Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories

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Comments

  • joel52joel52 Member Posts: 5
    I took the spare tire cover off and prefer it that way. Now I am considering puchasing a 5th wheel to match the other 4 (2000 Trooper S, 5 spoke wheel). I am checking the sites noted in forum, but wonder if soneone has replaced there original wheels and is looking to sell. Also, does anyone know if the center hub of this wheel fits over the center of the spare tire bracket?
  • ilikeikeilikeike Member Posts: 19
    Joel,
    You read my mind. There must be someone who's replaced their stock wheels and has them sitting in their garage. If not, the $200 deal at 800wheels.com looks like the next best bet. My neighbor (also a 2000 model) had his aluminum wheel on his spare tire bracket, so it must fit.
    Koert
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe someone on here was going to get the bumper guard until they read on the manufacturer's site that it was only for cosmetic purposes, and didn't provide any protection. Also in a rear end collision, I doubt that it would protect anything since the tire would still get hit before the bumper guard. Also if someone rear-ends you, it's their fault not yours :) Anyway if you can get some pics of it on your truck it would be cool.

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    I think that was arktrooper. Where has he been?
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Central, I looked at that WAAG web site. Is that mounted at the hitch mounting points?
  • mtrionfomtrionfo Member Posts: 20
    Bluedevils - I have a suggestion regarding upgrade of your rear speakers. Last year I installed Polk 602's in the doors and 402's in the rear. I am VERY happy with the 602's but the 402's were a disappoinment. They had no noticeable bass response and were actually slightly lower in comparative volume than the stock paper speakers. But, since they had greater clarity and the fronts do most of the work anyway, I left them installed.

    Recently a 98 Trooper owner over at VMAG (Mike in FLA) described how he had installed Alpine 5.25 inch speakers in the rear pillars of his Trooper simply by trimming some of the metal away from the Alpine's mounting tabs. I went to Circuit City and bought Alpine 1329's for $57 on sale. These are 5.25 inch coaxials. They did not fit the mounting holes in 95, but I decided to drill the new holes since everything would disappear behind the stock speaker grill. After drilling the new screw holes the speakers dropped right into the cutouts in the pillars.

    I could not believe the difference in sound. (I left one 402 installed and put in one Alpine to test.) The 402 sounded like a tinny AM radio in comparison. With both Alpine's installed the overall volume is much higher and there is now decent bass coming from the rear pillars.

    Even though your first inclination is to not drill the holes, it is a five minute procedure for each side and looks completely stock since it all fits behind the stock grills. More importantly, the improvement in sound quality is well worth it. It is likely that you will have similar results going to the larger Polk 502's (if you haven't returned them already).

    Regards, Marty
    95 Trooper LS
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    I've been following your post's on the OME'S.
    Can you clarify some things for me, I too have a 99/auto.

    1.)Did you put coils on to get the 1-1/2" lift?
    2.)Sway Bars to get lift or stiffness?

    So far you've got me sold on the shocks, it sounds like the OME's do what Bilstiens do for other vehicles. I'm not sure if I need the coils
    for my usage. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Please clarify, where were the holes drilled, in the speaker flange or in the pillar where you mount the speaker? No other cutting to enlarge the hole was necessary? And to confirm, it fit under the grill without modifying the grill in any way?

    This is exciting, I'm sure a 5.25" would be better than a 4" if it can be done without extensive cutting...
  • mtrionfomtrionfo Member Posts: 20
    SDC2 - The holes to be drilled are new screw holes in the pillar. (You actually drill thru some thin plastic and then the metal pillar.) The screw holes on my 95 are 4.5 inches apart to accommodate the stock speakers, but the Alpines require holes 5.25 inches apart. I drilled the new holes at roughly the 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock positions to orient the Alpine speaker correctly. I think I used a 1/8 inch bit to suit the small screws included with the Alpines.

    You do NOT have to modify the size of the cutout to fit the speaker itself. It fits fine with respect to both diameter and depth. And yes, it all fits beneath the stock speaker grill.

    It is a very easy job but makes a huge difference in sound. I can't believe I listened to those wimpy 4-inch speakers for so long! And for the price (under $60) the Alpines are a bargain compared to the $79 Polk 402's.

    Rgds, Marty
    95 Trooper LS
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Now that the weather is finally warming up, I am ready to start speaker upgrades. I was leery of trying to pop the grills off when it was too cold, didn't want to break them.

    I'm glad I saw your post before buying 4" speakers for the rear!
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    Gpm5 I am sorry I do not know if that is where the hitch also mounts as I do not have a hitch. It does mount securely to the frame so it very possibly could use the same mounting holes and/or space. I would think someone at WAAG would have a pretty good handle on the likelihood of such problems.

    As to preventing damage in a rear-end collision, it likely won't do much but every little bit helps is my theory. I think its other main purpose is to prevent parking dings where someone taps the plastic bumper. I might also save the day off-road sometime when a tall rock springs up out of nowhere during a late-night 3-point turn.
  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    Marty-
    Thanks for your review and how to on the Polk 502's. I noticed a big improvement when I upgraded all speakers to Clarion 2 ways, but like others noticed the rears don't fill the space with as much sound as the fronts. I look forward to trying the 502's with my Alpine CD Player.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Marty, that's excellent info. I kinda figured it would be that easy but still didn't feel like doing it. Your 10 minute job would be about an hour and lots of frustration for me, though I would probably end up accomplishing the same goal.

    In the last month or so I bought some Polk dx4 speakers for the rear of my 98 Trooper. I probably should have been ambitious and gone with a larger speaker back there, but I was feeling lazy and when somebody mentioned here that he had a used pair in great shape for sale, I jumped at the chance.

    I suppose I might upgrade in the future, but it would be hard convincing my wife to let me do it...
  • gls2gls2 Member Posts: 10
    I got my 98 Rodeo LS in Sept of 97, and that day off went the ugly tire cover!!!
    I think they look better without them.
  • mtrionfomtrionfo Member Posts: 20
    DukTrooper - Just for clarification, the larger 5.25 inch speakers I installed in the rear pillars are Alpine 1329 coaxials, replacing the Polk 402's I had been using. I mentioned the Polk 502's (5-inch speakers) because that is the model Bluedevils test fit in his Trooper. The location of new screw holes for Polk 502's is likely to be slightly different from the Alpines, but I would fully expect them to install within the dimensions of the stock speaker grills.

    Bottom line is that your Trooper's audio will benefit from a larger speaker back there, whether 5-inch or 5.25 inch, Alpine, Polk or other.

    Good luck, Marty
    95 Trooper LS
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I just did the math, and a 5" speaker has over 50% more surface area than a 4" speaker...and a 5.25" is about 72% more than a 4"!
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    I just finished installing Polk 5" 501's in the rear pillars. They fit using the EXISTING holes and screws - i.e. no modification is necessary. They really don't seem any bigger than the factory speakers but they sure sound better.

    I would have also installed the 602's in the front but the folks at Crutchfield only sent one set of adapter plugs with the speakers. That being said Crutchfield seems like a worthwhile place. They have great technical support, good prices, they include the adapters at no charge which makes installation a snap and would otherwise cost an extra $5 per pair at most places. So they screw up a shipment here and there. They promised to make it right and I'm only waiting another couple of days. I can easily live with that.
  • mtrionfomtrionfo Member Posts: 20
    We sure are learning a lot about which speakers fit in the back of a Trooper! After reading Central's post I was confused about Polk 501's vs. 502's. A handy Crutchfield catalog straightened me right out:

    - The Polk 402a (4-inch) and Polk 501a (5-inch) will both fit the rear pillar with no mods required whatsoever. Just drop in and screw 'em down.

    - The Polk 502a, which is a 5.25-inch speaker, will require drilling four new screw holes. Same for the Alpine 1329, which is also a 5.25-inch speaker.

    Central indicates that the Polk 501 (5-inch) is a significant improvement over stock 4-inch paper speaker. I would agree. Having used the Polk 402a (4-inch) for six months and now recently upgrading to the Alpine 1329 (5.25 inch) I can say that in this instance bigger is definitely better.

    Rgds, Marty
    95 Trooper LS
  • catmanducatmandu Member Posts: 53
    Great news for the great unwashed I found a travel mug that fits (both of them) , in the small cup holders in the front seat area. I bought them (2 for 10.00) at walgreens. They are stainless steel and are slim enough to both fit at the same time. I filed one forth inch off the handles and they slide in perfect. What a great day. Am going skiing in Colorado for two weeks, will check posts for glorious reviews when we return.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've been busy the past few weeks, but I plan on gathering all this info and putting it on http://isuzu-suvs.com sometime next week.


    -mike

  • vivayovivayo Member Posts: 32
    We finally had weather that was warm enough (for a day or two) to open the windows. I noticed that opening the window above about 35 mph (60 mph) makes for a lot of wind buffeting. Closing it enough to stop the excess wind brings on a whistling sound. I know how to solve this. I put those smoke-colored wind deflectors on my pickup when I bought it a few years ago, and they work like a charm.
    I checked around and found them for my Trooper at www.autobarn.com. The ones I ordered were part # 94015 (listed under the Wind Deflector section). The web listing says they fit 92-00 Troopers, but they also fit my '01 LS. The instructions were more than just the typical generic junk. These actually explain how to mount them on the Trooper.
    - Pop off the small triangular trim piece inside the door that holds the tweeter and also covers up the three 10mm bolts that hold the mirror in place. I popped the trim off with my fingers - just pressed forward on the vertical side and pulled out slightly. It came right off. One of the bolts is covered up with adhesive-backed foam, but the 10mm socket slipped right on it and worked okay.
    - Loosen the bolts a few turns until the deflector fits between the rubber gasket and the rubber window channel. You don't need (or want) to take the bolts all the way out. Once the deflectors are in place, tighten the three bolts and snap the trim back in place. Total of about 20 mins to do all four doors.
    - Just a hint - make sure to test fit and know exactly where you're gonna stick them before you expose the adhesive. Oh yeah, wipe down the area where you'll attach them with the supplied alcohol wipes. Also, keep an eye to aligning the front and rear door deflectors on each side of the vehicle so that they wind up at the same height. It looks a lot better that way. I know, because I got the passenger side rear door deflector about 1/4" higher than the front door. Oh well, my wife sees it but I don't ;-)
    - Only tool needed is something to loosen and re-tighten the mirrors. A 10mm socket on either a ratchet drive or socket handle works fine. Once exposed, there's nothing that limits access to the bolt heads, so you could also use an adjustable wrench (crescent type) or even a large phillips head screwdriver, as the bolts are also phillips slotted.
    Total damage was $52.95. They have a special going that gives free shipping on orders over $50. I ordered last Wednesday and got them (via UPS 3-day) on Monday.
    When I put them on my pickup, I worried about how long the adhesive would last. I could just imagine one of them falling off and then it would look like @#&^%#. Well, next month will make 7 years and they are still firmly in place.
    HTH,
    Charlie
    P.S. Hope this looks okay - spell check messed it up and I've tried to edit it after posting. Any mistakes are NOT mine ;-)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Do you mind if I snag that writeup for http://isuzu-suvs.com ? Also I may try tightening my driver's mirror.


    -mike

  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    I too had some concerns that they would come off taking heaven only knows how much paint with them. I put them on my old Pathfinder and after about 1 year they still seem fine. In fact, I was just in the process of looking for some for my Trooper so I was very glad to hear of your years of no problems.

    I had checked hotrod-offroad.com and they were $42 and change there but they wanted $10 in shipping. I also plan to check the local Wal-Mart as at the time I got the Pathfinder units they also had ones for the Trooper. If that doesn't work Pep Boys carries such items and will usually special order the models they don't stock as well as match Wal-Mart's price.

    I also appreciate the detailed information about loosening the mirror. If nothing else I will know to allow a little extra time when planning the work.

    Again, thanks for the information.
  • grucelagrucela Member Posts: 19
    Hold the deflector to the window, take a razor blade or knife and trace the triange with it. Then heat the blade, you can cut the piece of, not having to take off the mirror or breaking factory seal
  • vivayovivayo Member Posts: 32
    I thought about doing that, both with my pickup and with the Trooper. My concern was that wind would get under the front end of the deflector (at highway speeds) and eventually pull it loose. That's why I went ahead and loosened the mirrors so as to mount them according to the instructions.
    With the first set still firmly stuck after 7 years, I guess that your approach would be pretty safe, too.
    Charlie
  • islander21islander21 Member Posts: 43
    I exchanged my Polk 4" 402s for the 5.25" 502s for the rear as I could barely hear the 402s. Took 10 minutes to use the template in the 502s' box to mark and drill 8 holes with a 1/8 bit through plastic and metal and hook the speakers up. Much better sound, more bass and I don't need to set the Sony CD player to bias to the rear speakers nearly as much as I did before. Nice upgrade.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    I replaced my (broken) factory bug guard last week with a Lund interceptor. It took 5 minutes and 4 screws to install. It works great. This one is taller, has more hood clearance, and doesn't tap on the fenders like the factory one did. I got up to 80 on the freeway today with no problems. It does flex a little in the middle at higher speed but that doesn't seem to affect anything. Much nicer than the factory model and there's enough clearance to wash and wax behind it. I bought it at Central 4WD for $55.00. Lund has a site where you can look at pictures and check them out.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Does the lund one screw on or is it adhered on? I want to replace my factory one but don't want to adhere anything to the car. Also is there a link where you purchased it?

    -mike
  • trooper2000trooper2000 Member Posts: 2
    Hi ! Everybody..
    I've been doing some research on back up aids for my new Trooper. Have anyone ever installed one ?
    how well it really works? Please,let me know.
    My wife just backed up into a Lexus and cost me 1200 bucks...
    Anyone ever heard about R.O.S.S.( Rostra Obstacle Sensing System )? It seems to be the best system on the market, Somehow; the installation makes me kinda nervous ... Please, help me out if you could.
    thanks
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    I just finished the installation of the 602s in my 1999 Trooper. For other people planning this project here are a few heads ups in addition to the EXCELLENT instructions by Islander21 in post #320.

    The only trick to the spacers is that they are pre-cut for 4 screw holes when the Isuzu design uses 3. I just used an ice pick to punch small holes for the 3 hole layout. In fact this was an overall advantage as the spacers held the screws and themselves in place during the installation.

    I found that the mounting holes in the speakers were about a millimeter off from perfectly aligning with the mounting holes in my door. I had to start the longer screws at a slight angle in order to reach the mounting holes.

    I used the free adapters from Crutchfield so that I could just plug into the factory harness and onto the speaker wiring lugs. These adapters had very tight tolerances requiring quite a bit of pressure to push on to the speakers. Rather than take a chance on pushing too hard on the speakers I first took a small screwdriver and spread open the Crutchfield connector just a tad. This made the connection easier and still very secure. Using the 6" long adapters means I now have an extra 6" of wire behind the speakers. To keep this from flopping around I cable tied it out of the way.

    Again, this was an easy, very doable project. It was just a couple of minutes longer than I thought it would be.
  • islander21islander21 Member Posts: 43
    Gosh, thanks for the kudos! Glad to have been of help. How do your Polks sound compared to the stock speakers?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm working on posting up all the how-to upgrades from here onto http://isuzu-suvs.com hopefully by tomorrow I'll have a ton of how tos in there!


    -mike

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I've updated my site. I have more how-tos, thanks to GPM and Islander. Also updated the gallery with pics of all your trucks!


    http://isuzu-suvs.com


    -mike

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well I had my OMEs and Rancho 9000s installed yesterday. What a difference they made. The shocks are great. Although setting 1 is a bit too soft for my liking, it is nice on the interstate. I have em set at 3f/3r now and they are doing well. The OMEs gave me about 1-2" of lift and I had the front torsen bars cranked 4 turns to level it out. The adjustability makes a big difference. A worthwile upgrade, this truck rides far better than stock now.

    -mike
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    I noticed a big side-by-side improvement in the 501s versus the original back speakers. I was somewhat disappointed by the 602s as I found the side-by-side comparison to be more of a moderate improvement.

    I think when I upgrade the basic, stock cassette/tuner I will be more able to get the most out of both sets of speakers. In any event, I am much more satisfied with the post upgrade sounds. I also suspect these speakers will last much longer than the factory ones.
  • islander21islander21 Member Posts: 43
    Yep, you'll hear an immediate improvement with an upgraded unit and a nice CD. I could not drive the stock speakers worth a farthing with the Sony CD player I purchased, but the 602s can handle all the volume and bass my ears can take and then some. The Polks are well built and probably will last the life of your truck. Best of luck.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    Paisan,


      Here's the link to the shop where I got my Lund Interceptor bug guard (Central 4WD). There's also a picture there. It attaches under the lip of the hood with 4 screws - same ones the factory guard uses. They have it on sale right now for $49.99.


      Also, how are the Rancho's and EMU springs doing with the body roll? Are you cornering a little flatter now? Does the ride feel more controlled? How much firmer is it? Like does it rattle your teeth going over a small bump? I'm thinking about the same setup - planning to start with shocks first and working from there.


    http://www.central4wd.com/gocart/itemdetail.asp?ID=743

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The Ranchos are good. I have em set on 3/3 and they are firm yet much better riding than stock. Much less jarring, but firmer flatter feel. I'm gonna crank em up to 4/4 and see how they do over the weekend. The rear springs really help as well. I'll know better how the springs help when I put the boat trailer on this summer. The springs help with the lean more than the shocks do IMHO. I also want to do the sway bars to take some of the lean out of it.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    O.K. I'm going to go for the upgrade, for now srings, shocks, a couple of turns on the torsion bars to level it out. I'm typically finding the springs and shocks for around $65.00/ea through all of your reference sites. I just wanted to clarify P/N's before I start calling for prices and shipping costs.
    The shocks are N15/N65 and the springs are OME912?

    Also, what are you guys paying for installation on the springs. I'm getting quotes of $15.00/ea. for shocks, is that in the ballpark?

    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I paid $150 total for the 4 shocks and rear springs + the torsion bars cranked up 4 turns. I'm in NY so it should be a bit cheaper elsewhere. $15/shock is downright cheap IMHO.

    -mike
  • twnisbetttwnisbett Member Posts: 11
    Hi. I have a '92 Trooper LS, and the seats don't have enough lumbar support. Do the newer Troopers have a lumbar support? If so, I could replace the seats. Or, does anyone know of a good solution? I tried buying one of those lumbar-pillows, and it was too thick. I drive long trips (for my job) quite often, so this is really a "pain in the back!"

    Thanks.
  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    I paid $90 to have my OME springs put in by 4 Wheel Parts, who charges $18/shock...not too bad considering they know what they're doing.

    Let me know if you find a better price on OME shocks....last time I checked 4 Wheel Parts online had them for 60.99 each.
  • sahara111sahara111 Member Posts: 51
    I also bought my OME shocks thru 4 Wheel Parts. One set was 60.99 each, the other set 62.99 each (I think), plus a shipping charge for the 4.

    They have also installed my torsion bars and rear OME coils. They also did installation work on my Toyota LC. So far I've been very happy with them and will continue to go back there.

    You will LOVE the OME shocks - they are truly outstanding. They ride easy when slow going over rough stuff, then ride perfect at 85mph on bad highways - all due to the excellent valving and robust workmanship. Just wait and see!
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    I have qoutes coming from ARB, Tenessee off-road and 4 Wheel parts. So far Tenessee has answered within in hour of my request coils: $64.95/ea., shocks: $59.95/ea. and shipping $35.00 for a grand total of $404.70 not bad.

    If 4 Wheel parts comes close, I'll go for that. They quoted me $15.00 per shock for installation and said they need to look at the vehicle to determine how much the coils would be.

    Does anyone know @ how much one full turn on the torsion bars lift it. My intension is to lift it to the max. but maintain factory alignment.

    I'll let you know when I get the other quotes.
  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    Be careful not to overdo at first. I found that one full 360 degree turn raised it about 1/4". Make sure you have a tape measure and measure front top of alum. wheel to bottom of fender flare on all 4 wheels before and after adjustments. It's easy to overcrank;you may want to adjust, drive around block, then remeasure as there is some settling that will occur.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I would start with 6 turns and see how it settles in for a few days, then fine tune. If you have something heavy up front, such as a winch, you may need around 10 turns.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I only went 4 turns and it is pretty level. Maybe my hitch and crap in the trunk effect the rear level.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    Well, just got an answer from 4 Wheel Parts.
    Here's the exact E-mail:

    Hello
    We don't carry the OME suspension components anymore but they would be $59.95 each if you would want us to order them.

    Please let us know if you find a better price elsewhere, We wont be undersold!!!!
    !!!NO REASONABLE OFFER REFUSED!!!

    If I can be of any further assistance feel free to call toll free 877-474-4821 ext. 5616
    Ray Sanchez.

    With an attitude like that, I think we have a winner here! Thanks to all for the lead and advice on the torsion bar adjustment.
  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    For those of you who are cranking your torsion bars up--keep in mind that you are not changing the spring rate, only the ride height. If you install firmer springs in the rear, you will be altering the spring dynamics of the Trooper because you would have relatively stiff rear springs and relatively soft front springs. Wouldn't that lead to an increased possibility of oversteer?

    I am speaking from a position of no experience here, so I might be wrong. However, I believe that it would be better to install upgraded torsion bars along with the springs. That would properly balance the front and rear spring rates.

    I am interested in hearing from those of you who have only upgraded the rear springs. Has your handling suffered?

    Tom
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    Isn't it about the time of year when Rancho oftentimes offers a buy 3 get 1 free sale? Or, am I just doing some wishful thinking?
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