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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    It is very common on the Rodeos like after 6-8 years of use, it is due to a part worning out in the Fuel Sending Unit, the part is like $40, but you need to drop the fuel tank, take the whole sending unit and change this electro-mechanical part, sometimes you may have to change the entire fuel sending unit. Isuzu has redesigned this part for longer life to my knowledge, it is a labor intensive job and particularly removing the snap ring to pull out the sending unit. Hope this helps.
  • rabbottrabbott Member Posts: 2
    Hey whats up I am in Costa Rica and have a 91 trooper that runs great for the most part but when I first start it and start driving usually after 5 minutes or so the first time I come to a stop it flashes check Trans I turn it off and back on and its fine until the next time I turn off for a while and turn back on and it repeats what was the answer for you you seam to have had the same prob mine is a V6 automatic......Rick
  • rabbottrabbott Member Posts: 2
    My 91 automatic trooper V6 has a check trans light come on and flash only after the first time I start in the day it goes to a 3rd gear safety mode and I shut off restart and its fine for the rest of the day...any ideas
  • matausmataus Member Posts: 43
    Hello Everyone….!

    First of all, I want to say that it is GREAT to find a Trooper forum running around out there. This forum was quite difficult to find. It’s a great pleasure to meet you all!

    6 months ago, I purchased a 1991 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 5 speed manual Trans with a 2.8 litter 6 cylinder. The truck it in excellent condition! It’s the beautiful color of red with nearly perfect interior with no dents or scratches. When I first purchased it, I went out of my way to have a bunch of stuff done it to make sure everything was up to par. I changed all fluids. I.e.: oil, manual trans fluids, flush and fill coolant, engine flush, fuel system flush, break fluid, AC, etc… I also had the breaks done all around, new tires, new ac compressor end dryer, shocks, and tune-up with new plugs/wires/roter/distributer cap. I look at all of this as to be preventive medicine. Always better to be safe then sorry.
    I do have one problem though that maybe you all can help me resolve. I live here in Denver Colorado. And being in the mountains, there are its challenges when running up and down in the hills. The problem I have is horse power. Not to long ago, I brought my children up in the mountains to go camping. We had a blast! It was the first time I was able to run my truck in four wheel drive! It went everywhere anyone else could go and much more! I was really amazed by its performance! The unfortunate problem I have it when the truck is running high end. When I shoot up into the mountains via the highway, I’ll hit around 65 mph. Once I start to hit any kind incline (and the incline doesn’t have to be much), my truck starts to bog down. I will be going 65 mph in fifth gear, and then I will have to work down into fourth, and so forth. My truck holds up great in first thru third gear. It is nice, but I find myself holding traffic back because I am not able to increase my truck speed up “any hill” at fourth or fifth gear. I am boggled by this. Could it be a sensor of some sort? Oxygen or Map sensor? Everyone tells me that my truck is just old, and I will just have to deal with it. I do try to keep that in mind, but when I’m running up any kind of incline or inner city hill, and see a U-go (however you spell it), or an old Datson passing me bye, I have to wonder if there is maybe a problem here. If there is anyone out there who can help me in anyway with this, It would be GREATLY appreciated…. Oh, and by the way, I have so many people come up and ask me about my truck. They've never seen one in such great condition! There doesn't seem to be any nice ones running around out there these day! It's to bad, I love my Trooper!

    Maddy :sick:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, as long as you are not getting a check engine light then you might assume that all is working as best it can. The 2.8 was a seriously underpowered motor to start with, and I believe it is based on the GM 2.8, which also was sluggish. The good thing about your motor is that it has torque at the low end and it is quite durable. Given your location, I am not surprised that your "uphill" performance is poor. Your uphills are at the high end of the spectrum! :P Your vehicle is also at least 15 years old, so the motor is not brand new! It sounds like you are doing everything right so relax and enjoy the scenery!
    One owners opinion. Good luck.
  • snake6283snake6283 Member Posts: 4
    Bought a used 1995 Trooper S, and it has had a progressively worsening leak of power steering fluid. Took it to the shop (I'm not that handy) and replaced the hose, still leaks like before. It's almost like it's shooting out of the receptacle, because there's always about an inch to two inches in the bottom of the receptacle every time I look, but it's not enough to keep the p/s working. It's already dripped through and corroded out the alternator once, apparently, and I'm worried about replacing it again. Anyone have a similar problem? Do I need to replace the apparatus itself, or is the hose just not put on right? TIA for all help.
  • nevets1234nevets1234 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Trooper that I bought new. While driving a few weeks ago at night, I turned on the driver's side overhead map light and after a minute the actual switch fell down from above, turning the light off. The next day the passenger side switch did the same thing. Upon inspection, both of these switches are held in by a plastic housing that "clips" into the overhead console. The plastic must have somehow been defective and broke on both switches.

    Does anybody know how/where I can get replacement parts for this - used is fine? Has anybody had a similar problem? This seems very odd to me... Any comment is welcomed!
  • scotmcfscotmcf Member Posts: 1
    I purchased this vehicle back in November and it is rough, but, serves its purpose of hauling around my dog and small furniture. I recently had clutch system replaced and ever since then coincidently or not the check engine light has been coming on.

    The light comes on about 10-15 minutes into the first drive in the morning. If I stop for coffee for five minutes witht he engine turned off I get back in and there is no check engine light. But as I begin to travel down the road a few minutes later it will come back on.

    Thoughts --- by the way I am not a mechanic so advice in laymens terms would be appreciated.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    There should be a code set if your light is coming on. A search of the isuzu forum should tell you where your diagnostic connector is and how to read the codes. Post what you find and maybe more help will follow. Good luck
  • kairapapakairapapa Member Posts: 1
    Hey there; Mike here in Washington state. 91 trooper v-6.
    I too, have the same trans. light issue. Mostly, this winter
    when it's colder. Coming to a stop I generally can hear a faint click, the light wil come on flashing, and the trans remains in high gear. after turning off and restarting, the gears return to normal. I have taken the truck in and have had 0 luck with diagnostics in the past. Have you had any success finding out the problem / and solution. Please let me know.
    Thanks Mike
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Search for my other posts on this issue, it is most probably the Transmission Mode Switch, also known as Range Switch etc, it is located on the driver side of the transmission in Rodeo, it is an elctro-mechanical part, which tells the ECM which gear the transmission is in. It is a common problem and the best solution is to change the switch, the part costs around $150 plus labor. you may want to eliminate the Transmission oil being low or pitch black if you have not checked/changed the Transmission oil in a while. You may definetly want to get the code read before jumping to any conclusions, these are the hints only. Good Luck
  • tntmythtntmyth Member Posts: 70
    Did you ever figure out a way to get the front turning assembly out on an Isuzu Troooper 98-2002? I am afraid if I pull any harder, I will break it. I did take out the screw on top. I read the answers to your message that there is a plastic stud in the back of the assembly going into the fender. Did you find a special tool to use? I tried a plastic spoon to pry it out and the spoon broke! I am considering taking the Trooper in to the Isuzu dealer as I don't see any alternative. Seems silly to have the dealer change a lightbulb.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I just replaced my front turn signal bulbs. One burnt out, so since I bought a pair of replacements I decided to change both. The left one came off really easy. The right one was tough, so I did not take it off the first try. I waited till I had more than a few minutes to work on it so I would not be in a hurry. With a long time of gentle but determined wiggling the left one popped out just like the right one. No damage to either of them. Once out the bulb socket has a 1/4 turn bayonet attachment to get access to swap the bulb.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I finally had the Timing Belt replaced on my '00 Trooper Monday. It cost about $368 total, labor, part, tax, shop supplies...also, it needed 1/2 gallon on coolant to replace that lost during the installation. The part was just about $100 and labor a little over $200. They estimated about another $200 or so to add the water pump, but I decided to wait on that since I may keep the Trooper for another year or less. Oh, mileage is just a little over 111K.

    I used a local garage since they quoted about $300 less than the dealer ($850 for both water pump and timing belt at dealer, about $550 at the local garage.) I consider this garage to be reasonable, not rock bottom, just reasonable. But I'm satisfied with their work and comfortable with their work.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I wondered what parts they replaced on your trupr, as I just did my 94 and it cost me $184 to do the belt,idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and hydraulic pusher. Mine still had the old style pusher that has now been upgraded.I also did the water pump (which was a pain since the gasket was really stuck to the block) and that was an additional $65. It was a lot of work but I found it interesting, and now I feel more comfortable knowing what I have! I did the water pump along with the rest.
    I think you got a real reasonable price considering what has to be done just to get to the belt assembly. It took me the best part of 6 hours to do it myself, start to finish.
    I have now replaced the alternator, battery, starter along with the above, but I still like the vehicle. The engine is noisy though. I had hoped it would quiet down a little with the belt change, but no joy there.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Just had the timing belt replaced. Other than 1/2 gallon coolant, those were the only parts. About $105 parts, and the labor was $220 or so, then tax & shop supplies. I think they charged about 2.5 hours labor. It would have added about $200 to have the water pump included...only about 1/2 additional labor. I called the dealer last fall and they quoted around $850 for changing the timing belt and water pump, so I finally broke down and got a local garage to do it. I'm thinking of replacing the Trooper in maybe a year or so, but might keep it several more years if it keeps going okay. The wife drives a loaded '04 Envoy XL and there are a couple of ways we might go.

    I like the Acadia/Outlook for a 7-8 passenger alternative, but don't think I need to replace the Trooper with that and have 2 high end, I might get a pretty basic Envoy (have seen them advertised for $22K) and look at the Acadia/Outlook when it is time to replace the Envoy XL. Not ready to jump on anything right now.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I think you might enjoy the base Envoy, as it seems to be a well engineered and established model now. The base vehicles are actually quite well turned out. The XL and Acadia are nice, but for styling and comfort, buying the vehicle to fit your needs might mean giving up the bigger passenger load for the price, comfort and utility, especially if you don't have to haul than many people.
    The Auto show is going on here in Michigan now, and there are some really nice deals out there right now.
    Thanks for the info on your trupr.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I like the Envoy XL my wife drives. I have gotten used to the extra room in the Trooper, Envoy is a little tighter. Base Envoy would probably be fine for me, only drawback is that we like power seats for the comfort and being able to get some thigh support. The Envoy XL is the SLT version even with good discounts and rebates was over $30K. I don't think we need 2 vehicles at $30K or more. Anyway, I'm thinking the Trooper has another year in it before we need to start looking at replacing one or both.

    We usually only haul a big load or more people on vacation to the Gulf coast. I have a 5'x12' trailer for big loads or dirt/ that when I went from an S10 to a SUV. So while I like a larger vehicle, I don't really have to have one.
  • kobokokoboko Member Posts: 34
    I just noticed the other day that after releasing the hand brake on my 2001 Trooper, the Brake light on dash remained on. This was after temps. dropped to -10F here. I initially thought it might be a stuck switch, but now thinking maybe it needs new pads or fluid is low. Does anybody know what triggers this brake light apart from the hand brake? I'm waiting till it warms up a little before i start troubleshooting in more detail. Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Low fluid level will cause the light to come on. If you don't have a leak in the system, then your pads are probably worn and need replacement.

  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Could be...if you are going to replace pads soon, just add enough brake fluid to get to a level that will turn the light can probably just see if the level is low by looking since I think the reservoir is a see through plastic. If you fill the reservior to the full line, when you compress the caliper pistons to install the new pads, that will force enough brake fluid back up the line to overflow. One option is to bleed and/or replace the brake fluid when changing the pads to obtain the correct level.
  • kobokokoboko Member Posts: 34
    Thanks for the input guys. After temps warmed up to around 10F yesterday, the light went off. The fluid level is just around the add mark, maybe tad bit higher, car only has 43K miles so i wasnt thinking i would be needing pads so soon, but maybe i guess. at cold temps the fluid contracts, which could have triggered the light to come on, or maybe the hand brake switch was stuck with such cold temps (-10F with -30 windchills). I'll check the pads over the weekend when i get some free time, my wife usually drives the truck. This Trooper has been almost flawless from the day we bought it (6 yrs now), & we hope to put many more happy miles on it! Believe it or not, we have had more issues with our 06' Odyssey than the Trooper-- Honda USA's QC is really falling. I think the fact the Trooper was assembled in Japan made a big difference.
  • bigredtrooperbigredtrooper Member Posts: 5
    When I bought my '98 Trooper last month and the first few times I drove it, I could have sworn that the Fog Light Switch Indicator light was green. Now I see a somewhat white indicator light on the switch. The fog lights themselves seem to both be working OK. Did I just imagine I saw green before?

    Also, I'm usually pretty good at figuring out what things are used for, but can anybody tell me the purpose of the 1 inch wide, half inch high half inch deep depression on the bottom lip of the instrument cluster?

    It's directly beneath the fuel gauge. The only thing I can think of is it could be a placeholder for a PTT microphone for a CB, or some other accessory that glues into the opening. Any ideas???

    Not a big problem I know, but stuff like this bugs me. :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Could be for an old aftermarket alarm system.

  • csh3csh3 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2000 Trooper and during the test drive the rear wheel TOD indicators were solid green. Now when I start the engine, the rear wheel indicators flash and then the check light illuminates. How is the TOD supposed to work? Should all four wheel indicators illuminate on the TOD? Is there a TOD switch? Is the check indicator and critical problem or safety hazard? The Isuzu dealer in my area states that it could take 2 weeks to get my vehicle serviced. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I really like this Trooper and hope the problems isn't major. My husband is mechanically inclined so maybe he can correct the issue. Thanks again.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I have an older Trooper but there is a lot of discussion on the TOD system, Torque on Demand. Basically, there is a module under the seat that monitors the prop shaft speeds between the front and rear props. A sensor for the front and one for the rear monitor the revolutions and when a large enough difference exists, as induced by wheel slippage, the module tells the transfer case clutch to engage (or Not) and distribute power proportionately to the axles. Bottom line is check the connectors on the sensors which are on the transfer case. The sensors themselves are quite expensive. The module can set a code which in your trooper can only be read by a tech 2 or similar. If the indicators flash, there is probably a code set. As far as I know, there is no switch, but maybe someone else will know for sure. As for safety, I don't think it is dangerous to drive, but you lose the automatic engagement of the transfer case, and I don't know what that can mean to driveability. Hope this gets the information flowing for you. If you search the "trooper" forum using the search link you will see a lot more about this option. Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you hit the auto-4wd switch you can put it in 2wd. See if you can do that, also put it in neutral and use the lever to put it in 4wd-lo to engage it. See if that clears up the check TOD light.

  • laparka55laparka55 Member Posts: 8
    let me tell you exactly how to fix this problem....

    when you hit the incline -- everyone in the car needs rock back and forth -- in unison of course. the momentum should keep you moving forward. :)

    or you could move to KS like I did...

    I had an '87 back in the day and we'd go from Denver to Craig once a month and trust me getting passed by semis' was the norm..
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554

    I'm looking to answer a couple questions today while my parents' Trooper (a vehicle I owned for its first 7 years) is being evaluated at a local independent shop.

    1998 Trooper with TOD, approx 130k miles, good mechanical condition.

    1. Does the following sound like a transmission problem?

    2. If so, what if anything can be done to fix the problem?

    3. How much would YOU sink into trans work on a vehicle that is probably worth $3,000-4,000 tops? The body is in decent shape but there's a small dent above right rear taillight and some rust under the bottom of the rear window. Interior - everything still works including the 6 CD changer and the cloth upholstery is in really good shape for a 9 year old vehicle.

    Few weeks ago, Dad has Trooper transmission serviced. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the shop did a power flush blow out old fluid using a machine, etc.) against my recommendation. Only prior trans service was a drain adn fill around 70k miles.

    Past few days, Mom reports vehicle driving funny. I drove it briefly on Saturday, and there's definitely something wrong. Vehicle lurches accelerating from 20 to 40mph and at higher speeds, says Dad. Also notice a pretty loud whomping recurrent noise from rear axle/wheels. Not sure if this whole thing might be some sort of brake issue, or multiple issues (seems unlikely), or what.

    Thanks in advance for the help. I really love this truck even though it isn't mine any more, and I'm hoping it can be made right without breaking the bank.
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Check the transmission oil level to eliminate low oil level in the transmission. Check the Transmission Mode Switch, also known as the Range Switch, if it has never been changed, it could be the problem. Search this forum for the
    Mode switch for more details. The loud thumb could be the Slip yolk needs some grease. Slip yolk is part of the Drive Shaft assembly. Hope this helps and Good Luck
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Supposedly, the problem was actually a bad wire (spark plug wire?) to one of the cylinders and it was misfiring.

    I'll wait and see if that is the only problem; shop is replacing plugs and wires today, charging my Dad only $190 for everything including the labor to investigate the problem. This seems like a really reasonable price.

    I'm still concerned that the trans power flush could have caused some issues -- not sure what, if anything, can be done at this point to reduce chances of trans problems caused by the power flush.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you think the power flush may have dislodged gunk, you could try another fluid change or two and hope it "thins the clots out some." From the comments around here, it seems that most failures occur pretty soon after the flush though. Or maybe people don't associate a failure with a flush they got a year before.

    Instead of pulling transmissions, maybe Aamco will come out with a balloon gizmo - angioplasty for your tranny. :P
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    There are lot of opinions on whether to have a Flush or have Drain and refill. Most of the time the recommendation is against the flush, particularly for high mileage cars which did not have regular drain and refills as the flush will remove the built up layers of lubrication. On my 98 Rodeo,Auto 2WD regularly having drain and refill every 30K, sometime immediatly after having the drain and refill the Transmission settles down to the new oil after few hundered miles and have some slips from 2nd to 4th etc few times. This is purely my own individual experience and opinion. Hence, you might want to wait a while before deciding that there is really a problem. Glad to know it was only a bad spark plug wire.
  • offgasoffgas Member Posts: 2
    G'day one and all.I am from Victoria, Australia and have been having a problem with my 2000 3.5l V6 Jackaroo (Trooper)'surging/misfiring' after being driven for about an hour. The check engine light does not come on, dealership is reporting no faults logged and problem is overcome by cycling engine off/on. This problem only started happening after I had the motor fully rebuilt at 100000kms. I'll give you a bit of background info leading up to motor rebuild and what I have done since. Let's see .... bought vehicle in July last year, August saw us take it on an adventure through the Alpine regions and highplains. One particular track had 20+ river crossings but on crossing #3 I drove through a slightly deeper fjord and found the air intake was not that well protected. Yep, hydraulicaly locked the motor due to water in the intake. Motor would not turn at all. After clearing out cylinders af said water the motor was making a very loud noise. Towed car home and upon inspection found i had bent #6 conrod. Removed motor, had it rebuilt and put back in myself. When putting the intake manifold back on (after about a month) found there was still about 1 liter of water in the intake manifold. Motor started up with no problems and I thought I was done. September last year-- first warmish day of Spring and car starts 'surging/misfiring' when revs get to 2500-3000rpm.Was doing this when car was stopped and just putting foot on acc. pedal. Limped car home and one week later problem happened again on 30degC day. Limped car home and took to dealer the next day and of course no faults logged and car running perfectly. For the next 4 months every time car was driven on 30degC+ day for over an hour problem would occur again. Then one day 40degC problem started happening and motor eventually stopped. Cycled ignition off/on, motor started and everytime revs reached 2500rpm car started bucking like a bull at a rodeo. cycle ignition and o.k. till revs got to 2500 and so it went. Another time problem starts happening, limp car to dealership, turn car off whilst getting service manager to come for a drive, of course no problems with service guy in car. March this year checked fuel flow from return line under car (next to fuel filter). Getting about 300ml/15secs. SPEC is 'at least 380ml/15secs from filter. Changed fuel filter (the one removed was that dirty there is still a brown stain on my driveway 4 weeks later) and rechecked fuel flow. Now getting about 370ml/15secs from return line. This is with motor not running and pump bridged at relay.Should I recheck the flow from filter or replace fuel pump as I am not getting spec flow from return line. (with motor not running the flow from filter should be the same as the flow from the return line) How could this be the cause and why does the problem only happen after an hour of driving and clear by cycling the ingnition off/on??????Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Could be the ECU?

  • offgasoffgas Member Posts: 2
    Is there any way that this can be tested?(apart from waiting for it to completely shag itself)
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Since you have rebuilt the motor, make sure all the cylinders are at the correct settings with the timing belt, I heard some cylinders could be 360 degress off, a indication of sluggish performance. Check Fuel Pressure regulator, Idle Valve Sensor, Manifold Apsolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor. 2500 rpm noise is usually associated with a bad Timing Belt Tensioner pulley and the Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley could be bad. Hope this helps
  • lowridahlowridah Member Posts: 1
    my SUV wont start or even crank
    what should i do
    the lights come on and everything else works but the truck wont start
    somebody help me please
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2000 Trooper. Can you explain what exactly is meant by a 'grade logic' transmission. I am having a problem with my trans. error light/module when pulling a trailer. How does this transmission adapt for extra towing capacity and could this be related to my problem?
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    FYI, approximately two years ago I read an item with regards to modifying the OEM oil filter and threaded oil adapter to improve the oil filter and cooling capacity. I purchased and replaced the the OEM threaded adapter, with one that fits the ford V6 ranger (96-2000?)oil filter. This unit provides twice the capacity of the standard Isuzu filter (increases oil capacity by approx. 3/4 quart). I then changed to the higher end 'extended life' filter (7,500 miles) and Mobile One Gold (extended life) synthetic oil. I now change my oil/filter twice a year (Spring & Fall)and the oil never appears dirty.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Do you have the error code number? Post it to get some more help. Is there a driver selectable towing switch as well?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I have a '00 Trooper LS. I believe the Grade Logic is a means that the tranny senses you are going downhill and applies some engine braking as you would by downshifting a manual tranny. Many automatic transmissions would pretty much just freewheel going downhill and allow your vehicle to gain speed and to slow down that acceleration you would need to either downshift or use the brakes.

    I have felt this engine/transmission braking a number of times on a downhill slope.

    I don't know if this would have anything to do with your trans. error light when towing.

    Does this happen when you are towing in D (overdrive)? Many times it is recommended to tow in 3rd expecially if you are towing a 'load' nearing the capacity of the vehicle.

    Trooper IIRC is rated at 5000 lbs with load distribution hitch or 3500 with a standard class III hitch. How much are you towing?

  • richf1968richf1968 Member Posts: 3
    Hi All,

    thanks in advance for any replies...

    I have a 2001 Trooper with 101K miles on it. it's been running great and I just had a few 'routine' maintenance items taken care of.
    spark plugs
    air filter
    fuel filter
    pcv valve
    timing belt
    water pump
    serpentine belt
    egr valve

    so, I'm driving home today and everything is fine. I have a 20 miles commute that is a mix of highway and side road. I exit the highway and have approx 1 mile left to get home and the check transmission light comes on. Also, when I press the gas pedal I heard and clicking sound coming from underneath and could no accelerate past 30 mph.
    I made it home and parked it in the driveway.....

    And ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


  • richf1968richf1968 Member Posts: 3
    Weird.....just went out to check it out and it ran fine. I took it around the block but that was all.

    I'd still like to try and find out what is going on.

  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    It is a 2000 Trooper, which was the year that they manufactured the heavier trans with the 'grade logic' system. I have an after-market trailer/hitch which is bolted onto the frame and both are rated at 5,000 lbs. The trailer weight is 1,200 lbs., with a gross of 3,200 lbs. As with a bike, I wouldn't think that starting in 3rd. gear (either going up hill or with a heavy load) would be the recommended choice. The dealer said that it was a trailer hitch wiring problem, which blew the trans module. The error light comes on when I pull the trailer, even with the harness disconnected. Also, I was told that the trans would be stuck in a single gear if that were the case. Thanks, Dennis
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    There might be some similarity as with my posted problem. As I had responded to user 'wlbrown9', I was informed that one thing that one of the symtoms (starting with the 2000 Troopers)is of a faulty trans module. This causes the vehicle to lock in one gear (limiting acceleration). Did you notice whether your trans was able to shift during when the problem occurred?
  • bigredtrooperbigredtrooper Member Posts: 5
    Anyone have a link to this information?

    I am interested in installing a Pure Power cleanable permanent oil filter. Their web site doesn't have any trooper-compatible filters. But there is a model designed to fit the Ranger. :D
  • desimonesdesimones Member Posts: 18
    I don't have the re-usable oil filter that you are referring to, but I had converted my my oil adapter (filter thread mount) to accept the the larger V6 Ford Ranger (which I believe is a Fram PH8). So you wouldn't have to worry about it fitting a Trooper filter! I found the adapter on one of these Isuzu forum sites.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    As with a bike, I wouldn't think that starting in 3rd. gear (either going up hill or with a heavy load) would be the recommended choice.

    I believe if you use 3 instead of drive it starts in LOW, then second and tops out at 3rd but does not go into overdrive.

    I've got a Hidden Hitch brand aftermarket hitch, class III. It is rated at 5000 lbs with weight distribution system, 3500 lbs without. I think I remember seeing another model that may have been rated at 5000 lbs without the weight distribution setup. I think the Trooper will handle the 5000 lb rating without a problem.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I think the two tow ratings for the same hitch are with and without trailer brakes. I would guess 2000lb. without trailer brakes and 5000 or 5500 on some models with trailer brakes.
    I have found the Trooper with the way the rear axle is held solidly in place makes a very stable tow vehicle.
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