Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

olafo

Hey.. I am planning to buy an overhead console for my new Trailblazer LS. I would like to know if any of you have done it? DO i need to buy a mounting bracket? What about the wiring? are the wires there? Thanks.... Any help is appreciated...

tblazed

Don't see why not. From the manual looks like you'd just need to adjust the center reference points of the ride height sensors to the desired lower body position.

Another thought for envoyenvy2, did it always list over to one side like you describe? Maybe you have a failed or misaligned ride height sensor on one side, the sensor is sending a level signal but the vehicle is not level?

envoyenvy2

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the responses, especially the info from the service manual, tblazed.

Yeah, I believe it has always listed as it does now. I believe your theory about the 1/2" spec variance on each side is probably accurate. I have seen other references to the same problem on the web since I have begun researching. Funny thing is, they all seem to list lower on the right. I have seen others on the road, and thought it might be an optical illusion due to the low hanging resonator on that side. Since the warranty expiration is looming, I actually measured and found the problem.

I have seen messages referring to a "bolt" or "slot" that is used to adjust, but have checked and not located anything that looks like an adjustment.

ficuss

The point is confidence in a vehicle. Once it is lost, it is hard to get it back.

shooterdave7

You feel the need to keep making the point, over and over and over and over, ad nauseum. I think we get the idea. Enjoy your other vehicle(s).

ylab

Been considering trading my '02 Envoy for another vehicle....my Envoy hasn't exactly been a model of engineering or quality.

I've had the infuriating mirrors (finally fixed after 5-6 attempts! - Knock on wood, wait its plastic wood), 4WD Switch, Various PCM flashes to fix stumble & tranny shifting, license gasket twice and of course the big one when the Engine was replaced a few months ago to fix the LOUD tapping it had developed at just under 12,000. (Actually the tapping starting around 3,500-4,000 miles - Supposedly a liner starting to drop or that's how the worked the warranty claim anyway). Guess some of the frustration has been half the time they try to do something like flash a module it blows out and something is DOA until they can get a replacement.

Interested to hear what others might do in my place. I have a 6 year 50,000 mile extended warranty, so should I take my chances and hope the worse is over or should I dump it at this point? The vehicle in contention is possibly a Murano....yup, its Japanese and hopefully might be more reliable and fun. (I've taken a test drive and was quite impressed, but not totally sold).

Thanks,
Ray

tblazed

Probably what you are referring to are the two holes in the height sensors you put a pin through to hold the sensor in alignment while adjusting it to the specified position of the suspension. They show two holes that line up when the arm is in the center position.

BTW was looking at the manual again, the maximum difference between sides measured from the axle to the jounce bumpers should not exceed 8mm. Email me for additional details if you want.

Have you measured the difference of the height L&R sides at the rear wheel well openings?

FYI It also states the system should keep the vehicle rear bumper height within 4mm fully loaded or empty.

envoyenvy2

Yeah, the height at the center of the wheel well opening is 33" on the driver's side and 34" on the passenger side. When the truck is started and the suspension kicks in, it is still higher by ~ an inch on the passenger side.

envoyenvy2

Correction, meant 34" on the driver's side and 33" on the passenger.

elevatorguy

Are there any grease fittings at all on these trucks? Steering linkage, driveshaft u-joints, etc.? Are there any greaseable points also? By his, I mean points which may not have fittings, but need a smear of grease besides the hinges?

Thanks

brunopuntz

I've come upon some medical expenses and need to free up a bit in the way of cash flow. The $160 a month gas bills aren't helping.

What's a realistic figure that I could get for a:

2003 Trailblazer LTZ
15,000 miles
Everything but the traction control and rain sensitive wipers.

In TX. Excellent condition, just 1 year old.

Cost was 25k new (Sticker was 36.5k, gm employee and gm card discount with a few others made it almost 1/3 off...). 27.4k after tax. Put 7.4k down. So 20k note at 6% for 5 years. Payments are 387 a month.

I owe 16k on it. Just wondering what I could realistically sell it for. How much of that original 7.4k I'd be out. Would put that down on a 10-12k vehicle that gets better gas milage. Finance that over 5 years and get cheap monthlies so I can get some of this freakin' medical stuff paid off.

May not be worth it, and will just have to stick with it

stever

We have an appraisal tool you can use. A private party sale will get you the most money if you can handle that stress in addition to the medical bills.

Good luck!

Steve, Host

jeffwitt

I own a 2004 LT EXT with only 1,600 miles.

I have already had to have the DVD unit replaced (IR sensor didnot work - wireless headphones do not work).

I also hear a vibration noise at approx 2500 RPMs when accelerating from a complete stop - had to dealer and they said they did not hear anything but most likely normal - I think tht the plastic molding in the driver front tire well is loose and vibrating - dealer said it wasn't loose.

The real liftgate black moldings are misaligned (there is more space between molding and car on drivers side than passanger side)and was told that this is normal assembly line differences and if I wanted to have GM Engineering look at it I could.

Now I can not get the TRAF display on the radio to go off and pressing the TRAF button does nothing.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!!

tblazed

Since you are in Texas (don't know how other states work) if you trade for a different vehicle, the trade-in value is subtracted from the sale price, and you pay the sales tax on the difference. If you trade your LTZ for a vehicle priced at or less than that trade-in value you can save the 6 1/2%. If you sell to an individual you are out the sales tax on the entire price. You might come out ahead, or there might not be enough difference to you, to make selling to an individual worthwhile. Something to consider.

ron_m

ylab(Ray C),

If I were in your position, I would first attempt to sell the vehicle rather than trade it in. You really would be better off to rid yourself of a vehicle that has been this problematic. Try to negotiate the purchase of another vehicle without a trade being discussed. There have been repeated articles in Money magazine where they recommended this as the best practice for car buyers. It sounds as though to me that your particular Envoy is highly likely to give you some serious problems as it ages even further.

Check out the last three or four J.D. Power and Associates quality rankings and see where the vehicle manufacturer that you are seriously considering buying from is positioned in the lists. In other words, what is their average quality ranking over the last three or four years.
As a general rule, it appears as though Asian makes Lexus and Infiniti are a couple of the better ones overall. Honda is having their share of transmission woes in recent years with certain models--and the CRV fire issues too. But they somehow still managed to rank in the top six back in June. The American automobile manufacturers are improving their quality, and the German manufacturers are dropping in the survey rankings. Especially the Mercedes-Benz line of Daimler-Chrysler Corporation. GM's Buick and Cadillac divisions got excellent quality survey ratings in the most recent J.D. Power and Associates poll, and so did Lincoln from Ford Motor Co.

By the way, if you're not having to tow a boat, camper, motorcycle trailer, etc., the Murano would indeed be a decent crossover type vehicle. People either love the looks of the exterior or they hate it. Not much gray area there. Personally, I'm one of the ones that loves it.

Best of luck to you either way you go with your vehicle. I hope you get a vehicle that is virtually trouble-free next time. Sounds as though you deserve a break from vehicle problems.
Oh, by the way. Before you consider a Chevy Equinox, you may want to check the boards out for it. I found this vehicle to be very desirable until I started reading up on it from owners. Now I'd be afraid to put my wife in a new one.

Ron M.

mookie14

Does anyone know how or what to do. I put a k&n fipk kit on and the ckc engine light came on and it took it to auto zone and a iat sensor is throwing a code what do i do help thanks.

ylab

Thanks Ron, your thoughts are echoing mine in whether my experience has been an omen of yet additional things to come.

I've also went back for a 2nd gander at the Murano and equipped as I would like with the Touring Package (Heated Leather with memory, memory mirrors and all the goodies), I hit my head on bumps! - Blasted sunroof is automatically included in the package. Might need to give the General another chance, since the Ford doesn't do it for me....although that FX35 I drove this morning was really HOT! (Unfortunately, they're not giving a whole lot off of the sticker, nor in trade....so the Envoy might just go FSBO - For Sale By Owner).

Thanks Again,
Ray

dshepherd3

Make sure no oil from the filter has blown back on the iat sensor, if so clean it with electical contact cleaner. Then take out the fipk kit, it may happen again. Or the sensor was disconnected during the installation process, and the code will clear itself, once reconnected.

scottc454

I've had my K&N kit for 30,000+ miles with no ill effects. Since you just installed it, you probably had a pre-oiled filter so over-oiling wouldn't likely be the problem.

I'm not sure oil will affect the iat sensor anyway. It's just a temperature sensor. (MAP sensors don't like oil). You sure you didn't disconnect or damage it?

pepper50

Has anyone taken their Envoy in under the recall for the windshield wiper motor? I got my letter, but haven't done it yet. I wanted them to do a few first If you've had it done, can you please tell me what they did to correct the situation, so I can look and verify that they actually did something? My letter says they will "inspect" the motors and do something "if necessary" which implies to me that to some people they will say nothing needs to be done. If they can't see any corrosion, do they refuse to do anything? That hasn't fixed anything to keep it from failing in 6 months. Or do they create some kind of drain holes? Thanks for info.

envoyenvy2

Took my Envoy in for the recall. According to the invoice they installed a sealer kit (invoice listed it as a $16 part, so must be more than just a little sealant applied?).

Have not actually looked at the motor to see what the kit looks like, but have no reason to believe they would not install it. Safety recalls are taken pretty seriously, can't believe dealer would risk problems with GM over a $16 kit. My 2 cents.

elevatorguy

brunopuntz,
Wow, you got a great deal on your TB. How much money did you have in GM credit card points? Can you break down the numbers for us please? I thought I did pretty well when I bought an 03 LT which stickered for $32,300 (I think) for $25k. I didn't have any GM points or employee discounts though. Did you buy a leftover?

Thanks

tblazed

That should not have happened ...something must have damaged or corroded the threads or ?? all mine went equally once they were loose. Held the center with a hex wrench and used a box-end wrench to loosen the nuts, no problem.

"Seems that every time I try to remove fasteners on this truck I can break them loose ok but they just never seem to get easy to spin until they are just about out.
Are they designed this way to prevent becoming loose," Yes the nuts are made that way.

Why not go buy two new Moog rear bar link kits, for about $20 ea? They detach from the frame similar to the bar attachments. Then you would have all-new links, and grease fittings too!

brunopuntz

MSRP: $36,495
Invoice: $32,975
Edmund's TMV: $33,409
Price I paid:

GMS price: $31,925
GMS rebate: $3,750
On Star rebate: $695
GM Card: $2,173

Total before tax: $25,307

I tried to get the Texas Truck rebate which was another $500, but the guy seemed a bit irritated, so I let it go

Vehicle was new, like 10 miles on it or whatever. Got it at the first of July 03. 04s weren't on the lots yet.

amom3

Well, I had had it with all my A/C problems and/or outside sensor troubles, power seat and mirror problems and followed all the steps with GM and arbitration. After many service trips GM wanted me to take my Envoy to a 3rd dealership to fix it. I did. Though it seems better we are not happy with the abilities of the A/C. We then had our arbitration hearing. The arbitrator agreed with GM that the outside air temp sensor is not related to the A/C and is just a convenience (luxury). He felt the A/C worked and even if it wasn't to our liking he didn't feel it was a safety issue and therefore not a lemon so denied a buyback. My car is barely a year old. I have another 6 months under the lemon law. I think we will be looking into a lawyer. Anyone have any suggestions or should I give up?

stever

A consumer lawyer should be able to give you an opinion for cheap or free. Your problems may not be a safety issue, but it may be a warranty issue. There's other ways to pursue a buy-back besides lemon law (i.e., warranty laws).

Steve, Host

fdgk72

I just purchased a 2004 TB and really like it. I have noticed however at low speed (in parking lots) that there is a click in the steering wheel when turned from left to right. I don't if it's the power steering pump or what.

Has anybody else experienced this?

ross1962

Best deal I've heard of yet!

ross1962

I've heard of some steering column issues on these. It's not normal. I would take it in.

tblazed

"The dealer says this is impossible and did not fix it the first time we have had it in."

Of course it's possible. There is an electrically activated interlock mechanism in the steering column that operates when the shifter is placed in Park, allowing you to turn the key completely to remove it. Likely something wrong - a loose conection, who knows? Could be a problem in the steering column, the shift lever switch that's in the shifter mechanism under the console, or a loose connector in between. But yes it certainly is possible. You might want to try a different dealer.

envoyenvy2

Was finally able to level up the rear on my Envoy with air suspension, and wanted to share what I did.

There are two mounting bolts on each height sensor. The height sensors are mounted to the frame rail behind the wheel wells, just over the wheel. I was able to access the bolts without removing the wheels, but it is pretty difficult to get to on the passenger side due to the resonator and exhaust system. If you loosen these bolts enough, the height sensor can be rotated, or moved up and down, as Tblazed mentioned. There seems to be enough play there, I assume it is by design for some kind of adjustment, even though the dealer says it is a non-serviceable system.

I didn't find any holes to line up, but I didn't have equipment to enable me to raise the truck or level it out anyway, so maybe I just didn't see them. Basically it was just trial and error for me. I have seen several Envoys that appear to be a bit lower on the right side as mine was. I moved the sensor on the passenger side up as far as possible, and lowered the one on the drivers side as far as I could. This ended up leveling the backend almost perfectly, and I am pretty picky (just ask my dealer).

tblazed

Congratulations! Sometimes you just have to take matters into your own hands!

Makes me wonder if one of those sensors changed internally over time and caused it to become unlevel. Did it always sit unlevel from day 1?

envoyenvy2

Yeah, I think it always sat a bit lower on the right. Probably wouldn't even bother a lot of folks, but I'm kinda picky about my truck. Read somewhere that these trucks are designed to allow for a 5 degree lean in corners, then it stiffens up. I figure if it starts out an inch lower on one side, that 5 degrees has to be more noticeable, so hopefully handling / feel in corners will be a bit better??

If nothing else, it won't bug me anymore. Thanks for the info from the service manual, it helped out. Where did you get the manual? I will probably do as much maintenance and minor repair as I can after the warranty expires, and am interested in a manual.

Question for anyone. I still have the noisy / rattling tachometer issue, and my console is a bit loose, it moves around a bit when shifting. I am wondering if anyone can share their experiences with these issues and whether it is worth getting fixed. The only fix for the noisy tach that I have seen is instrument cluster replacement, a little nervous that might cause more problems than the original noise. It is not that noticeable, but who knows if it will cause a failure down the road.

bckwht66

I have a 2002 TB and have a clunking sound in the front right wheel when i turn my steering wheel to the right, I had taken it to be checked and they said they said they couldn't find anything, 3 weeks later i was in an accident, i was going around a turn and while turning to the right i couldn't get my steering wheel to straighten back out.

Anyone have any info on this..?

01_hoe

Thanks for sharing the info on leveling the air suspension.

Regarding tach noise, should not be a problem changing out the instrument cluster for a new one. (Notice I said should...)I took mine out and replaced with a white face overlay, and no problems with a do it myself job.

Manuals can be gotten from helminc.com

bckwht66

I have a 2002 TB and when i turn my wheel to the right it makes a continuous clunking noise, I took it in to dealer it's under warranty and they said they couldn't find anything, approx 3 wks later I was in an accident, I was going around a turn to the right and when it was time to straighten my wheel out i couldn't, and ran off the road..

Have taken it back into the dealer but they say they still can't find anything

There is something major wrong i just don't know what it is

Any info on this please help..

envoyenvy2

Wow. Think I would go to the service manager and explain to him what happened and that his technicians could not find a problem. I'm not a mechanic but sounds like a tie rod problem or something along that line. There was a recall for a suspension arm link early on as well, I would make sure that was not involved.

My experience with technicians is that unless the problem jumps out at them, they don't waste a lot of time trying to duplicate, especially if you are still under warranty.

ross1962

Yeah, I think it always sat a bit lower on the right<i/>

Maybe it's because it was designed and built in a part of the country where they figure most people would level it out by getting into the driver's seat. :-)

bobfish

Has anybody else had a problem getting Eibach springs? I have tried to order them from three different places and they tell me they are on back order.I have been trying since the first of July to get them.

envoyenvy2

Question for anyone / everyone. Does the slight rattling / grinding noise from the tachometer go away even if the instrument cluster is replaced? If it does, does it remain quiet months later?

It is not noticeable (at least on mine) unless the ac and the radio are turned off, and is minor then. I just do not want an instrument cluster failure after the warranty expires.

BTW, there seems to be a recall brewing regarding the air suspensions. Seems, as some folks here have suspected, that a spike in the voltage caused by the air compressor kicking in can cause potential issues with the PCM leading to stalling. Not good if you are on the highway. Sounds like the recall involves a wiring harness replacement.

Wonder if GM monitors these boards. I have learned enough from this board that the service advisor thought I worked at GM

Don't want to sound like I am whining about these trucks, just trying to clear up minor warranty issues. I still love my Envoy after almost 3 years!

previousamigo

I had the tach noise and thought the dealer would replace the entire instrument panel. They fixed and said it was just one small part. I haven't heard the noise since the fix 6 months ago.

I do still have to apply grease to the hood bumpers and latch to stop that squeak every 6 months.

I still like the truck even with all the trips to the dealer. I haven't had any trips to the dealer after 1000 miles past the warranty.

traut

First off, let me preface that my knowledge of how cars work is embarassingly poor.

My dealer recommends something called "throttle body service" every 15,000 miles. Is this something that you would recommend doing? If yes, should it be done every 15K, or could it be done every 30, 45, etc?

My second question is about wheel balancing. Again, dealer recommends every 15K. I always thought balancing was not necessary unless you could feel a problem, or when you purchase new tires, but I definately could be wrong. What are your thoughts on when wheels should be balanced?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Traut

ficuss

Why would you state your opinion on this board if you thought GM wasn't listening? Let's say GM is listening, would you want them to think they have a perfect set of triplets, or would you want them to realize that yes, the triplets have some warts and defects.

envoyenvy2

Just don't want anyone to get the impression that I am not happy with my truck, even though I have asked about a couple of issues I am trying to clear up.

I am still very happy with it. Sometimes those of us that are happy have to mention it to offset the whining of others. Let me know if you find the "perfect" car.

I can provide a link to G35 issues and problems if you need it.

tblazed

" 'throttle body service' every 15,000 miles"

Have them show you in the Owner's Manual where it says that. Not listed in the Owner's Manual as routine recommended maintenance. Should not be necessary. Throttle body is well ahead of the fuel injection that happens directly at each cylinder. Just filtered air passing through the throttle at that point. But very good for the dealer's bottom line. IMO Don't do it.

"wheel balancing every 15K"

Likewise, a money maker for the dealer. If the wheels are balanced and you don't feel any vibration I wouldn't do it. Totally unnecessary if there isn't a problem.
I wouldn't want them taking the wheels off every 15K when not necessary. Never know when a wheel nut might get cross-threaded going back on with an air impact wrench, left loose, or left off completely in their haste to get you out the door.

traut

Ed,

Thanks for the reply... I thought that the two sounded like pocket padders for the dealership, so I just wanted to make sure.

Thanks again,
Rob

tblazed

I think that came about when a lot of vehicles especially in the '80s had throttle body injection, basically a carburetor body minus the internal fuel delivery parts, with two fuel injectors mounted above the throttle plates. Those plates and the venturi area of the throttle body would get gummed up sometimes with gasoline deposits, make the throttle feel sticky off idle, have a rough idle, etc.

stever

That happens on my '99 Quest, but it doesn't occur on any set schedule. I only clean it when I notice a sticky pedal.

Steve, Host

guy21

On most new cars, the oil laden fumes from the PCV valve now come in after the air filter but ahead of the throttle body. This junk builds up over time and eventually the pedal sticks. On vehicles I have had, it can start at 30K, my Regal went 65K before cleaning. Fairly easy to do oneself with carb cleaner on a rag.

In the old days there used to be a small PCV air filter, not anymore.

tblazed

Filtered ventilation air does enter the engine through a tube that goes to the air intake resonator that sits on top of the engine, and down to the valve cover, but the PCV is definitely on the vacuum side from the intake manifold to the crankcase. There is a tube that connects this path. Ther is no serviceable PCV valve on these 4.2s.

But yes it is easy to pull off the resonator where it connects to the throttle body and clean the throttle plate yourself.