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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

17677798182105

Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I've never heard of a factory 150,000 mile warranty on any BMW engine. I don't know where you heard about this warranty, but I'm thinking that you've been grossly misinformed.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    The early V8s had a 100K warranty due to problems with the Nikasil block; that's the last time I remember Munich providing a non-CPO warranty longer than 50K.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 142,577
    '02-'03 7-series had their warranties extended to 100K..

    That's the only other instance that I've heard of...

    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • xeyexeye Posts: 168
    Hi,

    This thread made me think of some noises I hear upon inserting the plastic key in my '07 335xi. The engine seems to do: "Oh Boy, OH BOY! Someone put the key in the little slot! I better try to warm up the oil, start this-or-that pump, and get ready to REVVVV!"

    The whirring, etc, settles down within 2 to 4 seconds, and no bad noises come through.

    It all sounds normal, and good, from my perspective. I like the idea of the engine anticipating what it will be called to do. This sounds like some proactive thinking on some Munich engineer's part. Now, if only someone could confirm that this is really what is happening, I'd feel better.

    To me, it would be like having intravenous espresso only seconds after waking up. How nice would THAT be!

    xeye
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 13,684
    I wonder if the noise you speak of is the fuel pump :confuse: My '90 E30's fuel pump whirrs before the car turns over.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2017 Pilot Touring AWD, 2019 Tacoma TRD Sport 4WD

  • xeyexeye Posts: 168
    Hi,

    In my '07 335xi, there are two small ducts just below the hood hinges on both sides of the engine compartment with removable screens. Does anyone know what they are for? It's hard to believe they are air intakes, yet that's exactly what they seem to be. I hope they're not intakes for the turbos. The thought of tiny little bits of leaf in the innards of my delicate engine makes me uneasy.

    My issue is that the car seems to attract leaves, maple tree seeds (little propellers?) and other flotsam in the gaps at the top of the hood below the windscreen like no car I've driven before. The junk gathers in particular in the wells where these removable screens sit. I try to remove whatever I can, but I'm concerned about the impact if some of this debris should fall into the duct wells in the minute or two when the screens are removed for cleaning. Because it's a small area cluttered with vacuum cables, it's difficult to ensure nothing falls in.

    Another complaint is that the fluttering of trapped dried leaves in the wind sounds like I have baseball cards clothes-pinned in my spoked wheels. Unfortunately, I park beneath an enormous maple tree in my yard and the damned thing sheds every Autumn right on my car. Couple that with the dozen or so bird feeders in the back yard and you can imagine what it takes to keep my shiny sortof-new car clean!

    Any ideas about the air ducts?

    xeye
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    No idea on air ducts, but you might want to find another place to park your baby come spring, or get a car cover, else you'll be cleaning sap off the car.
  • Last year I bought a set of snow tires and wheels for my 2003 M5, and then decided I was not going to drive it in winter. Does anyone know what other models of BMW the wheels will fit? I want to sell them... Thanks!
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 13,684
    According to what I've read in ROUNDEL, BMWCCA's monthly magazine, wheels from an E39 BMW 5 series will only fit an E39. Something about the offsets being different.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2017 Pilot Touring AWD, 2019 Tacoma TRD Sport 4WD

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    He should be able to unload them through Roundel- assuming he's a CCA member.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • The ducts you are referring to are for the brakes If you have a 335i coupe with factory oil cooler in the passenger front wheel well, then that duct is for that cooler.
  • dkg42dkg42 Posts: 11
    The Rubber Strip on the windsheild is cracking and breaking apart. The cars got 39k Miles and still under warranty. I have an appointment with the dealer in Miami, whom I really dislike. Everything is a fight with them, are they going to try and claim this is not covered under the warranty?

    I love the car but I think BMW has chosen some really cheap materials for parts of the car. The rubber they use for the hand grips and side of the console next to the emergency brake are peeling, and the enitre rear face of the center console looks like someone tried to clean it with an emery board.

    I wash this car by hand, with McQuires soap and clean the surface inside with their wipes. Never use armor all.

    Wish me luck. The dealers in Miami are horrible. When ever I am going on a businees trip to Sarasota I go to the BMW Dealer on Clarke Road for service. At least they seem to care and do good work.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    A strange thing happened to my 2000 328 Ci yesterday. It was in the airport garage for a couple of days, in cold weather (10 F when I picked it up). It fired right up and I backed out of the stall. Then as I was shifting into 1st it suddenly died. It cranked fine but wouldn't restart, and showed no signs of even a sputter. I called my local dealer's service techs to see if they had any ideas, since I have owned the car for only 2 months and thought they might have some ideas e.g. need to press the accelerator in cold weather. They said no, don't press the accelerator, and it was too warm for gas line freeze. I had been driving the car for several days on the last fill-up, so I doubt it's bad gas. They said it might be the fuel pump :cry: or something else that could not be remedied by my sitting in the garage, so I had to have it towed into the dealer.

    I have not experienced this kind of sudden death in 35 years of car ownership. Any ideas from the BMW experts out there?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Something so sudden does sound like electrical---you might get out the ol' owners manual and read up on how to check your fuses for the fuel pump, etc.

    But even if you find a blown fuse and replace it, the car still needs to go in to find out why the fuse blew in the first place.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Unfortunately I don't carry spare fuses. Maybe I should buy a set?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    But of course.

    There should be one/some in the fuse box though. BMW isn't cheaping out that badly, are they?

    Visiting Host
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Update: It was the fuel pump. $940 estimate to replace (not as if I have a choice, as it is sitting dead at the dealer's shop).

    All those who would like to say "I told you so!" for buying a nine-year-old E46 with 68,000 miles are now free to do so.

    I will be dumping this car at my first reasonable opportunity to get something more practical. It's a fun car to drive, but not that much fun that it's worth at least $1000 whenever a mechanic touches it.

    :sick:
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Me thinks that you got taken a bit. Why? Well, to buy a new OEM pump will run you $199, and I'm thinking that the installation shouldn't cost but another $150 or so at a reputable shop.

    The fact is, fuel pumps fail from time-to-time no matter who built the car, and they aren't cheap regardless of the vehicle you're buying them for. Contrast the cost of the fuel pump for your 328ci ($199) to the replacement for my 2003 Grand Caravan ($234), a Mazda3 ($774), an Infiniti G35 ($629), or even a lowly Toyota Corolla ($514). Long story short, before you make a rash decision, do a little research on competent independent shops in your area that specialize in BMWs, and then call them to find out what they would have charged for the fuel pump replacement.

    Best regards
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    That's a lot of money for the fuel pump I think but I realize that you don't have the time to search for deals and wait for UPS. I would think though that a good fair Indie shop might have done it for 1/2 that.

    You know, these are sturdy cars but there's a reason you don't see German electronics at Best Buy :P
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    I agree with Shipo; you got hosed.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Had the fuel pump chosen to fail some other time and place, e.g. not in the middle of a drive lane of an airport parking garage on a bitterly cold day when I needed to get home ASAP, I could have checked around for other options. Why don't these things fail when I'm in my own driveway, maybe on a day off with lots of time to make calls to mechanics etc? :confuse:

    I will talk with the service writer at the dealership and see if they can be more reasonable on the part and labor. Thanks to those who provided helpful information.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    Sorry, I wasn't trying to pile on- but you really need to do a little research before an emergency arises. Are you a member of the BMW Car Club? You'll find many dealers and independent shops offer significant discounts on parts and/or labor. You'll also be able to contact local members aand get the scoop on which shops to patronize or avoid. Dealer service cost vary to a huge extent. For example, the ignorant souls running Inside Line's long term E46 M3 get reamed on a regular basis by Santa Monica BMW. It just so happened that my local dealer(Swope BMW in Louisville KY) had recently charged me $374 for an Inspection II and a brake fluid flush. Just for giggles I called Santa Monica BMW and asked how much they would charge for the same service. Care to guess how much Santa Monica wanted?

    Inspection II: $929.95- and the service advisor said that they were currently running a "Special"(!)
    Brake fluid flush: $175.00
    Total : $1104.95
    Only $730.95(295%) more than my dealer...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Actually, I did do some research before the emergency. When I bought the car, I got the name of a mechanic recommended by a friend who has an E46 wagon, said he is honest and does good work at reasonable prices. So I was going to check them out when my first major inspection is due--which won't be for about a year. The problem is, this place is way, way across town from where I was. The dealer was less than five miles away. As I said, I was stuck in the middle of the airport parking ramp and had to be towed, and had to get home ASAP. I had no time (or money for that matter) to get towed another 20+ miles from where I was, during rush hour on a Friday.

    I did talk with the service advisor and he took $115 off. So it was "only" $825. That included $341 for the pump (he expressed surprise when I told him I had been told the price was around $200), $450 for 3.5 hours of labor to replace the pump, $125 diagnosis fee (yes, they had to figure out it was actually the fuel pump, but I know some places that will waive that fee if they actually do the repair), taxes etc. I told the guy I am in the wrong line of work and need to become a BMW mechanic.

    I am not sure why you would ask for a service quote from a dealer in Santa Monica when you live in Louisvile (wasting the time of the dealer in Santa Monica, unless you intended to drive to Santa Monica for the service), but maybe you have lots of time to kill. Maybe you could have called a dealer in Beijing, they might offer a good price on Inspection II, that would be interesting to know, wouldn't it? BTW, Louisville is a whole 'nuther world from Santa Monica, CA. In many ways.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,694
    "I agree with Shipo; you got hosed."

    Yup. Independent mechanics rule, and due diligence is repaid. Once done, things get much less expensive.

    I've found a great shop; they've saved me thousands, and I don't even drive a BMW.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    (he expressed surprise when I told him I had been told the price was around $200)

    Fuel Pump Electric In Tank Type - Actual MFG OEM ($199.00):
    http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BSH&Par- tNumber=N69497&Description=Fuel+Pump+-+Electric+In-Tank+Type+-+Actual+MFG+OEM

    I hope this helps. ;)

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    I checked the ETK and the pump is part number 16146766942 and goes for $231.01. Pelican Parts sells the same Siemans VDO pump for $153.50. Throw in $10-$20 bucks for a new seal or two. So the dealer is increasing his profit by over 100% AND tacking on a ludicrous $125 "diagnostic fee". Come on, how hard is it to determine that the fuel pump is DOA? And 3.5 hours to R&R the pump? Let's see... that involves disconnectiong the battery, pulling the bottom cushion of the rear seat, unplugging the pump harness, and unscrewing the retaining ring- and installation is simply the reverse of the removal procedure. My 14 year old son could do it in one hour(at O'fest '99 a friend of mine and I needed 20 minutes to change the pump in his E30 while it was sitting in the motel parking lot. Maybe backy's dealer kisses their customers and sends them flowers the next morning, but still....

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I'd scream bloody murder over the "diagnostic fee" if they did the job anyway.

    1. Examine toilet
    2. Found plunger stuck
    3. Replaced plunger

    BILL:

    Toilet diagnostic fee $80
    Parts and Labor to replace plunger $100
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,937
    Must be why the service writer didn't waste too much time taking $115 off the quoted price when I complained. Figure $10-15 for the car wash (a very good one btw), and there goes the diagnostic fee. The parts and labor are still ridiculous, though. Oh well, that's the last they'll see of me for anything other than maybe the annual oil change (they are fairly competitive on those from what I've seen).
  • I was having trouble with my car and the seat wont slide back. I took in to the bmw service center and they told me that it has something to do with the mechanism and will be covered by the warranty. The next day I get a call saying that they fixed the seat. There was something wedged under the seat but it took them almost 3 hours to fix it!!! and would have cost me 400 bucks but the service agent claimed that as a favour he would only charge me 150.

    For one it sounds like a lot of time to figure out such a minor issue. At the same time, this is something that they should have been able to establish without even taking the seat out(I guess I got suckered by expecting too much out of a warranty and not looking far enough under the seat) and should have sought my approval before working on the car, since I was led to believe that the issue will be covered under the warranty. Although I ended up making good on the charge but to me this is really unprofessional(to claim that the issue is covered under the warranty and then to be told later that its not). Does it really take 3 hours to take the seat out. To me that sounds a bit over the top.

    Any comments. Do I have an option of taking this up with perhaps BMW of North America?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    Well, if you caused the problem you really can't expect it to be covered under the factory warranty. If it was your fault and it only cost $150 to fix I would file it under "Lessons Learned" and move on down the road...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • I took delivery of my 2009 328 xi wagon on Dec. 11 and noticed a high pitched electrical sound (very faint) when I got into my garage and shut off the engine. It goes away after 15-30 seconds, but reappears if you unlock the door before restarting the engine. The sound is so faint that I can't hear it if I'm parked outdoors, only in the silence of my garage.

    hpowders, did you learn anything more about this? I would appreciate any insight before I take it to the dealer. Thanks.

    -Ithaca, NY
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    My old E38 528i did it and so does my wife's X3. Some of the car's systems don't shut down or "go to sleep" until @15 minutes after the car is either locked or left unoccupied. Likewise, these systems activate once the car is unlocked or the driver's door is opened

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 13,684
    I graduated from IC in May of '98!

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2017 Pilot Touring AWD, 2019 Tacoma TRD Sport 4WD

  • rhmassrhmass Posts: 263
    I think you should have a case in this matter. If they informed you it would be under warranty and ended up charging you, they should give you an explanation. I have found dealers are getting more aggressive in charging customers for services or repair work because they are not selling as many cars these days and have to make up profits elsewhere. You should call BMW customer service and register a complaint. Your point of their failure in calling you to explain the charge (a change of their prior position) is very valid.
  • I have a 2008 335xi with 6500 miles, 10 months into 3yr lease. Today, the idle became rough, the engine malfunctioned, diagnostic warning message appeared requiring me to proceed with caution to the nearest dealer. I barely made it a mile after the warning light appeared. It appears to be a fuel pump failure. The mechanic at Beverly Hills BMW seemed to know upon restarting. I checked with the parts department and they confirmed that some of the "earlier" models sustained fuel pump failures. I have babied this car, and can't recall exceeding 4500 rpms in steptronic mode. This car was specially ordered from Germany and was manufactured during the final week of 2007.

    Based upon what I've read so far on Edmunds, this appears to be a common problem. Shall I assume that this vehicle came without an oil cooler and insist upon its installation? I leased the car from Glendale BMW, and I already sense some attitude at B H. I certainly don't want to deal with two dealers when only one should be able to replace the defective part, if that's the case. I am driving a rental (at their expense) and am hoping for a repaired vehicle by Friday. What is the likelihood of yet another fuel pump failure without the oil cooler? Is this an issue which must be addressed at BMW North America, or is the originating dealer the one to remedy the problem. My car is at BH, so I have no choice. What leverage do I have to make them install the cooler, and can this be done in a relatively short period of time.

    Finally, has anyone invoked a "lemon law" based upon the frequency of occurrence and the likelihood of reoccurence?

    Thank you for your assistance
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Relax, you're way over thinking this. A few points:

    1) Given that some early 335i and 335xi models had an issue with the fuel pump, is seems pretty obvious that BMW has revised the design and your car will get the latest version of the truth.

    2) The RPMs that you've hit during your time with the vehicle is irrelevant relative to the fuel pump failure.

    3) There is no relationship between the oil cooler (which your car most likely does not have) and the fuel pump failure.

    4) Why on Earth are you talking Lemon Law at this point? Just get the pump replaced and carry on.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    What Shipo said. The car's getting fixed, the problem has nothing to do with the oil cooler, and on top of it all, you're leasing the sled.
    Calm down.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,694
    . . .the problem has nothing to do with the oil cooler, and on top of it all, you're leasing the sled.

    Damn straight!

    I'll take this opportunity to wish you and yours a happy holiday season and an even happier 2009.

    Thanks again for real information and proper perspective over the years.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • This is a wonderful time to convey my Holiday wishes to all of the selfless people who comprise Edmunds.com and create the most informative and helpful auto enthusiast community I've encountered.

    For the record: I was able to pick up my 2008 335xi today, barely 24 hours after limping into Beverly Hills BMW, with a new high-pressure fuel pump. Thanks to Shipo and other posts, I was motivated to share their info with some BMW personnel and sent e-mails to both the originating dealer, Glendale BMW, and BMW North America--Customer Service. I reached the right technical advisor at Glendale BMW (CA) and found out:a)there was a recall of the earlier 3 series for fuel pump replacement; b)my auto was manufactured a bit late to be recalled;c)all of the replacement fuel pumps for the 3 series through 2008 stocked by BMW garages are presently the redesigned or modified versions so that future failure is highly unlikely; they are not permitted to use the older, faulty versions; my car was manufactured in December 2007, at a time when it should have already have had a different version of the fuel pump installed; d)my car has an oil cooler installed and finally: none of the contacts I made was forthright about the recall except Glendale BMW, which also made the lease experience enjoyable and at the time, appeared to have been as good a deal as any nationwde. I would only use the Internet lease department for any vehicle, by the way, as I have negotiated dozens of leases for clients over the years, and there is simply no comparison between the facility and courtesy encountered in Internet departments compared to walk-in salespersons, and of course, the terms are superior, especially when you advise them that you're well equipped to perform your own calcualtions and/or have the proper software.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,694
    Glad to hear your car is back in fine fettle & that Glendale came through for you. It nearly always comes down to a single person who is: 1) competent and 2) cares.

    Enjoy that car & have a Merry Christmas!
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    to all of my fellow enthusiasts who frequent this board! Here's hoping 2009 is a great year for all of us.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 13,684
    I'm glad your car was fixed & you are well on your way. I've gotta ask: an Xi in Southern California? What's up with that?

    Merry Christmas & Happy Hanukkah to all the regulars here!

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2017 Pilot Touring AWD, 2019 Tacoma TRD Sport 4WD

  • I know, there are none here; I ordered it. I wanted a certain set of equipment and color, and then thought about:

    Greater safety in wet weather
    I drive to the Sierra to ski every year

    I value safety and absolutely the best traction on other than dry surfaces, and if I form the perception that it prevents one accident during a three-year lease, I can justify it. Any marginal decrease in performance (speed and acceleration) is for me, miniscule. And I really think it handles better than RWD on for example, hard cornering on uneven roads where loss of traction won't occur as readily with power distributed to all wheels. And I felt if I had the xi, it would encourage me to ski more often, as I'm a workaholic.

    Best Holiday wishes to you, too!
  • jetzzsjetzzs Posts: 64
    I am very disappointed with the quality of the mechanical components of my 2001 330i. Twice we have replaced the oil pan because the screw sheared off and now the oil separator has malfunctioned. It is out of warranty.

    I called BMWNA and they said they could not help me and that "problems like this stop here" meaning they would not do anything. Does anyone know if there is anything else I can do? I appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks so much!
  • My experience with BMWs is limited. However, I have always owned or leased autos no longer than the full warranty period. I detest the time and aggravation which inevitably arises during an out-of-warranty period. And experienced drivers have warned me NEVER own or lease a German high-performance vehicle for longer than the warranty period. Years ago, I had a Mercedes, and was just starting a business, and believe me, the costs were breaking me! Sorry; good luck.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    I am very disappointed with the quality of the mechanical components of my 2001 330i. Twice we have replaced the oil pan because the screw sheared off and now the oil separator has malfunctioned. It is out of warranty.

    I called BMWNA and they said they could not help me and that "problems like this stop here" meaning they would not do anything. Does anyone know if there is anything else I can do? I appreciate any and all suggestions.


    If the screw you are referring to is the drain plug, it means that some ham-fisted idiot is tightening it excessively. I've never stripped a drain plug on a BMW in 25 years of ownership. Find a good independent shop that specializes in BMWs. If you aren't a member of BMW CCA, join it. Many dealers and shops give discounts of up to 20% on parts and/or labor.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,523
    Based on my own ownership experiences(nine BMWs since 1983- I currently run three) I have found that BMWs are not terribly expensive to own. My 1995 Club Sport has only needed a thermostat, two belts and idler pullies(replaced as a precaution), and one set of pads and rotors in over 113,000 miles(not to mention numerous HPDEs and autocrosses). My wife's 2004 X3 has nearly 75,000 miles on the clock and it has only needed pads and rotors and a passenger seat SRS sensor(replaced under warranty). The Club Sport's running costs average @$50/month, and that number includes three sets of W or Z rated summer/track tires. The X3's costs average @$70/month.
    In contrast, I recently decided to try something different and bought a Mazdaspeed 3. It needed a new front strut and a turbocharger before it hit 26,000 miles. I have well and truly learned my lesson; I will never stray from the Munich fold again...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • jetzzsjetzzs Posts: 64
    I so much appreciate all the comments and suggestions!

    Surprise! BMW customer service called back and said a field rep would look into the oil separator issue. That doesn't guarantee anything but it is more than I expected.

    The rep said we could wait until the field rep has looked into it to settle up the bill. The car will be done today and we don't need it for a few day so I say wait. I think we will have a much better chance of getting a credit on the bill if we don't pay for it until the rep has evaluated the situation.

    Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to deal with BMW in this circumstance? Thanks so much for any input!

    Have a great New Year! Cheers!!
  • jimbresjimbres Posts: 2,025
    And experienced drivers have warned me NEVER own or lease a German high-performance vehicle for longer than the warranty period.

    Well, I have some relevant experience: my 330i, purchased new in June, 2001, has been out of warranty since June, 2005. During the past 3 1/2 years, I've spent a total of $1200 on repairs. That works out to less than $30 per month. If you can find something comparable that I could buy or lease for that amount, then I'd agree with your statement.

    Now if you had said that one should not keep an Audi beyond the expiration of its warranty, then you'd probably get no argument from me.

    Not all German cars are created equal.
  • msymanmsyman Posts: 25
    Hi. I am in New Orleans and my 325 is out of warranty. Can anyone recommend a garage who does good work at a decent price? Thanks.
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