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Toyota RAV4 pre-2006



  • denokdenok Posts: 1
    I live in Belleville NJ. Need to buy a new car. Route 22 Toyota, a local dealer here gave me this response when I inquired about RAV4.

    "On the 4x4 Limited, with an MSRP of $24,700 You can buy the vehicle
    for $22,550. This vehicle does have the ABS brakes, Sunroof, Alloy
    Wheels, Keyless Entry, Wide Mud Guards, Roof Rack, "L" Package, and Daytime
    Running Lights."

     Is it a fair price?
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    Hey! I am also looking for the exact same car with equipments and quoted for $22990 plus $100 doc. fee and $100 reg. & title. But they also mentioned the factory alarm system in addition to the Keyless entry. I don't know if they are talking about the Anti-Theft system or the VIP R3200 system. Anyone knows the different? Anyway, your price is better than mine. Go for it.

    Beside this dealer, another dealer quoted $300 over invoice for any RAV4 in stock.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    Hi! I want to know if anyone has the all-weather rubber mats and cargo liner from Toyota. Are they as good as the WeatherTech rubber mats?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    shuts down the ignition if it does not detect the car's correct key, so that the car cannot be driven.

    If you get the Toyota 3200 alarm system, it adds a glass breakage sensor and an audible alarm if the car is broken into or a start-up is attempted without first disabling the alarm (in addition to ignition AND fuel pump kills).

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    Yes. It is the VIP R3200 Plus Security System (code = V5). It must be the type you just expalined. It looks like the horn will goes off and the headlights will flash. It is good thing they have it on the car. And all for $22990.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    We own a '96 Rav and the indicator light on the shifter between the two front seats (the one that indicates PARK, REVERSE etc.) has blown out. A Toyota mechanic (w/out seeing the car) estimates replacing the bulb at $80. Personally I'd let it go but the wife thinks differently. Is this something I can tackle myself? Is it really that involved?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    Note that anyone appears to hang in this forum...everyone must be buying CRVs!!!

    A local mechanic replaced the bulb in under 10 minutes.....hope that Toyota quote was in error!

    New question, Power window makes groaning noise when lowered....sounds ok going up. Any ideas? Anyone have a motor much $$$!!!!!
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    The window-lowering motor is about $150, plus labor.

    You're actually lucky. The window-raising motor is much more expensive.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    any idea on the labor...and what about the raising motor...would have thought it was all one motor.....any value in having both replaced all at once...cost?

  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    everyone is aware that was a sarcastic joke? There is only one motor, used for raising and lowering the window. The labor should be an hour or so, depending on design. I would be very surprised if the whole job went more than $250, and that is at California prices.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • debrahundebrahun Posts: 1
    Anyone know the towing capability of the RAV4?
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    debrahun: The '01 RAV is tow-rated at 1,500 lbs (in the US).

    nippononly: Correct, it was sarcastic. A payback for the "out buying CR-Vs" remark. Da noive.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    Don't do that to me...this sucker has already had a new short engine block installed, tranny worked on....all under warranty but lets just say we won't be getting another RAV.....
  • skipper53skipper53 Posts: 12
    On my 2002 RAV4, I placed the rear center seatbelt latch into the 'roof holder' ... and now it is stuck there. I can't figure out how to remove it. I have consulted the owner's manual, but the directions are vague and it just doesn't work as described. Anyone else had this problem and know a solution?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    Can anyone tell me on a 2001 Rav 4 4wd auto tranny, where is the transfer case drain and refill locations, and how often should the fluid be changed under 50% highway, 50% city miles?
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    has a transfer case? It is AWD, not 4WD.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ccco1ccco1 Posts: 9
    I bought a new RAV4(2003) about a month ago. It's a 4WD. The transfer case is connected to the auto transaxle/engine block. All you have to do is look for the drive shaft that goes to the rear differential. It's the case that the drive shaft is connected to. The drain/fill plugs are large, about 24MM. The fill plug on mine was very tight, I took it out to check the oil level. The owners manual said that it holds 1qt. of fluid: SAE GL-5 90W. The same for the rear diff. I haven't look up when it should be changed, but I am going to change mine once every year or two, depending on how many miles I drive. It's only 1qt. and cheap insurance.

    One thing you want to do if you change it yourself, is to loosen the fill plug before you take out the drain plug. If you can't get the fill plug loose after you take out the drain plug you're in for a very interesting time! It's also a good idea to check the level again after you have driven it a couple of miles.

    Hope that helps.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    is AWD folks, even though Toyota writes "4WD" on it. AWD cars also have a rear diff and a drive shaft - couldn't drive "all" the wheels without them.

    A transfer case is something 4WD trucks have that have a low range reduction gear separate from the main body of the transmission.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    Thanks for the info. How do you know the level is correct - just fill it until it is at the bottom of the fill hole or overflows? How tight should the fill and drain plugs be - same as an engine oil drain plug?
  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    Recently took my wife's 2003 RAV4 purchased ~ 3-months ago on it's first road trip to
    Arkansas to visit relatives. Had three (3) in the car plus luggage small cooler inside,
    nothing on the roof rack. Essentially the RAV4 is a base model spruced up at the dealers
    with add-ons and extra equipment. My wife originally wanted a white Sport model but the
    dealer had none at the time. She settled on a Spectra Mica blue (which is nice looking
    clean) with auto. and other options. Price was invoice+ $400. The dealer had added
    window-tint and other stuff which was negotiated to about .25 on the dollar, because they
    wanted to move the RAV4. We think we got a good deal for drive-out.

    The road trip was about 900 miles round-trip and it gave a pretty good chance to
    learn about the strengths/weaknesses of the RAV4. Here are some unscientific
    observations :
                       - The RAV4 can hold luggage for three including two women and
                          have a little space left-over, (1) pullman, (1) suitbag, (3)
                          medium duffel-size carry-ons, (1) small carry-on, wedding gifts, etc.
                       - The mileage was fantastic on the highway. High was 29 MPG on
                          one stretch. Low was 22 MPG. My Ford Escape V6 hovers at
                          18-22 constantly city/hwy., no change.
                       - Went through some massive rainstorms and wind (70 MPH gusts)
                          in Oklahoma. The RAV4 was stable and did not feel tipsy or
                          otherwise unsafe going through this. The ride was stable throughout
                          the trip and reasonably smooth as well.
                       - Though roomy throughout, the rear-seat was a bit uncomfortable.
                       - Driver and passenger front-seat comfort in adequate IMHO, but not
                          great. I found myself fatiguing a bit more in these seats.
                       - The seat fabric used in the base model and 'L' model seems to 'pick'
                          and 'pill' a bit more than usual. I may have to ask Toyota about this.
                          None of us in the car had or were wearing anything that would cause
                          the fabric to pick and or pill.
                       - Horsepower is adequate, especially once the engine is broken-in and
                          even feels peppy in some applications. However, IMHO, another
                          30 HP would do wonders. Toyota could wring an 30 ponies from a
                          replacement engine. Either a larger 4-cylinder or a small V-6. Maybe
                          when the new models come out in a couple of years....
                       - Overall a competent vehicle with a few areas for improvement.
  • ccco1ccco1 Posts: 9
    Just fill it up to the bottom of the fill hole. The Repair Manual has the Torgue settings listed as: 49 Nm or in American it is 36 ft-lbs. That's for both the fill and drain plugs.

    These torgue settings are the same for the rear differential plugs also.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    On my '01 RAV, the middle rear belt just wedges up into the top ceiling slot - there is no latch. So all I have to do is yank on the exposed portion of the belt (where it passes over the middle piece of plastic, between the in and the out slots) and the metal blade "un-wedges" itself.

    Hope this helps.

  • rav4buyerrav4buyer Posts: 1

    I have a 97 Rav4 with 86k miles. I am planning to drive it for another 10-12k miles before selling. Recommended mileage for changing timing belt is, I think, 90k miles. I was wondering if I can go upto 100k without changing it? I am debating if it is worth spending $500 on changing timing belt and driving for another year or sell it now. I read somewhere that with these new engines, even if timing belt breaks, it does not cause any serious damage. How accurate is that? Anyone who has driven their Toyota beyond 90k miles without changing timing belt, please comment. Thanks.
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  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    I've also read that Toyota designs its engines so that a timing belt failure does not damage the valves. It was an article by Car Talk's Click 'n' Clack the Tappet Brothers (I think), and posted in a Toyota service department. The article also said that Honda's engines are not so forgiving.
  • I believe you are correct. Like you, my friend Tom, who until 2 years ago worked in an auto parts store, always said "Toyota designs it's engines so that a timing belt failure does not damage the valves, but Honda's engine is not so forgiving". He bought a Toyota.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Seems like your friend Tom talks exactly like me.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    if you are planning to sell in a year or so, I wouldn't replace the belt if it were me. It is true the engine internals will not be damaged if the belt breaks, although you might be damaged if it quits at 70 mph on a busy interstate!

    Be aware that most buyers are not chumps in this internet age, so prospective buyers will know it is due and you didn't do it, and expect a discount for something they can reasonably insist should be done "right away".

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • rscooterrscooter Posts: 1
    lok888--I live in MA also. which dealership are you going to?
  • libertycatlibertycat Posts: 593
    but when you add in value, it drops to third after the Sante Fe.
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