Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Comments

  • kalajiankalajian Member Posts: 43
    Make sure that the seat back "clicks" into position when you fold it against the seat bottom. You should be able to hear an audible "click" when the backrest is properly in position folded against the seat bottom. I have experienced this problem too, but when trying to get the seat out of the magic well. Good luck.
  • sunnyml320sunnyml320 Member Posts: 2
    I've a 2002 EX-L Res and it's producing an odd engine or transmission noise between 48-53 mph. This happens intermittently while coasting and I can feel the engine/transmission shaking a bit for about 3 seconds and then it goes away. When the problem occurs, I feel as if the engine is going into a stutter mode. Any ideas?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Just a thought ....when this happens are you coasting down a hill? And did you momentarily touch the brakes? If so, you could be experiencing the the transmission "grade logic" operating. The tranny will downshift to slow the vehicle and to help reduce brake wear. It kicks in at other speeds too, but it's more noticeable when traveling at highway speeds in my van.
  • sunnyml320sunnyml320 Member Posts: 2
    No hills where I live. This happens when my foot is on the gas pedal at a steady rate between 48-53 mph. It feels as if the engine is knocking for a few seconds and then the symptom goes away.
  • markmcdonough1markmcdonough1 Member Posts: 10
    I've had what I think is the same problem since we got our 2000 ODY in Feb 2000. With ours it happens when the car shifts up to 4th gear and we're running from 50-60 mph, more or less (if you downshift to 3rd, it goes away). When it first happened, I thought the car was dieseling/pinging. The dealer cluelessly offered, "Switch to a higher octane." That didn't solve it, not surprisingly.

    I then began to see references on this site to a similar problem variously described as the "4th gear noise" or the "torque converter lockup" problem. I've checked with Honda every time I've brought the car back, but my dealer still claims ignorance.

    To me, it sounds more like the transmission is lugging (i.e., it's upshifting too early, like when you shift a manual transmission car into 4th at only 25 mph and then try to accelerate). At one point (probably 1.5 years ago) I saw a message on this board saying that one dealer had told an owner that a potential fix was in the works, so at least someone had officially recognized the problem. I lost interest after that since we rarely drive in that speed range anyway, although it is an irritating noise.
  • markmcdonough1markmcdonough1 Member Posts: 10
    I just saw your note from a few weeks back. I've got the same problem with the 4th gear rumbling noise. If you'd like an additional datapoint, let me know, and I'll send you my email address.

    Mark
  • thodges1thodges1 Member Posts: 2
    I am not sure if my post was the one being referred to from years ago, but it might have been.

    Honda Odyssey 2000

    The problem I had was referred to as a Torque Converter Lockup problem by the dealer.

    The symptom was the inability of the transmission to pick a gear around 40-50 mph on a slight incline with slight acceleration. To the driver this would feel like a surging, but other passengers may not even notice. The most notable symptom was the tachometer jumping up and down about 500 rpms.

    The dealer did eventually replace the transmission, but it took me awhile, because it was really hard to recreate.

    The way I was finally able to recreate it was get a long straight stretch of road, ideally with a slight incline. Accelerate to around 45 mph, then let off the gas (very important). That should cause the RPMs to drop to about 1400 or 1500, then start accelerating very slowly, but consistently (don't let the rpms get to high). Try not to speed up too much, (this is why the incline helps), but the RPMs remain relatively stable. Then suddenly, the RPMs will jump (I think the torque converter unlocks), immediately after that, it then decides to 'lock', so the RPMs drop down to where they were. Then up, then down, etc. This will go on until something changes (more gas, let off the gas, speed gets too slow, speed gets too fast, etc).

    I finally did this with a service manager in the car, and a 2nd time with a mechanic in the car. Later the service manager told me the mechanic was able to do it by himself. They intended to hook up a computer to it, but not sure if they did. After that they finally decided to just replace the transmission.

    Over time, it did get easier to recreate the problem. The new transmission has never had this problem, but it seems to shift a little harder than the first one, but not bad enough to complain about. I think the transmission was replaced around 20000 miles. The new transmission now has around 17000 miles on it.

    The dealer in this case was Lute Riley Honda in Richardson, TX.
  • wolfheadwolfhead Member Posts: 5
    RE: Post 2055 The sliding doors continue to stick on my 2001 LX. I have had the latches and gaskets replaced and the gaskets sprayed with silicone as recently as last week. I thought it was only a cold weather problem but the sliding doors refuse to open in warm weather too.
  • auburn63auburn63 Member Posts: 1,162
    The top sub seal is the main one you want to lubricate and the Shin-etsu greese from a dealer works best. They also have the ability and product to use slip tape but the lube is usally good enough, but it must be on the sub seal. As well there is a new sub seal available if you didnt get one with the replacement seal they did. Depending on how long ago you did the seals, they used to just replace the one that goes around the door. To get the sticking door open with out breaking the handle you can reach up top and pull out on the door as you try and open this breaks loodse the subseal that is stuck to the door.
  • markmcdonough1markmcdonough1 Member Posts: 10
    Tracy:

    It may well have been your note that I saw a year ago. I also saw other notes that referred to a torque converter lockup problem. Perhaps I confused those problem descriptions with my own, but I thought at least one note I read described symptoms that were very similar to mine.

    My case is definitely a bit different than yours. My transmission doesn't hunt for a gear like yours did. In fact, if I slow down, it stays in 4th pretty firmly. It also doesn't seem to happen just when it's pulling a load (such as when we're climbing a hill). I just get the feeling that it's upshifting too soon, hence the sensation of lugging. If you put the car in 3rd manually, it goes away. In fact, one of the service managers at my Honda Dealer recommended that I fix this by always driving in 3rd gear!!! (Gee, I'm only getting 17 MPG now; I wonder what I'd get if I never used 4th?)

    Did they change your transmission just because of the problem you described? That was good service. Based on some accounts, I had assumed your transmission would have to be mostly dead before Honda would swap it out. Although your problem did sound pretty severe. Mine is more of an irritant than anything, but why should a $29K car have a "lugging" problem?
  • thodges1thodges1 Member Posts: 2
    It may or may not be the same problem.

    I would have classified mine as pretty much an irritant also, but since it continued to get easier and easier to do, I think they understood something was wrong.

    I also did forget to mention that if I ran in D3, the problem went away. D3 basically disables the torque converter, so of course it will not have that problem.

    Maybe one of the reasons they changed out the transmission, was because I got to tell them about having to drive 100 miles on icy roads between Louisiana and Texas around 40 mph with heavy traffic. Ideally, I would have been able to drive with contant speed a few car lengths from everyone else. But instead, the transmission kept doing its thing and I had to either give it more gas or slow down. Not good on ice with alot of traffic. That went on for awhile until I figured out that D3 made the problem go away.

    That was an interesting trip. We got to spend midnight new years eve 2001 stuck in a backlog of cars on the side of the highway near Longview, TX. Perhaps some of you remember watching a Bowl game from Shreveport, LA that was in a heavy snow fall (we drove right by that.)
  • canajunehcanajuneh Member Posts: 1
    Wow, what an interesting topic! I thought it was only me.
    I haven't been on this site for a while and I have missed a lot of good stuff.
    I have an '01 Ody with 50,000 kms on it, (thats about 30,000 miles). I first noticed this noise last year in July just before starting a long road trip which covered about 5,000 miles through the south-east US. Before we left, I went to my local dealer with my concerns and a technician came out for a ride with me. He says he had never heard a noise like this before, and figured it was emanating from an air-intake (?). Assuring me that this was not a problem, other than a strange noise, we went on our holidays. He was right, there was no problem. (By the way we averaged about 22 mpg, not too shabby for a big van.)
    Now my wife has become aware of the noise. and like some previous writers here, I can isolate the noise as occurring in high gear at around 50 mph when I am accelerating. I guess its time to revisit my local Honda dealer and get serious with them.
    Thanks to all for making me aware of a potential big-time problem. I'll definitely stay tuned at this site for more news.
  • bryannbryann Member Posts: 54
    i have a 2001 EX with 30K miles. i just got the service done, but i am having real issues withe front brakes. at 8k miles, they turned the rotors because they had a real bad shake in the steering wheel from being warped. 3k miles later, the shake came back with a vengence. took it back to dealer for same issue and they gave me new rotors. at 30k service they resurfaced rotors and new pads this time as well. they said the front pads were worn out. this is the first car that i have had so many problems with the rotors before. anyone else experiencing any of the same kind of issues?
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    99EX front brake pads replaced at 60k and 120k, Rotors not turned either time. Presently 142k on the van. Rear shoes at 120k. Drums not turned either.
  • kthenkekthenke Member Posts: 12
    I have a '99 EX and have had a few problems with the power seat (track that goes fore and aft) but was covered under warranty. A few days ago I noticed a loud clicking sound when reach the furthest position forward with the reclining switch. I have taken the side plastic cover off to investigate and it appears to be coming from the mechnism leading from the motor to the recline hinge. In the past the motor would simply stop when I reached the end of the adjustment, now a hideous clicking noise eminates.

    Anyone else have this problem? Any fixes, without a trip to the dealer?
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    I didn't know the 99 EX came with a power seat. Does it have the lumbar support also?
  • tjutju Member Posts: 20
    The non-powered right side sliding door on my '99 Ody LX (62K miles) was serviced yet again yesterday (6th time counting both right and left side) because it sticks and won't open. The dealer replaced the broken handle (3rd time on that side) and put slip tape on the rubber door seals. By the time I got home (3 mile drive), that slider was jamming and not opening again!!! This is very frustrating!
    Why can't Honda, with their reputation for good engineering, design a sliding door that works? I also own an '88 Mitsubishi van with 190K miles on it and its single (right side) slidler has never had a problem. My previous Nissan van never had a problem with its slider. My neighbor's Dodge van never seems to have a problem with its sliders. Why can't Honda get it right???
    I picked the Ody partly because of its size and utility, but also because of Honda's reputation for bulletproof reliability. What a disappointment! The transmission goes bad, the tires wear very rapidly on the inside edge of their tread surfaces, and the sliding doors have to be repaired every few months. If I wanted this kind of hastle, I could have bought a Caravan or a Windstar and gotten a much better deal. Frankly, when it comes to making minivans, Honda sucks!
  • bdaddybdaddy Member Posts: 171
    Sorry you're having all those problems with your van. You may have already done this, but if I were you, I'd put a call in to Honda and take these issues up with them. Doesn't hurt to try.
  • mnorlandomnorlando Member Posts: 3
    Today I went to have my 2000 Odyssey's oil changed at our local Jiffy Lube. I was told my transmission fluid didn't even register on the stick! We are careful to take the car (van) every 3000 miles for an oil change. We were surprised to say the least! Apparently there is a leak. Help, help! Has anybody else had this experience?
    More fluid was put into the system and it took about a quart. The entire system holds between 6 and 7 quarts, I was told. I just "cringe" with the thought of any transmission problems. Yes, there is a stain on our garage floor where the van is normally parked. I would love some advice if any of you kind folks have any. thanks!
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    I don't know what to tell you about your transmission, but another mistake you're making is having them put in more transmission fluid. I will bet you that they put in generic Dexron ATF, but Honda specifically requires Honda ATF for the Ody. Dexron will screw up your tranny big time. Better take it to the dealer and have it drained and inspected, while you're there to have the tranny checked out for the leak.
  • mnorlandomnorlando Member Posts: 3
    Hello Dave, thanks for responding to my message. Hope you are still out there! I would like to know how the fluid Jiffy Lube put in might damage the transmission. How immediate is the problem?
    Thanks for your input!
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    I don't know this for a fact, because I don't bring my van to Jiffy Lube, I use the dealer for servicing. But other posters in the past have said that the Jiffy Lubes and other quick lube places pretty much only carry one type of ATF, and that's the generic Dexron ATF used by most cars. However, the Odyssey, like the DC vans, are heavy vehicles using what is pretty much a passenger car auto tranny. The transmission have to handle the additoinal weight of the van and requires special high friction ATF. The DC vans use MOPAR ATF, and the Honda uses Honda ATF. Read the owner's manual, I think it makes clear that only Honda ATF must be used. Using the wrong ATF can result in early failure of your transmission. If you use Dexron that might be cause for voiding the warranty.
  • crkeehncrkeehn Member Posts: 513
    The Honda and DC vans are designed to specifically use a fluid with a particular coefficient of friction. The DC transmission is electronically controlled (I suspect the Honda one is also) and uses the computer to shift between gears. The DC fluid allows for a great deal of slippage as the shifting is done electronically rather than mechanically. The use of the wrong fluid (Dexron, which is the generic fluid carried by Jiffy Lube) is fairly "grippy". The use of it in a DC transmission basically does damage to the clutches.
  • whambamwhambam Member Posts: 37
    In the ol' days, there were 2 types of auto trannies - the Ford, using 4 sets of clutches/rings/bands, and the GM, using 5 sets of same. The Ford, short 1 set of "grippers" needed a grittier fluid = Type F. The GM's needed a more slippery fluid = Dexron.

    A common shade-tree mechanic "fix" for a GM used car with a slipping tranny was to stick the grittier Type F fluid in there, and fool the buyer - for awhile. To do the reverse for a slipping Ford tranny would only exacerbate the slippage.

    I haven't kept up with the DC/Honda requirement for a less(per Dave594) or more(per Crkeehn) slippery Dexron-type fluid, but I can't see how the method of actuation of the clutches - be it hydraulic pressure or electro-mechanical, whether computer-controlled or not - should make any difference IRT the gripping qualities of the fluid.

    I'm trying to say that, tho there may well be a difference in the fluids required, the method of clutch actuation should not be the cause of that difference.

    If the requirement for a fluid different from Dexron is real, I'm surprised that this didn't generate a new type of fluid - call it Type DCH or whatever, particularly since DC puts out such heavy numbers of vans.
  • crkeehncrkeehn Member Posts: 513
    DC requires the use of ATF +3 (type 7176) or for newer vehicles ATF +4 (type 9602)

    Honda also requires the use of their specific ATF in their transmissions
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    According to my 01 Ody Honda's Owner's Manual page 259. It says always use Honda ATF-Z1. DEXRON III is ok to use as a temporary replacement. " Howerer, continued use can affect shift quality. Have the transmission drained and refilled with Honda ATF-Z1 as soon as it is convenient."

    I am not going to discuss about whether DEXRON III is technically equivalent to Honda ATF-Z1 or not. IMHO due to some Ody transmission problems posted, I am not going to risk my Honda Warranty in case my Ody transmission acting up. Honda could blame on not following owner's manual for not using Honda's ATF-Z1, and I have to pay the bill.
    NO SIR.

    Honda ATF-Z1 only in my Honda.

    ben
  • vannerlifevannerlife Member Posts: 2
    I am glad to see more conversation about the transmission problem at 45-52mph. My dealer, CrownHonda, has at least been willing to research this problem further for me, but needs information on vans that have been FIXED (see message #2072). It seems that a guest by the name of "tanrdn" has gotten the problem solved (#2041), but may not be checking this message board any more to notice that CrownHonda has asked for his/her assistance. Is there anyone else who has succeeded in getting their dealer to replace the transmission due to this rumbling noise between 4th/5th gears? If so, would you be willing to respond to #2072 CrownHonda with specifics? It would help us all to get Honda to fix the problem for good. Thanks.
  • bryannbryann Member Posts: 54
    i also have issues with the brakes. 15k, seems way to early to have to fix brakes. before you get your brakes done, does the steering wheel have a bad shake? i realize i am a later braker, but i have owned cars and suv's and never had this type of brake problem. my cars brakes usually last about 40k and my truck laster about 25-30k miles. just wanted to know if there was something else going on with the brakes. thanks.
  • ohloneohlone Member Posts: 55
    I've seen questions about fair pricing for used Odyssey's pre 2002. Since the 2002 has the new transmission that hasn't yet shown any problems that seem common on the older models I'd say you have to fold in the cost of an extended warranty to protect your interest.

    Seeing all the pre 2002 tranny problems on this message board would be alarming for any car. The fact that it is a Honda and so many dealers play dumb is dissapointing.

    I love my 2002 Odyssey, but this is definitely a case where waiting a few years on a "new" model paid off.
  • dave594dave594 Member Posts: 218
    I don't know what the problem with the resale value is. My 99 LX probably can fetch about $19k or so if I sell it myself (this part sucks as my Virginia personal property taxes are based on bluebook, so my taxes on the van are higher because of this). I paid $23.4 k for it 3+ years ago, so that amounts to about $4k or so of depreciation. Not bad at all for a car. Look at the comparable DC van, a 99 Caravan or T&C is fetching about $10-12k or so.
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    alexjr1, bryann:

    Make sure you didn't replace your brake pads too soon. My old Mercury Villager front break pads only last 15K miles. I just took my 01 Ody to get 15 k miles service. My front brake pad has 6 MM rear shoe lining has 4 MM left.
    According to Helms Manual ( I don't own one, I heard it 2nd hand information) states 'Standard' front pad thickness is 10.5-11.5 MM, service limit is 1.6 MM. The '01's drum lining 'Standard' thickness is 4.5 MM. Service limit is 2.0 MM. 'Standard' is the same as new, from elsewhere in the manual.

    I drive my Ody much aggressive than my old Villager. So my front brake pad wore out 4.5-5.5 MM in 15k. I should have 10-15 k on my front pad, and another 45-50 K for my rear lining. It is much better than my old Villager brake pads.

    bjk
  • larcklarck Member Posts: 22
    All this talk about transmission problems on Odys make my head hurt. Yes I own a 2000 LX and unfortunately the tranny is junk just like most other 1999 through 2001 models are. Mine leaks and shifts goofy and no dealer solution is in sight.

    By the way, the maintenance schedule on page 230 of the owners manual has the tranny fluid change interval at 45,000 miles or 36 months under normal conditions. Severe conditions are 30,000 miles or 24 months.

    I have right at 30,000 miles after three years but the dealer says a fluid change will not help the leak or shift pattern. Question, since it leaks just enough to get the underside of the housing greasey but does not drip yet, do I just drive as is or push for a replacement? The goofy shift pattern has been the same since new, no better but no worse. I do have the HondaCare 7/100,000 warranty also. Opinions?
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    Just leaking alone is a reason for a changeout and since it doesn't shift right, there is another reason. Try to find another owner and drive his to see if it shifts the way yours does. There are some Ody's starting to appear in used car lots so there is another source. Ask to drive one and compare. I bought the 2002 and I'm glad I waited.
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    If there is something wrong with leak and shifting, why are you waiting to get it fixed? Honda is selling hundred thousand Odyssey a year, no doubt there will have some had problems. You will read about problem posts more often than no complaint posts, it's human natural. I disagree Ody tranny IS JUNK LIKE MOST OTHER 1999 through 2001 Odyssey. Honda made 160,000 Odyssey each year, From 1999-2001 roughly 480,000 Odyssey were built. If most of the Odyssey have junk Tranny. You should see Used Car Lot Loaded with 1999-2001 Odyssey. How many used Odyssey can you find on a good day?

    I have a 01 Ody EX. I don't even purchase Honda Warranty. You purchased Honda Extended Warranty exercise your right if there is something wrong about your Odyssey.
  • ohloneohlone Member Posts: 55
    bjk2001

    I agree that more people are likely to take the time to complain than give apprasal (human nature), but then again this thread is for Odyssey problems.

    It does not appear to me to be an aberation of tranny problems with the Odyssey pre-2002. And the fact that Honda made the effort to change the transmission in the 2002 model is a clear indicator that they realized there is a problem.

    Why else would Honda make the effort to upgrade the tranny in the middle of a design cycle?
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Perhaps the modified transmission change mid-cycle would be to add features to a 3 YO design in order to maintain sales growth vis a vis the competition?

    Your logic would suggest that bump in HP from 205 to 240 (a major engineering change) was a result of a problem with the engine.

    My 00 Ody with the "problematic" tranny has no bumps, clunks, slips, etc of any sort.
  • larcklarck Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the reply's. You guys are right in that I need to get the tranny looked at. Other than that problem, we like the van. My fear was that pulling the transmission is a complex process and I was afraid that a lesser experienced mechanic would make matters worse. Everyone knows someone who has an auto repair horror story regardless of what kind of vehicle thay have. When a vehicle is in need of repair, I tend to think most of the repair problems we hear about are with the quality of the repair itself than with the vehicle.
  • jcampa1jcampa1 Member Posts: 7
    Got back from a trip to New York and posted a lot of information in the "Towing with a mini-van " site. (post # 474). I love my 2002 Honda! It has preformed flawlessly. Unfortunetly it gave me my first "heart attack" last week. I have only 7,920 miles and I changed the oil at 7,500 for the "break in" period. I will change it at 3,500 mile intervals from now on. I started the engine to take the family to church and all of a sudden the engine started to vibrate violently and then the "check engine" light came on. I thought it was something I did or didn't do. Well I took it to the dealer and it turned out to be a "misfire" code that the computer registered and nothing else. They did not have to fix anything or change any parts at this time. They just cleared the code and the misfire never re occurred. The print out says (P0301, 0303, 0304) cylinder misfire. I'll keep an eye out for any future problems. Over all I can't complain, yet.
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    Comments on ODY tranny. I believe the tranny was changed to a 5 speed from a 4 speed not because of any problems, but for parts commanlity with their SUV.
    I have a 99 with over 61,000 miles on it. My OEM Firestone tires lasted over 48, 000 miles. My rear drum brakes are the original, I replaced the front disks at a little over 50,000 miles. I get an average of 20.5 MPG with a little more highway than city driving. It still runs like new.
  • ecatecat Member Posts: 11
    what would really be funny is if that special Honda only transmission fluid was the reason for the high rate of failure in the tranny's

    well maybe not funny but its odd to me that Chrysler MV's have been known to drop transmissions early and now Honda and both require special fluid.

    Of course, if Honda says it voids the warranty then I'm not going to argue, and I'm going to do what they require.
  • ohloneohlone Member Posts: 55
    I have not seen reports of problems with the engine in the older Odyssey models. However it's quite evident that the tranny pre-2002 has quite a few people experiencing problems and it recures even after bringing it it for repair. Sure there are probably many more working trannies than broken ones, but I'm swayed by the number of people in this thread who have reported problems.

    Before my Odyssey, I had a MBZ ML320 and it had all kinds of build quality problems, but the tranny was great - it was a mechanicly sound car with many annoying build quality issues. The Odyssey tranny issue leads me to believe there is a design issue and Honda corrected it by replacing the part altogether. Perhaps it helped excellerate getting the newer more powerful engine as well - who knows?
  • robr2robr2 Member Posts: 8,805
    Unless we work for Honda, we will never really know the reason for the change to 5 sp. IMO it's because of competitive reasons/product standardization, your opinion is bad tranny.

    Honda sold appx 450,000 Odys for my 99-01. Statistically, the sampling here is insignificant - perhaps less than 50 unique examples.
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    I didn't check for one day and missed all the fun stuffs here. Let me jump on this 2002 change issue. I agree with robr2 and pat84. Typical Japanese car for each model has 4-5 year cycle, that doesn't mean Japanese car only lasts 4-5 years. Typical in the mid model year the 3rd year, they will upgrade some of the design, in this case Odyssey gets new 5 sp and same 3.5 L engine with multiple stage variable timing. Also Honda changed brakes from front disc rear drum to all disc on 2002 Odyssey.
    Honda designed MDX to kick butt in luxury SUV market so they have to get as much out of Engine and Tranny as possible. In this case Odyssey get the benefits from MDX, keep in mind MDX and Odyssey are assembled side by side. Once they converted Ody to match MDX engine and tranny, they can drop two different assemblies and double the volume, this means alot in mass production.

    Also Ody is due to have a redesign in 2004, some rumor says it may increase engine from 240 HP to 260 HP. If Odyssey gets 260 HP engine, does it mean current 240 HP 3.5 L is a piece crap. NO SIR/MA'AM.

    They keep on improving on their design so we consumer will keep on buying new car. Just like buying new pc every couple years. My old pc still works great for what I need to do. Internet surfing, balance my check book and some minor stuffs. But I want to get a new 2G PC with all the fancy stuffs.

    Well these are my two cents!

    ben
  • ohloneohlone Member Posts: 55
    50 people writing in here about bad trannies is significant, unless your indicating that the other 449,950 Odyssey owners are all happy and represented in this thread.

    If you look at the 'problem' threads for other cars you will typically see a manage of issues. This one sticks out to me. You also need to recognize the tranny as being one of the most expesive things to fix in a car. A bad fuel pump or starter would be relatively minor.
  • markg4190markg4190 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    We just got a 2000 EX it seems to do a wierd thing if you take a corner to close. As you enter the turn the interior lights will flash on and off. Also after making a sharp turn there is a low buzzing sound from the side doors. This remains constant until you press the "close" buttons for the both doors. Has anyone had experience with this?
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    markg4190:

    Sounds like a door switch problem to me. Maybe contact is dirty, try clean gold contact with IPA wipe or rubber eraser then IPA wipe see if it will help?

    bjk
  • rockycowrockycow Member Posts: 114
    bjk2001 what's a IPA wipe?
  • bjk2001bjk2001 Member Posts: 358
    Isopropyl Alcohol Sorry!
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    IPA leaves a film. An Electric Contact Cleaner does not.
  • branch15_5branch15_5 Member Posts: 44
    On your first tranny problem (clunk in reverse), did your dealer replace or repair the tranny?

    I'm having the same problem occasionally on my '99, and I'd like to know what your fix was. If it was a repair, what exactly did they repair?

    Unfortunately, I'm at 61K miles with no extended warranty.

    Thanks for the info.
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