2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

carguy000

My grandparents have a 2001 Chevrolet Impala with 13,567 miles on it. I was driving it tonight and it shut off as we were returning home from supper. I was going up a hill and the red charging light appeared in the "Information Center." I then realized that the car had cut off when I tried to accelerate up the hill. I tried to put it in neutral and crank it that way, but it still didn't crank. I pulled off the road and continued to try and crank it, but had no luck. Finally, I tried one more time before we were going to try the OnStar people and see what they could do for us, and to my surprise, it cranked. What do you guys think happened, and is this a problem with the Impalas? Thanks for your help. They are on the road quite a bit and I just want to make sure that everything is okay with their car. Thanks again.

drew_

hoowa

How steep was the hill and were you low on gas?

mediumfry

Someone posted about the A/C working sporadically in their Impala. I have that problem too. Generally, the system cools the car down, but in the first 20 minutes or so, the air temp and humidity will spike for a half minute or so several times, each time returning to normal after the 'excursion'.

I have my local service center working on it. No TSB's. They're taking a systematic approach to solving it, and I'll post the results.

This is a great A/C system. Today's outside temp was only 76 degrees, hardly challenging for an A/C system, but very high humidity (dew point in the 70's). I have a thermocouple on my multi-meter and I played with it a little. Today's normal outlet temp from the A/C was a whopping 42F. BURRRRR. Excursions due to the 'problem' raised the outlet temp to 57F momentarily then back to the mid-lower 40's.

I don't think this problem is a disaster, and I believe it's in the compressor control electronics, not a mechanical/freon problem. I think something in the computer system erroneously tells the compressor to shut off for a half minute or so every now & then. That'll take some high tech diagnostics but I'll bet we can nail it down. Again I'll keep posting about it till it's fixed.

carguy000

My grandfather had just filled up the day before, so he still probably had 16 gallons left. I believe he's going to try and take it in tomorrow and see what they can find out. Someone had posted in the Impala service issues board that this was not an infrequent problem. I have yet to hear back a response back on that board though.

morphius909

Hey Mediumfry,

I was the one that posted the A/C complaint. After filling up the tank with MORE FREON(as stated in the TSB my dealer found) then ALLOWED, they system has been a bit better, but today I also noticed a "EXCURSION". Temp was too warm.

I will take it back, as summer is about to hit full force.

I will keep you posted.

Paul

frankf3

The problems with the AC may not be (refrigeration) system related. Just about everything now a days is computer controlled. I know from my previous GM car that the computer controlled the operation of the AC. If too much freon is added to the system, a detremental effect is that the output pressure and temperature of the compressor cylinder head is greatly increased. The increase in head pressure also places more heat and pressure in the condensor, makes the compressor work harder, and even can shorten the life of the compressor and belts. As a matter of fact since the cooling effect in the cooling coil or evaporator is due to rapid expansion of the freon due to an orifice or metering valve, as the system pressures rise due to an increased freon fill or overfill, the pressure gradient across the metering device drops and will raise the temperature of the cooling coil and not lower it. I know this didn't supply any solutions, but hopefully will prevent other problems.
Mediumfry 42 is an excellent outlet air temp, just remember that the air can only release so much heat ( or absorb so much cold ) on its way through the evaporator. If the fan is on high, the air velocity and volume through the coil doesn't allow enough time for the air to stay in contact with the cooling coil to get cooled off and come out as cool air. Sort of the same thing as if you put a pot of water on a hot burner on a stove for 1 minute ot 10 minutes, the heat will not transfer to boil the water in 1 minute.

morphius909

Oh just wonderful, now my a/c system might prematurely wear out? BLAH!

I don't even know what to tell the dealer anymore!

Paul

frankf3

I have been experimenting in trying to delete that nasty nametag - there is just no getting it out. I've even tried to recreate it with the same name with the hope of overwriting it so I can delete it. The system acts as if it's another name. Say I have 2 nametags stored, 1 being John Doe and the other Bill Smith. Now at this point with ONLY these 2 nametags in the system, if I try to tell the system to delete nametag Sally Smith, I get the same system responses for deleting the non-existent that I get while trying to delete the one that gives me a problem which does get listed when I do a directory.
to Carguy000 - I had the exact same problem with my '95 Old Aurora. I had that thing in the dealer at least 4 times and all they could say was they couldn't duplicate the error and to come back when the error is a solid error. I took a gamble and replaced the ignition switch myself. The problem never came back.

jps045

I have been reading most of the posts here and I was suprised to read that most 2001 Impala owners had there oil changed at 1000 miles..I am missing something, I usually change the oil & filter every 3000..Please let me know if I have the first one at 1000 miles,,thanks

fathertyricius

Wow Frank ... On Star is being stubborn. I wouldnt let it get to me. I feel the next step is to call the on star professionals (lol) and to request a number change. I feel that with the number change On Star has to download the software to your car via satellite which might just do away with all the name tags in your directory. If On Star tells you that this procedure wouldnt work, then still go ahead with the number change. I feel that doing this will trick the system completely and finally eliminate that ridiculous name tag once and for all. Im so curious about what On Star would say regarding this, that Im going to call them and ask if all the name tags are automatically removed if a number change is done. I will let you know. I dont give up, until the issue is resolved... lol.

mediumfry

Thanks for the replies. As I noted previously, I don't think the problem is due to the coolant loop, but likely an electronic one. EXCEPT if there is an over-charge of 134-a (commonly called FREON). If there is an over-charge, the compressor outlet pressure could be teetering on the high cut-out pressure, and the system could be shutting it off (seemingly sporadically) due to the high pressure. This brings up two points.

1. The high pressure cut-out will shut off the compressor before it has a chance to ruin itself or blow a fitting. Thus life should not theoretically be reduced by this problem. No use in working the system harder than it has to, though. Who wants to buy extra gas?

2. The system has not been touched since receiving it from the factory. My local trusted service technician said he needs to check the pressures to make sure they're right, and that an over-charge could cause this problem. HOWEVER, he has NEVER seen an over-charge from the factory. He said that local shops and other technicians are the cause of most, if not all, overcharges of A/C systems. Un-knowing techs and home mechanics like to over-charge systems so they can leak longer before getting too low. This causes high pressure problems.

That brings us back to the electronic/control sytem. We'll see what shakes out.

Meanwhile, I can handle the few 'excursions' as long as the thing keeps me cool. It's WAY TOO COLD for my wife...

Just for fun, to expand upon the hot water/burner analogy, and to be a geek (plus, I haven't gone off on a technical 'excursion' for a while):

Q=UA(T2-T1) where Q is total heat removed from the air, U is overall heat transfer coefficient for the evaporator, A is surface area of the evaporator, T2 is the temperature of the air in the evaporator and T1 is the 134a temperature in the evaporator. Actually it's log mean temperature difference... Anyway, U is a function of the mass flow rate of air and 134a, physical properties of the air and 134a, the aluminum wall of the evaporator, etc. U can be estimated using a bunch of other formulae, or measured. Incidentally, as you turn up the fan, U increases and so does the temperature difference T2-T1 and therefore also the overall heat removed from the air, Q. However, the outlet air temp may actually rise a little. More semi-cool air may actually cool the car better than a little really cool air.

Physics is my phriend.

dogsrule

from the engine reserving power by cutting off the AC clutch when starting off from a stop.

I know it sound far off but I know car manufacturers used this tactic in the past, especially Ford, to get more power at takeoff and would let the AC clutch startup again once you're up to speed. This obviously lets the coil warm up a bit....

See if there's any relationship at takeoff from an intersection. I wonder..

alanwagen

What a pain to change the engine air filter.
You have to take the rubber intake hose off to get the cover off. There must be a better way.

fathertyricius

Hello Frank, I called On Star to get some feed back from them regarding the name tag delete issue. They seem to agree with me that if you do a number change, all the existing name tags you have now including the "pain in the rear name tag" will be deleted. They are going to call me back on Tuesday morning to confirm my suggestion and to see if my suggestion is correct, but they tend to agree with me. On Star mentioned that they never had this problem addressed to them before, so the tech was going to look into it and they will call me to let me know what they find. I will let you know what they say when they call me. If it isnt a problem, I would change the phone number.

impalanator

Medium fry - Do you notice this problem when say, just after punching the accelerator to get on the interstate or other instance where you just floored it? I don't know if its true with the Impala but its normal cars with smaller engines. It is computer controlled in that the computer kicks off the A/I whenever it detects a sudden demand for power (e.g. giving it the extra gas required to merge, etc..). Some of the older cars with small engines were so lacking in power that this was one way to make it feel more powerful.

I'm not sure if this A/C system is exactly like others as I've not had a chance to study it but there was a big problem with Fords in that the "orifice tube" will get clogged. There is a small screen/filter in this tube and it traps contaminants in the system (e.g. tiny pieces of o-ring, dirt, etc..). It doesn't take much as the filter itself is pretty small. A side effect of this is that it usually raises pressure and causes a leak at its own fitting. If the system was not properly evacuated/flushed at the factory prior to filling it could have some contaminants in it. And as a last note, the factory is notorious for under filling refrigerant. My first new car (Olds Cutlass Calais) arrived without any at all.

2k_impala_ls

I posted this info a long time ago but here it is again. A friend of mine is a GM mechanic and they are told (at GM tech school) that the first oil change should be between 1500 to 2000 miles. The reason is that the original oil has a special additive to help the engine break-in and it contains a floresant die to help find a leak if you get one. If you have it done at a shop, make sure they put 4.5 qts not 5 qts in. it is very common to have these engines overfilled. Why not just make the oil pan hold 5 Qts. GM?

mediumfry

I've tried everything from granny-style acceleration all the way to about 3/4 throttle. It sometimes fails at granny-style and sometimes doesn't when I get on it. Sometimes I get 'excursions' at even speed and throttle on level stretches. I thought of that cut-out to preserve power but there seems to be no correlation. I tried flipping from recirc to fresh air and back. That didn't cause hardly any difference. I tried moving the temp slider to heat and back (simulating a blend door malfunction) and this made the air warmer but not any more humid. When 'excursions' happen, the humidity rises seemingly more than the temperature which points at a compressor cut-out.

The low charge thing is a possibility. A low charge can actually make the system run too cold and freeze up the evaporator. My surprisingly low outlet air temp could be a clue. I haven't taken a long enough trip to freeze up the evaporator.

My appointment on Tuesday will tell a lot. If the charge is normal and steady state operating pressures are normal, then we'll have to look at the electronics. If the charge is normal and high side operation is too high, we'll be smart to look at the 'receiver/dryer' which I believe is the filter you're talking about. If the charge is not normal we'll have to make it normal and find out why it wasn't.

I've considered getting a manifold gauge set for A/C systems, and, after my warranty is over I probably will get one. If I had one I could tell you what the pressures are. Problem is, to do the job right at home you also need a good size supply of 134a and a vacuum pump to evacuate the system whenever it's broken into. Vac Pumps are several hundred dollars. 'Course so is A/C service so maybe it'll justify itself over time...

chevyrog1

Hi
today I went out to do some maintenance on my 2000 Impala and was unable to release the hood latch
it pulls back as normal but wont "pop" if you know what I mean. Has anyone experienced this and if so can someone advise me how to manually release it as easily as possible?
thanks in advance

cyyz

try to lift the hood even though it hasn't popped. If that doesn't work, pull on the latch, then have someone pull up on the hood while you are still pulling on the latch and that should release it. You can also try to push down on the hood first (as if to lock it)and then try the latch again as well as a combination of the above. hope this makes sense and good luck. Also, you can try to push down on the hood and while pushing on the hood, pull the latch, then while still holding the latch, pull up on the hood.

mediumfry

Usually, while one person pulls on the lever in the car, I give the middle of the front of the hood a firm bop with my fist to shake it loose. 'Course I've always had beaters that I didn't really care about. I'm not sure I'd do this with my Impala.

You've got a simple problem, but the dealer should fix it under warranty.

fathertyricius

I had this very problem the first day when bringing my new 2001 LS home from the dealer. I tried pulling on the hood release latch and nothing. I had my son push down dead center front on top of where the hood assembly would be located, and as he was putting body weight pushing down, I pulled on the hood release latch again and wa la ... it gave and we got it open. It never happened again.

2k_impala_ls

The best oil filter on the market for our Impalas is the new ac delco Ultragard Gold. It is ONLY AVAILABLE at your GM dealer or any Pepboys for $8.99. Get all the info about it on GM's site.

http://www.acdelco.com/news/3120_set.htm

frankf3

Thanks for the support on the Onstar. I think I will give them a call tomorrow and see what ANOTHER customer rep will tell me. I think I'll also try to get hold of the person who helped me get that personal calling going during that 3 month stretch. I haven't given up yet, only discouraged.

impalanator

Mediumfry - hope they get it sorted out for you. The "orifice tube" I was talking about is separate from the filter/dryer. I believe it is located just after it in the loop.

yurakm

The manufacturers are claiming the AC Delco Ultragard Gold filter is the best in single-pass filtration tests, while the Purolator Pure-One is the best in multi-pass filtration. Pure-One is also available at Pep Boys, and costs about $6.

Personally, I believe the both filters, as well as the other premium filters, like Mobil-1, are much better than stock ones. The extra quality is especially important with extended oil changes, e.g. with synthetic oil and/or according to the trip computer, as opposed to 3000 miles / 3 months.

On the other hand, it probably does not matter what premium filter to use, if you do not intend to set record in extended service, like changing oil at 25k-35k miles :-). Any of them will be fine with 5,000-6,000 miles / 6 months oil change routine.

No scientific base. Just the common-sense law of diminishing returns.

morphius909

I have not noticed a relationship between acceleration and A/C performance. Sometimes it iscold when in park, sometimes not. Sometimes it is cold while driving, sometimes not. Sometimes it is cold while accelerating, sometimes not! Lol

I will be taking it in soon to be looked at again.
But by the sounds of it, I am not alone in this situation.

Paul

teo

http://www.acdelco.com/parts/tech/1525h.htm

The Impala currently uses the Harrison V5 compressor which is categorized as a "Variable displacement Compressor".

Click on the above link for interesting information regarding the functionality and parts of the A/C compressor used in current GM products.

teo

http://www.delphiauto.com/pdf/thermalpdfs/v5.pdf

The V5 compressor is a 'clutch less' system. Very interesting technical info here.

Hope this gives some clue as to the causes of the A/C intermittent cooling issues. Are there any 2001 Impala owners having this problem??.

I had these symptoms on my 2000 Impala LS. It was highly noticeable on very hot and muggy days. The lower the exterior temperature the less the problem would manifest itself. Any clues?

morphius909

As you probably know, I have the 2000 LS model.

Since we did not have any problems last summer with it, leads me to believe that SOMETHING is wrong in the system.

Paul

this_is_nascar

For those of you with A/C problems, try it on the re-circulate setting (button on the right) and see if it's still not right. I'm wondering if a clogged passenger compartment air-filter could be causing the downgraded cooling in the default fresh-air mode.

chevyrog1

this is how i fixed the jammed latch
one person lightly bangs on the hood over the latch while the other puts pressure on the hood release handle and it will pop. The problem was caused by a lack of factory lube on the assembly so make sure to lube it up with white grease before closing it again.

jpstax

Has anyone heard of the "Tornado" device? I saw an ad on TV this past Saturday, and it mentioned this web-site:

http://www.tornadoair.com

They claim it boosts horsepower and gives better gas mileage. I wonder if it really works.

bdime

I let the college boy borrow the Impala- his car is in the shop. Hope he lives through this! I get really possessive of new cars but I thought he'd be safer in the Impala then the Dodge Truck with the V10 in it. Counting the minutes till it's home again.
No complaints about my AC. Found some yucky grease blob
on the drivers side wheel well today- will watch to see
if it's road debree or something scarier-from my car!

nosirrahg

Wanted to give a brief summary of our trip from Little Rock to Orlando and back last week in our base 2000 Impala w/3.8ltr engine.

Total Miles: 2,093
Average Speed: 62.2 mph
Average MPG: 29.16
Current odometer: 23,000 miles

The vast majority of this was Interstate driving with the AC running, and with the cruise set somewhere around 70-75 mph. Most driving was done between the hours of @ 10am-8pm.

Not bad for a full-sized car with two adults, two kids, and luggage to cover us on a 9-day trip.

mediumfry

The problem is much the same on 'fresh' air and 'recirc' that's not it. Teo's information is interesting, as I only notice the compressor 'kicking in' the first time I turn on the air, but not at any time thereafter. The variable, clutch-less system is obviously working in that respect.

I've found in the last few days that my A/C typically has 'excursions' shortly after coming back up to speed from a stop or near stop. At this point the engine has idled for a bit while coasting down and braking, and then is used again. Acceleration isn't hard at all, not nearly enough to cause the A/C to kick out to preserve power.

Appointment is tomorrow. We'll see.

night_owl1

This was being advertised heavily in Hawaii a number of years ago. I knew a couple of people who installed it and said they saw no performance increase.

Do they offer a satisfaction guarantee?

cookie01

Man, it's quiet in here the last few days.

00impala

Everyone is content! ha ha...Whats new Cookie? Don

bdime

my nails. The Impala returned unscathed. Should get him to wash it for me-
it's pretty dirty- at least a week since I did it. No comments from him about
the ride though- I guess it takes a bit of maturity to appreciate.

tinner73

I LIVE IN CROSSVILLE TENNESSEE AND AM INTERESTED IN BUYING A NEW FULLY LOADED CHEVROLET IMPALA LS. CAN ANYONE DIRECT ME TO THE BEST PRICE ON ONE IN THIS AREA OR WITHIN 50 MILES? THANK YOU

teo

Pat (Host): Any news on setting us up for weekly chat events?

Others:: I don't pick up much enthusiasm regarding the weekly chat event...any other takers???

wyoimp

Need to slap your kid! My kids fight the wife and I to drive our LS. in fact the wife has only driven it once on the Interstate. Then she zoomed max speed. ;-)

b4z

DIC is off by almost 2 miles per gallon. Temp gauge runs 3-4 degrees too high. What are your experiences?

teo

Reset or recalibrate the DIC as per instructions found in the Owner's Manual. Compass can be recalibrated too if needed.

teo

I have discovered through the Chevy International Websites link that the Impala is also imported into Mexico, Venezuela and Chile. One thing that makes me so mad is that the Impala is sold along side the excellent Opel Astra (Chevy Astra) in those markets!

cookie01

Not much new... Work is tough during the summer, TONS of stuff happening and I'm required to be on top of it all.

Got a neat fishing trip coming up in late July. I really can't wait. Haven't had more than 3 days off in about a year. Then in Sept celebrate the 10th year of married bliss with a HUGE party (micro beer and burgers provided)

You're all invited ya know! Come on down. What's a little road trip to Oregon?

teo

The Impala is imported into Israel. It would be interesting to receive feedback from Impala owners residing in any of the aforementioned countries. I am specially interested in experiences in the harsh driving environments found in Venezuela and Israel.

By the way, a new '01 Chevy Impala LS in Venezuela (the only model sold in that market) fully loaded is priced at US$31,451.00 which translates into B$22,627,273.00 Venezuelan Bolivares based on today's exchange rates. The retail price does not include their hefty 14.5% added sales tax.

Last time I checked a new Impala LS purchased in Mexico City is almost US$35,000.00.

We should consider ourselves lucky that we can buy a new Impala for less than US$24K.

sim3

I'll have to agree 100% on the car prices and that we should consider ourselves lucky to pay so little.. I'm from Finland - they probably have the worst car taxes in the world (imports - add about 100% tax). Some examples; an Olds Alero (Chevy Alero in Finland) is about $38.000, a Camaro Z28 would be over $50k and a Corvette over $100k. On the other hand, Saabs and Volvos (being manufactured in the neighbouring Sweden) are not _that_ much more than over here..

I'm planning on taking the Impala with me to Finland when I (probably) go back in about two years.. if nobody beats me to it, I'll have the only new Impala in the country :-)

tpken

Hope they have an optional rock deflector!

Ken