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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • So how long till your ready to part with that 97 brochure. Forgot to mention that part of the 1/4 mile experience was a carshow which I entered in order to make the track runs. The Aurora won second place in the 90 to present class in the show and shine. First place went to a beautiful yellow convertible Prowler which didn't run on the track. I believe they have six cylinders and have no idea how fast they are.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    The new and improved prowler went from 214 h.p., to 250 h.p. in a 2800~ pound car. That's a pretty good power to weight ratio.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    But not great for a $50,000 two-seater convertible with no luggage room. You are basically paying for the image. It's the same motor as in the 300M. You'd get smoked by Mustangs and Camaros in one of those things. I guess you could pretend that dragging doesn't interest you, but then it might seem a bit odd that you'd have bought a car like the Prowler in the first place.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Y are we talking about Mopar here????
  • Henri - see my Garnes brochure post a few back, that's what started it.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Got the road force balance done on my '98 today. The original numbers were in the 50's on each tire - they did all 4, but were only able to get one (right front) at or below spec (spec is 10, it's at 5 - the rest are 37 (left front), 25 (right rear), and 33 (left rear). The Tire Centers service manager said the rims were fine, it's the tires (Dunlop SP Sport A2's) that are the problem here.

    I test-drove the car afterwards. Where I used to have a vibration between 65 and 74 mph (not that I travel that fast :-) :-) :-), now it's between 65 and 69, with still a bad shake at 67.

    I think it's time to talk to the dealer I purchased the Dunlops from (4 1/2 months and 7000 miles ago) to see what they can do for me. FYI, I paid $52.55 total for the balance, and they worked on it for over an hour...

    --Robert
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    Maybe you have a busted chord or steel belt in your tire. ??? What about front end alignment?
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    I had the road force balance done on my suburban last week to fix the vibration. It took them over 2 hours and they had to switch which tires were on which rims and they also flipped some of them so the other sidewall was facing out. When all was said and done, Got them all 30 or less (which is ok for all-terrain tires) with 3 of them under 10. It just took them a lot of time to do it.

    I would say you should be able to get those tires that are out of spec replaced under warranty. Or at the very least, get the tire shop to pay for the cost of getting them matched up right. It's ridiculous that vibration is such a problem - tire quality should be higher than that with the advanced manufacturing stuff we have these days.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    From the little I picked up when I had my wheels done, it sounds like you have three tires that are way off the chart and absolutely no good. They were telling me that the limit was 16. After they were done I had two in the 5 range and the other two in the 10 range. Apparently I had two over 16 from the start. I'd definitely demand some new tires even if you get pro-rated for some of the use.

    I'm sorry to hear you are going through this. I know what it's like. Back and forth extreme hassles and all you want is your smooth ride back.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    OK, here is where I got mine:

    PJ's Auto Literature
    PO Box 233
    Reinbeck, IA 50669

    Phone 319-345-6760
    fax 319-345-9981

    www.pjsautolit.com

    Email & eBay User ID - [email protected]

    "35,000 different items"

    Musclecar97 - I think I want to hang on to my 97 for now because it has a larger and nicer print of the power curves than the 98. They are the exact same curve, but on the 98, it's reduced quite a bit smaller.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Actually, the manufacture of tires isn't all that advanced. The actual strips are still hand-laid. Pirelli introduced an automated machine recently than can make tires with much tighter tolerances. It was sort of a shake-up from the normal way of making them. I found it pretty surprising that the actual construction involved hand-labor so much. I'm sure the making of the compounds is pretty advanced and all, but apparently the construction isn't.

    Garnes, I'd hang on to it too. I wish I'd hung on to the 2001 brochure I had. It had neat-o onionskin pages in between each glossy page. They dropped it for 2002 probably to reduce the cost. The 2001 brochure was real slick while the 2002 is fairly ordinary.
  • My second set of tires, Yokohama AVIDs, are in need replacement.

    I have the autobahn package and of course have used the V rated tires.

    Has anyone used less expensive H rated on Auroras with the Autobahn pakage? Any drop in performance?

    Thanks
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I take it you mean handling when you say performance (i.e. driving performance).

    I am faced with that very same question now. Time to get rid of the Toyos (after 2 short years) and move along.

    My mechanic suggests Hankook tires.

    Thoughts opinions SWAGs????
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I take it that you did not like the Yokohamas. Please tell me your views on them since they were on my list of tires to consider.

    How many miles did you get out of them?
    Wet weather traction?
    snow traction?
    cornering?
    Give us the 411!
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have been told that Michlin is having quality control issues with their tires and perhaps a Firestone would be a better choice over the Michelins.

    Is this true, or is it up there with the rear window makes the 95's and 96's hold the road better?

    See, not so gullible the second time around.
    I am still waiting to see the first pictures of the Aurora 442 edition.

    Smile smile smile
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Just to answer my own questions, I got about 2.3 years and 23K out of the Toyos. I thought the wet weather was good and the snow was okay. The car would only slide on straight ice and did okay in the snow.

    To be fair to the Toyos, they did meet the life expectancy of a Z rated tire. The guy at STS Tires told me to expect to have them about 2 years when I brought them. On dry pavement I was able to do some pretty extreme driving manuvers without fear.

    I am not buying them again because I do not want to be replacing my tires two years from now again (although the edition of the 17" Y2K wheels might make this point moot).

    Are ther any tires out there that anybody would NOT buy again for the Classic???

    I would like to know which tires made your crappy list.

    Thanks in advance,

    Henri
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    RJS - you should see the 97 & 98 brochure, or probably any for the classic. They are really nice. The 2001 or 02 is kind of cheezy by comparison.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    I'm currently rolling on 235/40 ZR18 Nitto eXtreme tires, no problems here I and had them for about 2 years, only used in summer though for about 6 or so months. For regular or everyday tires I'm thinking about buying some Dunlops or something along that way. Look for me at http://www.cardomain.com/ under "Javidogg". Peace.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I put Dunlop SP Sport A2 tires on my '95 classic. It's got Autobahn and I have no problem with the tires at all. They have great grip in both dry/wet cornering and acceleration. I would buy them again without a second thought.

    You can see my initial thoughts (a few months ago) on the tires here.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    I have a 2002 Aurora 4.0 with the 17" Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus...Green X tires. 235/55/R17 These are suppose to be an improvement over the previous version of this tire.

    These tires ride GREAT!!!! but do not hold up, read on...

    RJS knows my tale of the FIRST of these tires going bad on me when my wife BACKED UP 3 FEET and bumped a 4" curb at a local supermarket. It put a hole in the sidewall of the tire big enough to put 2 fingers thru. That replacement bill was around $200 since at the time there was not offered a add-on road hazard warranty at the dealership, since then I have bought road hazard add-on policy for $75.

    Yesterday at a intersection turning left, I was behind 2 cars turning left, I followed on left and a car was running the red light from the right had side of the crossing traffic. I had to stop and jump a small curb to avoid being hit broadside with my wife in the passenger seat, remember I had just come from a stop at the light and was not going fast at all maybe 5 mph if that.

    I pulled over to a parking lot just beyond the intersection to check both driver's side tires. The back seemed OK but the front had a BUBBLE protruding from the side wall. The dealer said it had split from the side wall, but it is still driveable.

    I will be replacing THIS tire today at an expense of $200 AGAIN. Needless to say, I will not be driving on Michelin tires as soon as these wear out. (If I get that far). I do not race or drive my new car fast or dangerous. I treat it with kid gloves. If I had been out driving fast or dangerous on either of these suitations, I would understand the tire crapping out but my wife is also a VERY safe driver.

    Has anyone else with the New Aurora had similiar problems???

    Thanks for listening...
    Steve
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Man, that's pretty strange. I haven't had any probs with my tires. With about 11,000 miles on them, they appear to be wearing just fine. I could be a little more understanding of the front blow-out, though, because of the impressive amount of weight on them. There is about 1200 lbs on each front tire without the driver (who's weight is probably mostly on the fronts too). Whereas the rears only have about 700 lbs on them. I usually put an extra pound of pressure in the fronts (even though the factory recommendation is the same front to rear). Plus, I fill/check them in the garage, so that probably adds about a pound to each tire once they are outside (at least in the summer). So mine are essentially at 32/31psi F/R. However, that might actually increase the likelyhood of a blow-out from impact. Do you keep the pressures up higher than the recommendation?

    I guess I'll start making sure my spare is in good condition. Sorry to hear about your second blow-out... I can imagine it would be frustrating. Why is it $200? They are only $135 from the Tire Rack. With shipping and install I'd think $170 max. Plus, doesn't your road-hazard warranty cover it? If not, then you hardly need to have it. It seems your most common tire problem isn't covered by it...
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS- I talked with Michelin and they sent me to a local dealer that does their warranty work. I called the tire dealer and he said that in most cases on new cars, the have a 15K grace period where they can at the Michelin's rep's OK give a replacement. We will see. More tomorrow.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I still have the original Goodyear Eagle GA's (no autobahn) on my 98 Aurora. They have 50,000 except for the one the went flat and was replaced with a used Eagle GA. At 40,000 I expected to get to 50,000 and now I expect to get close to 60,000 or at least 55,000. I have not had any balance problems. Warped rotors are another matter though.
  • I know it's trivial, but I REALLY DON'T LIKE the stupid sound of the turn signal in my Classic. It sounds soooooo cheap. Does anyone know if there's a way to modify it to sounds differently?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    mariposarosada - I've never heard of a turn signal sound being described as cheap - oh wait, yes, I'm sure there is at least one car review that criticized the sound of it along with the plasticy stuff.

    Try finding a Lexus in the bone yard and use their signal click sounder/whatever. I'm sure they have the definitive luxury sound for the turn signal. You know, that ES isn't just a fancy Camry, it's got the ultimate turn signal sound.

    If you get one from an LS, well that signal sound comes through the Levinson stereo system. It's so good you might leave it on for hours as you cruise down the highway on purpose. Ever see a Lexus with the signal on while cruising? - well that's why.

    Too bad GM can't get this right.

    Sorry - no offence. Just goofing. Couldn't resist.
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    I removed my turn signal can, wrapped it in foam tape and put it back into the clip that holds it under the dash. It muffles the sound quite nicely.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS- I called Michelin 800 # and they referred me to a authorized dealer here in OKC.
    They adjusted out the tire for me. My part of the tire purchase being around $40. Then I had the front end re-aligned at a discount rate and the whole tab for today was $75.
    If I had just bought the new tire by itself, it would have been around $140 plus all of the ad-ons that go with the tire purchase, so you were right on your estimate of costs.
    I sent THAT bill into my "Road Hazard" insurance place for a full refund. The dealership was just going to replace the tire at NO pro-rating around $160, plus the other stuff.
    I also read on one of the other "Edmunds Boards" that most all new tires on new cars are different from the Replacement tires you buy at all of the tire dealers across the nation. The factory tires are built to a cheaper specs. sheet. The post said to go to the TPC code on the tire and look there.

    In answer to your questions: I run 30-31psi in tires. I check it weekly in the early morning hours before I drive it.

    Thanks for your help,
    Steve
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Man, my security light came on, on my dash. I hope is nothing serious. The weird thing is that it just stays on, then after I finish driving and I park, then I'll come back turn on the car and the light will be off by now. Weird.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Man, my security light came on, on my dash. I hope is nothing serious. The weird thing is that it just stays on, then after I finish driving and I park, then I'll come back turn on the car and the light will be off by now. Weird.
  • I hear the Dunlops are good.

    FJK - I thought I had a warped rotor the way the car was thumping in the front. Either that or a bad cv joint. When I got new tires "Toyo's" and had them force balanced the other day all of the shaking, thumping and vibrations went away. Tires in balance and not internally breaking apart make a HUGE difference. My guess would be that the original tires you have are in need of replacement. Garnes posted about tires he had once on another car that the tread lasted forever.

    javidogg - The security light always comes on and flashes when you turn off the car, nothing to worry about.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If the security light comes on when drivng, it means the the anti theft system has failed (no longr operating) for some reason. This has happnd to me and the fix hase been to use the reset button on the alrm system.

    Hope this helps.

    I once entered the car, sat down and noticed taht the security light was on even though the system was suppose to be off since I just opened the car wth the clicker.

    the car would not let me start it or do anything.
    I had to press the rest button a few times before the system reset and allowed me to start the car.

    Hope this helps

    Henri
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The one thing i did not mention is that my Toyos have all dry rotted. I understand that the tread may be low, but I do not understand why the tires dry roted after only two years of use.

    I hope you have btter luck with them than I did.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    We both have 95's. Where is the reset button you are talking about for the security light? On the tire subject, I have the autobahn pkg and after my original mv4's, I tried a brand called ziex from NTB and everyone commented how wide the tires looked, but they only lasted a couple of years. I am now trying the Michelin symetry tires for the past 16k miles which are rated at 99 mph instead of the v rated tires which are much higher and I like the ride much better than my previous two sets.
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Posts: 65
    I have a 96 and I find the security light can be reset by turning off the ignition and re starting or pressing the panic button "on and off" on the key fob. It also goes off on it's own after about 5 to 10 minutes of driving. My light does not come on that often but the wiring on our classics is very complex as everything is integrated. Ignition,interior lights,exterior lights,horn and door locks are all connected to the alarm system in some way. For a while at night while driving I had an intermittent problem with my interior lights going on when I pressed the brake pedal. That problem was eliminated when I cleaned the manual light switch connections on the steering wheel. Great auto though, even though I thought it was haunted for a while
  • Does GM use a used Pepsi or Coke can for this? Seriously. Where is this thing? Under the dash you say, but where exactly? I might try the foam thing. Either that, or an air horn. he he.

    BTW, does the Aurora (Classic) yell at you if you leave the signal on for a while? I'd try it out myself, but would feel kind of stupid. Maybe I'll wear a blue wig.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    If the turn signal is on too long, the car makes the same sound it makes if you leave your keys in the ignition and open the driver side door.

    the car "bings' it does not yell.

    The Aurora is no street brawler (unless you try to take it at a red light). ;)
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    Gisom: I have a '95 also. According to my owners manual we don't have a security alarm in our cars. I think Henry's was added. My security light did go on one day and stayed on throughout the day as I stopped and started the car (engine) several times in my normal driving routine. Owners manual said that signaled a failure in the SecureKey system. Car would still start but not have the secure key protection. The next day, the light was off and hasn't been on since. (I love it when the car fixes itself!).

    I have left my turn signal on a few times and the DIC alerts you to it with a chime and message: 'Turn Signal On?'.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    My alram is the same GM alrm tat comes from the factory. However, judging from prior feedback I received on the topic, the alarm was added by the dealer. this seems to make sense since I had to take the car back to the dealer to have the alrm serviced. The dealer had hooked up the alarm so that if the alarm sounded, you could press the unlock button on the door to shut the alarm off. I had that changed.

    I would suggest you ask the dealer where the reset button is for the alarm. Hopefully a servce tech at the dealer would know. Mine is underneth the dash board directly beneath the steering column.

    I don't know if it will be in the same place for you. In any event , it is ai little red button.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    You realize that you just have to do something about the sound of the turn signal click.

    Also, if you want to change the car's chime to a Westminster chime, consider yourself equally obsessed.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I only notice the vibration when I step on the brakes and then mainly at higher speeds. So I suspect that the problem is a warped rotor. They were turned once after the front calipers "hung" and burn up the front pads. So, my guess is the front rotors were "toasted".
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    The "can" is under the dash, next to the steering column. You have to remove the plastic panel that hides all the wires and stuff under there.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Well guys, my Aurora is gone. Finished the sale yesterday. No more exhiliration for me. Of course, there will be lots of camping and off-roading in the new 99 diesel suburban. Was really sad to see the baby go. Hopefully the new owner will be on here soon.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Garnes, that post was hilarious. Especially about the Mark Levinson audio. But, you forgot that there aren't any ES's at the junkyard. They are all running flawlessly delighting their owners with the lack of repairs needed and their perfect* driving dynamics (* Disclaimer: Perfect only applys to Lexus' that drive like this. Transfer of dynamics to other cars will result in cars being called "floaty", "slow", or "vanilla" and may cause car to be compared to water-going craft).

    Steve, glad to hear it didn't cost you a fortune to repair that tire. That's really strange that you'd have two of them blow out. I've never had a tire blow out in my life. That's also interesting about the factory tires being cheaper. It's not surprising, though.

    Shucknet, sorry to hear you parted ways with the Aurora. You never know, though. It may not be your last experience with one. Best of luck with the Sub.

    FJK57702, "So I suspect that the problem is a warped rotor. They were turned once after the front calipers "hung" and burn up the front pads." Uh, yeah, I think that would do it...
  • Hey ya'll. My horn and controls for the audio and climate system have stopped working. Is there a harness or fuse that controls all of these that could be giving me these problems.

    Your help is appreciated.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Did you get an aftermarket radio, the reason I ask is because the same thing happen to me after I had installed a Kenwood eXelon aftermarket radio unit, I lost all my steering wheel controls. Over at http://www.crutchfield.com they told me that I can purchase a separate harness that would allow me to use my steering wheel controls once again but, for 60 or 70 dollars, I don't think so. Peace.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I'll move the tire discussion here. Those run-flat Michelins are interesting, but the extra-thick sidewalls can have some detrimental handling. Also, the tires will be much heavier, and you ought to have an active tire-pressure monitor rather than the passive one the Aurora has. The passive system uses tire revolution to determine if a tire is low or flat, but run-flats won't change diameter much because the side-wall is so stiff. So it might not be able to tell the tire is flat (and you might not notice because the ride doesn't degrade much). The expense and balance problems inherent with mounting a tire-pressure monitor in the tires seem like a bit of a turn-off to me. So that is something to consider.

    If you want a tire that can handle impacts without blowing up, you might try looking at the weight ratings of the tires. The ones that can handle more weight will probably do better on sharp impacts like you've had problems with. However, it's possible that replacement MXV4's are more durable since you pointed out that oftentimes OEM tires are made more cheaply. I wonder if you could find out from Michelin or Olds if that's the case. I'd think Michelin would want to let you know so that you don't dismiss their MXV4's based on your OEM experience with them.

    Steve, would you replace the tires with something else this soon, though? How many miles have you put on them so far? I've only put about 11,000 on mine. They barely even look worn. It seems a shame to swap them out so soon, except I can understand given your experience with yours thus far. When you had the tire replaced at the dealer, they didn't grab another OEM one off some Aurora on the lot did they? It wasn't the replacement that blew up the second time, was it?
  • I put on some Dunlop Sport A2's when I put on my AAA chrome rims about 2000 miles ago. I have no complaints about these tires or rims. The Dunlops grip way better than the Goodyear GA's that where on there. The Dunlops I believe are the only tire in our size 235-60-16 with a AA traction rating. There classified as High Performance All-Season through tirerack. Got the Road hazard package with free rotations. I do have a slight vibration at certain speeds, Going to look into the road force balance, the Just Tires I bought them at, don't have one. They re-aligned and balanced twice for nothing and made it hardly noticeable. But I think I'll get them road forced anyways. I know the guys at the tire place and watched them do everything, so I know there not at fault. I don't have that glass smooth ride anymore. Amazing how touchy the balancing is on these cars. Road force here I come. What did you guys pay for yours?

    800wattAURORA
  • When you put your aftermarket radio in, did you lose the horn, too? I can live without the stereo/climate controls on the wheel, but the horn is essential. Especially to pass inspection.

    BTW, I lost a center cap on one of my wheels. Anybody ever have to buy one from the dealer? Are they as outrageously priced as I think?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Try a place like Hubcap Heaven first to replace it. I imagine the dealer will be a bit more costly.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    Bob,
    After reading your post, it doesn't sound like the "Run Flat" tires will do.

    Weight ratings sound like the way to go.

    Will have to check in on OEM tires and replacements. I think I still have OEM tires that were replaced the orig OEM's.

    No, the tire was new on both tires.They had to get it from the Michelin Dealer the first time, (I saw the receipt) and the second one WAS at the Michelin Dealer where the first one was bought at.
    No, all of the tires blown were the ones from the factory and I have replaced with the same tires. Now, I have two tires with 11k, on tire with 8K, and one new one.
    I have the OEM tires on the front for now, and will be swaping with the replacement tires which are now on the back. I have the newer ones on the back because the Michelin dealer tech. said to put new ones on back to break them in properly. Something about setting up the groove tracking correctly at a non drive wheel.

    Have you tried a Local Hub Cap shop for your center insert?? Ebay???

    As always Bob, thanks for your help. Hope to have a service Manual by the end of the year.
    Steve
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