Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    This is a major problem requiring a new engine block. Other parts of the engine could be reused (i.e. from the heads up). Sounds unusual, but at least the warranty will cover it. Good luck getting your truck back on the road.

    BTW, when FORD engines blow heads etc after >3 yrs/30,000 they junk the vehicle and give you a buy-back (a fraction of what the vehicle was worth before blowing the engine). This basically keeps you buying their mediocre stuff.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Anybody do this themselves yet? Is it a snap? Did you buy a parts store filter? or buy Isuzu filter? Best left to dealer to change? Do they charge you an hour to change it if you did have it done at the dealer?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Anyone know what the manual says you have to do at 30K? I'm at work and no manual here. Thanks.

    -mike
  • jbrennan1jbrennan1 Member Posts: 6
    Just had mine done. 99 Trooper.

    -change front and rear axle fluid
    -change transfer case fluid
    -change transmission fluid
    -change power steering fluid
    -rotate tires
    -service cooling system
    -replace fuel filter
    -repack front wheel bearings

    Had it all done at German Auto Haus in Burnt Hills, NY for $325 before tax.

    PS-Also in the 30K is an oil change and air filter replacement but I didn't have it done because I recently had both done.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That is actually my dealer I use!

    Hmm I guess I need to get the same as you except for the tire rotation (as I just put on new tires) I wonder if German Auto-haus would put in Red-line or Amsoil Synthetics for fluids if i brought it to them?

    Thanks for the input. Are there any good off-road trails up there? I have a place over in Caroga Lake near Sacandaga and usually spend every weekend in the summer up there.

    -mike
  • jbrennan1jbrennan1 Member Posts: 6
    I'm sure they would put the synthetics in for you and only charge you the labor. As you know they are not the typical Isuzu dealer, they concentrate on high end used cars. Seems like Isuzu is an afterthought for them which actually works out well for service. When I called for the 30k the service manager had know idea what it would cost. He worked it up item by item and came up with a price.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I just had my tires balanced at Discount Tire (http://www.tires.com/) they have a new store in Raleigh with a very good Asst. Mgr. Matt Williams 919-834-0970. I had recently had my tires balanced at another place, was not happy with it went back for free re-balance at the same place, still not happy with it, so I went to Discount Tire. Now I am very sure the tires are balanced as well as they can be. Matt was very good at making sure it got done right, one mechanic was going to use the non-GSP9700 machine on some of the tires to save time, Matt corrected that, made him pull off the weigts and use the right machine.


    They have this new balancing machine GSP9700 (http://www.gsp9700.com/). It not only tells the mechanic where to put the weight. It also tells the mechanic where to rotate the tire on the rim do that imperfections iin the rim are cancelled out by imperfections in the tire. The tire balance results can be printed so you can get feedback on how they are doing. Check it out at the http://www.gsp9700.com/ web site. There is a locator function on the web site to find the nearest GSP9700 to you.

  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    On a related note, I FINALLY got my Pirellis balanced right. I took 'em in to Sears for the free rotate/balance and the guy said the left front was off by a couple of ounces! Why this wasn't caught before I don't know, but I guess the 4th try is the charm...

    What a simple pleasure to go down the highway without vibrating (the truck, I mean)!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    About a month ago my driver's door developed a rattle behind the middle of the arm rest. At first lowering and raising the window would solve the problem. Recently the noise became too annoying and I finally took off the door panel to try and fix the problem. As it turns out the 2 bolts that hold the track bar (or whatever the metal bracket is called that the window rollers track back and forth in) to the door had worked themselves loose. It wouldn't have taken too many more window cyclings for the bolts to fall off. That could have caused some real problems. I guess the moral to the story is if you door starts to rattle in a similar matter you better fix it sooner rather than later.
  • teacherjimteacherjim Member Posts: 52
    Today , here in Western Michigan we had our first snow storm. We got 4 inches of wet slushly snow. I was on the back roads driving about 55 or 60 havibg a good time in the snow, when my TOD went out and a flashing yellow "CHECK" light came on. When I got home I found out that the 9 wire plug that is under the passinger side door, and goes to the transfer case had pulled out and part of the plastic case(9 wire case) had broke. I took it to my friends shop and he pluged it back in and spliced in the 3 wires that were flapping around. It is working now but he said that I need a new harness with the 9 wire plug on the end. I have owned my Trooper for only 9 months and 13,000 miles, do you think the warrenty will fix this? I can't believe this wasn't defective, as 4 inches of snow should not have been able to rip it out. I'll soon find out what kind of dealer I have!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had a similar problem in heavy rain/slush/freezing rain when I first got my truck. Everytime it was freezing rain/slush/snow It would flip the Check TOD light. For me it was a replacement of the connector and I believe the speed sensors as well. I think the harness probably isn't secured properly. Post having it fixed though I've driven through 2+ feet of snow slush and mud w/o any problems and 15-20K miles so you should be fine once they fix it for you.

    -mike
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Curious, purchased the 97 Rodeo with 57,000 miles, now 70,000 and it needs new pads all around. Don't know if these are originals or been replaced before but what are the long time owner's seeing for brake pad life on the Rodeos? Any diff in pad life between OEM pads and aftermarket?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My '97 went 60k on the rear 70K on the fronts. Replaced with cheapest auto-parts store ones and those lasted about 30-40K each. I have a 2000 Trooper now, and will be replacing with OEM ones when the time comes.

    -mike
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    Well, it has not been long since our 00 Trooper was out of the shop with 2 cylider heads cracked. Now the brake light lights up intermittently. The dealer says that front brakes are completely bad and that it would cost us $240 to replace them. They say that maybe my husband "brakes too hard". I know he does not, and besides the truck is usually driven only 15mi/day or so. Also, the shudder that may husband complained about - they say it is because it needs tire rotation, although we had one done less that 7K miles ago... this truck only has 25K miles on it... Since we had it, it had 2 fuel line recalls, transmission leak, fuel leak, severely rusted rear rotors, cracked cylinder heads(all above fixed under warranty), squeaky seats, dash rattles (still present) and now this...
    Does anyone else have similar experiences or mine is a bad apple? I had a Chevy before that which I traded at 93K miles, and I did not have half as much problems over its 7-year life as I do with this Trooper...
    Do you think it is an indication that the truck will start to disintegrate from here on, or after all this fixes i can expect reasonably long and trouble-free service?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm, you are supposed to rotate your tires every 5K miles 6K at most. $240 is a bit excessive for brakes about $90> than what I'd expect from say a Midas. Fuel line recalls are recalls, all vehicles have recalls at one time or another. I'm quite suprised that you have had all these problems and perhaps you got a bad apple. Squeeky seats and dash rattles are very uncommon on these vehicles.

    Overall the Troopers are known to go 200+K miles w/o problems so you have probably seen all the problems that you will encounter.

    -mike

    PS: Your Chevy was an abnormal one, most GM owners I know have had tons and tons of problems.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    It sounds like rotors have to be replaced, not just pads. Maybe my bad on rotation, but this is the least of my worries at the moment. Does $240 sound reasonable for rotors and pads?
    My husband is so frustrated that he feels like getting rid of the truck, but of course if we do, we'll be "upside down", and he will not settle for a used Civic as replacement. I guess I have to stick with it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    is very reasonable if not cheap @ a dealer. I just find it odd that they are that gone so early. I have 32K on mine and I tow, do city driving etc. with it.

    -mike
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    It sounds like rotors have to be replaced, not just pads. Maybe my bad on rotation, but this is the least of my worries at the moment. Does $240 sound reasonable for rotors and pads?
    My husband is so frustrated that he feels like getting rid of the truck, but of course if we do, we'll be "upside down", and he will not settle for a used Civic as replacement. I guess I have to stick with it.
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    If you take care of your stuff it will take care of you!
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Brakes on an Isuzu at under 50k miles is unusual.

    I am surprised that the dealer didn't let you know 7k miles ago, when you had the tire rotation, that your brakes were approaching "completely bad". Maybe the prior owner, the one that drove more than 15mi./day, somehow abused your vehicle (for example driving around with their foot resting on the brake).

    I would try a honest brake shop (if you can find one) and see what their diagnosis is. If you really need the work, then I recommend that you use the genuine Isuzu parts regardless of who does the work.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    Thanks, guys. Well, the dealer resurfaced rotors, replaced pads and performed tire rotation - all together set me back $200. I don't know if this is a good price for such kind of work, but it's too late now. I am also surprized that we had no warning signs - usually pads begin to 'squeal' when they are about to be worn out. Even if vehicle was driven 'hard' before (for 8.9K miles), I think it's still a bit early for this to happen.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It was driven more than 8.9K miles before you got it. It's VERY strange to see wear on all 4 discs like that and pads. Like I said I drive my truck VERY HARD all the time and am no where near the end of my brake pads at 32K. Something doesn't seem right about your truck.

    -mike
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Had all four disc brake pads replaced, no rotors by an independent shop yesterday.

    Cost me for the pads $70/front,$50/rear plus $100 labor, total $220. Looks like I got overcharged a little.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    I only had front pads replaced and front rotors resurfaced, and tire rotation. Originally they quoted us $240 for just front pads/rotors resurfacing, but I have "preferred customer card", so after all it was $200 including rotation. I suppose I could have found cheaper place to do it if I had known what was going on, but it did not occur to me that it could be brakes - this early. I thought that it was a sensor of some sort malfunctioning, or maybe they did not connect something right after engine work.

    I am just hoping that this will be all my problems with this thing.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Hum...you noted "severely rusted rear rotors" as one of the problems you have had with the trooper. Maybe the rear brakes are not working correctly and the front are doing all the work? If the rear pads are not contacting the rear rotors and keeping the surface 'conditioned', would that be a possible reason for the rusted rears and fast wear on the fronts? Maybe someone with a little more experience in that area might have some comments on that. To me it sounds like something to consider, but then it may just be an incorrect speculation.

    Are your rear rotors doing better since they were apparently replaced under warranty? At what mileage was that done?
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    well, possibly. When I move the wheel right or left about a 1/2 an inch off center, there is a little bump, slip or twang, it is hard to describe but you can feel it through the wheel? It steers fine, but the bump or whatever is consistent. I checked the PS fluid, that is fine, and I inspected the underside, nothing either. I guess it is either a loose belt, or the bolts that hold the wheel on are loose? Most likely it is a loose belt? I have an appointment on Thursday for an oil change so I will find out then.
  • suv31suv31 Member Posts: 5
    Just relocated my 95 Troop S 3.2 from Texas to COLD Minnesota, and find that the engine does not run very hot at highway speeds (barely above Cold range)when the temp is below 20 degrees ambient. When I drive on local streets, the temp gauge will return to the middle of the range, giving fine heat.

    Locals advise that I need to put in a hotter thermostat (190 degrees?), so that the coolant will run warmer, thus giving the heater core more to work with.

    I checked the antifreeze for level and mixture, indicates that I am okay to -45 degrees. Will get it flushed and filled during an oil change this week.

    Can any of you comment on this? I'd like to do it myself, so advice on replacement of the thermostat would be most helpful.

    BTW--is there a method to search the board for this topic? I have read thru many pages of messages, but wish there was a faster way.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like your T-state is jammed open. My stock Trooper and my old stock Rodeo would run at the same temps no matter what the weather. Anything from 105degrees to -10degrees F. When it is running near "cold" do you have enough heat? Or is cold air coming out the vents? If hot air is coming out you could have a problem with the temp guage. But my guess is that it's stuck-open T-stat. I wouldn't replace it with a different temp T-stat than stock.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Whattyamean, cold? It hasn't even been below zero yet! Heck, the daily high temps only got below freezing last weekend, so you've been enduring this "cold" for only 4 days! ;-)

    Ah well, welcome to Minnesnowta. You will find there is nothing like subzero weather to expose every weakness of your vehicle...

    And I agree with Mike, first try replacing the thermostat with a factory spec one.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    As I recall, you had the intake manifold gasket replaced under warranty some time ago. What exactly were the symptoms? I'm in Oregon visiting family and I'm taking the Trooper in to a competent dealer at 2:00 today to check out why my gas mileage has dropped 5 mpg. and whats up with the pinging between 2500 and 3000 rpm. at any speed. The service guy mentioned that it could be the intake manifold leaking. Thanks in advance.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Well, my symptoms were different than your friends. They included wild surging at idle, from stall to 1,000 rpm every second or so, or high idle while in gear. Highway drivability was more or less normal, certainly not the drop in gas mileage you have seen. Check engine light was on for a week or so, then started flashing whereupon I took it in to the dealer.

    I think it is still possible that the IM gasket is to blame for your problems, because a leaking IM gasket amounts to a massive vacuum leak. And depending on where the gasket has failed, I can envision different sets of problems depending on which sensors are most affected.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I went to my old Isuzu dealer (no longer Isuzu franchise, but said they would look at my truck anyway) to check out 2 problems.

    The first was a transmission gear engagement problem. Turns out a wiring harness was blocking the shifter linkage, they just moved it.

    They also checked the steering problem I posted about a few days ago. They think it is a warn steering column coupling. It is causing a bump in the steering wheel when turning left and right on center. I have an appointment at a new Isuzu dealership (new to me) Monday. They better cover this under warranty, it is a factory part, and under the 3/36 basic warranty, but I hope I don't get the run around. On the flip side, my mechanic said this isn't the first time they had seen this in an "old" Trooper and it isn't a serious safety problem, yet. I have a '99 with 23,000 miles, hardly old! I hope it doesn't crop up again at 45,000 miles.
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Well got my 99 Trooper back from a good dealer in Oregon today.
    They checked out the computer for the error codes (none), then they checked for vacuum leakage at the Intake Manifold (none), drove it hooked up to the computer looking for ignition problems (none). So now it's documented for future coverage (after the warranty expires).

    I decided to do the 60K service at 57K while I have a good dealer at hand. I had them save the fuel filter to cut apart and see what it looked like inside, the service manager called to tell me I had "water in the fuel filter". I'm guessing the only way water could have got in there, was watered down gas from the station? I live at sea level, constant 50 to 70 degree air temperature, I don't get it....any experiences or thoughts?
  • suv31suv31 Member Posts: 5
    Hi Guys,
    Yeah, i'm freezin' my @ss off here in MN, and the weatherman says it will get worse (like, 10 degrees for a high??!?) this weekend.

    Where is the t-stat located, and how can I tell if it's stuck open? I called my old dealer in TX, and he advised sticking w an Isuzu original t-stat, no modification, so I will.

    Paisan, the temp of air flowing from vents is lukewarm, and the temp gauge lingers in the lower end of the operating range.

    SDC2, do you know of a good MN repair shop for Troopers? I'd like to try this myself, if anyone has done it before I'd love some advice.

    Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Try following the top hose back to the block? That should lead you to the t-stat. It shouldn't be too hard to find/replace.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    My 99 Troop is still under warranty, so if I need service I go to the dealer. So I don't really know any good Isuzu garages.

    A thermostat replacement is fairly easy as engine repairs go...'specially if you have access to a heated garage.

    I have a service manual but it is for the 3.5L which is very similar, but I can't guarantee it is the same setup. Mike is correct about the general location of the 'stat.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Looks like my intake manifold gasket is acting up again. Idle surges while in neutral, though not every time. Also hear a hissing sound when I pop the hood with the engine running, likely due to the vacuum leak. Check engine light hasn't come on yet, though.

    This is exactly one year from last time...seems the onset of cold weather triggers the problem.

    Oh well, it is the only thing that has gone wrong in 33,000 miles, so can't complain too much. Have an appointment at the dealer for Wednesday.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I took my truck to the next nearest dealership, since mine closed, today. They mechanic told me that this is normal play in the steering box. He said the gears in the steering box have worn, and when I turn left or right, it causes the bump and noise I hear. I concede it is very slight.

    Well, normal or not, this condition developed in the last few weeks and I want it remedied. Since I need the truck, we are down to one vehicle right now, I am going to drive it until it becomes more noticable, and then bring it back. If they still claim it is normal my next step will be to talk to the service manager, I guess? I am saving the "hissy" fit for my trump card. :-)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Worst Case bring it to flemington Isuzu. They are the best dealer in the NY/NJ/PA area as far as service goes.

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    This may be a long shot, but maybe after the engine tear down something was not tightened in the streeing assembly. I'm not sure how it works on the 4WD, but on a FORD Windstar FWD that we once had, the engine tranny needed to be torn out when brand new. After the tranny repair the steering assembly was loose making a cracking noise when turning. Some bolts were not tightened properly.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    That is not a bad idea. It only started recently though, it has been 6 months, but something very well could have come loose. I have been looking on the web for related input and have found that the steering box has a bolt to tighten the steering gears on the top of it. Everything I have read says to be very careful when adjusting this, too tight can cause the steering to bind.

    With the hood up, you can hear a knock when you turn the wheel lightly left and right on center, when you turn it hard, it is not noticeable yet. That makes me believe it is play in the steering box gears (the mechanic pointed this out, I didn't even know what a steering box was until all of this).

    It is very slight right now, with winter gloves on, I can hardly feel it, but still hear it. I am sort of waiting for it to get worse, but that scares me too, because more might get damaged.

    Both times I had it looked at, the mechanic found "nothing" the first time, and I had to go out to parking lot after to point it out. I feel I didn't get the right attention because at this point they already had another car on the lift and were ready to move on. They sort of yeah, yeahed me, told me it was normal and to come back if it gets worse. Really frustrating after waiting for an hour to have it fixed.

    Thanks for the input, I had not thought of the fact that they may have removed the steering rack while working on the engine, I am going to call the ex-dealer who did the work today.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I called the ex-dealer who repaired the engine. They did not have to remove the steering assembly. They also recommended that I bring my issue up with Isuzu Owner Relations, because they found a warranty repair would resolve my issue, if they were still servicing the truck, they would be happy to do a warranty repair. They felt this other dealer was probably shining me on, and that it is worthwhile to get the rep involved, at the minimum I can be sure that if it is "normal" that is "normal". They even offered to fix it for cost for me too.

    BTW these guys sell Subarus so if anyone is looking for a quality dealership in the Philly area, I would be glad to provide the name and info.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I keep hearing on the Isuzu forums here at Edmunds about people's local dealerships dropping their Isuzu franchises.

    I've already figured that Isuzu will not exist as a brand 2-5 years from now. The anecdotal accounts of disappearing Isuzu dealers seem to support that theory.

    Thoughts?
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Since I have been personally effected I have a few thoughts. According to the people at dealerships I have talked to, they say it is to boost the business at existing dealerships, this would only seem to make sense for service, not for new car sales.

    Honda is supposedly dropping the Passport next year, which will mean less production for Isuzu SUV's in the US, maybe the Ascender will take off. Keep in mind that Isuzu is one of, if not the, world's largest truck manufacturer (SUV's are a sideline).

    Without a big surge in the US sales, they may pull SUV's from here, but I doubt they will stop producing the Holden Jackaroo, Big Horn, and SUV's around the globe.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    Well, after we had front brakes done, we drove our Trooper to visit our friends for the holidays (360mi one way). Few days into our stay my husband started the truck to go to local grocery store, and was greeted by flashing "check engine" light. The oil level was normal. He decided not to risk driving it (otherwise dealer may say later - you should not have driven it). We found local Isuzu dealer and had it towed there. The dealer found that the computer indicated "random cylinder misfire". The problem seemed "self-correcting". They assured us that it's ok to drive it back, but it has to be checked out by our dealer.
    At the moment it is still being checked out... What is "random cylinder misfire" and what the implications can be?
  • teacherjimteacherjim Member Posts: 52
    A couple weeks ago I posted about my TOD light came on blinking "CHECK", When I got home I found out that the 9 lead wire that comes out of the transfer case had come apart from where it connected to another 9 wire plug. The plastic receiver plug was broke, but I have an ASE certified friend who spliced some of the wires and made me a temporary fix for it. I took the 2001 Trooper in to the dealer and he said that he would order a new harness for the TOD. Well today I get a call saying that after he called to order it he got a call from the Isuzu district rep asking about it. The Rep said that there have been 5 cases of this in this district already this year. He said that Isuzu is or has issed a TSB to fix this problem of the 9 wire leads coming apart. The shocker is that they told him that the wires coming out of the transfer case could not be fixed!, They are going to put in a complete new transfer case in my Isuzu next week! The dealer said your lucky it's under warranty, people who don't get it fixed with the TSB will have to pay their own way when their warranty is up if they get this problem. I'll let you know when I find out more.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Almost all CEL are emission items and the SUV can be driven with no problem unitl reapired. I bet if you looked in the manual it will say the same thing. Misfires happen, especialy if plugs at end of life etc. THey can easily clear the codes and see if it happens again.

    Nothing to worry about, also can be a real pain to find the true culprit as well
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Did you use the Isuzu Roadside Assistance program for towing? Did you have to pay for it?
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    My guess is that it is a bad spakplug or sparkplugs. I had that happen to my 96 Trooper.
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