BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

rshaw11

The spray pattern of my 325i windshield washers is way-off, too low and to one side. The spray nozzels are mounted in plastic and I can't see a way to adjust them. Does anyone know how to adjust the spray pattern? Thanks for all suggestions.

erickpl

I have had no problems with my xi. The AWD system has worked very well in our mountainous region that does get snow and ice.

I chose the manual because the additional weight of the AWD would, in my opinion, would slow the automatic down too much.

The 330xi is a sweet car, but I couldn't justify the additional costs. For my tastes and pocketbook, the xi was a perfect fit.

I have only had one problem and the dealer was awersome in dealing with it (it was a computer controller failure - the car was still drivable but there were quirky things going on).

You can see my car's pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/skimblz_

-Paul

jgravel

Thanks for the update Paul. If I was getting a std I'd go the the 325 also but the few extra horses in the 330 make auto the fun to drive.

Thanks again,

-Jay

jameswbcox

brake problems I know about -- there is something inherently wrong wirh the rotors or associated parts- I have been through 4 sets of rotore on a 00 323- unforgivable- been in the car bix for 35 years, miles on car 64 k

toattett

According to the data by BMW, the peformance gap between the AWD 330xi and RWD 330i/ci is really small. However, a friend of mine who got to test drive both the xi and the ci claims that there is a big difference in the torque and acceleration. Is that true?
I own a 2003 330xi myself, but I am a new driver, and I haven't really driven any other cars before. Thanks for any input.

joes230

You can sometimes get a slightly better balance by putting tape-on weights on both inside and outside of the wheel. It doesn't always make a difference, but I wanted the absolute best wheel balance possible, so I had my shop use both inside and outside weights. The outside weights are fairly small and approx. the wheel color, so (to me) it's not that bad aesthetically.

joes230

As posted, a common cause of this is warped brake rotors. However it can also be caused by out-of-balance wheels, since front suspension geometry&loads change upon braking.

It's easy for the shop to check brake rotor "runout". A little gauge feels the rotor as it's turned by hand, and a dial indicator shows the runout, or off-plane variation.

If it's not the brakes, the next step is checking wheel balance, preferably on a Hunter GSP9700 road force balancer. Only this machine can check for lateral and radial wheel/tire runout. It also tells the technician how to match the tire high spot to wheel low spot for least road force variation. See www.gsp9700.com for details, including a locator tool for what shops have it.

If your brakes are OK and wheel balance (including road force variation) is OK, probably the next step is checking the steering system and alignment.

rwong1998

Exact same engine and torque and horsepower in both. Because of gearing and better traction on launch the 200 pound heavier 330xi is actually faster from 0 to 60 mph than the 330i. Car and Driver and Motorweek both have faster times from 0 to 60 (5.7 seconds and 6.2 seconds)in a 5 speed 330xi than in a 5 speed 330i.

bmwguru

If it is not the brakes, check the control arms and/or bushings. As I've stated in an earlier post, the early E46's had a problem with both. And sooner or later, you will end up replacing them.

joes230

I'm not sure I'd say so categorically that the 330Xi is faster 0-60 than a 330i. Various sources have tested these cars, and often get fluctuating numbers even for the same vehicle. Below are some numbers from different sources illustrating this. Various factors cause this: manufacturing variation, changes in temperature, humidity, altitude, etc.

IOW if Motorweek tested a fast 330Xi under good conditions (cool dry day at sea level), and a "green" or otherwise slow 330i under less favorable conditions (warmer, more humid) this could easily account for the difference. That's why you've got to look at lots of numbers, not just one or two, plus use common sense.

More importantly BMW's own numbers show the 330Xi is slightly slower than the 330i, and this is consistent whether manual-to-manual or auto-to-auto.

Also just plain common sense tells you the Xi should be slighly slower 0-60 under normal conditions. On dry pavement 0-60 is *not* limited by traction, it's limited by power-to-weight. The Xi has more weight plus more parasitic loss from the AWD system. Of course on ice an Xi would probably be faster 0-60.

This isn't unique to BMW. Audi's numbers for otherwise identical 2WD vs AWD vehicles also show the AWD version is generally a little slower 0-60.

The below numbers show in some cases a significant data spread from car to car. Note the difference from the 330Ci to 330i, despite having exactly the same weight, gearing, *and* final drive ratios.

The 330Xi has the same gearing as the 330i, with the exception of a very slightly lower (numerically higher) final drive ratio, 3.07 vs 2.93. BMW probably did this in an attempt to compensate for the Xi's slightly slower acceleration due to increased mass and parasitic losses.

Edmunds.com (2001) 330Ci: 5.9
C&D (07/02): BMW 330Ci: 5.8
Automobile (12/02) 330Ci: 5.9

R&T (04/01): 330i 6.5 (automatic)
R&T (07/02): 330i 6.1
Edmunds.com (2001) 330i: 6.7 (automatic)
Edmunds.com (2002) 330i: 6.2

Motorweek (2001) 330Xi: 6.2 (vs 6.8 for 330i)
Consumer Guide (2002) 330Xi: 6.8

330Xi BMW AG numbers: 6.9 (manual), 7.5 (automatic)
330i BMW AG numbers: 6.4 (manual), 7.0 (automatic)

rwong1998

If you read the attached motorweek review http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/reviews/rt2038a.shtml
it specifically states why they believe the 330xi is faster to 0 to 60 than the 330i. You are right the difference either way is pretty small though for either car. As for relying on a car manufacturer's numbers it uses to sell it's own cars over a respected independant third party.....well I will leave that to you who you want to believe....keep in mind that besides the M3 the 330i besides is sold and marketed by BMW as the sporty version of the E46. The 330xi is more sold on it's all weather capability than pure speed.

joes230

Yes I read not only Motorweek's review, about 15 others before I replied. Motorweek speculated that AWD traction was why a 330Xi they tested was faster 0-60 than a 330i. This is clearly wrong. I'm not saying they didn't measure what they did, but traction (on a dry road) cannot possibly explain it.

On a 225hp rear-drive car, 0-60 is not significantly traction-limited, hence adding more traction won't appreciably improve the performance. You can add all wheel drive or even put on sprockets instead of wheels, and it won't make much difference.

Motorweek's results in statistical terms is called an "outlier". It's an anomalous result that doesn't match with the overall body of data.

There are various possible explanations for this, including manufacturering variation, test conditions, test vehicle state of tune, etc.

A good example is the Subaru WRX. Car & Driver tested one 10/01 that did 0-60 in 5.4 sec. Then in 10/02 they tested another WRX with the same engine and transmission that did 0-60 in 5.9 sec.

Another example is the Infiniti G35 C&D tested in 5/02 that did 0-60 in 6.21 sec. An identically-equipped G35 they tested in 10/02 did 0-60 in 7.1 sec, a huge difference. C&D corrects for atmospheric variation, so it wasn't varying test conditions.

They remarked puzzlement at the difference. These things happen, but you can't draw categorical, sweeping conclusions based on one data point.

Xis are nice cars and it's great BMW offers that option. However outside of a rare fluke situation, an AWD e46 will generally be slightly slower 0-60 than an RWD version with the same engine and transmission.

shipo

Regarding the 330i vs. 330xi acceleration debate; the tires themselves are a factor. While there are many folks that opt to have their 330i equipped with the same 205 section width All-Season rubber than comes on the 330xi, there are also many that don't. Those that want better all around performance (without having to resort to the Performance Package) opt for the Sport Package with its 17 inch wheels wrapped in 245 section width tires made of sticky summer tire compound. Can the extra 20mm of width and the grippier rubber compound of the "i" (with SP) offset the tractor effect of the front two wheels of the "xi"? I would bet that at worst, the two are evenly matched, and at best, the 330i SP will have the advantage when all is said and done.

Best Regards,
Shipo

bernas

My glove box in my 86 325es does not open. I experienced similar problem in the past and managed to open it with a more force than normal in pulling up with the handle. However, this time around I am unable to open it.
If feels as if the two teeth inside that hold the glove box closed do not retract. No difference between locked and unlocked.
What are your suggestions to open the glove box other than having a BMW specialist break the lock and replacing it with a new one?

bmwguru

You're pretty much stuck with having the lock replaced. It sounds like the one in the car has worn out. You might try spraying a lubricant like WD-40 to see if it will loosen it up. Use sparingly.

foggydew

I just bought my first BMW last week, 330xi with premium, sport and cold weather packages. Also, opted for the manual 6 speed transmission. Have put over 700miles driving around and noticed a whining sound coming from under the transmission when I start or turn off the car. Also, the infamous clunking in the rear axle when putting the car into 1st gear. Have scheduled a trip back to the dealer to look into these issues.

Today, the Mrs. and I went on a 4 hour trip which left both of us were extremely saddle sore. I drive a motor cycle in the summer months and I'd expect a more comfortable riding experience from the bimmer than a bike. Is this normal on a BMW?

brislance1

I just returned from a 2000 mile drive from Tucson to my Minnesota home. We bought a foam rubber filled seat cover for each of us and this has helped greatly. I think the BMW seats are the most uncomfortable I have ever experienced. I thought mine were uncomfortable because I have no sport package, but from what you say, that makes no difference.

joes230

Some seats have a reputation as good or bad. However -- how a person fits a seat is highly individualistic. People's body characteristics mold to the seat in unique and unpredictable ways.

My 330i SP has sport seats, which are the most comfortable I've ever had for long drives. Yet not everybody says this. Some don't like the sport seats.

I have long legs and I like the extensible thigh support. Also I have neck problems and the fore/aft adjustable head rest helps me a lot. Unlike lots of Japanese cars, the 330i has a fore/aft adjustable steering column. Manipulating all these I can get the driving position "just right".

So my first recommendation is make use of all the adjustments to optimize it for your body.

One common mistake people make is having too little lumbar support. If you're used to a car without this, having the ergonomically proper lumbar support at first feels uncomfortable. But ultimately it makes long drives more comfortable. I don't know if your car has this or not, but if so try increasing it a little.

If you have adjustable thigh support, adjust this to support your legs, along with the seat bottom angle. You want your legs supported somewhat, not all your body weight on your butt.

If you're used to a car without fore/aft adjustable headrests, you may be keeping your seat back too upright. Try reclining your seat back a little more, and adjust the headrest forward to maintain your neck at the proper angle. Putting more weight on your back and less on your legs often helps.

walter12

We have had a 01 325Ci and have just bought an 03 325Xi. Both have had a "whining" sound under the car upon starting and turning off. I never paid any attention to the sound as I thought it was the electric fuel pump. We never had any problems in the two years of ownership with the 325CI.

Our 03 325Xi is a manual transmission BMW with no clunking sounds. We did not have a clunking sound with the 01, however. I would be interested in what your dealer tells you, as we are new owners of an Xi. By the way, we don't have SP and our seats are very comfortable.

asleepy

I have a 2003 BMW 325i, manual, moonroof, OBC and Xenon. It has 750 miles on it. Today, I tried to start it and the engine did not catch on the first time. It did catch on the second try but the Service Engine Soon light stayed on. I drove it 5 mis., did a 10 min. errand and tried to start car. Again, it would not start the first time. It started again the second time and on the way home, I happen to notice that the coolant temp. needle had gone all the way to the right, passed the red danger zone. The red "danger zone" light on the dial did not come on at all. After the car cooled, I checked the coolant level and it was full. I am taking the car in to the dealer to have it checked but I am disappointed as the car only has 750 miles on it. It is not a fuel cap issue as I did not put any gas in for about a week (still had 1/3 left). Anyone experience something similar?

ajl1000

Hi!
Lately, I have been hearing this squeal from, I think, the rear wheels of my 2000 323i. The odd thing, though, is that it doesn't happen while I'm braking. It's pattern seems random, also. I can't figure out what could be causing this and have been unable to recreate the noise intentionally. It only occurs every once in a while, but I expected fewer problems from a car this expensive. I generally hear it only while I'm driving slowly, but the car might be drowning it out at higher speeds. Plus, I have only had the car for about 3 months now! If anyone has had any experience or any information on this, please respond.

Thanks,
AJL1000

I still love this car!

cpo_bmw2002

I got a certified 2002 BMW couple of weeks back. When I took the car out in the morning the engine stalled after the car moved about 100 feet or so. I had to start the engine again. This occured 4 times so far. This happens when I take the car out in the morning . by the way I live in NJ. Outside temparature must have been in 50's when I started the car. Anyone has any ideas on why this must be happening.

walter12

Go to roadfly.org/bmw/forums and read the posts by Rockgandro1100. His problem sound exactly like your problem. However, his dealer cannot solve the issue, even thought they can duplicate it and are in contact with the manufacturer. Maybe the two of you can get this solved for the rest of us. Let us know how you make out.

russbimmer

I have a new car - 2.5 months old. When traveling a slow speeds and braking to stop, there seems to be some Thumping. Didn't bother much initially, then the thumping became real bad; and I took it to the dealers. I've already taken the car twice to the dealers; luckily was able to replicate the problem; and they re-programmed the chip to resolve the issue both times. The problem surfaces again in 1-2 days after each repair. Has anyone a faced this problem? How did you'll resolve this?...I don't trust the re-programming anymore. It's pretty frustrating to have these problems after spending so much money on a car and having had this problem since 1-week after buying the car.

oldking

I Bought my 2003 325i in Jan/'03, I am experiencing the exact same problem that you described. I haven't had time to take it in, since the problem is sporadic, and I thought it might be difficult to replicate. I just received a recall notice on the window pinching issue. When I bring the car in for the recall, I'll address the transmission issue at that time and see if I can get it resolved. Anybody else with the same problem, resolving satisfactorily?

ultrarunner

I love my 2002 325i except for the "clunk" it makes when I slow to a stop.

I had the "fix" and now it is doing the same thing again. I even told BMW when they surveyed me after the software update that the problem has come back.

I was considering purchasing a second BMW European Delivery but I won't if the "clunk" problem cannot be fixed. Never had this problem with any other car.

When I have passengers, I am told "nice car but what is that clunk noise" I don't think any car should have this problem and especially one in the BMW price range.

colnago

I have a 1985 325e that I bought new. It probably has around 285-300K. I say probably because the odometer stopped a number of years ago and I never got it fixed because I thought I was going to trade it in, but the drive is so sweet, I just kept it. The odometer still pops on every once in awhile when the outside temp is high. I am looking at a 2003 330i, primarily because I am not that comfy with my car on long trips anymore, but when I last drove one, the steering felt very loose. My wife has a 2001 325i, but it is an automatic and I have never driven an automatic in all my 35 years of driving. Any comments on the steering from those in the know.

kdshapiro

The steering could very well be loose, but I have a 330i with step and the steering is tight and communicative. Steering the car is effortless, however with the low profile tires, the car sometimes follows the ruts in the road. I would say take another one of for a test drive. BTW, the seats are just okay. I have been in the car for my hours at a stretch and find one thing, my back does not suffer one iota, but I would love the sports seats with the bolster.

pearlly

I have a 320i. Last night as I was driving home in the rain, the front window completely fogged up to the point where I had to use a sweater to wipe it off before I ran off the road. I had the A/C on briefly but had turned it off. I tried blowing the fog away but nothing seemed to work. Finally, it all cleared. This happened once before on a snowy day in November. Any recommendation, thoughts? I tried blowing hot, cold, warm air on the windows but nothing but time seemed to work.

ptrekker

The only way I have EVER got windows unfogged is by using the AC even if warm. It Dehumidifies the air. Just keep it on auto and you'll be OK.

cnorthrup

Was your re-circulate button set to off?

i.e. no lights lit.

Chuck

jz5678

I recently bought a used 00 323i with 63k on it. I had it checked out by a mechanic and the only problem was that the steering fluid was leaking. I figured it was a cheap enough repair to warrant purchasing the vehicle, and later brought it to a local dealer to fix. They inspected it and stated that it was only the hoses that leaked, and the actual mechanism was fine. So I had the hoses "rebuilt" as they said. Well, about a month later, I noticed that the fluid in the resvoir is leaking pretty stong. A few days ago, it was almost empty, so I filled it up, and it drained out in a matter of days. However, I have not noticed any fluid being dripped onto the ground. Would this be a leak in the resvoir, or the pump itself? Anyone with a similar problem? Thanks in advance

div2

It could be the steering rack-leaking past the seals into the boots. The boots can hold quite a bit of fluid before they start to leak themselves. BTDT on my wife's 3er.

shortstack

I just purchased a BMW 325i with automatic/steptronic and am having trouble starting the car! When it is a cold start (ie after being left alone overnight), the car shudders violently, does some knocking, and then chooses whether or not to even start! I live in Texas where the weather is not terribly cold or hot yet for this time of year.

I am very disturbed b/c I have 110 miles on the car (just bought it last week) and already have taken it into the dealership! Have any of you experienced BMW drivers had this problem?

I must confess that I come from a family of Japanese car owners and decided to take a leap and try something different with my 1st BMW. But now I am second guessing myself!! Pls help. Thanks!

kdshapiro

shortstack -relax you'll get it fixed. My first ever Japanese vehicle, went back to the dealer to have the dashboard disassembled, because it sounded like a baby's rattle was lodged in the dashboard. I said to myself, "self" what am I getting into? But they fixed it and the car worked great for the most part.

This has got to be a problem that's easy to replicate bring it back to the dealer and make 'em fix it.

bmw323is

I also have a 2000 323i. At around 12,000 miles my steering pump leaked, but it leaked onto the ground. Dealer replaced the pump and fixed the problem. They said a small plastic part(?) was to blame, but they replaced the whole pump.

njdriver1

20,000m on my 2001 330i auto, and for the second time the car is in the shop with the tranny light on (as well as the service engine soon light). Driving in stop and go traffic, during an intense thundershower in NYC, the rear thumps and the light comes on. I tried turning off the car to re-set the chip, but no luck. Limped home and dropped it at the dealer.

A year ago the shop had the car for a week for a "valve body", whatever that was. What are the odds the transmission would be in trouble a second time?

ksoman

let it happen one more time and claim lemon...

ksso

benjminn

We just bought a new 2003 325 sedan and tonight when I parked the car I noticed a strange gurgling (almost percolating) sound. It seemed to come from the front of the car/center console to driver's side. It was pronounced when the car was idle but I could hear it afterwards when I tried to drive the car around a little. I am very worried since my car has just passed two hundred miles. Has anyone had any similar problems? If so, what do I need to do about it?

Benjminn

kdshapiro

Could it be the air-conditioning system? Sometimes you can hear the air conditioner R434??? going through the pipes.

benjminn

I dont think its the AC. And just this morning as I am about to leave for work, I noticed that the power steering is gone.... this is really frustrating me since it's not even a week old. I am going to call my dealer this morning but I don't even know if I can drive the car there.... I will keep you guys posted.

Benjminn

benjminn

I just got word from my dealer that the problem was a faulty washer that was connecting some of the steering fluid pumps/valves (not real familiar with car parts) and that it broke and caused the fluid to leak out. Theyre replacing it and they said that there shouldn't be any problems at all. Do you guys think the same? Or should I request for a new car/ make a fuss? It dampens my trust in the car I currently own that it broke down not even a week after purchase.

Benjminn

hicaira

Make a fuss? Over what? It broke, they fixed it. End of story.

If it keeps breaking, and they keep fixing, then make a fuss. As it is for now, you are whole and they have done exactly what the warranty requires.

Enjoy the car and quit worrying.

HiC

asleepy

Benjiminn,
I know the car breaking down so soon after you took possession of it is disheartening. The same thing happen to my 2003 325i. At 700 miles, the coolant temperature sensor went out and at 1000 miles, the speed sensor went out. And even now, at 1500 miles, I feel a vibration coming from the front axle at 2000 RPMs and when I step off the accelerator. Unfortunately, I could not replicate this sensation in front of the dealer so I'm living with it until something goes wrong.

Others on this board have had trouble free experiences while someone like me and you have had to take the car back in so soon. Maybe the law of averages are not on our side. I feel there is nothing I can do to not break the car (short of abusing it) so I just enjoy it and I am resigned to the fact that I have the warranty (yes, a big pain to keep taking it back but what areyou going to do...).

benjminn

Hey jz5678,

Regarding your steering problems. Something quite similar happened to me I think. Scroll down and I will describe it in more detail.

Benjminn

benjminn

OK. Got the car back from my dealer already. First let me say that they did an awesome job on driving to my place with a loaner car (a red 2003 330 coupe) so I wouldn't have to drive my 325i sans steering fluid.
I was reading some previous posts and I believe that what happened to me may be similar to what happened to jz5678. Anyway, the official description is as follows:

O-ring defective/pinched on power steering line from pump to rack (O-ring on pump end) resulting in the power steering fluid leaking out, leak came from high pressure hose at pump. They replaced the O-ring and re-installed the high pressure hose, re-filled the system.

I definitely don't see any reason for making any additional fuss over it. (Yes yes I am taking your advise Hicaira :P). But I definitely can commisserate with Asleepy re having to service a brand new car. I sure hope that this is the last time I will have to post a message about car problems. And maybe next time I will be posting how happy I am that my car is trouble-free. Good luck on your car Asleepy.

By the way, this forum ROCKS! Makes me feel like I'm not alone worrying about my car.

Benjminn

kdshapiro

You're definitely not alone in worrying about your car. There are people who would have you believe the BMWs are junk and Japanese vehicles are gold. I have owned 5 Japanese vehicles. The first one, went back to the dealer for dashboard disassembly. The 3 Nissans were just okay in terms of ownership. On the other hand, my BMW went back to the dealer soon after I picked it up to fix one legitimate problem, the radio static noise problem. It just went in for the 15,000 mile service. No other issues or problems.

Every manufacturer has issues with cars coming off the line, but somehow BMW takes it on the chin harder than other Japanese manufacturers, who might have other issues. Either way all cars will have issues so you can expect to bring the car back to the dealer more than once in a cars lifetime for unscheduled service.

ksoman

As a general rule, the more $ you plow into the object of desire (for political correctness, women are excluded), the more minutely you will observe the behaviour of the said object. Same goes with cars I guess. A lot of people tend to complain about the more expensive brands because we cannot live with even basic laws of physics sometimes (for example i once read about a person who happened to be in the desert and the wood seemed to crackle after turning on the a/c... oh well, different bonded materials contract and expand at different rates, give it a rest...). I am not trying to say your problem was not legitimate and/or grave, but as my very old friend HiC (where the hell did he reappear from???) pointed out, that's why we have warranties.

Good luck and hopefully, life will be rosier hence forth

kssomaniac #0
4:50 am

njdriver1

New Jersey lemon law is limited to 18,000 miles. I should be hearing in the next day or so the results of the computer diagnostics. Regardless, for the trans. to act up twice in 2 years is a bit discouraging.

wxy2861

I got my 2000 323i in April, it was still chilly around here and the car had always been troubleFREE, until recently when the summer comes around. I've had my service engine light , EML light, and DSC light went on at the same time twice so far , the first time i brought in the dealer they said they found it was the Cam sensor failure that caused me all the problems( stalled on me in 2nd gear also ). then again this time after i put the car in a shade, it was cooling offa nd then i tried starting it , it was completely fine again. (compared to the undrivable condition)
but still yet i'm bringing in to the dealer tomorrow just to check if everything's ok

anyone have suggestions or advices?