Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • asoupleyasoupley Member Posts: 4
    I am trying to replace my rear passenger side wheel bearing. I remove the axle, and place the axle on a press to remove the bearing. This thing will not budge! We had 8000 lbs of pressure on it, and it would still not move. I followed the directions exactly from

    Here is a exploded view from atfdmike: /photo/v./photo.jpg

    After I pulled the axle, I removed the snap ring (10 in the diagram), and placed the axle in a press. It looks like the retainer (9) is holding everything on. According to everything I have read, it should just press right out. A guy at the machine shop said that you have to split the retainer and replace it, but this is also part of the sensor for the anti-lock brakes. I am pulling my hair out here!!! :mad:

    Anyone else ever experienced this? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They took the engine out and put a 100,000 miles old clutch back in it? That wasn't a wise decision...why don't you flush out the hydraulic fluid in the clutch slave and master cylinders. Maybe that'll help. As for the burning, there's probably an oil leak dripping onto hot engine parts I would guess. The chatter is lifter noise. Sounds like these boys need to re-examine their work.
  • valkyriemcvalkyriemc Member Posts: 2
    I have 333K on my '90 trooper. There is a heater hose that goes around the back of the engine, two years ago mine ruptured. I was able to repair it by cutting it back and re-attaching it, and then refilling it with A/Freeze. I think that it also attaches to a metal tube too. (I repaired this in city-on the bad side of town I might add.) You will be able to find the leak due to the flow of fluid. One thing you need to do is re-torque that head, I'm thinking 500 miles but I may be wrong. Mabe 1500 miles. Someone else may know for sure. But these vechicles are notorius for blown head gaskets and cracked original heads. I've had it all. I'm driving this baby till 500k.... good luck with yours..
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    From all I can tell, the retainer should come off fairly easily. However, if the spline of the axle is distorted between the retainer and where it went in to the differential, that may be why it will not press off. You might be able to tell by looking at the axle splines and seeing if they are perfectly straight or they may have some small distortion. Otherwise, pressing it off is the only thing the manual says, and replacing same unless it is damaged on removal. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
  • sillylittleboysillylittleboy Member Posts: 4
    Okay... I'm not automotive genius, but I have been able to fix a few things on cars or vehicles over the years. So, forgive me if I seem stupid or ask stupid questions.

    My girlfriend has a '96 Isuzu Rodeo V6 4WD that the starter has begun clicking when you try to start it. Usually if you keep clicking away (turning the ignition key) it will eventually start. I know it has something to do with the starter and please understand that both of us are very "financially challenged" at the moment, so a cheap fix would be the best one for now.

    I've read in this forum and in the general forum about similar symptoms and have read conflicting suggestions or answers. I've heard where one person said it was definitely the starter and then another said it was probably the starter solenoid. I've gathered some information from here to check the connections and do a little troubleshooting, but even some of that information has been sporadic and inconsistent. I've seen starters for this make and model of Isuzu that you can actually purchase the individual parts for the starter, so I could potentially narrow that price down to less than $20, if it truly IS the solenoid. A local friend of mine seemed convinced that the clicking starter symptom was generally a bad solenoid.

    The car will start, but not until you click it a few times.

    Any advice, suggestions, links, guides, or trouble-shooting tips to narrow down specifically what is wrong with the starter and/or the solenoid, would be greatly appreciated.

    Silly Little Boy
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    If you hear the clicking, then pretty much it is nothing but the Solenoid, the cost of the parts is like under $5 for the Solenoid contacts, that is all you need to change in the starter, you can do this yourself, take the Starter out and change the Solenoid copper contacts, if you are mechanically handy, it is 45 min job. Be aware that sometimes if the Transmission Mode Switch goes bad or if it is shifted, the Starter will not even get energized, for example even though you have the transmission in PARK, due to the problem in the Transmission Mode Switch (if there is problem), the ECM thinks the transmission is in REVERSE, hence it will prevent the engine from starting. One way of confirming it is the Solenoid contacts which have gone bad for sure is to hammer the starter with a Rubber hammer few times around the starter gently, this will help shed the dust or carbon build up on the Solenoid contacts and fixes the problem temporarily.
  • sillylittleboysillylittleboy Member Posts: 4
    Thanks bahmed for a simple straight forward answer.

    I'll let you know how it goes. I'm mechanically and electrically skilled enough to handle all of that. While I don't have any automotive education, I did pick up an Elect. Tech. degree many years ago, though I long since left that career path behind for the world of business, but have kept onto the knowledge and the abilities.

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I checked my sources, and have not found that there is any trick to removing the ABS axle retainer. It should remove fairly easily. As far as the bearing, a bearing remover is employed by the factory manual: if/photo/v./photo.jpg

    I think they use a remover because of the tight proximity of bearing to flanges. It does seem like a press should be able to remove it though. Hope this helps.
  • asoupleyasoupley Member Posts: 4
    After a many many phone calls to local shops, I finally found one that knew what they were doing. I am not sure how they did it, but they were able to press it off and replace the bearing without destroying the retainer. I am not sure what I was doing wrong-I was not able to speak to the guy that actually did the work. Oh well, it did not cost that much to just have the machine shop do the work for me.

    Now it is so quiet in the Trooper that I can hear everything else that is making noise... :) Thanks again for all of the help.
  • stephanvstephanv Member Posts: 5
    Hi there,

    I am little old New Zealand, and my 1996 isuzu is having issues with the TOD check light. As far as I can tell everything is working properly, but the green rear wheel lights keep flashing and the check light comes on, only when it is in 2WD mode (on my trooper the TOD is engaged with a stick shift as opposed to a switch on the dash). If I switch off the ignition and run the car in TOD auto or in 4WD Low there is no error, as soon as you put it back into 2WD mode the lights start flashing. I have had a look around as you have suggested and have shorted out pin 8 on the connector to ground. The TOD error code is 33. I have no idea what this means. I hope someone can help

    Thanks. Isuzu Bighorn, ex japan 3.1 diesel. Auto + TOD
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414

    I am personally unfamiliar with the TOD system except from what the manual says about it, but I looked up the 1996 model year for Trooper since that is all I have available to me. The book says that TOD was not available in that year for the Trooper. I do not know how a Bighorn compares, but the diesel was not an option either here in the US.
    Sorry and good luck
  • stephanvstephanv Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for coming back to me so quickly - any chance of having a look in subsequent year's manuals or a different model truck/vx to give me a clue as to what error 33 on TOD might be - I suspect that the error codes probably don't change much over time or between models. The scan tool at the local garage couldn't pick up the TOD fault. Thanks again
  • stephanvstephanv Member Posts: 5
    Thanks heaps - I'm sure that armed with this and my multi meter I'll find the problem! Really appreciate the info - very hard to find
  • inigoinigo Member Posts: 5
    Hello, I am in need of a vacuum diagram, I have looked at the one under the hood but it doesn't seem to cover all the hoses, or I am just to dense to understand it, if anyone has a better diagram or knows where I can get one I would appreciate it, or if someone has an 90 trooper 2.6 efi and could take some pix and send them to me I would really appreciate it.
  • mracermracer Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know of one? :) I am trying to buy a 1999 - 2002 trooper and would love to find a mechanic specializing in this car.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Anyone got a laymans terms description of how to adjust the timing belt tensioner on a 94/96 Trooper 3.2 sohc/dohc engine? The manual says how to do it, but cannot figure out what it is describing after looking at the pusher? Help please?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Replace the timing belt tensioner when you replace the timing belt. My 1995 Trooper developed a tick like noise that was not from the lifters and it turned out to be the timing belt tensioner going bad. I had changed the timing belt about 20K miles before, I replaced the tensioner and the belt again since it was open.
    The water pump should be changed when the timing belt is changed because the little bit of expense to change the water pump when the front of the engine is all opened up makes it a worthwhile preventive maintenance.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    How much did you pay to have timing belt and water pump replaced? How much for the water pump? I'm due. I called the dealer here in Memphis and was quoted $800-850 for both. I guess I need to find a local mechanic that will do it. '00 Trooper LS.

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Timing Belt replacemet was a long time ago for my 1995 Trooper. If I recall correctly, it was something like $400 in labor plus parts, between $500 and $600 total including the timing belt and water pump and new coolant and oil change etc...
    I am a couple thousand miles away from timing belt replacement on my 2001 Trooper. I expect the price to be similar. I will also replace the belt tensioner just in case.
    I use a shop that came into existence to work on Isuzu troopers but they have expanded into more brand names now. They are awsome for their attention to detail and helping prevent expensive repairs by checking for things that typically go bad to catch the problem early. They also are honest.
  • stephanvstephanv Member Posts: 5
    Hi Again,

    I'm getting closer, but haven't quite found the problem yet - I am now starting to suspect that the TOD ECU is not functioning correctly, but not sure. My TOD ECU has only a 20 pin connector, so it doesn't match the 1998 version and so I can't follow the diagnostic process because I don't know the correct pins. Meantime, I have found that the VSV's are definitely not faulty (I checked their operation and compared nominal resistance against your post of service bulletin SB96-04-L006).

    What seems odd is that the voltage on the connectors that plug into the VSV's is 4.95 volts, no matter which mode (4wd/2wd or tod) the truck is in, and no matter which way the axle dissconnect is positioned (engaged or disengaged) - the disconnect indicator switch and the disconnect acuator all work fine (proved by reversing the vacuum hoses and watching the indicator etc).

    Without further documentation, I would have expected the voltage to be 0V when 4WD or TOD is engaged and 12V when 2WD is on. On the 1998 diagram there is no relay inbetween the TOD ECU and the VSV's only a wiring harness.

    Can you find.... a wiring diagram of any Isuzu TOD ECU (Amigo/VX/Rodeo perhaps) with only a 20 pin connector and the associated trouble diagnostic flow charts? and can you confirm what voltage I should expect across the VSV circuit when both VSV's are unplugged. Is there a fuse/relay in the mix, or if the voltage comes straight out of the TOD ECU, could that be faulty???

    An finally - could you please post the diagnostic flow no 12 for error code 32 as well and let me know how to clear the TOD computer memory of faults.

    A massive thank you for your help so far.
  • stephanvstephanv Member Posts: 5
    Oops - mistake in my last post - the TOD ECU Connector has 22 pins not 20
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    OK, I am kind of lost again. You need a diagram for what number of ECU pin connectors? And you would like the code description for TOD 32?
    As far as clearing the codes, the easiest way I know of is to disconnect the battery for about a minute. A scan tool is needed otherwise, although if you knew which fuse supplied the TOD module, you could remove that for a like period of time to clear the codes.
  • bucwoodybucwoody Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Trooper. I have replaced the alternator several times. I understand that the alternator is the weak link in this year/model. A short time after I replaced it last time a funny thing started to happen. The blower fan would run after I turned the key off. I have complete wiring diagram and check all the relays and the ignition switch. They all appear to be fine. With the key OUT, the battery connected the fan runs. I can turn it off with switch in the dash (I checked that too). If I pull the restart relay, the fan stops. So I am getting hot to the No.2(or 1) of the restart relay with key off. The best I can tell from the wiring diag's is that is coming for the altenator. Does this sound right?

    If so, can anyone recommend an alternator brand, aftermarket, whatever.

    Oh, if it matters this is a Trooper-S.

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, I am far from an electrical expert, but I looked at the wiring schematic, and it seems to me that the restart relay or blower motor relay is the culprit. It may be sticking closed which then supplies power from the alt. to the heater motor, which is always on unless the blower control is in off position, which removes the ground from the blower motor circuit. I think the relay to the side of the restart relay looks like the same type of relay. I did not look to see what it does, but if it is the same, you could swap it to see if that corrects the problem. If it does not, then I suppose the blower relay could be bad. My suggestion hinges on the fact that when you turn the key off, the relays should open so that nothing is energised that should not be. I used the Alldata electrical diagram to look at your trooper. If you have A/C, the compressor may also have power if the A/C button is on as well. The A/C is trickier though, as cold temps or system condition can also be a factor on whether the compressor sees power. Hope this helps. One owners opinion. Good Luck
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Thanks. When I got the pricing from the Chevy/Isuzu dealer here in Memphis, I got the impression they were not cutting me any slack for having both of them done together. I'm going to stop by an independent shop one day on the way home and see what they might be able to do them for. If I get it done I'll let you know.
  • bucwoodybucwoody Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I have checked both (restart & blower relay) of these with a omh meter and putting voltage across the resistor, they seem fine. One of the things I did and did not mention was I disconnected the white (directly from battery) wires at the alternator and the blower stops. My main problem is I cannot tell if that should be hot into the restart relay? In other words is the restart relay always hot on terminal 2? That does not seem right. The way it looks is the restart relay temporarily disrupts power to the blower and AC when the key is on start (starter engaged). But I am far from an expert.

    Thanks for you input.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, like you, I am no expert, but in looking at the schematic available to me, I cannot see the actual settings of the restart relay. Here is a link to the diagram I am looking at for the starter system: - if/page/photo.html#pic

    It shows a black and white wire that should only be hot when the key switch is in start position.

    The restart relay is also shown in the heater/AC schematic, but actually appears twice, I think. Here is another link to what I am looking at: - if/page/photo.html#pic

    For some reason I cannot get the address to post correctly, the .gif is split up. Try to copy and paste into address box and delete the space and hyphen.

    I just cannot wrap my head around where else the blower could get power if not through the blower relay and restart relay. Could the anti theft controller be holding the restart relay on? Maybe someone else will offer an opinion. Good luck.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    You might want to rename your album and give it a short-name. Go to the album (or a photo in it) and up near the description in an edit link. Click that. You want to change the field from TROOPER FORUM

    to something like -No spaces.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Thanks Sylvia, I changed the album name per your suggestion. I did not know that there was a limit to the number of characters for the link.
    Will previous photo links still take a user to the right place?
    Thanks again.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Answered my own question....nope. So here are new addresses for the most recent posts. Feel free to let me know if you need an older link reestablished.

    Links regarding alternator/blower motor/restart relay ml#pic ml#pic
  • jnormanjnorman Member Posts: 1
    hi, i need help desperately. i am borrowing my moms car, the 93 trooper dohc....
    i was driving last night, when the engine sputtered and died. i let it sit for the night, then checked it out this morning. when you turn the key, the starter kicks in, but the engine wouldnt start. i replaced the fuel filter, since it was an easy cheap thing that needed done anyways.
    after replacing the filter, i tried starting the car. i cranked it several times, for about ten to twenty seconds, to try and make sure the gas lines were full.
    it was trying to start, but then, i turned the ignition off, removed the key, and heard a weird noise....
    it sounded like a vacuum at a car wash. the only way i could get it off was to disconnect the battery. the sound is coming from the front, bottom drivers side of the engine, and i need to know what to do.....
  • neo37650neo37650 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper with the 3.5L V6. When I first press down the gas pedal I get some hesitation but if i hold down the gas pedal it smoothes out after a only does this with the initial acceleration like from a dead stop not if i push the pedal down while driving. I have completely removed and cleaned the EGR valve, MAF sensor, and changed plugs and air filter. Also I keep hearing a rattling sound when the engine is cold and i first accelerate but it also goes away after i get some speed up. I crawled under while it was running and checked the exhaust with a glove and didnt seem to find any exhaust leaks, although that is where it sounds like it is coming from.....Can anyone give some suggestions?
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    You may want to check the Intake Manifold Gasket Leak, a whistling sound comes at cold start if there is any leak, after the engine warms up the leak closes and the sound goes away, this has been observed by many Isuzu users, checking the Fuel filter, using a Fuel Injector cleaner, may help as well.
  • neo37650neo37650 Member Posts: 3
    As far as replacing the Intake Gasket....This is my 2nd Trooper first was a 91 but havent had the 2000 very long, is replacing the gasket something that should be done by a professional or can it be done by myself?....I have some mechanic experience but not a whole lot. How should I go about checking the gasket to see if that is it?
  • bahmedbahmed Member Posts: 66
    Forgot to mention in my previous reply, if you had a Timing Belt change recently, then that is the first suspect, incorrect Timing Belt installation or timing belt jumped and everything is out of timing, a sluggish accelaration from stop to go is primary indication.
    I have heard a leaky Intake Manifold Gasket change is a medium to complex difficulty job, I would reccommend a professional to work on it once it is confirmed. Hope this helps. Check the Transmission Oil level and condition as well.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    A word of caution. Cranking the engine for a long period will damage the starter. Personally, cranking more than 20 seconds is a long time. You should wait several minutes before cranking again if you crank that long more than once or twice. In your case, the fuel pump is electric and only runs for two seconds when you first turn on the key. After that, unless the engine builds up oil pressure the fuel pump stays off until you release the key and turn it to off then back to ignition again. Try this several times before cranking, as you may have gotten some air in the lines when changing the filter.
    As to your noise, I can't think of what might be making a noise that does not stop without unhooking the battery. That does not sound like a vacuum leak. Are you sure about the location of the noise? the anti lock brake unit if equipped will cycle periodically but not constantly. When you reconnect the battery, does the noise start up, or only when you try to start the trupr? The fuel pump does make some noise, but should not be running constantly unless the trupr is running. The pump is mounted in the fuel tank in the rear of the vehicle. Hear anything back there? Good idea to have someone listen when you turn the key to on to make sure it is kicking on and off properly. Let us know.
  • bucwoodybucwoody Member Posts: 3

    Thanks for your input. It was the alternator. I took it out and took a jumper to the main connection and was getting 12 volts across the body and the L plug. I took it to an alternator shop they checked one out of the box to compare. That's not suppose to happen. And explains why my battery was being drained. New alternator fixed the whole thing!
  • renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    :blush: Just purchased a 94 trooper at a steal "almost free" I love it. I got the tranny rebuilt but I don't know where to start with any other maintenance since no service record were left in the suv.It has 190000 and a recent oil change sticker. Only problems I noticed = driver and rear locks won't open with key and leaky power steering. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • johntiijohntii Member Posts: 2
    I have a 87 Trooper II, 2.3L Gas. 269,000 miles.
    My instrument panel (oil, temp, and gas gauge)doesn't read anything. "E" on gas when the tank is full, no temp reading and no oil pressure. The panel is getting electricity and the gauges check out ok. Truck runs fine for it's age and miles.
    Where can I get a decent manual that goes into detail? Is there an online source? Anyone got any ideas?
    Thanks for your help.

  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, the best advice I have seen if you don't want to search this and similar forums is ebay, where manuals can be had fairly cheaply. Some ebay sites also offer the repair and parts list for your vehicle (often a copied series of pages). Online, the most complete I have seen is, but they are a subscription service. Alldata has the electrical diagrams and manuals for any vehicle sold in the United States. Good luck
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    Hi, Congrats on the 94 Trooper. I have the same year myself and have really enjoyed it. I was in the same position as you when I bought it, but I changed all the fluids, went to Mobil 1 in the engine and Amsoil Trans fluid for the auto trans. I also changed the front and rear differentials to synthetic Mobil 1 Light Truck Fluid, and the Power Steering fluid changed to regular Dexron II trans fluid per factor spec. The Transfer case uses regular 30 W motor oil. One thing you don't mention is the condition of the timing belt. Our year belt was meant to be changed every 60,000 miles. The engine, SOHC or DOHC, to the best of my knowledge, is an "interference" engine, which means if the timing belt breaks, catastrophic damage to the engine could result. On a used vehicle with no history you will have to decide when or how far you want to risk driving it without knowing the condition of the belt.
    My PS is leaky but not so bad that I want to change it yet. As for the door locks, do you mean that the key won't open the door at all, or that when you use the key the drivers door will unlock but not the rest of the power lock doors in the Trupr. The rear door is also keyed and has power locks, does it work? Perhaps this forum can supply more help once we know the particulars of the problem. Good Luck.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Online, the most complete I have seen is, but they are a subscription service

    Some public libraries (Seattle for instance) subscribe to Alldata, so check with your local reference librarian too.
  • johntiijohntii Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I'm tracking down each sensor, now. Temp gauge is up and working. Now to find the gas and oil sensors.l
    Thanks for the Alldata intel.
  • renet10renet10 Member Posts: 13
    ;) Thanks for the great advice. To clear up the door lock issue - i mean that the key won't turn the lock on the drivers side or the rear door. When i use the key & turn the passenger side lock all locks open but the passenger side rear and the rear door. The drivers side rear is stuck in child lock mode but- no big- my daughter sits there. I don't know how to judge the condition of the timing belt. The engine doesn't tick though. i looked inside of the window and there is a recent oil change reminder that hasn't expired yet.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Member Posts: 414
    I would try using a light lubricant or specialty lock lubricant available at the hardware or auto parts store to try and loosen the lock mechanism (tumblers?) first. After lubricating, gently work the key back and forth to see if it frees up. It is not uncommon for the rear door to freeze due to dirt, etc; that circulate back there.
    If lubricant and patience does not work, then the inner door panel can be removed to see if there is something else physically keeping the lock from turning, such as a rod, frozen latch lever, or frozen power door lock module.

    The timing belt is very important. There is no easy way to check it short of removing the timing belt covers to look at it. If you decide to do that, you may as well plan on changing the belt and any other parts that may look worn, as removing the cover is a lot of work. I guess you will have to use your best judgement on what will work for you. IS there a dealer ID anywhere on the trupr that you might call to find a service history using the VIN, or a former owner to contact? Good luck.
  • rxtrxt Member Posts: 1
    My accelerator pedal's cover keeps falling off
    any ideas where i can get a replacement
  • x90071x90071 Member Posts: 8
    my fuel indicator never goes above 1/2 or below 1/4. Is this very costly to fix?

    Thanks for the help.
Sign In or Register to comment.