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Comments
I still wonder whether I was better off on a $28,449 2005 instead of a $29,008 2006. Other than a few bells and whistles, the 06 is identical to the 05, right? And I assume 1 year of depreciation isn't worth the added amount I paid... Perhaps I made a poor decision there. Oh well.
I still think you can do better than 29000, why don’t you want to try upstate NY?
mike
29,000 seems like a decent price on a 2006 EX-L. Not saying you couldn't do better, but from what I've read here and experienced in my own search, its pretty good. Maybe you could save a few hundred dollars by finding a better offer, but not likely $1000 or more.
To answer your questions
1. I didnot get any extra options , I just took EX with leather and DVD(Model :EXL RES)
2. No extras given by dealer.
3. Saten Island, NY
They gave be a fair price but tried to force me in a offer where I get high interest rate(7%) with a condition not to pre-pay with in 18 months. I managed to remove the pre-pay condition on loan and planning to pay off loan as early as possible.
mike
Someone posted once that the LXs did not have the roof rack rails for the same reason. (Although I could have seen the roof rack rails being left off to keep the cost down.)
I sent out request via internet car buying websites. But they always forwarded my requests to the same 2-3 dealers.
Thanks.
First, I doubt if dealerships are as monolithic as our everyday offices... who picks the fax and does what with it, is all uncontrolled. Chances are the hawkish sales guys are simply trashing it... for them it is the sucker that walks in that counts... not the fax guy who may not show up at all.
I'd say, call up the dealership, ask for 'sales manager', not a sales associate. Now talk as if you WILL buy the car, and PUSH.
If you are certain you cant do better, you may like to check out a paid service called carbargains.org. They seem to have a price guarantee that their charge will be paid for. I didnt use them because I could negotiate my 06 EX home delivered at no xtra charge ~ $400 above invoice.
Also, feel free to read my posting a few days ago on why one should not buy a 05 vintage.
Ody Man
One reason dealers may shy away from this is that it puts them on the defensive, you can't BS talk a fax machine plus like e-mail, it offers a permanent record of what transpired, no he said-she said. You're best to wait until you are ready to buy before you try to give the impression you are ready to buy. Availability comes into play here, allocations, scarce if you want a Touring.
If you do go for a sales manager recognize he doesn't want to be a salesman any more. He may brush you off to a hawkish guy in white patent leather buckle shoes named Vince who brings the deal back to him for review. You run the risk of going head to head with the godfather of pricing who will turn down a reasonable offer because you are taking up his precious time. I'm not just rambling, I've lived this scenario... and pay special attention to their shoes, they define their role. You may want to consider asking the internet sales manager to take a snapshot of their shoes for you too, LOL.
- Touring now comes with DVD std, NAVI is option
- 5yr 60K mile powetrain warranty, 05 had 3/36
- $300 more (why buy an '05?)
- Destination went up slightly ($35?)
- Engine HP rating went from 255 to 244 only because of the criteria and methods used for testing, this is the same exact engine is in both MY's, no change!
Feel free to amend this list as I'm sure I forgot something. Note that all 2005 & 2006 EX-L Ody's and above have the VTEC 20C/28H rated V-6 that becomes and 3-fwd cyl engine when cruising or decelerating engine. This doesn't shut off at 80 like someone posted but it will not go into ECO mode until it warms up a minute or two.
I live in DC area looking for 06 EXL-RES model. Thanks for the info. My email address is desixp-at-gmail.com
Thanks,
Vasu
1. Promise yourself the following:
- Not to assume 'van is short in supply' and people are lining up to pick up the vehicle. This defeatist attitude will set you up for paying up more.
- Use caution if a friend, coworker, or neighbor, 'knows' someone in dealership and can get you a good price. Doesn't hurt to know, but then, I think some of these well-meaning folks suffer from a variant of 'Stockholm Syndrome,' where if they know someone at the dealership, they feel compelled to direct traffic.
- The guy at the other end (dealership) WILL wring out YOUR money to maximum extent. Courteous or not.
- Like against Casinos, you cant win, but you can limit perceived loss. You cant win, because they can size you up better than you can size them up.
- Try not to low ball unrealistically, you can be easily brushed aside.
- Dont even think sticker, unless you wish to get a Darwin Award (this award is given to those whose IQ justifies their demise)
2. Use auto referral service like BJ's, Costco, Sam's Club
You dont have to be a member of these clubs if you can do it smartly - find a friend to get you a list of 'participating dealer.' Do join when you are ready.
Start from farthest away (say 250 mi), and then save the nearest for the last. Push the nearest for a better quote. Dont buy into the phrase 'negotiated price.' Make sure you join the club and do this formally once you are ready to do business.
This does two things - gets you a below MSRP baseline without pow-wow, and perhaps, someone to complain should something go sour.
KEY: Reach the contact listed, NOT a helpful substitute sales associate
Try other dealers via normal internet email (skirting the club ones).
3. Protect your identity
Consider using a legally acceptable alias. If you run into a lowball reject, you can call in again under your usual name. Oh heck, play mind games with them!
Here are some key points:
- When you call, use a single-call caller ID block (its free, check local phone company for * number, may not work for a Dealer 800 number). Or use non-cell, non-home, non-work phone. Consider a set of different calling cards. Do realize, when the operator transfers, your caller ID is flashed at agents desk.
- Sign up for temperory emails
- DO not select color or options upfront unless you are ready to get your final bid.
4. Some Observations:
It seems the dealership is a house divided. There are sales agents and then there are their managers. Do not let a sales agent answer your call meant for internet manager. If you do, here is what may happen - agent will take your call, promise
to call back with quote, and then tell sweetly that they cant do it. Chances are,
he never even went to any Manager.
From his perspective, a car in the lot of any shade, is a shot in the arm to make a sale to the next 'sucker' that walks in. A car flagged out as sold, or in transit, is his loss.
Sales Managers are looking for bottom line (price paid - secretive dealer cost) while agents are looking to cross a hurdle, say $800 above invoice (a guess) before a sliding scale commission kicks in.
However, be prepared to deal with a sales agent at instance of sales Manager.
5. Ditch that notion - Last years' Model is a Good Deal
You cant win fiscally. If a vehicle depreciates 10% first year, you would need to negotiate about $2500-$3000 off 2006 offer. If your 2006 target were $500-$1000 above invoice, you would be sufficiently near or below to dealer cost. Chances are, the dealer would rather sell it to the next sucker that walks in at $1000 below invoice.
Plan to keep it for 10yrs? Still a risk. Should another car total your vehicle in the next few years, their insurance will hand you actual car value (ACV). You may be left holding the bag.
Final Comments:
Hope some of you find this useful. This is a hop on - hop off type forum. Now that I have the vehicle, I'll bow out in a week or so. I may, however, hang around by the warranty forum though...
Meanwhile... Go get 'em!!!
MSG for HOST: Should you find this writeup useful, feel free to repost at times for the benefit of the Members. Thanks for keeping us in line, and we appreciate your volunteer effort.
Ody_Man
You da' man! Thanks for posting these insightful hints. I had already implemented most of them on my own when I bought our '06 Touring R&N last week after a multi-media haggling for several more. I never thought to sum them up as you did and I'm sure they'll live on. Hope you stick around or at least drop in regularly. FYI, I suffer from 'Stockholm Syndrome' and especially agree with your ever shrinking radius reduction pricing plan, saving local dealers for last. Unfortunately for our locals, they lost out by over a grand (more like $2K) to an Atlanta dealer who recognized they had to be competitive to my biz.
Dave
This compares the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price, Dealer Invoice Price, and Consumer Reports Wholesale Price (CRWP); I paid $12 for this info. The CRWP is the suggested place to start when negotiating. They suggest you should be able to buy a vehicle at 4 to 8 percent above CRWP, good luck doing so on any Odyssey locally as I too am in NW FL. This CRWP is significantly below Edmunds pricing (pre-T&T) that is based on actual transactions so obviously dealers are making a healthy profit but do offer some discount. Your model choice is one of the most popular so you should have less trouble finding one than I did on a Touring R&N.
Note: All prices quoted include $550 destination but don't include any dealer prep fees, usually around $400.
Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of EX w/ Leather RES and Navi (R&N), Manufacturer Code RL3875KW, is $34,845.
Dealer Invoice Price for an EX/L R&N represents the dealer's maximum cost to acquire the car from the manufacturer at $31,399.
The CRWP includes incentives and holdbacks, nothing cosmic happening on an Odyssey and it's near impossible to delve into this 'overhead' stash, at least on this vehicle. EX/L R&N Invoice Price is $31,399 minus Dealer Holdback of $1,029 equals a total CRWP of $30,370. Four percent ($1,215) and eight percent ($2,430) above this price means theoretically you should be able to buy this vehicle between $31,585 and $32,800 before T&T,. Adding six percent FL tax ($1,968), $400 for those hard to avoid dealer prep fees, $85 for tag, I come up with an eight percent over CRWP Out the Door price of $35,253. If you use four percent over CRWP it comes to $33,965. Your price of $35K is toward the upper end of this range (7%-ish).
To contrast by showing what's really happening, Edmunds pricing is $33,944 (total with options, before T&T) and would represent an OTD price of basically $35,950.
I didn't have success nudging Gary Smith (FWB) or Pensacola Honda much below MSRP (approx $500) on a Touring R&N plus they didn't have what I wanted in stock or inbound and few dealers will swap Tourings. Both kindly rejected the invoice up type approach saying this model is too popular to bargain that way.
Bottom line is from what I come up with, $35K OTD for an '06 EX/L R&N is a good price in the Southeast. At the risk of suffering from 'Stockholm Syndrome' you may want to give the internet managers at Gwinnett Honda, (Honda Mall of GA?) or where I bought mine, Hennessy Honda in Woodstock, GA (Northern Atlanta) a try. When our Touring came in, (about a week), I flew there for $49 (Airtran 7 day adv) and they picked me up at the airport. It was a flawless transaction that I kicked off with Honda site e-mail quote requests from a large radius of dealers, would do it again, no pressure. I wanted to stay local but saved nearly $2K including gas home and got 27 MPG on the 350 mile trip back. Good luck and keep us posted!
Enjoy the hunt, reap the rewards.
This was very helpful. Not many are willing to go to so much detail. We will be sad to see you go.. Haven't bought my Ody yet but this will help getting the best price.
it might be better to let them send you a quote and bargain from there... the flip side might be... your OTD you give them off the bat might be higher then the dealer quote ... if you go first you run that risk....
Total Cost: $29,750.
I figure without extras I could have maybe done minimum of $28,750 since I had an online offer of $28,500 turned down at supposedly a low-cost dealer and because of the other posts here for my area. Pricing the dealer extras online at College Hills without installation came out to be $859. I know dealer cost even installed was less, but this would be a good benchmark.. I used the make an offer function on the dealer website 1 mile from my house and just chose to offer $29,750 because I thought it would save haggling and it did, the dealer accepted. I think with a little more work I could have gone a few hundred lower, but this seems like an o.k. deal to me.
I hope this is helpful to others and am curious about others' opinions of the price paid.
Now, there are two ways to take that. I can be happy, because I got a price that I knew I would be happy with. Or, I can worry that maybe I didn't get the absolute best price possible. I choose the former. This isn't a competition to see who can get the best price. You do the best you can, and in the end, if you can get a price that you are comfortable with and feel is fair based on your research and knowledge of the invoice and the prices being paid in the market, you take it and have a nice day.
So my advice if they insist on asking you for this price is to be honest. Quote one that is not absurd, but that you would be happy to accept. Maybe you'll get it. Then, be happy!
Good luck.
I hope this helps.
I asked each dealer for their best no kidding buy it now price and got a good one from Hennessy the first time. Others called me or responded with generic e-mails that looked automated and not much more. I was geniune and direct with each but not rude. I tried to counter pricing but basically, dealers know generally know their competition & limits and once they are beat, aren't likely to go lower. The internet manager I dealt with was surpised they gave me the price they did. Use trinkets as the deal clincher.
Keep in mind, every dealer pays the same as any other, greed and overhead are the variables.
There's lots of good advice here and someone posted they're getting a Touring $1,500 below what I paid but it's all about timing; as in finding the right vehicle or having dealers cooperatively swap inventory or inbound allocations, perhaps even to meet a sales goal at EOM. Some don't play nice with each other (FWB & Pensacola), others like Tameron in Birmingham have several locations to pull from.
Happy Odyssey to you!
This is a great time to look for deals - last 2 weeks in september when everybody is trying to get their volume in for 3rd quarter...i have been looking for a EXL since July and got a couple of 2005 quotes @ invoice but didn't jump on it...and i was almost starting to feel bad since most 2006 quotes were in 29000 range before i got surprised by this one...will repost once i really get the van...
That said, who cares if it is below invoice or not? Unless there are some massive charge add-ons, getting 27,950 for an EX-L is an outstanding offer. Congratulations.
My friend had some very interesting conspiracy theories wrt this.
why will the dealer sell me my car with 8miles on it for one price and the refuse the same deal to a referal?
Did something happen during the first 8miles of my car, during other people's test drives that they hid from me ex, suspension damage due to rough driving? or had fixed in their shop and thats why they where willing to sell me mine for one price and then ask for more from my friend for exactly the same car? What is the law on such fraud? Can/Does it happen on new cars?
cldrant if your are reading this, this is your thread see what others post in reply to this question
Remember, each deal is unique at that point in time. There are many reasons why a dealer might take a price one day, but not 3 days later, such as:
- they had a bunch in stock when you got yours, but sold most/all before your friend showed up
- it was month/period end, and they needed a sale to make a manufacturer bonus target
- it was a slow/rainy/whatever day, and they really wanted to make a sale
- you were a repeat customer, and got a special deal
- different color?
- gas prices went through the roof? Big flood of additional shoppers?
These are all quick thoughts, but the key point is, supply and demand determines price, and S/D is a fluid concept, which certainly can change in a few days.
Note, I am assuming these are both cash deals, no trade involved. If you had a trade, it is quite likely they showed you a better price on the new unit, but made it up on the trade.
As to your other question, I do not believe they are legally obligated to disclose if they had to do some repairs for in transit damage (which I think is fairly common, but usually minor stuff). But, if they did a good enough job that you can't even tell, I doubt they would feel the need to lower the price to try and get rid of it. Not likely to meet the legal definition of "fraud"
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Vasu.
EX-L - 27,950 - 28,600
EL-LR - 32,000
Do we need to negotiate with dealers road price including taxes etc.. or do we talk Base price.
Thanks
Sam
What I bought....
2006 Odyssey EX Silver with Grey interior
Price: 26979.68
Dealer License Tax 53.96
Title Tax: 819.86
License Plate: 37.50
Title: 10.00
Processing Fee: 349.00
TOTAL OUT THE DOOR: 28,250.00
I believe that I got a fair deal. I probally could have got it a little lower but I don't think I did to bad.
The most important thing is that you feel good about the deal more so than the actual numbers (coping tool called rationalizing, LOL). You could haggle further but if you're OK with this, go for it. What you paid or are about to pay may be slightly higher (a grand or so) than you could have negotiated on a purely cash deal but it sounds like you did great considering the problems you had with the '04 Ody that had ongoing problems. The trinkets like keychain, plates, oil change, and second tank of gas are great returns on investment for a dealer. They're low cost and contribute greatly to customer satisfaction in that you feel like you are getting something for nothing, I hope you understand you paid for them somehow.
Check dealer trade-in values on this and other sites for a warm fuzzy on your '04 but toss out those values with a problem child trade. Somewhere there will be a post about an '04 picked up wholesale by an unsuspecting consumer, LOL. I'm sure it is a relief to not only not have worry any longer about '04 problems and satisfaction of driving the latest model. You can't put a price on that! Lemon out, peach in; good luck and congrats on your new Ody.
I am in the same boat. I have a Z4/525. The Z4 might go for the Ody. How long did you wait after your first child to get the minivan?