BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

malomker

I won't argue with your point that used cars aren't the best choice for a lot of people. The gentleman that made all of the comments about buying your own rotors wasn't too helpful in this case. If you don't own all of the tools and have the skill to use them you may very well do more damage than good....been there and done that.

$1k for struts is outrageous, though. I don't disagree with having the dealer diagnose your problems but that doesn't mean you can't get quotes from other garages. You also don't have to buy OEM parts that are ridiculously overpriced...there are a lot of aftermarket performance parts that cost less than the standard OEM pieces. Buy the parts you know that you need off the Internet and find a shop that'll install it for a reasonable amount...you live in a big city so you can find at least one good shop.

I think you realize your mistake, though. A 5 yr loan on a 55k mile car wasn't a wise decision. Get through this loan and make a wiser decision next time. I've made plenty of mistakes as well...I'm leasing a new 325xi one year from now.

div2

I'm truly sorry you found my post difficult to understand. Allow me to simpify it for you: the only DIY jobs that I advised dsjeepti to undertake were the fuse and window regulator repairs(although replacing pads and rotors is hardly rocket science). The purpose of my post was to illustrate the cost of parts relative to what he actually paid. Read my post again-for comprehension this time-and you should grasp that I advised dsjeepti to find a good independant shop to perform service and repairs. I'm also intrigued by your OEM vs. aftermarket parts statements. So please, let us all know where you obtained your extensive knowledge of BMW OEM parts and the poor value they represent compared to aftermarket parts. I can't wait to find out how much money I'll save shopping for 3er and 5er parts at Pep Boys...

dsjeepti

I agree with the idea of having BMW diagnose the initial problem and then going elsewhere to have it repaired. The problems are fist, BMW charges $ by the book @ $98 an hour just to "look". Also, my experience with other shops that are "willing" to touch a BMW end up charging close to their rates when all is said and done. I usually would save $50 - $75 per $500 job which IMO was not worth it since BMW techs. "should" do it better (if at least right). Finally as div2 seems to indicate with regards to parts, aftermarket, is not always avail. The independents I've been to tend to shop BMW for parts (or charge similarly for aftermarket if avail.)
Thanks for the input and support, DS

q45man

Sure do it yourself can save 30-50% of parts [ordered over INET] and most hobbiest are happy to self charge $25 an hour for their weekend labor.....but how many have lifts and compressed air and $20,000 in specialty tools.

Independents must charge to keep the door open and many actually pay the lead BMW technican more than dealers......why he is working there.....other overheads may be a little lower but they pay MORE for oem parts than dealer so they make less margin in that area......it is usually a fight to run a business if you charge more than $10-$15 less per hour and the same for parts!

div2

Boy, you've got that right; I don't know how I'd do an oil change/tune-up/brake job on my cars without "lifts and compressed air and $20,000 in specialty tools". Regardless, it's nice to meet an Infiniti owner with such an exhaustive and encyclopedic knowledge of BMWs and their repair and service. I, on the other hand, must rely on the meager knowledge I've gained from owning BMWs(E9, E28, E24, E36/5, and E39 Platforms-M30, M42, S38, and M52 engines)since 1983.
Now for a change of pace, lets look at some actual data...
The PO of my E39 used a local BMW dealer to replace the front pads and rotors in January 2001
Parts:$304.87 Labor:185.00 Supplies:$14.00
Total:$503.87
My independent shop performed the same job in January 2003-using BMW OEM parts
Parts:$257.00 Labor:$120.00 Supplies:$5.00
Total:$382.00
Here's another comparison-same E39
Inspection II- Dealer:$578.43 February 2000
Inspection II- Indep: $208.06 February 2002
Here's a final example- from my E36/5
Inspection II- Dealer:$544.20 September 1998
Inspection II- Indep: $357.35 January 2003
It looks like I'm "only" saving from $120-$350 per visit. Makes sense to me.
dsjeepti makes some inconsistent statements as well-
He says that he goes to a dealer(and pays more) because they "should do it better (if at least right)" yet he complains about the dealer service.
He talks about the car "self destructing" while in almost every case the "destruction" is a repair virtually any car would need at the equivalent mileage.
Finally, he could save 10%-25% on parts and/or service by joining BMW CCA but he can't figure out how to get to the web site. Hint: It's www.bmwcca.org
That's my final word on this tired subject; I'll let the rest of you BMW 'experts" hash it out from here...

dsjeepti

Let me start by saying that no one here (or at least me) would challenge your extensive knowledge and background with all your various BMWs over the years. I take what you say to heart and use it as ammo when necessary to let the dealer know there may be another way to look at an issue. But you, an intelligent, well versed individual must also realize that not everyone here has had the same experiences or results. We come to sites like this to gain knowledge from people like yourself. Many times it's out of frustration that we ask what may seem as stupid or obvious questions. But one thing that is NOT necessary is the sarcastic, high and mighty attitude that often comes across in your posts. As I said earlier, I listen and readily accept your advice. It just doesn't need to come across in a way that will ultimately inhibit people from wanting to participate in such a forum. Does anyone dare challenge or differ in their opinion from yours w/o getting verbally beat up or made to feel like an idiot?
As for the quotes you so nicely dissected, you may be taking them out of context. I go to my dealer because I have not found an independent that does acceptable work. I am therefore more upset when said dealer F's up or overcharges (as you have so enlightened me). The "self destruct" issue was discussed on the virtues of leasing v. owning and what could (and did) happen over time. You even agree that eventually, if you're not mechanically inclined, repairs will start to add up and be expensive. Exactly my point. As for the CCA mention, I should have been more clear and said I was not able to get into the site to ask someone/anyone about an independent shop in Brooklyn, NY. Yes I was looking to get an answer w/o spending the $35 to join and then waiting 4 or so weeks for the # to get in. No one ever said you had to be an "expert" to participate in this forum. Sometimes a little support and understanding is all we are looking for (not to mention some solid advice w/o the attitude).
BTW, I DID join the BMWCCA today and am eagerly awaiting my membership info. Perhaps I'll finally find a local mechanic that won't rip me off and fix the car right the fist time, w/o a 3-4 week wait for an appointment:)
Sorry for long post, DS

div2

First of all, I'd like you to point out even one post where I have ridiculed someone for asking an "obvious" question. OTOH, if someone makes a statement that is dead wrong, I will call them on it. The two people who discussed aftermarket part prices and independent repair shop costs are perfect examples. They don't even own BMWs-if we are to believe their profiles. Should I simply let their unsupported and incorrect statements go unchallenged? How will that benefit those who come to this topic to learn about their cars?
Now, your situation was different; in your case I was responding to what I considered to be a broad generalization regarding BMWs-"Things start self destructing as you near 100,000 miles." You aren't driving a time bomb, you are simply experiencing the additional expenses that any car of that age and mileage will tend to incur.
FWIW, I purchased a 1999 Jeep Wrangler last May. Since then I've had to deal with a wet right floorboard, intermittent gauge operation, and a leaky radiator. I suppose I could have popped into various TH topic and told everyone what a junky vehicle Jeep builds, but I didn't. Instead, I did a little research on a couple of Jeep boards and obtained information that allowed me to repair the water leak and gauges myself for a total cost of less than one hour of my time and @$5 worth of parts. As for the radiator, I again used the internet to source a "blem" Modine unit-and had it installed by a local shop for a total cost of @$40 less than the cost of the D-C radiator alone. My point? Simply this: ANYONE in my position could have done the same thing. You just need a little determination and the willingness to do some internet research. Joining BMW CCA is a great first step.

bmw323is

Bravo on your post above. I agree. Welcome to BMWCCA. I hope your future experiences with BMW will be better ones. When you get your first issue of Roundel Magazine, you will find a section on Club Services listing several Technical Service Advisors. You can call on any one of them (at the times listed) and they will try to help on technical issues. And the parts discounts for club memebers sound like they will come in handy.

wlyp

Hi, I became a BMW owner about half a year ago. (I'm totally loving the car!) I'm wondering if Town Hall members here can help me explain some strange thing happened to my 330xi. Several days ago, the audio panel in my car suddenly stopped working. Changing radio stations, ejecting CD, etc., none worked. The only thing that remained working was the audio control dial. So I made an appointment with the dealer to take a look at it. Then several days later (today) before the appointment ever comes, the panel suddenly started working again. Any suggestion on what might have gone wrong? Should I still have my car checked out just in case?

Another question about cleaning the engine compartment under the hood. What's the best way of cleaning the section? How often should I clean it? Anything I should know to avoid damaging anything? Thanks a lot!

div2

More than a few E46 owners have had the audio display problem you described. Some dealers replace the panel while others make you wait to see if the problem occurs again. You might want to talk to your service advisor before you bring it in; no point in wasting a trip if they aren't going to do anything about it.
As for engine claening, you might try the Jim Powell method:
http://www.apexcone.com/TechProcedures/EngineBayCleaning/ArmorAll- - .html I use a variation of Jim's procedure on my 3er: I clean the cold engine with undiluted Simple Green, spray off, and follow with Lexol Vinylex. I am careful with the water spray and avoid spraying connectors and other electrical parts.

nomadnyc

Hi guys:

The other day I was cleaning my interior leatherette (2002 325xi) when I noticed a very small tear on the corner (towards the opening) of the passenger side door. It seems to be a clean cut and for the life of me can't imagine what would have done it. I have two questions:

1) Has anyone had any similar problems? What I am asking is could this be a 'defect' in the leatherette? I don't think so but figured I ask. We have two older bmwers and this has never happened.

2) Does anyone know whether such a thing can be repaired? Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

walter12

While not knowing what caused your leatherette tear, I would take it back to the dealer and ask them to repair it under warranty. After all, your car is a 2002 and the upholstery should wear better than you indicated. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

nomadnyc

Yes. That is exactly what I am going to do. I will post results.

Thanks for your input.

billherrmann

My "03 330xi has a noticeable hesitation when upshifting [particularly in the lower gears]. Dealer says this is 'normal'. I have only my previous ownership experience with Acura, Buick, Infinity, Honda, Lexus, Nissan etc. to compare. All were, in comparison, FAR more seamless. I apologise for bringing this minor irritation to this Problem board. Any comments will be very much appreciated.

div2

Ask the dealer to let you drive another 330xi so you that will have a valid basis for comparison. If the other xi shifts in a similar fashion then you have your answer. I haven't heard about any software upgrades for your xi, but that doesn't mean that BMW hasn't issued one. My gut reaction say that the shift quality of your car is normal, but long range diagnosis are not noted for their accuracy. Sorry I can't be of more help.

dan_bmw

I just ordered a 2003 330i 5 sp w/ PP, bi-xenon, met.paint, and heated seats - Orient Blue with grey leather. My purchase price is $38,200 the MSRP is $4070.00 and my order interval was suppose to be 8 weeks. I decided to take a 36 mo./12K mi. prepayment lease (taxes included) with a $5589 (including first payment)up front payment and $440.00 per mo. - $4500.00 is refunded at the end of the lease towards the purchase of new 530i (which is the car I really wanted)or towards another lease. The residual on the car at the lease end was $24,843. I think I got a good deal and I still have a choice between lease and buy (as I said I am leasing).
However, I think I am starting to experience some post sale problems. I have found that there are a lot of very sincere and knowledgeable people on this site and I would really appreciate your help with the following:

I ordered the car on 2/27/03 and the sales guy told me he would schedule the car for a March build and I would get it by mid April. On 3/7/03,I received a call stating that it could not be built until early April and that I could expect delivery in the second week of May. I was told that the residual would be reduced to $24,442 but my monthly payment would go from $440 to $452 per month. Now this really ticked me off and I was going to cancel but I let it go for now. I do not intend to pay the additional $12.00 per month. I asked for a tracking number on the new car and he said he would get it to me the following week. The following week I had my wife call (on 3/13/03) for the tracking information and he pushed her off until the next week. I intend to go see him this Monday and find out what is going on. My question is how soon can he get a tracking or production number and shouldn't he have it by now? If he gets me the number, how do I go about getting information on what stage of production my car is at? In years past, on two other occasions, I have been painfully screwed by other sales types and I have become very skeptical about what they tell me. I have no problem cancelling and getting my $1000 deposit back and then I will raise all kinds of hell with the dealer owner, BMW Regional and the consumer agencies. Am I being paranoid or have I reason for concern? Any advice at this point would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dan

kdshapiro

I'm not sure if the dealer was within their rights or not to do what they did. You have to read the fine print on the contract, and then decide for yourself if it worth persuing this car from this dealer.

In my book, after the dealer and I reach and agreement, the only change to the contract is either one of us has the right to cancel the order, unless agreed to the by both.

gerry18

My '96 318ti/1.9L engine / 74,000 miles won't start. Sounds like the starter motor turns, but doesn't engage - solenoid? I would have tapped it with a hammer to knock it free, but can't see it without jacking up the car. Any others have starters go on theirs? And where is it?

gerry18

OK, now I've jacked the car and I still do not see the starter. I had expected to find it at the near the engine/clutch interface, but don't see anything that looks like a starter. Changing starters used to be a simple task. Guess I'm stuck calling for a tow to the dealer.

div2

If you aren't familiar with BMWs you really shouldn't attempt any maintenance/repair without a good service manual. For the E36 I like the Robert Bentley 3 Series manual. Even though it doesn't cover the E36/5(ti) it will provide necessary service and repair info for most everything on your car save the rear suspension and a few of the interior bits. As for the starter, it is located under the intake manifold on the left(driver's side) of the engine compartment. You need to remove the dipstick bracket, the wiring terminal nuts, and the two M10 bolts which secure the starter. It's a pretty tough job if you don't have a lift. Some guys remove the intake manifold instead, which is a pain in and of itself... On installation the M10 bolts are torqued to 37 ft-lb. The small terminal nut is torqued to 53 INCH-lb while the larger nut is torqued to 9 lb-ft.

alyson3

Aloha!

I have an '03 325i, sports package w/ power seats. After two weeks of ownership, I would hear a tiny squeak on the driver's seat when I sat down or got up. But this squeak was only occasional. Now, 2 1/2 months into ownership, the squeak is still only occasional, but more and more frequent.

I called BMW Honolulu and was told that there are no springs in the seats and they couldn't help me. I live on the Big Island and we don't have a BMW dealership here.

Although this situation is extremely minor in comparison to other postings here, I would be most appreciative of any feedback.

Mahalo!

rwong1998

I have a 2002 330xi with sports seats and also have a squeak in the seats when I get out of the car. When I took it in for an oil change they looked into this (unfortunately the shop was very noisy so they could not hear it when I tried to duplicate the squeak) and said they could not hear anything but they would lubricate a couple of the spots underneath the seats. Well when I got the car back the squeak was still there. As you say it is not a major annoyance, so I figure next time I go in again for something else I will have them look at it again...let me know how you make out!

alyson3

Mahalo, rwong1998.

If I ever do find out the culprit of the squeak, I'll be sure to let you know.

Happy Driving!
alyson

ansel1oh

My passenger headrest rattles on my 2002 325i. It's just enough to be annoying.

I put my hand around the headrest as I was driving home tonight and actually noticed the headrest vibrating a lot whereas the driver's side did not (not sure if that's because I was sitting in the drivers side and there was some compression going on...anyway....)

Dealer looked at, did really nothing, and said you can't put it past 45 degrees. If I had to guess, my seat is at 80 degrees, so that's not the issue.

Anybody else have this issue, or know where to look?

Thanks,
Ansel

chile96

If you noticed alot of "vibration" in that part of the car, consider a defective tire or loose wheel on the opposite side of the car. Atleast that was the first thing to pop into my mind when I read your post!

kdshapiro

I had so many rattles in my car at one time it was driving me crazy. After spending a bit of time analyzing the problem, I found it was loose cd cases in my trunk and a pair of glasses rattling in my glove box. The trouble is it's hard to pinpoint the cause of rattles, especially when the car starts to fill up with stuff and your doing 60 on the highway.

I'm not suggesting these rattles aren't real, but in my case it was the stuff that was rattling making it seem like the components were rattling. I found that stuff on the seats rattles, making it seem like it's coming from the posts.

rshaw11

I have had my 2002 325i for almost a year now and still can't figure out the air conditioning system. I have to keep the temperature set at 62 degrees, or lower to make the interior comforatble; when the center vent control is on the two blue dots the air gets louder and softer at different times, must be some type of air distribution system, but the manual doesn't explain it. After I shut off the air, I get a REALLY bad smell. And the car doesn't cool down without the air conditioner being on very well.

kdshapiro

I push the manual override to send the air through the center vents. Move the wheel on the center vents that contains the red and blue dots, downward past the notch to the locked position, until the three blue dots are in the center.

If your air doesn't blow ice cold after you press the snowflake button, bring it in. I keep the air at 69. Set the recirculate button to the position, where a green led is light on the left.

The softer/louder noise you hear is the automatic air distribution system.

cmfas55

I bought a 2000 323CI two weeks ago with 40K miles and have used it 4 times so far (it's garaged the rest of the time).

1. The sensor panel showed the front passenger headlight low or out and then the next time I started it it showed the rear driver light low or out. I checked the lights and they appear to be working well.

2. I went to open it up and found that although the lock popped up, the driver door wouldn't open. I got in on the passenger side and re-tried from the inside but it still wouldn't open. It took about 5 minutes for it to eventually open up on its own.

Anyone have these problems? BTW I absolutely love everything about the car.

gtom71

I've got some questions about a car I'm looking to buy. It's a 2002 325i w/ 18k miles. I have checked Carfax and Experian and the car checks out okay. I had a friend in NYPD run the VIN through 50 states and auto crime and it checks out ok. I called BMW NA and the car is still under warranty. I called the selling BMW dealer and they say the car has never been brought in for it's scheduled service. The dealer told me the car was leased and returned early. I'm buying the car from a non-franchised used dealer who bought the car at auction. Only thing is it's got a small ding on the wheel well, but relatively minor. I do plan on getting the car inspected by a mechanic and through my own physical inspection. My question is do the BMW dealers always log the cars in when they come in for inspection? Is there anyway a lemon can slip through or do BMW technicians have to log all problems. I've done a very extensive search into the history of the car and everything seems fine except for the fact that the car was never brought in for service. Also when I do bring this car in to the dealer, will they check to make sure that there are no problems under any of the Technical Service Bulletins?

Since the car has only 18k, I'm not too worried, considering BMW's 15k service intervals. The car is being offered at a sweetheart price. If I pick the carup, you will be sure that it will be watched over carefully. Thanks for any advice.

Mr_Shiftright

Carfax won't show all problems. The car could have sustained quite severe damage and it will never show in public records. So you need to check for body damage.

Sounds like a typical auction "mystery car". Perhaps another dealer serviced it?

Anyway, might be a good deal. You can only investigate as best you can and then rely on your own common sense. You have to look at the car and listen to what it is telling you. Don't "want it" so bad that you forgive all the danger signs in other words.

bmwguru

Since the car is still under warranty, and maintainance is covered for the first 50k miles, the dealer would have records of any service. Scheduled inspections are considered warranty service and a dealer would be able to run a warranty history on the car. And would also see what recalls are open on the car. My advice is to find an independent car inspection company to go over it before you buy.

gtom71

My own inspection said the car was clean. I had an indy mechanic check it out and he said it was a great car, he thought I got a great deal. Only might need rotor change after about another 6k miles.

Shiftright - Actually the dealer I spoke to checked the BMW national database and saw no service done.

bmwguru - actually full maintenance is covered for 3yrs/36k. I believe the rotors should be covered too, based on what I've read about other owners experience.

Anyone recommend a good dealer service dept in NJ?

wlyp

A nail recently got into the rear tire of my BMW 330xi Since the nail is at the corner of the tire, the tire shop said it's not safe to just patch it, and that I had to order a replacement tire. I called the dealer parts department, and the quote I got was $222.62 (for Eagle RS-A tire size 205/50R17). I wonder if anybody knows if this is a "normal" price. I would also appreciate it if you could offer some advise on what I should do. Now I'm driving with the full-size spare tire.

Another question I have is regarding the balancing weight on the tires. I had a conversation with a mechanic at the tire shop. He said that BMW should not have put the balancing weight on the outside of the rim. Given BMW's rim design, it should be put inside the rim. It's both more pleasant to the eye and technically the better way to balance the tires. Is it really true?

Thank you!

erickpl

I don't know of any NJ dealers, but check the 3 or 5 series forums. Shipo is a very well respected poster there and used to live in NJ. I'm sure he could point you to a good dealer for service.

For recalls, you should be able to have them addressed since the car is only a 2001. I'm not sure how this works, but I thought recalls were independent of the warranty period. I could be wrong though. My 2002 needs to go in for a recall just announced at the end of March. But I'm due for my next inspection anyway, so I'll take care of it then.

As for the balancing, I thought weights would go on either side of the rim, depending on how the tire balanced on the machine. My Jeep has some weights on both sides of the rim (inside and outside). My 325xi has a couple of weights on the outside, but when you're going 80+ mph, nobody can see them anyway.

-Paul

bmw323is

If you can wait a few days, order a tire the The Tire Rack (tirerack.com). They are normally much less expensive. Their web site has information aobut ordering and installation. Dealers are going to be more expensive than tire stores for buying tires.

By the way, I believe that a good tire shop puts the balancing weights on the inside, but it seems that few do this. I don't know why? Why not hide the ugly little weights? My friend with a classic Corvette insists on putting the weights on the inside, and they do it.

rar1972

Hello everyone I`m new to this board and would appreciate any help from you guys.I own a 99 328I,and just recently the steering wheel is shaking when I hit the brakes. It`s been a pretty bad winter and I don`t drive the car to often mostly on the weekends, which means I haven`t washed it either. So the front wheels have a lot of brake dust build up. Could this be my problem?Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

kdshapiro

Shaking when stepping on the brakes is indicative of warped rotors. I've that this issue a number of times on a number of vehicles. Either the rotors can be turned if there is enough life on them or they have to be replaced.

ss2u2

rar1972, I,m a newbie on this thread, but I experienced the same thing after my car(02 330cic) had sat unused outside for 3 weeks, this last Chicago february. Mechanic friend told me warped rotors. Made service appt. next day. After one day of use the shimmy went away, never to return...I took it in anyway and ofcourse bmw told me both rotors and pads were within specs. fwiw I'm saying that there may be a build up on rotor/pads that will correct with time?

bmwguru

You cannot turn the rotors for BMWs. You will damage them further as they are a lot softer metal than other brake rotors. The E46 has a problem with the control arms and bushings. They were recalled.When the control bushing wears out, you can get a vibration or shake when braking. And most BMWs over time will need to have the control arm bushings replaced at some point. Brake dust would not cause a vibration.

330xi

I notice a disturbing low-pitched, harmonic engine noise at 60-80mph and about 3000 RPM in my new (2003) 330xi. Others have reported this in the 330i, but I have not heard of a reason or a solution. Any suggestions?

redkey1

I am considering purchasing a loaded '99 323i from a Mini / BMW dealer. It has 75k miles and is priced at 16,900. Due to the high milegae it does not have a warranty, so I am considering purchase of a 60k / 5 yr (2008 / 135k mi) warranty for 2800. Any thoughts or suggestions? I appreciate the help.

covergirl1

I TOO, HAVE A 2003 BMW 330I THAT STALLS BEFORE IT SHIFTS GEARS- ESPECIALLY IN LOW GEARS.HELP!

kdshapiro

Bring it back to the dealer and demonstrate the problem to them. They should fix it. Cars with automatic transmissions should not stall.

ajl1000

Hi!
I purchased a CPO 2000 323i about 2 months ago. Recently, my windows have been making a creaking noise that seems identical to the problem the Edmund's editors experienced with their Long Term 328i. It creaks when I roll it up or down and after being rolled up, it will continually creak every few minutes, especially over bumps. Has anyone experienced something like this before or knows what is going on?

Thanks,
ajl1000

BTW - I read that there were recalls on the 2000 3-series, but I wasn't sure how to check if anything was done to my vehicle. As I bought it used, I didn't know if the previous owner had had any work done concerning the recalls. Can anyone tell me how to check?

bmwguru

Ajl1000 take it to a BMW dealer and have them run a warranty history. It tells what warranty services have been performed on the car. And what recalls are still open on it. There was a problem with door seals on the E46 3 series. It wasn't a recall, but it was fairly common. It may be the window regulator, another common problem.

erickpl

Has anybody found a good documented fix for the E46 squeaky seat belt tensioners? I have seen some posts about using a lot of felt, but is there any other documented process for dealing with this?

-Paul

motorcity3

I have a question about a possible problem. For the past few days my a/c (fan) has been acting up. It comes in and out as I am driving. I am not talking about the fan blowing stronger and then weaker. I am talking the fan stopping blowing all together. I look at the auto-climate and it is half way up but the fan has stopped blowing. Even when I raise the fan speed I still get nothing. Sometimes it comes in a few minutes later and then goes out again. Other times it goes out and does not start again unless I shut off and restart the car. Has anyone had this problem? Is it a known problem? I own a 2001 325i about 23K miles.

Thank you for any information.

bmwguru

It sound like the A/C control unit is bad. It is a somewhat common problem though not a recall.

jgravel

I'm about to order my first BMW. Anything in particular I should look for in my final test drive?

Seems to be a fair number of 325/330xi owners on this bd, has the AWD been a problem?

Thanks