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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • pacheacopacheaco Member Posts: 4
    Thank you very much. Before my starter died I had and continue to have this rubbing or grinding sound. It sounds like I have a low tire but I dont. Like the back tire is rubbing against something as it turns. Could it be the ABS. Also my flashing check TOD light goes off when I push the 4WD button on. Any ideas what the grinding/rubbing sound is? The tire pressures are good.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, here is what Isuzu says about your vehicles' timing belt. Generally, it is a good maintenance practice to change the water pump as having to do it if it fails means performing the same work to change the timing belt again. I don't know that they are prone to breaking, but since they extended the service life with this technical service bulletin, It would seem prudent to follow their advice.

    1998 Isuzu Truck Trooper LTD V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Engine, Cooling and Exhaust Engine Timing Belt Technical Service Bulletins Maintenance - Timing Belt/Valve Clearance

    Maintenance - Timing Belt/Valve Clearance


    SEPTEMBER 1999





    1998 Trooper (UX) / Rodeo (UE) / Amigo
    (UA) models


    In the past, the timing belt replacement for the above affected vehicles has been recommended at every 75,000 mile intervals, regardless of driving condition. It is now recommended that the timing belt replacement interval of the above 1998 Isuzu models follow the same timing belt replacement interval as its 1999 model year successor. The new recommended timing belt replacement interval is 100,000 miles for normal vehicle use, and 75,000 miles for vehicles driven under Severe Driving Conditions.

    NOTE :If the vehicle is usually operated under the conditions corresponding to any severe driving conditions given below, it is recommended that maintenance services be performed at the interval listed under Severe Driving Conditions.

    ^ Towing a trailer, using a camper or car top carrier.

    ^ Repeated short trips of less than 8 km (5 miles) with outside temperature remaining below freezing.

    ^ Extensive idling and/or low speed driving for long distances, such as police, taxi or door-to-door delivery use.

    ^ Operating on dusty, rough, muddy or salt spread roads.



    1998-2000 VehiCROSS (VX) / Trooper
    (UX) / Rodeo (UE) / Amigo (UA) V6 models
    with "direct-attack" valvetrain.

    For the above affected vehicles, periodic 60,000 mile valve clearance inspections are not required. Adjust if valve noise is evident or a rough idle condition exists.

    NOTE :When checking valve clearances, adjustment is required only when the clearance (lash) is out of specification. Be sure to retorque the camshaft bearing cap bolts before checking and adjusting the valve clearance.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I think the first thing would be to rule out the brake pad/shoe condition of your brake system. The ABS system does a self test but it does not sound like rubbing or cause any braking activity on its' own.
    It appears that you have rear drum brakes. The rubbing sound could be anything from the backing plate contacting the drum as it revolves to some brake component rubbing on the inside of the drum.
    Also, there is a wheel speed sensor that is in very close proximity to the moving drum and if dirt or an object got stuck it could conceivably make noise and affect the ABS system. If the noise goes away when you apply the brakes, it may simply be a shoe or spring rubbing on the drum while the brake is not applied, and should be repaired.
    Sometimes powdered iron will build up in tight spots and cause a noise as well. I would suggest you inspect or have the brakes inspected soon. good Luck
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I'm looking for a place in Memphis to change my timing belt ('00 Trooper LS). I did check with the local Isuzu/Chevy dealer and was quoted around $850 to replace the timing belt and change the water pump. Has anyone had this done and what did you pay?

  • pacheacopacheaco Member Posts: 4
    Thank you very much, just a bit more info. I had the brakes looked at and they replaced front shoes and blew out rear brakes with air, incase of dust etc. But it still the same sound. It sounds like I am driving over a break /crack in a concrete road . like there is a break every 10 feet and this never ends. Even when I push on the brakes. My check light on the TOD flashes constantly unless I push the 4WD button. Then it goes away. Is it drive shaft, transmission, transfer box, maybe? Just guessing. 1999 trooper. Thanks again.
  • dfenlondfenlon Member Posts: 2
    I'm sorry if this has been asked before i didn't find anything specific.....but........i'm going to look at a 1996 Trooper tomorrow & was wondering what were the main things to look out for on that model's got 115,000 miles and looks clean from photos. Any help appreciated. i'll post back on how it went.
  • dfenlondfenlon Member Posts: 2
    Well........i did a bit more research here though and had a good idea of what i was getting into .
    Anyway i bought it, seemed like a good deal for the price in comparison to what i see selling on ebay.

    Truck drove ok, steering a little loose, but that's pretty common from what i've read here.... Some lifter noise , nothing major , can't really here it at idle unless you open the window but i changed the oil today with synthetic 5/30, so we'll see if any noticeable difference.

    Had the check engine light come on steady yesterday, went to autozone and got the codes pulled - 3 codes were read, 2 for 02 sensors and 1 for EGR recirc....i had a look at the air filter yesterday morning before it happened , maybe i didn't reseat the cover properly ? In any event i went ahead and replaced the air filter, filled up with Premium, and used the chevron techron cleaner(as well as the oil change). Unhooked the Batt, and Check engine light is gone.

    Drove 15 miles, still no Check engine light, touch wood !

    Have a low noise towards the rear that occurs at 65-70 mph , i can't tell if it's wind noise at the rear door, spare tire wind noise, or coming from the rear tires (tires are new) or possibly rear axle noise?????? I will get the wife to drive while i hop in the back to investigate !

    All the power stuff works, except cruise (any ideas ?) AC is good, wife likes it......All in all, happy with my purchase (but being a natural worrier i'm expecting the thing to blow a head gasket or something any minute now !!!)
  • pacheacopacheaco Member Posts: 4
    I had the brakes looked at and they replaced front shoes and blew out rear brakes with air, incase of dust etc. But it still the same sound. It sounds like I am driving over a break /crack in a concrete road . like there is a break every 10 feet and this never ends. Almost like a flat tire sound. Even when I push on the brakes. My check light on the TOD flashes constantly unless I push the 4WD button on. Then it goes away. Is it drive shaft, transmission, transfer box, ASB maybe? Just guessing. 1999 trooper. Thanks again.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    I am wondering whether any of the Isuzu Rodeo had any Rear Air Vents, my 98 Rodeo does not have one. I am not sure whether the 2000/2001 model of the Rodeo just before they stopped production had any Rear Air Vents out of the back side of the Center Arm Rest (Console). Is there any off-market upgrade available to add some air to the rear seats, I am thinking can anything be done by using the air coming out of the two small ducts under the front passenger seats.
    Appreciate your help.
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    The CHECK TOD light blinks and the code says speed sensors. There are 2 sensors but they cost near $350.00 each. How do you test which sensor is defective> Need help or Trooper is a goner. Thanks
  • onuronur Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I've just bought a 2000 Trooper. As you said, I could not find a dipstick for transmission. I read the instructions but I am not clear how am going to add fluid from underneat the car. Could you please, tell me more detail about this. Thanks, Tony
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    You can buy a plunger type canister at an auto store that will evacuate or fill through a tube by pulling or pushing the plunger. If you want to just add fluid, the spout of a gear oil plastic bottle will accept a 5/16" or 3/8" ID clear hose you can buy at the hardware. Just push it down on the tapered spout and make it at least 18" long....the longer the easier to use. If you don't have an empty gear oil container around, there may be something else I don't know about out there to try. The beauty of the homemade is that you can see the liquid moving through the line as you squeeze it. simply squeeze until you have enough fluid in the trans to reach the top threaded opening of the trans. (It will spill out around the tube, as the tube is smaller than the ID of the hole.) If the hose is long enough, you can invert the container and it is easy to use even underneath the vehicle.
    Hope this helps.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I don't find a means in the manual to check the speed sensor. The do have one for the transfer case position sensor, but I don't know for sure if that would help you.
    I think the sensor itself is basically a Hall effect sensor that senses the intermittent passing of a steel gear or serration and the TOD module simply compares the readings front and rear to determine when to apply TOD. Maybe someone with more experience can tell you how or if you can bench test the sensor. That price is unreal!!
    Good luck.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, sorry so long to respond, I thought someone might have a suggestion. Here is what Isuzu says about noises in rear end:

    1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Differential Assembly Testing and Inspection Rear


    Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle actually originate from other sources such as tires, road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission, muffler, or body drumming. Investigate to find the source of the noise before disassembling the rear axle. Rear axles, like any other mechanical device, are not absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless some abnormal noise is present.
    To make a systematic check for axle noise, observe the following:

    Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and body drumming.
    Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
    Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run the engine speed slowly up and down to determine if the noise is caused by exhaust, muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
    Tire noise changes with different road surfaces; axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to 344 kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will change noise caused by tires but will not affect noise caused by the rear axle. Rear axle noise usually stops when coasting at speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire noise continues with a lower tone. Rear axle noise usually changes when comparing pull and coast, but tire noise stays about the same. Distinguish between tire noise and rear axle noise by noting if the noise changes with various speeds or sudden acceleration and deceleration. Exhaust and axle noise vary under these conditions, while tire noise remains constant and is more pronounced at speeds of 32 to 48 km/h (20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by driving the vehicle over smooth pavements or dirt roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal pressure. If the noise is caused by tires, it will change noticeably with changes in road surface.
    Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause noise which may be confused with rear axle noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does not change when comparing drive and coast. Light application of the brake while holding vehicle speed steady will often cause wheel bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings may be checked for noise by jacking up the wheels and spinning them or by shaking the wheels to determine if bearings are loose.
    Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring insulators dampen out rear axle noise when correctly installed. Check to see that there is no link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
    Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact between the floor and the frame. After the noise has been determined to be in the axle, the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to make any necessary repairs.
    Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to 55 mph) under four driving conditions.

    Driving under acceleration or heavy pull.
    Driving under load or under constant speed.
    When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle from driving the engine while the vehicle slows down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
    When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the throttle closed. The gear noise is usually more noticeable between 48 and 64 km/h (30 and 40 mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
    Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear noise. Bearing noise frequently "wow-wows" at bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion or rear axle side bearing. This noise can be confused with rear wheel bearing noise.

    Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while coasting at low speed with transmission in neutral. Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear wheels, spin them by hand and listen for noise at the hubs. Replace any faulty wheel bearings.

    Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or cage and side gears as required.

    Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the side gear splines, excessive clearance between the side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage, worn pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash. Remove worn parts and replace as required. Select close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and ring gear backlash.

    Maybe this will help you!
  • swu30swu30 Member Posts: 1
    Hey! I just bought a '96 w/107k on it. It was at a dealer 250 mi away so I didn't have the advantage of having my regular mechanic give me the up or down sign on it. I ended up driving it home that day. I have the loose steering too, a few degrees to either side. Everything works incl A/C, I've dropped it off at the mechanics so they can give me their list of things needing repair... I hope it's a short list! Otherwise, so far so good and I like it, but like you I'm waiting for the tranny to take a dive tomorrow...
  • waterman2waterman2 Member Posts: 3
    I know the air control valve is bad on my 1993 Isuzu pickup and I have the replacement part, but I have been unable to locate where it goes. Do you know exactly where it goes?
  • waterman2waterman2 Member Posts: 3
    Can someone tell me exactly where this located on a 1993 Isuzu 4X4 pickup?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    You don't mention the engine you have, but I think it is the 2.3 If not, I am not sure if this will help you. It is located on the throttle body; If you look you should see the throttle position switch mounted opposite the bellcrank that opens the intake butterfly and has a wiring harness. The next electrical device behind the bellcrank should be the IAC valve, which also has a wiring harness. Some had flange nuts holding them on, others had bolts. You say in your post that you have the new one, so I hope you can identify it once you look on the throttle body. If you have misidentified the valve and it is a different engine, there is another switch that works with the idle, but I will not be able to give you any more detail (if needed) until Monday when I can check my manuals. Post if you need more detail then. Good Luck.
  • yoroscoyorosco Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue with my 2001 Trooper. The guy at Isuzu gave me three error codes when it was scanned. If I am correct Error code 13 and 14 was the front wheel speed, 24 was the rear wheel sensor circuit. There is a specific code for either the front or rear speed sensors. He is telling me I need to replace both! I have a hard time doing this as he too is quoting me $350.00 a piece and $450.00 labor. Unfortunatley I haven't found anyone who can validate the findings. Only Isuzu has the equipment to read the TOD error codes.
  • waterman2waterman2 Member Posts: 3
    Actually my engine is a 2.6 "fuel injected" with a manual transmission. Do you have info on this engine? Thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    1993 Isuzu Truck Pickup (4WD) L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1)
    Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed) Description and Operation

    Description and Operation

    Air Regulator

    Provides a means for increased idle speed when the engine is cold.

    At the front of the intake manifold.

    The regulator allows air to by-pas the throttle valve, thereby raising idle speed. The regulator contains a temperature sensitive electric element that causes the air bypass to close gradually as the engine warms up. When the engine has run for approximately five minutes, the valve should be fully closed.

    The air regulator is energized through the fuel pump relay and not directly controlled by the ECM.

    1993 Isuzu Truck Pickup (4WD) L4-2559cc 2.6L SOHC (4ZE1)
    Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Auxiliary Air Valve (Idle Speed) Specifications


    Resistance 45 - 50 ohms

    Here is a link to a photo of your engine and location: to/v./photo.jpg

    Hope this info helps!
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    You may be able to find an independent mechanic with the Tech 2 tool and Isuzu adapter so that he car read codes. The TOD codes are in the powertrain module, which is easily accessible through the Tech 2 (which is what Isuzu dealers use).
    The trick is getting the codes read right from the powertrain module. The sensors on the transfer case are fairly easy to access, so I cannot imagine why the part or labor is so high!!?? except that it is a dealer!
    The 13 and 14 codes you refer to I am not sure of, but the 24 code is for the brake pedal switch circuit, and the ecm turns off the transfer case solenoid (electromagnetic coil which energises the clutch pack) if it see the brake is applied while the TOD is in action. It does not set the check light but does store in the memory when it is malfunctioning.
    Hope this information helps. One guys opinion.
  • snowalkersnowalker Member Posts: 3
    I'm doing the brakes on a 1995 Isuzu Trooper LS 4W with a 6 cylinder engine.

    I have the tires off, and the calipers but can't get the rotors off.

    Direction, suggestions please.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    The 1995 4wd Trooper has automatic locking hubs on the front. The rotor is integral with the wheelbearing/autolocking hub so, those parts need to be taken apart to get the rotor off. Be ready with the proper grease and repack the bearings and the autolocking hubs while apart.
    The rear of the 1995 Trooper has a drum parking brake concentric with the disc brake rotor.
  • lashbylashby Member Posts: 3
    2000 Trooper w/3.5L Automatic/TOD 4WD, 123,000 miles. Dealer replaced transmission under warranty at 118,000 miles. Since then have experienced problem at startup that has gotten progressively worse. Dealer is at a loss for fix. Symptoms are:

    Startup in morning engine rpm increases to about 2000rpm, then idles down to almost dying, increase upwards toward 1500rpm, down again until it finally levels out at about 1000rpm. Placing gear selector in reverse (any gear) smooths out engine idle and performance is normal except for a flashing check engine light as long as you depress the accelerator. Shutting the engine off, start back up and flashing CEL is gone.
    Drove to dealer this morning with CEL flashing after usual startup rpm fluctuations. Left it running so technician could see what was happening. He confirmed flashing CEL and when we returned to service dept he connected scanner to check codes while engine was still running. Absolutely no CEL codes while in park or in gear while CEL continued to flash. After disconnecting scanner, shut engine off and restarted; no CEL, perfect idle, etc.
    Previous (yesterday 09/12) dealer replaced intake manifold gaskets since they determined a cracked gasket was causing an air imbalance on cold start. The new gaskets haven't changed a thing.
    Am wondering is vehicle may have a faulty electronic idle switch or some other magic piece of electronics/sensor in the Fly-by-wire setup that is causing the problem or if something about the transmission replacement could be causing the problem.
    Am returning the Trooper to the dealer this evening so they can continue the diagnosis. A kudo for the dealer, Duncan Jeep/Isuzu in Blacksburg VA. Service Manager said if the intake gaskets did not correct the problem there would be no charge.
    Any help appreciated.
  • snowalkersnowalker Member Posts: 3
    How do you get the auto hub off? I removed the outer clip and I have two springs, a washer but part of the assembly is still
    there. I don't know how to get it off to get to the wheel bearing nut. Do you have an exploded view of assembly?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Try this link to see exploded view: - - if/photo/v./photo.jpg

    There is a hub nut which must be removed, requires a deep well socket to reach. It sounds like you have gotten to that point. Good Luck.
  • snowalkersnowalker Member Posts: 3
    I found a snap ring I missed, and I got the rotor off.
    My mistake, well, it looks like i took the clutch assembly apart... I rented a deep well socket set - didn't have the right one (they all had 4, i needed 2). I'm trying to reassemble now.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Idle Air Control Valve and Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor. Also, make sure the Alternator and Battery are good, a low voltage from the Alternator/Battery can confuse the hell out of the ECM and hence creates random symptoms like you have described. In the morning when you first start the engine (Cold Start) it first idles at higher rpm till the engine warms, after that it will idle around 750-800 rpm, the reason for this that the ECM runs in a open loop form till the O2 sensors warms up to 600F or so, this is by design. The CEL light flashing when you start the engine for few times and then disappearing also seems to be normal, untill and unless it is happening way after the start of the engine is completed. Have you changed the Timing Belt recently by any chance, if that is true then it could be incorrect installation or Belt jumping which could be the cause of these symptoms.
  • inigoinigo Member Posts: 5
    HELP!!! Just got done replacing head gasket on trooper, changed all the gaskets and the water pump gasket, started to fill with fluid and it comes gushing out from underneath, it appears to be from above the transmission area, i am machanically exhausted with this truck but it really is a love hate relationship, I really want to see it in the mountains again, any ideas would be really appreciated.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Which engine are you working on...there is a L4 and V6 for your year vehicle.
  • lashbylashby Member Posts: 3
    Thanks bahmed for the diagnosis and insight. I have been thinking about the possibility of some type of idle control sensor being out of wack. The flashing CEL remained active for about 15-20 minutes. When I got to the dealer I left it running so the tech could check codes. After he found none I then shut off the ignition. Immediately restarted the engine with no flashing CEL and perfect idle. I will discuss your comments with the service rep. Appreciate the info and will post the outcome. Thanks.
  • inigoinigo Member Posts: 5
    It's the 4 cyliner 2.6
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I am not familiar with the 4 cyl., but in general, there may be a freeze plug on the back of the head. If not or if that is not the problem, you indicate that the coolant is coming from the transmission area. If you have checked above and around the heater hoses to be sure they are not leaking, and the head was installed and torqued properly (means you don't see any coolant around the gasket area, then you may have a freeze plug on the rear of the block that chose this time to leak. It seems like it would be a small leak that would gradually get worse over time though. If the coolant is gushing, I would look for something I (you) missed while reassembling the truck. Have you checked the engine oil for coolant as well? That might show an improperly installed gasket and the need to retorque the head bolts. Sorry I can't be more specific. Let us know what you find. good luck
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    There were a bunch of water coolant hoses around my 1984 1.9L L4 engine and on my 1995 V6 as well. I suggest looking at all the hoses. Maybe one end of a hose fell off, or the hose has failed. The hoses are difficult to reach and therefore are usually only changed if they fail.
    A positive note: At least you have a visible and verifiable and traceable non-intermittent consistent problem which can be solved without risk of damaging the engine.
  • inigoinigo Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info, I should have said it does not start leaking until I get to a certain point like filling a bowl with a leak, the freeze plugs would make sense, I plan on looking at them this week and will let you know thanks.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    No problem, let us know what will be the final fix, another thing to check is the 'Transmission Mode Switch' also known as 'Range Switch' or the 'Mode Switch', it is a Electro-mechanical switch located on the side of the Auto transmission on the Driver Side, this Switch tells the ECM which gear the truck is in, the switch goes bad around 80K and the symptoms are rough shifting from 1st to 3rd and vice-versa, I did had the howering idling in the first start in the morning and it settled down after the engine warmed up, search for my other post on the transmission mode switch, I did not have the rough idling since I changed the Mode Switch, by the way the Mode Switch went did not produce any CEL or Check Transmission Light, but the Dealer did pull the codes about the switch, so not codes will bring the light on the dash. If you also have sluggish power, it sounds like the Timing belt issue.
  • lashbylashby Member Posts: 3
    Dealer called this morning. Said problem is with MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure. The service rep said the voltage was off causing it react much as if there was an intake manifold gasket leak. The MAP was replaced yesterday and codes checked. The Trooper was restarted this morning (outside temp around 58 degrees) with no abnormal idle or flashing CEL. Hope this takes care of the problem; I'll drive it myself for several days to see what happens. The dealer (Duncan Jeep/Isuzu in Blacksburg VA) had already changed the intake manifold gaskets based on the symptoms. I did not have to pay for the gasket change since that did not fix the problem; kudos to them! Appreciate the help and I am sure your input help put them on the trail to the problem. After your initial assessment I asked the service manager if they had checked to ensure the ECU and any related sensors were within specs. He was pretty insistent that it was the manifold gaskets since they have had problems with them in the past. Unfortunately, sometimes we zero in on the "usual" problem and same old solution when that is not always the case. I think you gave me some insight to make them think about it a bit more. Again, thanks and will keep you posted if the problem reoccurs. Cool site! :shades:
  • asoupleyasoupley Member Posts: 4
    I have a similar problem with my 2001 trooper (2WD). I have determined that the sound is coming from my right rear wheel. From in the car, it sounds like a "waw, waw..." noise starting at about 10 mph, and the only thing that makes it quit is by stopping the car. From spinning the wheel, it sort of sounds like a grinding noise. I am not sure if it would be the wheel bearing, or an axle bearing.

    Anyway, what would be the best way to determine which it is, and how difficult is it to replace? I am fairly mechanically inclined, and have access to tons of tools (auto-hobby shop on base).

    Also, where can I find a maintenance manual for my 2001? I have looked and looked, and cannot find one anywhere.

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, Are you sure it is not some component of the brake system that is causing the noise? That would have the highest probability of causing a noise. You have an internal parking brake shoe system that can cause an intermittent noise. Removing the caliper and rotor may help you isolate, but if it is a bearing, the outer usually is the one that goes first. They are not too hard to do, and the seal will need replacement too. You could try an online manual at if you cannot find one locally. I am sure that a Chilton or other publisher can also be found, if you have the time. I bought mine on ebay, used. Hope this helps. /photo/v./photo.jpg
  • inigoinigo Member Posts: 5
    Well i had the chance to look at the hoses in the light of day and I lucked out, it was a hose on the back of the motor, totally blown out, well, a lot easier than any freeze plugs, thanks for the insight.
  • asoupleyasoupley Member Posts: 4
    Atfdmike, thanks for the quick reply AND the drawing. I checked the brake and parking brake, and it still makes the noise even without these components on the axle. I am pretty sure it is the outer bearing as well.

    You said that I need to replace the seal? NAPA lists an inner and an outer seal. I am assuming that this is the outer seal I will need? Are these the only two parts I need to buy?

    Thanks again for the help.
  • ammodogammodog Member Posts: 2
    My kid is at it again, your advise last time was of great Value... He reversed his leaf springs and you guys predicted damage and guess what you were right... Leaf springs are back now in the proper way.

    He cut his fenders at school today and but 34" tires on his 1996 trooper. he is parking it at the schools shop and is buying a Engine and drive train out of a 4cyl 2.4 lt 1986 Toyota pickup. He is under the idea that its going to cost about 100 bucks more for parts to get all this in. Im thinking is going to be way more but I need info from you guys.

    Right now he is running all stock execpt for these tires.

    I dont want him doing this if its going to cost allot because he does not have the money to do it.

    here is a photo of his rig...
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    He will need many new parts to mount the Toyota engine with proper wibration absorption and get the exhaust system to work, maybe need to change an expensive catalytic converter if he is subject to emissions testing. There is an engine computer in the 1986 Trooper, probably also an engine computer in the doner Toyota, he will need to research carefully all the inputs to the computer he chooses to use and se that all are the proper type. Some sensors might be on the Isuzu stuff he wants to keep that is not mounted on the engine directly.
    On the flip side, Isuzu makes a tough engine, it could be rebuilt if the need of a rebuild is his motivation for less expense than the Toyota swap in my opinion. Or he could look for another Isuzu engine in a junk yard that is known to fit.
    With a lot of carefull labor and design skill to make custom adapters from raw materials available free in the shop, he could make it work on the cheap, but how well will it work?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I'm with Boxtrooper on this one too! Just the electronics is going to be a nightmare, and even if it is an older, non computer engine, he is going to need to make provision in wiring for the starter, alternator, grounds, ignition and not even to mention the need to fabricate engine and trans mounts ( including possibly moving a cross member, accelerator linkage, trans shifter linkage, drive shaft length changes,etc: This project would test an experienced mechanic, but to do it at school, part time, with little technical support would be daunting. Maybe it is time to "remind" him of the spring rework and suggest a slightly less radical rebuild of his existing powerplant. He can do that in a high school shop, get lots of technical support, and if he wants more of a challenge, then rebuild the trans too! Just one guys opinion!
  • shaopengsunshaopengsun Member Posts: 17
    I found my 2000 trooper's Check Trans light on. It is 4x2 and has no problem before. At low speed, when I speed up slowly, I can feel the shake of the car. We love this car. Please help

  • geelonggeelong Member Posts: 3
    Hi all. Recently my '98 3.5 V6 manual trooper (Jackaroo) with about 100,000 miles on clock had a major "seizure" - headgasket blew, water pump failed, and ended up requiring a new cam, new head (tiny crack). The engine had to be removed completely. Since getting the vehicle back from repair, after about 15 minutes driving the clutch gets stiff (seems okay when cold and when I accelerate (all gears)there is a delay in uptake (revs almost like a false neutral initially then power seems to come on). Mechanics claim they didn't touch the clutch so perhaps something else they did is causing this? At idle it chatters almost like a diesel (engine used to be quiet as a mouse). Finally there is a definite oily smell when the engine is hot - never previously apparent. It's going back but I'd appreciate any clues people muight have. Many thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    the check trans light means a code has been set and that can be read by a Tech 2 or other diagnostic code reader. That is the only way the codes can be read. Most national auto supply stores will read them for free. Be sure to get and write down the specific language and code number(s) when you do this. good luck
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, sorry about your troubles. First off, if they only removed the engine, then they did touch the clutch, and it could be as simple as the clutch mechanism being installed wrong to as much as a damaged pressure plate or damaged or missing pilot bearing from removing the engine, or the clutch fork mechanism being knocked off the mechanism that holds it, or the clutch system may need to be bled. If they removed the engine and trans as a unit, then they can claim to not have touched the trans., but they would have had to unhook the clutch slave cylinder from the system to remove the engine and trans as an assembly.
    As to the rebuild, if the engine was not carefully cleaned before running, you can get some burned oil smell, but that should go away after some use. The chattering sounds like timing issues, could be the timing belt installation or something they did during cam installation and setting up during the valvetrain repairs. There are oil seals throughout the valve train that must be installed properly and the oil leaking out may not be apparent due to covers keeping the leak out of sight.
    I hope this info gives you a little insight. good luck, another Trupr owner.
  • shaopengsunshaopengsun Member Posts: 17
    atfdmike, Thanks for your help.

    Do you know what's the problem could be? Thanks.
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