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Here is a exploded view from atfdmike:
After I pulled the axle, I removed the snap ring (10 in the diagram), and placed the axle in a press. It looks like the retainer (9) is holding everything on. According to everything I have read, it should just press right out. A guy at the machine shop said that you have to split the retainer and replace it, but this is also part of the sensor for the anti-lock brakes. I am pulling my hair out here!!! :mad:
Anyone else ever experienced this? Thanks!
My girlfriend has a '96 Isuzu Rodeo V6 4WD that the starter has begun clicking when you try to start it. Usually if you keep clicking away (turning the ignition key) it will eventually start. I know it has something to do with the starter and please understand that both of us are very "financially challenged" at the moment, so a cheap fix would be the best one for now.
I've read in this forum and in the general forum about similar symptoms and have read conflicting suggestions or answers. I've heard where one person said it was definitely the starter and then another said it was probably the starter solenoid. I've gathered some information from here to check the connections and do a little troubleshooting, but even some of that information has been sporadic and inconsistent. I've seen starters for this make and model of Isuzu that you can actually purchase the individual parts for the starter, so I could potentially narrow that price down to less than $20, if it truly IS the solenoid. A local friend of mine seemed convinced that the clicking starter symptom was generally a bad solenoid.
The car will start, but not until you click it a few times.
Any advice, suggestions, links, guides, or trouble-shooting tips to narrow down specifically what is wrong with the starter and/or the solenoid, would be greatly appreciated.
Silly Little Boy
I'll let you know how it goes. I'm mechanically and electrically skilled enough to handle all of that. While I don't have any automotive education, I did pick up an Elect. Tech. degree many years ago, though I long since left that career path behind for the world of business, but have kept onto the knowledge and the abilities.
I think they use a remover because of the tight proximity of bearing to flanges. It does seem like a press should be able to remove it though. Hope this helps.
Now it is so quiet in the Trooper that I can hear everything else that is making noise... Thanks again for all of the help.
I am little old New Zealand, and my 1996 isuzu is having issues with the TOD check light. As far as I can tell everything is working properly, but the green rear wheel lights keep flashing and the check light comes on, only when it is in 2WD mode (on my trooper the TOD is engaged with a stick shift as opposed to a switch on the dash). If I switch off the ignition and run the car in TOD auto or in 4WD Low there is no error, as soon as you put it back into 2WD mode the lights start flashing. I have had a look around as you have suggested and have shorted out pin 8 on the connector to ground. The TOD error code is 33. I have no idea what this means. I hope someone can help
Thanks. Isuzu Bighorn, ex japan 3.1 diesel. Auto + TOD
I am personally unfamiliar with the TOD system except from what the manual says about it, but I looked up the 1996 model year for Trooper since that is all I have available to me. The book says that TOD was not available in that year for the Trooper. I do not know how a Bighorn compares, but the diesel was not an option either here in the US.
Sorry and good luck
The water pump should be changed when the timing belt is changed because the little bit of expense to change the water pump when the front of the engine is all opened up makes it a worthwhile preventive maintenance.
I am a couple thousand miles away from timing belt replacement on my 2001 Trooper. I expect the price to be similar. I will also replace the belt tensioner just in case.
I use a shop that came into existence to work on Isuzu troopers but they have expanded into more brand names now.
http://www.creechimports.com/ They are awsome for their attention to detail and helping prevent expensive repairs by checking for things that typically go bad to catch the problem early. They also are honest.
I'm getting closer, but haven't quite found the problem yet - I am now starting to suspect that the TOD ECU is not functioning correctly, but not sure. My TOD ECU has only a 20 pin connector, so it doesn't match the 1998 version and so I can't follow the diagnostic process because I don't know the correct pins. Meantime, I have found that the VSV's are definitely not faulty (I checked their operation and compared nominal resistance against your post of service bulletin SB96-04-L006).
What seems odd is that the voltage on the connectors that plug into the VSV's is 4.95 volts, no matter which mode (4wd/2wd or tod) the truck is in, and no matter which way the axle dissconnect is positioned (engaged or disengaged) - the disconnect indicator switch and the disconnect acuator all work fine (proved by reversing the vacuum hoses and watching the indicator etc).
Without further documentation, I would have expected the voltage to be 0V when 4WD or TOD is engaged and 12V when 2WD is on. On the 1998 diagram there is no relay inbetween the TOD ECU and the VSV's only a wiring harness.
Can you find.... a wiring diagram of any Isuzu TOD ECU (Amigo/VX/Rodeo perhaps) with only a 20 pin connector and the associated trouble diagnostic flow charts? and can you confirm what voltage I should expect across the VSV circuit when both VSV's are unplugged. Is there a fuse/relay in the mix, or if the voltage comes straight out of the TOD ECU, could that be faulty???
An finally - could you please post the diagnostic flow no 12 for error code 32 as well and let me know how to clear the TOD computer memory of faults.
A massive thank you for your help so far.
As far as clearing the codes, the easiest way I know of is to disconnect the battery for about a minute. A scan tool is needed otherwise, although if you knew which fuse supplied the TOD module, you could remove that for a like period of time to clear the codes.
If so, can anyone recommend an alternator brand, aftermarket, whatever.
Oh, if it matters this is a Trooper-S.
Thanks for you input.
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/ISUZU%20TROOPER%20FORUM/94starterwire1.g- - if/page/photo.html#pic
It shows a black and white wire that should only be hot when the key switch is in start position.
The restart relay is also shown in the heater/AC schematic, but actually appears twice, I think. Here is another link to what I am looking at:
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/ISUZU%20TROOPER%20FORUM/94starterwire2.g- - if/page/photo.html#pic
For some reason I cannot get the address to post correctly, the .gif is split up. Try to copy and paste into address box and delete the space and hyphen.
I just cannot wrap my head around where else the blower could get power if not through the blower relay and restart relay. Could the anti theft controller be holding the restart relay on? Maybe someone else will offer an opinion. Good luck.
See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com
http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/ISUZU TROOPER FORUM
to something like http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/isuzutrooper -No spaces.
Will previous photo links still take a user to the right place?
Links regarding alternator/blower motor/restart relay
i was driving last night, when the engine sputtered and died. i let it sit for the night, then checked it out this morning. when you turn the key, the starter kicks in, but the engine wouldnt start. i replaced the fuel filter, since it was an easy cheap thing that needed done anyways.
after replacing the filter, i tried starting the car. i cranked it several times, for about ten to twenty seconds, to try and make sure the gas lines were full.
it was trying to start, but then, i turned the ignition off, removed the key, and heard a weird noise....
it sounded like a vacuum at a car wash. the only way i could get it off was to disconnect the battery. the sound is coming from the front, bottom drivers side of the engine, and i need to know what to do.....
I have heard a leaky Intake Manifold Gasket change is a medium to complex difficulty job, I would reccommend a professional to work on it once it is confirmed. Hope this helps. Check the Transmission Oil level and condition as well.
As to your noise, I can't think of what might be making a noise that does not stop without unhooking the battery. That does not sound like a vacuum leak. Are you sure about the location of the noise? the anti lock brake unit if equipped will cycle periodically but not constantly. When you reconnect the battery, does the noise start up, or only when you try to start the trupr? The fuel pump does make some noise, but should not be running constantly unless the trupr is running. The pump is mounted in the fuel tank in the rear of the vehicle. Hear anything back there? Good idea to have someone listen when you turn the key to on to make sure it is kicking on and off properly. Let us know.
Thanks for your input. It was the alternator. I took it out and took a jumper to the main connection and was getting 12 volts across the body and the L plug. I took it to an alternator shop they checked one out of the box to compare. That's not suppose to happen. And explains why my battery was being drained. New alternator fixed the whole thing!
My instrument panel (oil, temp, and gas gauge)doesn't read anything. "E" on gas when the tank is full, no temp reading and no oil pressure. The panel is getting electricity and the gauges check out ok. Truck runs fine for it's age and miles.
Where can I get a decent manual that goes into detail? Is there an online source? Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks for your help.
My PS is leaky but not so bad that I want to change it yet. As for the door locks, do you mean that the key won't open the door at all, or that when you use the key the drivers door will unlock but not the rest of the power lock doors in the Trupr. The rear door is also keyed and has power locks, does it work? Perhaps this forum can supply more help once we know the particulars of the problem. Good Luck.
Some public libraries (Seattle for instance) subscribe to Alldata, so check with your local reference librarian too.
Thanks. I'm tracking down each sensor, now. Temp gauge is up and working. Now to find the gas and oil sensors.l
Thanks for the Alldata intel.
If lubricant and patience does not work, then the inner door panel can be removed to see if there is something else physically keeping the lock from turning, such as a rod, frozen latch lever, or frozen power door lock module.
The timing belt is very important. There is no easy way to check it short of removing the timing belt covers to look at it. If you decide to do that, you may as well plan on changing the belt and any other parts that may look worn, as removing the cover is a lot of work. I guess you will have to use your best judgement on what will work for you. IS there a dealer ID anywhere on the trupr that you might call to find a service history using the VIN, or a former owner to contact? Good luck.
any ideas where i can get a replacement
Thanks for the help.