Thanks evandro, that seems to be the smart way to go.
I have an appointment to get my oil changed tomorrow. The manual calls for 5w30 when the temp gets 20 below zero. The guy at the station recommended 10W30 until I showed him the manual. Which one do you guys use, the 5W30 or the 10W30? It's been real cold here in Massachusetts..
The Change Oil system light on the Intrigues is designed to display at about 7500 miles. I usually change mine at about 6-7000, and do it myself. It still looks clean at that mileage. I check the oil when I wash it, about twice monthly. My 3.8 uses about 1qt. every 4k miles with 78k on the clock. I consider that normal. It also has a seep from the pan, but not enough to worry about. I only drive about 8-10k miles per year. I buy Quaker State 10/30 and Fram filters as San Diego has very mild weather. Hope that helps.
The filter is under the cowl cover, below where the wipers rest.
In order to replace it, turn the ignition off when the wipers are still vertical on the windshield. Open the hood and gently work the clips of the left cover up with some V-shaped tool (I broke off both when I tried with a flat screw driver). Then you can see the paper filter on the far left side. Pull the filter out horizontally and then insert the new one by reversing this procedure. Put everything back in and you're done.
The lights behind some buttons of both the radio and the auto AC went off. I removed the AC control and it uses some very small incandescent bulbs soldered on the circuit board. Have others had the problem? How come 5 bulbs in 2 separate accessories go out at about the same time, should I be worried of electrical problems? Any idea on where to get replacements?
Did you/could you see if the filament was still intact on any of the non functioning ones? I know, there tiny.
Did they all go out at once, or one at a time?
You could call the dealer for a querry on the bulbs, and for a laugh find out the price of the unit if that is neccessary, but i seem to remember someone elsewhere saying the dealer replaced his HVAC module for this problem. Not sure if it was in or out of warranty.
If you could measure the voltage at the bulbs, you can get mini lamps like that at electronics distributors.
They would need to know the voltage and physical size. Take one to them. There is about a million different kinds: current, voltage, size, base, socket. Those have no socket. You may find the size and voltage and have differnt currents. Current is proportional to the light output. However, a higher current will also make it hotter and if i remember, they are recessed into some buttons. To hot a bulb may overheat and melt some plastic.
Thanks - next time I'm in the trunk, I'll look, but don't remember if there's anything like that listed. I have the tutorial - with pics - of the replacement. I'll have to wait until warmer weather, though!
manual recommend 5w30, but 10w30 is suppose to be better in winter (thicker),what do you guys think? i changed my oil every 5000 km, but last year i check my dip stick and it's dry! Went to get an oil change and they told me it's nothing to worry about?
The Intrigue wasn't bad in terms of torque steer and even Cadillac's FWD Northstars weren't bad as the SLS I had as a rental a few years back had less torque steer than my Intrigue did. And I really put that Northstar through it's paces:) Nearly every review of the Altima and also the new Maxima report serious torque steer. Like I said before, the Mazda 6 may lack some of the punch of the Altima, but it more than makes up for it in refinement. But to totally get away from torque steer, RWD is the way to go. I don't know that I'll ever go back to a FWD car.
dek, my wording was off, the only thing that would show on the label is 'K11'. Mixed in there somewhere with a zillion other codes. The description of the code, was just a cut and paste.
You want to use thinner oil in winter. As temperatures drop, oil gets thicker and resists flowing where it needs to until the engine warms. This reduces lubrication during initial start and warm-up period. Thinner oil flows more freely at lower temperatures and therefore provides better lubrication at this critical period. BTW, the "change oil" light comes on anywhere from about 5,500 to 7,800 miles in my 99 3.5 Intrigue. It has almost 90,000 on it, and uses about half a quart between changes (5,000 miles).
Well after several very cold weather drives through snow with heat on, defroster on, fogs on ect., I can clearly see all is well with my Intrigue in terms of the alternator. Obviously there is a fix, why a few people have not been able to get a fix is a mystery to me. Car is running better than ever after almost 4 years. Hopefully that continues as I want to keep her for another 4.
They went out in groups in my '00 Intrigue, and the circuit of all lights in the radio and in the AC control is parallel.
I've found some 14V micro-bulbs in the web, but not only does the current vary, so does the light output. I was hoping that someone would have that information handy...
I guess I'll have to get some samples and check out which ones are equivalent.
Well, I went to my local Shell station and got an oil change.. I had them use 5W30 and told one of the guys that I wanted them to use bottles of oil and not the big oil pump.. He said ok.. Another guy was doing the oil change and I noticed that he was filling it with the oil pumper stuff.. I went to the manager and told him that I wanted the bottles. He apologized and said it was the same thing.. I was pissed but I figured how much different it could be.. I won't be going back..
I wonder if they changed the oil filter after reading how difficult it is in post #10770... I'll have to take a look..
I do add a quart at ~4k. It usually takes me a few months to go that far though. So, when I check it, I always make sure its at least at the mid-point of the cross-hatched area of the dipstick. That way its always full. Oil is cheap and since the consumption level is low, its never really an issue. If you check under the hood every couple of weeks, you should be able to see any trends. Good luck.
Oops, that's what i meant. Thinner oil in winter for easier start, and thicker oil in summer so it won't overheat. Often the dealer forget to reset the oil sensor switch, and the light comes on soon after an oil change. Just spent $35+ to do my emission test (so i can renew my plate) at only 32,000 km, government is ripping us off
You could drive in single digit temps with the heater fan on high, headlights on bright, both seat heaters on, the rear defogger on, and the radio cranked in my Intrigue and it wouldn't flicker. The flicker occured when the temps were milder and the electrical system lightly loaded. This is what baffled me as one would think a full load would be more likely to bring out flaws in the electrical system. I got a new alternator on mine but that didn't help, in fact the flicker got worse after the new one was put on. Weird.
I know most Intrigue owners here have the 3.5, but has anyone with a 3800 equipped Intrigue had a problem with coolant leaks? The reason I ask is someone I know who has a 98 LeSabre has a major problem that just started. The engine seems to be sucking coolant into it! The coolant level is low, yet there are no puddles under the car but the exhaust puts out an excessive amount of steam. I've read on a thread somewhere that 3800s have a problem with the instake leaking. I'm wondering if this is her problem.
Wasn't there an issue with the 3800 series 2 and some kind of plastic manifold that caused that issue? I seem to remember reading a lot of Impala owners having it. Rampant enought that there is a GM TSB for it to try to strengthen the seal before the failure.
I had the flicker only on VERY cold nights. That problem is gone. It's strange how the people who have the issue seem to have it under different conditions.
I haven't had the flicker in the winter. It only happens when its around 15C. I might get it checked out in the summer if its still happens. It wasn't too bad so its not to big a deal.
Now that the Ontario government is proposing speed camera again on hwy becasue they are broke, does any Canadian ever use a radar detector? how are they working out in the U.S.? i have heard that some police cars have anti-radar devices and can detect if you have one installed (with a bigger fine if you do), is that true?
I used to have a Bell radar detector that had technology to hide it from being detected (VG-2 technology or something). Didn't use it much so I sold it to a co-worker.
If the photo radar does come back I may consider another one though I would go wireless so it's easy to hide. It's just a revenue generator for the government, nothing more.
Gm has had problems with the intake manifold gasket failing on theri V6 engines. It is a common problem. The coolant is leaking into the engine which is why there are no puddles under the car. I've heard many theories on why it happens. the only one that makes sense to me is the engine block is made of cast iron and the heads are aluminum. these metals expand and contract at different rates. Add that to a poorly designed gasket and you get the leak. Can it cause engine problems? Maybe But I do know the costs to fix it run from $500-$1000 as reported by several memebers o Edmunds. The reepair can be done by any competent mechanic.
have your friend try the dealership first to see if they will do anything for him. If not go private and save the money.
With the automatic turning-on of the headlights in dim light as part of the DRL system, is there any reason to turn the headlights on manually at night, i.e. does turning the switch give extra brightness, etc? I can't detect a difference.
There are 2 problems: up to '98 the EGR pipe was too close to the plastic manifold and it would deteriorate quickly, causing leaks.
From '99 and on, uneven torque would stress the plastic manifold and it would warp and leak.
In both cases the leak can be inside the engine, varying from oil contamination to hydro-lock. If it's inside, expect the wor$st. It's a good idea to keep an eye on coolant consumption in this engine.
There have been 2 separate recalls for these issues.
I have had the 2nd problem in my '02 Bonneville and the manifold was replaced under warranty. A few months later I got the recall notice concerning it and they replaced the TB brackets and used nuts that don't get loose.
I absolutely still love it. I don't think I could ever drive a 4 banger again. I have noticed some rattling coming from the back door. I will look at it in the summer when the plastic isn't frozen. Its also hard to pin point when you are in the front. We've had some -43 weather lately and the old time its not plugged in its starts beautiful. I think thats one thing GM can do right cause my Grand Am was the same. Can't wait for the summer so I can get some wax on it.
Glad to hear all is well. No rattles is my biggest joy with the Intrigue. I HATE rattles.
My visor squeaks a bit right now which may just be from the extreme cold we have (it was -18 this morning). Like you said, you can never be sure until it warms up.
As far as I know, the 3.5 has no leaking problems. It seems that it did have some porosity issues in some of the 1st units, but besides that it's a solid engine.
I started my car this morning and it started making a gurgling sound. I heard it gurgle before but this was constant for about 5 minutes.. I had wondered if using 5W30 oil caused it.. I get so paranoid.. LOL!.. the gurgling finally went away so I'm going to assume it was from cold weather..
Whenever you hear something out of the ordinary, don't assume that it's normal because colder temperatures triggered it. It's not supposed to gurgle and you'd better have it checked out.
From my poor understanding, it can be related to the cooling system or even to the lube system...
Were you the one that was telling me about the fuel sending unit being separate from the fuel pump?
I purchased a 2000 Intrigue GL from my buddy. It have jsut a click over 60k miles on it. The fuel gauge does not work. When i start it and drive around nrmally, it reads full. When I put it in park (engine still on) and then shift into gear again to drive away, the needle drops to empty and the yellow fuel light comes on. My friend had the dealer look at it and they determined he needed a new fuel pump. Actually the faulty part is the sending unit but the unit is attached to the fuel pump and they are located in the tank. They recommend replace the entire pump. I want to get this confirmed because I am considering getting this fixed. The dealer wants to charge $600 to replace the fuel pump. I don't want to spend this type of money when i am doing perfectly fine keeping track of the mileage using the trip odometer.
I guess my question is, is it necessary to replace the entire fuel pump or can I get just the sending unit replaced?
No, it wasn't me about the fuel pump and, unfortunately, I don't know. I have its service manual at home and if nobody else chips in until tomorrow, I'll take a look in it.
I have a weird question.. A few months ago I noticed that I was missing one of the flip up things that goes next to the rear speaker.. Each rear speaker has one (I'm not talking about the one in the middle of the speakers).. They cover brackets that hold a child seat or something.. Anyways I took my car into the dealership 2 Months before I noticed it was gone so I really can't blame them. I wouldn't doubt that some creep at the dealership just took it.. I really would like to replace it.. Does anyone know if I can get a replacement for it?
Well I was talking to a good friend today I met up with someone who his family has bought 9 cars from. The last one an 04 TL of which I was playing with the DVD Audio system yesterday.
So basically now I can get a TL or TSX for invoice. Getting a TSX for the price of an Accord EX is very tempting! Must hold off.
I checked out the service manual and the fuel sending unit can be replaced separately from the fuel pump. Moreover, the fuel sensor in the fuel sender alone can be replaced.
The fuel sender can be removed through an access panel on the floor the trunk.
I generally enjoy my 2000 Intrigue; however, I hate to bump the speed limiter at approx 112 m.p.h. ( I drive long distances in West Texas, and have frequent opportunities to "bump the limiter). Is there a way to easily disable the speed limiter? I also own a Ford ZX2, and disabling the speed limiter only required clipping one wire.
I engaged the speed limiter on my Intrigue several times when I had it. Mine had the PCS package so the fun stopped at 126 MPH. Not sure how to disable it though.
I'd love to disable the limiter. I hit it often, when blasting to/from McCarren Airport on the 215 in the wee hours (!). First time, it scared the crap out of me.
I was watching TV last night and they were showing all the accidents due to the snow storm hitting here now. One pictures was a totalled Intrigue and although it was covered with now, I recognized the late model rims, exclusively Intrigue.
Comments
I have an appointment to get my oil changed tomorrow. The manual calls for 5w30 when the temp gets 20 below zero. The guy at the station recommended 10W30 until I showed him the manual. Which one do you guys use, the 5W30 or the 10W30? It's been real cold here in Massachusetts..
If even the base has it, I guess I'd better replace it since it's the factory part - five years now! Any way to tell without taking everything apart?
Deke
In order to replace it, turn the ignition off when the wipers are still vertical on the windshield. Open the hood and gently work the clips of the left cover up with some V-shaped tool (I broke off both when I tried with a flat screw driver). Then you can see the paper filter on the far left side. Pull the filter out horizontally and then insert the new one by reversing this procedure. Put everything back in and you're done.
There is a jumble of letters and numbers(rpo codes)
The code( '98-'00) for the cabin air filter is
K11 Air Filter, Cowl-Mounted
Did you/could you see if the filament was still intact on any of the non functioning ones? I know, there tiny.
Did they all go out at once, or one at a time?
You could call the dealer for a querry on the bulbs, and for a laugh find out the price of the unit if that is neccessary, but i seem to remember someone elsewhere saying the dealer replaced his HVAC module for this problem. Not sure if it was in or out of warranty.
If you could measure the voltage at the bulbs, you can get mini lamps like that at electronics distributors.
They would need to know the voltage and physical size. Take one to them. There is about a million different kinds: current, voltage, size, base, socket. Those have no socket. You may find the size and voltage and have differnt currents. Current is proportional to the light output. However, a higher current will also make it hotter and if i remember, they are recessed into some buttons. To hot a bulb may overheat and melt some plastic.
Good luck. What year is your trig.
Deke
i changed my oil every 5000 km, but last year i check my dip stick and it's dry! Went to get an oil change and they told me it's nothing to worry about?
I've found some 14V micro-bulbs in the web, but not only does the current vary, so does the light output. I was hoping that someone would have that information handy...
I guess I'll have to get some samples and check out which ones are equivalent.
I wonder if they changed the oil filter after reading how difficult it is in post #10770... I'll have to take a look..
Often the dealer forget to reset the oil sensor switch, and the light comes on soon after an oil change.
Just spent $35+ to do my emission test (so i can renew my plate) at only 32,000 km, government is ripping us off
Still enjoying your 02?
If the photo radar does come back I may consider another one though I would go wireless so it's easy to hide. It's just a revenue generator for the government, nothing more.
have your friend try the dealership first to see if they will do anything for him. If not go private and save the money.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
From '99 and on, uneven torque would stress the plastic manifold and it would warp and leak.
In both cases the leak can be inside the engine, varying from oil contamination to hydro-lock. If it's inside, expect the wor$st. It's a good idea to keep an eye on coolant consumption in this engine.
There have been 2 separate recalls for these issues.
I have had the 2nd problem in my '02 Bonneville and the manifold was replaced under warranty. A few months later I got the recall notice concerning it and they replaced the TB brackets and used nuts that don't get loose.
PS: the 3.8 V6 has iron block and heads.
Can't wait for the summer so I can get some wax on it.
My visor squeaks a bit right now which may just be from the extreme cold we have (it was -18 this morning). Like you said, you can never be sure until it warms up.
I started my car this morning and it started making a gurgling sound. I heard it gurgle before but this was constant for about 5 minutes.. I had wondered if using 5W30 oil caused it.. I get so paranoid.. LOL!.. the gurgling finally went away so I'm going to assume it was from cold weather..
From my poor understanding, it can be related to the cooling system or even to the lube system...
Were you the one that was telling me about the fuel sending unit being separate from the fuel pump?
I purchased a 2000 Intrigue GL from my buddy. It have jsut a click over 60k miles on it. The fuel gauge does not work. When i start it and drive around nrmally, it reads full. When I put it in park (engine still on) and then shift into gear again to drive away, the needle drops to empty and the yellow fuel light comes on. My friend had the dealer look at it and they determined he needed a new fuel pump. Actually the faulty part is the sending unit but the unit is attached to the fuel pump and they are located in the tank. They recommend replace the entire pump. I want to get this confirmed because I am considering getting this fixed. The dealer wants to charge $600 to replace the fuel pump. I don't want to spend this type of money when i am doing perfectly fine keeping track of the mileage using the trip odometer.
I guess my question is, is it necessary to replace the entire fuel pump or can I get just the sending unit replaced?
So basically now I can get a TL or TSX for invoice. Getting a TSX for the price of an Accord EX is very tempting! Must hold off.
;-)
The fuel sender can be removed through an access panel on the floor the trunk.
HTH
'00 GL , "Northstar Powered"
Apparently more snow on the way today. YUK!