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The car has two issues that bug me:
1. driver window rattles alot, very noticeable. Assuming this is a warranty item.
2. Alot of road nosie from car. It has 17x8 tires, with about 20k on them, seem to have good amount of tread left. however, the road noise is higher than other 300ci's i've driven. Do you suggest any remedies? I would change tires and even possibly downsize to a rim that is not as wide, but want to look at all options before making that decision. The tires are low profile, which will increase road noise, but wondering what are my options
Thanks for your suggestions
regards,
kyfdx
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Kumho ecsta supra
225/45zr17 91 W
never heard of these tires, they are not the original tires
thoughts?
FWIW, my new tires are Yokohama AVS ES100's and they're starting out about as noisy as the Kumho's were 1/2 way through their usable life. If tire noise is a big concern for you, I would recommend you stay away from them.
Any thoughts? Dealer has no advice to offer. Specialty rep came out this past week and also had no insight. Such a beautiful car but these noises are annoying. (Never had such problems with my '98 Civic!) Any ideas? Thx everyone.
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks,
sfguy1
I do have a theory regarding this situation; my guess is that the BMW I6 engines have both light weight/low friction internals and a light flywheel. The combination of the two would require less fuel to keep the engine idling at say 700 rpms. The end result is that as you are easing your car into a reverse direction, you don't typically apply as much power as you would when going forward, and with such low rotational mass, there just isn't enough rotational torque to absorb the engagement of the clutch.
Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanical engineer, and this is as near as I can work out the answer to this puzzle.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Anyone have any clues?
Thanks
Best Regards,
Shipo
If you look in past posts, I had a whining noise with my brand new 325ci as well. At first, the service department said it was normal, but after several complaints, they finally ran a diagnostic, and realized something was in the fuel tank to make the high pitched sound. They ended up replacing the entire fuel tank, and since then no sound!
I took the car to the dealer twice. The first time they said all was normal. What else is new! The second time they increased the idle speed to about 800 RPM. The vibration is till coming through the steering wheel and shifter, but the car no longer stalls. But with the higher idle speed, I have a tougher time in reverse as the car just wants to take off on me.
My wife drives a 325 manual. No such problem, as the car idles very smoothly and the 330 auto loaner provided by the dealer also ran smoothly.
It is not a real big deal, but it is annoying to have this vibration in the steering wheel and the shifter. Anyone else with similar problem or suggestions? Should not the idle be correctable so it does not come through the steering wheel quite as much? Thanks.
While checking the engine oil with the engine cold I notice a white residue on the dipstick. If I check the oil level with the engine hot I do not see the residue.
Is the residue caused by water being present in the oil? If so, where could it come from? Could it be from the fuel or perhaps cooling water leaks into the lubrication system?
I appreciate any comments you might have.
Iulian
1) Have an air conditioning problem. Turn AC on, often you feel a jerk and then the air gets warm and engine starts to move into the overheat zone, feel another jerk and air gets cool and car starts to cool down. Dealership tells me my secondary (A/C) fan needs to be replaced and says it will cost 750.00. How much does one of those cost and where is the cheapest place to buy one. Also can I replace it myself with the help of a repair book like Chilton's or The Repair guide. Or is it too difficult for a weekend warrior.
2) After the A/C problem with my fan, my A/C control now does not work. I cannot turn on the AC or anything thru the control console. Some symptoms. I can be driving and the heat will blow out at my feet without me turning anything on or off and the amount of heat will depend on how fast I am going. Also sometimes the A/C will just come on with the Auto light lit and I cannot turn it off or change it in any way. And the amount of that depends on how fast I am going. And then rarely, the A/C will come on and I can turn off the fan which does turn it off but it will come on and off at will.
I hope this makes sense. Bottom line is that I cannot use the AC as it will not accept input from me and acts very strange coming on and off at will. These are my problems and I am hoping with the right book to be able to fix some of these things myself.
Thanks for reading.......
Best Regards,
Shipo
There's no problem w/ a cold start but then when I try to start it thereafter, it either takes multiple tries to get it started or it starts up sluggishly. Just wondering if anyone else had this problem or if someone can give me a suggestion on what the problem might be (starter? battery? engine?). Thanks.
BMW NA Customer Relations
REMEMBER "RIF"? READING IS FUNDAMENTAL!
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1.high speed whistling noise at 65mph.Dealer install extra isolate pad all around my enging area,also replace both lower control arm bushing,cause torn.After they replace these things my car get more quiet and smoother.
2.clunking noise from rear when braking.Dealer reset rear axle controller(I have no idea what that was).The noise gone.
3.high speed noise between 75 to 80 mph(I began to hear this noise after dealer reser controller and rotate tires).Dealer cannot be drive my car above speed limit,Therefore cannot be check.Dealer checked rear axle,oil lever and wheel.Everything was normal.They said only possiblity is tire.This noise really annoying me.anyone have any ideas for this issue please let me know.
This car is fun to drive with ample power, no torque steer, no tire problems and rattle free ( so far ).
After driving Hondas/Acuras for almost 30yrs it is a joy to go back to RWD !
What are the issues with your TL ?
I made it through the winter without getting stuck. There were a few bad days and then I took the big suv too work, but on those days the FWD couldn't make it either. Basically, if the snow is over the bumper, leave it home.
now i am just trying to figure out if i go leather or alcantra. also, i would like to have satelite radio and bluetooth. don't know if these can be added without trashing the car. i am looking at titanium silver, xenons, cold package, moonroof, and performance package. i can't stop thinking about the engine noise. how about maintenance? do you get worried that you will be in the shop constantly?
I got the Premium Package
Includes: Auto Dimming Mirror, Int., Electric Seats w/Driver Memory, Through Load w/Ski Bag, Lumbar Support, Harman Kardon Sound System, Montana Leather.
Dod not get the M package since I found the ride to harsh...the std suspension was jus right for me. As far as quality and attention to details there is no comparison between the TL and 330i in my opinion.
I can not comment on reliability but my friend (driven BMW forever )just bought a 2004 330ci and swears by the 2004 330i since this is the 6th year?
So far I have nothing to complain about which is the first vehicle in 40 yrs that I do not a a list of warranty items to fix in first 2 weeks!
Perhaps other can comment if I am just lucky with this one or perhaps the honneymoon is still on????
I'm having the same problem as you with my '04 330i manual...the rough idle, the "feels-like-it's-going-to-stall" feeling, actually stalling 3 times in the past month at slowing speeds or while waiting at traffic lights.
I talked to a BMW-service supervisor in the DC area and he said that BMW is aware of this situation for their 330s and that they recommend using the mid-grade octane gas rather than the highest-grade (something about the high-grade is too rich and oxygen sensor reads incorrectly). But, it sounds like you have already tried this and it still stalls on you....
Did you ever get the idling or the stalling resolved? I'm bringing my car in to the dealer next week. I'd hate to bring the car in twice like you did...
It's very interesting that you said that the 330 loaner car ran smoothly. Makes me wonder if we have a defective sensor or ???
Thanks.
The car has always been pulling slightly to the right (it pulls a lot harder when braking). This condition existed since day 1. I brought it back to the dealer a few weeks after I had the car and the service department said that they didn't notice any pulling, that there wasn't anything that required fixing. I believed them (why should they turn down a warranty job).
Since this is my first Bimmer I didn't know what to expect, didn't have any other BMW driving experience to compare it to and perhaps I was just having New Car Paranoia.
It's been almost 1 year since then and the problem still exists. I'm positive that this is not the way a BMW should handle. I didn't have the luxury to take time off to have it checked again but the scheduled maintenance will be coming up soon, and will definitely be talking to the service department about it.
As a sanity check, I welcome any comments, suggestions and experiences.
Regards,
Rob
My gut is telling me that an oil change is in order since the break-in period is over but my service advisor assures me that a "first oil change" is not necessary and that I need not change the oil until the service indicator states it, somewhere in the vicinity of 15,000 miles. I am very uncomfortable with this though I have no experience with synthetic oils or BMW engines.
I'm wondering if people follow the indicated intervals or change the oil more frequently? I drive in a fair amount of stop-and-go traffic in the NYC-metro area. Thanks.
Regarding the 15,000 mile oil change (which is simply a baseline, the OBC actually tracks how you drive via your fuel use, and adjusts the interval accordingly), we just had a discussion about this very issue over on the "BMW 5-Series Owners: Problems & Solutions" topic. Over there I posted my views as to why I think that the target 15K interval is appropriate. There is also at least one dissenting view to keep things balanced. You might want to check it out. Don't worry; us 5-Series types won't bite if you pop your head in there. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
The last service 15K service was 5/2003, I am now waiting for the computer to indicate the next service is in order.
You have to do what you feel comfortable with. There is evidence to point out the 15K service interval with the synthetic oil does not seem to hurt the engine reliability.
Here's one more detail that perhaps you or others can help me with:
The car pulls to the slightly to the right 90% of the times and when I brake, it pulls hard to the right. Once in a while it pulls to the left and likewise it pulls harder to the left when I brake.
This rules out the brakes since the car can pull either side.
I'm not sure if this is an alignment issue either because it doesn't pull in one direction 100% of the times.
Now I wonder whether it's a suspension problem.
Your comments are appreciated.
If the problem is present more often than absent, I still recommend driving with a service advisor and show him/her the problem.
BMWNA got involved....they actually replied to my message on this board. I contacted them and they arranged for me to see the service advisor and shop foreman at the local dealership. The appointment is on 6/11. I will let you know if they resolve the problem.
I do not believe that the excessive vibration has anything to do with the fuel. And, quite frankly, the stalling situation is certainly not due to the higher octane fuel. If anything, the middle grade fuel is what may have caused the stalling in my car in the first place!
My stalling problem has been resolved, but as I stated above, it may have been caused by the middle grade fuel although the fact that it stopped after BMW raised the RPM from normal to about 800-850 is more likely why it has stopped stalling. Ultimately, the excessive vibration I experience may be due to a sensor or coil problem, but really don't know. What I do know, is that it should not be, given that I own three BMW's at the moment and have driven others and my new 330 Ci is the only one with this nagging excessive vibration.
Does anybody have a solution for this? Try a new product? Let it dry overnight?
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You're dissolving the tires. This is not good! Stop using that stuff immediately!
Let us know what you are using so we won't be tempted to buy that stuff.
I will definitely go on a test drive with the service advisor instead of just dropping the car off and head to work.
Thanks.
Has anyone experienced being "locked" inside their BMW? If yes, did the service department say what the problem is? I have a 2004 325ci. Recently, on 2 occasions, I couldn't open the driver's door from the inside...yes, the inside! When I pulled the handle twice to unlock the door, the door unlocked. However, the door wouldn't open & wouldn't budge at all! I had to put the window down, put my arm out the window and reach for the door handle and open the door. What a piece of crap! I'm so disappointed with BMW and the quality of the car, especially because it is new.
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jerry