BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

wxy2861

so the dealer told me it was the gas pedal problem so they're ordering another one for it,
... wonder if that'll solve the problem..

use2bbmwowner

I've had:

Moon roof, headlights, turn signals, AC, engine lights, transmission sensors, etc, etc, etc....Did Yugo buy BMW and nobody told me????

Here's one: I had $2,200 in electric problems after 2 1/2 years of ownership. The dealer "fixed" my moon roof, engine sensors, a clicking sound in my glove box that corresponded with my headlights getting brighter and dimmer, and some glitch with my running/tail lights burning out every 2-4 months. It was in the shop about 1 3/4 days. After having very heated discussions with one of the owners of the dealership, BMW USA cut my cost to just over $700.00 (I shouldn't have had to pay a dime). When I got in my car, on the dealership lot, I rolled my windows down and almost had a flippin' stroke!!! ALL FOUR (4) of my windows made a cracking, creaking, sound that wasn't there 2 days before. I went to the service guy and here's what he said before I finished my sentence: Oh, that's your power windows motors....they're bad....that's not related to the electrical problems. What???? Did I smoke a bowl or was he stoned???

BMW has electrical issues. Make no mistake.

I was on the lot yesterday (6-19-03) for my latest contribution of $700+ to the dealer and guess what I saw when I picked up my car? Three brand new 745s (they all had private license plates so somebody owned these poor cars) were getting electrical tests because the main computers had "unknown" problems and the cars weren't running right. The tech said the new 745s make the 323i look great in relation to electric problems.

Like the song says: "I'm turning Japanese, I think I'm turning Japanese, I really think so..."

All I want is BMW USA to fess up and say: "Yeah, you're right, the 2000 323i does have electric problems but we'll do the right thing and fix them.......WITHOUT CHARGE.

div2

                        TROLL ALERT!!!

Don't feed him; maybe he'll get back in his KIA and trundle away...

wxy2861

Yea I just got my car back in the shop after those service engine, EML, and Traction control light. they told me that it wasn't the pedal problem after they put the new part in, they found it was a throttle ....electrical problem on the computer... but anyway since they replaced something on the gas pedal.. the car drives so much smoothier, gas pedal feels non-sticky and the whole experience of driving my car has changed again significantly... suggest you should try that..(i have a manual btw)
and weird..i used to push down the nob on the dashboard and it'd show me the temperature, now it just switch back and forth the 24 time unit and am pm unit...anybody know how to adjust that?
good thing I didn't get charge any of these since the car is still under warranty, you said you paid 2200, no warranty up to 50000m/4years?

njdriver1

So BMW tells the dealer to install a "speed sensor" and that'll solve the problem, which, for the meantime, it does. What does this tell me about the transmission, and the car, for that matter? And, what is a "speed sensor"?

swschrad

that the transmission and engine are coupled through the computer control system, and that parts can still fail even on a Black Forest car. speed sensors are the modern equivalent of a speedometer gear, driven off the transmission output shaft, and they tell the computer how fast you are going. the computer also looks at the engine speed, the gear, fuel usage, emissions stuff, and fiddles the mixture, fiddles the spark timing, and if you have an electronic dash sends the speed signal and miles driven signals to the readouts.

njdriver1

Thanks. I guess there's no end to the amount of potential computer-driven glitches that can occur. The service comments mentioned pinched wires, fault read-outs, etc. I suppose the inter-connected nature of a system like this could have resulted in many failures, or at least inefficiencies. Thanks again. I had no idea.

shortstack

Hi everyone! I had trouble starting my car so I took it in to the dealership. Two weeks later, my car is back in my possession! Is that a normal turnaround for the car to be in the shop? Also, they gave me a Lincoln Town Car as my loaner, is that also normal? I see people here that get BMWs as their loaners...or am I being ungrateful b/c I am lucky to have a loaner?

Well, my main squeeze now is that the engine STILL has trouble starting in the morning. It does not knock like before but I can still notice a hesitancy and a bit of a shake when the car is started. Should I take it back in and talk to the service manager?

I am concerned for a couple of reasons: 1.) It is a BRAND NEW CAR, 2.)After having the car for 2 weeks, the problem does not seem to be completely fixed. Am I expecting too much from my BMW?

danfoxx

I have a clunker, AKA 99' 328i Sport.
I have the manual transmission and heard the clunk everytime I was down shifting and heard the clunk when I started in first. It began to really bug me out so I put her on a lift and underneath I found something no so settling...

If you look at the spare tire well from underneath, the front of the car is 12:00, look around 10:30 deep with a flashlight see if you see what i saw. Below are links to the pictures I took. Scary.

It seems as though the BMW can't handle its own torque? You can only hear the clunk noise when there is torque on the "rear assembly". Please let me know what you think and if you find something similiar.

http://www.partydot.com/bmw/pic01.jpg
http://www.partydot.com/bmw/pic02.jpg
http://www.partydot.com/bmw/b4.jpg

These pictures are with the rear right tire off and 70K on my OD.

bmw@partydot.com

shortstack

I just posted about my "Update on Post #706." Well, I had to go BACK to the dealership today b/c my automatic side mirrors would not work (just a fuse that they had to shove back in). I inquired about why my car still hesitated for 2-3 seconds after being started. After this 2-3 seconds, then it would purr like it normally does!

My service guy said that MOST BMW's always do this after a cold start. That it takes a couple of seconds for the computer to read the conditions (temperature, pressure, etc) and determine the ratio of fuel pumped to the engine. That was why it hesitated and almost all of their loaners did.

Is this true? Any other BMW owners out there have this issue? Or is this guy trying to blow smoke up my [non-permissible content removed]?

Please help, I'm trying so hard to love my BMW. I adore the way it handles, love driving it, but starting it is just a nightmare every time.

Thanks for all of your help.

walter12

Your service advisor sounds like he's blowing smoke and more. Our 9 week old BMW does not do this nor did our 2 year old BMW we traded-in. In fact, none of our previous cars did this such as our Nissan truck or Honda Accord.

BMW must use some pretty bad computers if it takes them 2-3 seconds to figure out engine settings, etc. If it were me, I would be back in the dealer's service department nicely requesting they fix my car.

ksoman

To those who have trouble in dealing with dealers, the mention of the internet should help. Most dealership people now understand that if you are surfing the web, you have access to alot of comparable information and they'll stop B.S.ing you.

Just mention stuff like "the other 3 owners on the internet do not ... blah blah blah" and that should cut the cat and mouse games they play with you.

just my 21 cents
ksso

kdshapiro

The internet is also a garbage can.

fredandrews

Hi -

I purchased a pre-owned certified 2002 325I sedan with Sport suspension low profile 17" wheels alloy rims on May 6th 2003. The rims and tire are stock.
Today, I noticed that my right rear tire was low. I took the wheel in to patch and found out that the rim had a hairline crack which caused the tire to leak. I have not been in an accident and have only driven the car under normal driving conditions.

Frankly - I am shocked that this happened - so my question is this -
1)Do you think this is covered under the BMW warranty?
2) Has anyone else had this problem?
3) Is this a design flaw? Since I think that this should not happen to a rim.

Your comments are appreciated.

Fred

kdshapiro

I have a friend who bent a rim going over some rough pavement. I also believe the low profile tires contribute to performance, however, they and the rims are more subject to problems.

I do not think it is out of the realm of possibility that a pothole on the road with sufficient force could crack the rim.

shortstack

walter12 and ksoman and kdshapiro (:o))

Thanks for your feedback. I agree with you but needed feedback from other BMW owners too. That way, I have more ammo.

I intend to do the following;
1.) Call other BMW service dept's in my state and ask if their BMWs have this problem
2.) Print out this forum (let me know if you are not comfortable with this and I won't. I'll just mention what ksoman told me to)
3.) Request to cold start any car on the lot and see if it has the problem as well.

I'm basically giving it a week to see if the car still does it after cold starts and to gather all of my research so that I have a case to argue. Otherwise, I just sound like a picky and whiny customer.

Thanks again for your feedback! If anybody else has any, it would be great. The more, the better.

Shorty

danfoxx

Anyone check thir cars fot his problem? Let me know!

jbailey6

I noticed a question here about a cracked rim problem with associated low tire pressure. I have a related question. I have a new BMW 330xi. I'm still getting accustomed to it. In trying to park it today, I guess I drove the front passenger-side tire over the curb. I didn't realize I had done this until I heard a clunking sound. When I inspected the front passenger-side tire, I noticed a 1/2 inch abrasion or rough area in the edge of the rim and a superficial tear in the side wall of the tire just where it adjoined the roughened part of the rim. The rubber of the side wall has separated there leaving a loose tag about 1/2 inch long and 1/4 inch wide through which I can see the inner tube of the tire. I have 17 x 7 alloy wheels and 205/50 R 17 93 V Continental tires. I do not have the sports package. My questions are are as follows:
1. Is a small separation of the outermost layer of the tire likely to lead to problems in the future such as slow loss of pressure? I'll be checking the pressure tomorrow at a filling station, but it appears to be fine now.
2. Can such a small separation progress and cause a wider separation of the outer rubber layer?
3. Admittedly, I was very clumsy in what I did. However, with an 330 xi, is it not designed to withstand uneven surfaces? I was driving very slowly and the front wheel must have gone over the curb and then dropped about 6 inches.
4. Is there any type of repair that can or should be performed for this type of damage?

I'd greatly appreciate the advice of the experts at this site. I've never had this type of problem with a tire before although I've done this type of dumb thing a few times in the past! Thanks! Jim

russbimmer

Oldking - Were you able to get the thumping/Clunking Transmisison problem resolved? What did the dealers say?
Also what's the "Window Pinching" for which you recieved a call-back? Did the dealers contact you regarding this? - how do I know if my car falls ina Re-Call category?

russbimmer

I didn't get a good idea of the problem you had. Was your transmission problem anything similar to the one i've posted regarding the clunking/thumping at slow speeds in my 2003 325i Automatic?

ptrekker

there are a bunch of posts on roadfly and bimmerfest that claim that an EGS reprogram is the ticket. Supposedly someone's dealer had this:

TEST DRIVE VEHICLE TO VERIFY COMPLAINT OF HARD DOWN SHIFT WHEN COMING TO A STOP SEE SIB 24 02 03 FOR PROCEDURE TO REPROGRAM EGS WITH CD 33.0 1ST UPDATE. PROGRAM EGS & PRINT CODE

I don't know if that cured.

fredandrews

Jim -

I have a similiar problem. See my earlier post. Anyway, I purchased a 325i w/sport package Style 96 rims about 7 weeks ago. I recently found out that my rim is cracked and bent which causes a slow leak. I am not aware of hitting any object including potholes and have only experienced normal driving conditions. BMW has indicated that it will not repair/replace this rim stating that the rim was bent because of outside influences. The cost quoted to replace from BMW was $400. I can get a used one from Car-parts.com for about $200.

I really believe that even if I hit a pothole, that a wheel/rim should not bend and believe that it is a design defect. I have read about others having this problem. If possible, if we can identify enough owners with this problem, I believe that we can present a strong case to BMW for replacement of these wheels.

If anyone else has this problem, please speak up.

Frederick

njdriver1

The first time, at 7,000m, began with the idiot light going off, and resulted in a new "valve body", whatever that is. The second time, at 20,000m, again began with the idiot light and the service engine light going off, and resulted in a new "speed sensor", whatever that is. Neither time did I feel any significant issue with the trans prior to having the light go off. Occassionaly, while running the A/C and driving slowly, the car seems to shift sluggishly and rev high, as if stuck in the wrong gear. But other than the light going on, I never would have known anything was wrong.

hicaira

If I read correctly, you have a cut tire, but not deep enough to penetrate the nylon caps. You also have a damaged rim, but it is only cosmetic?

As for the tire, replace it. It is a blow-out waiting to happen. Don't go to a dealer though unless you want to pay twice as much as it is worth. While at the tire shop, have them inspect the rim. If it is bent, by ANY amount, have it fixed. You do not need to replace a mildly bent rim - they are repairable.

I think your local Wallmart sells those curb feelers

HiC

ksoman

I doubt you can do much against bmw... by the nature of its chemical and physical composition, non steel wheels are very very prone to being bent (rarer) and cracked or broken much much easily. It is one big reason you'd never find serious off roaders use alloys and aluminium wheels.. they'll stick with all steel...

my 1 cent
ksso

hermosaman

Hello. I have a '93 325i. I know this is the E36, but thought I could get some assistance here. Occasionally, I get the "Check" warning on the on board computer with the message "Brake Light Circuit". I was concerned that it meant I was driving without brake lights but they are working.

My service technician says this is a quirk with the model, and nothing to worry about.

Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions?

jbailey6

HiC, Thanks for your advice. The rim is not bent or cracked. There is just a superficial roughening of the rim (about 1/2") where it impacted the curb, but I will get it inspected when I change the tire. There is a superficial tear in the tire at the same point. Does everyone agree with HiC that this is a blowout waiting to happen? My car is new and under warranty. It's obvious that taking it to the dealer to have the tire replaced would be more expensive than taking it to a Discount Tire shop. Do companies like "Discount Tire" do an adequate job with this type of thing? I assume that the tires will also have to be balanced after a new tire is installed. I'd appreciate advice from others on this Board about some of these points. Thanks in advance, Jim

bmw323is

It's hard for others to know what you mean by "a tear" in the tire. I would NEVER drive on a tire that may be subject to a severe blowout. I think you should have someone very knowledgeable look at the tire, like the folks at Discount Tire. But make sure you end up talking with someone that isn't just tire changing jockey. Ask some questions to determine their competance first. Maybe ask for a second opinion if you feel the need.

If you are really on the fence about replacement, at least put the spare on the car and keep the damaged tire for a spare.

If you replace the tire, only that wheel will need to be balanced. That cost is sometimes included with the cost of the tire. Better safe than sorry.

jbailey6

Thanks a lot for your advice. I called Discount Tire to order a replacement tire today, but the Continental is on back order and will not be available for at least 4-8 weeks. This applies also to other potential sources like the Tire Rack, etc. So I'll follow your advice and will use the spare to replace the damaged tire leaving the latter in the trunk. When the Continental tires are again available I plan to replace the damaged tire/spare with a new tire. This site is so valuable for discussing BMW and car issues. It's just a great resource for getting general information and advice! Thanks, Jim

zeppelin579

hi all!

i have an e36 (96 318i), but i couldn't find a forum on them and i hoped someone here might have some insight into this problem i'm having. i was out driving the other day and i heard this horrible metal-on-metal sound from what seemed to be the left rear wheelwell. i popped out of the car to check it out and nothing was dragging on the ground--i thought it might be the exhaust. i drove home and the sound mitigated but didn't go away, it grew more mild. i took it out today for a brief drive to see if the problem was still there. i heard nothing for five minutes, and then it came back, the same whine/squeal from the back of the car.

i was hoping maybe the taking-five-minutes to kick in was significant. it's a stick if that could matter.

i made an appointment with the dealer but they won't see me for two weeks, and i've got a job that's very driving-intensive, so i'd like to gauge how serious this is--i.e., can i keep driving it, is it safe, what could this be, anything like that.

thanks for your help in advance.

div2

Check and see if a piece of gravel is stuck between the brake rotor and the dust shield. That can make a terrible noise-ask me how I know...

ksoman

how you know mang?

hehe, just teasing
ksso

mathtype

The battery went dead yesterday on my 37-month old 2000 323 Ci. I got a jump start and took it to the dealer, who checked it out. They said that the battery was OK, but that my aftermarket CD changer (identical to the BMW product) was drawing current with the engine off. (The changer was installed a couple of weeks after the car wa bought.)

I have two questions:
  1. Has anyone had a problem with the CD changer that caused the battery to go dead?
  2. Are there any chain stores that sell a battery for my car? (The dealer wants $240 (!) for a new battery, and I checked Sears, which doesn't sell a replacement.)

Thanks.

jchacko5

i have a 2004 330ci. i have heard a noise that seems to come on at around 15mph to 45mph. it increases in freq as the speed increases. doesnt seem to be related to rpm. above 45 it is too fast to hear. seems to me that something is rubbing against the drive shaft or tire. have put it up and examined the tires and they seem to be fine. would appreciate any input.

div2

Go to http://www.interstatebatteries.com/ and find a nearby dealer. The application chart lists MTP-91 as the correct replacement- $95.95 is the MSRP.

johnnyho

Shortstack - Was there any resolution to your cold start problem? I have an '03 M3 which developed that exact same problem but only after 3 months and 2,500 miles.

I've owned a BMW '90 535 in the past which had a similar, but much less drastic, problem than my M3 has now. It's a VERY noticeable "hesitation" and has stalled the car at least once.

I suspect it is a minor adjustment, but frustrating. BMW should be able to figure this thing out...

BTW - in '90 the dealer just told me to live with it. That BMW has a problem with mid-temperatures (Southern CA - 50s/60s) and doesn't calculate the mix correctly...

fuzzalee

After moving to Tampa last year, I quickly learned what "Buyer Beware" meant in terms of repairs at dealerships. An $800 quote for replacing the two straps on the top versus $225 at a automobile upholstery shop. $550 quote for replacing the fogged back window versus $300 at the upholstery shop (they did an excellent job). Now my check engine light is on and my independent repair shop's computer is being locked out of my car's brain. Is there anyway to correct this and avoid the car dealership. I hope. I hope.

div2

Find a repair shop that can spell "OBDII". ALL 1996-on passenger vehicles are required-by Federal law-to use a standardized diagnostic protocol known a OBDII. While BMW uses proprietary diagnostic tools for some systems such as the SRS and IHKA module, they cannot "lock out" an OBDII compliant diagnostic machine. Thus, an AutoZone store can-and will-be able to read any fault codes set by the on-board diagnostics. Even better, they will do it for free. If your independent shop can't figure out how to diagnose a car fitted with OBD II they are DANGEROUSLY incompetent. What shop(s) do the local CCA members use? You might also want to look into a Peake R5/FCX: http://peakeresearch.com/code_tool.htm It's only $150, and it will allow you to reset your SI lights AND diagnose any CEL. I have one for my E39 and E36/5; it is an extremely useful tool. That said, I want to repeat: Ditch the brain-dead morons who claim that they are "locked out" and FIND A COMPETENT INDEPENDENT BMW TECH!!!

texan5

Autozone will read the OBDII codes for free.

beyleaf

Hi
I'm new to this. I own a 1999 323i and in the past year I've had to replace 2 window regulators. And one of them is going out again. I've been told it's a very common thing for a BMW. Which really makes me want to get rid of it. Because it is not cheap to keep replacing. And on top of that the door leaks water in when it rains, so I have a huge puddle on the floor board. I just got that repaired hopefully.
If it not one thing its another, it starts to come apart. When it rains it pours.

div2

Find a new shop; I've NEVER replaced a regulator in any of the five late model BMWs I've owned, never mind replacing them on a yearly basis. Whoever told you the problem is common is misinformed at best, and a drooling idiot at worst. I know that the E39 5er regulators sometimes fail, but usually it's after five years or so. Also, sometimes the plastic clips that secure the window to the regulator will break or come loose, but again the problem usually only affects older cars. At any rate, replacing the clips is a cheap(under$20) and easy(under one hour)DIY job. As is often the case, I think the car is being blamed for the incompetence of the shop performing the so-called repairs. There is NO WAY the car should be eating regulators on an annual basis, period. Your shop is either using substandard parts or installing them incorrectly-possibly both. As for the door leak, it's very likely that the bozos who muffed the regulator install also failed to reassemble the door properly. Rain water can easily find its way into the interior if the plastic moisture barrier on the door is removed and/or reinstalled improperly. Here's a hint: ask some local CCA members about the shops they patronize.

bmw323is

This is a common problem on the E46. I've had two go bad and my coworker has had three (the dealer replced the fourth one for her because she put up a stink about making three trips and she wasn't going to do it again). We each use different BMW dealers and they have both told us it was a common problem. It doesn't "eat" regulators. None of the same regulators have been replaced twice. It would seem that some of the OEM ones must be faulty. I don't know the price of the repair because in our cases all work was under warranty.

bmwguru

I work in a dealership and sell a lot of regulators. They are a common replacement item. The E46 has had problems with the regulators,vapor seals and door seals among other things. It isn't a problem with the installers, it is poor quality parts. Now that BMW has become a "volume" car maker, quality of parts have gone down. I can say this because I've been selling parts for close to 15 years. Div, you've been lucky not to have this problem. Maybe it's because you are more aware of it than others.

jchacko5

i posted a message earlier concerning noise/vibration. i took it to the dealer and after driving around with a service rep and leaving it there for 2 hrs i have been told that i hav e a "unbalanced drive shaft". awaiting new drive drive shaft as i write this. since this is a new car barely 2 weeks old i am highly disappointed. i have had this problem from day 1.

955i

BMWguru, are the window regulators in the 2003 models the same as in previous years? Or have they been redesigned?

asleepy

i read your previous post and it sounds very similar to my car. my 2003 325i MT, at 1000 miles, developed a faint grinding sensation coming from the left front wheel and also a ticking sensation coming through the floorboard. both of these happen during slow speeds. i took it to the dealer and drove in the car with the master mechanic but he said couldn't detect anything. is what i described what you experienced as well?

bmwguru

The window regulator part number has been superceded (upgraded) twice during the life of the E46.

bmw323is

All this talk of window regulators was bad karma. Over the weekend, my third window quit working. Since it is the drivers window now, I need to get it fixed right away, so it's off to the dealer at 6:00 am tomorrow for a 2 hour "wait" appointment.

Eight trips to the service department in just over 3 years for warranty work (not including maintenance). BMW needs to show improvment in this area before I'll buy another one. I sure do love driving the car though!

ksoman

beets my mind.. if volume producers like honda and toyota don't let volume kill their quality, how is a premier brand we love.. like bmw doing it? did buying a brit marque make them british in their car build quality world??? hahahaha
sorry, not meaning to joke about it....

bmwguru

Simple answer, Toyota and Honda have control over or at least some financial holdings in their part suppliers. BMW, with the exception of Varta Battery, does not.