ab348 : GM only has a single "Oldsmobile Line" brochure this year. No individual ones for each model. Grim!
b4z : Impala sales shot up BIG this year in Canada. It's now the 7th best seller for the first 11 months. Biggest increase of any car / truck, up around 35% year over year. I hope they improve the interior for next year, it's basically a good car.
I understand that it's a rear-drive tranny, my point was that GM has had a 5-speed auto design for years. TSchramm: My 330Ci has the steptronic and it's really great fun putting a foot to it and listening (and feeling) it rush seamlessly through the gears. Reminds me of the sound Formula 1 cars make as they rocket down a straight. V8lincolnguy: 2005 C6 Vette will be in all the mags in a few weeks; being unveiled at the LA and Detroit shows in early January. Leaks already confirm the same old 4-speed auto and a 400-hp 6.0 liter V-8. 0-60 in 4.1 sec and quarter in 12.5! Admittedly, with 400 ft/lbs of torque, the extra gear of a 5-speed is probably not really missed all that much.
So, I stand corrected on ACDelco wipers. We just inherited a 1997 Regal GS (someone upgraded to an Aurora, no one died or anything) and I got new refills for it from the local Chevy dealer. They were like $13 per for just refills. I guess the W-bodies have some crazily expensive wipers or something. I hope they last a long time... The ACDelco blades for my wife's Nissan were like $9 per side, though it takes a 20" and an 18" or something.
I think I got screwed... I asked the guy specifically since there were two refills in one package, and the part number said "2 pcs" if it was a 2 piece part, i.e. $13 for both. He said that's not how it is done, and that spark plugs are like that too but the price is per plug but packaged for convenience. Anyway, GMPartsDirect.com has them for $7 instead of $13, and they mention it being $7 for 2 refills. So I really think it should have been $13 for both, not $13 each... Oh well... Guess that will finally teach me to start checking GMPartsDirect.com in the future...
Also, I guess I got the Genuine GM Part, not the ACDelco part (though they may be manufactured in the same place). Wonder if ACDelco's would have been cheaper... Ugh... When I bought them for the wife's car, I gave the dealer the specific ACDelco part number (also, it was a Nissan so there is no GM part).
possibly you got taken. Call up another dealer and ask them the price for a set of refills and if they tell you $13 a set, I would march back to the joint you got them from and ask them for half your money back and if they still are in denial then let the owner know that you know, they are crooks. Everyone sells them in pairs. Besides, who would buy just one refill. Although, it always seems that the driver side does wear on sooner LOL
two weeks ago i bought at a dealer, two wiper blades, for a '98 lumina. 22 inch each side. Identical to my intrigue blade, right down to the vent holes and tapered angle in the blade. Layed side by each with the factory trig blade, I couldn't tell the diff, except for one having less black paint due to age. LAst year My father had lost the palstic gizmo where it clips onto the wiper arm when he put winter blades on.
Anyway, they were $19 Canadian each and Crappy tire up here wanted $17 for there best blade replacemnet with 6 pressure points. The factory blade has 8.
The list price is for each and the package quantity is how many ship together. So if they are $7 on GMpartsdirect.com, you will be charged $14 is you add them to your basket (since there are 2 in a package).
Yup, you're right. I added it to the cart and it is 2 x $7 for them. So I didn't get screwed, I just majorly overpaid. I better not check how much they sell the GM Supercharger oil for...
From what i read here, the wiper each cost about $7 us$ and $19 cdn$ (=$14.5 us)!! Are the Canadian dealers ripping us off? (if you compare many other products in the US vs Canada, the difference is absurd)
i think not. The $19 cdn was for the complete blade, refill and refill holder. Rjs paid $13 for a refill only at the dealer or $7 at gm parts direct. The local auto parts outfits wanted around $17 to 20 for an aftermarket wiper assembly. Oh yeah, one dealer i called wanted $29 list for the same part number that the other list was $19. However, that dealer tends to be pricy on all parts. I call them for reference. Like everyting it pays to shop around.
Also the $19 price was list and a little sweet talk and i was down to around $15/$16.
I have in the past compared my price from the dealer with GMPARTS direct and throwing in the exchange, it is normally the same , sometimes more somestime less. Not worth a trip south. Hehe
Hello everyone, Happy New Year and safe driving! I am thinking on buying 2002 low mileage Intrigue, Love the looks of that car, and the dynamics. Can get a pretty good deal here in Alberta Canada. However, I have a few questions about the parts availability in a future, since this is a discontinued brand and I am planning on keeping it for at least 6-7 years and 100K miles. Would appreciate your input on that subject, as well as on general reliability of 2002 Intrigues. Things that I should be aware of. Thank You!
I am purchasing a 2000 Olds Intrigue froma friend of mine. It has 60k miles on it and I have all of his service records. Nothing surprising or concerning on them. I took it for a test drive and it rode very nice. But I did have a couple of concerns that I wanted to get people's opinion on.
1) At low speed the steering became very "loose" (easier to turn). I looked in the manual and noticed it has Magna steering which I assumed is a characteristic of this system. I noticed that there was a light rattle. Not audible but you could feel it as you were turning the wheel. Is this also a characteristic of the Magna steering or is this the ISS problem?
2) The accelerator pedal felt stiff (not catchy). It seemed like i had to apply more pressure then normall would. The stiffness was consistent alss as you take your foot off the pedal to let the car coast. It did not slow down as quickly I would expect once you took your foot off the pedal. I was wondering if this was normal or is it a cause for concern.
3) The fuel gauge does not work and it has been diagnosed with needing a fuel sending unit. The cost that was quoted to my friend is $608 (dealership cost). They say most of the cost is in the labor since the unit is in the fuel tank. Is this cost high or realistic?
Other then those 3 issues, the car drives great. I also looked at the CR Buyers guide from 2002. They ranked the Intrigue 4th for V6 family sedans and I can see why after driving it.
I plan to purchase the vehicle over the weekend. So any feddback you can give me will be appreciated.
I thought that it it needed the lube job but wanted to make sure.
The accelerator pedal isn';t catchy but stiffer then what I am used to. I have to press harder then I normally do on my van. But it is consistent. And when I take my foot off of the acclerator, it doesn't slow down as quickly as I would like. It's not a big deal. I just want to make sure this is normal and not a problem I will have to deal with later. I had stuck throttle body in the Explorer and that made the accelerator "catchy" (Meaning I needed extra pressure just to get the pedal moving then it was fine). This does not feel that way at all.
I thought that was a little high. They told my friend that they have to remove the fuel tank and get inside to replace the unit. He has the quote listed on his maintenance records from the dealership. I'll see how much labor they are allowing.
I really liked the way the vehicle drove. I was the one who told him about the Intrigue. I rented one when I was in California in 99. I was very impressed with the vehicle. Still not sure why they did not put this unit in the Buick or chevy lineup.
My Intrigue has a much firmer pedal than most other cars that I've driven. You get used to it over time. The car also tends to coast further with your foot off the gas, especially in 4th gear. Probably has something to do with the gear ratios.
thanks redline. You guys have answered two of my concerns.
I called up my mechanic about the fuel sending unit. He said to replace the fuel pump and module at the same time. I guess they are one unit now. he quoted me a price of $550. So the dealership's quote was in line.
dindak: You are probably right about the re-badging.
Intrigue is one of the few cars that you DON'T have to drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump/sending unit. Below the spare in the trunk there is an access panel that can be opened up to service the fuel pump. I was quite surprised (and happy) to read in my factory service manual of this nice "feature."
The accelerator on my Intrigue was a little stiff as well. Not as bad as some other cars I've driven, but noticeable. What color is the Intrigue your considering?
Dindak, I think the Alero is going away after 2004 MY. Speaking of small Chevys, have you seen the 05 Cobalt. Silly name, but it looks to be a class leading small car. It's about darm time GM and Detroit get back into the small car game. The Focus was a decent start for Ford, but it seems to have had alot of problems.
Does anyone know the best way to improve the miles per gallon? I'm getting 19mpg in mixed driving. I will be getting it tuned up and was wondering if you guys had any other ideas.
taycron : Lay off the pedal. ;-) Seriously though, try a different brand of gas. Also, how many miles?
oldsman : Ya, I know the Alero is done, it's all by itself right now in the car lot with the Chevys. Cobalt looks very good, should sell like hotcakes.
just went to warm up my intrigue that's been parked for 1 month, temperature is 8 degree celsius outside and i see lot of white smoke coming out the pipe, doesn't smell anything; also see water dripping down from muffler. Would this a simple case of condensation? or something more serious. (2001 intrigue with 35,000k or 21,000 miles)
My wife's Intrigue was parked in the garage for 2 weeks plus and I started it up and blue smoke rolled out the exhaust. At 48,000 miles never did it before or since. Had added 6 oz of Marvel Mystery oil at last fill up prior to this. I assume that the Mystery oil created a mystery as the name implies. I assume that some carbon deposits were dissolved or dislodged and burned in the catalytic converter, or the oil settled out and a quantity was burned at one time.
White smoke doesn't sound good either. Does sound like moisture.
The 60 series tires do have a low rolling resistance and the car coast a long way before slowing down. My, just acquired, 2002 Buick Regal with touring suspension will indicate instantaneous fuel consumption at 99 MPG when exiting the interstate at closed throttle.
The piston rings in the Northstar and Shortstar are low tension to improve fuel mileage. Problem is that the rings are easily stuck with carbon if not properly maintained. The top compression ring is also very close, 1/16" from the top of the piston causing the carbon and ring sticking problem to be more likely. Not over filling with oil, and doing some hard driving are reportedly beneficial in preventing the problem.
GM recommends a solvent installed through the spark plug hole and allowed to set for a couple of hours prior to being vacuumed out and then the oil and filter are changed.
Earlier Northstars were more affected. Possibly the newer improved lubricating oils have alleviated the problem.
As the cooling air comes in at low level it is easy to suck up a plastic shopping bag into the radiator resulting in overheating.
Fuel mileage on 2000 with 48000 miles runs 22 to 23 mpg in town, and 30 to 33 hwy.
Only problem has been the ISS lube and steering rack.
The LS buick regal with gran touring package is an Intrigue with the original 3.8 engine as installed in 98 and most of 99 in the Intrigue.
I like both engines, but the 3.8 is a proven engine with a known record of reliability.
What are the symtoms of a steering rack gone bad? I have noticed a loose feel through the steering wheel and brake pedal. Not sure how serious this is. It is only slight, simular to the ISS problems. It has been a couple years since that was replaced (I had that work done under warrenty).
My 99 is at 46000 miles. It was been a very good car for us. The only thing replaced Maintenance wise has been tires. So I am at that point.
I am deciding if I should have my dealer look at my problem or a local repair shop. As well as brake service and other maintenance issues. Have most of you been using GM dealers for your out of warrenty service?
I had a crankshaft sensor gone bad in my '00 Intrigue. I wasn't sure if it would be prudent to wait a week or so for a $50-replacement from GM Parts Direct, so I decided to bite the bullet and go for a $100-replacement from the dealer. Even if an AAA tow would be less than $50, that's not worth the hassle. Labor was another $100, but I figured that going under the car and removing the starter to reach the sensor was beyond my means, though within my skills.
I asked the dealer to check out the steering wheel play. The answer was bitter-sweet: the tie rods and the steering rack were fine, but the ISS U-joints probably had too much play, even if within spec (according to the technician). Thus, I guess I'm stuck with a 1/2" play in the steering wheel...
I also had the battery dying on me at 45000mls, which is not uncommon in TX. So there went another $80.
The car is still a pleasure to drive and does so with a good mileage: 22 city, 30 highway.
Hi guys. I recently purchased a 2002 GLS, fully optioned. Yeah I know some of you might think it's a bad idea buying an Intrigue, but so far I love this car and plan to keep it for many years. I also have an extended warranty. I have a couple of questions (at the moment). I read on one of the posts that this car has an internal oil filter. What tool is needed to remove it (I haven't crawled under it yet). Also, is the filter readily available? I stopped at Autozone the other day and they did not carry the filter. I prefer changing my own oil because I don't trust the kids at the quicky lube joints.
The tool to remove the oil filter is the AC PF44 removal tool sold at Auto Zone and other parts store. The PF 44 is the filter used on the 2.4 liter twin cam Alero. The disposable throw away filter, obviously not a PF44, is available at auto Zone in the STP brand.
My own personal choice in a 2000 is to use Mobil 1 and make sure that I do not overfill. The change oil light comes on at or around 5500 to 6000 miles. I would not change to a synthetic until the third change or at or near 12000 miles.
Tomorrow will be 5 years since I bought my 98 SilverMist Intrigue, and I should turn 35000 miles on the way home from work - a 7000 mile per year average. Last January at inspection time I had under 26K on the car - thanks to my company moving from Midtown Manhattan to Jersey City, I put 25+ miles a day on a parial driving commute instead of the express bus I enjoyed taking before which left the Trig safe in the driveway!
Now that we bought a new Camry for my wife's use, we use that on the weekends for our errand running, and she for her 2 mile commute four days a week, the Trig gets a needed rest!
Aside from the ISS problem and other annoyances early in the ownership, the car is pretty solid and I'm happy with it. Not that I'd turn my nose up at another Camry (an SE with 3.3L V6 and 5 speed auto this time), but something a little more roomy than the Toyota.....like a Crown Vic LX Sport!
Paid off the Trig early, but still carrying full coverage insurance...
Did you purchase yours new? I think you win for the lowest overall miles per year. I put about 16K a year on mine. It had 35K when I traded it and I had only had it 2 years and 2 months. If you like big and sporty, you might want to check out a Mercury Marauder. They aren't seeling all that well so I'd say discounts can be had. Ford may hav already dropped the car as I read somewhere it was going to be discontinued.
Bought it new - was built in August '98 after the big strike was settled, otherwise it would have been a '99. Love the 3.8, especially since all I read about are problems with the 3.5.
A good friend worked at the Caddy/Olds dealership and when we decided to re-establish our credit after going Chapter 7, we talked to him. We were going to get the Alero with all the toys, but it was a little too small inside. The Intrigue was roomier, had more power and everyting was standard! The only options on mine are the rear window antenna (the brochure listed it as an option - ever see one with an antenna mast?) and spoiler. Friend swapped in the AM/FM/Cassette/CD radio (non-Bose) for free.
We had a choice of about 7 or 8 Intrigues from base to GLS with leather. I wanted the spoiler and this was the only one on the lot with it! We were going to hold out for an Autumn Mist GL with tan leather and spoiler, but rebates were ending and we didn't want to miss out.
Thinking of upgrading the brakes with larger cross-drilled rotors and new calipers (red, maybe). Also would love a set of the 16 inch American TorqueThrust II rims... Always had either American TQ Ds or Cragar S/S on my muscle cars.
Looking at pics of the 2005 Mustang and I'm thinking of trying to get a V6 model. They finally got back to the ORIGINAL styling cues that I liked as a kid when the fastback was first introduced.
v8lincolnguy: I'm looking at a silver (gray) 2000 Intrigue. So far I like what I am hearing form everyone. It sounds like the problems are pretty minimal and easily diagnosed.
white6: Are you sure it is accessible without dropping the tank? My mechanic said it is all in the tank. He could be wrong. I'll check the car out tomorrow to see if this panel is in there. Does the Intrigue have a low fuel warning light?
Problems with the 3.5? I never hear of any. What are your sources? It's a sweet engine. Now, as far as problems go, the 3.8 is a different story. Watch out for a leaky intake manifold and oil pan.
We had 1 or 2 guys on here that had porous engine blocks. They were given new engines by GM. Other than crankshaft sensors and some high oil use on a few engines, that's all I know about.
as mentioned above...oil consumption, leaks, crankshaft position sensor and alternator/headlight flicker. That's what I meant.
My 3.8 has been no problem at all, pulls strong, sounds nice when I get on it, maybe a little noisy at idle, but nothing like the wife's 91 Toyota Tercel!
"white6: Are you sure it is accessible without dropping the tank? My mechanic said it is all in the tank. He could be wrong. I'll check the car out tomorrow to see if this panel is in there. Does the Intrigue have a low fuel warning light? "
Yes the whole [non-permissible content removed]. can be removed from the access panel which is held down by seven nuts/bolts and is rectangular in shape. It is located under thetwo piece insulated trim panels just foward of the wheel well and or just behind the rear seat. If you have the fold down seat then it requires less leaning. You may just have dirty wire contacts at the plugs on the fuel assembly.
yes there is a low fuel warning light that should come on when you have around 10 liters/2.5 gallons remaining in the tank. This is normally part of the float/sending unit.
I didn't have it diagnosed. the current owner did have the dealership look at it (the cost is on one of the recent maintenance reports). They told him they had to drop the fuel tank to access the fuel pump (which they recommeneded replacing). This is the information I passed oto my mechanic. So essentially he was giving me the same estimate that the dealership gave.
The fuel gauge does not read the fuel level correctly. It always reads empty. There was no "check engine light" on.
It sounds to me like this needs further investigation before I spend $550 on this vehicle.
Not sure of your expertise but here is something from the manual:
The powertrain control module (PCM) requires an accurate indication of the fuel level for the EVAP system diagnosis. The fuel level in the fuel tank changes the rate of vacuum decay for the EVAP system leak DTCs.
The fuel level sensor changes resistance based on fuel level. The fuel level sensor has a signal circuit and a ground circuit. The PCM applies a voltage of about 5 volts on the signal circuit to the sensor. The PCM monitors changes in this voltage caused by changes in the resistance of the sensor to determine the fuel level.
When the fuel tank is full, the sensor resistance is high, and the signal voltage is only pulled down a small amount through the sensor to ground. Therefore, the PCM will sense a high signal voltage. When the fuel tank is empty, the sensor resistance is low, and the signal voltage is pulled down a larger amount. This causes the PCM to sense a low signal voltage. The fuel level data is also sent to the instrument panel cluster (IPC) via the Serial Data line.
Also this: Fuel level data is sent from the PCM through the class 2 serial data link to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster will then compare the fuel level data with a 16-point look-up table in order to determine needle deflection. A smooth filter is used in order to secure a continuous response. The instrument cluster will determine if a low fuel condition is present. In the event of a low fuel condition, the instrument cluster turns on the LOW FUEL indicator. In the event the fuel level data is lost, or the PCM is in a state of health fault, the instrument cluster will drive the fuel gauge to empty.
From the above you float may be gone or broken /dirty connector. It dosen't say it turns the low fuel light on if data is lost. It is strange that the fuel guage reads empty but you do not get he low fuel indicator. . very strange. When you turn the key to acc. the display should light up the low fuel light for a second or, as well as all other lights. DO this check to see if any other lights are not functioning. Like the MIL indicator. Perhaps you can get to the plugs and reseat them and look for crude, sand etc.
Dekester:"Thinking of upgrading the brakes with larger cross-drilled rotors and new calipers (red, maybe). Also would love a set of the 16 inch American TorqueThrust II rims... Always had either American TQ Ds or Cragar S/S on my muscle cars."
12" GM Performance Parts brake upgrade: $255. You could always paint your calipers, though red is a bit, um, importy... Are your calipers black powdercoat now? Maybe just clean 'em up a bit, or write "Intrigue" on them...
I'm bright but my expertise is not automotive mechanics.
Let me check to see what exactly is going on. I'll write down what lights come on after turning the key plus I will confirm the gauge reading. I know the low fuel warning light was not on when I test drove it on Thursday.
I was curious as to why they would want to change the fuel pump if it is operating fine.
The fuel pump assembly consist of the pump the float/sending unit and the fuel pressure unitand the bracket that holds it all together. Not sure which if any parts are available seperately for the trig.
Normally the pressure vapour sensor is replaceable along with the fuel level sending unit. Perhaps you can call a dealer and see how the assembly breaks down on the trig unit.
The pump is obviously working since you have driven it without any irregularities like hestitation and stalling. Sometimes the viper will corrode or a wire may break from the connector on top down to the actual sending unit.
Gm has had alot of trouble with the viper of the float eating away with certain fuels in eastern canada and have issued a extended warranty for it . As far as GM is concerned it anly affects certain 2000-2001 J and N cars like cavalier's , GA's and aleros. Of coarse, people with '99's aren't too happy with the same problem.
Does that invoice you have re the pump replacement/ faulty gauge say anything about diagnostics being done?
These are the Turque Thrust wheels I'm talking about..http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=2- - 9&name=Torq-Thrust%20II&style=505&desc=2-piece%20allo- - y,%20polished§ion=A (Steve, can you make this a link, please?) My calipers are basically dark gray and a little "chalky looking" since I haven't been able to have the car washed in a while. I only said red because it'll stand out with the silver car!
I remember when we used to paint our brake drums orange so you'd see them between the spokes!
Surprised the brakes don't even mention the Intrigue! Safe to assume that if they're for the Grand Prix and Impala they'll fit the Trig?
I spoke with the owner and it has been on full for him mostly. His son (who drives the car occassionally) says it has been on empty and sometimes will float around from time to time. So it sounds like the fuel sending unit is bad. From this they are saying the entire unit is suppose to be replaced since it is all one unit.
I'll have him chekc the invoice to see if any diagnostics were done.
Comments
b4z : Impala sales shot up BIG this year in Canada. It's now the 7th best seller for the first 11 months. Biggest increase of any car / truck, up around 35% year over year. I hope they improve the interior for next year, it's basically a good car.
TSchramm: My 330Ci has the steptronic and it's really great fun putting a foot to it and listening (and feeling) it rush seamlessly through the gears. Reminds me of the sound Formula 1 cars make as they rocket down a straight.
V8lincolnguy: 2005 C6 Vette will be in all the mags in a few weeks; being unveiled at the LA and Detroit shows in early January. Leaks already confirm the same old 4-speed auto and a 400-hp 6.0 liter V-8. 0-60 in 4.1 sec and quarter in 12.5! Admittedly, with 400 ft/lbs of torque, the extra gear of a 5-speed is probably not really missed all that much.
Also, I guess I got the Genuine GM Part, not the ACDelco part (though they may be manufactured in the same place). Wonder if ACDelco's would have been cheaper... Ugh... When I bought them for the wife's car, I gave the dealer the specific ACDelco part number (also, it was a Nissan so there is no GM part).
Although, it always seems that the driver side does wear on sooner
LOL
two weeks ago i bought at a dealer, two wiper blades, for a '98 lumina. 22 inch each side. Identical to my intrigue blade, right down to the vent holes and tapered angle in the blade. Layed side by each with the factory trig blade, I couldn't tell the diff, except for one having less black paint due to age. LAst year My father had lost the palstic gizmo where it clips onto the wiper arm when he put winter blades on.
Anyway, they were $19 Canadian each and Crappy tire up here wanted $17 for there best blade replacemnet with 6 pressure points. The factory blade has 8.
good luck
Also the $19 price was list and a little sweet talk and i was down to around $15/$16.
I have in the past compared my price from the dealer with GMPARTS direct and throwing in the exchange, it is normally the same , sometimes more somestime less. Not worth a trip south. Hehe
Happy New Year, folks!!
I am thinking on buying 2002 low mileage Intrigue, Love the looks of that car, and the dynamics. Can get a pretty good deal here in Alberta Canada. However, I have a few questions about the parts availability in a future, since this is a discontinued brand and I am planning on keeping it for at least 6-7 years and 100K miles. Would appreciate your input on that subject, as well as on general reliability of 2002 Intrigues. Things that I should be aware of. Thank You!
1) At low speed the steering became very "loose" (easier to turn). I looked in the manual and noticed it has Magna steering which I assumed is a characteristic of this system. I noticed that there was a light rattle. Not audible but you could feel it as you were turning the wheel. Is this also a characteristic of the Magna steering or is this the ISS problem?
2) The accelerator pedal felt stiff (not catchy). It seemed like i had to apply more pressure then normall would. The stiffness was consistent alss as you take your foot off the pedal to let the car coast. It did not slow down as quickly I would expect once you took your foot off the pedal. I was wondering if this was normal or is it a cause for concern.
3) The fuel gauge does not work and it has been diagnosed with needing a fuel sending unit. The cost that was quoted to my friend is $608 (dealership cost). They say most of the cost is in the labor since the unit is in the fuel tank. Is this cost high or realistic?
Other then those 3 issues, the car drives great. I also looked at the CR Buyers guide from 2002. They ranked the Intrigue 4th for V6 family sedans and I can see why after driving it.
I plan to purchase the vehicle over the weekend. So any feddback you can give me will be appreciated.
Happy New Year!
60K is decent, you will like the car. 3.5L is a gem.
The accelerator pedal isn';t catchy but stiffer then what I am used to. I have to press harder then I normally do on my van. But it is consistent. And when I take my foot off of the acclerator, it doesn't slow down as quickly as I would like. It's not a big deal. I just want to make sure this is normal and not a problem I will have to deal with later. I had stuck throttle body in the Explorer and that made the accelerator "catchy" (Meaning I needed extra pressure just to get the pedal moving then it was fine). This does not feel that way at all.
I thought that was a little high. They told my friend that they have to remove the fuel tank and get inside to replace the unit. He has the quote listed on his maintenance records from the dealership. I'll see how much labor they are allowing.
I really liked the way the vehicle drove. I was the one who told him about the Intrigue. I rented one when I was in California in 99. I was very impressed with the vehicle. Still not sure why they did not put this unit in the Buick or chevy lineup.
Never really noticed the coasting thing, guess I'm used to it.
The 3.5L was discontinued so the car was also. Rebadging is a bad idea IMO, creates confusion.
Noticed in the paper today GM ads with a number of Chevys and the 2004 Alero by itself. No mention of Olds. I guess it's an honorary Chevy now.
I called up my mechanic about the fuel sending unit. He said to replace the fuel pump and module at the same time. I guess they are one unit now. he quoted me a price of $550. So the dealership's quote was in line.
dindak: You are probably right about the re-badging.
Dindak, I think the Alero is going away after 2004 MY. Speaking of small Chevys, have you seen the 05 Cobalt. Silly name, but it looks to be a class leading small car. It's about darm time GM and Detroit get back into the small car game. The Focus was a decent start for Ford, but it seems to have had alot of problems.
oldsman : Ya, I know the Alero is done, it's all by itself right now in the car lot with the Chevys. Cobalt looks very good, should sell like hotcakes.
Would this a simple case of condensation? or something more serious. (2001 intrigue with 35,000k or 21,000 miles)
White smoke doesn't sound good either. Does sound like moisture.
The 60 series tires do have a low rolling resistance and the car coast a long way before slowing down. My, just acquired, 2002 Buick Regal with touring suspension will indicate instantaneous fuel consumption at 99 MPG when exiting the interstate at closed throttle.
The piston rings in the Northstar and Shortstar are low tension to improve fuel mileage. Problem is that the rings are easily stuck with carbon if not properly maintained. The top compression ring is also very close, 1/16" from the top of the piston causing the carbon and ring sticking problem to be more likely. Not over filling with oil, and doing some hard driving are reportedly beneficial in preventing the problem.
GM recommends a solvent installed through the spark plug hole and allowed to set for a couple of hours prior to being vacuumed out and then the oil and filter are changed.
Earlier Northstars were more affected. Possibly the newer improved lubricating oils have alleviated the problem.
As the cooling air comes in at low level it is easy to suck up a plastic shopping bag into the radiator resulting in overheating.
Fuel mileage on 2000 with 48000 miles runs 22 to 23 mpg in town, and 30 to 33 hwy.
Only problem has been the ISS lube and steering rack.
The LS buick regal with gran touring package is an Intrigue with the original 3.8 engine as installed in 98 and most of 99 in the Intrigue.
I like both engines, but the 3.8 is a proven engine with a known record of reliability.
What are the symtoms of a steering rack gone bad? I have noticed a loose feel through the steering wheel and brake pedal. Not sure how serious this is. It is only slight, simular to the ISS problems. It has been a couple years since that was replaced (I had that work done under warrenty).
My 99 is at 46000 miles. It was been a very good car for us. The only thing replaced Maintenance wise has been tires. So I am at that point.
I am deciding if I should have my dealer look at my problem or a local repair shop. As well as brake service and other maintenance issues. Have most of you been using GM dealers for your out of warrenty service?
Thanks,
BJL
I asked the dealer to check out the steering wheel play. The answer was bitter-sweet: the tie rods and the steering rack were fine, but the ISS U-joints probably had too much play, even if within spec (according to the technician). Thus, I guess I'm stuck with a 1/2" play in the steering wheel...
I also had the battery dying on me at 45000mls, which is not uncommon in TX. So there went another $80.
The car is still a pleasure to drive and does so with a good mileage: 22 city, 30 highway.
Happy New Year and happy Intrigue-ing to y'all.
Thanks.
taycron : Lot of miles, wow. You probably need a tune up.
3trigs : You are right. The issues that the Intrigue can develop are all the same and easy to ID.
My own personal choice in a 2000 is to use Mobil 1 and make sure that I do not overfill. The change oil light comes on at or around 5500 to 6000 miles. I would not change to a synthetic until the third change or at or near 12000 miles.
Now that we bought a new Camry for my wife's use, we use that on the weekends for our errand running, and she for her 2 mile commute four days a week, the Trig gets a needed rest!
Aside from the ISS problem and other annoyances early in the ownership, the car is pretty solid and I'm happy with it. Not that I'd turn my nose up at another Camry (an SE with 3.3L V6 and 5 speed auto this time), but something a little more roomy than the Toyota.....like a Crown Vic LX Sport!
Paid off the Trig early, but still carrying full coverage insurance...
Deke
What gives me pause would be having to leave the wheels on the Intrigue when I eventually trade it.
Anybody know how to determine which GM vehicles have the same nut pattern, so I could keep my wheels?
A good friend worked at the Caddy/Olds dealership and when we decided to re-establish our credit after going Chapter 7, we talked to him. We were going to get the Alero with all the toys, but it was a little too small inside. The Intrigue was roomier, had more power and everyting was standard! The only options on mine are the rear window antenna (the brochure listed it as an option - ever see one with an antenna mast?) and spoiler. Friend swapped in the AM/FM/Cassette/CD radio (non-Bose) for free.
We had a choice of about 7 or 8 Intrigues from base to GLS with leather. I wanted the spoiler and this was the only one on the lot with it! We were going to hold out for an Autumn Mist GL with tan leather and spoiler, but rebates were ending and we didn't want to miss out.
Thinking of upgrading the brakes with larger cross-drilled rotors and new calipers (red, maybe). Also would love a set of the 16 inch American TorqueThrust II rims... Always had either American TQ Ds or Cragar S/S on my muscle cars.
Looking at pics of the 2005 Mustang and I'm thinking of trying to get a V6 model. They finally got back to the ORIGINAL styling cues that I liked as a kid when the fastback was first introduced.
Deke
white6: Are you sure it is accessible without dropping the tank? My mechanic said it is all in the tank. He could be wrong. I'll check the car out tomorrow to see if this panel is in there. Does the Intrigue have a low fuel warning light?
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
They were given new engines by GM.
Other than crankshaft sensors and some high oil use on a few engines, that's all I know about.
My 3.8L has been much more problematical.
My 3.8 has been no problem at all, pulls strong, sounds nice when I get on it, maybe a little noisy at idle, but nothing like the wife's 91 Toyota Tercel!
Deke
Yes the whole [non-permissible content removed]. can be removed from the access panel which is held down by seven nuts/bolts and is rectangular in shape. It is located under thetwo piece insulated trim panels just foward of the wheel well and or just behind the rear seat. If you have the fold down seat then it requires less leaning. You may just have dirty wire contacts at the plugs on the fuel assembly.
yes there is a low fuel warning light that should come on when you have around 10 liters/2.5 gallons remaining in the tank. This is normally part of the float/sending unit.
DTC P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Voltage
DTC P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
The fuel gauge does not read the fuel level correctly. It always reads empty. There was no "check engine light" on.
It sounds to me like this needs further investigation before I spend $550 on this vehicle.
The powertrain control module (PCM) requires an accurate indication of the fuel level for the EVAP system diagnosis. The fuel level in the fuel tank changes the rate of vacuum decay for the EVAP system leak DTCs.
The fuel level sensor changes resistance based on fuel level. The fuel level sensor has a signal circuit and a ground circuit. The PCM applies a voltage of about 5 volts on the signal circuit to the sensor. The PCM monitors changes in this voltage caused by changes in the resistance of the sensor to determine the fuel level.
When the fuel tank is full, the sensor resistance is high, and the signal voltage is only pulled down a small amount through the sensor to ground. Therefore, the PCM will sense a high signal voltage. When the fuel tank is empty, the sensor resistance is low, and the signal voltage is pulled down a larger amount. This causes the PCM to sense a low signal voltage. The fuel level data is also sent to the instrument panel cluster (IPC) via the Serial Data line.
Also this:
Fuel level data is sent from the PCM through the class 2 serial data link to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster will then compare the fuel level data with a 16-point look-up table in order to determine needle deflection. A smooth filter is used in order to secure a continuous response. The instrument cluster will determine if a low fuel condition is present. In the event of a low fuel condition, the instrument cluster turns on the LOW FUEL indicator. In the event the fuel level data is lost, or the PCM is in a state of health fault, the instrument cluster will drive the fuel gauge to empty.
From the above you float may be gone or broken /dirty connector. It dosen't say it turns the low fuel light on if data is lost. It is strange that the fuel guage reads empty but you do not get he low fuel indicator. . very strange. When you turn the key to acc. the display should light up the low fuel light for a second or, as well as all other lights. DO this check to see if any other lights are not functioning. Like the MIL indicator. Perhaps you can get to the plugs and reseat them and look for crude, sand etc.
good luck
12" GM Performance Parts brake upgrade: $255. You could always paint your calipers, though red is a bit, um, importy... Are your calipers black powdercoat now? Maybe just clean 'em up a bit, or write "Intrigue" on them...
Wheels: http://www.americanracing.com/wheels/details.asp?wheelid=35&n- - - ame=Aero%20Chrome&style=606&desc=1-piece%20alloy,%20chrom- - - e%20plated§ion=P Not sure how they'd look on a 'trigue, but they come in 16-18" sizes for GM FWD.
Here's a shot of them on a new Aurora. A guy on the Aurora board here took the picture:
Let me check to see what exactly is going on. I'll write down what lights come on after turning the key plus I will confirm the gauge reading. I know the low fuel warning light was not on when I test drove it on Thursday.
I was curious as to why they would want to change the fuel pump if it is operating fine.
Normally the pressure vapour sensor is replaceable along with the fuel level sending unit. Perhaps you can call a dealer and see how the assembly breaks down on the trig unit.
The pump is obviously working since you have driven it without any irregularities like hestitation and stalling. Sometimes the viper will corrode or a wire may break from the connector on top down to the actual sending unit.
Gm has had alot of trouble with the viper of the float eating away with certain fuels in eastern canada and have issued a extended warranty for it . As far as GM is concerned it anly affects certain 2000-2001 J and N cars like cavalier's , GA's and aleros. Of coarse, people with '99's aren't too happy with the same problem.
Does that invoice you have re the pump replacement/ faulty gauge say anything about diagnostics being done?
(Steve, can you make this a link, please?)
My calipers are basically dark gray and a little "chalky looking" since I haven't been able to have the car washed in a while. I only said red because it'll stand out with the silver car!
I remember when we used to paint our brake drums orange so you'd see them between the spokes!
Surprised the brakes don't even mention the Intrigue! Safe to assume that if they're for the Grand Prix and Impala they'll fit the Trig?
Deke
I'll have him chekc the invoice to see if any diagnostics were done.
Hope this helps.