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Hope this helps!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
How did I get here? In the summer of 99 I purchased a GMC C1500 Suburban SLT 2WD from an individual with 43K miles. His only problem had been a bad alternator, which was replaced while still under warranty. Carfax checked out good. I owned a number of GM vehicles in the past 20 years, at the time I had a Pontiac Firebird with 330K miles. The Sub was the biggest investment that I had made in a vehicle, but my reasoning was that a heavy duty vehicle like this should last a very long time, only putting 12-15K a year on it. It had plenty of room so I could spread the kids out to reduce the picking at each other (yeah right). Anyway 2 months latter on a trip back from Pennsylvania the transmission went bad. Bad transmission 46K miles, (GMs warranty stops at 36K) that hurt. For $2200 Mr. GoodWrench fixed me right up. The next month then the battery and the starter went bad. Then I got a nice 6 month period, so I replaced tires and brakes. I replaced another alternator. Then this past February the transmission goes bad again at 63K miles. Mr. GoodWrench had to fix the tranny for free because the warranty on the replacement, but the truck caught a bad fuel pump while in their shop, so I had to have it towed back to them for a $350 repair. I am a patient man but I needed to start looking. I was thinking trying to swap out maybe with a used Expedition or Durango. My in-laws are union people all the way so I have only owned domestic vehicles. I search the net for GM Transmission problems and found this site.
http://www.thecomplaintstation.com/g/gm_toc.htm
I was not alone, the transmission problems starting in 96 were very common, one person was on their 4th and another on their 5th tranny at 100K. A number of Fords were having the same problem, the poor Durangos had bad tranny and bad engines. Most start at 36,001 miles. Okay toss those out, I may have to go foreign, and need to try buying new, might have to go to a van. Net searches produce increasing problems with Hondas, the new Toyota minivans appear to have sludge buildup in the engines. The Montys have numerous problems. The Nissans Quest and Isuzu Troopers seemed the ones with the least real problems. My wife likes driving a truck and does not want a stinking minivan (I agree). After much research the Trooper was the vehicle of choice. I found few bad problems, the best warranty of anything (at this time, this is very important to me), and the cost is very reasonable. The negatives would be reduced seating capacity (let them fight), the gas mileage (hey this is an improvement over the Suburban).
Next task to find the right deal, Edmunds really helps you know what to expect with price and values. I set a drop dead figure that I would not go over. The first dealer had a good price for the Trooper but offered only $12500 for trade in on the Suburban. (for all those upset about the lost values on Troopers for trade in, its all SUVs) The salesman finally got to 14K but that was still $1500 over my cap. Granted this dealership was Honda/Isuzu, so their GMC market was limited, so the next day I went to a GMC/Isuzu dealership. I went straight to the numbers, I had no use for a test drive unless the numbers worked, they offered 15.5K for the Suburban and worked other numbers, I told them only number I wanted to see was the bottom line figure that I would leave with. He was $750 over my cap and would not lower the price of the Trooper, when I would not move on my figure, he added another $800 to the Suburban which put me under my self imposed cap. ($16K was kbb value of my Suburban) I said now I need the keys for the test drive.
That my story
Thanks for your patience
John ><)))>
PS Paisan, 115 MPH, Pulling a trailer @ 80MPH , you may be a little nuts, but it sounds like youre a good guy. Thanks for all your work with monitoring these forums and for your Isuzu SUV web page.
Welcome to the crew. Hopefully you will be able to make our weekly chats here on edmunds. Feel free to IM me if you are on AOL or have AOL IM installed (I'm Paisan12 there) Send me some pics for the Owner's Gallery on Isuzu-suvs.com
80 with the trailer and cruise control
115 was a momentary burst, I don't normally drive above 77-80 on the highway.
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
-mike
-mike
I'm not sure I understand. After logging in and opening a discussion, the system doesn't recognize the messages you have already read? Are you using the subscription function? Accessing from a bookmark on your browser?
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
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Hope this info is helpful!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
If you do suck water into the engine, the proper procedure is to take out the plugs disconnect the intake, and crank the engine. It won't start obviously because there is no plugs in the engine, but you should shoot most of the water out of the engine through the sparkplug openings and the intake. Then put your plugs back and you should be ok.
i wound up towing Sean back out to the main road (through some mud-holes on the way out too boot) and he had it towed home
So everyone wish him luck on this...
-mike
When you say disconnect the intake, how do you do that?
-mike
Last night I drained the oil, ran a quart through and then filled it back up. It was the color of pond water. While hitting about a 20ft across water hole, I hit a pot hole, the driver side went down a picked up a bunch of water over the top of my bumper...this drained right into the air intake behind the headlight, or thereabouts. Taking things a little slower could have prevented this, like putting a blanket over the hood, or towel in front of the air intake. It sounds like a bent rod, but not to bad, I cranked it last night to disperse the new oil, but definitely out of commission. I think it is time for a snorkel!
It could have been a lot worse, we didn't run it much, I had a lot of great help, and AAA towed me home for $100 plus $20 tip. I am calling my dealer today. I am bummed, but if you want to play you have to be ready to pay.
Wow, those Subaru's were pretty good over the trails too.
-mike
-mike
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
There are 2 scenario's, the cold water caused something hot to break, or cranking it with water in the system was too much stress on a component? I think the cold water probably was the culprit, but it has been picked up by the dealer and I will know more later this week.
Fortunately it is just a truck (well a pretty cool one), but it can be fixed, and easily. The only real issues are cost and warranty, those are the 2 areas I think I am in deep water with!
Sean, it was nice meeting you (I've already met paisan). You Trooper guys were doing some pretty impressive stuff. Everytime we had the chance, we all turned around to watch the Troopers plow through the mud. Hopefully, everything will work out as smooth as possible with your truck. Thank God paisan didn't drive his Subaru and was able to tow you out!
Dennis
Outback Sport
Did you clean the truck before they picked it up? I hope they don't hammer you on the warranty, afterall you were just "going farther"!
-mike
You are think of a push rod which is in valve train. You are right though overhead cam engines do not have push rods.
Both can become bent or broken when things go bad. I always feared hydro-lock in my Prelude with a cold air intake - the filter was less than a foot from the ground.
-mike
The position isn't great for water travel, but is high enough. A dip in the trail beneath the water caused the front end to duck and go under for just a second, I guess just long enough. I am not sure, but I think a lot of 4wd's use a similar air intake locations.
My vehicle is better than yours because....
Brag about your ride on Tuesday, May 8, 5-6pm PT/8-9pm ET in the new News & Views Weekly Chat
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
I told them sort of what happened. Basically that, I think I got some water in the engine? That I hit a hole in about 6" of water and it splashed up over the bumper. The truck stalled, which I thought was the ignition system? When I cranked it, it was thumping. I left it at that. Multiply the water by 2 and replace splashed with almost submerged...
They are pretty good, I doubt I am going to get much past them, and actually I am afraid to. If it is serious, I would rather have it fixed right, than having the least amount done under warranty. I still plan on having this truck for another 100k miles or so.
It was fun meet the subie guys, and treekiller, awesome celica AWD. I will be back, sooner than you think. Better prepared NEXT time!
-mike
The initial report is that it just may be the timing belt is out of whack...maybe from forcing it to crank over...and that since we didn't run it very long it might be OK. They will have to run compression tests to make sure there isn't any long term engine damage. I have my fingers and toes crossed...
-mike
No warranty coverage on this repair however, ugh!
-mike
Here is the upshot, They will get a short block and rebuild the engine for $5700, and it should be "as good as new" and the "warranty will still be valid". Statefarm will cover it as a "collision" (I told them what happened roughly, dirt road and water was deeper than I thought, etc.) so all I will hopefully owe is my $500 dollar deductible and towing, that is not part of my coverage...If Statefarm won't cover it, I have a place that I can get it a whole new engine for $4500 installed.
The dealer commented at how well the truck actually was running. They said other than a bent piston rod, it was running fine, so they suspect minimal damage. Unfortunately to pull it apart and fix the one piston would be just as expensive as buying the bottom half of the engine.
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
There was a dip under the water, maybe a spot where someone got stuck before? The front end dropped through that and water came up over the bumper and went right into the intake.