Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

jacklew

Have cracked rear spoiler also. Dealer needed to inspect and then special ordered one. However I had talked to the dealer yesterday regarding the battery which had to be jumped 3 times during the last month. Ran it at night for 30 miles, left overnight, wife took in for them to see spoiler. She stopped and started the engine twice while in line. It didn't start the third time. They diagnosed the charging system, found it was good, and replaced the battery.
Jack

oyee

I have some rattling noise coming from the rear of the van when I drive over small sharp bumps. When I drive over bigger bumps the rattling does not happen. I read some post about side panels, can someone please help. My van is 01 EX Odyssey.

Thanks

mschafer

As you know, this set of lights has been coming on in my 99EX w/77k miles over the past 3-4 weeks; and, since the engine was running fine, but much to the concern of at least one other poster, I was resetting the lights and continuing to drive. I finally took it to my local Goodyear Tire Service Center, and they checked out the error codes on their computer.

The codes pointed to a problem with the EGR valve, which they cleaned; but could not get the codes to clear. They wanted to replace the EGR valve, but the local Honda and Accura stores did not have one in stock. Price from the Honda store was $166 and price from Acura was $191, both uninstalled. FWIW, Trevor (http://honda-accessories.com/) sells it for $119.

I've been driving it since the EGR cleanout without replacing the part; and it's been running A-OK with no lights coming on. If/when it becomes necessary to replace the valve, you can bet who is going to get the parts sale. *:o))

masshoosier

It could also be your license plate holder banging against the tailgate. Affix a couple of pieces of small hard styrofoam to the back of the holder and it should remedy it if this is the case. Many other objects can be affixed also as long as they are shock absorbant and do not react with the clear-coat.

2k1odyssey

To Auburn63 - Post #296
Thanks for your honest opinion. In future, don't hold back, please do debate. So long as
you don't infer right from wrong (or truth from false) without some extra research. Before
I go on, let me confirm that I am in possession of three manuals with supplements &
addendums direct from the factory. I don't know if you have the same books, but it appears
that contents may not be identical.

If you work for a dealership, then you know exactly what TSBs or 'bulletins' are. Described
as "routines recommended by the manufacturer to be followed by service personnel towards
finding an obvious solution to a recurring problem."
(Hope the US advisory is the same as the Canadian one).

Your note was read by my service Manager too. Some information is provided for your perusal.

[Simply put, structural flexing should not cause loss of door switch contact. A mis-aligned
door is more the reason, though, aggravated by flexing. To extrapolate, please read on.]

- Yes, the body will flex. However, if you locate the tubular foundation structure the cabin
is built upon, the pillars are arranged such that flexing between tubulars (2) and (3) is
virtually eliminated. The cabin from dash area (front footwell) to just behind second row
seats is located withing this area. Calculations reveal that by design, structural twisting
(CTT factor) at centre of the long axis of the vehicle at a point midway across its cross-
sectional area is limited to 98% or approx eight degrees. You will see this value repeated again.
You yourself can do the torsion (twist) test, within specifications, and will see, at max twist,
sliding/front door re-positioning of no more than 2/3 degrees on a new vehicle. These values
are also used to compute safe vehicle height and wheel shock travel.

- Unless switch plungers are stuck, junction switches do not 'loose' contact. Ideally, the
plunger should make full surface contact with the receiver plate. Sixty percent of plunger
travel is for this purpose. The diameter of plunger and receiver plate and spacing between
points is based on permissible door movement caused by door adjustment or roller wear. Pivoted
at the switch, a closed door will have to be raised or lowered approx 8 degrees from horizontal
before reaching minimum plunger contact. By this time some plungers will be fully extended
and not contacting their striker plates. They will not extend in such a way so as to contact
a different strike plate.

All door contacts have plunger stops, fully extended. The bulletin/s you mention were issued
only as a possible cause of switch malfunction. Meaning, the tech was to check if a wire became
brittle and if the strap was preventing that particular wire from moving enough to allow
the plunger to fully extend. That was only if the tech noticed a plunger not fully extended, or
tended to stick in its shaft. It was not issued as a must if plunger moved freely, and
dealerships here don't tamper with the switch at all.

Yes, removing the strap would allow all the wires to move independently. However, it is poor
electrical practice to leave wires unstrapped, even if continues to be done. No recall was
issued for every dealership to remove the strap on every vehicle that had door problems. A
tech was to follow certain regular time saving procedures before dis-assembling the
switch from the door.

You seem to have a manual that is not available this side of the border. When it comes to
CPUs and PCMs, I am not going to debate your knowledge. I also don't know what you understand
by 'properly relearn" the doors. What you describe, word-for-word is not printed in any of
our available books. However, a closely related action is mentioned in the owner's manual
and is to be used to synchronize doors if, for some reason, power to them was disconnected
during motion. Note that when you put the fuse back (that you removed), in essence you caused
the CPU to run a 'static relearn'. All the CPU did was recall the last stored revolution
count and ran its pre-program from there. Also, you don't make reference to it, but you should
close/open doors manually with master swich 'on'. Specifically mentioned is that doors can
be synchronized (and relearn done) only with doors closed together. Cannot be performed if
one is open.

Any other door malfunction might/will store a DTC. Also note that the sliding doors have a 'self-
diagnostic funtion' and a 'fail safe' function. Not mentioned in any book is that any/all
fail safe functions are 'dynamic functions'. Following a customer's complaint, relevant electrical
input tests are to be carried out and DTCs extracted and corrected. Only up to five DTCs can be
extracted by self-diagnosis. OBDII/Honda scan tool can extract/list all present. You can remove
DTCs from memory. However, the doors will not operate automatically if all the problems
are not repaired and DTCs cleared (meaning CPU is in 'fail-safe' mode for those functions.)

My post prepares folks for what to realistically expect when approaching a service department
with door problems. I am sure a lot of people would have benefitted if you presented your
post two years ago. Unfortunately, your solution may not fix all the problems encountered.
If it did, none of us should be seeing door problems. I am using my 01' Ody as a guinea pig
to create and diagnose problems. To date I have been able to emulate sixteen subroutine
malfunctions, a third of which are purely CPU gimmics. You have provided information two years
after such problems started, and that too only to challenge what I wrote. It does not bother me;
someone else could have benefitted from your knowledge at the time.

I am glad that you have had success in fixing door problems the way you do and have been doing
so since day one. I won't say what you see in the vehicles you repair are not fact. But in
my view, the amount of flexing you describe also signifies the door has enough freeplay to
undergo vibration stress and in the fifty odd '99 vehicles I have checked, that simply is not
the case. If it was, I for one, will be raising hell with the manufacturer.

My postings are not for experts in the business who have solutions. They are for folks who
encounter different and varied problems associated with their vehicles. I present them in
their design aspects. Thus, since even though repairs cannot be carried out by themselves,
they are more prepared to approach a dealership with some knowledge, since he too is looking
at the same set of repair books. I am sorry you feel some of my information is not true.
That could be so based on what you read, do and what you know. I hope some of the above would
have ironed out my "untruths" because they are from a design perspective, from what I know and do,
and from what

h20guy

WOW!!!

auburn63

Wow, well once again not all that you have said is true, but it is a hell of alot of book knowledge.I work in NJ at a dealer and have access to all kinds of info that is not in your books, but is printed up by tech line and given out to techs.The tech line summaries, the service acknowledgments, the ISIS system, the Honda net along with TSB's and service news is where I get my info and there is some about Odysseys in almost every one of those areas. I have re- learned doors with one open and one closed and both open, so I know it does work. As for body flexing and hitting bumps most people can look at the contact plates and see where there junction switches are matching up by left over burn (for lack of a better discription)marks.However test yours by putting a very slight anount of greese on them and closing the door and then open and check.Unless they have been adjusted you will see on some that they come in contact close to the edges so in the real world it doesn't have to travel as far as they say because they are rarely where they ideally should be except in 2001 they seem to be better.
As for pulling the codes on the doors, I have never been told to use the OBD scan tool and don't think you can. It has a blinking code that is read at the dash by using the master switch on/off and the problem doors switch to access it.
As for posting to challenge what you write, I don't and would not do that.I have been coming here (Edmunds) for about a year on a daily basis trying to help and have kept from disputing what you say in an attempt to not confuse anyone. I just tried to give advice from the field rather than from a book, but hey thats ok because it doesn't bother me either. My customers vans are door problem free and with any luck they will stay that way.What works and sounds great on paper isn't always the way things are.Otherwise we wouldn't even be having this discussion because I am sure these problems aren't what they wanted when they designed it.Anyhow no big deal, have a good one..

phil47

...what other topic can boast this level of online diagnostic help...

Stay with us guys and don't beat each other up, your efforts are always welcome (at least by me).

drew_

is always welcome! I, for one, have enjoyed the detailed technical posts immensely and I don't even own an Odyssey! :-)

Onwards and upwards guys!

Drew
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

mschafer

are great, as long as they are accurate. The trick, as we say here in the South, is to be able to sort the fly "stuff" out of the pepper. And that can be hard to do when a message is obfuscated with so much excess verbiage and arrogant condescension. But don't stop, some of us are pretty good fly "stuff" sorter outers. *:o))

odyessy2001

Dear Friends,

I just purchased a 2001 Odyssey (a mere 181 miles on it so far.) I took it to be checked and they said the steering wheel was o., however, it is crooked laterally.

The left side of the wheel is one inch farther away than the right side. Thus my right arm is closer to me, left arm farther away.

Is this normal? It feels so strange when driving.

Thanks in advance for your replies.

phil47

but that seems odd. Did you measure from the seat or the dash? I'm not sure if the dash is supposed to be skewed or not, but it seems logical that the seat and the steering wheel should be parallel...

dlh2

I agree with phil47 and Drew in that we are lucky to have such knowledageble folks like 2k1odyssey and auburn63 willing to share their expertise with us on this forum. To auburn63--Have you had any feedback from Odyssey owners who have had a "soundproofing" undercoating such as Ziebart applied in an attempt to lessen road noise?

dmathews3

I had the Ziebart sounddeading done to my new Odyssey and it doesn't work. The noise on concrete roads is loud enough that you can't tell if its a help or not. Don't waste your money. What the put on is about an 1/8 of an inch thick at the most and thats being generous. Maybe if it was a 1/2 inch thick than it would work.

tb55

I recently bought a '98 Odyssey. During the test drive there didn't seem to be any squeaks or any other interior noises. But after driving for several hundred miles, a squeaking noise is coming from the rear of the van whenever I make sharp turns, drive over uneven surfaces and pull into my driveway - all at a slow rate of speed. It sounds like it's coming from the rear door, but I can't be certain. Any ideas as to what it is? What can eliminate squeaks?

ktong

Everything was done under warranty ('98 Odyssey had less then 5000 miles) back in 1998. No problems since, but it was a pain to go to dealer 4 times for the fuel gauge (sender unit replaced and loose ground wire), check engine light (transmission & pcm replaced).

BTW, I helped my parents buy an '01 SS EX w/NAV Odyssey which we are picking up on Saturday (1/13/01). It arrived at the dealer on 1/9/01. Their Odyssey was produced on 12/20/00. I hope it doesn't have the holiday blues (i.e. where the factory workers are not as careful in assembling the van because of the distraction in thinking about/planning for the upcoming holidays).

ktong

Is it a squeak or rattle? If squeak, try lubricating the latches and such.

My '98 odyssey lx had an annoying rattle/buzz in front that comes during certain maneuvers and sometimes it doesn't. After year, it became a pain and I started investigating. I finally found it. It was the electrical wire in the roof that connected to the front ceiling courtesy light. The wiring was right above the location where the optional map light is supposed to be. Had the dealer pop down the lining and tape the wires so they aren't loose. End of rattle.

phil47

I had an asphalt type undercoat done on my 2001 EX. I asked for it to be applied extra thick (more like a 1/4 inch) in areas like the 3rd seat well and spare tire well and wherever the floor pan seemed to be the only thing between the cabin and the road. Both my wife and I noticed that the cabin noise was reduced, particularly the higher frequency noise (any noise was more muted and low frequency), although the noise wasn't particularly bad to begin with.

I didn't pay for it (service dept had it done due to some "inconvenience" they had put me through), but I know it costs around $125 CAD ($75 USD). I probably would have paid for it myself both for the noise reduction and corrosion protection (they use salt on the roads here, and it is a real pain to rinse the bottom of the Ody as the ground clearance is so limited).

ruggb

The Ody has a heavy spring on the gas pedal. This creates another problem I would like to solve. As I slowly push on the pedal it sticks causing a jerky acceleration. Dealer did something (so they say) but no help. I believe it to be in the piece where the spring is.
Anybody have a solution. I think a lighter spring would help both problems.

auburn63

Glad to be of some enjoyment to yall but I would rather stick to trying to fix cars. They don't talk back .......

It seems that cars with undercouting on them are a bit quieter than those with none but I don't have a lot of know on that subject.

If it is a rattle then it may be from the rear doors but would be hard to say online with not being there. But if you think it may be the doors then there is a service bulletin than can be done if verified.

Is the gas pedal stick problem mostly in the morning or after sitting for a while. Or does it happen all the time?

fencepost

Hello! We just drove home our 01 LX SS today and I have a small concern. The shift lock release has been opened, the cover all the way off. I read in the manual that this should only be done if the van will not come out of Park on it's own, and if that is the case, there is something wrong with the van. I have emailed the dealer to tell him this (I showed him the dislodged cover before we drove it home and he thought it was a maintenance reset button, I since read the manual)and ask him for his opinion on how it became dislodged. Is this something I should worry about?

Thanks.

mitchelled

I have a 2001 EX NV and we just has Crossbars put on it and now hear a loud wind noise when we reach 40mph. Called the dealer and they suggested moving the bars back a little (helpful of them).

Has anyone bothered trying to adjust the crossbar position to reduce this noise? If so.... any success? I'd love to hear if you've had success....

My mail is mitchelled@aol.com

Thanks

johnnyrf

I have a simple solution for the wind noise problem that works for me:

Turn up the music loud!

fultont

I have a question that I have not seen addressed in any post about warranty coverage. I have a '01 EX on order for this month. I expect to start towing a trailer sometime in the distant future so I am not planning on getting the transmission cooler until then. My understanding of what is covered under warranty is only accessories that are installed by the dealer at purchase will only be covered, which is fine as I doubt I would have much trouble with the actual transmission cooler. But by adding the cooler at a later date will that give Honda an "out" if I have transmission problems after the cooler is installed? I.e. "your problem is because of the transmission cooler that was not installed by the dealer when you bought the van, so you get to buy your new transmission."

Any ideas/thoughts on this?

pat84

I had the dealer install my transmission oil cooler. I know it is covered by my warranty. The $200 I paid to have it done by my dealer is cheap for the piece of mind, relative to doing it myself. If you are going to put one on yourself, you may want to look at one that has more cooling than the relatively small Honda one. I don't tow anything but the tranny cooler is for driving a fully loaded van in the summer with A/C on.

gfc4us

Consumer Reports rated 2000 Ody as average and 1999 Ody as below average. Does that mean that 1999 Ody will be on Used Car Avoid List in the April Auto issue?

dmathews3

Still better then the Le Car you own.

2k1odyssey

To Auburn63 - Post #308
To Mschafer - Post #311

Thank you.

Poking fun at me.."obfuscated".."verbiage".."arrogant condescension"..that is okay. Hell of
a lot of 'book knowledge'. Starts at the drawing board, though, and I wonder if any of you
have seen that.

Yes, doors have a blinking scan. But, with a scanner...you think!! It does not matter. This
forum is not for personal bashing (though it tends to get that way), not for challenging or
hurting anyone's feelings. And, of course, it is a known fact (don't run me down for that too)
technical people like the least reading. There would be nothing in the field if there was
nothing on the books first. How did you get to the field without the book, or leaflet, or TSB?
That too, Sir, is from 'a book'. You say I am arrogant. Not in the least. However, you
(Auburn63) would be one great field person I would like to meet, one who has done a trial-and-
error diagnostic, and has now posted a permanent solution, registered with Honda. That I
appreciate very much, and I would love to pick you brains for more redesign knowledge.
Mine is not all book knowledge, but includes hands-on, study, research and redesign. Before your
vehicle is built, it is designed on book (or computer) and every conceivable number or value is
determined before hand. This is something I value because my paramount code of engineering ethics
is to put a safe vehicle on the road.

I am also not going to dispute what you say. I only hope that your solutions have been posted
on the Honda web, the ISIS, the MEHIS, the AHIS and other available sources of knowledge. There is one
difference. Honda has not yet changed any of their written diagnostics to replicate your solutions.

In future, when you see something from me you don't feel is about right, lets discuss it. That's
you don't feel self-righteous enough not to want to learn or share your knowledge.

On another note that might be of interest. I was recently at an gathering to promote some
of the newer models in the Middle Eastern market. Visited a private garage which possesses a $75k
piece of diagnostic marvel that does everything without human contact. The vehicle sits on dynamic
rollers and a forty minute run does everything. You might like that piece of technology.

Mschafer. Verbiage - to say the least.

Take care and have a good one too.

auburn63

1. I checked the factory manual today and there was no mention of using the OBD or Honda PGMFI checker to acess codes for the doors. Only the one that I had stated using the power door switch buttons and watching the light.

2.A few post back you had told a poster(269)that in order to repair a frozen gas pedal/throttle plate you needed to drill some holes in the intake. The actual repair is to drill some holes in the bottom of the resonator chamber under the air box.

Those plus a few other comments were what I was talking about.If they were mistakes then hey we all make them I have made a few in my postings along the way but I don't think I was being rude or personaly attacking you.As for the doors most of my findings and repairs for them take less than 2 hours and seem to be working for the long term.As for them being in print , I learned most of them at the Honda training school and have the info from job aids that the brainiacs made up. Oh yeah and oh yes I need them(rocket scientist book worms) just as much as they rely on feedback from us. It is a team effort.

c8user

To Mitchelled

Noticed the same noise on my 00 Ody LX. I moved the front cross bar back approx 12". The noise didn't go away, but was much less noticeable.

2k1odyssey

To Auburn63 - Post #330
Thanks for your message. I hope you had a good weekend.

I understand what you are relating. I was not trying to bash you, what you were saying or doing. I was hoping you would read between the lines. I know that you have to rely on manuals and material sent down by the 'brainies'. I don't have to. I sometimes also don't realise that my access is totally different from yours. While you may be comfortable with a repair 'within parameters', I have to evaluate problems before they occur and de-bug the what-ifs when something works but has not been repaired following prescribed procedure. Design teams provide parameters. Outside of that, responsibility can be contended if/when something goes wrong, being unaware of the situation. Eg. grounding the circuit permitting use of sliders when not in 'P'. Why was it put in and what might it effect?

I do agree that the manual and/or other directives don't mention OBD/Honda Scan tool when referring to the doors (or a couple of other items like heat generated with TCS) . All I am saying is, every conceivable piece of information is stored and with various pieces of equipment, what can be extracted and done seems like magic.

It is okay to call my mistakes, but maybe, add a word or two if you feel folks need better direction.

You are also very correct about holes being made at bottom of resonator to fix throttle plate freezeup. I just chose to inform the reader that 'holes will be made in the intake', though "intake" used very loosly. It was a choice of words to help remove confusion and leave the technicality/terms to folks like yourself. If the reader was a DIYer I am sure he would have read up more on the subject before
attempting anything. (Don't we have a 'resonator' not common to the intake?) However, it was a recall and he would be going to his dealer. That's all it was.
I am sorry that you felt the note was technically inadequate.

Yes, teamwork is the way to go and with folks like yourself we hope that the minor problems we have seen with the redesigned Odyssey are eliminated and faith returned to Honda automotive products. Remember, I will not provide answers. A service department/garage is expected to do that. I only provide comments and/or suggestions. This is why we have this forum. And comments/suggestions can be debated.

Take care and good luck.

peiferlt

To 2k1odyssey - Post 276

Thanks for the help with door rattles. Your hunch is right. My van is now back at the dealers for more door rattles in the same door they fixed' last week. The original rattle seems gone but a new one has taken its place. Not as loud and not as annoying but coming from the same door (drive side sliding door) as before.

I am not happy to learn that the manufacture does not recommend taking the door off the vehicle. My service rep seemed very proud that they did it 5 times for me in order to find the rattle.

Originally they were going to order (because they didn't have it in stock) a new door latch but then said they took the door off for the fifth time and found the loose plastic tab that was causing the rattle. My assumption is they didn't put in a new latch because they didn't have one.

When I went back today with the same door rattle problem and suggested they replace the latch they didn't do before, the service rep said it was replaced last time. I looked at the service work order and it makes no mention of a replacement door latch so I don't believe it was replaced. I'll wait to see what they find this time. I also plan to talk to the service manager in hopes of getting a clear answer.

Regarding the gas gauge. You asked about mileage, its 4500 miles and I consider the vehicle 'broken in' - it has had its first oil change. I've checked the mileage more closely and seem to be getting 19.5 MPG on pure freeway driving. That's disappointing as my previous 2 Dodge Caravans got 22-24MPG on the same route. I haven't brought the gas gauge issue up with the dealer yet, pending resolution of the door rattle. I may just get used to it or I may mention it next time.

Any further advise would be appreciated on how to get the dealer to do the right thing with the door.

bjberg

Thanks to the reponses to my previous post on check engine light problem.

I now have another issue with my '01 LX with 5500 miles on it; when I drive a slow speeds (10 to 30 mph) and hit small, sharp bumps, I hear a rattle noise in the driver side sliding door (sometimes the passenger side door as well). I know there have been many posts about door rattle but I seem to recall they were from EX owners. Has anyone experienced the rattles with the LX? If so, do you get the problem resolved? If yes, how? I appreciate your responses.

javahound

I took my Ody for a short trip yesterday and tried to listen for all of the things I have read on here. The only thing so far is the "clicking" noise in the steering column, but I am not sure if I have seen anyone post the solution to the problem? Other than that, I am happy with the vehicle and hope to drive it for a very long time...

Any thoughts?

sjencso

to mitchelled, post #323

We picked up our 2K1 EX on January 5th. When we test drove the van, the crossbars had not been installed. On the drive home we noticed a loud noise when we hit 40 mph, the sound was not hidden when we turned the radio up either ;-)

I tried changing the positions of the crossbars that night but it didn't make a difference. I finally took the crossbars off just to prove to myself that it was the crossbars that was causing the noise. There was no noise when the crossbars were off.

I took the van back to the dealer and explained what the noise and what I had done (changed position, took them off). The dealer was very good, they gave me another set of crossbars, no questions asked, and the loud noise went away.

There is still a small amount of additional noise due to the crossbars but I consider the level with the new set to be acceptable.

kelsen

It seems to me that there was someone posting here who had some association with the Honda dealership in Auburn; perhaps this was just in my head, as Auburn63 posts here - but you're not around this neck of the woods, are you,63?

The reason I ask is that I live in Montgomery, and the dealer here from whom I purchased my Odyssey wants an absurd amount of money for each maintenance service. Each periodic service includes a large number of 'inspections'. An example or two: 7500 miles, oil change, tire rotation and a plethora of inspections - $89.95 + tax. 15000 miles, oil change, tire rotation, lubricate doors, and a bunch of inspections - $139.95 + tax. It only gets worse.

On another note, I hope I didn't offend Timothy Davis in my previous posting; it was entirely tongue-in-cheek.

Finally, can anyone point me to a 'final' authority on the issue of fluids other than Honda fluids with respect to Honda's warranty?

Thanks.

Dave Kelsen.
Error: Keyboard not attached. Press F1 to continue.

mdb011263

I have a 2001 Odyssey, which I really do love. However, I had my first and I hope last problem with it recently. When I tried to start the van, the battery was totally dead. I have less than 2000 miles on it and can think of no reason why the battery was drained of power.
Has anyone heard of this? Or can anyone think what could have drained the power? THe lights were off, the doors were shut... I did hear a slight clicking noise in the dash close to the door controls, but no one (dealer or repair shop) seems to have answer as to why this could happen.
It is in the shop now, getting a good checking out... But the battery doesn't drain of power for no reason.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

2k1odyssey

To Peiferlt Post #333

You are most welcome to our assistance.

Depending upon the problem, getting the dealer to do the right thing is a little tricky. Time/effort he is willing to spend is another issue.

Please note a few items and discuss them with the Service Manager.

1. Did the mechanic actually take the door off five times or did he only take off the plastic
panel five times? You know it is a lot of work/worry taking off a door & other ways of diagnosis.

2. Please explain again what you describe as a "rattle". Is it a tapping sound or a lift/drop sound. A plastic tab won't cause a rattle, usually should be something bigger/heavier.

3. Why were they originally going to order the door latch? Was it causing the rattle?

4. I don't believe they changed the latch. It would show up on your maintenance record.
Confirm this with the Manager.

5. Every time you take your vehicle in to do anything, whether paid for or not, get a printout of all the work that was done. For your records, you can even request it at this time.

6. If you can explain the noise, which could be deemed as coming from the panel, then a new panel
is in order. Some strip insulation around frame holes where tabs sit will also help.

7. However, before (6) get the dealer to remove all the door interior trim and you test drive the
vehicle along with the Manager to check for the noise. Take the matter from there. All future
rattles should be checked this way - more representative of driving conditions.

Regarding gas mileage, yes, your engine should be broken in. However, per my previous note,
if you notice you are constantly filling up only two-thirds tank, irrespective of gauge reading,
then 19.5 mpg is just about right. You got a problem with your gauge. Also note that even on flat surface, anything over 65mph will generate more fuel consumption. Based on current miles vs consumption, and if you have gas pumps on a known route, you could push your vehicle the rest of the 1/3 probable available gas and see how far you can go. At the outset your dealer can change the fuel sending unit and you can see what happens then. I had the gauge problem with my '99. But, touch wood, my '01 works just perfect, even the lamp comes on only with 1/8 tank and I fill close to 17 gallons.

I will be glad to respond to all your queries. Check out the above with your dealer.
Post your results when convenient. Take care.

georgy

Help!!! I bought an '01 EX two weeks ago and noticed that it pulled to the right. Last Monday I took it in. After a test drive they claimed to find nothing wrong but they adjusted the tire pressure and rotated the tires anyway. The technician took it for a second test and returned saying that he felt nothing wrong. Well, it still pulls, noticably, to the right. It has to go back in again. I've noticed that I am not alone with this problem. I do not have a lot of time to spend fighting with the dealer. Will someone please post a list of things that I can print off and take to the dealer with me. Going in to them armed with this list should save me time, and help me to get them to understand that there is a real problem and a major safety issue.

mschafer

Have your dealer look up Honda's Service Bulletin on this exact problem. It's # 00-067, dated October 10, 2000.

phil47

Just make sure the "pull to the right" is abnormal. My 2001 EX pulls to the right when I'm in the right lane, as does my 2001 Pathfinder LE and as did my 92 Jeep Cherokee. They do it because of the crown of the road. The pull is normal in my case because it is not "excessive" (ie. if I let go of the wheel for a three or four seconds, I'm not hurtling into the shoulder or parked cars, and I'm not using much force to countersteer). If I'm in the center lane, there is no pull and when in the left lane the van pulls slightly left.

I only say this because you will likely be asked this anyways.

georgy

Thank you both for your help, and especially for the service bulletin number. It is definitely a pull to the right. If I'm not constantly exerting a counter pressure the van will run off the road. In the centre lane on a five lane (one way) highway its still pulling. This is the only real problem I have with the vehicle. Wellll... this and the lousy sound system. Thanks again for the SB number.

phil47

don't get me started. If this is "improved" over the 99/00, I don't want to hear the old one...

drew_

In my humble opinion, the MY1999 to 2000's was err...adequate, to put it nicely :-)


Drew
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hope7

I had my Odyssey declared a lemon in August 2000.
There were numerous items wrong (engine light, brakes etc)...but the item that got my van declared a lemon was the sliding door problem. The van was declared unsafe and could cause physical harm or even death. The door problem on the Odyssey can not be fixed. I know of another person who's Odyssey was declared a lemon after mine (these were 1999 EX models) and I know of another individual who is beginning the process. Having the lemon law declared cost me no money and very little time. As much $$$ the Odyssey costs, we should not put up with being sold a piece of junk. You can get information on the lemon law from the BBB Autoline (Better Business Bureau). I have owned a total of 7 Hondas and never had a problem with a single one until the Odyssey. You don't have to put up with it. Honda threw together the van just to get into the minivan market. You the owners are paying the price.

rschrag

To mdb011263 post #337:

Spooky. Ours is a 2000 Ody LX, but we experienced a strikingly similar problem just this week - clicking noise in the dash, absolutely NO response when the key was turned. We had it towed to the dealer, where of course it started right up. A load test on the battery indicated that it was just fine. Our keyless remote does not have an ignition kill function, but they checked that system out anyway. Electrical connections tested out OK too. The dealer returned it to us today without doing anything else, so we'll see if it happens again. If you learn any more, please let me know.

drew_

Did you try out the other keys that you were given? It may be that the key or the engine immobiliser is malfunctioning, hence the key is not being recognised and the vehicle is not allowed to start.

Good luck!

Drew
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rschrag

Drew (re post #347): Thanks for the heads up - I'll suggest that to my wife if it happens again. Is it likely that a malfunction of the immobilizer system would be an intermittent problem? (The same key that wouldn't start the van in our garage started it when it got to the dealer.) Does the immobilizer system on the Odyssey disable the starter or just the fuel delivery? (In our garage, she got NO reponse from turning the key - no starter, nothing.) Is there anything in the ECM that might have been the clicking noise she heard before trying the ignition?

phil47

When I had the PCM replaced on my 2001 EX, they forgot to recode the key. The result was the engine would turn over but not start (and the green immobilizer key light would glow).

Your problem is very similar to one I had. I would hear that sound just before my engine would stall and the electronics went dead on the van. It would only happen for a split second (sometimes the engine wouldn't stall), and then everything was alright. While it was happening, the gauges and dash lights would flicker and that clicking relay sound would occur. The problem was traced to the PCM (engine computer) which was faulty. It was replaced and the van has been flawless since.

newodyowner

I noticed that there was a previous post regarding this problem.

I just bought a new Honday Odyssey 2001 EX (about 3 weeks ago). I just started noticing a rattling noise coming from the area of the driver side sliding door.

I brought it in for service today, and sure enough the sound was coming from the door (they said). The said that both sliding doors were "out of alignment" and had to be re-alligned. The noise seems to have gone, but I am concerned that this problem will re-occur. The service rep said maybe it would, and maybe it wouldn't - very reassuring.

Anyone else have any insight to this problem?

Also, I was wondering what other Odyssey owners thought of the shocks on the car. I found the ride to be a bit more jostling than I would expect on a brand new car. Maybe I was expecting too much?