Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

alexmish

I had the same problem on my 01 EX - the different air pressure in the front tires was the cause.

Check the pressure first ! If it is OK, then I've seen posts here about a need to have the front subframe shifted.

caviller

Most likely, the problem can be mostly or completely fixed. Our 2001 LX had no pull to right. On flat roads, it tracks perfectly straight, on roads with a crown it will drift slightly left or right with the crown. There is a little torque steer during hard acceleration. People have reported various solutions including regular alignment, re-balancing tires, tire inflation/rotation, tire/wheel upgrades, etc. There is also a fix posted here:

http://www.honda-accessories.com/odyssey/drift.pdf

The problem may not be real common overall, but it is one of the more typical complaints you see on the forums (Suspension, sliding doors and transmission/Torque converter problems seem to be most typical).

FYI, for delivery there is a nice checklist:
http://www.1netweb.com/checklist.htm

Finally, you can see list of problems by going to the NHTSA complaints forum (http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/compmmy1.cfm). The Odyssey is listed in the "Honda Truck" category.

gleamc

I know I'm late responding to post # 4 and #5 but....

I too had a hard time getting use to putting the van in park so the power doors could be opened, so I modify the wiring to the EX power doors so they can be opened in drive.

After the mod the doors still will not open when the van is in motion, you must be stopped. The van has two power door safety features, (park and motion) disabling one does not effect the other.

Some time back there was much debate as to whether the modification was wise, but the doors on the LX can be opened anytime... including in motion.
(You can for your own safety put the van in park whenever stopped, but LX owners, when dropping the kids off for school, do not have to put the van in park so the doors can be opened,
is the LX van less safe?
or is the driver less safe?)

I do not wish to restart the safety debate again so if anyone is interested in how this was done, let me know.

timothyadavis

I promise not to start anything this time. Post a link or the instructions, if it's easier for you. Thank you for sharing the knowledge too! :-)

njody2k1

I got my 2k1 Ody LX MB from NJ Dealer on 12/09. I didn't take test dirve before signing papers and while driving home noticed few problems:
1. Steering is making clicking sound while turning at very low speed(< 20mph)
2. There is rumbling sound in the rear every time I come to a stop for 2-3 times(Gas Sloshing???)

I'd called my salesman immed. but it was about 9pm and he asked me to bring it on Monday(12/11). I promptly did that but after wasting few hours they gave it back to me with a note "Vehicle is driving as expected at this time" eventhough salesman and mechanic both verbally agreed there is abnormal noise.

Can anyone help how to solve these peoblems?
What options do I have as I still owe some money to dealer though I've signed credit papers?
Is it worth compalining to Honda or under Lemon law?

caviller

Though I infer from Timothyadavis that this topic has gone around before, I'll throw in my 2 cents anyway. First, don't forget that Odyssey has child safety door locks, which are there to prevent unwanted door opening. Second, I suspect that injuries from sliding doors are probably both minor and rare, whether it's due to opening a manual door while moving or an automatic door not retracting or opening at unwanted times. If safety is a concern, I wouldn't fret the difference between them much. People can be trained to use either one properly:-)

rictom

My two cents to the inaccurate fuel gauge saga. When the gauge showed below 1/4 of a tank I believed that meant I had <5 gallons in the tank. I filled it up, it took 11.2, meaning I had 7.8 gal. A minor problem and actually not a bad one, telling me I had more gas than I thought instead of less. I decided to take it in, it's a 2000 lx with only 1100 miles on it, I wanted to see if the dealer would/could fix it, and see how I was treated, since this is where I'll be taking it for service.
They ran their tests and say everything looks correct. They suggested I wait until the low fuel light comes on, then fill up. It should take about 17 gallons according to them, and I should do this twice and see if it's 'accurate' both times. I'm not thrilled with filling up the van, I'd rather keep it around 1/2 a tank, but will do this to see if the gauge shapes up.
I believe the majority of the other posts I've read about the fuel gauge weren't fixed. If anyone did get their gauge fixed, please post with what was done.
Thanks

mike734

Keeping you tank half full is a good way to get water in your fuel. If you get stuck some very cold morning, you probably have water (ice) blocking your fuel line.

johnnyrf

Or if you are afraid to pull fuses (are you sure this will work??), go to the dealer. The tech will hook up a diagnostic device to the main computer and reset the light. It took all of about 2 minutes to complete out in the parking lot. DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE CAP!!!!! Dealer stated that he does a half dozen or so resets every week.

mschafer

(are you sure
this will work??)

Yes!

And pulling the fuse for 10 seconds is one heckuva a lot quicker than waiting on a service tech. At the dealers around here, it's at least 1/2 day.

mtsang

I had my dealer replaced the sender unit. My problem, though, is most of gauge not reading full when the tank is topped.

gleamc

Someone earlier had expressed their annoyance that the power sliding doors in the EX would not open unless the transmission was in Park and asked if anyone knew a way around it.
This too inconvenienced me. I found directions many posts ago in this form on how to modify the power door wiring to be able to open them in any gear as long as the van is NOT moving.
It may not be for everyone, but I was able to do the modification to our 2000 van without any problems and I'm happy with the results.

I recall several responses "chastising" the original requester for even thinking about such a modification. Some may still feel the same way. Before a safety debate is started, let me say the same as the original poster, the power sliding door control unit also has an input from the vehicle speed sensor, so even with this modification, the sliding doors can NOT be opened if the vehicle is in motion.

There is input from the gear position switch on each sliding door's control unit. The doors can be opened when this input is grounded, which normally only occurs when the transmission is in Park. A snip to a wire and it's attachment to ground causes the input to be permanently grounded, and thus making the door think the van is in park, regardless of the gear position.

How to:
Rather than taking off the door panel(s) to expose the sliding door control unit, you can tap into the wire at a more convenient location. For the left side door, remove the driver's side kick panel (where the hood release is) and you'll see two gray and one light blue connector all next to each other. In the middle connector, (I don't remember it's color but it is the one in the middle of the three) look for the wire that is black with a blue stripe (also has 2 silver bands on it). Cut it at a convenient location. Use electrical tape and wrap the end that comes from the gear position indicator. (This will not be used, although you may wish to test its "continuity to ground" when in Park to make sure you're using the right end.) I attached a second wire and soldered them together to add length then grounded the other side of the wire to the large bolt nearby, which holds everything in place and the sensor will be permanently grounded.

Similarly for the right side door, remove the front passenger kick panel (it contains a little door that opens to a bunch of fuses). At the bottom of the fuse box you'll see two connectors, one gray the other light blue. In the light blue connector look for the black wire with a blue stripe (also has 2 silver bands on it) and do the same thing as above.

Prior to the surgery, the doors could only be opened in Park. If the driver shifted into gear while a door remained open, the buzzer would sound. The doors can be closed, even in Drive.

After the surgery, the doors can be opened in any gear position, provided the vehicle is NOT moving. No buzzer sounds if you shift into Drive while the door is open. However, once you start moving, the buzzer goes off. As before, the doors can be closed at any time.
Good luck.

app1nag

I've been through this before here and realize the consequences of what I am asking. I was told by my dealer that there is a fuse that if pulled, will disable the ABS system. Does anyone have any knowledge if this statement is true? Ever since my wife slid in to an intersection on a snowy day, she has lost all faith in ABS. She does not really care that she slid STRAIGHT while going in to the intersection. Now whenever it snows she takes my '00 Civic Si (no ABS) and I take the Odyssey.

dmathews3

Not only did your wife slide into the intersection STRAIGHT she also did NOT slide as far as she would have if not for the ABS. ABS STOPS A VEHICLE FASTER, SAFER, AND IN LESS DISTANCE.

msibille

The only concern that I would have was if the ABS was not working properly. If it was, the braking distance that she had was essentially the shortest possible given the friction available on the roadway at the time. That makes the problem one of too much speed for the conditions, not the fact that the vehicle was equipped w/ ABS. The purpose of ABS is to keep you from locking the wheels (static friction is greater than dynamic in most cases) and to prevent you from losing control. If you're going to travel 200 ft to a stop, it's much better if you have some control to try to avoid obstacles, than to slide and/or spin uncontrollably. At least in the first case, you have an opportunity to avoid impact.

Now, don't get me wrong, I avoided ABS on my personal vehicle for a long time as I was convinced that the difference in initical cost and repairs was not justifiable in my mind as a substitute for driving for the conditions and properly using the brakes when one is surprised.
(I recently had an exciting experience while pulling my 17ft sailboat. It had rained, but was not raining at that instant. As I approached a stop sign, I felt my wheels skidding (actually noticed that the deceleration from braking was not proportional to effort on the pedal). However, because of the early application of the brakes (since I was towing and it was wet) and by not panicing and shoving ever harder on the pedal, I was able to come to a stop at the normal point. My wife and the backseat passenger were not aware of what had happened. When I said "Wow, that was a little scary." they had no idea what I was talking about. It was scary because the vehicle didn't respond as I expected, but it did respond within acceptable limits to avoid a collision. (This was a T-intersection, the other side of which was a 10ft chain link fence that would have not done my boat or body work any good.)

That's not to say that one can always sufficiently anticipate these things to avoid losing traction. One should not use ABS as a substitute for cautious operation and proper training, but it is an added edge to help when the conditions cannot be anticipated, and you need to maintain control to avoid, or minimize the effects of, a collision.

I would not disable the ABS on a vehicle that has it. (I don't have a lifeboat on my 17 sailboat, but I wouldn't pierce a hole in one that was mounted thereto.)

phil47

In the case of the EX (and 2001 LX), disabling the ABS will also disable the traction control system since they use the same sensors.

After driving in wet, snow and ice, I have come to really appreciate this system. Whether stopping or accelerating, this van is much more drivable and "predictable". I have experimented on numerous occasions by climbing a snow covered hill (or my driveway) with and without TCS. TCS wins hands down every time.

mike734

120 above is incorrect. ABS can increase stopping distance on snow and especially gravel. It does give you more control while stopping however. It is just one of the reasons the insurance industry is not giving a great a discount for cars with ABS as they use to.

sgarelick

I have a 2001 EX and many times when I turn the car off, the left blinker light starts blinking even when the blinker lever is in the off position. Is anybody else aware of this problem?

drew_

Testing 1...2...3...

cj575

Have been with this forum for two years and have not seen this problem before. I hope nobody else is aware of this problem as it seems you have a short in the circuit.

mschafer

This is not related, so it will probably be scratched or hidden.

This new software seems to be overly and unnecessarily cumbersome. In order to swap from one forum to another (i.e. Odyssey XXX to Odyssey Problems VII), one must log-out and then re-log-in. Cumbersome. to say the least.

Also, under the old software, it was an automatic log-in, if you allowed cookies. With the new software, it doesn't appear to have an auto log-in when you click to the Forums using a bookmark.

mschafer

The last three times that I've filled my 99EX with gasoline, the following has happened with precise consistency.

Shortly after the second time that I start the engine after the fill up, *both* the TCS *and* the Check Engine Lights will come on and stay on. If I stop and shut off the engine, the TCS light will be off when I next start the engine; but the check engine light remains on, no matter how long or how far I drive. If I stop the car, shut off the engine and reset the computer by pulling the proper fuse for 10+ seconds, both lights will be off and remain off until the next time that I fill the fuel tank, when the sequence starts again. FWIW, the fuel cap is always closed tight enough to hear it click 6-8 times upon closing. I have not taken it to a dealer with a diagnosis tester (although I might do it to satisfy my curiosity); because, as long as I can reset everything as I am now doing, I really don't care to have a dealer nick me for the reset.

Thoughts, ideas?

dmathews3

Did you ever stop to think that just maybe you have a real problem and that you are causing more damage by cheating the system. I would take it to the dealer next time as soon as possible before you cause real damage that they won't cover because you played mechanic.

mschafer

It's far and away past any warranty coverage. 73k.

As to cheating the system, if there was a real problem, the check engine and or TCS lights would come back on immediately after resetting them. However, my curiosity is up; so the next time it happens, I'll probably take it somewhere with a diagnostic tool.

coury

I was talking to a dealer yesterday regarding putting in a moonroof on an Odyssey EX. He said he had heard there could be a problem with the electrical (something or other) interferring with the automatic side door sliding mechanism.

Has anyone had a moonroof put into the EX and if so, any problems?

Also, what did the dealer charge for the moonroof?

Thanks in advance.
Rick

vbeauchamp

I have a new 20001 Honda Odyssey with 500 miles on it. I have been averaging between 7 - 10 mpg including highway miles. I have talked to Honda dealership to express my concerns. Dealer says that the since the engine light is not on there is no problem. One suggestion made was to use regular unleaded gas instead of the premium gas I have been using. The dealer says that it takes 7500 miles to break in the van and at that time, if the problem still exists, then they would look at this. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thank you.

carleton1

Looks like you are paying for more gasoline than is actually going into the van. Have you tried filling at another station? Or do you let the van idle for 20 minutes or more at a time before driving? I think it is more a problem of not getting a full gallon of gas for each gallon paid for.

Gischpel

Rick,

I think somewhere back the "plain" Odyssey discussion someone had a moon roof installed with great success. You'd have to do a search or post your question in that discussion to see if someone will remember. Or you can try e-mailing timothydavis. He is a long-time member and regular contributor to most Odyssey discussions.

vbeauchamp,

Checked my 2000 EX today -- 20 mpg in a mix of mostly local and some highway driving. You have to have a problem of some kind to get 7-10 mpg -- towing an unseen trailer, parking brake on, all uphill driving in the snow-- just kidding. I'd push your dealer harder!

Terry

lumanski

I've always been intrigued by aftermarket moonroofs (sunroofs). I'm intrigued why anyone would want to cut a hole in a perfectly fine (& watertight I must add) roof! Just something to think about. Even if the dealer gets out the cutting torch, that is still scary.

lumanski

I've heard not to get an Odyssey with the tan interior because it shows dirt more. Does anyone have any advise on this or the other (Fern & Quartz) colors?

charyan

i own a 2001 odyssey and have driven it 120 miles before my refuel gas light on the instrument panel lights up even if it's at the half tank mark (and yes, the fuel gauge appears to be moving/working). at first, it lit and flickered and then turned off. 5 minutes later, it came back on and stayed on until now. i've checked to turn the gas cap well beyond the indicated 3 clicks but the light remains lit. any suggestions...anyone??

thanks,
ryan

alexmish

This morning could not shift the lever from P. Had to manually override it. However, the problem went away when the interior got warmer - it was below freezing overnight.

Any ideas ? Did anyone seen this before ?

timothyadavis

It's possible; at least two have reported having a moon roof installed on the new Odysseys (the older, smaller Odysseys had a factory moon roof option). Be wary of a dealer who is wary. Just bypass them and get your own installer; you'll save money. Interview possible installers with your BS antenna active. Look for one who has done a 1999 or newer Odyssey before and call those references.

(We'll see if this goes through. I had tried the -- very sucky and non-intuitive spell checker the first time I tried to post here and it didn't post; I just got kicked back to the main topic list. Looks like bugs galore.)

pat84

I have tried 3 posts which did not register. Maybe I've been voted off the Edmund's Island. I did try using spellcheck. Perhaps, that's the problem. I thought spellcheck was just for engineers, anyway.

dlh2

Pat84
I are a enginer butt I don't kneed spelchek cause I can spel goot! :.)

kramw

This may sound stupid, but I have never had antiblock brakes on my previous cars, so I'm not sure if this is normal (I have '00 LX, without traction control). When stopping in the snow, and applying the brakes, the brake pedal shuddered quite noticeably, accompanied by a thumping noise. Is this how the antilock system should work? I appreciate any comments on this.

drew_

Don't worry, it's not a stupid question at all and I'm glad that you asked. The answer is yes, it's completely normal. The pulsing of the brake pedal is to let you know that the ABS is active. It is also partly caused by the brake fluid returning to the master cylinder. Remember that with ABS equipped vehicles, you do not pump the brake pedal. Simply step on it as hard as you can and if necessary, steer around the object that you're trying to avoid. Also remember that stopping distances on snow with ABS may be longer, so leave yourself copious amounts of room.

You may also want to watch these two relatively short video clips on ABS vs. non-ABS, and how to properly use ABS:
Click here for "Stomp, stay, steer"
Click here for the ABS education alliance's video

Hope this helps!
Drew
Edmunds.com Townhall co-host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories conferences

sermolin

My 1999 Odyssey is up for 30k service.
The manual states that for normal driving, all that needs to be done beyond oil change is air filter replacement and AC filter replacement.
I called Dublin Honda (Dublin, CA) and Mel Rapton Honda (Sacramento, CA). When I asked what is it they were going to do for 30k service, they gave me a list which included valve adjustment, transmission fluid replacement, coolant flush, brake flush, and distributor cap replacement. By the way, the list of services from both dealers was different. What shall I do? Stick with owner's manual or follow dealer's advice?
Sergey

robr2

I have used 2 different Honda dealers on service work. Both had their own schedule designed for what they feel should be done. Recently, one started using what looked to be a standard Honda sheet based on the mileage and standard vs severe service.

Here in MA, doing severe service from the manual is the norm and that is what I try to stick by. The dealer many times will come up with their own schedule. I believe Honda knows what is best for your vehicle.

app1nag

I have asked this question myself and have gotten a variety of answers from other Odyssey owners. Some say their ABS bangs and others say they hardly hear it. My ABS bangs and my wife (primary driver) cannot stand it. How can some bang and others not???

Neil

drew_

I may have an answer for you. I think it's because it depends on what surface you're braking on, from what speed, and how hard you are stepping on the brake pedal. I know that on my van if I stomp on the brake pedal really hard on a wet road, it will pulse heavily and I'll hear and feel the banging. However, on snow, I hear the ABS chatter, but there is significantly less lurching. BTW, ABS does work in reverse. I know because I've tried it.

FYI, ABS on more expensive luxury vehicles can be a lot more refined. For example, Mercedes-Benz's ABS hardly has any brake pedal vibration. The noise is still there, but that's also so you know that you're braking at the limit of adhesion.

Drew
Edmunds.com Townhall co-host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories conferences

2k1odyssey

To Carmedia:
You did not post a reply to #54. Hope you solved your sliding door problems.

dotun1

I have 2000 EX and I have been getting poor mileage too. Just to be sure I have been logging gas usage for two months now. The best I get in the city is 13 mpg and 15 mpg on the highway. When I asked my dealer he simply said this was "normal" since the engine was "big"

pat84

I would be very sceptical of a dealer who told me that he was going to "adjust my valves and replace the distributor cap". The valves are hydraulic and require no adjustment. I am not sure there is a "distrubutor cap" in the traditional sense. It is an all electronic ignition system. I do not see a distributor. The only maintenance on it would be to replace the plugs at 100K miles. My dealer has a much outdated list of what services used to be performed at various service intervals. It also has items on it that do not apply to vehicles made with electronic ignitions. My dealer does rotate my tires at 30K.

gasburner

We have a 2001 Odd EX with 750 miles on it. We've getting about 14 mpg for city driving. This seems pretty low. I would hope it would improve as the engine gets more broken-in. I'm looking for some feedback. What kind of mileage has been typical for the first 1000 miles. Has the mileage improved over time?

mojo66

This new software has some bugs, eh?

rvsnv

I have a 2000 LX. Driving during the recent heavy rains in the NorthEast, I was running the fan at high with A/C on for defogging. The fan was NOT in circulate but was bringing in air from outside. It did a rather BAD job of clearing the windshield. Also there was a steady mildew odor coming even though the A/C was on. In my 97 Accord the mildew smell comes only when the A/C is switched off. How can I tell if the A/C is working or not?

ody2112

I have never gotten less than about 16 mpg in the city, I have gotten as much as 28 with all highway driving. I have a 2000 LX. I don't know what mileage per gallon the 2001 Odd's are advertised to get (2000 was advertised as 17/25) but I would suspect that your dealer is screwing you over when he says it is normal because it has a big engine.

kramw

Drew,
Thanks for the response. My wife (and I) will feel better now. It was a concern, considering we are traveling to Chicago for the holidays. I guess it will take some getting used to on our part.

drew_

Glad to be of assistance. Remember that ABS does necessarily help you to stop any faster on snow/ice, so keep it slow and leave more room ahead of you. Again, don't be intimidated by the noises and the pedal pulsing and apply firm and continuous pressure - no pumping of the pedal - until you stop. Good luck navigating through Chicago when the white stuff starts falling from the sky! :-) I hope you have a set of good winter tires.

Drew
Edmunds.com Townhall co-host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories conferences