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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Has anyone heard anything from their dealers about this lately? My dealer (Hersons in Bethesda, MD) doesn't seem to take it very seriously. Their helpful suggestion was that we drive the car in D3 all the time!!!!
Mark
There are a few other web sites, go to yahoo shopping and search for car seat cover. JC Whitney price 99 per set is not cheap, some are even higher. I had a friend who went to local Upholstery shop for his Toyota Sienna. I think they pay more. I have to ask him when I see him this weekend.
Good luck,
bjk
Are you by any chance located in SoCal? If you are, I can refer you to a local auto upholster (they don't have a website though). I got mine for $395 this includes all the seats, headrests, and armrests. The covers are customized so that you don't have the generic "dress/skirt" look.
under warranty. No big deal.
At first the service advisor tried to convince me the vehicle has no security system, thats what the tech told him. It was up to me to convince both of them wrong which I did. Then I had to convince them how the system is intended to work and I had to use another customer vehicle to show them.
Without a bunch of finger pointing here, let me just say that so far two (different) control units have been replaced and now they tell me the problem is the left side fuse box. Tomorrow, 06/15/01, I will be taking the vehicle back for the fifth attempt at repairing the system.
I'm looking for any help I can get on getting the system to work as intended. That is all I want from the dealer, nothing else. I just cant seem to understand the rationale of replacing the fuse box. Any suggestions? Any input at all?
Update..just spent 3 hrs at the dealer and they put my '01 EX on a special machine that detects problems in 3D. Said one of the back casters were slightly off and fixed it to specs. Mech took it for a spin twice and said that it has a "normal road crown drift". Tested it coming home on the highway - middle lane - seems to drift a little but better than before. Does that seem right? Or the guys just bs-ing me (being a female).
CA 12394 - did you have your's looked at yet?
Opinions??
The mech did some minor tweaks to wheel alignment. The report he printed for me shows that changes in the camber/caster settings were very minor, as they were already within specs. At first, I thought it improved slightly. However, when I went back home, I found that the tire pressure on the LF tire was 2psi higher than the RF one. Equalized that and found it pulled and drifted as before! Incidentally, when I first picked up the car, the LF tire was 4psi higher than the rest. Just wondering if they are trying to fool the customer (refer to #20 and #22 for similar reports on unequal tire pressure at pick-up time).
When I took the car in yesterday, I showed them the TSB. Afterwards, the advisor said they don't do the subframe pull anymore. Too bad I was too distracted to ask him why. Anyway, I have called them again to book another appt.
Have read in another post that it may take several tries before it's fixed. So, have asked the dealer to consider other options. Will provide another update after the next appt.
Luder01, FYI, the TSB states that, if the car takes more than 6 secs of drifting to make a complete lane change at 55mph (i.e. 90km/h), then Honda will consider it as 'normal'. Well, I cannot agree with that because none of the dozen of cars that I have owned over the years did that!
Drew, thanks for pointing me to the Accessories board. I will be installing the ROSS system soon.
Too bad I cannot get the Bosch one that you mentioned.
Question to all ROSS owners: can the system detect obstacles/people that are in the rear but slightly off to the side?
Thanks all,
ca
Two different problems. The slider on the driver's side occasionally beeps while I'm driving for no reason. I stop the car... hit the dash button. The door will open, then close, but not engage all the way... it'll just beep. I have to open it and close it a few times.
Then there's the second problem, which is only on the passenger side. When the door is open and I go to close it by pulling the handle, it seems "dead". As if the power to it were cut.
I have to push buttons a few times till it eventually kicks in.
My van is a 2000 EX... bought it new this past November (it was stuck on a dock somewhere!). Taking it in tomorrow. They said they are going to change the locks. Hope that works! I'll let you know.
Last week I took my 2001 Ody to get the windshield replaced due to a interior crack near its base (cause: cowl clip forced during installation) and for the third visit to replace wheel well trim (cause: bad adhesive). Also when the AC engaged it periodically would create a loud clunk which you could feel. As it turned out there was a TSB for the pulley and associated clutch on the AC. I was also unhappy how the cowl trim at the base of windshield was warping.
It took the dealer three windshields (one week) to complete the repair: One wrong windshield; One broken; Third a charm. The wheel trim appears to be holding (although if it doesn't I am getting a refund). AC is fine. And the new cowl is warped just the same (I have looked at other new Ody's and ditto).
Although a week without my Ody, the dealer handled it well.
P.S. Took a trip this last weekend deep into the Ozark Mountains (Arkansas, Buffalo River area) There were a total of: four adults, two children, large cooler, double stroller, luggage (no, we are not the Clampetts), etc... 350 miles in one day and enjoyed the drive.
I will return with updates on my Ody in the future.
Good Luck,
Rich
It would be nice to go to the dealer with this info in hand when getting service done.
Thanks
Steven
My 2000 Odyssey didn't/hasn't pulled to the right--at least not what I noticed. My problem was a vibration in the steering wheel when I did 75mph or higher. Since getting the alloy rims and Michelin tires that problem seems to have gone and the whole van seems to ride smoother. I did look for the pull to the right when I got my Ody but it doesn't seem to be a problem for me.
TIA.
2HD
Just be glad you weren't doing seventy when it happened as it is quite unsettling.
I can attest that safety glass works. The windows crumbled into small granules.
Stained and Angry.
Help.
If it was only the left side, and the gas door was closed, maybe there is a problem with the sensor indicating wether the gas door is closed or open.
And leabea, the drink holders have been recognized as worthless on this board for years. Everyone buys cup holder inserts from WalMart that adjust to fit any drink (go to auto accessory dept.) Only problem is the Walmart inserts are so wide you can only use 1 insert for the forward 2 cup holders and 1 in the rear for the second row people.
If your tires are wearing prematurely, check the alignment and tire pressures.
I "cut" this from another board. This might be what you are looking for.
Don
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"Where did you get the Service Bulletin Number and the valuable information? It seems that it is very helpful and informative."
Try www.honda-odyssey.com, then click on "Info" in the menu. It's still being worked on, but all of the recalls and TSBs for each year including the Isuzu Oasis are on the page.
Jim
www.honda-odyssey.com
MY DEALER REPLACE THE OXYGEN SENSOR YESTERDAY AND TODAY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND TCS LIGHT ARE ON AGAIN.
WOULD THIS BE THE COMPUTER MODULE? WHERE CAN I GET SOME HELP. THANKS FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERIENCES.
REGARDS,
DESPERATE ODYSSEY OWNER
Cross-rotated the tires and inspected for loose bolts. Still pulling to right.
Next steps:
1) Force dealer to do TSB 00-67. He previously refused, saying that the subframe pull can cause a whole lot of other problems. He also alluded to another TSb that supersedes this one. However, I cannot find such a TSB at all.
2) Bring the car to another dealer. I called several. Only one understood what I was saying and said they have worked on this problem before.
3) Have Michelin inspect the tires for possible problems. I called Tire Rack and they said it could be due to defective tires causing radial pull.
Will provide another update as soon as one of the above is done. In the meantime, will appreciate further suggestions. Thanks.
There are several possible failures that can cause both the TCS and Check Engine lights to come on... it is unlikely, but not impossible, that you have a faulty ECM (a.k.a. "computer module"). More likely to be a bad connection or a bad sensor.
You only think you keep the TCS turned off -- as backwards as this sounds, the TCS light would be ON all the time if you had TCS turned off. When the TCS is turned on, the light comes on when the TCS detects wheelspin...otherwise the light is off if TCS is on. If you don't believe, or understand what I just wrote, I encourage you to read about it in the manual...I think Honda said it better.
I was accused of leaving the gas cap loose on mine, even though the Check Engine light came on about 350 miles after I left the gas station. The service manager scolded me, reset the light and sent me on my way. I drove from the dealer to the gas station, filled up, counted the clicks and headed home. The next day the check engine light came on again, I returned to the now contrite service manager, who had to order parts and kept my van from Friday morning till Monday night. I reminded him that if he had listened to my objections, he would have had the parts on Friday, and was given a loaner. Why does the dealer think someone who bought a VAN would find a Cavalier Coupe or a Corolla (the only two vehicles I have been offered as a loaner) adequate to meet his needs? Also note that taking a loaner involves a wait for a driver followed by a 15 minute ride to the rental car place to pick up the loaner...a procedure which must be reversed when returning to pick up the van. Ugh!
Anyway, the point is that they got mine fixed on the second try, and your's probably will be too.
There is a TSB out on this problem. Apparently, the EGR ports get clogged with carbon in the intake manifold. The fix is to reroute the PCV valve to the front of the engine, remove the manifold and clean out the ports. Get yur dealer to look up the TSB. It's listed on the NHTSA web site.
My "home brew" fix is a lot quicker to do, but isn't permanent.
At http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb
Make: honda truck
Model: odyssey
Year: 2001 or 2000 or 1999 or leave blank for all years
There isn't much except for summaries. Happy reading.
Jack
I know that my problem is unusual... I've been repeatedly told that it is unprecedented. When I was first told that Honda's Tech line said it was unprecedented, I was also told that it would be fixed, or Honda would want to have my van back, to investigate the problem. That was in May of 1999. I guess they lost interest in the meantime.
Also at that time, the mechanic was instructed to "seal" the coolant recovery bottle and radiator cap because "the owner may be siphoning the coolant." Why would I want do that on my van which had, at the time, about 5,000 miles? At any rate the mechanic did tape the caps on, and the coolant level continued to drop.
I've had a new Radiator, suggested a new radiator cap, though I'm not sure that has been tried, and suggested oil analysis. All coolant additions have been made by the dealer. The problem has proceeded too slowly (not enough repair attempts within a year) to fall under Colorado's Lemon Law. I have probably been too patient, never becoming unreasonable.
I still like the Odyssey, would buy another, just wish this little, persistent problem would go away. I worry about my wife and kids getting stranded... actually, it would be just as bad if I was along. I can't help thinking a major failure is coming and so what if Honda stands behind it when it fails? I've given them more than two years to figure it out and fix it!
I'm glad none of the rest of you are having to live with this problem, and it really hasn't caused much down time for the van... just a lot of visits to the dealership, and that constant wondering.
I'm out of ideas, guess I'll just have to wait for it to 1) get worse, 2) get better, or 3) stay the same and make me nutty.