Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Tpken - Great pics! You know I'm gonna ask if I can post 'em on the Classic site.
Henry - It's like when you hear a radio personality for years and then you see him and say "That's not what he looks like!" Hehe.
Mordecai24 - LOL. I (mercifully) stumbled on the battery when looking for my wife's lost jewelry. Thought someone had put a bomb under the seat. Then checked under the hood, and golllly, haha!
Better than opening the hood with jumper cables in hand and egg on face.
You may certainly post any pic I've taken - and there should be more when Kevin (kzm) posts the ones he took as well.
Wishing a great day to all
Ken
Oldsmobile - I have an Olds logo on the car because the dealership put it there. When the 95's first came in to this White Plains, New York dealership the sales manager noticed the Oldsmobile was missing and put the chrome plastic Olds logos on all of the cars. I guess he did not read the marketing materials.
Jerry has an Oldsmobile logo on the back of his car also. In the first part of 1997 olds put the name on the car. Although he also has a 1995, he liked the look of the 1997 and put the "Oldsmobile" UNDER the "AURORA" lettering. Yes he pinstriped the Princess. The guy at the dealership did it for him. As far as I know the car was not repainted. I am surprised to see that blemish on his quarter panel that shows up in the picture. I did not realize it was there.
BATTERY - I was reading the manual when I first got the car and it mentioned the battery. The hard part is doing the jump. I have found that the postive box along connecting the negative clamp to the Black metal plate supporting the headlights works best. P.S. I once bet some guys that they could not find the battery on my car.
-Daron Starkweather aka matrixfrog
98 Metallic Green Aurora
Skid will make you loose .3s on a 0-60, and a further .3s will be lost if you have traction control on.
My times w/ tc off, start at idle (~900rpm)
0-30: 3.0s
0-60: 7.5s
My times w/ tc on, used the brake to build up to 2200 rpm:
0-30: 3.6s
0-60: 8.1s
The skid was just a tad above 460ms, of which at least 300ms is lost acceleration. So trying too hard will actually yield a worse time.
Shedding a bit more weight would help the auto tranny in a significant way. Using an onramp (which helps the 0-30), I was able to clock 6.48s (round it to 6.5, that is 1 second faster - on my much lighter 505 stx, this helps only 0.5s)
I also have engine rpm data, but I haven't started to do correlations yet. This is where the real fun will be and as soon as I have enough data for a good baseline (t.c. on, off, skid, temperature data etc), then I'll try some adjustments. In particular, I'll try some runs without a filter, and with a k&n. I will also try to track down some silver tipped spark plugs, and also as I'm approaching the first oil change, I'll switch to full synthetic.
Then, I'll be ready for a program upgrade.
Ciao,
Francois
i was looking for high performance parts at RSM.com. They have an aftermarket one there, but all the info they give is that it's a larger throttle body. Does anyone have any more detailed information about this?
thanks
Thanks
Another piece of data:
traction control off, tarmac still wet from rain earlier on, I floor it:
2.53 seconds of skid. Not bad those Michelins, but in the wet... Still managed to get 0-60 in less than 9 seconds: 8.9s.
Hehe. As far as equipment, I initially used a G-tech, but I wasn't getting consistent data. I now use these following tools:
-Compaq iPaq 3630 PocketPC
-GPS (serial, connected to PocketPC)
-IBM Thinkpad 770x laptop
-Coil pickup
and more recently I've added to my 505 stx (not the aurora yet):
-Cam Microswitch
-buzzer
but it hasn't changed the precision at the tenth of a second so for now I'll leave the mod off the aurora. Might help on the 1/100th position.
GPS at this point was only used to confirm 60mph is 60mph and check elevation data from gps positions. Thinkpad records all the rpm data thru the coil pickup, microswitch at the gas pedal enables the data to the laptop and sounds the buzzer. iPaq PocketPC records the audio. The iPaq is very convenient as I always have it on me, so I can spec out any car without special installation. If I dont use the buzzer or the microswitch I say 'top' the moment I press the accelerator, and 'top' the moment I reach 30 and 60. I've replaced my first 'top' with the beep of the buzzer on the 505, and I can confirm the 30 and 60 positions by pulling the 30mph and 60mph times from the rpm data. I use a wave editor (sound forge) to set very precisely the markers at the exact same position of the sound, and soudforge tells me to the 1/1000th of a second the elapsed time. I know I can definitely trust the 1/10th, 1/100th fluctuates a bit without the microswitch. Skids are easy to note, you can clearly hear them on the audio.
As for the rpm data, I use 2 programs right now, and found another one that I'll be buying (home dyno). One is a program I wrote and spits out CSV files I then load into excel, and the other has it's own GUI but since I dont have the source, I cant customise it for my exact needs. It shows the hp/torque curve and max values at the wheels, and estimate flywheel hp.
Hope this all makes sense, let me know if you have any questions.
Oh, and dont try this at home. If you do, select a private road, closed parking lot ( a big one!) or tarmac (airstrip) that is secured. Etc.
Ciao,
Francois
-I use a fourier transform plugin to soundforge to get instant pitch from the rpm data which in turn gives me instant rpm. Helps in getting good at "reading" wav file plots at various zoom levels.
-cartest: dont leave home without it. Put the car specs in, it gives you everything you ever wanted to know about your car. 0-60, 60-0, gs, 1/4mph, top speed, optimum launch rpm, in gear speed, rpm vs speed, track times etc. Not exact science for gs and 0-60 but close enough ballpark. You can also guesstimate hp from 0-60 times. Very precise for speed vs rpm.
Ciao,
Francois
Henry
A very nice picture of what a convertible would look like. THAT picture just made its way to my wallpaper file. I have to show it to the dealership! Only I will not tell them (not at first) that it is not real.
That picture now makes me want one. The long body is not a turn off afterall. The only thing is that heavy braces would be needed under the body to keep the body from twisting when taking turns.
How do you do this? You filled in the backgorund and everything.
Actually, I didn't think I'd like the Aurora as a convertible, but I've changed my mind
I'd love to see that convertible.
Ken
Also noticed that the long front end on the Aurora is better balanced as a convertible. I wonder what it would cost...
Anyway, I uploaded these pics to the Classic site. They're from the 1995 New York Auto Show. I've never seen these cars before today, they're awesome!
Thanks Zinc!
Ken
I'm getting the car from a reputable pontiac dealer and it seems pristine. Is there anything I should know about? Are there specific areas that may need attention? (I could fill up the discussion group with Q45 "gotcha's")
I'm looking forward to owning the car. Any tips on care and feeding would be welcome.
Thanks.
Larry
In my research for the '95 I just purchased (see message above), I paid $11,000 for it and also looked at a '98 w/ 47k miles the dealer had listed for 18,900 but quickly dropped to the "sale price" of $15,900. The two cars (95 and 98) were identical - other than the color, which was similar. Both were in excellent shape. I decided I'd keep the extra 5 grand and get the one 3 years older. I did opt for the GM 24/24K warranty, however, since I do about 35K of highway miles a year.
You should check the repair history of the car. Since it is a GM dealer, the dealership should be able to look up the service records on the car if they input the VIN#. While I have not had it happen with my 95, several folks have reported problems with the air conditioner. Check the servuce records ti see if the air was ever repaired. I would also look at the back window to make sure that the rear window seal is not coming off. If there is any metal exposed, have the dealer fix it (this problem is true for all Classic - 95-99).
The next thing I would do is update the cupholder. If there is only one large rubber lip in the cupholder, it will never work properly. Olds updated the design so that there are two shorter rubber lips that will actually hold the cup in place.
I would also take the car for a test drive and be sure to floor it as you enter the highway (WOT). Make sure you get it up to at least 70 before you slow down. After doing this, drive the car for at least another 2 of 3 miles. You are looking to see if the check engine light comes on. If it does, you will need to have work done on the EGR valve.
Hope this helps.
P.S. --- Also, you may want to vist the classic site run by zinc1. If you scroll up a few posting you will find a link to that site. Lots of good information there.
Anyway, I don't know if you've "been doin ... homework on the 96 Auroras" because it's hard to distinguish any differences from 95 through 99. But I'd be worried if she was warming up the car for you. Check Carfax, check the VIN at an Olds dealer for repair history, if they'll give it to you. Ask her if it needs warming up.
Drive it fast, slow with radio off and listen for small noises that you can't live with. If it shakes at 60mph+ you may not be able to get it fixed. Check everything in the cockpit that you can; radio, CD, A/C, heater. Wind noise is common at 60mph+, but not too loud. But you can't be too careful when checking out a used Aurora.
Especially if she is warming up an Aurora.
Also the biggest differences between the 95's and the later years are the sway bars for less body roll and OBD2, the difference cost in "chipping" the car, and the recirculation switch.
The owner of the place included.
In addition, everyone had the same thought, the body would be too compromised by cutting off the roof. There would need to be some serious reinforcement of the underbody.
Henri
Etharmon - As I said: it's hard to distinguish... I knew all of those except for the 97-only badges - thought it was on more than 97. The only way someone could distinguish a 96 from the others would be to verify that it had daytime running lights or recirc button and the GM-logo seatbelts - not really worth the effort. I've heard some people wanting to disable the lights and some wanting to install them, so the lights may not be a reliable indicator.
It does have the single rubber strip in the cup holders so I'll have to see how they work. I'm pulling the service history today. Thanks for the tips.
Did someone say something about a rear sway bar on post-95's? Does it make a significant difference in handling and should I have one put on?
Thanks again for any advice.
ZINC1 _ I missed out on the thing but that is alright. It finally went for $29.00. Once again a little too rich for my blood. After my last bid, I started to hope that someone would out bid me. I started to wonder what I would actually do with this thing. That it would probably wind up in a closet as junk after about the first month of ownership.
Larry - The best way to decide if you want to put on the thicker front sway bar is to test drive a 97 to 99. They already have the thicker FRONT sway bar. There is a NOTICEABLE difference in the way the car handles with the thicker bars. There is one S turn in a road by me that used to ALWAYS require breaks and a little Ike and Tina Turner (Body "Rolling on the River.). Now it is just another turn in the road. The rear sway bar also improved the bodyroll problem, but the dirffrence was not as dramatic.
Matrixfrog: I too suffer from... Damn I own the best looking car on the street... I imagine all the neighbors saying behind my back... "Damn Mordecai owns the best looking car on the street"... Actually what they are saying is "Damn Mordecai must be dealing drugs to afford that thing"...
Never in my life did I think that I would become materialistic in my old age... After all a car is just transportation... It is a vehicle to get from point A to point B... A Pinto, A Volkswagon or a Beemer, it's all the same... NOT!!! I do own the best car on the street!!!
Mordecai
I have a 96 and it does have a problem starting when it has run for a while and then rests for 20 to 30 minutes. It's OK when cold and when starting after sitting for only a few minutes after warming up. It may be that they didn't want you to experience any hard starting.
Speaking of washing and waxing, one side-effect of the late-night detailing is a little wax (Mothers) on the plastic panels below the doors. Anyone got any good ideas/suggestions as to how to get it off?
--Robert
p.s. some not-so-great car pics (from a grey, overcast day) can be found at http://www.hammen.net/car - I hope to update this with some pics from a nice, sunny day, once I have the time...
Robert... Nice... Not to worry 'bout the cloudy day... On a cloudy day you don't have to worry 'bout the glare from the sun getting in the way of the true beauty of your loved one...
I need to warm up the camera so as to get some pictures of mine... I am heading to the mountains this weekend so I might get some pics there... By the way the Aurora does well on gravel covered curvey mountain roads...
The next time some one gets to the 139.5 mark on the speedometer, hit the cruise control and let me know what happens... Cruise control at 140, now there's a concept... Nascar look out!!!
Mordecai