BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

dag

I am looking at a 2002 325i with 54,000 miles on it. Is there anything I should look at specifically when driving/examining the car? Thanks for any feedback.

kominsky

The orange triangle is showing that DSC is kicking in. Did it come on momentarily or did it light up and not go back off? If it just flashed, you probably lost traction for some reason. If it came on and stayed on, I'd have to guess that there is a problem with the system.

FWIW, the low fuel warning is just a small glowing dot near the fuel guage.

kyfdx

You should be looking for a very low price.. 54K on an '02 BMW should kill its value.. If it isn't down near $20K, keep looking.

erickpl

but I'm in soCal and things are WAY spread out here. A 2002 in this area with 54,000 actually isn't too high. So I guess it depends on where you are.

As for the triangle and the !. You may indeed have a problem. You may also want to look for the DSC button and press it. you may have accidentally bumped it while doing something else (like adjusting the A/C or stereo). If it doesn't go off when you press the DSC button, you've got an issue.

You should use at LEAST mid-grade. Premium in soCal is near an all-time high (from a few months ago). The mid works well and my mileage is not any different that what I was getting with premium. Avoid the regular unleaded. Your mileage WILL be affected and performance will drop.

-Paul

sphynx

Couple of questions....1st off I keep hearing mention of these number designations for cars. E46, etc...I'm getting a 2004 330I with performance package on Saturday almost completely loaded, its only missing the rear airbags, park distance and i'm not paying 200+ for a yr of a stupid panic button (assist or whatever it's called...) anyhow whats the E designation for this 04 330I w/ performance pkg?

Also are there any common issues people have been having with the 04 330I's with the performance pkg, 6spd manual? Would be nice to know before I sign the dotted line! Or is there a history of issues with the prior simular built models? How about the NAV can I get updated DVD's somehow or burn copies of a dealer one every year???

Thanks for your help

sphynx

Does BMW offer some type of warranty that will extend the current 4yr / 50k on my 04 330I i'm buying? If so what type of price should I reasonably expect from the dealer or should I search somewhere else? Considering the price of them doing a break job which I'm sure isn't cheap I'm thinking because of the performance package I'll save more in the long run with all the things that could go wrong. I'm HOPING that this car will be better than Honda's I've owned...Loved Hondas, change the oil, tires, and brakes as needed and it'll run you 250-300k miles.
And do the rec. services as well of course. But with them Just spelling Honda doesn't cost you $100.00 per letter like it would for a beamer...God I'm hoping it's not a cash hog and lasts forever (No even though it's performance I'll treat it like a baby with only the OCCASIONAL run it like a demon for a few minutes a few times each year)

Thanks for your input

alibajalajaula

Sphynx:
I have a 330i Performance Package, so far 6700 miles on it, since march, and this is my feedback. As far as designation,it is still a E46 chassis. Dealers use the code ZHP to designate the performance package option.
There is no car that lasts forever and believe me this is not the exception (I don't expect it to be). From my experience, the tires and wheels are really nice but expensive. The ultra low profile 255/35ZR18'S rears have so little margin that a survivable flat on a standard tire is a killer here. But we all know about this, its the price for life in the fast lane. I've been considering adding pressure monitoring to the tires to know while I'm the road , if one goes. Otherwise, its impossible to avoid ruining the tire. I initially took a $600/5 year road hazard wheel&tire warranty but later cancelled it because I found out, reading the fine print, that more common damage like scratching a rim against a curb at the motor bank would not be cover anyways. And it shouldn't. But it did happened to me. Not much, but enough to aggravate me. Bottomline, its a beautiful car, but as much as you try it will show wear and tear. I set apart a small escrow account to deal with the tire replacement thing ( as set can run $1200- Michelin Pilot Sports)and any other possible (?) issue, after warranty.
As far as warranty beyond 4 year/50K, I understand you can get it later, before the expiration period. You will still need to pay maintenance. I decided not to worry right now. I have added oil to the engine, 1 quart a couple of times, at the dealership. They've said its part of the engine break in (although the true breakin is 1200 miles-4500rpm).
The car itself has performed incredibly well. This dude runs like a bat straight outta hell and I'ved pushed right up there at least once a week. I never had Hondas, just Nissan and Toyotas, and yes, they never break. But this is a totally new experience, you only live once and that's it. 2cents.

kyfdx

1) The number one problem I hear about is the clutch. On the 330i ZHP there is a clutch delay valve (CDV), which evidently is there to protect the transmission, but delays the engagement of the clutch. Some people have modified or removed them.

2) E46 is the BMW model designation for the current body style that started in '99 and '00. The new body style, which current rumor has debuting next summer as an '06 model is E90. The '04 330i is an E46.

regards,
kyfdx

kyfdx

BMW is going to announce very soon a new extended WARRANTY plan that basically is the same as the CPO warranty. It will only be available to original owners or lessees. The list price for the rear wheel drive 3-series will be $2249. In addition, you can extend your "free" MAINTENANCE plan to the same 6yr/100K period for a list price of $995.

regards,
kyfdx

bmwna

I’m with BMW of North America, LLC. I’m sorry to read you are experiencing a problem with your transmission. If you and your BMW center would like our assistance, please phone us at (800) 831-1117, and mention Reference #200421200264 so that we can discuss your concerns. If you prefer, you can email us through the Owners’ Circle at www.bmwusa.com.

BMW NA Customer Relations

merilee

I know it's been a few months since you posted, hopefully you had this fixed by now. But, if not, I had the same problem with my 2004 330ci. Dealer said I needed a transmission software upgrade. I was skeptical, but it did work! It was all covered under warranty. Good luck to you!

koz1

I'm going to be buying this used with 26K miles. Car came back clean on Carfax. Any body have any experience with this 2001 model?

gordonwd

That is the DSC (Dynamic Stability Control) light. If it's on steady, it means that DSC has been turned off. If this did not happen because you pressed the DSC button, then the DSC might be malfunctioning. Did you by any chance press the DSC button, maybe by mistake? It's located at the front of the console just below the little storage compartment.

And yes, premium grade is "required". You can probably get away with a tank of mid-grade occasionally, but definitely stay away from regular except in an emergency. If you are considering using a lesser grade of gas in a BMW just to save $$$, then you might be better off with a different brand that does not require premium.

kyfdx

"If you are considering using a lesser grade of gas in a BMW just to save $$$, then you might be better off with a different brand that does not require premium."

EXACTLY

sphynx

Like they say...if you can afford the car, you can afford the gas!!

kyfdx

It really doesn't have much to do with the price of the car. If your Ford Escort needs premium, you should use it or buy a car that doesn't need it.

Saving money is always a good thing. Some people may buy a BMW as a third car or plaything, and others might have to scrape and save to get their "dream" car. I don't want to put it in terms of "It is a BMW, get out your wallet", it is just what the car requires. For $10/month, I just wouldn't take the chance. And when I shop for a used car, and hear the owner say he uses mid-grade and its just fine, I'm on to the next car.

regards,
kyfdx

bmw323is

While I have never used anything but premium in my BMW, I also have a new 4Runner in which the manual recommneds premium fuel "for best performance." My dealer told me that regular is fine for the Toyota, the service advisors said the same, and most of the folks in the Edmunds town hall agree that it makes no difference in performance. So in the 4Runner, I've been using regular or mid grade after engine break in. It's difficult to know when a manufacturer recommends premium gas if it really means busienss or not. Still in the BMW, I would never recommend less than premium.

shabi4pilot

I have a 2002 BMW 325i, last night all of a sudden dashboard lights started flashing (especially the hand brake light and the DSC/ABS Light, one thats right in the middle of the dash board with caution sign in the center and circle sign around it) and the car kept drifting left for some reason. The steering wheel felt like a 1000 lb, i was doing probably 25 miles/hr on a local street. I tried to hit the brakes and it just spun the car out of control and I ended up in a ditch hitting a utility pole.
All this happenned in just few seconds, I couldn't believe it. I have only 20K miles on it and serviced regularly at the BMW dealer. Did anyone else had the same problem? I am planning to call the dealer and the warranty coverage department.
Any suggestions?
I also have a police report, since I have to deal with my insurance company for the broken signal light and dent on the front bumper.

Thanks

kdshapiro

shabi4pilot - I hope you get your problems attended to. I can't imagine how the steering wheel could feel like a 1000 lbs except if the engine stalled. If it did there should be a code in the system.

I notice you're in my neck of the woods, nary a cloud in the sky yesterday. How did you spin your car out going 25 mph without rain? Even if the engine quit there should be a reserve in the brake system that would stop the car in a few feet. Not doubting your story, but the circumstances seem interesting to say the least.

BTW, did you get it from a BMW dealer and was it CPO? Which dealer did you use? Did you talk to them about this incident?

gordonwd

Ditto wondering how this much could happen at 25mph, but assuming that the car was still running, the DSC/ABS lights might indicate that the DSC (stability control) thought for some reason that the car was skidding. To stabilize the car, the DSC system has the capability of separately applying the brakes to make the correction. I wonder if it's possible that it applied the brakes on one side of the car, making it pull that way. On the other hand, the DSC is mainly for minor "corrections" and it's hard to think that it would apply the brakes hard enough to lose control of the car at low speed on dry pavement. I would expect that they build considerable safety checks into the sensors, etc.

nissancar

Is it okay to go to a common workshop (like Mineeke) for brake job or should one go to a BMW service? thanks.

ted49

I have a 2003 330xi and today the A/T malfunction light came on and the car went into emergency transmission mode. There is a noticeable lack of power from standstill but then it runs fine. After I stopped to read the manual and call the dealer, I started the car up, the light was out and the car runs fine. Has anyone experienced this problem? I may have inadvertently hit the cruise controls on the steering wheel but I don't see how that could cause the light to go on.

topboy323

I have a 323iC and I have been to 3 BMW dealer and I have received 3 different prices. My dealership was the most $900.00 then the lowest was $680.00. When I looked it up on edmunds pricing guide it states:

Total Estimated Parts Cost For Your Area $117.05
Total Estimated Labor Cost For Your Area $244.60
Total Estimated Cost (excluding tax)* $ 361.65

I called I have the certified maintenance records and maintance schedule was always followed even recalls done. It has new Conyi's on it and I just had the dealer ship do the breaks since the low pad light came on. I do like the fact they are suppose to check so much. Everything that the book states I can do the plugs, fluid changes and get most the parts cheaper.
680.00 for what they so seems high. Any one know how much the average cast of it is...

div2

A good BMW independent should charge about 2/3-1/2 of what the dealer charges for an Inspection II. In my area I pay @$400. If you find a dealer service department that actually does everything called for then you might want to bring it to the dealer for every other Inspection II. That said, you may have a BMW dealer like the one my friend used. He inflated every one of his tires to a different-and incorrect-pressure, then deflated the spare. He then took it to his dealer who allegedly performed(for $750) an Inspection II-which calls for an inspection of tire condition and pressure. When he got it back-you guessed it-the tire pressures had not been corrected and the spare was still flat. Needless to say he let the Service Manager as well as BMW NA know about it.

racingjay

I am considering the purchase of my first BMW, and have came across what I feel is a good deal, and was wanting some input from people who know. I am able to purchase a 2001 325ci from the original owner. It is fully loaded, with the exception of the nav system. The only drawback is it has 80,000 miles. I know it has been maintained well, and the price is unbeatable ($15,000). I usually drive 20-25k miles a year. What can I expect down the road. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

jaj

A couple of niggling items during my first week of ownership: low visibility of radio readout in any kind of daylight- I read through the radio manual; am I missing something? Also, when I start the car first time of the day, the entire vehicle shakes briefly. Once I'm under way it seems to run fine and idle smoothly. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions would be appreciated.

gordonwd

Is the weather hot where you live? I noticed this shake a few times on my car also, and concluded it was caused by the air conditioning compressor kicking in just after the car starts. It only happened on the (very few) really hot days that we've had this summer. You probably notice it more since the car is new and you're more sensitive to little details.

The radio readout thing is pretty strange. I've never noticed anything like this. Try taking a look at someone else's car or a car on your dealer's lot and comparing.

kyfdx

Do you have polarized sunglasses?

drddo

I've had my 325xi for almost 2 months now. I had a problem with my radio LCD lights where a cluster of them wouldn't work until the car was "warmed up", even in 80 degree weather. I took it in and the dealer replaced the unit, no problems since.
I also notice a bit of a shake when I first start my car after it has been sitting for a few hours. The weather here is unseasonably cool, so definitely not the air conditioning. If I sit for a minute or so, the engine smooths out. If I am impatient and get going, it runs very smoothly from the get go. Not sure what it is, but isn't bothering me too much.

-Drddo

jaj

Your description of your car's shaking perfectly describes what I've got. I agree that it's not a big deal but I do wonder why it happens. Thanks to all for responding.

sphynx

My 330I w/ ZHP does the exact same thing first thing in the mornings for about the first 1 or 2 miles I drive it. When I start it I immeadiately drive off as suggested.

ally

I have the opportunity to purchase a 1991 BMW 325i convertible with 97000 miles on it. Since I am currenly an owner of a bottom line Ford, I am a bit apprehensive to buy a car with so many miles on it. If it breaks down it will be a struggle to pay for repairs due to my low income. I haven't been able to find any reports on it in consumer guides so am turning to current owners who know more than I do. Should I buy it or not?

div2

The 1984-1991 BMW Three Series cars have proven to be reliable and durable. However, they do require regular maintenance. A good independent BMW specialist will charge around $150-$200 for an Inspection I(15000 mile service) and $350-$400 for an Inspection II(30000 miles). Figure $50-$75 every 7500 miles for an oil change using synthetic oil and factory filters. Brake fluid needs to be changed on an annual basis, coolant semi-annually. If you would really have to struggle to afford the maintenance costs I'd suggest you pass on the car. A neglected BMW will wind up costing you a lot more money in the long run.

ally

Thanks for the advice, I hate to think about passing it up but I may just have to do that seeing how many miles are on it and I am not sure if the previous owner has kept up everything that you suggested.

newbuyer30

Well, here's the follow-up on the stalling in the 330.

After a lot of persistence with BMWNA, they sent a field engineer to my dealer's location. He took the DME out and FEDEX'ed it to NJ to be re-programmed (just like they did for thomaspeterdub). I just got the car back a couple of days ago. So far, I don't notice a difference, but I HOPE it's now fixed and won't stall anymore. We'll see in the next few weeks...

And for anyone else who is having this problem with their 330, my car is a 330 w/ the premium package and cold weather package. It does not have the sports package that BMWNA had originally claimed that the stalling only affected. After all, it really doesn't make sense that a different suspension and different tires (on the sports package) would affect the engine stalling.

I'm happy that BMWNA is taking corrective action and I hope my problem is now fixed.

Good luck to all.

mattchalmers

I am looking into buying this car with 102,000 miles. Carfax shows 1 owner and no problems. Any advice? Dealer is asking $9,500. According to Edmunds, that is a pretty good price. Your input would be appreciated.

div2

As always, I'd want to see a full service history and I would also want the car to be thoroughly checked by a good BMW tech. I have run several BMWs past 100000 miles and they have proven to be very reliable. That said, an abused or poorly maintained car will be a money pit.

bomaster

I just purchased a new 2004 330i with ZHP. Prior to that, I had been driving a 1984 318i, which I took better-than-average care of, but definitely was not obsessive/compulsive about it. My 318i has 161K miles on it now, and still runs very well. Plan on replacing parts every so often (my alternator on the 318i went out the day before I purchased my 330i!), but you know, you really can't go wrong. And a BMW is so fun to own, plus no one will ever look at it and ask you what make it is. Can't say that about Honda or Toyota!

bomaster

I just purchased a new 2004 330i with ZHP and love it. But it seems to me the Xenon headlights are out of adjustment. They're very bright, but the light beam is primarily on the roadway. I sometimes have to scrunch down in the seat to see where I'm going. I have also noticed a fair amount of "headlight bounce" when I drive, which is pretty distracting. One dealer told me this was a common complaint from drivers that haven't had Xenon before, until they get used to it. Has anyone else noticed this? I'm having it checked out tomorrow, but I'd like to have a little info to arm myself with prior, just in case the service center starts blowing smoke. Thanks!

kyfdx

I hate to agree with the dealer, but.....

It does take some getting used to... The cutoff for the beam is so black and white (sorry), that everything is exaggerated.. The best thing about the BMW is the bounce is quick, since the suspension controls it so well... I had the same issues when we got ours, but have since adjusted, and I don't even get to drive it all that much.

regards,
kyfdx

bomaster

OK, thanks. If that's the way it is, then fine. I suppose it's like trying caviar or pate for the first time... it's an acquired taste. Thanks for your quick reply.

kyfdx

It doesn't mean yours aren't out of adjustment, but they ARE self-leveling... But, I had the same experience... I love them now, and wouldn't want to be without them..

regards,
kyfdx

jazevedo

Congrats on the car, I got mine 2 weeks ago! It is my first car with xenons also...intersting how exact the lights are, and how visable the cutoff is. Mine seem to be a little low also, but I haven't driven anywhere that is really dark yet - only around town, so I'm not sure if mine need to be adjusted. I did notice that they appear to be much lower on the left, to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. On the right, the light goes higher but I still need to test whether I can read signs on a dark road....if not they may need to be adjusted up. Other posters have mentioned that their dealer adjusted their lights up a bit so it's possible....

bomaster

I can identify with everything you said. I have driven the car in pitch blackness and it's almost eery, everything is so defined (to a point) and then nothing but darkness. My dealer explained that the beam gradually rises to the right for the reason you mention. But if the dealer can adjust them up a little, I'm going to have him do it. Other than this Xenon issue, I absolutely love my car. I had my first bimmer for 20 years, I may keep this one that long as well. Thanks for sharing your experience re Xenons with me.

erickpl

The self levelling is what you are seeing. I live in the mountains and it is actually fun to watch the lights adjust as I go up and down.

I would think the stiffer suspensions of a ZHP may cause the xenons to level more as the car is bounced around by rough roads. Maybe blueguy can chime in here as he has a ZHP in San Diego and there are some interesting road paving patterns down there ;>.

You should find that even though the lights don't go up as high as you'd think on the right, there is enough light bouncing off the street signs that you should be able to see them. Haven't really noticed the overhead signs though, but those are usually lit anyway.

-Paul

silvernubira

Mr. bmwna

I have a E46 not M3, but I wanted to comment about "BMW quality standards." I have the rear "CLUNK" (manual transmission) that is practically present ALL THE TIME. What causes this clunk is the use of out of spec rear axle and other parts on the drive train. There is simply too much looseness or play or slack in the drive train. I was wondering why BMW would install such lower quality parts in an "ultimate driving machine." By the way, when I complained to your factory engineer, he said the clunk in my car was not "too bad"(!?) and was not interested in doing anything about it. I had other problems and BMWNA was not able fix any one of them.

Do you want to guess if I will be buying another BMW in the future?!

By the way, our Daewoo has a much much better stereo than my "ultimate driving machine" has even though its cost was about one third of the ultimate driving machine. I guess BMW does not apply its quality standards to audio systems?

silvernubira

To Whoever Moved My Post Here:

M3 has worse clunking problem than E46 and M3 is an E46 to start with, FYI!

To Those Wondering What The Above Message (#1235) Is About:

Go to the M3 Problems and Solutions thread and read Message #2 where Mr. bmwna talks about "BMW quality standards" which of course does not apply to many "ultimate driving machines"(!!!) including the drive train on my E46.

kdshapiro

"Go to the M3 Problems and Solutions thread and read Message #2 where Mr. bmwna talks about "BMW quality standards" which of course does not apply to many "ultimate driving machines"(!!!) including the drive train on my E46."

Not to make light of your post, but is that like saying famous Lexus quality does not apply to these cars having the sludge problem?

rascale

You happened to get a bad car. All manufacturers produce a quantity of them. So....get rid of the car if you don't like it and quit bitching! End of story.

silvernubira

Did Lexus cars have sludge problem? I thought it was Camry. I actually had a 1998 Camry which was a lemon and I made Toyota Motor Sales to buy it back. This Camry was a piece of junk and it was no ultimate driving machine.

When comparing these two cases BMW loses again. Toyota made a design error and they did not know (?) that sludge was going to form in the engines.
 
On the other hand if BMW tested the cars before they left the factory they would have find out (they probably knew anyway). And they could have even tested only the the axles before assembly and measure how much free play there was and reject the ones with excessive play. However, such action would have cut into their profits. And BMW is probably the top "profitable" auto manufacturer because they "slip" in such inferior quality parts once in a while and take their chances. And then they talk about BMW quality standards!!!