BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • prk1965prk1965 Member Posts: 4
    I dropped the car off Tuesday night and when they called Wednesday afternoon, they recommended the transmission replacement which would take one day. i picked up the car last night and this morning..no slipping. Hopefully that's the end of it. The car was cleaned/washed thoroughly and it looked brand new...It still has only 608 miles on it. Let's hope it lasts.
  • jrkflajrkfla Member Posts: 21
    Just bought this used, with 42k on it, has the extended warranty to 50k.

    The car has two issues that bug me:

    1. driver window rattles alot, very noticeable. Assuming this is a warranty item.

    2. Alot of road nosie from car. It has 17x8 tires, with about 20k on them, seem to have good amount of tread left. however, the road noise is higher than other 300ci's i've driven. Do you suggest any remedies? I would change tires and even possibly downsize to a rim that is not as wide, but want to look at all options before making that decision. The tires are low profile, which will increase road noise, but wondering what are my options

    Thanks for your suggestions
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,571
    20K is lot of miles for a performance tire.. They get noisy quickly. Although it might be specific to the tires you have on the car. What brand and model of tire?

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • jrkflajrkfla Member Posts: 21
    thanks very much for replying.

    Kumho ecsta supra
    225/45zr17 91 W

    never heard of these tires, they are not the original tires

    thoughts?
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    I also have a 330Ci. I replaced my Kumho Ecstas three weeks ago (~22K miles). They were pretty quiet up to about 12K or 14K miles but then got progressively louder until the end of their life. New tires should help a lot.

    FWIW, my new tires are Yokohama AVS ES100's and they're starting out about as noisy as the Kumho's were 1/2 way through their usable life. If tire noise is a big concern for you, I would recommend you stay away from them.
  • naknak Member Posts: 2
    Bought a 325 xi in Feb with sports package. From the first week, a whirring sound came from front engine. Sounds like something stuck in a fan-altho noise happens whether the fan or a/c is on or not. The noise gets faster as car goes faster and vice versa. Doesn't happen all the time but at least once a day I'm greeted with it for some length of time. (Drove it at dealership 5 x and it didn't happen while we were there. Frustrating!) It's not super loud but it is irritating as anything. There is also a high pitched sound from the engine when car is in idle. Doesn't happen all the time, but when it does it's noticeable and equally irritating.

    Any thoughts? Dealer has no advice to offer. Specialty rep came out this past week and also had no insight. Such a beautiful car but these noises are annoying. (Never had such problems with my '98 Civic!) Any ideas? Thx everyone.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,571
    This is your problem.. Kumho is a budget tire, and known for being noisy. To get a quieter tire, you are going to have to spend more money and move up to Michelin or Bridgestone. Dunlop makes a tire that fits that tirerack says is pretty quiet also.. Kumho, Sumitomo, and Yokohama are known for being fairly noisy as soon as they get some miles on them.

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • sfguy1sfguy1 Member Posts: 4
    Bought a 2003 325xi in February. Have put up over 6000 miles on it. The only problem that concerns me is that the car stalls at times when I go into reverse gear. Does anyone have the same problem? What should I do?

    Thanks,
    sfguy1
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Sounds normal to me. Prior to my first BMW, a 1999 328i, I couldn't remember when I'd last stalled a manual shift car (maybe something like 1977?), however, with the 328i, unless I was very careful, I would stall it once or twice a month, always in reverse. :-/ Since upgrading to a 530i, the situation has continued, I probably stall that one three or four times a year, and once again, always in reverse.

    I do have a theory regarding this situation; my guess is that the BMW I6 engines have both light weight/low friction internals and a light flywheel. The combination of the two would require less fuel to keep the engine idling at say 700 rpms. The end result is that as you are easing your car into a reverse direction, you don't typically apply as much power as you would when going forward, and with such low rotational mass, there just isn't enough rotational torque to absorb the engagement of the clutch.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanical engineer, and this is as near as I can work out the answer to this puzzle.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • chicagodukechicagoduke Member Posts: 3
    I have a new 3300xi--less than 200 miles--and have noticed a slight vibration as I release the clutch in first gear. The vibration is accompanied by a chattering sound. None of this feels or sounds serious, but I wonder if this is a normal part of the break-in process or whether this signals a developing problem.

    Anyone have any clues?

    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, that does not sound normal to me. I'd be inclined to talk to my service manager about it.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • cat244cat244 Member Posts: 5
    Hi Nak,

    If you look in past posts, I had a whining noise with my brand new 325ci as well. At first, the service department said it was normal, but after several complaints, they finally ran a diagnostic, and realized something was in the fuel tank to make the high pitched sound. They ended up replacing the entire fuel tank, and since then no sound!
  • thomaspeterdubthomaspeterdub Member Posts: 20
    My new '04 manual shift 330Ci with SP at idle was vibrating more than what I consider normal and it manifested in a vibrating steering wheel and shifter. It almost felt like the car was going to stall, but it did not stall. It did however stall on three occasions while waiting at traffic lights, but this may well have been due to lower octane gas and had nothing to do with my complaint, but the vibration just did not seem right.

    I took the car to the dealer twice. The first time they said all was normal. What else is new! The second time they increased the idle speed to about 800 RPM. The vibration is till coming through the steering wheel and shifter, but the car no longer stalls. But with the higher idle speed, I have a tougher time in reverse as the car just wants to take off on me.

    My wife drives a 325 manual. No such problem, as the car idles very smoothly and the 330 auto loaner provided by the dealer also ran smoothly.

    It is not a real big deal, but it is annoying to have this vibration in the steering wheel and the shifter. Anyone else with similar problem or suggestions? Should not the idle be correctable so it does not come through the steering wheel quite as much? Thanks.
  • naknak Member Posts: 2
    Thx for taking time to reply. I will ask the service dept to do exactly that. Hopefully they can tackle at least one noise!
  • foalfoal Member Posts: 1
    This is a little late but I just found your message. I have a 2002 325ci. In February I went sking and the car sat in the parking lot for about 4 days. On the way home, the coolant light came on and I had to add about 3 quarts. I didn't lose any more coolant and the coolant level remained constant while driving around home (LA). In March I went skiing again and had the exact same experience. I suspect the water pump seal but the dealer couldn't find any problem with the pressure test.
  • bmwphdbmwphd Member Posts: 4
    Hi,
    While checking the engine oil with the engine cold I notice a white residue on the dipstick. If I check the oil level with the engine hot I do not see the residue.

    Is the residue caused by water being present in the oil? If so, where could it come from? Could it be from the fuel or perhaps cooling water leaks into the lubrication system?

    I appreciate any comments you might have.

    Iulian
  • sinestrsinestr Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone out there can give me some advice on the problems I am having with my 98 M3 sedan.

    1) Have an air conditioning problem. Turn AC on, often you feel a jerk and then the air gets warm and engine starts to move into the overheat zone, feel another jerk and air gets cool and car starts to cool down. Dealership tells me my secondary (A/C) fan needs to be replaced and says it will cost 750.00. How much does one of those cost and where is the cheapest place to buy one. Also can I replace it myself with the help of a repair book like Chilton's or The Repair guide. Or is it too difficult for a weekend warrior.

    2) After the A/C problem with my fan, my A/C control now does not work. I cannot turn on the AC or anything thru the control console. Some symptoms. I can be driving and the heat will blow out at my feet without me turning anything on or off and the amount of heat will depend on how fast I am going. Also sometimes the A/C will just come on with the Auto light lit and I cannot turn it off or change it in any way. And the amount of that depends on how fast I am going. And then rarely, the A/C will come on and I can turn off the fan which does turn it off but it will come on and off at will.

    I hope this makes sense. Bottom line is that I cannot use the AC as it will not accept input from me and acts very strange coming on and off at will. These are my problems and I am hoping with the right book to be able to fix some of these things myself.

    Thanks for reading.......
  • motenor1motenor1 Member Posts: 35
    i have an 04 325i stick shift. the yellow engine oil light comes on after i shut off the engine. what spcific type of oil do i need to use to top it off? i live in sacramento california (as if it makes a difference)...
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Go to your dealership, they should add the oil for free as part of the scheduled maintenance program.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • flyf1shflyf1sh Member Posts: 12
    Hey, it's nice to see a local boy. I just purchased a 325i from a dealer in the east bay area. how was your experience in Sac? Did you purchase an extended warranty by chance.
  • flyf1shflyf1sh Member Posts: 12
    Doesn't the 4 yr/50K mile maintenance cover everything. This is a manufacturer warranty isn't it??
  • scut_monkeyscut_monkey Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2002 325Ci and it has about 21K miles on it. The problem I've been having in the past 2 months is w/ the ignition.

    There's no problem w/ a cold start but then when I try to start it thereafter, it either takes multiple tries to get it started or it starts up sluggishly. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem or if someone can give me a suggestion on what the problem might be (starter? battery? engine?). Thanks.
  • bmwnabmwna Member Posts: 32
    I’m with BMW of North America, LLC. I’m sorry to read about this problem with your 330Ci. If you and your BMW center need our assistance, please phone us at (800) 831-1117, and mention Reference #200414800126 so that we can help you more efficiently.

    BMW NA Customer Relations
  • bmwman2bmwman2 Member Posts: 12
    THE MAINTENANCE PROGRAM DOES NOT COVER EVERYTHING...IT COVERS THE ITEMS LISTED IN YOUR BMW SERVICE MANUAL, PLUS A FEW WEAR ITEMS.

    REMEMBER "RIF"? READING IS FUNDAMENTAL!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,571
    Please take off the CAPS....

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  • moonmoon Member Posts: 2
    I have 2000 323i that I bought it last year.I have couple of problem with my car since last year.

     1.high speed whistling noise at 65mph.Dealer install extra isolate pad all around my enging area,also replace both lower control arm bushing,cause torn.After they replace these things my car get more quiet and smoother.
     2.clunking noise from rear when braking.Dealer reset rear axle controller(I have no idea what that was).The noise gone.
     3.high speed noise between 75 to 80 mph(I began to hear this noise after dealer reser controller and rotate tires).Dealer cannot be drive my car above speed limit,Therefore cannot be check.Dealer checked rear axle,oil lever and wheel.Everything was normal.They said only possiblity is tire.This noise really annoying me.anyone have any ideas for this issue please let me know.
  • njdriver2njdriver2 Member Posts: 40
    Very seriously considering buying a 330 with performance package. The car is fast and looks awesome. Right now I own an '04 TL and I am very unhappy with the car so I am trading it in. Yeah, I know, I will lose some money. Oh well, life is too short. Anyway, does anyone have this car and how do you like it? I'd love feedback I likes and dislikes. Also, does anyone have the handsfree phone? If so, please let me know if you like it. I heard that bmw has a bluetooth option. finally, how do you manage in the winter with this car? do you have a second set of rims or do you just swap the tires with snows? thanks!
  • webby1webby1 Member Posts: 209
    I was very close to buying a TL but purchased 330I 5 weeks ago and I can honestly tell you that I am glad I did not purchase the TL.
    This car is fun to drive with ample power, no torque steer, no tire problems and rattle free ( so far ).
    After driving Hondas/Acuras for almost 30yrs it is a joy to go back to RWD !
    What are the issues with your TL ?
  • njdriver2njdriver2 Member Posts: 40
    Very seriously considering buying a 330 with performance package. The car is fast and looks awesome. Right now I own an '04 TL and I am very unhappy with the car so I am trading it in. Yeah, I know, I will lose some money. Oh well, life is too short. Anyway, does anyone have this car and how do you like it? I'd love feedback I likes and dislikes. Also, does anyone have the handsfree phone? If so, please let me know if you like it. I heard that bmw has a bluetooth option. finally, how do you manage in the winter with this car? do you have a second set of rims or do you just swap the tires with snows? thanks!
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    "Managing in the winter". DSC+ all season *WILL* get you through the winter, however not as optimally as snows, which will make the car unstoppable as far as the snow height vs clearance of the car goes.

    I made it through the winter without getting stuck. There were a few bad days and then I took the big suv too work, but on those days the FWD couldn't make it either. Basically, if the snow is over the bumper, leave it home.
  • njdriver2njdriver2 Member Posts: 40
    The TL is very nice looking and has plenty of power, but is not a performance car in my view. The FWD is creates torque steer. If you accelerate and hit a crack or bump in the road the steering wheel almost yanks out of your hand. The ride is too "springy". It's weird. something you have experience. I have squeaks coming out of every area of the car. paint is chipping at scary rate. car vibrates at 50 to 60 and is uncomfortable to drive. also, i rented a g35 during my last business trip and really liked that car so i decided life is too short and it time to get what i want, a true performance car. when i go home i drove the c320 and then the zhp 330. both cars were nice, but the zhp felt like a race car. the 6 speed was so easy to drive that i am surprised that i ever considered an automatic.

    now i am just trying to figure out if i go leather or alcantra. also, i would like to have satelite radio and bluetooth. don't know if these can be added without trashing the car. i am looking at titanium silver, xenons, cold package, moonroof, and performance package. i can't stop thinking about the engine noise. how about maintenance? do you get worried that you will be in the shop constantly?
  • webby1webby1 Member Posts: 209
    "now i am just trying to figure out if i go leather or alcantra. also, i would like to have satelite radio and bluetooth. don't know if these can be added without trashing the car. i am looking at titanium silver, xenons, cold package, moonroof, and performance package. i can't stop thinking about the engine noise. how about maintenance? do you get worried that you will be in the shop constantly?"

    I got the Premium Package
     
     Includes: Auto Dimming Mirror, Int., Electric Seats w/Driver Memory, Through Load w/Ski Bag, Lumbar Support, Harman Kardon Sound System, Montana Leather.
    Dod not get the M package since I found the ride to harsh...the std suspension was jus right for me. As far as quality and attention to details there is no comparison between the TL and 330i in my opinion.
    I can not comment on reliability but my friend (driven BMW forever )just bought a 2004 330ci and swears by the 2004 330i since this is the 6th year?
    So far I have nothing to complain about which is the first vehicle in 40 yrs that I do not a a list of warranty items to fix in first 2 weeks!
    Perhaps other can comment if I am just lucky with this one or perhaps the honneymoon is still on????
  • newbuyer30newbuyer30 Member Posts: 13
    thomaspeterdub,

    I'm having the same problem as you with my '04 330i manual...the rough idle, the "feels-like-it's-going-to-stall" feeling, actually stalling 3 times in the past month at slowing speeds or while waiting at traffic lights.

    I talked to a BMW-service supervisor in the DC area and he said that BMW is aware of this situation for their 330s and that they recommend using the mid-grade octane gas rather than the highest-grade (something about the high-grade is too rich and oxygen sensor reads incorrectly). But, it sounds like you have already tried this and it still stalls on you....

    Did you ever get the idling or the stalling resolved? I'm bringing my car in to the dealer next week. I'd hate to bring the car in twice like you did...

    It's very interesting that you said that the 330 loaner car ran smoothly. Makes me wonder if we have a defective sensor or ???

    Thanks.
  • robs_placerobs_place Member Posts: 24
    I have a 2003 325i sedan, 5sp, sports package.
    The car has always been pulling slightly to the right (it pulls a lot harder when braking). This condition existed since day 1. I brought it back to the dealer a few weeks after I had the car and the service department said that they didn't notice any pulling, that there wasn't anything that required fixing. I believed them (why should they turn down a warranty job).

    Since this is my first Bimmer I didn't know what to expect, didn't have any other BMW driving experience to compare it to and perhaps I was just having New Car Paranoia.

    It's been almost 1 year since then and the problem still exists. I'm positive that this is not the way a BMW should handle. I didn't have the luxury to take time off to have it checked again but the scheduled maintenance will be coming up soon, and will definitely be talking to the service department about it.

    As a sanity check, I welcome any comments, suggestions and experiences.

    Regards,

    Rob
  • joenyjoeny Member Posts: 9
    I have just passed the 1,200 mile mark on my first BMW, a 330xi manual which I purchased new three weeks ago.

    My gut is telling me that an oil change is in order since the break-in period is over but my service advisor assures me that a "first oil change" is not necessary and that I need not change the oil until the service indicator states it, somewhere in the vicinity of 15,000 miles. I am very uncomfortable with this though I have no experience with synthetic oils or BMW engines.

    I'm wondering if people follow the indicated intervals or change the oil more frequently? I drive in a fair amount of stop-and-go traffic in the NYC-metro area. Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I have seen several posts go by in the last six years that I have been following the various 3-Series discussions that indicate that BMW performs the initial break-in of their engines at the factory and then changes the oil there to the standard factory fill of synthetic before the engine is installed in the car.

    Regarding the 15,000 mile oil change (which is simply a baseline, the OBC actually tracks how you drive via your fuel use, and adjusts the interval accordingly), we just had a discussion about this very issue over on the "BMW 5-Series Owners: Problems & Solutions" topic. Over there I posted my views as to why I think that the target 15K interval is appropriate. There is also at least one dissenting view to keep things balanced. You might want to check it out. Don't worry; us 5-Series types won't bite if you pop your head in there. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • joenyjoeny Member Posts: 9
    Thanks, Shipo. I'll check it out.
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    For what it is worth, my 2002 3 series gets exactly the recommended service, no more no less.

    The last service 15K service was 5/2003, I am now waiting for the computer to indicate the next service is in order.

    You have to do what you feel comfortable with. There is evidence to point out the 15K service interval with the synthetic oil does not seem to hurt the engine reliability.
  • bmw323isbmw323is Member Posts: 410
    Rob, your car should not pull to the right, especially if it does it all the time and when braking. The larger tires of the sport packeage can have a tendancy to tramline on uneven pavement. Go for a test drive with the service advisor and let go of the wheel. If it pulls to the right at different times, he/she cannot argue that this is normal and they should consider doing a wheel alignment. If it only pulls sometimes then it may be a pavement issue. Mine certainly does this at times, but not all the time. Also make sure to look at the front tires for uneven wear.
  • glovesgloves Member Posts: 20
    I approach it this way. My expertise is the ability to make money to pay for the car. I'm not smarter than the guys who made it. I do what they recommend. So far, 45,000 miles on a 2000 328i, serviced according to factory recommendations - everything ok.
  • robs_placerobs_place Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for your input.
    Here's one more detail that perhaps you or others can help me with:
    The car pulls to the slightly to the right 90% of the times and when I brake, it pulls hard to the right. Once in a while it pulls to the left and likewise it pulls harder to the left when I brake.

    This rules out the brakes since the car can pull either side.
    I'm not sure if this is an alignment issue either because it doesn't pull in one direction 100% of the times.

    Now I wonder whether it's a suspension problem.
    Your comments are appreciated.
  • bmw323isbmw323is Member Posts: 410
    Rob, since the car pulls to the left (at least sometimes), it would seem to be pavement related. Does the car go straight when you are on good roads?

    If the problem is present more often than absent, I still recommend driving with a service advisor and show him/her the problem.
  • thomaspeterdubthomaspeterdub Member Posts: 20
    newbuyer30

    BMWNA got involved....they actually replied to my message on this board. I contacted them and they arranged for me to see the service advisor and shop foreman at the local dealership. The appointment is on 6/11. I will let you know if they resolve the problem.

    I do not believe that the excessive vibration has anything to do with the fuel. And, quite frankly, the stalling situation is certainly not due to the higher octane fuel. If anything, the middle grade fuel is what may have caused the stalling in my car in the first place!

    My stalling problem has been resolved, but as I stated above, it may have been caused by the middle grade fuel although the fact that it stopped after BMW raised the RPM from normal to about 800-850 is more likely why it has stopped stalling. Ultimately, the excessive vibration I experience may be due to a sensor or coil problem, but really don't know. What I do know, is that it should not be, given that I own three BMW's at the moment and have driven others and my new 330 Ci is the only one with this nagging excessive vibration.
  • garydoyle1garydoyle1 Member Posts: 8
    From the Department of Anal-Rententive Car Guys: after I wash my white car, I spray on that foam on the tires that makes them shiny. But then when I drive it, black specks (a lot) end up behind the wheels on the surface of the car, both behind the front and back wheels. It looks bad.
     
    Does anybody have a solution for this? Try a new product? Let it dry overnight?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,571
    Let it dry overnight, or try wiping off the excess after a few minutes... I think you knew this already...

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  • capriracercapriracer Member Posts: 907
    Dude,

    You're dissolving the tires. This is not good! Stop using that stuff immediately!

    Let us know what you are using so we won't be tempted to buy that stuff.
  • robs_placerobs_place Member Posts: 24
    The car pulls slightly even on the NJ Turnpike, although there is no pull from braking at highway speed.
    I will definitely go on a test drive with the service advisor instead of just dropping the car off and head to work.

    Thanks.
  • meineautomeineauto Member Posts: 6
    Hello.

    Has anyone experienced being "locked" inside their BMW? If yes, did the service department say what the problem is? I have a 2004 325ci. Recently, on 2 occasions, I couldn't open the driver's door from the inside...yes, the inside! When I pulled the handle twice to unlock the door, the door unlocked. However, the door wouldn't open & wouldn't budge at all! I had to put the window down, put my arm out the window and reach for the door handle and open the door. What a piece of crap! I'm so disappointed with BMW and the quality of the car, especially because it is new.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 267,571
    It sounds like you were locking it with the keyfob. You shouldn't ever do that with people inside. If you are using the central lock button, that shouldn't happen.

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  • jerryandjerryand Member Posts: 8
    I have a 92 325I. My windows will not work or Sunroof. They are not broken, because some days they will work. I checked the fuse for the windows,and they look good. I would check the relay, but I do not know which one to check. The BMW manual does not show the location of relay switch. When I open the fuse box, I see the relays, but have no idea which relay is for the windows. Can I get some help from a BMW owner.

    jerry
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