Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

tblazed

"You can get the stock exhaust system out in one piece, but to do so you need to drop the rear end and take the driver's side coil spring out."

NOW you tell me! You replied in an email when I asked you how you did it, all you removed was
one cross link. The guys I had helping me wanted to take a spring out but I kept insisting it wasn't necessary according to what I had been told. Then after messing with it for an hour, time was becoming an issue, so I said cut it in two. No major biggie, the stock system will probably never get used again, but sure would like to have had valid information.

tblazed

A far as the bolts not there I still have not heard from Borla. Not including all the hardware needed to do the job is their problem or at least oversight. No bolts or nuts shown in the parts list. I re-sent a customer service request to them asking advice, or to send me the preferred bolts, or whatever. They were a lot faster with replies when I was requesting info before I bought. So I got some "super-titanium" bolts and nuts. That'll hold it together!

bingotc

I do want to learn what things i can get for the tblazer. I was thinking of running boards. What do you think? That was one thing we wanted...the head phone for the kids. It didnt' come with this one. Where do you go to find things to put on your vehicle? I had a light come on the other day. It said 4wheel drive service or something like that. I work at a Chevrolet dealership and wouldn't you know when the service manager turned the key, the light didn't light up! No problems though. It's scary reading some of the other people's problems though. Not as scary as reading about the rendezvous which was my other choice.

cparise1

I had the all-black no-logo mud flaps installed at all four wheels. The drilling goes into neoprene and not into the metal. The dealer did an excellent job of aligning the mud flaps--which is critical for a good looking installation--and then had me approve them before they were done. My Envoy XL SLT was ordered and fitted with the running boards from the factory. I really like the look and you don't see many TB's or Envoy's with running boards AND mud flaps behind all four wheels. With all the stuff that gets kicked-up on the road I haven't had one scratch or dent from driving and I commute 75 miles/per day.

I have been very impressed with the professionalism of my dealer and parts department. They are ordering two different grille inserts for me to see which one I like and have even said if I am repulsed after it's installed they'll take it off at no charge. Dealer is Lemay Pontiac-Buick-GMC in Kenosha Wisconsin.

Happy Motoring
Chris

twinrotts

Finally tried the brake controller today and think I have a problem. Not sure if it is the installation or the controller.
The Tekonsha Voyager gives me the green led when connected. Both turns signal circuits are working as well as brake lights. When headlight swith is turned on, all lights on trailer light, but so do the backup lights on the trailer, Trailer backups do light when truck is in reverse, Of most concern is that when I depress the brake, the green led dims, but does not turn red as it should. No matter what I do to the level and gain controls, no difference.I do not have the extra accessory circuit connected at the truck battery, but did not think I would need that.
Anyone have a suggestion?

iexplore2000

I like the factory running boards myself. They look nice and I think that they fit the vehicle very well. Since your TB didn't come with them, you may want to check out the GM Accessories website to find out what GM offers. Here's a link to their website:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/accessories/home.jsp

Additionally, I like to shop at StylinConcepts.com for accessories. They are pretty good in my opinion. Also, good luck on the "Service 4WD" issue. Mine has 3K on it and has done a few "wierd" things, but I am playing it by ear before I let the techs get ahold of my new baby. Who knows, maybe it was just a quick glitch that corrected itself?

IExplore2000

iexplore2000

Hmmm.. I will have to check into that with my dealer to see what I can find. But, you are correct.. I haven't seen any EXT or XL models with mud flaps. Plus, the V-8's are not as abundant around here as well.

I've been asked on several occasions, "Wow.. that's a V-8!"

n7don

When I connected the +12v 30amp at the fuse block it just powered the +12v pin at the connector. On my Coleman that powers the refrig while on the road and charges the onboard battery. I don't recall a separate pin in the 7 pin connector for backup lights. I assume you know the pinout in marked on the connector... at least it is on the Envoy. I'm using the Tekonsha Prodigy but I'm sure the wire connections are the same. I recall the color coding of the Envoy wires under the hush panel were different than the Prodigy but were marked as to where they went.

twinrotts

The TB harness differed in colors as well but wires were marked.
Hot and Nuetral were easy, which left only two others to connect. One was heavy guage which I choose for the brake leaving one that I assume runs all the lights
Should have been simple!!!
My controller is likely 10 yrs old now and although it worked last summer in my previous vehicle, I am wondering if it is the problem.
I just left a message similar to my first post with the good folks at Tekonsha.
I hope they are responsive

n7don

None of your trailer lights should be controlled via the electric brake controller.
Assuming the same setup as the Envoy...
Color coding was:
Heavy dark blue goes to trailer brakes
Black (small)= ground
Small blue was labelled CHMSL (center high mounted stop light) this wire is for the brake light switch
Heavy orange was lablel AUX (as I recall) This is +12v.

I believe you can download a set of installation instruction in pdf form from Tekonsha's site to get the corresponding color code on your controller.

quickdtoo

Maybe this will help...

http://www.hitchmen.com/tekon/tekcat/voyager_install.html

jbum

OK, dumb question because I think I know the answer: I do not need to mess with hooking up the brake controller wire if I am just pulling a U-Haul trailer that needs only light connections -- correct? Assuming this, then all I need is an adapter for the connector at the back of the vehicle to tie into the standard 4-pin (if I remember correctly) connector on a U-Haul.

Thanks for the help.
Jay

quickdtoo

Jay, that would be correct...the brake controller is just for controlling trailers with brakes, the 4-wire flat(sometimes round) connector is for lighting only. You'll need a 7x4 adapter to make the connection. tim

twinrotts

jbum: Only dumb question is the one never asked.
You are correct, all you need is the 7 to 4 pin converter unless of course U-Haul has some type of proprietary wiring system to get you to spend some money. It may depend on the size trailer you are renting.
quickdtoo : Thanks, outstanding link. I do have my manual from the Controller and it matches with what the link shows, and I did hook it up this way.
N7DON: Yeah you are right... I had a brainfart.
In fact the tech at my Chevy dealer explained to me how the wiring for the harness is somewhat redundant in fusing so that a short on the trailer will not take out the truck wiring. There are separate fuses.
I am thinking I have 3 options to pursue.
Perhaps the pigtail I am using that converts the std round 7 pin to a rectangle 7 pin for my Starcraft has a problem. May explain why the trailer reverse light comes on with the headlight switch, or perhaps I have a bad ground on the trailer for the brakes, or perhaps the controller is shot.
Damn: I know I should have chosen Electrical when getting my Engineering degree.
Anyone have a suggestion how to troubleshoot this?

quickdtoo

If twere me, I'd loose the 7-pin Starcraft connector and start over with a std round 7-pin connector. Wiring is always easier if you start with a known configuration, testing as you go. I've done several boat trailers this way, sometimes even replacing the lamp fixtures to eliminate bad hardware. tim

aldan93

Well all is well with the TB, the AC is ice cold, rear gasket fixed. Very happy now!

One thing I would like to comment on is problems with other vehicles, Honda Pilot, Toyota etc... Take a look at their discussion boards, they have the same problems as us, and an often comment is that their quality is not what it use to be!! Toyota especially, seems they have problems with hard shifting trannies, comments are head snapping!!! Its been pretty quite here as far as major problems, little things yes, but it seems the foreign makes have their share of problems to. So take it for what its worth!!!

 Did you people know that if you buy an import, Toyota, Kia, Honda etc... It does nothing for this countries GDP gross domestic product. That is correct!!! So when you buy a foreign vehicle Edmunds should define and recognize that it does nothing for GDP!!!! That is a measure of the overall economy! So even though Toyota and Nissan have people working in the USA the Sale of the vehicle does nothing for GDP, ask any CPA, or go do your own investigating. So Steve the Host, this should be Edmunds understanding, foreighn brands go to foreighn economies!! No good for outlook of GDP!!!

gam2

What's worse, a Toyota made on the USA, or a PT Cruiser made in Mexico? Personally, any job in the USA is a good thing right now. I don't have stock in any auto maker so their profits don't matter to me. Face it, it's a global economy. Enough said, the host won't tolerate this subject for long...........

GAM

ficuss

aldan93, GDP is defined as the output of goods and services produced by labor and property in the U.S. I would presume this does include all of the U.S. dealerships, sales people, truck drivers who deliver, gas stations which provide gas, body shops who repair etc, foreign cars. Wrapping yourself in a patriotic flag and saying that foreign cars do nothing for our GDP is in my opinion short sighted. By the way, the one person who usually refers to us as "you people" is Rush Limbaugh. I personally don't like it when I am being referred to as "you people".
 I recently turned in a Mitsubishi Diamante after a 4 year lease. The car was in the service dept. one time for a horn. I wish I could say that about my 2002 TB. I believe other countries have qualified workers too.

Frank

tidester

aldan,

We're here to discuss the vehicles and we leave the political discussions to other venues.

tidester, host

mookie14

i agree with what the brother said about toyota and honda. my comment is this when consumer reports rides the jock of them both yr in and yr out. you know they are getting soft $$$$ to say that. believe that thats why i bought a tblazer 03 so thats it.

bradrx7

Turned 20,000 miles on my '02 Turdblazer LTS this afternoon. I was sitting at the gate to my shop with my girlfriend and... this awful electrical smell started emanating from the AC vents (it was only 95F outside). The AC compressor sounded like a bag of rocks. What did I do? Turned off the AC and drove the GF home (20 miles) hoping all the while the damn truck would catch on fire and burn to the ground.

This is BS from a vehicle that is meticulously maintained at such a low mileage.

medolark

I just returned from my second trip from San Jose California to Montana with the Envoy (2002). Drove 5600 miles in about 7 weeks up and down mountain passes and just about every conceivable condition. Truck performed great the whole time and got 20.6 mpg overall at consistent speeds around 75.

Because I have the small (18.7 gal) gas tank I used to stop more frequently than I really wanted to. This time I decided to put my faith in the DIC. I was not disappointed. The first time I really tested it was on a 350 mile route across Montana. Before starting this leg of the trip, with a full tank the DIC said my range was about 375mi. All the way across the state it consistently showed 25 to 35 miles more range than I had to go to reach my destination. As I pulled into the station at the end of the 350 miles the DIC still said about 25 miles range remaining. Just as I stopped, the low fuel light came on. It took 16.5 gallons to fill. Now, I rely on the range reading rather than fillup with 5 or 6 gallons to spare. I guess I don't need that 22 gal tank after all.

ficuss

your tank is nearly empty is that the gas in the tank is used to cool the fuel pump. The fuel pump will cost much more to replace than an extra trip to the gas station.

Frank

envoylover

I have a 2002 Envoy SLT, 10K miles. When I am cruising and SLIGHTLY apply the accelerator pedal I hear a "shhh / whirl" noise comming from under the hood. I originally thought it was the AC condesor, but eliminated it as the culprit. It only happens when you "feather" the accelerator pedal, if you give alot of gas the noise does not happen, it is only while cruising. If I put the car in drive with the brake on and give it gas to try to duplicate the noise it will not do it in the driveway. This noise is driving me nuts. Has anyone else experienced it or better yet found the cause??

ross1962_99

This sounds like the "noisy tachometer" issue being discussed here. It is benign (although slightly irritating)and very common. There is no fix yet as far as anyone on the board knows. My TB does this as well.

v8ext

envoylover-i do not think you have the noisy tachometer. i have the same EXACT noise you are describing, and the dealer ruled out the tach in my case (although he couldn't find out any reason for the noise). if you go to the dealer, let me know what your dealer finds.

ross1962_99

There is one thing all the dealerships will agree on. "They all do that".

envoylover

Interesting you have the V8 and I have the I6 and we both have the same noise. I also read about another member who had the same noise with a V8 when I did a noise search. I originally suspected the alarm siren horn (Dealer installed) resonating, but I do not beleive it is it, I will remove to make sure. I thought it may be a heat shield but since you have the V8 we have different heat sheilds. Dealer was useless!! His comment was it does not affect performance etc. I am 90% sure it is something resonating or hitting a natural frequency. I may win the Darwin award this year when I ride down the street with my hood off and me sitting in the engine compartment while my wife is driving!!! Just joking, do you have an alarm?

previousamigo

Has anyone had the plastic diagonal panel support under the driver's side door 4 winows controls squeak? This is located on the front side and under the arm rest on the driver' side door. There is a rubber support that goes into the back of this plastic piece. The rubber part is where you grab to close the door once you get in. My left knee rests against this plastic piece since my leg is too short to use the dead pedal. Would some filler or tape behind this plastic piece fix this like the whistling mirror issue?

v8ext

No, I do not have an alarm. My dealer basically told me the same thing yours told you. I tried explaining, for a new vehicle of this price having a noise this annoying isn't acceptable. (that didn't seem to matter) let me know what you find out.

tblazed

Please check back in and report what the fix turns out to be. Almost sounds like the compressor or maybe the a/c clutch failed if you smelled something burning just before it quit cooling.

bradrx7

tblazed... I definitely will after I pick the thing up today. Yesterday I was told by Davis Chevrolet (Houston) that the compressor went. Again, I will find out more from the service manager upon pickup.

BTW, the service manager checked and said the new 22 gallon tank WOULD work. Bad thing is the tank retails for $700+!!! More details when I know them.

-- brad barber
peace.love.track.

agenteleven

Yes! The door panels on my TB LTZ squeak like crazy if someone rests their knees against them.

I just try not to rest my knees there, but it almost drives me nuts when a passenger puts their knees there.

I haven't investigated what it would take to stop the squeak.

bradrx7

Got the '02 LTZ back and here is the autopsy:
Replace D4440 Compressor Assembly
Replace 3033879 Orifice
Replace 2724578 Seal Washer
---------
They aslo tried again to fix my damn mirror's Alzheimer's disease. I'm on my second set of mirror actuators. Grrrr....

--
brad barber
peace.love.track.

aldan93

To the fella who is going to arbitration, I almost went that route, But they replaced the drive shafts!!!!! No Vibration!!, they had my TB for 13 days!!!! The drive shafts were in spec. but slightly out of round. So I had to argue with the dealer to get them replaced. Smooth as silk!!!

icojones

I've been off the board for a while, so excuse me if this has been beaten to death. It boggles my mind that more than two years after these cars hit the road that Chevy still can't fix my wandering mirrors (after reprogramming and actuator replacement). After getting nowhere with Chevy, the suggested I file a complaint with the BBB. I did this today. Is there any chance I get any satisfaction whatsoever?

Thanks.

twinrotts

I took the lazy mans approach to my Brake Controller issue and had my local RV dealer attach a meter to my 7 pin connector. All checked out good so I was able to avoid buying another controller and my pride was intact as I was able to crow that my installation was not at fault. At the same time I needed to buy another wire set because the one I had was too short for my current setup. The set I purchased for $44 came with the trailer end molded in place and about 8 foot of wire that required me to attach the truck end. I took my original wire set and detatched the plug and discovered that this was originally incorrectly wired. The ground and the wire that controlls the B/U light were switched.
I wired the new set as specified, hooked up the trailer and viola, brakes now work.
BTW: I e-mailed Teknosha with my problem on Sunday night and still no reply. Inexcusable!!!!

gam2

The BBB is totally useless. They will do NOTHING.
Try the NHTSA board. They will investigate.

GAM

danjmyers

In the discussion you started about this issue you stated in #18 that GM knows about the problem and they have no fix. Where did you find this out from?

kmigliaccio855

I have the TB Ext and have all 4 molded flaps and love them... be careful however the rears are the same as the short version but the fronts are different. The parts counter may not know this and get the wrong ones like mine did the first time. Also the only drilling is into the plastic well, nothing to worry about.

tblazed

Noticed you said you are in Houston. So how does it cool now, in all the heat and humidity? Are you running it in recirculate mode? Otherwise you must be pouring gallons of condensated cold water on the ground. Up here in D-FW my TB a/c seems to struggle cooling down initially after I start it up on a hot afternoon (protecting itself from high pressure by cycling the compressor until it gets within a certain range, just when you need cooling the most) but once it finally gets going, it works well.

bradrx7

tblazed... Yes, you know about our humidity here in Texas. I DO drop a lot of condensed H2O under the vehicle. Matter of fact, when I first got the TB the water ran onto the exhaust and frame until I rerouted the hose (very bad design by GM... "Hey, Ernie, let's just let that condensed water run onto the exhaust and frame. They'll sell the truck before it rusts anything.)

Anyway, the new AC acts like the old one. It cools weakly at first even with the windows half open for a while. After it cools some, it works fine. I've been VERY disappointed in the climate system's inability to keep up with Houston's tropical heat. I have my best results by leaving it on 'AUTO'. In this day and time, an AC system shouldn't need babysitting to operate quickly or to 'protect' the compressor. This seems to be a case of 'lowest cost supplier'.

kgbkahnk

"...when I first got the TB the water ran onto the exhaust and frame until I rerouted the hose..."

Could you please tell me more about this? How and to where did you re-route the hose? Where exactly should I look to find the hose in the first place?

Thanks....

bradrx7

kgbkahnk,

It has been over a year since I did this, so this is from an admittedly foggy memory. <g>

Jack up the truck on the passenger side, put a couple of jack stands under the frame for safety. Crawl under the truck (having the hood open helps) and look for the hose coming down from the [passenger side of the firewall. It should be just hanging loose. You can probably follow the water stains if you've had your TB for very long. :-)

Anyway, I used a plastic hose connector and another piece of heater hose I had from my race car shop to lengthen the drain hose about 6" so it didn't drain onto the exhaust and frame. I just used a couple of tie wraps to secure the connection. It is pretty obvious what to do if you look under there and all the parts you need are available at any Pep Boys/Auto Zone.

Hope that helps,
brad barber
peace.love.track.

aldan93

From my mechanic, he stated that almost all TB's have it, he stated that while fixing other issues and then test driving people are or were unaware of the issue, or didn't notice it yet. He then stated that changing the rear springs, corrects the problem, for 65%. The other well! it was the drive shaft. Remember that temps outside at the time were 0-30F. I'll bet it the drive shafts in your case, switch dealership service, thats my advice. Tell them you insist on it, drop the car off, get a loaner, and wait a month!!! LOL

aldan93

Another quality product from our boys at Delphi, go UAW!!!!

snaab

hey all. i am considering getting a new Envoy SLE from my dad (he has one for 3 months as part of the GM company car program). I was wondering if anyone knew the reason behind why 2WD models get better fuel econ than 4WD. Also, i live in the detroit area and was wondering if 4wd is worth the extra $$$. Anyone in the area getting by Michigan winters with 2wd? thanks fot the help

elevatorguy

kmigliaccio855,
Is there any way to through-bolt the flaps to the sheetmetal instead of using sheetmetal screws (I am assuming this is what they give you)? I want the flaps but I am not too keen on using sheetmetal screws on my new TB. At the very least I would at least look into getting stainless steel sheetmetal screws to help with corrosion. If anyone else has the molded mod guards and cares to comment, please do. I am looking for any and all opinions.

Thanks,
Elevatorguy

gam2

4WD vehicle have a transfer case and another differential in the front. The extra mass and drag/friction from the gears/bearing accounts for the poorer fuel mileage. Is 4WD needed? If you live in the city where they keep the streets plowed, probably not. But it sure is handy when there is a foot of snow on the ground. Will you ever take it off-road?

The molded mud flaps uses existing screws and holes for 2 of the 3 attachments. The other hole is drilled into the plastic from below. You probably would not notice the hole if the flaps were off.

GAM

kmigliaccio855

the flaps attach with the flat clips that the screws mount through and use existing holes so as someone else pointed out the only new hole goes into the plastic molding on the under body. you don't need to worry about damage or metal issues the worse case scenario is that the paint under the fender where the clips slide on will scratch but without flaps it would be the body side not the well.