Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Of course people rarely take into account the incentives which have killed re-sale on many cars. Pay less get less for new owners, older owners get screwed. At least we got the C$2000 Olds loyalty off our Alero which made it a bargoon when combined with other incentives.
My '01 Impala has now inherited the banging suspension from my Intrigue.
Must be genetic
Not doing FWD again especially with the power levels I am looking for.
A happy owner of 4 new American cars, all I've ever owned.
evandro, I also read that the new Stang will keep the live axle except on Cobra models. I guess Ford feels now that the Camaro is dead, they don't have to worry about keeping up. Somebody may want to remind Ford there will soon be a new Pontiac in town and he'll be sporting a whoop-[non-permissible content removed] V8, IRS, 6 speed manual, and an Aussie accent. While all US automakers have really been focusing more on trucks and SUVs in recent years, Ford seems to be the one to be doing so at the expense of their other cars. In 2000, they could have made some upgrades to the Taurus to make a it a serious Camry/Accord fighter, instead they dumb it down(rear drum brakes, no SHO model, etc.) and make it even more popular with rental fleets.
Yes the trade market AND the entire used car market is lousy. everyone wants new because of great financing and if not new, they want certified used, many coming with elusive extended warranties.
winbro AKA tinoman
Even U$26K is more than I would spend on a midsize sedan. High end sedans like that loose a lot more in re-sale than the low to medium priced ones, even Hondas.
I'm taking at trip out to Alberta in a couple weeks so I thought I should get it checked out before I left. So far so good, I wouldn't trade this car for anything YET.
Now that Honda has put voice activation in a regular passenger vehicle, I suspect all midsized cars at least to have their drivers talking like they're the captain of the starship Enterprise within 5 years :-)
Cheers, Kenn
Thanks
Marty
Then bought a '01 Acura CL, paid just over $27k drove it for 3-years, with 36k miles and got $17k on trade in. That is 37% in 3 years, which is not too bad.
I’m not sure how well the Mazda-6 will do, not that I’m concern as my wife plans on keeping is for a long while. Assuming no major problems.
I think it is pretty well known that domestics simply depreciated way too rapidly, and one will really be upside-down if you paid close to MSRP.
Honda is using a 53% residual on their 3 yr leases.
They are making a killing when they get the car back from the customer.
Wait a minute, keep in mind that the MSRP on my 20k Intrigue was 25k, so really we could be looking at 40% lost. Huge discounting is just one more thing that hurts the Big-3 value/deprecation.
Which is one of the things I complained about in the past, was a fully loaded Intrigue top out at over 30k. So does GM/Olds simple over-price, in order to allow the customer a perceived GOOD deal?? So what, get an up-front 5k discount, and then it loses another 5k, suddenly your 30k Intrigue/(GM) is only valued at 20k. This is why "Gap Insurance" was created.
Believe me, I’m not a big fan of Fords, but it is easier for Mazda (and others) to survive in this global world if they have a partner. However, I do like the direction that Mazda heading. Plus like the Olds/Intrigue, Mazdas are not like a dime a dozen like the CamCords. I believe that Mazda (being the underdogs), is working harder to compete with the best.
When I test drove the Mz6 (4-5 of them), I paid very close attention to the workmanship of the all the models on the lot, and I must say I was very impressed. Unlike many of the Oldsmobile back in ’98, where there were just too many things that were over-looked.
If my current 6 works out, I may consider the new RX8. My only problem would be transporting my four-legged watch dog. So plan "B" might be the 6 hatch/wagon, who knows that is a few months away.
Golf game is OK, I'm never really 100% satisfied. Plus as I get older my back is starting to cause me more pains.
When you buy a new car, in the first 1-2 years almost all cars lose value steeply.
You might have a valid point on that last issue, however about automakers overpricing initially then giving a big rebate. However, on the other hand, this approach gives the automakers a chance to remove or reduce the rebates should demand increase, without tinkering with the MSRP. However, it seems rebates have become more the norm than the exception these days, what with softening demand and overcapacity in the auto industry.
Best solution to beating the depreciation problems is if you buy new, drive it till it drops. Better yet, buy low mileage 1-3 year old car for which someone else paid that steep initial depreciation. All cars except a few collecter/exotic cars eventually depreciate to near $0.
I'd say you did pretty well on that deal.
CTS seems to be holding up pretty well resale wise.
GM trucks had good resale until the big incentives came.
Other than that no GM vehicle has good resale.
But Intigue's is dismal.
Especially on trade ins.
3trigs:: Last year I talked my daughter into a Protégé, vs. a Civic, saved several thousands. She had NO problems, plus she does not having to worry about the BIG Honda theft issues. Wished I had a ring-side view of a nice course.
Dindak:: I know you don't want to get into that Toyota/Honda thing, however Honda's pricing game is much more in-line with real world numbers. Back in 2000 a fully loaded Accord could be had for 25k or less, and for a couple more grand you could step-up into the Acura line. I find it hard to justify paying GM/Oldsmobile prices, especially with the steep deprecation rates, and then try selling one outright. Toyota is pricing gap is somewhat huge, a Camry goes to 18/16k all the way up and past the 30k mark.
I would rather take a few hundreds off a reasonable price car, rather than thousands off an over-price car. I guess it just depends on what makes a person feel like they got a reasonable good deal.
One other thing I will say regarding GM vs. Honda. GM was very lacking/slow in addressing their problems. I had to fight like heck to get them address issues (both corp. & dealer), seems like Olds was always hiding/decking from the problems. Acura always took care of things (big & small) plus the did not waste much time in extending warranty period on the transmissions.
Intrigue GX was $23,000. Honda V6 was a tad higher.
I think GM was and still are pricing their midsize cars more than Accord because they are physically larger.
Not as good quality just larger.
;-)
Both of ours are just fine. Our 02 Alero had some paint come off the stereo buttons so they replaced the whole thing, which was a little excessive IMO. Otherwise it's just been oil changes and gas.
Also, what aftermarket hi perf disc rotors are available? Checked out Wilwood's site, but it it ain't racing or a "tooner", you're out of luck. Also looked at Brembo, but same thing - Import/sport compact only. I want to put on some decent cross-drilled/vented rotors as I've decided to keep the 'Trig and want to upgrade what I can.
I've got a 98 and just turned 30,000 miles last night as I pulled in the driveway. Already replaced rear rotors and had front ones turned when car had about 9800 on it.....
Deke
Here is the picture
You might want to try on contact them at their website to see if they would fit an Intrigue.
The website is http://www.rsmracing.com/
Let me/us know what you think, plus they seem to carry a lot of products, but you just have to ask to see if some of those products might fit your Intrigue.
I'd also recommend Auto Specialty Power Stop rotors. They are cross-drilled, have a plating to prevent rust, and aren't overly expensive. I put them on my Corvette a few years back and was pretty happy with them. I'd probably buy them for the 'Roara when I eventually need new brakes (unless GM Performance sells the Bonnie GXP's 14" front/13" rear brake package for G-bodies).
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
My brother got this Bridgestone model for his Volvo S70T and is very happy with them: very quiet and comfortable and quite good handling and traction.
Yet, I can't say anything about either tire performance on wet pavement, for neither I nor my brother have driven in the rain yet.
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
;-)Ken
I also couldn't get a straight answer whether I could use Grand Prix rotors/calipers/pads.
SLP offers nothing for the 'Trig, either. If someone would just say that ANY W-body parts would work on ALL W-bodies, I'd be happy and they could make more $.....
Since I decided to keep the 'Trig, I haven't had any luck finding upgrade parts!
Wife will be getting either a Nissan Altima or Hyundai XG350L to replace her 91 Toyota Tercel - talked her out of an SUV! Parts will be easier to get for these Asian cars than the Olds...
If anyone finds out the "real truth" on W-body parts, please post it here!
Deke
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Subject:
Clunk Noise From Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel
Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft)
Models:
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the
vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the
steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from
steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once
for every 180°of steering wheel rotation in either direction for J-cars
(Cavalier and Sunfire). However, some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once
for every 360°of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be
noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns
of the steering wheel.
This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and
has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting
the concern.
Cause
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering
intermediate shaft which results in a "slip stick" condition possibly resulting
in the clunk noise.
Correction
Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft
with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service
procedure listed below.
1.Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to
Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
2.Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.
3.Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit
in the aluminum end of the yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as
possible into the yoke and dispense the full content of the syringe.
4.Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication
kit into the yoke opening.
5.Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the
yoke should press the rubber plug in.
Important: Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of
the solid shaft.
6.Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is
best to use a pumping action when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft
as far as possible.
7.Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft.
8.Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart.
9.Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of
grease on the shaft splines.
10.Repeat steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft
splines.
Important: Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to
stroke and extend the intermediate shaft at least 15 TIMES to completely
lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint.
11.Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to
Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
1. Loose tie rod ends, rack replaced
2. fouled injector, replaced.
3. Blower motor resistor, low speed quit.
4. Blower motor resistor again, out of warranty, but covered anyway. Excellent dealer service.
5. Iss shaft lubrication
6. Noisy squeaky front end during right hand turns. Lubricated sway bar bushings with no help.
Today I, (in desperation) sprayed silicone lubricant into the right strut tower rubber support. Wala, the thing is running quite. There are some gaps around the circumference of the rubber support and this is where I sprayed the silicone lubricant. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Conservative Semi City driving 25-26 mpg on Alero 22-23 mpg on the Intrigue. Hyw. 30-31 on the alero 31-34 on the Intrigue GX with 3.08 gears.
I always dread the day the water pump goes out on the Alero at about $700.00 to $800.00 dealer replacement cost. For that reason alone I covet the new 2.2 Ecotec engine. But one would think with ten years or so experience the Quad 4 would be perfected. However, the Mfgs. look more to cost reduction than product improvement. So who knows?
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
Now if they only knew how to make an alternator to keep the head lamps lit.
Thats the problem i have with gm, on some things they blow you right out of the water with the simplicity and ease, like the headlamp assembly. Then go and screw up the lighting of a headlights with a sub par alt. and to throw salt into the wound they stick the alt. in a place that takes 4+ hours to get at and requires removing or moving half the bloody stuff under the hood. Shame on GM(general morons)
Really: alts and headlights have been around forever.