Mercedes-Benz C-Class Sedans

michhala

C320 - 3827 miles - When I valet parked at the Lakers game tonight, I used my valet key for the first time to lock my purse in the trunk. When I got home, I could not unlock the trunk. MB service is closed tomorrow (Sat) and I could not wait until Mon. At 12:40 AM, I called TeleAid/Road Assistance; at 12:45 AM, an MB technician called me; at 1:05 AM, he was in my garage working on opening the trunk. He disengaged something so I could open it with my remote, but told me there was a malfunction and to bring in the car for service. He is from my dealership because Road Assistance sends a tech from the dealer closest to your location.

This was not the usual remote key malfunction; however, it was an electronic problem. He told me they had new keys and when I bring the car in to make sure they check the number on my remote key (241 1155)as a precautionary measure.

Miki

shipo

Hmmmm, my BS meter is showing a high reading...

While I cannot definitively comment on your service advisors statement about “that the front tires spread when driving at high speed” on both BMWs and MB by design, I do feel qualified to point out a few things:

I currently own a 1999 BMW 328i that will be three years old pretty soon and has almost 32,000 miles. Not only have my tires not developed an “uneven/wavy wear pattern”, they look so good that I suspect that they will last another 20 to 30 thousand miles.

Back in 1996, I wrote the new “Customer Assistance” software for MBUSA here in Montvale, NJ, as a result, I worked with all of the Customer Assistance Reps and A LOT of live data. I never heard of your problem, ever.

As for your problem, it sounds to me like you have an alignment problem and/or a wheel (or wheels) that is/are out of true (somewhat unlikely).

I hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jrct9454

Any tread waviness or feathered edges are a sign of bad alignment, no matter what somebody tells you at the dealership. And how often did you rotate the tires? On a rear-drive car, I do the rotations myself in the garage at home [30 minutes to do a 4-way rotation with cheap floor jacks and a good torque wrench] at intervals of no more than 5000 miles. On a front-drive car, I go no longer than 3500 miles. The tires on our cars have all lasted and looked great at high mileages, but I also have had all of our recent new MBs aligned right after delivery. Our local dealer has an excellent alignment tech who does good caring work...the results on our '98 E were something to behold...it cured the high-speed twitchiness for which the current E is notorious.

It's too late now - given the description of the tires you have, I would throw them away and start over: a new set of MXV4s and a complete alignment, with regular rotations at much shorter intervals than called for in the book.

shipo

I second the recommendation on the Michelin MXV4 tires; I have them on my 328i and am very pleased with all aspects of these tires. Interestingly enough, BMW does NOT recommend rotating the tires, so as an experiment, I have not. At 32,000 they still look great.

Best Regards,
Shipo

newmbfan

Here is how I have my settings,

Key 1
Steering Column only.

Key 2
Steering Column and seat easy exit.

If I put key 1 in the ignition, the seat returns to the last setting from the last time that key was used even if key 2 had been used in between.

The seat only pulls back after key 2 is removed from the ignition. The steering column moves out of the way if either key is removed.

I now have 3 different seating positions in memory for each key. I also have my key set to unlock all the doors with 1 click but my wifes key only unlocks the drivers door on the first click and the rest of the doors on the second click.

This is how I understood it was supposed to work but it took three sets of keys before everything worked right.

BTW my key number is 221 1411

This has all been only slightly irritating. 15,000 miles and overall, I am very pleased with the car.

mofo01

Thank you for all the feedbacks. jrct9454: I rotate my tires every 5-7k miles. Perhaps I need to get me a new set of tires. :-(

lindal5

I'm thinking of buying a Mercedes C240. I've never owned a Mercedes before (currently own an Infiniti I-30) and have heard that maintenance issues are very costly on a Mercedes; much more costly than on other cars. Is this true? Do you have a lot of maintenance issues with this car? Do you recommend owning one? Thanks.

jrct9454

I would divide the maintenance issue into two parts: routine preventative mtc, and repairs.

Mercedes is going to pay for both during the first 4 years or 50k miles, whichever comes first. After that, you are on your own, unless you purchase one of the extended warranties...those from MB can take you out to 8 years and 100k miles, for costs that range from $1400-$2200, depending on who's doing the quoting and which program you pick. But the extended warranty won't cover preventative mtc, just repairs.

Compared with anything Japanese, I would generalize that routine preventative mtc costs are more or less on a par, or even slightly lower than premium Japanese brands from Toyota, Honda, and Nissan. But repair costs out to the ten year and 120000 mile mark [or beyond] are going to be much higher with anything German in general, and MBs in particular.

There is nothing peculiar about the C in this regard vis-a-vis any other Benz model, though its relative simplicity compared to an S or a CL works in its favor. Basic drivetrain components are pretty robust, the new [since '98] V6s being better than their iron-block, straight 6 predecessors for reliability; most of the issues with the 5 spd automatic were worked out several model years ago. It is the electronics and aux components [water pumps, AC systems, etc.] that drive owners of older cars crazy with writing checks...and these things are always more expensive to fix than their Japanese counterparts.

Great driving cars, high on the nosy-neighbor factor, excellent resale value, good long-distance comfort, safety, etc...but never inexpensive to own for the long pull.

michhala

I have all the necessary info as far as Mobil 1 being the product of choice for my unscheduled oil change -- I know my engine requires 8.5 quarts; that the oil comes in 4.5 quart containers and that I will have 1/2 quart left over (all per courtesy of Drew). However, I thought I was supposed to use Mobil 1 15W-50, but my service advisor was a bit dubious and was more inclined towards the Mobil 1 OW-40.

Would someone who has had an oil change before the FSS 10K and lives in Southern CA please advise which Mobil 1 they used. Service advisor told me that weather had a lot to do with choice. Or if you don't
live in Southern CA and can give me advice, I would appreciate. My service dept. is still using the contracted Penzoil synthetic, but agrees with me that Mobil 1 is preferable.

My thanks.
Miki

michhala

My C 320 has Conti's and I have been keeping the tire pressure as instructed by MB -- 32 psi front 28 back. Today my service dept told me tires should be 33 or 34 and all tires should be the same. Since the backseat is not used, and luggage is once in awhile in the trunk, we agreed on 33 for all four tires. I then asked my tire shop who carries my road hazard insurance, and they told me between 33 and 35 all tires. Maybe I am putting too much importance on this, but some input from the tire experts on the board would be of great help. Someone please tell me exactly where to keep the tires at. I don't remember knowing, caring or worrying about this over the years with my BMW's Pirelli's, and they always gave me great mileage. I do rotate every 5K.

Thank you

Miki

rowlandj

I am no expert - but here is what I have done with my 320 and my E320 as well.

Changed the oil at 3-4 thousand miles. Brought my own oil to the dealer and I used Mobil 1 15-50 as that was the only recommended weight I could get over the counter. No raised eyebrows at the dealer and no problems with the cars either.

I use 31 in the fronts and 33 in the rears for my tires. I find this the best compromise for ride and handling. It has worked out fine and again it is well within the recommended pressures. I found that higher pressure in the front led to a harsher ride.

JR

jrct9454

Firstly, in choosing between 15-50 or 0-40, I would go with the latter in any climate except the desert...though So-Cal comes close enough to make either choice harmless.

I find the heavy marketing of Mobil1 to be something I just ignore; we have used Castrol Syntec 5w50 on all our cars for the past 8 years or so. It's the oil that BMW is using at all their dealerships now. The viscosity range is ideal for us, given the Sacramento area's wide range of temps [20s and 30s in winter to 110 in summer].

You really can't make a mistake with oil these days, though for best fuel economy and quick warmups, most car makers want you to use something with a cold viscosity of 5 or less. In LA, the 15w50 is a reasonable choice, just not an ideal one. Mobil's viscosity choices have always left me scratching my head a little...they seem to require you to make a choice between cold weather climates and warm, a choice I prefer to avoid by picking another synthetic.

Oil choice is like gasoline, though - everybody has some story to tell that convinces them that Brand A is great and Brand B is awful...I believe all synthetics are fine, so make my choice based on our needs. Conventional oils that meet all of the SAE standards for your car are equally interchangeable, a statement that will no doubt get the religious zealots in the group up in arms...oh well...

michhala

>Changed the oil at 3-4 thousand miles. Brought >my own oil to the dealer and I used Mobil 1 15->50 as that was the only recommended weight I >could get over the counter. No raised eyebrows >at the dealer and no problems with the cars >
>either.

Appreciate your input on both posts. After posting here, I discovered that Mobil 1 has an excellent website I asked my question there, and recd a reply this morning telling me the 0W-40 is not available in the US. Their E-mail also states that some foreign car dealers import small quantities for servicing purposes for their new customers. I, personally, doubt if Mercedes does this because I am told they are still under contract to Penzoil.

>I use 31 in the fronts and 33 in the rears for >my tires. I find this the best compromise for >ride and handling. It has worked out fine and >again it is well within the recommended >pressures. I found that higher pressure in the >front led to a harsher ride.

According to my dealer service area and the independent West Coast Tire dealer here, anything lower than 33 is not recommended. Both also recommend the same pressure in all four tires. I only drove a short time after the change from 32/28 to 33 all tires and the ride seemed smoother.

Miki

michhala

>Firstly, in choosing between 15-50 or 0-40, I >would go with the latter in any climate except >the desert...though So-Cal comes close enough to >make either choice harmless

Since I just discovered that the 0-40 is not available in the US (see my post #4814), I have no choice other than the 15-50. The C320 shipped with Mobil 1 synthetic and I am wondering which weight they used. Castro is also on MB list of approved engine oils.

Your advice is well-taken in that I will not go wrong going with the 15-50. I have an 800 number to call at Mobil 1 technical, and if I find out anything valuable I will post it.

I am always confused when I find so many variables within an industry.

Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.

Miki

michhala

I am sure everyone knows all this, but I did not.
I spoke to a tech at Mobil 1. He told me that my 320 should have 0-40 and this is what it had at delivery. However, the 0-40 is not available to the public but should be available at my dealer, because they use 0-40 for the AMG. My service advisor told me Mercedes was still under contract to Penzoil -- the Mobil 1 tech told me that contract ended approx the end of 2000 or beginning of 2001. He suggested that if I cannot get the 0-40 from my dealer I should try another one. I remember so many posts here re 3K or 4K oil change that mentioned bringing their own oil to the dealer. If the 0-40 was what was needed and the dealer had the oil for the AMG, there was no need to bring their own oil, so why did they do so?

Summary: Approved MB engine oil in the booklet with the 320 manual: OW-30 (not available in US); 15W-50 (available but not what is needed). Not listed in booklet is 0-40, which is what came with the car and is what I should use -- except it is only available from my dealer who tells me they are under contract to use Penzoil.

Miki

michhala

My service advisor tells me they use only Pennzoil and do not use Mobil 1 for any cars at their dealership -- even for the AMG. I am totally confused by now since Pennzoil is not on the C320's approved list for engine oil. Is this how it is at all dealers out there? I am thinking about just forgetting the early oil change and waiting for the FSS scheduled one. Even then, they will still not be putting Mobil 1 into the car.

Miki

jrct9454

Your note of mild frustration is understandable. MB actually told the Club [MBCA] that they stopped trying to publish approved lubricant lists as it applies to engine oil because they couldn't keep up with all of the new products being introduced. Mercedes tells you [and the service people] via the manual what SAE rating [SJ, I assume] and the various viscosities that are OK for this car. After that, ANY oil that meets the SAE spec is not going to harm your engine or affect the warranty. No dealer is going to put anything in the crankcase that has the potential to do any harm.

Now, my understanding is that MB has advised all of its dealers to start using synthetic oil on all FSS-equipped cars, period. Which synthetic, no matter what you hear, is mostly irrelevant. Pennzoil, Quaker, Castrol, Mobil and others all make synthetics that pass all of the relevant technical specs and are just fine for this or any other car.

IF, and this is a big IF, it matters to you, then purchase the oil from an independent source and take it to the dealer for the oil change. I have always [for all of our cars since the purchase of our '94 C220] brought the appropriate amounts of Castrol Syntec 5w50 to the dealership. They cheerfully put it in the crankcase, and credit me for the equivalent of whatever they charge for whatever they are using at the time. I have had techs tell me they think the Syntec is an excellent choice, but I think any synthetic will do just fine.

For SoCal, if you absolutely HAVE to have Mobil1, then I would recommend 5w30 or 10w30, which should be available at all of the usual sources [discounters and auto supply places]. Nothing wrong with the 15w50, either, though I personally prefer a cold viscosity of 10 or less. Castrol Syntec can be had from discounters in 5w50 viscosity for around $3.75-4.00 a quart, depending on sales...I buy it whenever the price is right to use in our cars.

What the dealer is telling you, in a fashion that is less than straightforward, is that any SAE approved oil with an appropriate viscosity range for your climate is fine...which is completely true, but counter-intuitive to a lot of people who have strong beliefs on this topic. Mercedes doesn't care whose label is on the bottle as long as it is SJ and a reasonable viscosity for the ambient temps.

This generalization DOES NOT apply to a lot of other fluids for their cars - they have extremely specific and short lists of providers of differential oil, ATF, coolant, PS fluid, brake fluid, etc. But we were told they no longer try to make lists of approved crankcase oils because it takes too much effort to try to keep up to date.

kenyee

Drop me an email and I'll point you at the approved list of oils from MB. Can't post URLs here because they censor them...

ltedesco

My question is how low in octane can one go. I have a C-230 and use 91 octane but sometimes I throw in a tank of 89 is this practice OK? or should I be using 93?. Does using gasoline with ocane below 91 damage the engine in any way?

paul_p

Since my '00 C230 says "Premium Fuel Only" on the dashboard and fuel door, I've never used anything less than the top grade available - 92 or 93 octane. I'm one to follow the MB rules strictly and have never experimented with any other grade.

Interesting that for my 1993 Toyota truck, using anything less than premium gas causes the engine to ping horribly on acceleration. I've checked the timing - and retarding it to eliminate the knock would put it out of specs. All I can figure is that the truck must be jealous of the MB, and is demanding the same preferential treatment. After all, they do share the same garage! :-)

michhala

Ken -- I tried twice to get an E-mail to you at the address in your Edmunds profile, but both times they came back with system errors. I have your Web address, but there is no way to contact you from there.

Miki

michhala

>Your note of mild frustration is understandable

Oh, John, it is more than "mild" LOL. Thanks for the great overview and education on the subject. I appreciate this very much.

>Now, my understanding is that MB has advised all >of its dealers to start using synthetic oil on>all FSS-equipped cars, period.

The MB Service and Parts Operations Manager told me in January that all dealers would be using Mobil 1 Synthetic. That said, my dealership's Parts manager orders only Pennzoil.

>or SoCal, if you absolutely HAVE to have Mobil1, >then I would recommend 5w30 or 10w30, >nothing wrong with the 15w50, either, though I >
personally prefer a cold viscosity of 10 or less

Now I am down to three weights I can use and armed with
the knowledge that it is a personal choice -- lotsa lessons learned here -- I don't have to go by the book, since the dealer does not -- and maybe I should lighten up a bit, except one can only do that when they have the experience of trial and error. Incidentally, why do you like a cold viscosity of 10 or less (C or F?) Do you play in the snow?

Thanks again for your patience with me past and present.

Miki

jrct9454

I prefer the lower viscosity index for cold starts; the lower the number, the easier the engine cranks and the faster it warms up. For really cold climates, the new zero cold viscosity oils are the only way to go; for everywhere else, the automakers generally specify a 5 level index.

Gasoline: Virtually all cars these days [but not the early 90's Toyota truck engines] have knock sensors and electronic engine controls that assure the engine is protected if you have to use a lower octane fuel. The computer detects the knock, and dials back the ignition timing to compensate for the lower octane. The price you pay for this behavior is a slight loss of power, and a slight increase in fuel consumption.

You can't hurt any modern MB by occasionally using lower octane fuel - but it is NOT a good habit to get into. Don't confuse the octane recommendation with the fact that in high altitude locations [most mountain states], it is often true that the highest octane available is 89. This is fine to use in any car with a low altitude requirement of 91, since higher altitude reduces the octane requirement for the engine to behave as designed.

Generalization: Use the highest octane fuel available at any given time in these cars. But occasional use of something less than optimum will do no harm - the engine electronics will compensate.

kenyee

I updated the email addr. Not sure why the zdnetmail one is bouncing.
You also might want to ask your dealer for a copy of the notice. Everyone got one...

shipo

The only exception to the “High Altitude” rule is if you have a blown engine, especially if the engine is turbo-charged. Blown engines feel the effects of altitude far less than normally aspirated engines, and turbo-charged engines (like the Audi 1.8t) even less than super-charged engines (like the MB Kompressor 2.3). I have found that even at very high altitude (>11,000’) an engine with an intercooled turbo can still generate significant amounts of boost and that the engine electronics are challenged to hold detonation to a minimum when running on the low octane "High-Altitude Premium".

Best Regards,
Shipo

w2p2

My memory is terrible. What is the nmae of that company that sells the CD changer? I am trading my C-320in on a SLK-320. There is not a board as good as this. I guess you guys know the C class is in demand!
Thanks,
Bill

ahost

Now I picked a new set of keys, and the memory function still did not work the way I expected. I therefore compared with a new 2002 C320, and surprisingly it worked the same way as my car, contradicting (maybe) what I read earlier on the board. So, my car is OK, and the conclusion is:
1. It is a safety feature that the seat will not move too much forward when the key is inserted -- it never moves all the way to my wife's position. My wife is not unusually short (same as michhala, according to a previous post), so maybe my wife drives in an unusual position with her legs curled up. I will try if she can set the seat further back and also move the steering wheel back.
2. If the easy entry/exit is set to steering column only, the seat will not move back to the last position of that key, even if the other key has been used in between.
That contradicts newmbfan (post 4806). I wonder if he has an especially lucky car, or if it also works that way in other cars? I put the same setting as newmbfan in both my car and the 2002 I tried at the dealer, and in neither did the seat move to the last setting for key 1. What is the experience of others? Also, newmbfan I wonder if you have go out of the car and unlock/lock for it to work? Or does it also work if you just switch the keys while you sit in the car? Thanks.

doofus3

Hearts and flowers to Lisa Lehrbaum at Courtesy Motors, Chico CA PH 800-655-3535. They offer the Premium MB Extended Warranty for my '01 C240 for $920 less than my selling dealer here in VA. She is a pleasure to work with. If you're interested, give her a call...

rs64

The place I think you are looking for is http://www.clairparts.com

newmbfan

I just checked it again and it works the way I described.

It could be that the easy exit feature that is enabled for my wife just happens to move back to my normal driving position??? IE: a lucky car?

I do know that the seat back and mirrors adjust to my key and my last setting. I did not lock or unlock the car. I just switch the keys.

Oh well, I need a little luck because my drivers window has now quit working for the third time. Maybe it will stay broken long enough for the dealer to figure out why it will just quit for 2 to 4 days and then start working again.

It will not operate with the window switch or the key, so I suspect it is in the motor and not the switch.

w2p2

I could not remember it and tried every combination and spelling except that one!

lxgmb

I picked up my C320 in May. It has 8000 miles on it. It has so many brake dust at the front wheels that I wonder whether I need to replace the brake pad soon. Anyone has the same experience?

mleskovar

A "Brake Pads are Worn" (not sure of exact wording) warning light will come on when the time comes. I intend on finding some pads that don't leave so much dust but I fear they will be hard to find because of the way they are made. Instead of the metal "skreech" extensions most pads have MB (at least on my 320) has sensors built into the pads that connect into the electrics with a wire. How long pads last depends on how and what kind of driving you do. Looked at my pads yesterday and they look only 1/2 worn after 15K miles.

habitat1

...w/ brake pads. I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE. First set of brake pads lasted 90k miles w/ little or no dust on the alloys (mostly highway driving). When they were replaced, dealer put in a different pad that is generating quite a bit more brake dust and appears to be wearing a little faster. However, I have noticed an improved brake feel and it seems like my stopping distances are shorter than before. I wash my car frequently, so the added dust is not that much of a problem. Perhaps brake dust and better performance go hand in hand?

shipo

I just read somewhere that in Europe, graphite is a required element in brake pads. That does NOT mean that we need to keep using graphite based pad over here. TireRack.com sells replacement pads for many Imported cars (the new C-Class is not listed, yet), that they claim will have as good if not better stopping power and NO DUST. I plan to give them a try if I decide to keep my current car past its April 2002 lease expiration.

Best Regards,
Shipo

acrafton

Hi. Looking for a new C and have seen great deals on MLs and Es via leasing. Is anyone seeing deals on C 240s?

madartol

Hello,

Another update on my new C320 (about 500 miles): I really enjoy driving it and noticing how the Capri Blue changes color under different lighting conditions!!!!! Last Sunday the sun was out, went for a drive and opened the sunroof, let the cool, crisp air in, listening to smooth jazz. Ahhh .....

As for the small bumps on the road to ownership that I mentioned in my first post - the spare key problem (the spare key stopped working a few days after I picked my car up) was resolved by swapping the batteries out, which initially didn't work, but then the mechanic used the main key to open the doors, and re-synchronized the spare key by using it to start the car, after which the spare worked. BTW, although I was initially told that a "special tool" and "a trained mechanic" were required to disassemble the $175 smartkey in order to change the batteries, you can actually use the metal key that comes with the smartkey to remove and replace the batteries, as follows:

1. Remove the metal key by pushing back the ridged latch on the smartkey and lifting the metal key up
2. Insert the metal key into the hole in the smartkey, positioning it on top of the plastic piece that can be moved to the side
3. Use your fingernails to grip on the plastic mold parting lines on each side of the top of the smartkey
4. Simultaneously push the plastic piece to the side (using the metal key) and steadily pull up on the top of the smartkey with your fingernails -the top of the smartkey will lift out along with the batteries
5. Check/replace the batteries, push the top back down into the other half of the smartkey, and replace the metal key

On the Tele-Aid issue: MB apparently "lost" my Tele-Aid application, so I had to re-fax it and I activated it last week.

I also noticed and had the mechanic verify an alignment problem (the car tended to drift to the right) which was fixed overnight. While the alignment issue was being fixed, I received a Volvo loaner as no MB's were available. Worked for me.

I experienced two apparent memory one-off's last week: the passenger side mirror failed to return to the regular position after going from reverse to drive, and the driver seat memory failed once when I got into my car.

All in all, not a perfect experience, but one which doesn't surprise me given the high level of the C320 product complexity ... being in software I can appreciate that bugs/escapes are always an issue and not easy to fix.

Earlier I asked whether anyone had any recommendations on bike racks and hardened alloy wheels ... I seem to recall reading somewhere that the standard alloy wheels aren't as resistant to dings and potholes as hardened allloy wheels. Can someone help? Thanks!

kelf

In prior years I was invoice prices for Euro Delive posted. Where can I find 2002 MB ED ivice prices?

husky11

re: price of smart key on MB cars. I checked with my MB dealer about four months ago and he quoted a price for a new key (fob) at $90

I broke the metal ring off of one of my smart keys (trying to open trunk) thus, losing the "key ring" feature. Decided not to get a new key to replace one of the two smart keys that came with our 1999 C280.

Did your dealer say anything about how long batteries should last on these smart keys? Thanks

w2p2

has anyone used the disc that you put on the inside of the tires to keep the dust off the rims?
I was concerned if it would cause any problems. They advertise the disc brakes get plenty of air for cooling.
Anyone use them before.

emory28

First off, thanks to all of the sage advice and opinions that I received on this site. I picked up my 2002 C 320 a little over a month ago and everything has been smooth sailing since. No key or seat problems (yet) and the drive continues to be wonderful. The car has around !,400 miles on it and just gets better with each mile. For those of you on this site trying to make a decision, keep all of the opinions/advice that you get in mind but do realize that there are many out there with very positive experiences too!

sargent4

Hi, I am a lurker and enjoy and learn much from your posts. Have a question now. Last night coming home alone with my Scottie the "Check Engine" light came on. Used that button and was told if car was driving OK it was fine to drive the added 100 miles - probably emission control problem - and to call dealer. Just called and they said it is probably the gas cap - she told me it takes up to two days to cause this light to go on - does that make sense. Also, said to take off gas cap and put back on but light will stay on probably 10 days - seemed sure it was not the emission control. After forcing the issue got an appointment for Dec. 5th. I know nothing about cars so would like to know if:
1. Am I safe driving around until the 5th - it drove home wonderfully.
2. Evem if the light does go out, shouldn't they look at it?
3. Have any of you had this problem.

Have 7000 miles now and up to now only had the key problem and that seems OK. Hate the brake dust on the front wheels but guess I hav to live with it. Also, My Mercedes star is at 12:05 - should I have them fix that if I need to bring it in on the fifth.

Hope you all had a wonderful holiday.

genie1

The check engine light does come on when the gas cap has not been tightened completely (three clicks on some models). It usually goes away in a couple of days. Keep an eye on the dials (temp, tach etc. over the next few days). If all seems normal there is nothing to worry about.

Keep your svc appointment for peace of mind, but bear in mind that several people (myself included on my BMW) have had the light come on and disappear in a few days, due to the gas cap not being tightened competely.

Hope this helps.

johnny2000

I have not posted in awhile. I have checked with some contacts I have in southern California and found out that the going market price for a C Class now is about $300 over invoice. If interested, email me and I will give you the number of who you can talk to.

P.S. I have also heard that a local dealer can ship cars anywhere in the states for a small fee ($300) unless it is Alaska or Hawaii ($900). The catch is they are only allowed a small quota to sell outside their allocated area per month. Thus, if you are interested and you don't mind the wait contact me and I will be glad to be of some assistance to you.

Cheers
Johnny2k

mleskovar

1 - 2 - 3, 1 - 2 - 3

mleskovar

Anyone tried EBC Green Stuff pads? They are supposed to be more efficient, rotor friendly, and less dust than stock pads.

http://www.ebc-brakes.com/autopads.htm

merckx

This is such an issue on so many German car boards-I've tried to figure out what to make of this.
First or all,logically,as upset as so many people have been about the dust for so many years,if it could be addressed by the companies,it certainly would have been years ago. (Those "Kleen Feet" were sold in the back of Road&Track back in the seventies.
My feeling is that the performance oriented,speed crazy even environment of Germany these pads must be necessary. I imagine other,cleaner pads must seriously compromise braking,or they would have been specified years ago.
In the US we do drive slower,no Alpine switchbacks,etc. we probably could use cleaner pads. But I don't want to compromise braking distances,so I have resigned myself to cleaning the wheels on both my German cars often.

shipo

It is my understanding that in Germany the standard OEM brake pads must carry a designation of "TUV" (I have no idea what that stands for). Said TUV pads are required by law to contain Graphite, hence the dust. Here in the US, we are not so constrained, as such, many folks who autocross German cars use pads with any number of other compositions, AND they are virtually dustless.

I have not heard any comments on the EBC pads, good or bad; however, I have heard good things about Repco/PBR pads in two different incarnations (Deluxe and Metalmaster). Given that many folks who race replace their OEM pads with these pads, one would assume that they are at least the equal of the OEM pads as far as stopping power. In fact, from what I have heard, the Metalmaster pads are quite superior in stopping power; however, they do have a tendency to squeal (which can be addressed during installation in a number of different ways).

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Shipo

404c

TÜV stands for "Technische Überwachungs Verein", or Technical Supervisory Association. It is a large regional and national NGO in Germany that establishes technical safety and performance standards for all sorts of tools, implements, car parts and accessories. They're rather like the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) only better ;-) It is well respected outside of Germany and the TÜV stamp of approval is accepted in European countries, in most cases.

Mike T.

shipo

Thanks Mike!

Best Regards,
Shipo