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Me either; the one the E39 guys use is the "Sensa-Trac". Another good shock is the Sachs Super Touring.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I agree with you about Bilsteins---I never regretted paying a bit extra for them.
For many of you on the board with a long history of tail light problems, be sure to save your receipts.
:lemon:
This was on another board, but it looks like you can get your money back once the recall starts. Better is the fact that BMW might actually stop having us fix our own cars with parts from Radio Shack . . . . Geesh, have they no shame?
It's time to stop with the "homemade" fixes. This is a serious safety defect and BMW knows it. The post below is a cross post--read and heed:
Just a quick update on this problem. Among my circle of friends we have five post-update E46 sedans. Four of them have had tail light, turn signal, brake light failures all caused by BMW's screw up when they updated the tail lights: not enough grounding wire(s). See the BMW service bulletin SI B 63 03 06 on this at the link below:
http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B630306g.htm
Since the ne'er-do-wells at "Screw The Damn Customer" BMW HQ Customer Service (what an oxymoron) have never heard of Ralph Nader, we're giving 'em a little help. The nice folks over in Washington D.C. have these things called Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards, and EVERYONE selling cars here has to meet them for ten years after a car or truck is built. That means if our lights have design defects (they do), BMW is under potentially criminal liability to fix the things with a safety recall at NO cost.
BMW's service bulletins basically say, "Only fix the cars under warranty; screw everyone else for whatever you can get away with so you can buy a bigger boat." WRONG ANSWER BMW!
The ball is in motion on this; more later. For now, BE SURE TO SAVE ALL YOUR RECEIPTS IF YOU HAD YOUR STEALER RAPE YOU FOR $400 (per side) TO FIX BMW'S LIGHTING SCREW UP.
I expect to see something in a few weeks so hang in there.
:lemon:
Excuse me for being impatient, but I know someone out there has the ability to answer this one. I would be glad to return the favor someday and pay it forward.
DIY oil change is just a complete nuisance to me. I'd rather spend the time and effort fixing something that translates into real dollars (like when I replaced some bulbs in my dashboard--that saves a lot of labor).
But you are right, if you aren't careful or don't know your shop, you can get oversold during oil changes.
I won't be doing the swap until later Spring sometime, but maybe I'll give documenting it a shot. I would make a video, but when things start going badly, I tend to curse and throw things...
I'm thinking you missed the point (a couple of points actually):
1) As far a I know, every BMW sold in the United States since the dawn of the E46 has required at the very least 6.5 quarts of oil (my 1999 328i and my 2002 530i both took 7 quarts to bring the level up to the upper hash mark on the dip stick).
2) I'm finding it extremely difficult to believe that Advance Auto is selling oil that meets the required BMW LongLife-01 oil specification for less than $5.00 per quart. FWIW, just because an oil is "synthetic" in no way means that it is acceptable to use in a late model BMW (or Audi, or VW, or Mercedes-Benz... you get the idea).
The fact of the matter is, that now, here in 2009, it will be the rare situation indeed where someone can buy the proper oil and filter for a late model BMW for much under $60.00.
Best regards,
Shipo
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
BMW also replaced the Brake Pad Wear Sensor - which to me indicates that the wear was below minimum and the sensor should have warned of a brake job?
Now on other cars I have always been told that pads and rotors have to be changed in tandem or you dont get a perfect fit - ie scoring on the rotors will screw up the new pads.
Whats the minimun thickness for rotors? And if the fronts were changed at 2mmm surely 4mm for the rears is so close that they should have also been done at the same time? Whats the new thickness on pads? :mad:
1) While I don't know the exact thickness of the friction material for new pads, my bet is that they're roughly 12mm.
2) The brake pad wear sensor will correctly indicate a brake job is needed if (and only if) the pads on that wheel (only 1 wheel per axle gets a sensor) is straight and true. As one or more sets of pads on both of my BMWs have worn in such a way as to cause the caliper to tilt and the brake pads to wear at an angle (as viewed from top to bottom), it is very possible to have either the inner or the outer edge of the metal brake pad backing plate come into contact with the rotor well before the wear sensor indicates the brakes are needing to be done.
3) Technically speaking, if a rotor isn't down to minimum specs (the minimum thickness is physically stamped on the rotor itself), it doesn't need to be changed. I change my rotors at every brake job, many folks don't; personal choice.
Best regards,
Shipo
What's truly amazing is how excited everyone got about the subject of an oil change, but couldn't dig into the wealth of their knowledge to answer a simple question that might truly be of worth to someone. You're attitudes are no better than of those who have forgotten what the true worth of a dollar is anymore--let's just talk millions and billions. Your disregard for the new guy on the block is no different than the elitists shunning the average "joe" out there. So, to shipo and Mr. Shiftright and the others in your click group; why not get back to trying to help someone in between your impressive comments and opinions of how much this or that costs?
For me personally, the $50 extra I spend once every 5,000 to have a trusted mechanic go over the car with me on a lift is well worth it. And he recycles for me.
No muss, no fuss.
I'm sorry but I'm having a hard time equating a desperate poverty level with BMWs. Something doesn't compute with that. This IS the BMW topic, right?
Really now, if you can't spend $50 on a BMW, the car is doomed, don't you think?
I LOVE to stretch a buck. But not in that particular way. For you, this might be your method of doing so. And we'd be glad to help you with that. Me, I go to Costco and save $50 that way on food. So much easier than laying on my back in a cold driveway.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Rule #1: If you're poor, you shouldn't be driving a BMW. While they aren't necessarily all that much more expensive than other marques to own and operate (on a per mile basis), they do demand periodic maintenance with quality products, and if you cannot afford that maintenance, buy a Chevy or a Toyota or something else of that ilk.
"I guess when you're making $100.00 or more an hour, and so smart that you can change out entire engines, why bother, huh?"
No comment on how much I make (or don't make as the case may be), however, by not maintaining a car in a manner prescribed by the manufacturer, you are most certainly more likely to be required to change out an entire engine compared to folks who do follow the OEM maintenance schedule. It sounds like you're the one with money to burn. Oh, wait! You're poor right?
"And while you're at it, why not everyone know how silly it is to worry about such a trivial thing."
Worrying about proper maintenance is "trivial"? You heard it first here folks.
"What's truly amazing is how excited everyone got about the subject of an oil change, but couldn't dig into the wealth of their knowledge to answer a simple question that might truly be of worth to someone."
Can't help you on where the fuse is located, I'm not rich enough to own a convertible BMW. That said, you're the one that stated that you could do an oil change for $35 on a BMW, a claim that is, at the very least, HIGHLY suspect.
"You're attitudes are no better than of those who have forgotten what the true worth of a dollar is anymore--let's just talk millions and billions."
Do tell. It seems that you're the one who has forgotten the true value of money as you can afford to improperly maintain your cars and then put new engines in when they fail due to your negligence.
"Your disregard for the new guy on the block is no different than the elitists shunning the average "joe" out there."
There was no disregard or disrespect intended, more likely we were being kind as we were trying to save you from yourself.
So, to shipo and Mr. Shiftright and the others in your click group; why not get back to trying to help someone in between your impressive comments and opinions of how much this or that costs?
I'm more than happy to help. Advice: Spend the necessary dollars to buy the proper oil and filters for your car, that way you won't need to buy new engines for them when they prematurely fail. As for the fuse, sorry, I still don't know where it is.
Best regards,
Shipo
I have been screwed so many times by BMW dealers that if I was a prostitute I could be a billionaire by now. The worst part is, the dealers treat me with the same haughty attitude that Mr. Shipo does because I don't have a new car that's under warranty.
Mr. Shipo's advice is no different than the advice financial wizards, stock analysts, and stockbrokers have been giving their clients regarding stocks and the stock market being sound....BMW has perpetuated the myth so long that you actually believe that they are not that more expensive to operate than other marques,(whatever that means).
As for being poor: I have spent $2500 in the past year on my 740i, and none of it was spent at the dealer or it would be double that amount...and for your information none of the repairs was related to poor maintenance practices or oil and filter changes. I drive a 2001 bought with 62,000 miles on it in Oct. '05 and that was the only way I could get into "your class of driving enthusiasts". Buying a new BMW, and spending the kind of money that is required, is "in my opinion" not getting the best value for your purchase. I have plenty of examples to back that up. Buying used at 1/4 of the original sales price because someone rich wanted to dispose of their old junk makes more sense to me. Paying for the eventual repairs and maintenance is much cheaper than losing 3/4 of the value of a new car in just 4 years. Finding a competent, reliable repair shop that treats you like a valued customer is much more preferable than being abused by a BMW dealer---unless of course you bought the car new from them and do not argue over paying excessive and outrageous costs for repairs and parts.
All automobile manufacturers want you to deal exclusively with their shops and order only their parts. That's where they make most of their profits.
The "trivial thing" I was referring to was your reference to; how trivial it is to subject yourself to doing an oil change when it only saves you $50.00.
At 139,000 miles I have had no engine problems, unless you count blown radiator hoses, power steering leaks, coolant leaks, water pump leaks, valve cover leaks, broken thermostat assembly, vacum valves, and window regulator failures.
And finally, you could have just sucked it up and said you didn't know the answer to my initial question regarding the trunk latch issue instead of attacking my credibility over the cost of an oil change. Man...you guys need to lighten up alittle.
Please point me to even one instance where I recommended BMW service or BMW only parts? Please understand that recommending oil the meets or exceeds the BMW LL-01 oil specification in no way means BMW oil. The difference here is that there are a number of oil providers that sell oil that meet the spec but have no relationship with BMW. FWIW, the two most popular here in the States are Mobil 1 0W-40 and Castrol Syntec 0W-30.
I have been screwed so many times by BMW dealers that if I was a prostitute I could be a billionaire by now. The worst part is, the dealers treat me with the same haughty attitude that Mr. Shipo does because I don't have a new car that's under warranty.
How is it my fault that you allowed yourself to be repeatedly screwed by BMW dealers? All I have done is recommend good sound advice with regard to your comments about your failure to properly maintain your cars.
Mr. Shipo's advice is no different than the advice financial wizards, stock analysts, and stockbrokers have been giving their clients regarding stocks and the stock market being sound....BMW has perpetuated the myth so long that you actually believe that they are not that more expensive to operate than other marques,(whatever that means).
Now you're getting personal and I must take exception to your comments. If you cannot accept that the things you've posted are patently incorrect, and that others have attempted help you out by pointing out where you are incorrect, that's one thing, but to launch a personl attack? Sorry dude, you lost me.
And finally, you could have just sucked it up and said you didn't know the answer to my initial question regarding the trunk latch issue instead of attacking my credibility over the cost of an oil change. Man...you guys need to lighten up alittle.
Regarding your initial question, I didn't respond to it because I didn't have an answer to it. Had you let it go at that, there wouldn't have been an issue, however, you then followed up that post with a worthless boasting comment about $90 being a bad price for an oil change and that you can do it for $35 (something that I've shown is pretty much impossible). Lest you forget what you wrote, let me refresh your memory: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea1744/4150
Anyone buying a 7 series, new or used, had better be very well to do. It's an extremely expensive car to maintain, whether you go to a dealer or not. Some independent BMW shops won't even work on 7 series cars.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I have a 2005 330i with a performance pkg and 40K miles on it. I have not had any major problems with the car and would like to keep it for at least another 2-3 yrs. My warranty expires this May and I've been looking into getting an extended warranty.
BMW extended warranty for 2 yrs is ~ 2600 and for 4 is ~3500, can anyone comment on were to get a better deal?, is this price negotiable?, is it a must getting the extended warranty?
Thanks :confuse:
Stick your money in a CD or Money Market account and self-insure it. There's almost no way an E46 will need $3500 worth of repairs over the next 4 years/60,000 miles.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I keep hoping a nice low mileage ZHP sedan will turn up in my area. If it does the Mazdaspeed is history...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
The port should look something like this.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks again.
Also one always has to be suspicious of bad valve lifters on 3-series, but you didn't specify year. If the car runs rough and then runs better when warmed up, I'd look more closely for a bad lifter as well as the usual ignition component failures that I mentioned.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Is it fouled? Is it wet with oil or gas?
It's also possible you have a bad plug wire.