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Comments
-mike
Does the circuit handle the extra load okay. What did you do, splice the wires? What is the relay that is sold with these horns?
When you say behind the firewall, do you mean mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment-passenger side. That is where I see a round tin looking device with two wires that is probably a horn. Also, there are extra holes on a bracket there that look like they could be used for mounting and additional horn.
air-horn compressor connected to the hella relay the trigger wire of the hella relay (low amperage) went to the horn relay under the hood on the pass side, the power side of the hella relay went to the battery and the ground got grounded to the body. This system blows both the stock horns and the air-horns when I hit my horn buttons. Also I can have it un-installed in about 1/2hr. or less if in the future I get some kind of electrical problem and it needs to visit a dealer.
-mike
I see what you did in terms of going into the box (what is that connection--the horn relay?) and hooking up to the + battery. The images on the net are hard for me to see. I see a red line running along the firewall. Is that hooked up to something on the back of the firewall or does that come up to the box and the terminal. Sorry for being dense on that.
I guess I would rather do a simple swap of horns if that were possible, but I could use your method also.
I should write this up with some better pics for the website...
-mike
Funny that you mention that you like the "coverless" look. To my eye, the spare tire cover is a little flashy. Also, I noticed shortly after delivery that my tire cover is ripped about 2" beyond the flexible cutout. I'm not looking forward to debating the dealer over this (and the longer I put it off, the harder it will be to convince the dealer that the cover was delivered ripped).
A neighbor, a few blocks away, has the same color Trooper. When I saw that their tire cover was gone and they had the spare mounted on an oem wheel, I figured they had the same idea and I thought it looked pretty good. Turned out that they merely had a flat and the spare was returned to normal after a day or two.
I'd like to find a solid insert for the tire like on the Range Rovers.
-mike
Partial to the 5-spoke wheel, I traded my mesh wheels for a set of 5-spokes. I think the exposed 5-spoke wheel gives a great look, kind of like the Land Rover. (At least I think it's the Land Rover. Could be one of the other ones.) Of course, if you don't have a matching 5th wheel, I would leave the cover on or purchase a 5th wheel.
I had the cover for sale for best offer, but then I realized that it would cost over $350 to replace it, including the letters and painting. So it now my mica red cover sits in the corner of the basement, waiting for the day that I sell the Trooper, if ever.
-Ken
My trooper is also mica red. How does it look without the cover? Considering purchasing a 5th wheel for the spare. Does anyone know if that web site mentioned for other parts would be a good source for the wheel?
Islander
-mike
Is this swaybar bushing job something that somebody with minimal basic mechanical understanding can handle? I'm trying to learn more about my Trooper so I can do more of the maintenance stuff myself, but so far all I've done is change the oil (10 times), change the TOD fluid (twice), and install Isuzu black side steps.
Also, is the swaybar bushing upgrade worthwhile even if I'm not planning to upgrade from the crap OEM shocks? I'd rather not spend even $200 on new shocks because a) it's 200 bucks and b) I feel the Trooper rides and handles just fine as it is. Mine's a 98 with 42,900 miles.
-mike
patpending, if I was you I would sell your hard cover for a couple hundred bucks now and not worry about it. You might never sell your Trooper, and even if you do it won't be the end of the world if you don't have one to include with the vehicle. Maybe the buyer won't even like it.
I think this Red Rock Mica is the predecessor of the current Mica Red.
I have read a previous post that included the JC Whitney part numbers. However those numbers were for a 95 Trooper which I think has different size sway bars. So, just finding the parts for a 1999 has proven a stumbling block for me.
http://www.800wheels.com/cart/Isuzu_Trooper_Aluminum_Alloy_Wheels_and_Rims.htm
Hey Paisan, can your buddy get one of those Holden Jackaroo hoods w/scoop? I've inquired through American Isuzu and St.Charles, both said they don't have access to overseas inventory.
-mike
Bluedevils- The offer for the cover was only $100, which I was entertaining until I found how expensive a replacement would be. I would probably sell it for $200 or so, but at that price most people who would require having it shipped (i.e., anyone not near northern VA) would find it cost prohibitive.
Speaking of spare auto parts, I found a source from a fellow gearhead in the office:
http://copartfinder.com/
Type in your area, the make year and model of your vehicle, and it will give a listing of junkyards that have such a vehicle. Pictures too.
-Ken
-PP
>that a reason that a lot of people in his club
>do not prefere poly bushings is a very annoying
>inherent SQUEEK that develops once the poly
>lubricant is gone. Has anyone here experienced
>that yet?
Not yet, but I've only had mine on for about 3 months. I lubricated them heavily with the provided lube, and kept a little in case they needed re-doing. Right after I got the Trooper 2 years ago, the stock bushings began to squeak every time I hit a bump right after my first round of off-road driving. A good cleaning and some lube helped a lot, but the squeak kept coming back after the bushing got dirty & dry again. Maybe Corvettes are more prone to the squeak due to their very tight suspension? I hope so, but I guess I haven't had mine long enough to really know yet.
Pat.
On their website http://www.suspension.com/tips.htm? Energy Suspension claims their new bushings don't have that problem. They also detail a fix for the older style bushings.
FYI they only list Trooper applications for 7/87 - 93.
Also, thanks pat pending for the great used car parts site.
There are several sources out there but I got my parts from JC Whitney's on-line catalog (BTW, these bushings DO fit my 2000 S):
1- Bushings For 1" Diam. Sway Bars (front)
Sku #: 88ZX7546P with small A type brackets
Unit Price: $9.95 + shiping
2- Bushings For 3/4" Diam. Sway Bars (rear)
Sku #: 88ZX7540T with small A type brackets
Unit Price: $9.95 + shipping
3- Eight 1/4" fairly thick washers. Do NOT use the stock metal brackets. They won't fit, use the new ones in the kit. Since they are universal in size, the washers will give you a better seat for the lockwashers and nuts/bolts.
Tools:
1- 3/8" ratchet
2- 12mm socket
3- 6" extension to use on the rear bushings, they are up there!
4- Flat tip screw driver, to pry the busings from the bolts in the front.
5- A rag, that darn grease is a pain to get off your hands.
FRONT BUSHINGS
1- Get under the truck and locate the front sway bar bushings. From under the front you get the best angle unless you are a practicing contortionist. The only thing attaching them to the sway bar are two nuts. Remove them using the 12mm socket/ratchet.
2- Once the nuts are off, CAREFULLY pry the metal bracket from the two bolts taking care not to foul the stock rubber bushings. Once the bracket is off (it simply slides off the bushing) slip the bushing off the sway bar by spreading it just enought to get it off the bar. Take note which way the split on the bushing is facing. Save ALL your hardware.
3- Open the grease tube that came with the kit and generously lube the inside of the new poly bushing and lightly coat the outside. Now's the time to use that rag. Clean your hands then use the rag to clean the part of the bar that will come in contact with the bushing. Now slip the bushing onto the sway bar (with the split facing the way the old bushing's did) onto the same spot the old bushing sat on.
4- Slide the new bracket over the bushing and slip the new washers and the stock lockwashers over the bolts and thread the nuts a couple of turns onto each bolt.
5-Center the bracket on the bolts and tighten the nuts down alternating about every 5 turns, this prevents you from pinching the bushing and promotes better, more evenly distributed seating. Don't overtighten the nuts or you'll find yourself in a heap of trouble if you break the bolts. Repeat on the other side and you're done. If you are slow it should take you 15 minutes per bushing.
REAR BUSHINGS
1- Get at them from the rear, you have to slide your body past the axle to get to these guys. They can be found way up there right next to the top of your Rancho 9000s or OME shocks. These guys are held on by bolts instead of nuts. Use the 6" extension on your ratchet to get to them. Once you undo the bolts follow the same prep and replacement procedure as with the front bushings. There is no need to use the screw driver here. These should take the baboon about ten minutes per to change. Remember to keep the old bushings and brackets in a safe place, you never know. Now go out and enjoy less lean!
Islander
-mike
Islander
I have a question for those of you who installed the Polk 4" speakers in the rear. How much trouble do you think it would be to install the Polk 502, 5" inch speakers back there? Any feedback will be appreciated.
Polks: The hole for the rear speakers in my Trooper S (don't know about the LS or Limited) is made for 4" speakers. The Polk 402s were a perfect fit. At the very least you would need to drill new holes, maybe snip some sheetmetal to slip the 5" speakers in there. So I ask you: do you feel lucky, punk? . Depth of the speaker should be no problem, though.
Islander
ALso updating the ranch 9000s are wonderful after about 1000 miles. My next task is the poly bushings.
This has been a very helpful site.
-mike
It took me about 30 minutes to do as a one-man job. Fortunately I had a good LONG breaker bar to free the 4 existing bolts which have to be removed and reinstalled with the guard in place.
I like the looks of the unit. It seems a quality item to me. Whether it will keep my Trooper from being a major money pit in a rear-end collision I hope I never find out.
My only complaint was that it took much longer than promised for delivery. After talking to both the vendor and the manufacturer I am convinced that such delay will likely not happen to future
customers.
The link below also has an excellent picture.
For what it is worth, when I accessed the vendor's site directly I got a $199.95 price whereas the link below through Yahoo yields a $119.95 price. I paid the later price and $11 for shipping (with no hassle about the higher price) using their 888 number.
http://store.yahoo.com/autoaccessory/trooperrearfl.html
Actually the above is a copy of the post I made on another board before I found this one. I am still very happy with this purchase and I thought I would repost my experiences here.
Personally, I would not mess with the Rancho 9000s. These OMEs (combined with the Sway-A-Way torsion bars and OME coil springs) were unbelievably nice and my vehicle was TOTALLY under complete control at any speed over any road surface - this setup really eats up the bad roads. This vehicle/suspension combination now rates as the 2nd best matched setup I've owned - only my Euro-spec '86 BMW M-5 was better.
I had approximately 700 lbs of passengers and cargo in the vehicle for this road trip. It was so interesting to watch other vehicles just ahead or besides me going over the road and bouncing around, and/or completely ill-suited for the load they were carrying - back ends sagging, etc. Most of my traveling was at 80-85 mph, occasionally 90, except when my wife was driving (then about 70). I'm going to say it one more time: the OMEs are THE way to go.
Oil: some of you might be happy to know that I used about 3/4 of a liter bottle in those 3040 miles. I believe this is reasonable, and not much different from what I experience with my '92 Landcruiser. I use Mobil 1 10w-30; I had about 2000 miles on the oil when I left and had just put in a new, clean filter for the trip. Please note this trip was during normal 50-60 degree temps most the way; summer time usage may be a bit higher. My '99 Trooper now has 32185 miles on it.
Thanks again to everyone for all the useful and interesting info on this forum! Later.