02 Windstar from brake question
The 2 bolts to release the front brake calipers are larger than 9/16 but smaller than 5/8
so i thought they were metric,
but they are larger than 14mm and smaller than 15mm
anyone else have this problem or know what size they are suppose to be?
checking online i fond no other people with similar problems
so it makes me think maybe they are 9/16 and mine are rounded a bit or somehting?
so i thought they were metric,
but they are larger than 14mm and smaller than 15mm
anyone else have this problem or know what size they are suppose to be?
checking online i fond no other people with similar problems
so it makes me think maybe they are 9/16 and mine are rounded a bit or somehting?
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Supposedly, it's the rubber bellows inside the booster making the noise. But, since we're on our third replacement so far, I'm beginning to wonder. What else could be causing this noise? If it is coming from the booster, is there anything else that could be causing the booster to make that noise?
It's worse when the weather is warm and when the problem really gets bad, the brake pedal gets hard to press, as if there is a lot of resistance.
Thanks.
I have a similar problem with my 2002 Ford Windstar with 77,000 miles on it. I have had an annoying brake pedal noise inside the vehicle since approximately 50,000 miles and after having a front brake job. As the brake pedal is depressed, a squishy and creaky noise is heard - it is more pronounced when the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature. While under extended warranty to 75,000 miles, the problem was addressed but not fixed by a Ford dealership on four different occasions - two times the brake booster was replaced, two times the brake pedal assembly was lubricated. The Ford dealer and Ford Customer Service now claim this is an inherent design problem and cannot be fixed. I have my doubts that it cannot be fixed. Both the dealer and Customer Service refuse to allow a factory field engineer to examine the vehicle. I am continuing to search for a solution. I will keep you informed if I have any success. I also would appreciate any input from you or any other subscribers on how to resolve the problem.
drc2315
The Windstar certainly is no Lincoln, but since they are both Ford products, maybe there's a connection.
Don't know if you will see this message, but we have finally fixed this problem. Turns out it was the master cylider. The first dealer we took it to replaced the brake booster three times and wouldn't even listen to me when I suggested that he check the master cylinder. He ended up telling me that he's done all he can do and that's just the way it is.
Went to another dealer and they diagnosed it as the master cylider. Replaced that and the problem is gone!
I think the total repair cost at this shop is just under $200, but with our ESP warrenty it was $50. Bugs me that I had to pay a 2nd deductible for the same problme, but at least it's fixed now.
Hope that helps
Firestone Price: $600 plus.
With a little help from Oreily's and Auto Zone plus my own elbow grease about $100.
Works great.
Any input appreciated.
:confuse:
I post this HERE with brakes because this switch going bad allows brake fluid to leak all over this switch, your shifter switch on your transmission AND your transmission. As for your brakes, you WILL lose brake fluid, your brake lights WILL come on, and you can totally lose braking power if the leak becomes bad enough. As for the transmission, it will cause your shifter switch to short which can cause serious damage to your transmission. It's not just your cruise control that will no longer work if this switch goes bad. AND, the reason for the recall, fires can result, even when the van is not running. People have lost their homes because their Ford was parked too close to their house or in the garage. Google "Ford Windstar Cruise Control Switch" you'll find full details!
I have had brake issues for a year now and lost the cruise control last winter. I learned about this when I just had to have my transmission rebuilt and am on shifter switch #3 within one weeks' time.
My transmission issue is not 100% cured, but the new cruise control switch stopped the brake lights coming on randomly AND I have cruise control again.
If your cruise control switch has not been disabled or replaced with the new part available this past October 2007, then you need to take it to a Ford Dealership ASAP and have it fixed. They will charge you to do this, but I was told that WHEN Ford issues the recall for our Windstars (and that is very, very likely) we will be reimbursed for this. This is a very cheap part that can cause some very, very seriously expensive problems.
Hope this helps someone figure out their confounded brake issues and spares someone a costly transmission repair, or worse a car/home fire.
Thanks
Matt
Once I replace those sticking front calipers, the problem was solved.
It's probably a good idea to just replace the calipers with each brake job while your at it. Rebuilt calipers are not that expensive, and by changing them with each brake job, it's cheap insurance to not have to replace the brake pads so often.
i have discovered that on many ford windstars the mastercylnder and ABS control go bad at any moment. they start with the funny sounds then just go plop. if the ABS light begins to come on you must get this fixed fast but before then as long as you have strong stopping power your brake system is still running fine
I think the rotors are held on to the hub by some screws that are pan head, standard blade screws. I kow your post is dated, but my uncle just had problems with his front brakes, and his rotors were 'bolted' on to the hub with some pan-head screws/bolts.
Mike
Mike
My brother's 1995 Windstar has had the rear drums replaced, brake hardware replaced, as well as the shoes. I had to cut a hole in the old R/R drum to access the brake adjuster to back of the old shoes to get the drum off. After replacing all the hardware, and checking for correct installation, and safe setting the brake shoes, using a gauge, they still act like they want to back off and not touch the inside of the drum. When you slightly push on the brakes, you get a thumping noise and slight pulsation of the pedal. Pushing hard it goes away. The ABS is malfunctioning, as it makes a noise when stopping and at slow speed, or final stop, so I pulled the fuse. The ABS induced noise went away. But I will check the ABS ring gear on that wheel to see if it is the cause. The brake adjuster acts like it is working in reverse to to back off the shoes, rather than set them against the drum as they wear. Any other ideas?
Is it possible to do at home or do we need a mechanic.
Thanks
:confuse:
Once I replace those sticking front calipers, the problem was solved.
It's probably a good idea to just replace the calipers with each brake job while your at it. Rebuilt calipers are not that expensive, and by changing them with each brake job, it's cheap insurance to not have to replace the brake pads so often.
I just took in my 2001 Windstar and was given a quote of $630 (I'm in Aurora Colorado) to replace the two calipers, two rotors and the front pads. They said my brakes and brake fluid are fine (even though my brake warning light indicators are going on and off intermittently). Does this seem like a reasonable quote to you?
Thanks for the advice on replacing the calipers with each brake job - wish I had done so before.
Thanks!
A: I am handy, have high school auto shop experience, have some tools and shop manuals, so I do my own brake work. I honestly think that $630 is a lot to pay for so simple of a job. It's not the mechanic that gets most the profits, it's the dealership that charges $65/hr. Try to locate a DIY mechanic or a local vocational school with an auto shop instructor to overlook the job. However, If you are not strapped for cash, then by all means have the work done by a professional mechanic that will stand behind his work. Sometimes a mechanic will do the work on the side on a Saturday or a Sunday. Good Luck!
Master Cylinder was replaced, System Bled., they took off ABS and replaced it and God knows what else. Now all parts are off, lines open
Brakes are still locked. They want to smash brake drums.......
When drove into my drive way brake pedal went to floor.
Hand brake cable is ok.
How can I unlock Rear Brakes ????