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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    Over last weekend I had the opportunity to sit in the Aurora that graced our local Olds dealer's showroom - a black beauty inside and out. The leather on those seats was very soft as mentioned above and they certainly seemed both supportive and comfortable. The wood touches are tasteful and I particularly appreciated the chrome inside door handles instead of the usual plastic found in most cars today - even my Bonneville. What a great feel this car has to it - but I have not driven one. Going to have to do that one of these days just to get a feel for how it compares to the Bonneville and to try out that V-8.

    It's a beauty for sure.

    Best wishes to all

    Ken
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Did anybody see the Intrigue Special Edition at the NAIAS this year? I thought it looked cool (although I only saw it from an online perspective). It has the 17" wheels from the Aurora. The paint seems too purpleish, but that could just be the fact that I didn't see it in person. I wonder if there will be a 2003 Aurora Special Edition. If so, I wonder how special it will be... My wife really wants an Aurora too. If they do it, I hope there is some performance enhancement and not just some paint and decals.

    Why is it so easy to find picts and info on the Cadillac Cien, a car with no possible production possibility; but it is so difficult to find any info or picts of the XLR which will be coming out in 2003? GM's NAIAS website doesn't even show the XLR as being one of the cars on display there. What the heck?
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    is classified. Actually the final production version may still be up in the air with the delays of the next generation corvette. The xlr is basically the production evoq. The evoq is not the production car though. There is only one offical picture of the xlr on wieck photo data base (search for wieck).
  • fencesitter2fencesitter2 Member Posts: 7
    Local dealer has very nice 2001 dark bronzemist Aurora4.0,with heated seats,moonroof,chrome wheels and Bose system. Car was sold and returned. Has 1700 miles on it. Can be bought for 26k. What do you think gang?
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    fencesitter2 - I'd ask some questions. Try to talk to whoever returned it. Maybe the dealer can put you in touch with them. See if it was in for some major problem right at the start that perhaps troubled the first buyer. People will return cars like that sometimes for no real good reason and take the huge loss. Could it be a demo?? If it was, then it would not have been licensed - right? Not sure about that.

    Anyway, 26K for a new 4.0 sounds pretty darn cool to me. I got a great deal in March of '01 on a 98 with only 13k miles on it. I thought something must have been wrong with it, but everything checked out and it's been a great car.
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    If the car is sold as used you won't get the extended GMPP 5/60 warranty. I had the same problem when I bought my '01. It was a GM Executive car with 5100 miles (got it for $25,500) with every option except block heater and white diamond paint. Since the car was classified as used, the extended warranty doesn't transfer.

    Ask the dealer about that. If he says it does transfer...please let me know because then I'll have to raise hell and get mine.

    I'd go for it, assuming the car checks out with no major problems. Have them run the VIN and pull up the history of the car and show it to you. That will list all the work done on it by a GM dealer.

    Campo57
  • larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    You can find some pics of it here along with other soon-to-be-in-production cars at Autoweek's website:


    http://autoweek.com/specials/2002_detroit/production.mv

  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for all the info about the XLR, but it was nothing I haven't already seen. Still not much detail except it uses a Northstar and the 'vette platform. I'd like to know what state of tune the "high-performance" Northstar will be in, and what the interior will look like. I'd also be interested to know where they are pricing it.


    Back to the Aurora... As to the amount of leather in it: I know (now) the door inserts are fake, but what about the center console? It seems real to me, mostly because of the stiching. Anyone know if it is leather? I checked out Lexol's website, and I have to say their product seems better. Their explanation of using a sponge and water along with their cleaner to lift the dirt out makes sense. Their product seems sensible. I think I will use up my Meguiars and check out the Lexol. Maybe it won't be as greasy as when I used it in my 'vette...


    I was checking out a Car and Driver comparo with the Aurora in it.

    http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/comparisontests/2000/May/200005_comparisontest_vicep.xml?&keywords=aurora&page=1


    They complained about the thick steering wheel which I really like. They also cite the interior as being somewhat cheap because it goes in a lower-cost V-6 version too. I was surprised by this. The plastics have a nice soft look to them. Plus, even $80,000 cars have plastic in the dash. What should it be? All wood and chrome? I think they just felt it had to be cheap if there is a $30,000 version of the car. They mentioned that it had to be loaded up with options just to get into the price range of the other cars in the comparo... It would seem to me that this is a positive thing. It almost seemed as if they put it in last place and had to come up with bad things to justify it. I can understand the criticism that it isn't as sporty, but don't make stuff up... The Aurora was the only car that performed better in lane-change maneuvers with it's stability control on (although I don't know how they turned it off). I thought this was interesting because I think it is definitely true that traction control and stability control from one maker is not the same as from another. There is a lot of fine-tuning and programming that make them work the way they do. I think GM doesn't get enough credit for these sorts of things (or for their exceptional transmissions that are used by both BMW and Mercedes).


    One thing I find strange is that the PCS in the Intrigue can control all four brakes, while in the Aurora it only controls the fronts. I wonder if this is just because that's how it worked out optimally, or if they cheaped out and only wanted to get a two-channel system?

  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    rjs - thanks for the link. I really like C&D for factual information, but lets face it, they HAVE to be ranking things to fill the pages and most of it is subjective if not down right silly. If cars did not exist tomorrow, they would all find jobs writing articles ranking the softness of various brands of Q-tips. I'm sure the ones from Germany or Japan would have that certain feel and remove the ear-wax better too.

    Yeah - the plastic thing is a mystery to me too. The domestics seem to have a secret supply of this really "cheap" looking of feeling plastic and the imports have a monopoly on the good stuff and I'm blind and can't tell the difference I guess. I get an opportunity to ride in other peoples cars at work a lot and see a lot and I see little if any difference. One note - The Accord seats are downright minimal and not very comfortable at all for longer trips - but Edmunds actually notes the comfortable seats as something "for" the car.

    The Aurora has a back seat not to their liking, the front seat was too big (I've never heard that one before) and the steering wheel they did not like - oh boy what a crummy car. The Lexus GS 300 performance did not sound like it did too well - a little underpowered compared to the others. I submit to you that this would be a major sin if offered by a domestic, but the "L" gets the usual pass because they like some other aspect of the car so much it more than makes up for it. Typical. How about the GS styling??? I'm sorry, but I've never liked it. It's round and fat looking. There is nothing chiseled or graceful about it at all. Ah, but it is a "Lexus". So what if it is slower and ugly -the carpeting and wood trim have them hipmotized.

    And the handling thing is a bunch of crap. I just don't get an opportunity to drive like I'm weaving between pylons - this stuff is irrelevant to 99% of driving. The pylons and hair-pin roads just don't happen much if at all for most people.

    Yeah I like the steering wheel too (the 98 is fat too) and I love fat seats! I'm not fat, but the more seat I got around me the better - especially when doing the interstate cruise.

    It seems they want everything to be crossed with an M3 to some degree.

    After reading it, I'd score points for the Aurora for many of the reasons they don't like it.

    Try reading their article about the new ES 300. They describe it as "a Camry with frosting" and then basically rave about the car. Man - a Camry with frosting has got to be the most accurate and most revolting notion of a car - especially if you're paying well over 30k for the ride. But is has the "L" thing. (one neat thing in the article is that they did note a slight increase in performance with "more area under the power curve" even though peak power is the same)
  • sbeaupresbeaupre Member Posts: 21
    I have a 99 and was considering some stainless exhaust tips. I know I'll have to cut off the stock tips, but I was wondering if anyone knows the I.D. and O.D. of the stock pipe right before it hits the tips. Thanks in advace.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I hear you Garnes. I've always thought anyone who pays $32K+ (up to $40K!!) for a made-over Camry had to be a dope. I just don't see what you are paying for. Any other car gets lambasted for being numb, but apparently the Lexus has the good kind of numb. They call it "isolation" in the ES 300... I too have never thought Lexus made very stylish vehicles. They are very non-offensive. They aren't ugly, just bland.

    I also noticed in their summary that one of the Aurora "low's" was "down-in-a-hole rear seat". If anything, the rear seats are very elevated in the Aurora. You get a pretty good view out the front windshield because they are raised up.

    I get the feeling the GS 300 got high ratings because they liked the GS 430 and don't want to admit the only thing they liked about the GS 430 was the engine (which is obviously absent on the GS 300). It's an engine that costs about $9000 though (over the 300)... It had some of the worst handling and acceleration times, yet it was ranked 3rd of 8. They seem to think the Lexus performs abysmally with elegance... Apparently this sets it apart from an Aurora that hustles through their tests but "complains" while doing it. They even point out that the GS would perform better if they put on different tires; as if every freaking car they had wouldn't perform better if it were equipped specifically to compete in these tests. It seems as though this counts as much as actual performance when it comes to the Lexus, though.

    The Jag was like $43K and had a V-6. And it cost $2,000 to get the memory seats and a garage door opener that are standard on the 4.0 Aurora. The $40K BMW didn't even have leather standard!

    I'm glad I stirred up a long post from you Garnes. There hasn't been much on the board lately. I caught your dig about "area under the curve" :)

    sbeaupre: You could measure them by tightening an adjustable wrench over the pipe until it is snug and then measure the gap in the wrench. I doubt there is much difference between the interior dimension and the outer dimension. The pipe isn't that thick.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    rjs - abysmally with elegance - that's perfect. I did like their description of the Aurora V8. In fact it read as though they were stealing from one of your earlier posts. Anyway, another day I've liked my big comfortable seats and the thick steering wheel - and darn, I failed to find any pylons in the road to weave around. Oh well.

    I put a lot of Lexol on the seats this weekend. Although it doesn't smell as good as the Car Brite, I have to say that is perhaps a little better. If you use it a lot - say several liberal applications rubbed in really good within a week - I notice the leather getting progressively softer. You will be happy. My car has some years on it and I'll bet the first owner did not do anything for the leather, so going nuts like this makes a difference. A new car like yours would not need that.

    Anybody - the Old's service guy told me that Chevy is picking up the Aurora V8. Is this true? Would they drop that into and Impala for the SS or Monte for a true SS? I have not heard this one before.
  • oldsman01oldsman01 Member Posts: 1,203
    The new Nissan Altima has some rather cheap looking plastic inside, wonder if the automotive press will complain about that like they do with Olds.
  • woodranch1woodranch1 Member Posts: 35
    Thanks for the responses to my question posted several weeks ago. I have just ordered bulb replacements from eurolights.com, about $50 bucks.

    I will let you know how they work out.
  • barnett2001barnett2001 Member Posts: 2
    JUST BOUGHT A 2001 8CYL TONIGHT. DURING THE PROCESS I WAS TOLD THAT REPAIRS ARE EXTREMELY
    EXPENSIVE. I BOUGHT NO EXTENDED WARRANTY. JUST
    HAVE THE 5YR 60K. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR INFO RE:
    OUTRAGEOUSLY EXPENSIVE REPAIRS. ALSO, PAID 25K
    FOR A STANDARD 8CY. USED GM CARD DOLLARS. HOW DOES THAT SOUND? THANKS
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Barnett2001: Way to go on the V8. I'm sure you will enjoy it. I don't know about the repairs. It would probably be hard to say as the current body has only been around since 2001 (actually since early 2000). Repairs for the classic body style may not apply as much has changed. Apparently $25K is about the norm (according to NADA) for a 2001 V8. That's quite a depreciation, and quite a deal. Maybe if I decide to pick up another Aurora for the wife I will look at used ones... I'm surprised you can use your GM card earnings on a used car. Was it a program car or something? I believe you can buy GM extended warranties at any time before your current one expires.

    Garnes: I know Chevy has picked up the Aurora IRL V8. They are taking over for Olds Motorsports in IRL racing. The word from GM was that this would mean Chevy would be fielding a race engine that is not based on a production engine (not in a production Chevy anyways) ,which is allowed. As far as I know Chevy isn't using the Aurora V8 in any production cars, and it seems more likely that this engine would go to Buick. Buick doesn't have any V8's in their lineup (along with Saturn) and have the type of crowd that might appreciate the smooth V8 more. Really, I can't believe old people like the 3800 in the LeSabre and Park Avenue. I can understand the Century as it is their low end. It makes sense in the sportier Regal GS purely because of it's grunt, but the Regal is Buick's worst-selling car. The Impala SS and Monte Carlo SS are rumored to go back to rear-wheel drive cars. This would enable the use of an LS-1 derivative that would be cheaper and probably more popular with the Chevy crowd than a smaller DOHC V8 would be (hey, I love the Chevy V8).
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I guess I edit my messages too much... Now I get to retype everything...

    Oldsman01: I hear you on the Altima. I keep expecting car mags to drop the other shoe. The interior is hideous. Those gauges are awful!! I'm not too fond of the exterior either. I hate the clear taillights, and the car looks a bit like a balloon. Plus, it soars up to almost $30k once you add things like ABS (not standard!) and leather.

    Anyone notice how companies are touting steering-wheel-mounted controls like it is some new thing? This really annoys me. Just like Volvo claiming to have invented seatbelts (Ford did) and that Mercedes timeline commercial where they point out the dates Mercedes added new features to their cars, and imply that these were inventions for Mercedes, which isn't the case. Hey, anyone remember the navigation system that Oldmobile debuted in 1995 (called Guidestar)?

    I've only ever owned GM cars, and only ever cared much about American cars. Therefore my experience is limited about the subtleties of other cars. Plus, the thing I am curious about aren't the things you see in brochures or on websites. You have to own the car or know someone with one. Anyone know if non-GM cars have the subtle personalization features that GM has? Like how long to have the interior lights on for, and whether to lock the doors when you start driving, or whether to unlock them once you park again, or even things like the theater dimming (which I love) or the auto-dimming rearview mirror, or even automatic headlights? Many of these things have been on GM cars since the early 90's. Even trip computers are rare on non-GM cars, but just about every GM car has them. For many of these things, it seems like GM is way ahead of the game. The Corvette had ABS in 1986, and traction control in 1993 (traction control was an option on the Jag XK8 until 2000). In 1984 the Corvette had a trip-like computer that could display average mileage, instant mileage, trip-odometer, estimated range, and such things as oil and coolant temp, voltage, and oil pressure. It even told you if the coolant was low. By 1986 (and maybe in 1984) it could monitor for low pressure in a tire. I just think that GM does a lot of the little things well, but doesn't get much credit for them. On a test-drive or a magazine comparo those little things don't really come into play. However, over years of ownership they really make you appreciate a car.

    Tipsicobob: Interesting note about wheelspin. I never thought about the loading of the frame by the engine. Do any or most front-drivers use limited-slips?
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    rjs - the V8 in a Buick indeed makes sense. The luxury and performance would certainly be enhanced at the same time (but profits on those cars at a similar price would certainly not be). The 4.0 V8 could work well in a front drive performance version of the Impala or Monte I guess, but I admit that it seems like a strange engine to be in a Chevy lineup.

    I also read on C&D a review of the Accord with the 4 banger. They noted it was so quiet that you could not tell the engine was running. I had to re-read that to make sure I was not missing something. I get to drive an '01 Accord from time to time and have always noticed the large amount of vibration making it's way right to the steering wheel. I attribute this to any 4 cylinder really. Maybe this new Accord I've driven has a problem, but I don't think so. It seems just fine, but doesn't resemble the descriptions in the magazine reviews at all. More and more I discount the subjective stuff (which is the bulk of these articles). It rarely seems to mirror real life driving experience in any way.

    Clear tail light plastic - it seems to be a popular aftermarket thing with the greasy kids that also put on the coffee-can exhaust tips, but that doesn't seem to make it a minus to any import that come from the factory that way.

    Plastic - My 98 sure seems nice - so does the Impala.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Just a thought - I read so much about rotor problems. The local Goodyear shop torques the crap out of the lugs when rotating tires. The owners manual says 100 lb-ft and that over torquing can hurt the rotors. I finally bought the best Craftsman there was and re-do it myself and use a little WD-40 to make sure the lugs don't bind up when torquing. I go to 102 just for a little insurance.

    I wonder how many warped "crummy" rotors were really just killed by the goobers at these service places.

    rjs - oh yeah, I've noticed that to about the standard features on the domestics. A lot of them are really very nice and have been around forever.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Garnes, you should not put WD-40 on the screws. They should be clean, but not lubed. You can buy anti-seize for wheel bolts that prevents them from binding, but doesn't make them slippery. The WD-40 can cause them to loosen up. You should clean that off of them. If they are binding, clean them up with a wire brush. You could probably use a brake cleaner to help if they are really bad. Brake cleaner doesn't lubricate, and removes oils and such that are there. You definitely don't want your wheel bolts lubed. If you really want to put something on them, then use an anti-seize. Anti-seize isn't really a lube, it just helps things go on smoother and eventually come off. Anti-seize is used on spark plugs, head bolts, and other things that have to stay torqued, yet need some help to tighten up properly, or that need help ensuring they can eventually be removed.

    I too hate when shops torque the crap out of the wheel lugs. It can definitely warp the rotors, can damage calipers from the warped rotors, can break the mounting bolts(or worse, stress and crack them without breaking), can warp the wheels, and all sorts of other problems. Not to mention the agony it causes if you get a flat tire and have to break them loose with the puny little bar in most trunks. Anytime my car goes to a shop where they take the wheels off, I loosen up the lugs and then retighten them.

    Just a tip: If you are going to jack your car up, make sure to break the wheel lugs loose while it is still on the ground. If you try to break them loose while on a jack, you might pull the car off of it. Same thing with tightening them. Tighten them up somewhat, but wait until it is back on the ground to crank them down to the specified torque.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    I'll check again, but I swear the torque wrench instructions said to lubricate the lug nuts.

    Thanks. I'll check this out.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    should not be lubed. You don't want them to come off while you are driving.

    Regarding the Aurora's 4.0 engine, the entire northstar engine line is being redesigned, so if buick gets a V8, it should be one of the new ones, not an old one. Buick may get one of the trick dual cam V8's with 3 valves per cylinder and VVT. A prototype gets 300 hp and 295 ft-lbs from 4.3 liters.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Ok, how about just taking them off and using a rag with lacquer thinner to strip any remaining WD 40 from the lug and the hole?? What do you think?
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    If they've been on the car with the wd40 for a while (a few hundred miles) and they haven't come off, then you are probably ok. If you just did this then the thinner would work. WD40 is fairly thin anyway. I wouldn't do this again though.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    fjk - thanks. I was thinking that the WD is pretty thin too and it doesn't seem to have much of a life span.

    The local garage indicated that they didn't think it would loosen, but that the torque rating is for a dry nut and that any lubrication would allow a bit more force to be transmitted to the wheel than intended. Yet another angle. Man, I feel as though I left the baby on top of the car or something.

    I swear the goofy wrench instructions said to do this, but apparently it's not good.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    The wrench instructions may have been for torqueing down nuts in general and not specifically car nuts. Anyway, if you read your owners manual instuctions I think it may say something about not lubing the bolts on the wheels.
  • jephjephjephjeph Member Posts: 17
    Just found out my Sterling Aurora 4.0 is scheduled for delivery Feb 12th; can't wait. One thing that is a bit wierd-- I got a quote on extended warranty for the aurora from a well known GM dealer on the net, and he quoted me on 4 yr 50k miles, etc, when obviously it comes with a longer warranty already. I emailed back and asked about that, and he called into GM and it turns out the only way to get "credit" for the 5 year 60k mile warranty is to do it with the dealer who is performing the delivery.

    Oh well, guess I won't be getting out of sales tax.

    Actually, given that my insurance provider has a pretty good mechanical breakdown policy, I may skip the GMPP completely.
  • barnett2001barnett2001 Member Posts: 2
    RJS200240, This is a new 2001. Only has 115 miles
    on it, that is why the gm points were used.
    Thanks.
  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    Auction ended today on E-Bay for a 2K1 Aurora 3.5 with 22K miles. It went for under $18K. That's a fantastic price for a one year old car that lists for $30K new. The car is in Canada so perhaps the currency conversion accounts for a good bit of the bargain.

    Just shows though that there will continue to be very good deals around for 1-2 year old Auroras for the next couple of years.

    Best wishes to all
    Ken
  • benji123benji123 Member Posts: 104
    Hi all,

    I have a pristine teal 1995 Aurora that I would like to sell privately. Any suggestions as to where I could advertise? I'm in Los Angeles. Thanks!

    Ben
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    If you aren't in a hurry, try some free sites like yahoo and autotrader.com. I think MSN might have free ads as well.

    If that doesn't work, then start paying. I would think your local paper would be the best bet.
  • realyecatrealyecat Member Posts: 29
    Could you tell us the 25k you paid is before or after your GM card points? If it's after, then what price is it before points?

    And how did you find a V8 with no options?
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Check out this link to Caddyinfo.com where they show a lot of different Northstar exhaust performance options. They have a picture of a 2001 Aurora up in the air with the Corsa exhaust system. Cool. Maybe I should do this to the 98 after all.

    http://web2.airmail.net/nunnally/sts/stsmuffler.htm

    Anybody notice the Edmunds review of the new Acura RSX? They tested the 4 cylinder and it did not have much power at all I guess. Funny thing is that they give you data on braking and handling, but I did not see anything for acceleration. Gee, I wonder why? It just seems that when an import doesn't measure up, it really gets glossed over. Correct me if I missed something, but that is weird.
  • vcjumpervcjumper Member Posts: 1,110
    Are you talking about the one in the sport coupe comparison test it won? It has the 0-60 and 1/4 times for all the cars in the test on a separate page.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    vcjumper - Nope. The review on the main page of the "regular" RSX - not the Type S.

    After looking at the Type S performance, I have to believe the regular version should perform quite well. That's still a lot of power for such a light car. They did not seem to be impressed though and did not list anything - but maybe I missed it.

    One other note, barely more than 30 mpg on the highway from a 2700 lb car with a manual transmission is not too good and with the city at 24 that doesn't help much either. Basically, a significant portion of the performance is achieved by cashing out a lot of the economy you would expect from such a small car by gearing the car very aggressively. When you can find cars that literally weigh almost 800 lbs more that get similar fuel economy, you know something was sacrificed to get the performance. I'm not an economy minded driver, and certainly performance and economy don't mix, but I still think the gearing is a little hoaky. Just MHO.
  • barneyeabarneyea Member Posts: 20
    I have a new three volume set of service manuals for the 1998 Aurora/Riviera ("G" Platform)
    Before putting them on ebay, I thought I would post them here. Sell new for $120, will take $80 including shipping inside US.
    Contact me at Barney@texas.net
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    Just changed out the factory oil in the 2002 4.0L. Changed at 2870 miles, oil life at 58%, 130 days on the clock. Eight full quarts of Mobil-1 0W30 @ $4.49 + Mobil-1 filter @ 11.99 = $51.44 with tax. I like to do things myself, and when you insist on the best food for your baby, it is the only to justify the cost. The dipstick was still at the full mark before the change, I think that I broke it in right. I like to use the 0W30 stuff (only mentioned in the service manuals, not the owners manual) for the start-up lube properties. Since it is now on a diet of pure synthetic, I will let it run all the way to 0% on the oil life monitor before the next change, and keep an eye on consumption. Still absolutly love this car!
  • gm_litogationgm_litogation Member Posts: 168
    Anyone experienced a slight rattle/click in the left side of your dash? I can hear it when driving over rough surfaces. It's very annoying and I can't seem to find it anywhere.

    Oh ya I have a beautiful cappuccino 2001 Aurora 3.5. Thanks for any help.
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    The first thing that I would suspect is the plastic cowling on the outside at the bottom of the windshield (around the wipers). The sound it makes when it is loose sounds like it is inside the car. There is a clip that holds it down, and if it is loose or missing, it can click on bumps and rattle in the wind at high speeds. The most common rattles I have in my 2002 are from improperly aligned keys! Actually another possible source is the cup holder. It sometimes rattles when open and empty over very bumpy roads. One last possibility, is there anything in the little cubby to the left of the steering wheel, or is the door to it loose?
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Hardesty - great choice on the M1 oil and filter. I've been using them since 17k or so. And yeah, I do it myself too. Otherwise an M1 job would really be expensive.

    You guys might find this interesting - I grabbed a sample (got the container from the dealer that the lab uses)of oil from the last change and had it analyzed at the lab. I have not been billed yet but it is about $30 I think.

    I had 2,955 miles on the oil. The car has about 26k miles.

    I discussed the results with the lab and apparently the "wear metals" were extremely low and they said the car was doing much better than average. This is so even when factoring for the dilution due to the 8 quarts of oil. For example, they measured 14 ppm of iron and they said normal was 50 to 100 ppm. If the car held 4.5 quarts, I guess that number might be 25 or so. Still doing great. Aluminum only measured 1 ppm. Dirt (silicon) was only 4 ppm - again factored for the dilution, I guess it might be 7 on a 4.5 quart car. They said you want to see dirt below 19 ppm. So I guess the K&N and my modified air box are doing just fine.

    They did attribute the low wear numbers to the better protection of the M1 oil. I personally think the biggest edge of protection comes from the fact that it flows so much better at cold start-ups, and the rest is that it doesn't shear as much under stress.

    They said their tests were for particles in the 7 micron range which will pass through an M1 filter too. They also said that regular filters only filter down to about 25 microns or so and that the high efficiency of the M1 down to 10 microns definitely helps reduce the wear in addition to the oil's performance.

    The 8 quarts in the engine do help dilute contaminants and reduce the engine's wear too.

    They also said that the discoloration of the M1 oil (Probably regular oil too I guess) to a brownish color over time was a normal color change from being heated and cooled. Having your oil look a little dirty after a thousand or two miles is good too and shows that the oil's "detergents" are doing their job. The days of "look how clean the oil is after 3,000 miles" doesn't mean anything - or might not be so good.

    I guess I could go a lot longer between changes, but they did note that the more frequent the change, the less the contaminants accumulate (at least those too small for the filter to pick up).

    No antifreeze in the oil, and no leaks, so I guess having to add a dribble (less than an ounce I'm sure) every 6,000 to 8,000 miles is normal and somehow a little evaporates.
  • gm_litogationgm_litogation Member Posts: 168
    I'll try that this weekend, I think it my be the clip on the outside, I can't seem to find it anywhere else. I've also checked the more obvious things like the cupholder, and cubby hole.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    I went out to start my aurora this morning and to clear off the frost. It was 15 degress out. I started it up and turned on the rear defrosters and the front defrosters and my car gave a muffled back fire sound and died. I restarted it and left the front defroster off to put less of a strain on the engine cause of the a/c having to be on when the defrosters are on. anywas I was running fine and I let it warm up for another 3-4 mintues and left for work. As soon as I pulled outta my driveway I noticed that when I pushed down on the gas pedle it was putt and feel like it was going to stall. Well I only live about 1 mile away from my work so I kept driving it barely pressing down on the gas. I decided to rev it higher and if it stalled then it stalled so I pushed the pedal to the floor and it went faster but it felt like there was a decent power loss. For some time I have put off getting a new fuel pressure regulator. Could this be the problem? Today is the first time it happend when it was very very cold out some Im thinking the temperature played a part in this. I'm going to go check it out during my lunch break. It's risen about another 10 degrees since then. I'll post what happens. I hate when cars break :o(
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    When the temperature is below freezing, the A/C compressor should not run. If you fuel pressure regulator is not working right, it could be the problem. When mine was not working they wouldn't let me continue driving the car while they got one in.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    It sounds like the car is starving for fuel to me and sounds like the fuel regulator.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Member Posts: 180
    Turns out it was some water/condinsation in the fuel lines/gas tank. Most likely the water came from the time I lost my gas cap and had to buy a new one. I only had a little less than quarter of a tank that morning. I put in some more gas and a bottle of iso-heet and it runs great.

    Why did olds decide to make the a/c come on with the defrosters? It is incredibly annoying and why would they do this when you use it to clear/unfog your front windshield in the cold winter mornings?

    Has anyone in here done the fuel pressure regulator install themselves? I can get one with a lifetime warrenty for $70 and Im just curious as to hard hard the install is. I dont think it should be too hard, it located right underneth the plastic Aurora engine cover. Anything I should know before do this? Also how much did the people who had this done pay? If the price of labor is right maybe I'll just have the dealership do it.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    I think all automakers have the a/c come on during defrost mode to keep the compressor from locking up due to inactivity. It's like the parking brake use it or lose it.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Actually, the A/C turns on to help defrost the window. The air that has gone through the A/C procedure has significantly less humidity than the outside air. This makes a substantial difference in how the defroster works on the inside of the glass. If you've ever been in a car where you can turn off the compressor while it's set on defrost, or in a car without A/C at all you will know what I mean. Usually the window will start to fog up worse as warm, relatively humid air is blown against a cold windshield.

    Really, defroster is a misnomer. It basically defogs the window. If you have frost on the window, you are much better off getting out and physically removing it.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Even thought the A/C light is on, if the outside temperature is below freezing, the compressor is not likly to be running. It will run when above freezing to take humidity out of the air. You can check this out by just looking under the hood.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    SCIENCE being used in this room. Surely this concentration of brain power is agaisnt the TOS provisions. Pat?
  • kcb2kcb2 Member Posts: 22
    We just sold our 96 Aurora. It didn't go without a fight. On the way home from having it appraised by Carmax the car lost all power and would not start again. We had to have it towed. When the tow truck man tried to straighten the wheels without the power steering just to load it on his truck, the steering wheel column broke. Turns out that it was attached by four pins and one had fallen out, so the extra pressure just caused it to give. We had to get a new altenator and have the steering wheel repaired just to get it back in saleable condition. We are ready to start over with something else even though the Aurora only had 69,300 miles on it. The Service Engine Soon light was on because of an input speed sensor that had gone bad in the transmission and the A/C was also out. I have noticed that there are several TSB's out on steering wheel noise and I am wondering if there are others out there with a steering column just waiting to break. We are thankful that we weren't driving it when it broke. The mechanic said it could just as easily have gone on the highway. BTW, I know we could have done better selling it ourselves than selling to Carmax, but with the needed repairs it was a close call.
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