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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    This is the factory workshop manual, i.e., the manual used by technicians at Isuzu dealerships. There do not seem to be any third-party repair manuals pertaining to Troopers newer than 1996. The Chilton's manual that I have covers Troopers but only through the 1996 model year.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Has anyone purchased the extended warranty? I am looking to get one, I believe the standard drive train on my 99 is 3 years. Can I purchase one from Isuzu directly or do I have to go to a dealer? Does anyone know how to properly value one? i.e. what its cost is day1 and how to estimate future value?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm actually looking to extend my warranty on my '00. I'm going with the Isuzu Factory extended. I believe you need to get it from a dealer.

    -mike
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    My wife had a call from Isuzu one day while I was at work. They asked if we would like to purchase an extended warranty for our Trooper. She told them no and hung up. She told me about the call that night and I said "why did you do that?" I at least wanted to hear the pitch and prices. I called them back the next day using the 800 number on the website. I was transfered to the warranty division and they told me some of the basic scoop on the warranty I have and when it runs out. The guy also let me know some of the detail on the extended warranties available, but I honestly cannot remember any of it now. I have his name and phone number written on my manual (I think). I will get it when I go to lunch and post it this afternoon.

    Keepontroopin
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    OK the name of the guy I spoke to was Clode (not sure on the spelling) and his number at Isuzu is 1-800-343-0305 ext. 310.

    Hope this helps some of you. If someone actually calls and gets the info on the extended warranties please post it to this site or send it to Paisan. Maybe we can get him to add an extended warranties page to his site with detailed information. Would you be willing to do that Paisan?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Thanks for the info.

    -mike
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    I have some useful information and am not here to just make fun of people!
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    I saw your message about the Oct. 31 deadline for the ECB buy. Is it really going to happen? If so let me know so I can plan the finances accordingly! I want my series 2 nudge bar!!!!!!! How long will it take to get the items in from ECB?
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Found this at:


    http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=41


    Planet Isuzu Members – Special Offering


    American Isuzu is pleased to offer Planet Isuzoo Members and their friends and family a 20% discount on The Isuzu Protection Plan (the factory-backed extended service contract plan)


    Planet Isuzoo members can purchase an additional 7 years and 100,000 miles of mechanical coverage beyond your Basic Limited Factory Warranty of 36 months and 50,000 miles. This is a great complement to your 10-year/120,000-mile powertrain warranty. And at 20% off of MSRP!


    Why only 7 year 100,00 when the limited powertrain is 10 years 120,000 miles?


    The average Isuzu owner keeps their vehicle for 84 months. This Ultimate IPP coverage is comprehensive. It's been rated to take care of the "comforts" of driving, like air conditioning, power windows, etc. The underlying factory 10/120 takes care of the "big" items should the vehicle be kept past the seventh year of ownership and the unlikely occurence of a failure occur.


    The Ultimate Coverage is Isuzu’s best coverage. It provides breakdown protection for nearly all original factory-installed mechanical and electrical operating parts and assemblies after your basic warranty expires:


    · Engine

    · Drive Axle Front & Rear

    · Air Conditioning

    · Transmission

    · Electrical

    · Suspension

    · Steering

    · Brakes

    · Cooling

    · Fuel

    · Taxes and Fluids are included in the cost of repairs


    To qualify: Your Isuzu must be within 18 months of the in-service date and have less than 18,000 miles on the odometer. (All models)


    Your Cost:


    2 Wheel Drive: $1080 (MSRP: $1360)

    4 Wheel Drive: $1260 (MSRP: $1580)

    Deductible $25

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yep it's happening. I already have 2 paid orders. You would make 3 and I need 5 to order.

    The nudge bars should be here within 30-40 days. So that puts it right before Christmas in early december.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    One of the guys from the outdoorwire site has come up with a GREAT article on regreasing front wheel bearings. It has a complete parts and tool list, very clear instructions and even good pictures.

    You might mark this for future reference - http://www.fastriceracing.com/wwwroot/Personalpages/DaveC/Instructions/bearingrepack.htm
  • ryanendresryanendres Member Posts: 122
    Well a few weeks back I submitted my PINGing problem to the Better Business Bureau, in the hopes that corp. Isuzu might help my dealer help me. I had the computer reprogramed (no help) and tried a few bottles of Chevron Techron Concentrate (this seems to work the best, with occasional Pinging going up hills with 87 octane gas, with 89 octane I have no PINGs).

    Here it is:

    "We have reviewed your Better Buiness Bureau Customer Complaint Form. We have attached, for your perusal # 8-5 & 8-6 of the Isuzu Owners Maual relating to the condition that you refer to in the Customer Complaint Form. As you will note, a "pinging" condition is not related to computer programming but more related to the type of fuel quality and/or driving conditions that a vehicle operates under.
    As such, we cannot correct a condition in which a defect does not exist. We hope that you can understand our position in this matter. We have also taken the liberty to notifing the Better Business Bureau of our position.
    Should you wish to discuss this matter, please feel free to contact this office or your local Isuzu dealer."

    ----------------------------------------

    Oh well ... I knew that was what they would say ... so now I'm going to run 1 bottle of Techron every 3000 miles and use 87 octane for daily driving and 89 octane for road trips ...

    Cheers!

    -Ryan
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Unfortunately the refiner in your area may have a bad batch of 87 octane. Depending on where you live, all the gas stations may pull from the same reserve station, in which case all the 87 octane in your area may be temporarily tainted. Just a thought.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The type of fuel avaialable in a given political region can be dictated by your local government. I remember the gas shortages in the midwest where the numerous diferent types of fuel were part of the problem that made some areas pay more for fuel than others. Give a call to your local representative and ask what have they done to your fuel.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I'm trying to help a friend with a 99 Pontiac Sunfire. The left & right turn signals are flashing super-fast. I was assuming that one of the bulbs (front or rear) had burned out on each side but then thought maybe this could be a blown fuse. I know this is a simple thing but I'm not very knowledgeable. I threw a new bulb in each rear taillight but that did not solve the problem. I swapped the turn signal fuse with a different one from the fusebox of same amperage and that didn't help either.

    Getting at the front turn signal bulbs looks much more complicated than the rear.

    So what's the problem? Is it probably burned-out bulbs in front on both sides?
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    It's likely the flasher unit somewhere under the dash. The thing that makes the clicking noise.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    gpm-- do you think there's a fuse out in this unit, or something else wrong with it? I don't really know how these basic electronics things are handled on cars.

    I think I'll try to find a Haynes or Chilton's manual today for this car.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    The last time I replaced one, ~20 yrs ago, it looked like a small tin cylinder, smaller than a shotglass but larger than a thimble.

    It's just replacable.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    If the fuse blew, you wouldn't have any blinkers at all, so it's not the fuse.

    If both front and rear blinkers are coming on, then it must be the flasher unit, which is easily replaceable. You've alrealy replaced the rear bulbs, so if the front blinker is not working, then you just just need to replace the bulb in the front blinker.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hey all, Updated the How-to section, and the Gallery.


    -mike

    http://isuzu-suvs.com

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Well, all 4 blinkers (front/rear, left/right) are blinking; they're simply blinking too fast.

    I suppose I can get a flasher unit at any basic auto parts store.

    Thanks for the info. I bought a Haynes manual last night and it helped explain things a little bit but wasn't totally clear.

    Now back to Trooper talk...
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    St. Charles Isuzu wants $10.63 EACH for spark plugs for my 99 Trooper. That seems pretty steep. What success/problems have people had with aftermarket plugs for the 3.5 liter engine?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    St. Charles Isuzu wants $10.63 EACH for spark plugs for my 99 Trooper. That seems pretty steep. What success/problems have people had with aftermarket plugs?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Are the factory plugs NGK brand? Aren't NGK available at other parts stores?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    St. Charles Isuzu wants $10.63 EACH for spark plugs for my 99 Trooper. That seems pretty steep. What success/problems have people had with aftermarket plugs?
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    St. Charles sells the Denso K16PR-P11 plugs which sparkplugs.com sells for $4.50. The double platinum other Denso plug listed in the handbook, PK16PR11, goes for $8.00 at sparkplugs.com. I could not find a single local auto parts store that would even order a Denso platinum plug.

    The third plug listed in the manual is a Champion double platinum plug, RC10PYP4. Most local auto shops carry that plug in the $4.00 range. They also tend to refer to it by the 4 digit Champion code #7346. Sparkplugs.com wants $4.50 for that plug.

    You might also check last week's Trooper SUV board as there were several posts on spark plugs.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Try http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/


    I had great success with them for parts for my XT6.


    -mike

  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Is the double platinum Denso plug better than the double platinum Champion?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Sheesh, what's with the multiple posts? Sorry about that, all I did was try to edit my post, but that was only a minute after I initially posted...don't know HOW I ended up with 3 posts!

    Anyway, thanks for the info, guys. Breakor, by Denso I assume you mean Nippondenso? What manual are you referencing?

    I am also wondering why you quote $6.50 on the SUV-Trooper board, when I was quoted $10.63 by St. Charles? Do you get jobber prices or something?

    Regarding Champion plugs, I have a gearhead friend who is really down on Champion...guess they're not going to be my first choice.

    Regarding "platinum" or "double platinum" plugs, my understanding is that the platinum increases the longevity of the plug more than anything else. Since I intend to replace mine every 30K, I don't see this as a concern.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    the new champions in my 97 Rodeo 3.2 L are doing fine. And 30,000 miles, way too soon to replace a plug today, well, copper maybe but not a platinum.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    As to the lowball plug quote, that was the figure I was given when I was shopping for plugs (and wrote my first post). Later I got the $10.63 price when I tried to buy them. Presumably on my first call I was given a bad price.

    As to where I got the spark plug listings, I found them in the owner's manual that was in the glove box.

    I originally thought the plugs were Nippendenso but when I did a search for that on the internet I was directed to Denso sites. My conclusion is that the company's USA name is now Denso.

    As to not using Platinum be careful about this. I've read several places that part of the benefit of platinum plugs is that they can use a small diameter wire without eroding and that a small wire generates a "better" spark (http://www.performancess.com/ngk.html). Supposedly some Japanese engines are very finicky about having platinum (http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.htm).

    As to why I choose Champions, FWIW I was somewhat concerned when reading about the Denso plugs having gap widening problems. That prompted me to try and find another Japanese plug. As part of that internet search I found quite a few favorable comments regarding the non-Japanese Champion plugs so I decided to give them a try. Only time will tell if that is a good decision.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Just curious if anyone has checked to see if Motorcraft has a double platinum crossover plug? FWIW, these are the ONLY plugs that hold up in the full Yamaha V-6 & Yamaha / Ford Duretec hybrid V-8 twin cam SHO engines (own both).

    Bill H.
  • hentaihentai Member Posts: 2
    I have recently purchased a 95 Trooper S, 5 speed with about 60K miles and overall it seems to be a very robust vehicle. I have one problem that I would like to cure though. When the engine is fully warm and you engage the clutch when you are coming to a stop, it will hunt for the idle several times before stabilizing. It hasn't stalled but it gets close at about 500rpms and then goes up to 1100rpms or so and does this 2-3 times. I had the 60K service done at the dealer and they corrected a vacuum leak that they said was causing the problem. This did improve the situation but it is still not fully fixed. Also, it doesn't do this at all when the engine is cold. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hentai,
    It's likely the intake manifold gasket. I think there is a TSB or at the least a known fix for the idle problem is the intake manifold gasket.

    -mike
  • hentaihentai Member Posts: 2
    Are TSB's online anywhere?
  • i30g20i30g20 Member Posts: 24
    I had a 92 (until a couple of months ago) that did this since 1992. Sometimes it would even stall. It may be something characteristic of the older Troopers. My 2001 (automatic) doesn't vary at all. If you find a fix, I'll forward that info to the guy that bought my 92.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    I had an interesting situation recently that might be of interest to some of you techies out there. On a recent long trip I noticed that my cruise control would not engage. The on/off button worked fine, but the set button would not. I took my 2000 trooper S to the dealer and was surprised to find that the fix was to reprogram the electronic control module (ECM). The trooper had "forgotten" that it had cruise control. I had expected the fix would be a new part or a new fuse. Since I don't use cruise control very often, it was probably like that for a while. I suspect that when the ECM was reprogrammed to fix the erratic idle problem that the cruise control may have been screwed up at the same time. Those of you that had the idle problem on the 3.5 engines fixed recently might want to try the cruise control to make sure it works. This is just my theory, but it seems strange that the computer would suddenly forget that it had cruise control. FYI
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had the same problem recently. It was when I took it in for the fanton CE light. They fixed at the time:

    EGR
    TPSensor
    and Re-programmed the ECU.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    In the last 3 tankfuls for our 98 Trooper, the fuel economy has been noticeably less than normal. The driving patterns and other variables have been fairly similar to our driving in the past several months. I'm not sure why the fuel economy has tailed off. With 3 tankfuls of about 20 gallons each, this seems a large enough sample size to allow comparison.

    In 2 of the last 3 tankfuls I've added Chevron Techron. First tank I used a 20 fl. oz. bottle. After the second tankful, I disconnected the battery for 3-4 hours in hopes of gaining fuel economy due to the ECU re-learning our current driving patterns. In the third tank I used 2 12 fl. oz. bottles of Techron.

    During non-winter times, our Trooper averages about 17.5 mpg overall. During winter (due to colder temps or reformulated fuel) the average is about 15.9 mpg overall. The last 3 tanks have averaged 16.4 mpg.

    Any ideas? Does anyone know if the reformulated fuel for colder climates is already being delivered to gas stations? We're in southeast Michigan.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Like you noted the switch to oxygenated fuels could be the problem. Usually the effective dates of the switch are written on the pumps, at least in our area. The other clue can be the smell during fueling. The stuff really stinks, again at least in our area where they use MTBE.

    Another possibility is that the cooler weather has lowered your tire pressure.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I've never noticed any signs on the pumps announcing the switch to oxygenated fuels. I'll have to take a look next fillup.

    I'm pretty sure the tire pressure is on spec.

    I used to believe that it was colder air temperatures during the winter months that caused lower fuel economy in my vehicles (due to engine operating less efficiently or something) but I think it's probably the oxygenated fuel.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Here in the NE, there are stickers that say "from XYZ, to LMO this pump will disperse Oxegenated fuel"

    -mike
  • fiveharpersfiveharpers Member Posts: 53
    I have always noticed that my miles per gallon decreases with oxygenated fuel also. This leaves me to wonder were the benefit to the environment is because I have to burn more fuel to go the same distances.???
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I replaced my spark plugs yesterday, went very easy, only took an hour or so (not counting the bike ride to my friends house to get another 3/8 drive short extension).

    I needed the additional short extension to get at the rear drivers side plug. As has been mentioned here previously, the master cylinder is in the way. By using 2 short extensions, a U-joint, and the long extension I was able to make it work, by sorta feeding the short extensions into the plug hole one at a time.

    The other 5 plugs are a piece o cake. It sure is nice to have the plugs up top like that. I think back to the days of the old American V-8s, where I basically replaced plugs by feel, without ever seeing the hole...

    I found it interesting that the OEM plugs I pulled out were Champions, not Denso or NGK. I put Autolite platinums in, $2 apiece. Slight improvement over the dealer price of $10.63...we'll see if they hold up.

    Given how easy and cheap this swap was, I'm going to continue to do it every 30K.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I know it seems like we need more fuel when using low emission gas. However, I think the answer is like my high school science teacher said "We buy volumes of fuel and burn mass". The point being that oxygenated fuels are less dense so that while we use more gallons we are really burning the same number of pounds per distance traveled.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Did you install the Autolites solely because of the price? Or, did the Champion plugs look that bad such that you didn't want to reuse that brand?

    The reason I ask is because I went back with the $4 double platinum Champions. At the time I pulled Champions out of a 99 I thought the prior owner must have changed the plugs somewhere along the line. Based upon your experience maybe I too was removing original plugs. If that was the case the plugs looked excellent and would highly recommend the Champions. Then again you had more mileage on your plugs and you may have a different, and better, opinion.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So we are basically buying more fuel at the same cost to get the same amount of miles out of it? That means the gas company is getting more $ for less fuel. Very nice.
    :)
    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Look at it this way, if cleaner burning fuels were cheaper to make we would be using them year round instead of just in the dirtier months.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    That is a pollutant turning up in water supplies etc. I don't think it makes the environment cleaner. I believe it has been banned in some states.
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