SE up to 135 on the 190.
you can remove the light...i tried it on my 02 GLE. if you leave the housing out, there will be a hole left in the rear deck. i tried just taking the bulb out and leaving the housing in but then i get a light on the dashboard telling me there's a bulb out. i ended up just leaving the center light connecte
My Max is a 2001 SE auto. I'm not complaining about the 0-60 time, but feel the car does a much better job at achieving a high-end rather than short bursts. I guess it's psychological, but the car is much louder than I would expect when trying to gun it from a standstill. Also, the maximum horsepower is at an RPM higher than the auto will actually let you get to (I've never been over 4K rpms even when flooring it). Just curious as to how fast it will get going...since there is never a good time to actually try this.
rwclifton, I too have an 02 GLE and I had a factory spoiler installed with the third light installed in the spoiler. The rear window light was removed and I had a cover installed. I know get the light on my dash everytime I put on the brakes..Is there an easy was to fix this . I don't want to go back to the dealer unless possible. I don't have the housing from the rear window light.
It is my opinion that the Maxima's engine may have been built for good top end, but the chassis, suspension and front wheel drive set up aren't. A BMW 5-series feels much more "planted" and stable to me at 120+ than my 1995 Maxima SE does at 100. Not that the Maxima isn't as good as or better than any Camry, Accord, Passat or other similar car out there. It just doesn't give me the same comfort factor at the higher speeds as the BMW. So the fact that my Maxima supposedly has a top speed of 140 doesn't mean any sane person should try testing the claim unless it's at Bonneville, with no possiblity of collateral damage.
P.S. Disclaimer - I don't advocate excessive speeding. My BMW experiences come from California and Arizona desert roads with no one else in sight.
I noticed in previous posts that many people were unable to get their Maximas fixed or repaired for whatever reason. I have a 01 Maxima GLE and it runs great (so far) with only one little thing to complain about, the alignment problem.
A few days after I purchased the vehicle back in September of 2001, the alignment problem was noticed. The car kept on bearing to the right for some reason. It is fixed now, but it took me about 4 ridiculous trips to the dealer to get it right. You have to be tough on them (to a point) so that they would do it right.
How to be TOUGH & PERSISTANT? I have a list of who to talk to so that they would get the message. If the first person on the list doesn't help, go to the next one on the list.
1. The Service Dept. Supervisor
2. The Dealer's General Manager
3. NISSAN CORPORATION (the last stand)
Although I was very happy with the dealership (Sales Dept.) that I purchased my vehicle from, I couldn't say the same thing for it's Service Dept.
The Service Dept. tried to brush me off about the alignment problem twice, so I had to head for another dealership to finally get the problem fixed and out of my mind.
At the original dealership, I was told by the Service Supervisor that my tires were too new to tell if anything was wrong with the alignment. And he said that they look at other areas but found no problems concerning the alignment. I was told to come back at the 3K oil change to see if the problem persisted. Ridiculous!
I went back at 3K oil change (free), but they still found nothing. However, this time the Supervisor said that my tire pressure was uneven and low. So that might have caused the problem. That was a pure lie. I set the tire pressure myself several days before, using my and a gas station's pressure gauge. The tire pressure was fine. I did not said anything. Knowing that my short temper would explode in front of this Moron of a Supervisor and bring the dealership down. I thought that I might come back later, so I backed off.
I went to another dealer (this time near my house) and told them of the alignment problem. To my suprise, they tell me the same crap regarding the tire PRESSURE!!!
Thus, I decided to directely call NISSAN CORP. and complain to them. They set up a second meeting with the 2nd dealership that I went to. Guess what?! They found the problem and FIXED it for good!!!
I had to go to the dealers, since it was a pretty new car and was still under warranty. But I do not know if I could claim after going to a private shop. But that's another story.
The bottom line, push them until they get it fixed. Go to the head or the head of the head, etc.. and tell them about the problem. Some dealers are pretty awful when it comes time to service your vehicle, they could be sneaky too.
It seems that my phone call to NISSAN CORP. really set them straight. The Dealers really do care about the image or feedback they get from the CORP. They need the approval of the CORP to get the benefits or previleges to better survive. The Service Supervisor at the 2nd dealership was pretty worried, and nicely asked me if everything was corrected or fixed to my satisfaction. The 1st dealership called me to apologies after receiving the notice from the CORP. They offered me free oil change again, but I would never trust them again.
I'm sticking with the 2nd dealership for service, now!
One thing, do not bad mouth too much. You never know if someone at the service dept. would go crazy and really fix your car (you know what I mean). Know where the line must be drawn.
TIRES:
I have 17" wheels with 225/50RV/17 Bridgestone Potenza tires. The 92RE type.
It is a pretty good high performance tire. However, every tire is created from different stacks of the same material. So there might be some minor differences on them. But enough to create, what seems to be, alignment problems.
Meaning, tires are made every day by the manufactures. The rubber or other materials they use would have slight differences with the stock they come with. Yesterday's stock of material might have slight different compounds compared to today's. Thus, creating slight uneven formations.
To actually tell if the alignment problem was caused by the tires. Switch or ask the mechanic to switch the tires to each side. Not front and back like a tire rotation. Drive the vehicle again, on an pretty well known flat road. If it bears to the opposite side after the switch, then it is the TIRES. Of course, make sure the Stearing Wheel is straight and not tilted slightly to one side in order to keep the car straight.
Well, I better stop here. I could start a book if I go further.
Comments
Go Nissan!
Thanks,
Quintin
I have a 2k1 Max SE. I believe the dash and radio are exactly the same. I just pulled my radio and tapped the speakers to add a sub.
A couple of things I noticed:
1) Most of the trim is easy to remove. Almost everything is snaps for the side trim and screws for the dash and glovebox.
2) The head unit is a double din opening. You should be able to fit both a radio and equalizer in if you want. I don't think the fit is a problem. It has two sets of standard attachment points. The problem will be the trim kit or something to finish it off.
The ac vents above the radio are an absolute pain to pull out. Pop the bottom of the vent up slightly (about 1/2" or so)from the top of the radio then pull it out towards you (rotating upwards slightly). It takes a lot of muscle. There are no screws holding it in (even though it seems like it).
3) Running power cable: I drilled a hole in the firewall just below and to the right of where my clutch cable goes through. You must be a little careful of the lines on the other side. I've heard of people removing the front left wheel and pulling the wheel well cover off to use an opening there. Either way, it works. Good luck.
Oh, and I save over 6k (compared to the dealer invoice) for not buying it new.
Talk about different tastes. lol!
P.S.: Now I can wait for the 2004 Maxima and not be "upside down".
Joe
By the way, before you go out and buy any Chrysler, GM or Ford product, you might want to try having the Maxima hood removed completely. You will still have a substantially better product, both mechanically and aesthetically.
Seriously, go give the Nissan dealer and customer service hell and get your problem fixed. Don't throw out the baby with the bath water. Good luck and keep us posted.
Where exactly do you see the hood flapping on your car ?
Roar1: the hood like in other newer Max's flaps towards the rear on the drivers side...my bet if I sat on the passenger side it would be the same thing..
To answer the question about the hood stops..yes they were adjusted to the maximum setting..only to minimize the flutter but at expense of looking ridiculous with a really wide gap between the grille and hood...TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE.....where as ...its left me with unfavorable choice of really noticable gap or hood flutter..
habitat1:dont worry ..I have no intentions of getting any Chrysler product...I was just making a point that if a 13,000 Chrysler product can have a normal hood...why cant my 30,000 Maxima..
And to find out its happening on the 2002's it's really heartbreaking at this level..
To me... its truly the Japanese following an old American tradition of poor quality control..Joe D.
#1. There are no adjustable hood stops on 5 th. gen. Maximas.
( none on my 2kgle anyway ). All you can do is replace the
permanent stops with thicker ones or add rubber shims to
the stops.
#2. What looks like a rubber stop is actually an electrical switch.
I believe it's tied into the anti-theft system.
#3. How can anyone SAFELY look at the left rear of the hood
while driving ( unless you are reading a book also ).
#4. The left rear of the hood ( and the right ) is the strongest part
because it is bolted to the hood hinges. I believe (imho) that
what someone may be seeing is actually reflections in the paint
from possible sheet metal movement . Folks, we're talking .002 in
( 2-thousands of an inch of movement). Not exactly what I would call
flapping.
#5. I have the name of a good doctor who specializes in advanced stages
AW disease.( anal whining)
#6. I also have the name of a good dentist for the gum problem (flapping)
All kidding aside, if you are one of the many ( what 2 ) people having this
problem, you had better have your vehicle checked for prior crash damage.
I can't believe I just wasted 3 minutes of my life writting about this ridiculus
topic. I gotta stop reading this board but, I do find it amusing.
However, I will agree with J.Dimotta with the way he explains how it happens. It is the exact same way with my vehicle. However, his Maxima was $30K and mine was only $25K, so I can see why he is more upset than me.
#1: YOU are wrong..there are(the name may be wrong)2 rubber stop devices under the hood at each corner that have nothing to do with the alarm in my 2001..I watched the service writer adjust both of them up and down to seee both results.
#2:You dont have to be looking at the hood directly to see this happening..its called perephial vision..do you have any?
#3:regardless of it being the strongest partt of the hood ..SO WHAT...IF...it was the front like you think we wouldnt be able to see this problem at all.What we are seeing is defenitly to the rear.
#4 What may be ridiculous to you...is obviously not so ridiculous to many others..and I mite add, trust me ...you'd be on this "band wagon of anal whiners" as well if this was happening to you...its not 2 people this is happening to ..it's many..so this is justifiable.
Guess you are online too much...take a break...........Joe D.
We can discuss our differing experiences and differing views without getting into personal attacks.
Thanks.
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board</I
Also, would it be possible to just get the hood replaced and see if that eliminates the problem?
Just some more ideas. Hope you can track this down!
P.S. My first posting. I bought a 2002 6-spd less than a week ago, and am loving it. The car I upgraded from: an '85 Accord! Absolutely no comparison. I have the Merlot - anyone else with that color?
Also, would it be possible to just get the hood replaced and see if that eliminates the problem?
Just some more ideas. Hope you can track this down!
P.S. My first posting. I bought a 2002 6-spd less than a week ago, and am loving it. The car I upgraded from: an '85 Accord! Absolutely no comparison. I have the Merlot - anyone else with that color?
I believe this is happening for a couple of reasons and I'll let it be:
1:poor quality control and engineering.
2:too much airflow at higher speeds.
Finally:I'm betting the hood is not made very well, via the steel and or construction and so forth...basically made cheap to cut corners and to save money..in the majority of vehicles out there you really dont hear about a problem like this..Joe D.
P.S.Sorry bout the earlier post but felt it necessary!
Japanese or German nameplate because of the quality
fit, finish and dependabilty inherent in these
vehicles. My '00 SE clearly had 3/4's of an inch
of vertical "play" in it brand new, off the truck.
Fortunately, a dealer adjustment of the "stops"
remedied the problem. I would continue to INSIST
that the issue be corrected. Simply put, it is NOT
suppose to be that way whether it's a $30,000 Max
or a $10,000.00 Kia. Good luck!
berbel
I think we would all like to know.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 02V043000
Component: FUEL:THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL
Manufacturer: NISSAN NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Year: 2002 Make: NISSAN Model: MAXIMA Recall Date: 02/14/2002
Type of Report: Vehicle
Potential Number of Units Affected: 39000
Manufactured: 06/2001 - 10/2001
Defect Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AN ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM. THE STOPPER FOR THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WILL PREVENT EXCESSIVE MOVEMENT OF THE ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR. IF THE DRIVER APPLIES OVERLY EXCESSIVE FORCE TO THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WHILE AT THE SAME TIME PUSHING IT TO THE RIGHT, THE PEDAL CAN "OVER TRAVEL" DUE TO THE DESIGN OF THE PEDAL STOPPER.
Consequence Summary:
THIS WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP TO COME ON AND THE ENGINE SPEED TO BE SEVERELY LIMITED. IF THIS OCCURS UNEXPECTEDLY, IT COULD LEAD TO A CRASH.
Corrective Summary:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW ACCELERATOR PEDAL STOPPER. OWNER NOTIFICATION IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN IN MARCH 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 800-662-6200.
Check with your local Nissan dealer - and make sure they have the parts in stock.
Is this as designed? Does anyone else have the same behavior? Seems a bit odd...
I too have an 02 GLE and I had a factory spoiler installed with the third light installed
in the spoiler. The rear window light was removed and I had a cover installed. I know
get the light on my dash everytime I put on the brakes..Is there an easy was to fix this .
I don't want to go back to the dealer unless possible. I don't have the housing from the rear window light.
P.S. Disclaimer - I don't advocate excessive speeding. My BMW experiences come from California and Arizona desert roads with no one else in sight.
I noticed in previous posts that many people were unable to get their Maximas fixed or repaired for whatever reason. I have a 01 Maxima GLE and it runs great (so far) with only one little thing to complain about, the alignment problem.
A few days after I purchased the vehicle back in September of 2001, the alignment problem was noticed. The car kept on bearing to the right for some reason. It is fixed now, but it took me about 4 ridiculous trips to the dealer to get it right. You have to be tough on them (to a point) so that they would do it right.
How to be TOUGH & PERSISTANT? I have a list of who to talk to so that they would get the message. If the first person on the list doesn't help, go to the next one on the list.
1. The Service Dept. Supervisor
2. The Dealer's General Manager
3. NISSAN CORPORATION (the last stand)
Although I was very happy with the dealership (Sales Dept.) that I purchased my vehicle from, I couldn't say the same thing for it's Service Dept.
The Service Dept. tried to brush me off about the alignment problem twice, so I had to head for another dealership to finally get the problem fixed and out of my mind.
At the original dealership, I was told by the Service Supervisor that my tires were too new to tell if anything was wrong with the alignment. And he said that they look at other areas but found no problems concerning the alignment. I was told to come back at the 3K oil change to see if the problem persisted. Ridiculous!
I went back at 3K oil change (free), but they still found nothing. However, this time the Supervisor said that my tire pressure was uneven and low. So that might have caused the problem. That was a pure lie. I set the tire pressure myself several days before, using my and a gas station's pressure gauge. The tire pressure was fine. I did not said anything. Knowing that my short temper would explode in front of this Moron of a Supervisor and bring the dealership down. I thought that I might come back later, so I backed off.
I went to another dealer (this time near my house) and told them of the alignment problem. To my suprise, they tell me the same crap regarding the tire PRESSURE!!!
Thus, I decided to directely call NISSAN CORP. and complain to them. They set up a second meeting with the 2nd dealership that I went to. Guess what?! They found the problem and FIXED it for good!!!
I had to go to the dealers, since it was a pretty new car and was still under warranty. But I do not know if I could claim after going to a private shop. But that's another story.
The bottom line, push them until they get it fixed. Go to the head or the head of the head, etc.. and tell them about the problem. Some dealers are pretty awful when it comes time to service your vehicle, they could be sneaky too.
It seems that my phone call to NISSAN CORP. really set them straight. The Dealers really do care about the image or feedback they get from the CORP. They need the approval of the CORP to get the benefits or previleges to better survive. The Service Supervisor at the 2nd dealership was pretty worried, and nicely asked me if everything was corrected or fixed to my satisfaction. The 1st dealership called me to apologies after receiving the notice from the CORP. They offered me free oil change again, but I would never trust them again.
I'm sticking with the 2nd dealership for service, now!
One thing, do not bad mouth too much. You never know if someone at the service dept. would go crazy and really fix your car (you know what I mean). Know where the line must be drawn.
TIRES:
I have 17" wheels with 225/50RV/17 Bridgestone Potenza tires. The 92RE type.
It is a pretty good high performance tire. However, every tire is created from different stacks of the same material. So there might be some minor differences on them. But enough to create, what seems to be, alignment problems.
Meaning, tires are made every day by the manufactures. The rubber or other materials they use would have slight differences with the stock they come with. Yesterday's stock of material might have slight different compounds compared to today's. Thus, creating slight uneven formations.
To actually tell if the alignment problem was caused by the tires. Switch or ask the mechanic to switch the tires to each side. Not front and back like a tire rotation. Drive the vehicle again, on an pretty well known flat road. If it bears to the opposite side after the switch, then it is the TIRES. Of course, make sure the Stearing Wheel is straight and not tilted slightly to one side in order to keep the car straight.
Well, I better stop here. I could start a book if I go further.