First person to offer me payoff on my 01 GLS gets it!! J/K. Haven't tried to sell or trade it yet, but the more I read about the 04 Cadillac CTS with the new engine, the more I want one. I am scared of what the value on my Intrigue is going to be though. I knew it would be pretty bad since the brand was being phased out, but some of these numbers being posted here are ridiculous. Yes, Oldsmobiles and being phased out, but we're not talking Daewoos here people. Negatives aside, these cars have some pretty decent hardware and from an engineering standpoint, I would put them up against the revered Japanese brands. Where Olds/GM has failed is execution as build quality seems to be the problem. That and spotty dealership service. Problems aside, I still love my black beauty and thinking back to what other alternatives were available at the same price point two years ago, there wasn't much else that appealed to me unless I went the used route.
Resale on Intrigues is not much worse (if at all) than any other domestic or second string Japanese model (like the 626). Of course it depends on where you live also. Bringing an Intrigue into a Honda store for trade is asking to get screwed IMO.
Of course people rarely take into account the incentives which have killed re-sale on many cars. Pay less get less for new owners, older owners get screwed. At least we got the C$2000 Olds loyalty off our Alero which made it a bargoon when combined with other incentives.
Yeah, that is a lot of money for a Honda but it has everything known to man including the nav system on it. It now appears it will be almost exactly 26k. It's worth it to me for the peace of mind. Right or wrong I have lost confidence in the Olds Intrigue. My brother in law owned an olds delaership for years in Grand Forks ND. He always laughed at Japanese cars. I asked him last month what his next car was and he honestly told me a Honda Odessey. Hummm wonder why that is. Cheers, Kenn
If it's really going to stick to a live axle, while all new Ford SUVs have independent suspension in the rear, it's going to be harder and harder to find an American car that suits my needs. As long as the remaining 2 American car manufacturers keep turning their backs to sedan buyers like me, they can forget my business. Not that I think that there are indisputable qualities in the import competition, rather that I think that there are fewer reasons everyday to buy either a Ford or a GM.
A happy owner of 4 new American cars, all I've ever owned.
I guess the price of the Accord has gone up a bit. When I bought my Intrigue in '99 I checked out the Accord EX V6, and I think it was around $22K. Of course it didn't have NAV back then. Seems like car prices are going up about $1K per year, is inflation that high?
At one point I thought about seeing what kind of a deal(or steal) I could get on an 03 Aurora 4.0 as they are nice cars, but the CTS is clearly a different class of car. If you want a nice ride and lots of gadgets, go with the Aurora and you will probably not be disappointed. But if you want a nice ride AND excellent handling and are willing to give up a few little extra things, the CTS is the way to go. And the CTS will likely hold it's value better than the Aurora will. My other problem with buying another Olds is I have been very disappointed with the service departments at two different dealers in the area. And then lastly, your buying a car that is from a brand that will be totally extinct in a year. Don't get me wrong, I've always liked Oldsmobiles and was really disappointed to see the brand was going to be phased out, but at this point I think it is time to move on and let the brand go.
evandro, I also read that the new Stang will keep the live axle except on Cobra models. I guess Ford feels now that the Camaro is dead, they don't have to worry about keeping up. Somebody may want to remind Ford there will soon be a new Pontiac in town and he'll be sporting a whoop-[non-permissible content removed] V8, IRS, 6 speed manual, and an Aussie accent. While all US automakers have really been focusing more on trucks and SUVs in recent years, Ford seems to be the one to be doing so at the expense of their other cars. In 2000, they could have made some upgrades to the Taurus to make a it a serious Camry/Accord fighter, instead they dumb it down(rear drum brakes, no SHO model, etc.) and make it even more popular with rental fleets.
the $4200 I got was about $300 less than Edmunds TMV for the 98 intrigue, but I've seen great fluctuations in trade-in values amongst the 3-4 major services with NADA being the highest. funny, the dealer showed me his NADA book saying $3800 for the intrigue (must be wholesale) Also what Honda dealer is gonna put an intrigue on his used car lot, with certified honda's available?
Yes the trade market AND the entire used car market is lousy. everyone wants new because of great financing and if not new, they want certified used, many coming with elusive extended warranties.
Don't kid yourself into thinking the Honda will be trouble free. Lots of issues with Hondas, especially these new models.
Even U$26K is more than I would spend on a midsize sedan. High end sedans like that loose a lot more in re-sale than the low to medium priced ones, even Hondas.
Well I just had my first oil change today at an Olds dealer. No problems yet. They seemed pretty nice there. Of course I haven't had a problem yet. I'm taking at trip out to Alberta in a couple weeks so I thought I should get it checked out before I left. So far so good, I wouldn't trade this car for anything YET.
Did you get the voice activated everything on your model? If so, how well does it work?
Now that Honda has put voice activation in a regular passenger vehicle, I suspect all midsized cars at least to have their drivers talking like they're the captain of the starship Enterprise within 5 years :-)
Yep, I got the voice activated system but I have only played with :{ Let me explain. They had to go find my car. Only three Red V6 Navi's in the state of Texas. Should have happened today but we have a small problem It's called Hurricane Claudette. We are experienced driving rain and 30 MPH winds here. It would not be so ba but we live right on the beautiful Guadalupe river which flooded us out last July. Soooo I have spent my time today watching weather radar and praying. Last time I talked to the dealer it should be in today or tomorrow. I promise to update you when I get it home. It sure was fun to play with though. I freely admint it is a 2k toy but that's the wonderful part of getting to that point in ones life when toys are affordable!! And, more importantly, my wife (who's car it is) said I could get it hehhe.
I pay just over 20k for my '98 Intrigue drive it for 18-months (18k miles), sold it for $15k just 6-months before the Oldsmobile announcement. That is 25% depreciation in only 18 short months. I had to sale it out-right in order to break even, as I could only get $12k trade (that was in June 2000).
Then bought a '01 Acura CL, paid just over $27k drove it for 3-years, with 36k miles and got $17k on trade in. That is 37% in 3 years, which is not too bad.
I’m not sure how well the Mazda-6 will do, not that I’m concern as my wife plans on keeping is for a long while. Assuming no major problems.
I think it is pretty well known that domestics simply depreciated way too rapidly, and one will really be upside-down if you paid close to MSRP.
Your Acura depreciated only 37% in 3 years and Honda is using a 53% residual on their 3 yr leases. They are making a killing when they get the car back from the customer.
Percentage-wise is only one way to look at it. Your Accura depreciated $10,000; the Olds half that at $5,000. Seems like the miles cost about the same. I paid $20,850 for my 2001 Firebird Formula and got $17,000 trade after two years. $3,850 for two years is not terribile for a car no longer in production. Of course, the other half of the equation (in terms of trading) is whether they are giving you more for your trade, or just allowing a little less profit on the new car you are buying. Six of one, half a dozen of another, as they say. Another over-stated blanket statement; that domestics are always worse. Some are better than others. Check depreciation (percentage-wise) on a Kia or Mitsubishi. Of course, if the Kia depreciates 75%, you've only lost about $1.50, right?
It is hard to say what would have happen, had if GM did not close Olds. However half of life is timing, and I know if I had waited another 6 months it would have been real hard to unload the Trig w/o losing my shirt. Otherwise it was a short term lease.
Wait a minute, keep in mind that the MSRP on my 20k Intrigue was 25k, so really we could be looking at 40% lost. Huge discounting is just one more thing that hurts the Big-3 value/deprecation.
Which is one of the things I complained about in the past, was a fully loaded Intrigue top out at over 30k. So does GM/Olds simple over-price, in order to allow the customer a perceived GOOD deal?? So what, get an up-front 5k discount, and then it loses another 5k, suddenly your 30k Intrigue/(GM) is only valued at 20k. This is why "Gap Insurance" was created.
Believe me, I’m not a big fan of Fords, but it is easier for Mazda (and others) to survive in this global world if they have a partner. However, I do like the direction that Mazda heading. Plus like the Olds/Intrigue, Mazdas are not like a dime a dozen like the CamCords. I believe that Mazda (being the underdogs), is working harder to compete with the best.
When I test drove the Mz6 (4-5 of them), I paid very close attention to the workmanship of the all the models on the lot, and I must say I was very impressed. Unlike many of the Oldsmobile back in ’98, where there were just too many things that were over-looked.
If my current 6 works out, I may consider the new RX8. My only problem would be transporting my four-legged watch dog. So plan "B" might be the 6 hatch/wagon, who knows that is a few months away.
Golf game is OK, I'm never really 100% satisfied. Plus as I get older my back is starting to cause me more pains.
It is in error to base depreciation based on MSRP when you indeed did not pay MSRP. You did not pay $25K, you paid $20K. Tell me how you "lost" that $5K.
When you buy a new car, in the first 1-2 years almost all cars lose value steeply.
You might have a valid point on that last issue, however about automakers overpricing initially then giving a big rebate. However, on the other hand, this approach gives the automakers a chance to remove or reduce the rebates should demand increase, without tinkering with the MSRP. However, it seems rebates have become more the norm than the exception these days, what with softening demand and overcapacity in the auto industry.
Best solution to beating the depreciation problems is if you buy new, drive it till it drops. Better yet, buy low mileage 1-3 year old car for which someone else paid that steep initial depreciation. All cars except a few collecter/exotic cars eventually depreciate to near $0.
If I remember correctly, back in 98 the Intrigue was priced at a more reasonable level. My 01 had a sticker just over $29K and while it was fully loaded with everything but the engine block heater, IMO that was too much for the car. Of coarse, I did not pay anything near that. Still, I think if they had kept the prices more in line with real world values, more people might have considered the car. You see a top line Intrigue on the lot for almost $30K and then see an Acura TL for nearly that same price, the typical buyer may figure that if he is going to spend that kind of money, might as well go with the Acura. GM now has that same problem internally as a base model Cadillac CTS lists for around $31K and a fully loaded Pontiac GP and Buick Regal GS now bump above $30K. While the loaded GP and Regal may have a few extra features the base Caddy lacks, anyone who knows anything about cars(and appreciates driving them) will tell you the CTS is the way to go at that price point. So needless to say the Regal and GP will get discounted pretty heavily. At $26K they are pretty decent sedans, so why can't GM just sell them at that price and quit with all the rebates and discounts?
10% differences between list and sale prices is nothing new. This is why I always say re-sale figures to make Honda always look so good are deceiving. The cash rebates and 0% financing is what has killed re-sale on many brands in the last 2 years.
Everyone expects GM and others to knock at least a couple of grand off a car, it's all part of the way it's always been done. Even Honda/ toyota discounts from list, though not as much.
V8 Camaros and Firebirds have excellent resale. CTS seems to be holding up pretty well resale wise. GM trucks had good resale until the big incentives came. Other than that no GM vehicle has good resale. But Intigue's is dismal. Especially on trade ins.
redline:: Oh yes I count my blessing on timing that sale. I may even feel lucky about dumping the CL, only time will tell. Plus I take real good care of all my cars, they are maintenance per schedule, & look almost as good as new (avg. 12k miles per year).
3trigs:: Last year I talked my daughter into a Protégé, vs. a Civic, saved several thousands. She had NO problems, plus she does not having to worry about the BIG Honda theft issues. Wished I had a ring-side view of a nice course.
Dindak:: I know you don't want to get into that Toyota/Honda thing, however Honda's pricing game is much more in-line with real world numbers. Back in 2000 a fully loaded Accord could be had for 25k or less, and for a couple more grand you could step-up into the Acura line. I find it hard to justify paying GM/Oldsmobile prices, especially with the steep deprecation rates, and then try selling one outright. Toyota is pricing gap is somewhat huge, a Camry goes to 18/16k all the way up and past the 30k mark.
I would rather take a few hundreds off a reasonable price car, rather than thousands off an over-price car. I guess it just depends on what makes a person feel like they got a reasonable good deal.
One other thing I will say regarding GM vs. Honda. GM was very lacking/slow in addressing their problems. I had to fight like heck to get them address issues (both corp. & dealer), seems like Olds was always hiding/decking from the problems. Acura always took care of things (big & small) plus the did not waste much time in extending warranty period on the transmissions.
The 98 Intrigues were priced very reasonable. My aunt got a 1998 Intrigue around the time they came out fully loaded @24K. Then when her lease was up in 2001, the Intrigue's price had rose to 23,5K for the base GX model. The loaded GLS model was around 30K fully loaded. That's a big price hike in three years for a bigger engine, PCS, wood trim, and heated seats.
Looked at '99 Honda Accord same day I test drove '99 Intrigue. Intrigue GX was $23,000. Honda V6 was a tad higher. I think GM was and still are pricing their midsize cars more than Accord because they are physically larger. Not as good quality just larger.
Even at list, the Intrigue was less than a V6 Accord when I bought. Less C$3K in negotiations and the lower finance rate at the time and it was no contest. The resale vs what I paid is not as bad, especially around here where Intrigue values are holding up vs other w-bodies.
Both of ours are just fine. Our 02 Alero had some paint come off the stereo buttons so they replaced the whole thing, which was a little excessive IMO. Otherwise it's just been oil changes and gas.
Does anyone have printable instructions/diagrams for performing the ISS lube? Going for an oil change soon and want to be able to show my mechanic how to do it.
Also, what aftermarket hi perf disc rotors are available? Checked out Wilwood's site, but it it ain't racing or a "tooner", you're out of luck. Also looked at Brembo, but same thing - Import/sport compact only. I want to put on some decent cross-drilled/vented rotors as I've decided to keep the 'Trig and want to upgrade what I can.
I've got a 98 and just turned 30,000 miles last night as I pulled in the driveway. Already replaced rear rotors and had front ones turned when car had about 9800 on it.....
Let me/us know what you think, plus they seem to carry a lot of products, but you just have to ask to see if some of those products might fit your Intrigue.
SLP used to have a big-brake upgrade for W-bodies. It upped the front rotors to 12", used the same calipers, and different pads. It was under $500. I can't find it on their website anymore, though.
I'd also recommend Auto Specialty Power Stop rotors. They are cross-drilled, have a plating to prevent rust, and aren't overly expensive. I put them on my Corvette a few years back and was pretty happy with them. I'd probably buy them for the 'Roara when I eventually need new brakes (unless GM Performance sells the Bonnie GXP's 14" front/13" rear brake package for G-bodies).
I know many have posted before, but I don't have time to go back and read all the past posts. My Intrigue will be in need of new tires pretty soon. I'm curioius to everyone's opinion on what would be a good choice for me. Mine has the the PCS system so it has the higher top speed and came from the factory with the Eagle RS-As. As for what I want in a tire, I want something that will at least handle and ride as well as the RS-As. A quieter tire would be nice, but I realize with a performance tire, there is going to be a trade off in ride quality. As for price, I don't want to pay a fortune, but again I realize to get a good performance/touring tire you are going to have to pay a bit. As for mileage, if they will last at 40,000 miles, that would be good. I've got 33K on the car now and the RS-As are pretty much down to their wear bars. Thanks in advance.
Oldsman01, I replaced my Goodyear Eagle LS which are S rated with Yokohama Avid Touring (S rated). I know the Goodyear RSA are H rated, so they have a stiffer sidewall that enhances handling. I am generally pleased with the Yokohamas as they are quiet and ride well. My Intrigue's primary function is to get me to work and back on crowded (slow 35 mph) city streets. Ugh. But I have done some interstate driving 100 miles at a stretch at speeds of 75mph+ and the tires were smooth, stable and quiet. The tread design is very similar to the Michelin MXV4Plus that we had on our Passat. Though you might give up some handling capabilties, for the price they're probably a good compromise. And since you have a CTS in your future, why put alot of $$ into tires now?
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
I recently put Yokohama Avid Touring on my Intrigue and I agree with sda. However, if you want to be on the sportier side, I was also considering the Bridgestone Touranza LS, but it was more expensive, that's why I passed it.
My brother got this Bridgestone model for his Volvo S70T and is very happy with them: very quiet and comfortable and quite good handling and traction.
Yet, I can't say anything about either tire performance on wet pavement, for neither I nor my brother have driven in the rain yet.
I paid about $78/tire mounted and balanced for the Yokohama Avid Touring. I shopped the internet for the best price and then took it to a local tire store that sells Yokohamas. I first asked them to give me an estimate for replacement. They quoted about $100/tire. Once I mentioned I could get them for xx, plus shipping, and xx for mounting and balance, they came down enough on their price to make it worthwile to buy from them. An advantage to that is I can now go to them for tire rotation/balance and any warranty adjustment that I might incur.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Yep, did the same. Took a print out from the TireRack web site and the guy at Discount Tire matched the price plus S&H, assembly and balancing, netting $74 per tire against TireRack's $54. Nice! ;-)
A couple of months ago I had the windows on my 2000 Intrigue tinted. I'm now noticing something about the inside rubber weather strip on the rear windows and wondering if that's the way it should be as compared to the front window inside weather strip. Are the rear window strips recessed into the door channel so that they can only been seen by looking down into the channel? The front window interior strips can be seen easily as they rise above the channel edge to grip the window. But the rear interior strips on my car are within the channel. Is this normal, or were they misplaced after the windows were tinted? Thanks.
The above dash indicaters have lit up twice lately on my 99 GL 3.5, both times when I reved the engine and then had to brake quickly. The first time I was pulling in my driveway and the second when I was trying to make a left turn in traffic. Each time, after I shut down and re-started the car, they went out. I spoke to a friend who has worked at GM dealers who indicated that when the engine drops belwo a certain RPM, the voltage drops and these three dash sensor lights come on, and then go out when the car is restarted. He didnt think it was a big deal, and felt the dealer would not be able to replicate it. Has anyone else had this problem and is it something I should go to the dealer about under my extended warranty? Im concerned becaused I recently had the alternater replaced due to the lights flickering.
My '00 GLS had a similar problem...the warning lights would just randomly start flashing in no particular pattern. Mine never remained lighted for more than 3 or 4 seconds at a time, however. Sometimes it would happen once in a day, other times every 5 seconds. The dealer traced the problem to a "loose wire" connected to one of the ABS sensors.
RSM Racing does not offer any Intrigue products. When I e-mailed to ask what they had, their reply was that the car was not around long enough for them to develop any parts!!
I also couldn't get a straight answer whether I could use Grand Prix rotors/calipers/pads.
SLP offers nothing for the 'Trig, either. If someone would just say that ANY W-body parts would work on ALL W-bodies, I'd be happy and they could make more $.....
Since I decided to keep the 'Trig, I haven't had any luck finding upgrade parts!
Wife will be getting either a Nissan Altima or Hyundai XG350L to replace her 91 Toyota Tercel - talked her out of an SUV! Parts will be easier to get for these Asian cars than the Olds...
If anyone finds out the "real truth" on W-body parts, please post it here!
2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue V6-214 3.5L VIN H SFI - Steering - Clunk Noise While Turning
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Subject: Clunk Noise From Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft) Models: 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 180°of steering wheel rotation in either direction for J-cars (Cavalier and Sunfire). However, some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360°of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel. This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern. Cause This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise. Correction Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service procedure listed below.
1.Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
2.Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
3.Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit in the aluminum end of the yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the yoke and dispense the full content of the syringe.
4.Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication kit into the yoke opening.
5.Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the yoke should press the rubber plug in. Important: Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of the solid shaft. 6.Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is best to use a pumping action when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft as far as possible.
7.Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.
8.Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart. 9.Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of grease on the shaft splines. 10.Repeat steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft splines. Important: Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to stroke and extend the intermediate shaft at least 15 TIMES to completely lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint. 11.Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information
The Intrigue is definitely the shining star with only the ISS and rack under warranty. The Alero has had numerous problems under warranty. 1. Loose tie rod ends, rack replaced 2. fouled injector, replaced. 3. Blower motor resistor, low speed quit. 4. Blower motor resistor again, out of warranty, but covered anyway. Excellent dealer service. 5. Iss shaft lubrication 6. Noisy squeaky front end during right hand turns. Lubricated sway bar bushings with no help. Today I, (in desperation) sprayed silicone lubricant into the right strut tower rubber support. Wala, the thing is running quite. There are some gaps around the circumference of the rubber support and this is where I sprayed the silicone lubricant. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Conservative Semi City driving 25-26 mpg on Alero 22-23 mpg on the Intrigue. Hyw. 30-31 on the alero 31-34 on the Intrigue GX with 3.08 gears.
I always dread the day the water pump goes out on the Alero at about $700.00 to $800.00 dealer replacement cost. For that reason alone I covet the new 2.2 Ecotec engine. But one would think with ten years or so experience the Quad 4 would be perfected. However, the Mfgs. look more to cost reduction than product improvement. So who knows?
Boy, I've never seen this forum so quiet! With the cooler weather we've been having (70-80F) I have really noticed that my 3.5 Intrigue feels alot perkier than when the temperature is much warmer. I hadn't realized the significant difference cooler temps make in the response of the engine. I had to replace one of my daylight running lights. When I tried to use the turnsignal, I got a really rapid flashing of the turnsignal arrow. Luckily the rear signal was still working (but flashing very quickly), but the right front had burned out (not flashing/dead). I was able to buy a 2 pack of replacement bulbs for about $5, and it took less than 5 minutes to replace. Olds really engineered the headlight assemblies for easy bulb replacement. Pull two white securing tabs, move assembly out, pull black stopper plug, twist bulb socket, replace bulb. Reverse assembly to reinstall. It was so easy. I would hate to think what the dealer would have charged to do this...
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
You are so right about the engineering of the lamp [non-permissible content removed]. removal. Very slick.
Now if they only knew how to make an alternator to keep the head lamps lit.
Thats the problem i have with gm, on some things they blow you right out of the water with the simplicity and ease, like the headlamp assembly. Then go and screw up the lighting of a headlights with a sub par alt. and to throw salt into the wound they stick the alt. in a place that takes 4+ hours to get at and requires removing or moving half the bloody stuff under the hood. Shame on GM(general morons)
Really: alts and headlights have been around forever.
Comments
Of course people rarely take into account the incentives which have killed re-sale on many cars. Pay less get less for new owners, older owners get screwed. At least we got the C$2000 Olds loyalty off our Alero which made it a bargoon when combined with other incentives.
My '01 Impala has now inherited the banging suspension from my Intrigue.
Must be genetic
Not doing FWD again especially with the power levels I am looking for.
A happy owner of 4 new American cars, all I've ever owned.
evandro, I also read that the new Stang will keep the live axle except on Cobra models. I guess Ford feels now that the Camaro is dead, they don't have to worry about keeping up. Somebody may want to remind Ford there will soon be a new Pontiac in town and he'll be sporting a whoop-[non-permissible content removed] V8, IRS, 6 speed manual, and an Aussie accent. While all US automakers have really been focusing more on trucks and SUVs in recent years, Ford seems to be the one to be doing so at the expense of their other cars. In 2000, they could have made some upgrades to the Taurus to make a it a serious Camry/Accord fighter, instead they dumb it down(rear drum brakes, no SHO model, etc.) and make it even more popular with rental fleets.
Yes the trade market AND the entire used car market is lousy. everyone wants new because of great financing and if not new, they want certified used, many coming with elusive extended warranties.
winbro AKA tinoman
Even U$26K is more than I would spend on a midsize sedan. High end sedans like that loose a lot more in re-sale than the low to medium priced ones, even Hondas.
I'm taking at trip out to Alberta in a couple weeks so I thought I should get it checked out before I left. So far so good, I wouldn't trade this car for anything YET.
Now that Honda has put voice activation in a regular passenger vehicle, I suspect all midsized cars at least to have their drivers talking like they're the captain of the starship Enterprise within 5 years :-)
Cheers, Kenn
Thanks
Marty
Then bought a '01 Acura CL, paid just over $27k drove it for 3-years, with 36k miles and got $17k on trade in. That is 37% in 3 years, which is not too bad.
I’m not sure how well the Mazda-6 will do, not that I’m concern as my wife plans on keeping is for a long while. Assuming no major problems.
I think it is pretty well known that domestics simply depreciated way too rapidly, and one will really be upside-down if you paid close to MSRP.
Honda is using a 53% residual on their 3 yr leases.
They are making a killing when they get the car back from the customer.
Wait a minute, keep in mind that the MSRP on my 20k Intrigue was 25k, so really we could be looking at 40% lost. Huge discounting is just one more thing that hurts the Big-3 value/deprecation.
Which is one of the things I complained about in the past, was a fully loaded Intrigue top out at over 30k. So does GM/Olds simple over-price, in order to allow the customer a perceived GOOD deal?? So what, get an up-front 5k discount, and then it loses another 5k, suddenly your 30k Intrigue/(GM) is only valued at 20k. This is why "Gap Insurance" was created.
Believe me, I’m not a big fan of Fords, but it is easier for Mazda (and others) to survive in this global world if they have a partner. However, I do like the direction that Mazda heading. Plus like the Olds/Intrigue, Mazdas are not like a dime a dozen like the CamCords. I believe that Mazda (being the underdogs), is working harder to compete with the best.
When I test drove the Mz6 (4-5 of them), I paid very close attention to the workmanship of the all the models on the lot, and I must say I was very impressed. Unlike many of the Oldsmobile back in ’98, where there were just too many things that were over-looked.
If my current 6 works out, I may consider the new RX8. My only problem would be transporting my four-legged watch dog. So plan "B" might be the 6 hatch/wagon, who knows that is a few months away.
Golf game is OK, I'm never really 100% satisfied. Plus as I get older my back is starting to cause me more pains.
When you buy a new car, in the first 1-2 years almost all cars lose value steeply.
You might have a valid point on that last issue, however about automakers overpricing initially then giving a big rebate. However, on the other hand, this approach gives the automakers a chance to remove or reduce the rebates should demand increase, without tinkering with the MSRP. However, it seems rebates have become more the norm than the exception these days, what with softening demand and overcapacity in the auto industry.
Best solution to beating the depreciation problems is if you buy new, drive it till it drops. Better yet, buy low mileage 1-3 year old car for which someone else paid that steep initial depreciation. All cars except a few collecter/exotic cars eventually depreciate to near $0.
I'd say you did pretty well on that deal.
CTS seems to be holding up pretty well resale wise.
GM trucks had good resale until the big incentives came.
Other than that no GM vehicle has good resale.
But Intigue's is dismal.
Especially on trade ins.
3trigs:: Last year I talked my daughter into a Protégé, vs. a Civic, saved several thousands. She had NO problems, plus she does not having to worry about the BIG Honda theft issues. Wished I had a ring-side view of a nice course.
Dindak:: I know you don't want to get into that Toyota/Honda thing, however Honda's pricing game is much more in-line with real world numbers. Back in 2000 a fully loaded Accord could be had for 25k or less, and for a couple more grand you could step-up into the Acura line. I find it hard to justify paying GM/Oldsmobile prices, especially with the steep deprecation rates, and then try selling one outright. Toyota is pricing gap is somewhat huge, a Camry goes to 18/16k all the way up and past the 30k mark.
I would rather take a few hundreds off a reasonable price car, rather than thousands off an over-price car. I guess it just depends on what makes a person feel like they got a reasonable good deal.
One other thing I will say regarding GM vs. Honda. GM was very lacking/slow in addressing their problems. I had to fight like heck to get them address issues (both corp. & dealer), seems like Olds was always hiding/decking from the problems. Acura always took care of things (big & small) plus the did not waste much time in extending warranty period on the transmissions.
Intrigue GX was $23,000. Honda V6 was a tad higher.
I think GM was and still are pricing their midsize cars more than Accord because they are physically larger.
Not as good quality just larger.
;-)
Both of ours are just fine. Our 02 Alero had some paint come off the stereo buttons so they replaced the whole thing, which was a little excessive IMO. Otherwise it's just been oil changes and gas.
Also, what aftermarket hi perf disc rotors are available? Checked out Wilwood's site, but it it ain't racing or a "tooner", you're out of luck. Also looked at Brembo, but same thing - Import/sport compact only. I want to put on some decent cross-drilled/vented rotors as I've decided to keep the 'Trig and want to upgrade what I can.
I've got a 98 and just turned 30,000 miles last night as I pulled in the driveway. Already replaced rear rotors and had front ones turned when car had about 9800 on it.....
Deke
Here is the picture
You might want to try on contact them at their website to see if they would fit an Intrigue.
The website is http://www.rsmracing.com/
Let me/us know what you think, plus they seem to carry a lot of products, but you just have to ask to see if some of those products might fit your Intrigue.
I'd also recommend Auto Specialty Power Stop rotors. They are cross-drilled, have a plating to prevent rust, and aren't overly expensive. I put them on my Corvette a few years back and was pretty happy with them. I'd probably buy them for the 'Roara when I eventually need new brakes (unless GM Performance sells the Bonnie GXP's 14" front/13" rear brake package for G-bodies).
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
My brother got this Bridgestone model for his Volvo S70T and is very happy with them: very quiet and comfortable and quite good handling and traction.
Yet, I can't say anything about either tire performance on wet pavement, for neither I nor my brother have driven in the rain yet.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
;-)Ken
I also couldn't get a straight answer whether I could use Grand Prix rotors/calipers/pads.
SLP offers nothing for the 'Trig, either. If someone would just say that ANY W-body parts would work on ALL W-bodies, I'd be happy and they could make more $.....
Since I decided to keep the 'Trig, I haven't had any luck finding upgrade parts!
Wife will be getting either a Nissan Altima or Hyundai XG350L to replace her 91 Toyota Tercel - talked her out of an SUV! Parts will be easier to get for these Asian cars than the Olds...
If anyone finds out the "real truth" on W-body parts, please post it here!
Deke
.
Subject:
Clunk Noise From Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel
Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft)
Models:
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the
vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the
steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from
steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once
for every 180°of steering wheel rotation in either direction for J-cars
(Cavalier and Sunfire). However, some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once
for every 360°of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be
noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns
of the steering wheel.
This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and
has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting
the concern.
Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering
intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting
in the clunk noise.
Correction
Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft
with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service
procedure listed below.
1.Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to
Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
2.Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
3.Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit
in the aluminum end of the yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as
possible into the yoke and dispense the full content of the syringe.
4.Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication
kit into the yoke opening.
5.Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the
yoke should press the rubber plug in.
Important: Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of
the solid shaft.
6.Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is
best to use a pumping action when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft
as far as possible.
7.Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.
8.Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart.
9.Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of
grease on the shaft splines.
10.Repeat steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft
splines.
Important: Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to
stroke and extend the intermediate shaft at least 15 TIMES to completely
lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint.
11.Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to
Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
1. Loose tie rod ends, rack replaced
2. fouled injector, replaced.
3. Blower motor resistor, low speed quit.
4. Blower motor resistor again, out of warranty, but covered anyway. Excellent dealer service.
5. Iss shaft lubrication
6. Noisy squeaky front end during right hand turns. Lubricated sway bar bushings with no help.
Today I, (in desperation) sprayed silicone lubricant into the right strut tower rubber support. Wala, the thing is running quite. There are some gaps around the circumference of the rubber support and this is where I sprayed the silicone lubricant. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Conservative Semi City driving 25-26 mpg on Alero 22-23 mpg on the Intrigue. Hyw. 30-31 on the alero 31-34 on the Intrigue GX with 3.08 gears.
I always dread the day the water pump goes out on the Alero at about $700.00 to $800.00 dealer replacement cost. For that reason alone I covet the new 2.2 Ecotec engine. But one would think with ten years or so experience the Quad 4 would be perfected. However, the Mfgs. look more to cost reduction than product improvement. So who knows?
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Now if they only knew how to make an alternator to keep the head lamps lit.
Thats the problem i have with gm, on some things they blow you right out of the water with the simplicity and ease, like the headlamp assembly. Then go and screw up the lighting of a headlights with a sub par alt. and to throw salt into the wound they stick the alt. in a place that takes 4+ hours to get at and requires removing or moving half the bloody stuff under the hood. Shame on GM(general morons)
Really: alts and headlights have been around forever.