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Comments
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Quote:
"It don't save fuel, it runs hotter and doesn't get as good of gas mileage plus it also leaves more carbon deposits in the engine. You may find you get a little better mileage with 87."
End quote
Are you sure about it? Higher octane gas will leave carbon deposits in the engine?
I think it's the other way around. For an Internal combustion 4 cycle engine, higher Octane gas means gas will ignite at the higher temperature. For higher compression ratio "performance
engine" it require higher octane gas. Which means gas inside the engine camber will not ignite prematurely in the compression cycle (before spark plug ignites the gas air mixture). Typical when a car didn't get a completely (clean) burning its gasoline, it will leave some carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. In a long run, if enough carbon deposits accumulated inside the combustion chamber, it will make engine's detonation (combustion) sooner than it is designed. Sometimes we get dieseling in the car, one way to help it is to use higher octane gas to prevent gas burning not expectingly.
dodama;
I don't think you need to wait till 10K to see MPG improvement. Once passed your break in period, you should see improvement on your MPG. Keep in mind your 02 has 240 HP engine and weight likes an elephant.
My 01 getting about 18.6 MPG 70% freeway and 30% service street. My daughter's 02 Civic EX 100% service street short trip about 8-900 miles now, she gets only just a little over 22 MPG. You could go to lower octane 87 gas, money you save from premium to 87 will cover the mileage difference.
Regards,
bjk
My problems have been:
1. Pull to right. Problem solved by "tweeking" the alignment.
2. Passenger side door opens for unknown reasons. Problem was present when the car was delivered and still has not been solved. Seems to be associated with temperature variation, vibration or shock. Approximately a year ago the service department rerouted cables and replaced the rear latch on the door. Door did not open on its own for almost a year. In April of this year Honda replaced the transmission under warranty. Door has opened five times since the transmission was replaced.
3. Transmission problem. Day after delivery the transmission made a "grinding" sound in reverse which went away after a few seconds. Sounded somewhat like a dry bearing. Several months later the grinding noise repeated followed by a rumble which also went away after driving the vehicle for a few miles. Also on a few occasions I had the transmission "clunk" in reverse. Next the transmission would slip when trying to rapidly accelerate. Honda replaced the transmission at 24,000 miles under warranty.
I still like the vehicle and would buy another. Honda service has been outstanding but I wish the Honda engineers would solve the door problem (which is more of an irritant than a problem).
Thanks, I am glad your brother agrees with me too. Which means I didn't forget what I learned in Internal Combustion Engine class when I was in college 20 years ago. My professor should be proud of me.
spangler1:
Are you still getting 24 MPG? That's darn good. I never get that even I drive 100% on freeway. Sorry to hear about your Tranny and Door problem. Have you asked your dealer to do what they had done a year ago to fix your door problem?
If not maybe you could check if lemon law will apply so you may be able to get a new Odyssey?
Regards,
bjk
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Is there an easy way to sort through all the post to look at transmission issues only?
My Honda dealer is very cooperative on the door problem. He has contacted Honda Engineering several times. They haven't a clue as what is causing the problem. I also talked with the Honda Engineer. Same conclusion - he didn't have a clue and put an extended warranty on the doors.
I have had over 40 years experience as an Electrical Engineer and have seen intermittent problems of this nature many times. Could be a bad cable (maybe not even associated with the door); a broken track on a printed circuit card; an intermittent integrated circuit; a solder ball or other conductive particle moving around somewhere in the electronics; or, dozen's of other similar problems. Sometimes the only fix for these kinds of problems is wholesale change out of the electronics, cables and connectors. In my opinion this kind of major surgery could cause more problems than it would fix. So far the door has not opened when the vehicle is in motion. If that ever happens then I would consider calling the vehicle a lemon. So far the problem is only an irritant and with the performance I am getting I don't really want to get rid of it.
You got VERY good mileage. Must be the emission control device they installed in California car gives us bad gas mileage.
I guess its ok regarding you door problem as long as it's a nuisance not a safety problem.
Since Honda's engineer won't be able to tell where the real problem is. How about asking them to follow the process of elimination "replace one thing at a time"? Which means your Ody will be in and out the shop alot. LOL.. Even a better one, ask Honda if they are really interested to learn what the problem might be? Are they willing to buy the Ody back from you and take it back to factory to really tear it down to see what the real problem is?
Like you said could be a solder ball trapped between two component leads, maybe a lead just sits on top of its pad not really soldered down to pad or a scrapped insulation on a cable, how about pinched or nicked cable/wire.....? mmmmm???
Regards,
bjk
Good luck. For those with the same problems and wish to discuss in a constructive manner and in more details, feel free to post your msg here or e-mail me directly.
I have a 2001 LX with over 24,000 miles on it. My average fuel mileage on highway travel in the hilly country where I live is 24 miles per gallon (U.S. gallon). I have averaged 30 mpg when driving 60 mph in flat country. I have been using 87 octane fuel.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
As long as you're pulling within the weight limits of Ody, and have the auxilliary cooler you should be fine. Normal highway travel is fine, it's the long slow pulls up winding mountain passes, where there's reduced airflow through your radiator that generates heat. Even worse is backing trailer uphill - almost no airflow. Ultimate heat generator is getting stuck and rocking transmission from drive to reverse in attempt to get unstuck. Things can get too hot pretty fast. However, you may have to be careful with van in overdrive - if you find it shifting in and out of the top gear frequently, keep it in the next lower gear. You may get somewhat lower mileage but less wear 'n tear on transmission.
When transmission gets too hot, the automatic transmission fluid degrades - the friction modifiers get broken down. I tow about 10,000 lbs with an F350 pickup about 5-7K miles/year. It has a transmission temp gauge and I try to never let it go much above 200 F. (I don't know how to hook one up on Ody - but it would be useful)
Tip: Smell your transmission dip stick fluid now when it's new, later on if you suspect you've overheated tranny, the fluid will actually have a burnt aroma to it. If you've overheated it, (provided you haven't driven too far) you can sometimes save yourself an $$$$ repair by having transmission/torque converter - drained/flushed and have the filter changed ASAP. If you haven't gone too far on the degraded fluid, replacing it can prevent your transmission from self destructing.
General towing tip - front wheel drive vehicles can be a when handfull towing, the van/trailer tend to wobble back and forth. Rear wheel drive is much more stable. Also, I wouldn't push the 3500 lb limit too much - I think that number is the dry weight. When they calculate towing capacity they only have driver in van without luggage or full fuel tank. Actual towing capacity is usually pro-rated by the number of passengers and luggage the van is carrying.
My second issue is a low frequency sound coming from what I think is the transmission. Once I hit 82 kph, a low frequency rumble or exhaust sound kicks in. The noise immediately stops when I take my foot off the gas even though I am maintaining the same speed. If I slightly step on the accelerator to maintain my speed the noise is back. If I step on the gas hard to accelerate, the noise disappears. It seems as if the noise only persists while the transmission is in 4th gear. At higher speeds i.e. over 110 kph I do not hear the sound. If I slow down from 85 kph to 75 kph the noise persists as long as the transmission is in 4th gear.
1) Whistling noise around 60mph, I still haven't figured out where it's coming from. My hunch is that it's caused by the design of the mirrors.
2) Low frequency rumble in 4th gear -- I haven't taken it to the dealer yet, but it seems like if you are in 4th gear cruising between 40-55 mph you can hear it. I also noticed that the RPM's also drop. If you increase the rpm's a little bit the noise goes down also.
Maybe someone who know a little more about gear ratios can explain this to us.
just had my oil changed at the local 10 minute lube, then immediately took my honda on a 700 mile trip. Prior to the return trip, I opened the hood and to my horror found that the "mechanic" didn't put the oil cap back on.
So I go to another local oil lube center and have the engine flushed and oil changed.
Prior to taking the car in my Maint Req'd light was on (I hadn't taken it into Honda for the maintenance yet). After changing my oil I noticed the light was off.
I don't think the guy did anything different to the car. Does anyone know the trick to turning off the maint req'd light (besides paying Honda $300 for routine maitenance?)
After reading the above posts, I'm not ever going to tow anything with my Honda. Its not worth it. I have a 2000 Odyssey.
Dave
My van has just over 50,000 miles and if you have read my previous posts, I was told it needs a new transmission and I need to pay $2,000 out of the total cost of around $5,500. At this point, I refuse to pay that amount and any amount for that matter since I do believe the tranny is defective for this model. Furthermore, I am not sure how long the replacement tranny will last since it's the same defective (but only re-manufactured) tranny that is being put in. Thus, I will likely sell the van after I have the current tranny problem taken of.
I am in the SF Bay Area. I have contacted a Class Action lawyer in writing very recently but so far no reply yet. At the same time, I have contacted Channel 7 On Your Side (ABC), an investigative/consumer advocate news segment hosted by Michael Finney. I will continue to apply pressure and get my tranny replaced at or near zero cost. Even with the problem taken care of eventually, I would likely press on and puruse legal action against Honda America, possibly through a Class Action lawsuit provided I can find a Class Action firm that feels this cause of action is worth pursuing and is on merit. With such a widespread and seemingly prevalent problem with the tranny for this particular model, I feel that Honda should be held accountable for the product defect.
My guess is that your dealer & Honda are going out of their way to fund some of the replacement cost since you had the service work done at the dealer, even though it's out of warranty.
my .02, usual disclaimers ....
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I wonder how many Odyssey owners unnecessarily had their transmissions replaced and ended up paying the entire cost out of their own pockets? These are the people who really have an issue to take up with the manufacturer, along with people who have to pay part of the cost for a premature transmission failure. Many people, including myself, purchased a Honda for its quality reputation. I bought the Odyssey even before I had ever driven the van (due to a lack of inventory in those days) and was one of the first people in the U.S. to own one. Shortly after, I have also "sold" many of my friends on it and persuaded them to buy the Odyssey instead of the Sienna or the Grand Caravan or the likes. Of course, this was well before the transmission problem surfaced and became obvious. To say the least, thus far, I have found that this vehicle has been quite disappointing.
My confidence in this particular van is not good! Once the initial crisis has been resolved (van repaired/returned), I'm not sure what my long term solution is. I don't think I could ever feel confident in taking this one on the road again. Perhaps I should ask for a trade into a newer model? Maybe abandon Honda altogether? Are the 2002's any better? Perhaps hold out for an exchange into a 2003? Any advice?
Sorry to hear about your 4th tranny on your Ody. Have you tried to get Honda buy it back or trade you a 02 or 03 ones?
What did the dealer say when you have to replace 3 tranny? Were you getting rebuild tranny or new ones?
Good luck to your 4th ones.
bjk
I used to run a Honda dealer, and they make a decent product..but I have always felt that when they have a "hot" product, and charge a premium, it is such an insult to the consumer! Now, add this transmission issue....
A word of advice to all you frustrated Honda owners....A warranty is only an obligation for the manufacturer to repair your broken item. New or remanufactured...it doesnt matter....send other customers to buy this product...it doesnt matter....have driven them since I could drive...it doesn't matter...bought 2 Hondas before...IT DOES'NT MATTER.... A piece of information for all of you....Chrysler had bad trannies in their minivans for years...and the dealers had the "discretion" from Chrysler to repair them as they wanted to.....Toyotas are eating head gaskets...and the dealer is also allowed to fix them at their discretion.....I could go on and on with different stories...my bottom line is this....if you buy your product from a reputable dealer, and want to establish a long term relationship with them....those are the dealers that will take care of their customers in the long run.....
As in any industry,there are bad dealers, as there are many good ones also.
By the way...look up Acura TL, I hear they are having he same tranny problems!
What was the fix for post #1473? Anyone else have problem with strong gas vapor odor?? I do not have a fuel leak that I can see.
Suddenly i.e. about 1500 miles ago, I started noticing that van is running very sluggishly. It can not hold its speed without lots of upshifting.
Usually, my wife drives the van during daily communtes. I drive it on weekends.
One weekend it was fine but the next weekend, I noticed the general lackluster throttle response. At that time, I attributed it to bad
gas as my wife had filled the tank at a name-brand but not our usual gas station.
We just came back from MA-VA-MA trip and the gas mileage on highway was atrocious. Once after filling the tank, the gas light came on at 240 miles :-(
I have already gone through 2 (20oz) bottles of Techron, the best fuel system cleaner additive on the market. At VA, I replaced the air-cleaner
element. The original one was dirty but NOT filthy.
Unfortunately, that did not improve anything.
The van starts immediately and idles fine. Apart from behaving as if something is holding it back, there are no other apparent symptoms. No
malfunction indicator light has been turned on by computer. It feels as if engine is not breathing right or as if the high speed carburator circuit is clogged up. Of course, there is no carburator to clog! If fuel pump has gone weak, the computer would notice it. A bad injector would give un-even idle. Bad engine temperature sensor would result in OK cold engine response but
lousy hot engine behaviour. None of these things are happening.
I check the tailpipe. I believe black soot has started forming inside the pipe. I occasionaly smell typical "running-rich" smell on acceleration which indicates that van must be running extremely rich. All of the indications
point to over-reach mixture condition.
The lack of performance is apparent whether engine is cold or at normal operating temperature. Incidentally, the temperature gauge is at its usual normal location. I have popped up the hood after long drive and the engine
does not feel exceedingly hot either.
Even if I turned both A/C off, the performance still does not come back to normal.
Given that the entire engine management system is electronically controlled, I would have thought that computer would have noticed something wrong but so far it has not. I do not recall there is anything which need to be replaced at this mileage.
I will get the fuel-filter replaced and might opt to have spark plug replaced. I do not really think either could be at fault though :-(
Any ideas?
Thanks!
I have 2002 Ody LX and it has wheel alingment problem from the day one. The dealer alread perform wheel alingment when it had about 100 miles on it. Currently, it has about 1850 miles on it and I am planning to take it back to dearler for alingment. I have read your post (#1949) where you are listing the TSB # 00-067. I tried to find the bulletin which is listed for dodge ram van not for odyssey. Please see the link below.
http://www.jlwarranty.com/ch-warranty-tips01-body.htm
If you happen to know the correct bulletin number of know the internet link, can you please post it for me. This will be very helpful.
Talked to a Honda mechanic (friend of a friend) but a trustworthy source quote: "Change the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles screw the owner's manual."