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Comments
As soon as I receive the paperwork from Toyota regarding the promised extended warranty, I'll post that information here.
We too bought one of the cursed June/July Siennas. It's an LE if anyone's counting. Long story short, had it a day, got the lucky Check light, dealer said OK to drive, did that. Put a thousand miles on it before the part came in. Dealer did a great job of turning it around in a day and gave us a Camry as a loaner free of charge, but... (here's where I get long winded, sorry.)
Came back to us with a slight pull to the right which I assume is an alignment problem but could be a steering wheel mis-centering and also a loud clunk when you cut the wheel sharply to parallel park. It's going back in today after having it a week with one 300 mile weekend trip.
I have the Toyota Shop Manual Set ($200.00, but every owner should buy one, for every car they own; they pay themselves back in one use) and I looked at the Replace T/C job description and it is major. Disconnect every engine and transmission attachment, tilt it all down to unbolt the trans and pull off the T/C, reverse. You have to be a journey level pro to do this job and not miss a retorque setting or clamp, etc. The chances for post op problems are high because everything has to go back just so or else you are prone to loosening parts and fasteners. I'm a pretty fair shade-tree mechanic with a couple of Toyota clutch, starter, water and fuel pump jobs under my belt but I tried like heck to never drop an engine out. It's not routine especially for a new car.
We politely asked our dealer to give us some peace of mind and the 10 year, 100K extended powertrain warranty and, while they have been pleasant back, they are dragging their feet with intensity. It's been three weeks of "We're trying to get Toyota to go halves with us. Please stand by."
I'd love to hear of a Cursed T/C Sienna owner who got the full extended warranty. I don't believe the 6 year, 75K warranty offered the person in a previous post is any great deal. Not given the fact that 60K is the standard and that I've owned two Toyotas with nearly 200K miles apiece that never had the engine dropped out and put back. Plus, you still have to bring the car in for every repair which is huge for a one-car family like us.
Anyway, we feel like we won the wrong lottery. It was our first new car, we saved like crazy and bought what we thought was the best because we wanted some security. A new("refurbished" more accurately) car with the engine yanked and replaced does not inspire confidence (no offense to crack mechanics, which I'm sure there are a few). We are recording info for a Lemon Law case but wish to heck to not have to pursue one. It's not really the dealers' fault but they (along with Toyota) are incurring a lot of bad karma on this one. As a customer service professional,I know this is going to hurt them, both. It's a matter of how much is all. They could have stepped up early and made some friends but now I just feel bitter and angry. It's becoming an expensive lesson for everyone involved and is just going to get worse I fear. I'll let everyone know how it's going soon.
I've driven lots of cars over the years w/ anti-lock brakes, but none of them ever did this. Can anyone tell me what is causing this to happen - and what to tell the dealer about fixing it ??
Also - any thoughts or suggestions about the sliding door on the driver's side sticking ?
It's very hard to pull open from the outside.
Thanks in advance.
- does it happen only when you hit a bump or pothole?
- does it happen on smooth roads?
- was it wet when it happened?
- did you feel any vibrations on the pedal?
- everytime it happens, did you hear that humming sound?
Hopefully these questions can help you answer your problem. ABS systems are very sensitive and it could be ABS going into action. When I brake on wet leaves on the road during the Fall season, the ABS kicks in right away. First time it happened to me, I thought my brakes were shot or the van was gonna fall apart!
hope this helps.
The knob replacements has been covered under warranty until now (28K in odometer) but they suggested "someone is using too much force with the knob", and I KNOW that is NOT the case.
Thanks for your responses
The dealer still has no idea what is wrong with our transmission. Getting impatient.
Carole
Typically, all Japanese cars are like that. When you start the engine, the idle will automatically set to over 1500 rpm. Then it slowly goes down when the engine gets warmer.
Some old cars or American cars do not have that kind of feature, so you have to be in the car and press the gas to warm the engine faster. This is not convenience. To me, this feature is a plus.
First, go to:
<<A HREF="http://www.toyota.com/">http://www.toyota.com/>
Next, click onto "Owners @ Toyota" at top of page.
Now, you will have to register as an official Toyota vehicle owner...needing VIN # and other info.
Finally, after you have been accepted as an official Toyota owner....You can now find (after alot of looking) a place where you can send Toyota an e-mail. They do not list an e-mail address....It is a form that comes up and you fill in same.
I know...I know...Lots of screwing around but you asked how to do it....Good Luck!
Ed
The steering is not firm on this van. In addition, there is a vibration that can be felt above 50 mph, even on smooth roads. I don't understand this. Originally, we had one episode of severe shaking above 60 mph and were told that the brake drums were "out-of-round." They were replaced, but the highway vibrations continue albeit not severe as with that episode.
I noted a lot of heat coming from the driver's side front tire well a few times. The tire was hot to touch compared the the others. I will continue to watch this.
I have started to note the metallic "clunk" sound when backing up in my driveway. It happens each time now.
Anyone else still having the alignment problem?
cblake@erols.com
If Toyota did know, you certainly would have a case. You should be sure to file a report with the Center for Auto Safety and the Federal Trade Commission, too. What you don't know CAN hurt you in the end re: warranty rights on your new van. You should have *no trouble* getting T/C information on the current Sienna discussion groups here.
I saw a few posts about the problem on some 2001 vans. What is the update there? I also saw several posts about total transmission replacement AFTER the torque converter was replaced because problems continued. Any updates there?
cblake@erols.com
The repair apparently is *total engine replacement* to the tune of over $4,000! Let's just say, this is NOT a problem that I want to encounter down the road. I am following the posts as a form of "insurance" because I will not play to "owner-blame game" that many automakers insist upon.
cblake@erols.com
1) Brake problems from new. I took it to many dealers who either denied that there was a problem or worked on the brakes but did not fix the problem. It came to a point where my wife refused to drive it. Eventually fixed by Atlanta Toyota.
2) Maddening multiple rattles in dashboard. Eventually fixed by Atlanta Toyota.
3) A/C not cold. Also fixed by Atlanta Toyota.
4) Rattles in right sliding door - never fixed.
5) Transmission linkage cable disconnected itself from column lever under dash, so tranny was stuck in reverse. We were stranded do I fixed this myself.
6) Sliding doors stick - I use silicone spray every few weeks around the seals and runners.
7) Right sliding door locking mechanism jammed and door would not open. Fixed this myself.
8) Car pulls to the right - replaced tires and did realignment - problem not fixed.
8) Battery died at 18 months - OK maybe not Toyota's fault.
I also have a '98 Camry V6, 21,000 miles.
I've had to replace both front struts and had the rear suspension reassembled because it was assembled incorrectly! All work done by Atlanta Toyota who seem to do a good job where other dealers have failed. They are the best dealer I have found.
All in all an extremely poor showing by Toyota. So much for the Toyota reputation for quality. Our previous Nissan Quest and Maxima never had this many problems. I have decided NOT to get the Avalon when my Camry lease is up. I'll get the Infiniti I30 for myself and the QX4 for my wife.
2000 Sienna's. Go to www.toyotarepair.com for
details. You should be able to avoid this problem.
Never heard of any sludge problems. Sludge is caused by old dirty oil. Keep the oil changed and
you won't have a problem. The V6 in the Sienna is
the same as the Camry. The Camry has a longer
history with this engine, so you can research if the Camry has any engine problems with the V6. I
think you'll find that with proper maintenance
the Toyota V6 is quite reliable.
Also, if you scan all the posts in this topic, you will see the engine sludge has been described (ad nauseum) by ONE disgruntled owner of a '99. In fact, this ONE owner has tried SEVERAL times in this topic to rally support from other owners about the sludge problems and has received NONE that I can recall.
BTW, I am not disgruntled (at least YET). I am *concerned*, however. I think I have a right to be given the unanswered questions I have about my own van. My experience? Much better to get information BEFORE the fact than after!! The owners who have had the sludge problem are in a bind; if I have the problem, I will be armed (as will the others who are aware of the potential issue).
And as for maintenance, this does not equal freedom from inherent manufacturing defects. You must never assume that proper maintenance = no premature problems.
cblake@erols.com
Not everyone believes however, that the Fram filters are all they are cracked up to be. You may want to read over the web site at following URL to see what one differing opinion is rel. your choice of filter.
<<A HREF="http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.
html">http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.
html>
(I have recently switched to Purolator, Duetsch, and/or AC...Your choice of oil (Mobile One, Synthetic? I assume) is what many say is the BEST. The Mobile One oil filter is supposedly a premium filter but of course one has to pay premium price. :-)
care of your engine is a good thing no matter what car you drive. Minivans can be quite abused with short trips. My wife wanted to drive hers to work, less than 4 blocks from our house. I finally convinced her how hard this is on an engine. It could be quite possible that under conditions like this, and probably changing the oil only around 7500 miles that sludging could occur. I don't really know since I'm not an expert mechanic, but if some people are complaining, I'm sure it has happened in some cases. That said it seem's that by changing your
oil every 3K you should avoid any problems all together. I have 10K on my Sienna, oil changed every 3K, and my oil has yet to turn black.
I had the inner tie rods replaced in my steering. I asked why the entire rack and pinion was not replaced but I was told that my van did not fall within the T.S.B. The van wanders in general from side to side, even with new tires. Tire rotation only causes the shift of the pull from one side to the other. You might expect this with uneven tire wear and a chronic alignment problem. My van is "within the manufacturer's specifications for this model" and the symptoms are "characteristic of the model."
Your episode has me concerned. I have not been led to believe there are any safety issues with my steering problem. I am thinking I would prefer the pull be back to the right (as it was originally) so that I can exit the road if the steering locks up. I would hate to think I was headed left into the fast lanes of traffic with no ability to counter!!
I know for a fact that my tires are wearing unevenly as I am constantly pulling the wheel back to the right now. This jerky motion is bound to affect the suspension eventually, too.
I like the van very much in terms of space, comfort, etc. What a shame that the quality has been compromised on this van....for what reason? Price?? You ought to be ashamed, Toyota! Please don't follow in Chrysler's footsteps....
cblake@erols.com
Of course, the 3,000 mile oil change is better. BUT...the automaker does *not require* this. Some owners who indeed HAVE done every 3,000 mile oil changes STILL had the sludge problem. Toyota REFUSED to see the records in some cases. What's up with that???
My husband has always kept to the 3,000 mile oil change routine. We have waited longer on the Toyota, however. Should I now EXPECT the sludge problem simply because we did not do sooner oil changes? I think not! And NO ONE at Toyota better tell me that I need a new engine on this van because of oil sludge!!
We read the owner's manual cover to cover and we have no reason to blame ourselves for *any* of the problems encountered in the van to date. The part about spilled drinks and the horribly sticking door latches just irks me......why is Toyota asking the owner to be the scapegoat for a DEFECTIVE door latch?????? And I guess the "out of round" brake drums was caused when I actually *used* the parking brake as prescribed???? And the unevenly worn tires are because I just don't know HOW TO STEER my van, right?
How long does this or any other automaker think that owners are going to tolerate being blamed for NORMALLY OPERATING their vehicles??? Am I driving a glass vehicle that is unusually fragile?? You would think so!!
You know, the *crash results* are not very meaningful to me EXCEPT in that when my steering does decide to fail, at least I will probably live through the crash. OR, when the rear brake drums decide to warp due to a brake shoe sticking, I can careen into a nearby tree and live to see the next day. OR, if my transmission fails and the car behind me barrels into my backside, I will be OK.
I have digressed, but you get my point.....
cblake@erols.com
Ford has apparently had problems with the head gaskets in the 3.8 liter engine and the transmissions, especially in the '95's, but have extended the warranty for at least that year to 100,000 miles for that problem. As it turned out, we also bought our youngest son a '95 Mustang with the same 3.8 liter engine in it and manual five speed tranny. The engine in our Windstar has given no problems, but his blew a head gasket, and Ford "stonewalled" the same failures in it and all other models for a while, then, under threat by a good many people via the internet, of a class action suit for the same problems with the 3.8L engine, reimbursed us for the repair and extended the '95 Mustang warranty to 100,000 miles, as well.
It seems that "stonewalling" widespread problems is the answer all manufacturers have, and perhaps have had for years, but the internet provides a single place disgruntled customers can compare notes, discover that is going on, share information and come together in a united effort that gets results. Now aren't you glad Al Gore invented the internet? Just kidding about that, folks! But it has been the most effective tool I have seen in a long time to get results from the big boys.
But back to the subject, Sam121. Your Windstar may well be a good vehicle for you. Ours has, and, in fact, since we like ours so much, the rest of the vehicle is still in such good shape, and Ford is still putting the 3.8 liter engine in them, we are considering hanging on to it through 100,000 miles, getting the engine and tranny rebuilt, and keeping on driving it.
Hope this makes you feel a little better about your purchase. And you may also notice you have a lot of company on the road in Windstars when you drive your Windstar.
I hope your experience with yours is as great as ours has been.
It may cost you a couple of hundred dollars (US), but getting a permanent fix should be worth the expense. Look in the yellow pages, or contact a reputable body shop for a recommendation in your area.
These shops have equipment that is used to make repairs when frames get bent. They can also diagnose and correct complicated alignment problems.
Hope this helps....
2. My van also pulls, but I believe it's based on the pitch of the road. It's definetly not a constant pull. We have Michelins and the van was re-aligned after the t/c replacement. If anyone has the solution let me know.
3. I paid $700 for an extended warranty, if anyone hears about getting one from Toyota for free because of the t/c repair let us all know how you managed to do so.
Speed
I'm on my fourth automoble using the synthetic products. The earlier ones all had great engines when they were sold, even my little, way under powered 1.2 liter Suzuki Samuri had over 100,000 miles on it and was running strong (well not really strong) when I sold it.
I guess you could push synthetics but why risk it is my take. As far as changing the oil yourself on the Sienna, I do it and it is a pain. The filter is not upsidedown but rather at 45 degree angle. There is oil spilage that occurs when you remove the filter so I pack clothes (paper towels) around and just under the filter to avoid the block/engine mounts getting a bath. I've seen too many 20/20 or 60 minutes that talk about the problems with some (not all) quick lube places.
Plus the convience of doing it myself.
If you have a good mechanic or someone you trust and it's conienent for you, let someone else do it.
But, the smaller engines of today putting out more horsepower and higher RPM's would probably benefit with a shorter period for oil changes. However, I have been driving my 10 year old Honda (with 150K miles) and change the oil (20W/50) at 6K. I don't see sludge and it doesn't burn oil. I do plan to change the oil in my new Sienna at 3k tho. It's not a Honda versus a Toyota thing - I think I'm just getting chicken!
have said that her credibility will suffer by
spreading misinformation.
Heres my original post minus the last line.
-------------------------------------------
I don't believe for a second that someone who
changed their oil every 3K, had a record of this,
and had an engine failure do to sludge build up was denied a warrantee claim by Toyota.
Unless you can provide proof, you should quit posting, your only passing along misinformation .
We have about 400 miles on the 2001 XLE now and as yet no issues or problems. It is a nicely put together vehicle. Of course, I find myself forever looking down for that check engine light. But, I have confidence (hopefully warranted) that we'll never see it. If we do, will post here.
I have recently noted that in arbitration, the "handwritten receipts" obtained from legitimate mechanics were not accepted! What's up with that??
Also, I have noted that oil analysis of one owner's vehicle oil revealed FUEL in it!! Perhaps it is a GOOD IDEA for owners to get samples of oil analyzed once mileage is say 25,000 or more? I have seen some posts that reveal less mileage than this, but most seem to occur between 25,000 and 36,000 miles, well within the warranty period.
Could a mechanic reading these posts tell me what symptoms you would note if fuel is contaminating the oil? What feature of this van's design might cause the fuel to leak into the oil chambers??
I own the van that could potentially have this problem. Why would I want to stop gathering information about it?? As long as I own the van, I will gather the information for my own protection.
By the way, when I gathered and reported information a few years ago on the Chrysler ABS defect, I was told that I was spreading misinformation, too. So why was there ultimately a recall based on that "misinformation?"
At this point, I honestly just want a safe and reliable vehicle. It bothers me to no end that I am forced to research in order to uncover KNOWN problems. It is not fair.....
cblake@erols.com